Excellent video Robert! On my '89 240, now 29 years old, a few thoughts. No phillips or door screw on a 240, just the two 8 mm. I could NOT turn the toothed wheel, even after spraying with silicone. Took off the mirror (another video), turned it upside down, played around, got frustrated and cut the hole about 5/8" X 3/8". Was then able to get a larger screwdriver in, turning back and forth, back and forth, a little more at at time till it came loose finally. Off it came off! On the 240 it's harder to get that final trim panel back on!
Tip for those having a hard time putting on the cover. Put the adjustment lever on the mirror down and then slide the bottom of the cover between the door and doorcard and then push the cover straight in. Should make the process a lot easier.
Thanks Robert, As Dennis noted on the 240 (mine is a '90), there is no screw and you need to pop out the door panel a bit to take the housing off, as there is plastic tongue that is about 1/2" below the panel that will snap if you (oops!) force it (luckily I had a replacement.) Love your videos, keep up the good work.
Robert, your advice is stellar, as usual. This comment is slightly off the subject but I was seeking advice for how to remove the side view mirror in my '93 240 (power mirrors) and want to add that, finding no other advice on how to accomplish this (until later, that is) I attempted to remove my mirror as you describe in this video - which I know is for manual mirrors. Still, my mirror exterior is identical to the one in your video - including the hole in the bottom of the mirror which I later concluded served as a drain only on my mirrors. My mirrors have NO toothed wheel above the hole. I finally found online that the mirror is attach by 8 plastic clips integrated into the black mirror backplate. They are in pairs at 10, 2 ,4 and 8 and between each pair is a conical locator pin also integrated into the backplate. To begin mirror removal, push the mirror in as far as possible so that you can see behind the mirror. (I used a shim between the mirror and keep the mirror slightly sprung out to improve my access to the backplate. Be gentle.) The clips and pin will be readily visible. The clips are tedious to remove but since there are 8 clips I decided that I could sacrifice one to get things started in hopes that getting one pair loose would ease things a bit so that the other clips would be more cooperative if I created some play in the mirror. I was right. I used a "side cutter diagonal wire cutting nipper" to nip off the nearest clip. After that I carefully rocked and as gently as possible (so as not to damage the motor components) pulled on mirror until all clips popped loose. This took some patience. Hold on to the mirror securely and remember that the mirror heating wires are connected with simple flat pin terminals that you'll need to disconnect. In my car there was plenty of wire length so this was easy, however they were on tight so use care in removing. To replace into its housing simply push the mirror back in place until you all clips "click" and the mirror is secure. (Don't forget to re-attach the heater wires first!) This whole process is a big pain but doable. In my case I was intending to remove the faded mirror housings so that I could paint them body color on the bench. After removing one mirror and finding that there were no easily removable connectors (or maybe no connectors) inside the mirror housing that would allow me to remove the housing, I simply decided to pain the mirror housing while still attached to the car. With some careful masking I accomplished the painting quite easily and with good results. Good luck!
Easy enough to remove, i like the simple direct linkage, no power, no switches to fail :-) A game of hunt the bolt :), most things seem to have that annoying feature, no wonder the average handyman has a few pointless screws left over after a repair. Ive repaired laptops and had that problem, all holes filled and one screw left over, oh well i gained a screw ha ha :-D
![[Part 1] ทารกน้อยถูกทิ้ง👶 หญิงชราเก็บขวดขายเลี้ยงดูเขาจนโต #โลกการละคร](http://i.ytimg.com/vi/nPTDvFCExks/mqdefault.jpg)
Your video helped me remove my mirrors without breaking/damaging anything! Thanks, Robert! 🙂
You are welcome!
Excellent video Robert! On my '89 240, now 29 years old, a few thoughts. No phillips or door screw on a 240, just the two 8 mm. I could NOT turn the toothed wheel, even after spraying with silicone. Took off the mirror (another video), turned it upside down, played around, got frustrated and cut the hole about 5/8" X 3/8". Was then able to get a larger screwdriver in, turning back and forth, back and forth, a little more at at time till it came loose finally. Off it came off! On the 240 it's harder to get that final trim panel back on!
Have seen all your video clips on your Volvo 740. Looking forward to more like this clip of these models. Thumbs up. Greetings from Sweden
***** Very cool. Thanks for your message.
Tip for those having a hard time putting on the cover. Put the adjustment lever on the mirror down and then slide the bottom of the cover between the door and doorcard and then push the cover straight in. Should make the process a lot easier.
Thanks for sharing
Thanks Robert from Germany, you help me a lot ! Volvo 240 Driver
Glad to help
Thanks Robert, As Dennis noted on the 240 (mine is a '90), there is no screw and you need to pop out the door panel a bit to take the housing off, as there is plastic tongue that is about 1/2" below the panel that will snap if you (oops!) force it (luckily I had a replacement.) Love your videos, keep up the good work.
Thank you for taking the time show that… it is really appreciated!!
You are welcome
Robert, your advice is stellar, as usual. This comment is slightly off the subject but I was seeking advice for how to remove the side view mirror in my '93 240 (power mirrors) and want to add that, finding no other advice on how to accomplish this (until later, that is) I attempted to remove my mirror as you describe in this video - which I know is for manual mirrors. Still, my mirror exterior is identical to the one in your video - including the hole in the bottom of the mirror which I later concluded served as a drain only on my mirrors. My mirrors have NO toothed wheel above the hole.
I finally found online that the mirror is attach by 8 plastic clips integrated into the black mirror backplate. They are in pairs at 10, 2 ,4 and 8 and between each pair is a conical locator pin also integrated into the backplate. To begin mirror removal, push the mirror in as far as possible so that you can see behind the mirror. (I used a shim between the mirror and keep the mirror slightly sprung out to improve my access to the backplate. Be gentle.) The clips and pin will be readily visible.
The clips are tedious to remove but since there are 8 clips I decided that I could sacrifice one to get things started in hopes that getting one pair loose would ease things a bit so that the other clips would be more cooperative if I created some play in the mirror. I was right. I used a "side cutter diagonal wire cutting nipper" to nip off the nearest clip. After that I carefully rocked and as gently as possible (so as not to damage the motor components) pulled on mirror until all clips popped loose. This took some patience. Hold on to the mirror securely and remember that the mirror heating wires are connected with simple flat pin terminals that you'll need to disconnect. In my car there was plenty of wire length so this was easy, however they were on tight so use care in removing. To replace into its housing simply push the mirror back in place until you all clips "click" and the mirror is secure. (Don't forget to re-attach the heater wires first!) This whole process is a big pain but doable.
In my case I was intending to remove the faded mirror housings so that I could paint them body color on the bench. After removing one mirror and finding that there were no easily removable connectors (or maybe no connectors) inside the mirror housing that would allow me to remove the housing, I simply decided to pain the mirror housing while still attached to the car. With some careful masking I accomplished the painting quite easily and with good results.
Good luck!
Thanks for sharing
Thank you so much, Robert. Greetings from Sweden!
+N'goo Tauna You are welcome.
Hi big hello from the UK Robert .Ive just subscribed to your channel as this video has helped me replace my damaged wing mirror thanks !!
+peter friel thank you for watching.
Once again, Robert saves me money and time! Thanks!
You are welcome
Glad you made it home safe.
Ken Knerr Thank.
Thanks, Robert!
You are welcome
Very good and detailed video:)
Volvo Micke Thanks for watching.
Easy enough to remove, i like the simple direct linkage, no power, no switches to fail :-)
A game of hunt the bolt :), most things seem to have that annoying feature, no wonder the average handyman has a few pointless screws left over after a repair.
Ive repaired laptops and had that problem, all holes filled and one screw left over, oh well i gained a screw ha ha :-D
zx8401ztv Spare screws. LOL
this might sound like a silly question but, if I just needed to replace the glass mirror part, how would I do that? thanks in advance.
I can not find that video.
+Robert DIY thanks.
the past was all leavers and cables the future is AWESOME all wire less and power EVERY THING ...
the future is Wonder full !!!!!
AwakeDude911 lol, I'm just glad I can see on that side of the car now. I don't like turning around much. I use the mirrors a lot.
I have a 2001 v70XC that intemittently calls P1132 codes. Any ideas?
Ken Knerr What is the code for? I have not looked it up.
Robert DIY Calls front O2 sensor. Comes and goes.
If the sensor has more than 100,000 miles on it, just replace it.
thx!
you are welcome.
not for 240
Not even a 1992?
This is the same thing with the electric mirrors on the 940 ?
Kinda