The transparency on your channel is great, to see you work through the unknowns & mistakes you deal with shows your keeping it real 👍 Hats off to you m8 : )
Excellent Dan, I was going to say use a heat gun to help with removing the cylinder, it has worked for me in the past on some cylinders and cylinder heads.
Those phillips heads are not Phillips usually. They are JIS, with a proper JIS bit or driver they all come out with ease and JIS drivers works better on regular Phillips heads to.
Great video Dan, I’m rebuilding an earlier DOHC CB750 over on my channel. I definitely recommend the plastic packers route. It really made light work of it, no need for an overhead “seesaw” or anything like that.
Thanks for the clear video!. The stuck barrels are a frequent issue with stripping down bike engines. The front of the engine gets sort of welded together because its exposed to rain dirt and moisture while riding. The piston ring friction does not help either. generally wide levers gently hammered in around the joint to gradually work the barrels off are what one usually has to resort to!
Hi Dan I just pulled my 1996 Honda CB750 F2 top end apart and had the same problem with the cylinders stuck fast, My solution was to put a long flat plate with holes drilled out for the cylinder bolts to slide through across the centre where the cam chain runs. The I had a smaller plate the sat on top of the four centre studs with nuts on top to protect the threads this plate bolted to the long plate below and then installed the four 6mm bolts on the outer cam chain housing. Now I could tighten those 6mm bolts and pull the cylinder off the crankcase with a little help taping the lower corners of the cylinder to crankcase spots. No fin tapping
@@CafeRacerGarage Thanks mate it worked really good but don't put too much pressure on those 6mm bolts As you were saying the fins on the head and cylinders are very delicate
My best tip is oil in the cylinder walls and rotating the engine. Then lift the cylinders and dead blow mallet tapping the block, sideways on the cylinder fins as you did, and the cylinder head studs (with nuts on top just to be sure) - worked well, quick and easy with every engine i have broken down so far 🙂
Good to see a teardown with cautions about breaking things. Also important to loosen the small bolts holding the head to cylinder block before loosening the main head nuts. The cylinder base gaskets on these engines are often baked onto the case and cylinder block. Your friends solution seems to have helped break that seal. There are alignment dowels at both joints, head to cylinders & cylinders to case, so it's important to pull these parts off without tipping. The alternator chain tensioner is probably automatic. The service manual should tell you more. Check the Technical Features section. Good Luck with the rest of your project!
Hello Dan you are doing a great job with you¨re videos and i really appreciate your hard work . I just want to tell you that the problem of the alternator chain tensioner is that little spring ( 9:47 ) ... look a it very well and you will see that is out of his place. i am doing the reconstrucion of the engine of a 1993 model and i have dissassembled the engine for that spring failure. I have modified the tensioner and now i am sure is lifetime warranty. Regards and congratulations for youre hard work and good quality videos. CHEERS...
Nice video Dan. Sometimes cylinders seem to come off easy and then sometimes you get the cylinders from hell, but nice job mate. Honda chain tensioner"s have been a pain on and off over the years, ride safe. Cheers
10:05 "i've got a couple options" ... I was thinking it would have been possible to to have left the head on , flipped the motor , pulled the lower case , pulled the crank , replaced the chains and lower tensioner and put the whole thing back together , just saying on a low budget scenario this might be a possibility eh ??
I split the engine apart on my 82 CB750 a couple years ago, but I may have a winter project as my new job may force me to go into the office a couple times a week and gas would be much cheaper for the bike than my SUV. So far the total cost of the bike might be $600 CAD, and I need to buy crank and connecting rod bearings. So in total, the bike might stand me $1000, because tires will need to be replaced too. It will be a fun ride back and forth.
So at this point here 8:00 with the oil pan off , is there any access to the alternator chain slack adjuster ? Can it be inspected here like if the engine was still in the bike ? On my motor i removed the alternator cover and grabbed the alternator fan and was able to rotate the shaft back and forth and assess whether there was very much backlash, i found there to there to be very little backlash and no shaft radial or axial movement . So now i'm thinking my noise source may be the timing chain ? Anybody else here been there done that ?
Hey I got a question, I also have the double overhead cam engine. When you look at the base of the spark plug, on the front side of the spark plug area (cam and head cover) there were two identical holes that went into the block but I can’t tell if they’re going all the way through. It’s the same on both sides. Did you have that also? It’s right next to the spark plug.
A trick to removing the cylinder is to rotate the crankshaft by hand and put the penetrating oil in the cylinder. Then bring all the pistons to the same halfway point, then try tapping the cylinder off
Cylinderhead Stays r generally a pain in the a** at older naked Honda Multicylinder bikes... they tend to gunk with sand and dirt at the front side. Well, mayb it just sticks out at Hondas since they are the pretty much only ones running inline fours/six after like 40 years. 😉
Hi, I live Australia and I think you do also? My question is how many kilometres had the bike done before you pulled the engine apart?, also were the piston bores within specification? I am just about to watch part two
I can’t actually remember how many kilometres maybe about 60,000 and yes everything was within spec the internals were perfect it was more of a freshen up and find the rattle
so you really do have to split the case open like that to replace the shifter drum? that's what mine needs. problem is the drum for 92 is nla but is available for 95. ordered one hoping it's the same or near enough.
those screws are JIS and chances are about 100% someone tried to undo them with a Philips driver, and then ruin them. you can safely replace them by allen screws but not stainless, that will oxidize itself stuck into the aluminium
Well done, seems like you found the reason for the rattle 😊 I can see you are doing one thing wrong: you are using a hammer on your ratchet to loosen bolts 😮 You should use a breaker bar first, most kits include one. I do the same all the time, and I have destroyed a couple of ratchets because of the misuse 🥴 I have a lot of unused breaker bars though, If you need one 😁
If you can source some cams from a CBX 750 F you can get more performance out of it, the engines are practically the same bar some minor improvements on the later engine. Currently have to pull my CBX 750 engine apart as I have some major vibrations coming through from the engine at about 3500-4000 rpm so this is quite handy to know how to take it apart. Also those chain tensioners were a common fail point in the CBX's so not to surprised they failed on the CB750, seems the automatic chain tensioner seized a bit and won't ratchet forward. A good source of info as well is fj1200.info the owner of the site has some good writeups on the CBX 750 and those chain tensioners.
I thought he was working on a CBX 750 variant to start with ? His is the sprocket main drive output version of that engine, so his crank drives the tranny with a gear where the earlier CB's drove the tranny with a chain , or i have i got this mixed up ?
![★ CB750 ENGINE REBUILD, LOOK WHAT WE FOUND INSIDE!!! [PART 2]](http://i.ytimg.com/vi/XGB9DX9brzk/mqdefault.jpg)
![★ CB750 ENGINE REBUILD, LOOK WHAT WE FOUND INSIDE!!! [PART 2]](/img/tr.png)
The transparency on your channel is great, to see you work through the unknowns & mistakes you deal with shows your keeping it real 👍 Hats off to you m8 : )
Thank you mate. It’s a learning experience all round. 😊
The audio leveling is way better than previous videos You're doing an amazing job dude
As long as I’m getting better 😊
Excellent Dan, I was going to say use a heat gun to help with removing the cylinder, it has worked for me in the past on some cylinders and cylinder heads.
Another great idea
I also did replace those two phillips screws for Allen ones.
100 % I will do the same
Sometimes you’re asking why engineer put those type of screw... we know that they will definitely not work with years and years...
Those phillips heads are not Phillips usually. They are JIS, with a proper JIS bit or driver they all come out with ease and JIS drivers works better on regular Phillips heads to.
Great video Dan, I’m rebuilding an earlier DOHC CB750 over on my channel. I definitely recommend the plastic packers route. It really made light work of it, no need for an overhead “seesaw” or anything like that.
Thanks for the clear video!. The stuck barrels are a frequent issue with stripping down bike engines. The front of the engine gets sort of welded together because its exposed to rain dirt and moisture while riding. The piston ring friction does not help either. generally wide levers gently hammered in around the joint to gradually work the barrels off are what one usually has to resort to!
Hi Dan I just pulled my 1996 Honda CB750 F2 top end apart and had the same problem with the cylinders stuck fast,
My solution was to put a long flat plate with holes drilled out for the cylinder bolts to slide through across the centre where the cam chain runs. The I had a smaller plate the sat on top of the four centre studs with nuts on top to protect the threads this plate bolted to the long plate below and then installed the four 6mm bolts on the outer cam chain housing.
Now I could tighten those 6mm bolts and pull the cylinder off the crankcase with a little help taping the lower corners of the cylinder to crankcase spots. No fin tapping
Great idea brother 😮👍
@@CafeRacerGarage Thanks mate it worked really good but don't put too much pressure on those 6mm bolts
As you were saying the fins on the head and cylinders are very delicate
I had the same Problems to bring off the head and Zylinder. Long time work for days
My best tip is oil in the cylinder walls and rotating the engine. Then lift the cylinders and dead blow mallet tapping the block, sideways on the cylinder fins as you did, and the cylinder head studs (with nuts on top just to be sure) - worked well, quick and easy with every engine i have broken down so far 🙂
Good to see a teardown with cautions about breaking things. Also important to loosen the small bolts holding the head to cylinder block before loosening the main head nuts. The cylinder base gaskets on these engines are often baked onto the case and cylinder block. Your friends solution seems to have helped break that seal. There are alignment dowels at both joints, head to cylinders & cylinders to case, so it's important to pull these parts off without tipping. The alternator chain tensioner is probably automatic. The service manual should tell you more. Check the Technical Features section. Good Luck with the rest of your project!
Thank you Millar we never stop learning do we
Fantastic video Dan. Looks like we were on point with the rattle issue:) Always love your work.
Always warm your parts with a hair dryer if they won't separate easily. The peices will expand individually make bonds easier to separate.
Heatgun can be a huge help, around the studs. 😎
Hello Dan you are doing a great job with you¨re videos and i really appreciate your hard work .
I just want to tell you that the problem of the alternator chain tensioner is that little spring ( 9:47 ) ... look a it very well and you will see that is out of his place.
i am doing the reconstrucion of the engine of a 1993 model and i have dissassembled the engine for that spring failure.
I have modified the tensioner and now i am sure is lifetime warranty.
Regards and congratulations for youre hard work and good quality videos. CHEERS...
Yeah him pushing down on the tensioner runner should be causing the tensioner unit to ratchet ahead and it is not doing that , its def seized up !
Great job my friend I like the way you try as you go finding solutions as well.
Thank you mate, just learning as I go. Yes that’s the best way
Nice video Dan. Sometimes cylinders seem to come off easy and then sometimes you get the cylinders from hell, but nice job mate. Honda chain tensioner"s have been a pain on and off over the years, ride safe. Cheers
Thank you mate. Glad i finally know what it is and now I can fix it
10:05 "i've got a couple options" ... I was thinking it would have been possible to to have left the head on , flipped the motor , pulled the lower case , pulled the crank , replaced the chains and lower tensioner and put the whole thing back together , just saying on a low budget scenario this might be a possibility eh ??
That musical sting when it was still bolted had me in stitches 🤣
Thank you mate lol 😂 I think I actually laughed myself when I forgot those bolts
Thank you for the videos Dan.
I split the engine apart on my 82 CB750 a couple years ago, but I may have a winter project as my new job may force me to go into the office a couple times a week and gas would be much cheaper for the bike than my SUV. So far the total cost of the bike might be $600 CAD, and I need to buy crank and connecting rod bearings. So in total, the bike might stand me $1000, because tires will need to be replaced too. It will be a fun ride back and forth.
Cheers Dan thats gonna give me a few pointers to look at as n when i pull mine apart . Brekkie was good worth the wait for your video. Thanks Dan
Thanx Gary. It’s still a long way to go to get it back together
So at this point here 8:00 with the oil pan off , is there any access to the alternator chain slack adjuster ? Can it be inspected here like if the engine was still in the bike ?
On my motor i removed the alternator cover and grabbed the alternator fan and was able to rotate the shaft back and forth and assess whether there was very much backlash, i found there to there to be very little backlash and no shaft radial or axial movement .
So now i'm thinking my noise source may be the timing chain ?
Anybody else here been there done that ?
Hey I got a question, I also have the double overhead cam engine. When you look at the base of the spark plug, on the front side of the spark plug area (cam and head cover) there were two identical holes that went into the block but I can’t tell if they’re going all the way through. It’s the same on both sides. Did you have that also? It’s right next to the spark plug.
Superb video, Dan. Quite an undertaking to rip her open but a perfect excuse to acquire more tools! Good luck…
🏍👍👍
More tools more tools more tools, just as well these ones are small and can fit in a drawer. I’m running out of room
@@CafeRacerGarage ha! Then it’s time for an additional garage bay! 😎
@@garya3056 so true
@@CafeRacerGarage ✔️
A trick to removing the cylinder is to rotate the crankshaft by hand and put the penetrating oil in the cylinder. Then bring all the pistons to the same halfway point, then try tapping the cylinder off
Great idea 😁 thanx Dean
Cylinderhead Stays r generally a pain in the a** at older naked Honda Multicylinder bikes... they tend to gunk with sand and dirt at the front side. Well, mayb it just sticks out at Hondas since they are the pretty much only ones running inline fours/six after like 40 years. 😉
It’s the cylinder block not the cylinder head....
any idea what pitch and length the alt chain is?
2 right mate. Fair dinkum
Camchain, camchain tensioner, camchain slipper, alternator chain, alternator chain tensioner....the usual Honda issues😎
I had the same issue on my xs750 with the cylinder part not coming out. I had an extra one laying around, so I got the crowbar out😂
From what I e been told they can be super hard to get off sometimes
My Cb 750 rattling sound and the front shocks are weak I need help
Hi, I live Australia and I think you do also?
My question is how many kilometres had the bike done before you pulled the engine apart?, also were the piston bores within specification?
I am just about to watch part two
I can’t actually remember how many kilometres maybe about 60,000 and yes everything was within spec the internals were perfect it was more of a freshen up and find the rattle
@@CafeRacerGarage Ok, thanks, I'm actually watching part 2 as you sent your reply
It wasn't the cylinderhead... :-) Nice film.
Need to make mistakes sometimes lol 😂
It is called cylinder bank
At first i though i was watching Guga food based on the background music.
so you really do have to split the case open like that to replace the shifter drum? that's what mine needs. problem is the drum for 92 is nla but is available for 95. ordered one hoping it's the same or near enough.
Yes
those screws are JIS and chances are about 100% someone tried to undo them with a Philips driver, and then ruin them. you can safely replace them by allen screws but not stainless, that will oxidize itself stuck into the aluminium
Seeing this at 4:51 AM
That’s early
Well done, seems like you found the reason for the rattle 😊 I can see you are doing one thing wrong: you are using a hammer on your ratchet to loosen bolts 😮 You should use a breaker bar first, most kits include one. I do the same all the time, and I have destroyed a couple of ratchets because of the misuse 🥴 I have a lot of unused breaker bars though, If you need one 😁
Haha I was waiting for someone to notice me doing that lol 😂
I know I shouldn’t do it but I still do sometimes 😐 it’s a bad habit
@@CafeRacerGarage hehe, you are not alone... :-D
If you can source some cams from a CBX 750 F you can get more performance out of it, the engines are practically the same bar some minor improvements on the later engine. Currently have to pull my CBX 750 engine apart as I have some major vibrations coming through from the engine at about 3500-4000 rpm so this is quite handy to know how to take it apart. Also those chain tensioners were a common fail point in the CBX's so not to surprised they failed on the CB750, seems the automatic chain tensioner seized a bit and won't ratchet forward. A good source of info as well is fj1200.info the owner of the site has some good writeups on the CBX 750 and those chain tensioners.
Thank you for this comment mate I appreciate this information a lot 😁
I thought he was working on a CBX 750 variant to start with ?
His is the sprocket main drive output version of that engine, so his crank drives the tranny with a gear where the earlier CB's drove the tranny with a chain , or i have i got this mixed up ?
That "counter bearing cover" most likely got tore up when a chain snapped earlier it its life.
Yes you are probably right
Never ask this guy if your motor sound good :-D
Tonne vois sovittaa jonku v6 diiselin
I don't want to sound like the safety nerd but can you put a jacket on when you weld it can cause skin cancer
I normally do but I was only tackling here