Jeep Brake Upgrade - Stretched Jeep TJ AXLE SWAP
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- เผยแพร่เมื่อ 28 ก.ย. 2024
- This video will show you how to make the big brakes in your one ton axles work flawlessly. Simple and EASY.
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WarPaintoffroa...
Parts:
2000 Ram 3500 VAN master Cylinder
(There are many different part numbers across many different manufacturers for this part. Just use the Google and you’ll find it)
***Disclaimer*** This video is just meant to show how I do it. Injury may occur by trying to replicate what is in this video. Attempt at your own risk, with proper equipment and training.
Great video and way cheaper than buying an aftermarket setup. Happy father's day by the way
Thanks for the support! And this will lock up 40 inch tires no problem. It works great.
Nice. I like doing the OE mix and match to make things work. Thank you for sharing and Happy Father's Day!
Thanks for the support!
I did this upgrade a couple months ago. I didn’t have to change pushrod, not sure the difference 100% but it’s a 1999 Jeep a Cherokee booster.
Some people have to…some people don’t. I’m not exactly sure why some do and some don’t…but it works really well on some rigs. Weird. Maybe they used different length pushrods from the factory? But the info is all over the place in the internet. I guess that’s why. Thanks for the support!
Off topic: My buddy just spent all day changing out his upper and lower ball joints on his 2001 dana 50/60 with new Moog components.
So the alignment shop called and he went down to see.
His new lower ball joints are shot!!!??
Seen the wiggle.
He’s pissed needless to say.
What brand do you use? Spicer?
looks like the Piston chamber was larger also, it probably has a larger piston to.
It has a much larger piston. So it moves a bunch more fluid with each press of the pedal. Works really well.
So..... do you turn the new bolt in the same number of threads as the old bolt? Or is there a measurement you are looking for?
I put it in all the way. You just have to adjust it until it fits but still allows the new master to sit flush against the booster. Some people use the bolt, some people can get away with not removing the factory one and adjusting it, I had to use the bolt. Not sure what the difference is between Jeeps and different model years…but that way of approaching it will get you set up.
@@WarPaintOffroad I did the WJ brakes on my D30 a while back. The stock Master couldn't do the job so I did this Master cylinder swap. I didn't change the bolt. The brakes work but they don't work great and the pedal is hard. It's almost like the booster is bad, but it was fine before I swapped the master.
@@samsanderson7159 it could be that. Tbh, it could also just be a vacuum leak too. So many potential issues with an older vehicle. Tbh, the first master that I did this with on the TJ was bad out of the box and was filling the booster with brake fluid and not pushing it to the brakes. So you just never know these days.
Is there a similar swap for a jkur?
There is! So you can do the j8 brake booster and master cylinder…or you can use the factory style larger piston master cylinder. Part number 13063070 will get you a master cylinder with a slightly larger bore size. It moves enough fluid to actually stop them pretty well. Not as good as the j8 (it’s technically 1/16 smaller)…but a GREAT option. Bleeding is rough on the jku though. You’ll DEFINITELY have to bench bleed it. And then probably bleed the system a dozen times with something like the jscan app to get all the air out of the ABS system.
I have a 2013 stick shift jkur. I have heard that there are some issues with the j8? What is the oem application of the other cylinder?