creality K1 Max: a second look at the cased aluminum bed from aliexpress

so this a fallow up on the:
creality K1 Max: a fix for the FVA and print bed level issue, and a look at the cased aluminum bed
• creality K1 Max: a fix...
and I not happy to say that it doesn't look that good so it turned more into a product review thing... but I can't fully point down what is wrong. if it's the heater mat of the cased bed it self
Bed leveling
the files for the spacers
www.printables...
how to install them
• Quick and Simple Way t...
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replacing the print bed
with a cased aluminum one
How to replace the heated bed
• Service Tutorial K1 MA...
video on crimping connectors wires
• Guide to crimp connect...
more details on cast aluminum printer beds
• Cast Aluminum Printer ...

[@TheOneOriginalJackal]

If you tighten the back side bed bolts, and leave the front bolts just a little lose, this would secure the bed, but also encourage the bed to expand more in horizontal plane, and less in vertical axis. Reducing cupping or bulging in the middle. All four corners tight makes the direction of expansion only up or down. All four corners lose may have less vertical expansion, but as you said, shakes and shifting.

[@UntangleWORKS]

I did check if loosen in all the screws up would make a difference just to see what happens to the bed. in this print bed is case it didn't really seem to make a difference the pastern was the same.
but I have heard about only tighten down 1 screw before for kinda that same reason you explain with the 2 bolts

[@mitchellcrane9809]

no metal plate is going to stay flat when you heat it from one side. That plate has recesses machined into the top for the magnets making the situation even worse. I would put your original bed back on. Another option is use a thick plate that does not have the magnets and attach it to the mounts with adjustment screws and springs like bed slingers. This will allow the bed to expand with out so much tension buildup. However in the end bowing up in the middle cannot be avoided no matter what. I print objects that span the bed and do not have a huge problem (on k1 max). This is not to say that the head tracks the bed perfectly as it does not but it works good enough. I think this issue is just the nature of the beast.

[@UntangleWORKS]

thanks for the reaction Mitchell. and that makes sense. I was told that would be less with cased aluminum but the points you make about the magnet pockets does make sense it crossed my mind later a bit as well like that does make the bed thinner actually

[@UntangleWORKS]

also I did also tested losing the bolts a bit and did the test again but that was pretty much the same type of deformation was happening

[@mitchellcrane9809]

@@UntangleWORKS It is not so much that the bed is thinner. It a matter of surface tension in the plate being disturbed across the surface of the plate by the holes. Warping will be less with cast aluminum if the heat is even , like if you just placed it in a hot chamber. In this case you are directly heating 1 side of the plate and the other side is unheated. The hot side is expanding more than the unheated side along with you have a issue with the edges of the plate not being heated and exposed to air. The edges of the plate are restrain the expansion of the plate also.

[@UntangleWORKS]

@@mitchellcrane9809 yeah that makes sense thanks for that