My free spool was seized up and I had NO clue how to separate that ring out of the housing and your slap on the bench method solved it! Hell of a job on this video series!
Great series...Am about to rebuild a Warn M8000, and not only learned heaps from your tutorials about how to do it, but learned even more about what I didn't know that I had to know! Greets from SW Oz!
Am half way into my M8000 after watching this vid...my freespool is completely seized (@17.00). I freed it by putting the cap and gear assembly in the oven at 220deg for 2 hours, then melting candle wax into the crack between the housing and the gear, and also putting a few lumps into the hole for the engage lever, letting gravity take it deeper into the cap to lube the bottom contact area of the gear (trick from an old hand local farmer too free rusty nuts and bolts). Set up some wooden blocks on the bench and slammed it down about 10 times, til it started to move, then another ten and it was out. Very dirty and gunky, but cleaning up fine now. I'll have to repaint the cap, and restick the 'engage/disengage stickers (unless I can get a new pack), but it saved me $330 (aussie)...All the planetaries cleaned up fine, now onto the motor!
I just bought a winch for $50 rated at 8,000 pounds pull and it is only doing the clicking with no movement. The seller said he didn't know what to do. This video series is excellent for guidance to remedy this. Thank you.
Brake assembly: Turn front (outer) lobe plate clockwise. That's the way it showed it disassembled in this video. This was stated several times in "comments." Thought I'd say it again and a different, simple way...for simple minds like mine
Thanks for yoir really clear video. I dismantle my warn 8000 winch but it appears that the inside brake system is different. I found on the warn website on blue prints that the first model had this different system, replaced after with the same model you are showing in the video. The problem is that I don't see how to remove it of the drum. Nothing to squeeze or load off. I tried to hit the assembly from.the teeth side but nothing moved. I don't want to damage it or brake it. Any idea ? Thanks!
@@LRLiveUK thanks for your answer ! So fast 😉 I guess it is what you mentionned. On the prints, it is said "replaced by the nr xx737 assembly". On mine, I can clearly see needle bearings on both side of the brake assembly. I guess I have to destroy it abd replaced with the new kit. I cleaned up mine but last question, if you don't mind : I clamp the drum in the vice. I took a Allen wrench to turn the braking system. Clockwise it is smooth and free. I have a resistance anticlockwise. So, should the drum really stop when I turn that way or a resistance is enough? I saw in your video that when you put back the motor, you engaged the gearbox and it looks that it was locked by hand. Thanks again!
Thanks for the upload. Great video. Just thought I’d add, at 22:42 - Rather than applying WD40 to the machines surface of the gear housing, the recommendation from Warn is to add a light coating of light grade machine oil to the inside of the gear housing where the sliding ring gear rides. For greasing, Aeroshell 64 Grease (the direct replacement for Aeroshell #17 and Aeroshell 33ms) is recommended. Cheers!
I got a used winch. " recently rebuilt, works fine" but the brake didn't hold when I first used it. Watched your video and took mine apart and saw the brake wasn't given the half spin. I'm guessing it is spring loaded to engage the brake and as the motor spins the cap it compresses the cams and disengages the brake. Looks like it locks the motor shaft to the drum and something in the gears has it spinning the opposite direction of the drum to move the line so it can't go both directions at once is why it stops.
I bought a tabor 9000 winch to be period correct for my jeep. What the videos showed was an easy disassembly all my parts are rusted and frozen tight and cant seem to get either end completely apart and the brake wont release to slide out the drum either. Still soaking in sea foam deep creep hoping I can get some advise here.
Thank you for the Great Videos.. Mine is a Harbor Freight 120V That worked fine a Month ago but I forgot that I hadn't put it up and was left out in rain for about three weeks! I thought it was OK and spent last week or so building a mobile frame to mount it on for Yard Jobs, lawnmower..etc. Today as I was about to mount..I tried it and it's not Moving either way. From your vid I'm pretty sure the Motor corroded and froze.. My DIY jobs make More work for me! Thanks again. PS: what's with the 'Dwane Brown' guy spamming the same question over and over? People are very strange these days.
Excellent video as it goes, as mentioned in another comment there is an error in the brake rebuild. It's a minor but an important one. I also disagree with the lubrication of the gear box, the correct grease specified by warn is Shell MS33, it's designed specifically for sliding parts and water repulsion. I put a thin coating on the outside of the free spool ring without issues on my M10000. If you want to avoid the extra drag in free spool though wd40 isn't a great idea. It's a degreaser and over time (with regular applications) will kill the grease. A light oil would be a much better bet.
10:35 seconds! You clocked the spring the wrong way. If you look at how it released when you let the tension off it should go the other direction. This is vital to get the brake to function properly!
Fraser look at the video at 5:43 seconds, notice the orientation of the tabs on the brake cams before you use your needle nose pliers to release the brake tension! Then look at it at 11:28 seconds after you install the brake assembly! You are going to hurt someone with this miss information. The brake slides around + in and out like nothing because it is not working properly! ----------------- You wind the spring 1/2 a turn in the direction that makes the coils of the spring get tighter, not expand. I'm not trying to be a jerk to you, there is just so much info out there about this that is WRONG, yours included. This detail is one that could hurt someone!
Yeah I know because words hurt right, even more then a winch brake failing and a vehicle running you over! If saying something is wrong that is potentially a life saving detail make me a smug arse then I am the biggest one out there. !!!!
Thank you very much for this video, but VX Adventures is correct. You assembled the brake wrong. Luckily I caught that as well. It came apart one way and you assembled it winding in the wrong direction. For people watching this the spring on the brake should be wound tighter and want to unwind on the long slope on the cams, not trying to climb the short rise.
Perfect video. 10/10. Such great attention to detail 👏
My free spool was seized up and I had NO clue how to separate that ring out of the housing and your slap on the bench method solved it! Hell of a job on this video series!
Great series...Am about to rebuild a Warn M8000, and not only learned heaps from your tutorials about how to do it, but learned even more about what I didn't know that I had to know! Greets from SW Oz!
Great video. Shows all the do’s and dont’s with reasoning and what to look for. Quality stuff.
Am half way into my M8000 after watching this vid...my freespool is completely seized (@17.00). I freed it by putting the cap and gear assembly in the oven at 220deg for 2 hours, then melting candle wax into the crack between the housing and the gear, and also putting a few lumps into the hole for the engage lever, letting gravity take it deeper into the cap to lube the bottom contact area of the gear (trick from an old hand local farmer too free rusty nuts and bolts). Set up some wooden blocks on the bench and slammed it down about 10 times, til it started to move, then another ten and it was out. Very dirty and gunky, but cleaning up fine now. I'll have to repaint the cap, and restick the 'engage/disengage stickers (unless I can get a new pack), but it saved me $330 (aussie)...All the planetaries cleaned up fine, now onto the motor!
I just bought a winch for $50 rated at 8,000 pounds pull and it is only doing the clicking with no movement. The seller said he didn't know what to do. This video series is excellent for guidance to remedy this. Thank you.
Brake assembly: Turn front (outer) lobe plate clockwise. That's the way it showed it disassembled in this video. This was stated several times in "comments." Thought I'd say it again and a different, simple way...for simple minds like mine
Great series, very well presented information. I appreciate you sharing your expertise!
Thanks for yoir really clear video. I dismantle my warn 8000 winch but it appears that the inside brake system is different. I found on the warn website on blue prints that the first model had this different system, replaced after with the same model you are showing in the video.
The problem is that I don't see how to remove it of the drum. Nothing to squeeze or load off.
I tried to hit the assembly from.the teeth side but nothing moved. I don't want to damage it or brake it. Any idea ? Thanks!
I'm not familiar with the older design sorry. It's possible it's not servicable which is why they changed the design maybe?
@@LRLiveUK thanks for your answer ! So fast 😉
I guess it is what you mentionned. On the prints, it is said "replaced by the nr xx737 assembly". On mine, I can clearly see needle bearings on both side of the brake assembly. I guess I have to destroy it abd replaced with the new kit.
I cleaned up mine but last question, if you don't mind : I clamp the drum in the vice. I took a Allen wrench to turn the braking system. Clockwise it is smooth and free. I have a resistance anticlockwise. So, should the drum really stop when I turn that way or a resistance is enough? I saw in your video that when you put back the motor, you engaged the gearbox and it looks that it was locked by hand. Thanks again!
Very well explained!!
Thanks a lot for the valuable information , specially about the lubrication of the ring gear and everything referred with the brake assembly
Thanks for the upload. Great video. Just thought I’d add, at 22:42 - Rather than applying WD40 to the machines surface of the gear housing, the recommendation from Warn is to add a light coating of light grade machine oil to the inside of the gear housing where the sliding ring gear rides. For greasing, Aeroshell 64 Grease (the direct replacement for Aeroshell #17 and Aeroshell 33ms) is recommended. Cheers!
Ll khutbah
I got a used winch. " recently rebuilt, works fine" but the brake didn't hold when I first used it. Watched your video and took mine apart and saw the brake wasn't given the half spin. I'm guessing it is spring loaded to engage the brake and as the motor spins the cap it compresses the cams and disengages the brake. Looks like it locks the motor shaft to the drum and something in the gears has it spinning the opposite direction of the drum to move the line so it can't go both directions at once is why it stops.
Fantastic knowledge
Nicely done. Thank you for taking the time to video this.
Great video..this helped me troubleshoot the problem with the free spool on my Badlands winch. Thanks.
Great tuterial . Awesome tips.
I bought a tabor 9000 winch to be period correct for my jeep. What the videos showed was an easy disassembly all my parts are rusted and frozen tight and cant seem to get either end completely apart and the brake wont release to slide out the drum either. Still soaking in sea foam deep creep hoping I can get some advise here.
Great video you can also use a cable tie to hold the brake assembly
Thank you for the Great Videos.. Mine is a Harbor Freight 120V That worked fine a Month ago but I forgot that I hadn't put it up and was left out in rain for about three weeks! I thought it was OK and spent last week or so building a mobile frame to mount it on for Yard Jobs, lawnmower..etc.
Today as I was about to mount..I tried it and it's not Moving either way. From your vid I'm pretty sure the Motor corroded and froze.. My DIY jobs make More work for me! Thanks again.
PS: what's with the 'Dwane Brown' guy spamming the same question over and over? People are very strange these days.
Hi. My Warn 3400 winch says to use Shell Aeroshell grease. Is there a equivalent in other grease?.
Thanks from Oamaru New Zealand.
Excellent video as it goes, as mentioned in another comment there is an error in the brake rebuild. It's a minor but an important one.
I also disagree with the lubrication of the gear box, the correct grease specified by warn is Shell MS33, it's designed specifically for sliding parts and water repulsion. I put a thin coating on the outside of the free spool ring without issues on my M10000. If you want to avoid the extra drag in free spool though wd40 isn't a great idea. It's a degreaser and over time (with regular applications) will kill the grease. A light oil would be a much better bet.
Very helpful video, thank you very much !
best clip regarding winch repair/Thank You.
10:37 rotates in the other direction and work perfect.
I wonder if any of the high-end winches use roller bearings for the drum instead of bushings
what about using a brake cylinder hone to clean drum?
I mount the brake like you did but the brake doesn't work.any idea?
Excellent Repair Video ! Thanks !!
10:35 seconds! You clocked the spring the wrong way. If you look at how it released when you let the tension off it should go the other direction. This is vital to get the brake to function properly!
VX Adventures has functioned perfectly since. But thanks for the comment
Fraser look at the video at 5:43 seconds, notice the orientation of the tabs on the brake cams before you use your needle nose pliers to release the brake tension! Then look at it at 11:28 seconds after you install the brake assembly! You are going to hurt someone with this miss information. The brake slides around + in and out like nothing because it is not working properly! ----------------- You wind the spring 1/2 a turn in the direction that makes the coils of the spring get tighter, not expand. I'm not trying to be a jerk to you, there is just so much info out there about this that is WRONG, yours included. This detail is one that could hurt someone!
Yeah I know because words hurt right, even more then a winch brake failing and a vehicle running you over! If saying something is wrong that is potentially a life saving detail make me a smug arse then I am the biggest one out there. !!!!
He did an excellent video ! Where are your you tube videos ?
I'm sure that he mean't this video for those who are mechanically minded at least and he did a superb Job of explaining ! You can't ask for more !
Top instructions mate, help me reviving a dead winch 🙏
Thank you very much for this video, but VX Adventures is correct. You assembled the brake wrong. Luckily I caught that as well. It came apart one way and you assembled it winding in the wrong direction. For people watching this the spring on the brake should be wound tighter and want to unwind on the long slope on the cams, not trying to climb the short rise.
Wonderful video
Use 25% muratic acid cleans corrosion in hard to reach areas flush with water. Limit amount of time it is on aluminum or brass.
Would you not be better off using a silicon spray instead of WD-40
having trouble with free spoll on my wench total rebuild reverse and forward work fine want free spool need help
having trouble with free spoll on my wench total rebuild reverse and forward work fine want free spool need
having trouble with free spoll on my wench total rebuild reverse and forward work fine want free spool need help
having trouble with free spoll on my wench total rebuild reverse and forward work fine want free spool need
having trouble with free spoll on my wench total rebuild reverse and forward work fine want free spool need help
having trouble with free spoll on my wench total rebuild reverse and forward work fine want free spool need
Dwayne Brown take a look at the other parts 2 and 3