Great video, Trenton. A few notes for anyone going through comments thinking about doing this themselves- this from someone with very little wood finishing experience before going into this project but has since fallen down very deep rabbit holes on woodworking forums, etc. 1. Maybe it wasn't shown in the video, but make sure you're doing at least one coat of poly on the bottom if you're planning on using this long term. This is real wood so it has the potential to warp, etc. over time - a finish helps stabilize in this regard and you don't want the different sides to warp differently. One on the bottom seems to be considered sufficient. 2. Use a wood conditioner or pre-stain. This is going to help get a uniform stain without blotching. Especially as this is a beech tabletop - a wood with a reputation of staining inconsistently. There is a This Old House video that is one of the first results when searching TH-cam for 'how to finish a table' that illustrates the importance of this. 3. In this video a water based poly is used with an oil based stain (i think.) It is generally recommended that you remain consistently on oil/oil or water/water. 4. Poly can take ~30 days to 'cure' even after it has dried/the odor has dissipated. It is considered OK for 'light use' when it hasn't fully cured but I've read some folks comment that long term, weight from their monitor arm mount holding 2+ monitors messed up the finish underneath because they didn't let the poly cure. Now, if that spot is covered by your monitor arm anyway - who cares - but something to consider. I do think it is kinda funny that a lot of the tutorials for finishing this desk in the 'gamer' space have a way abbreviated timeline than a lot of the oldheads on woodworking forums. 5. From experience, consider thinning your poly if you go the oil route. Makes things a lot easier. Either thin it to up to 50/50 with mineral spirits or just buy a 'wipe on' Poly to start with. All in all this was a fun project and I am very happy with my desk, and the whole journey basically started with stumbling on this video. Thanks!
what about the ikea Karlby wood veneer table tops? I've read somewhere that mineral spirits shouldn't be used on wood veneers cause it can sink in and dissolve(?) the glue under the veener?! Because in wipe-on-poly as I've read, it's just already mixed poly with mineral spirits, and normal polyurethane is better to be mixed 50:50 with mineral spirits to get the best out of it for multiple layers. So for me it sounds like there is no way around mineral Spirits? Did anyone tried it on like 3mm wood veener?
Hey, this is a great explainer that I'm actually following right now. A couple of addenda that I've learned by doing this process myself: 1. The stain/PE coats needs a minimum room temp of 55F. If you're doing this in an unheated garage, you might consider running a space heater to warm things up. 2. You might consider putting on a wood conditioner before the stain. This makes the stain more even. Depends on what you want the finished product to look like. 3. The stain instructions suggests stepping up through more sanding intervals - 120, 150, 180, 220 4. Match the stain types to the PE finish. E.g. pair an oil-based stain with an oil-based finish. 5. The dust mask doesn't protect you from the stain/finish fumes. For that, you need a respirator with organic vapor cartridges. 6. Don't repeat my mistake and sand with rougher sandpaper between PE coats. I thought I could get rid of some bumps with 150 grit and oooh boy was that a mistake. It ate through the coat AND the stain. My bad. Please don't take any of this as criticism. This project is a great idea, just passing along some things I learned along the way.
Eli, I appreciate the feedback. All of these are great points you’ve made. Sometimes when you’re trying to figure out a DIY project but also find yourself filming at the same time, a few things are overlooked. I’m going to pin your comment as you’ve brought some great knowledge to the video. Thanks again for the input.
@@pnwmeditations What happens if you use a water-based PE over hardwax oil or oil stain? I ask because my desktop came pretreated w/ hardwax oil and just wanted to apply water based PE to avoid the toxins/smells of oil
@@NurseAnesthesia1 I couldn't tell you - I just followed the advice of the Ask This Old House Guys. I suppose you could sand off the treatment, but that would be a lot of elbow grease. I sympathize with you though, the oil-based PE treatment does have an odor that lingers for a couple of weeks.
Dude I pretty much just finished my table top with your instructions. Appreciate the help buddy. I stained mine dark walnut & got a butcher block piece from Home Depot. Came out awesome.
Do you have a video ? Thinking about doing the exact same thing ... butcher block from HD and staining with dark walnut ... now that I see this espresso look I’m stuck between the two stains 😩
I was in the market for the Ikea Karlby but 74” is too long for my small apartment. I didn’t want to deal with cutting it so I went to Home Depot, Got a 50” butchers block, stained and poly’d following your video, and it looks amazing! Thank you for this!
rivrtheories literally was going to buy the karlby... also too big for apartment and IKEA isn’t offering cutting services right now (plus wouldn’t be delivered for a month). Went to Home Depot bought the 50” birch top, and came back to this video to see if someone asked whether you sand after the final coat. Haha living the same life!
@@jameshernandez1451You'll want to sand the entire desktop (edges and underside too) with a coarse 80 grit sandpaper first, going with the grain. (The Gerton tabletops tend to be a bit rough around the edges straight out of the box. Mine had some rough spots and a slight 2mm dip about 3cm wide running down half the length of the desk. The 80 grit helped shape those away.) *Wipe or blow away the sawdust after each sanding.* After removing imperfections with 80, then switch to 120 and finish with 220. 220 grit is a more fine sandpaper and leaves a smoother feeling surface. Before I sanded, I used a router to round off the edges of the desktop to give it a better look and make it easier for sanding the sides.
just got the 8 oz polyurethane can and worried it wouldn't be enough because that can is TINY, lol. Then I remembered this video and saw that you got 3 coats out of it so I calmed down quick. Overreaction? Sure, but such is life. Side note, I'm willing to bet I'm not the only one who came to this video to finish up their quarantine desk 😅
Thank you for the awesome video! After looking around for a new solid wood table top for a while I think you've convinced me that this is the way to go.
When you were staining how long did you wait before flipping and doing the other side? I’m about to start this exact same project. Also, how long did you wait between coats of polyurethane?
Ty for this video, I've been using a Karlby for almost a year now without doing anything to it other than occasionally spraying some wood polish on it, but I want to protect it more since I've gotten a small ding and once small stain on it and dont want more
Same! I had mine for 2 years and it had collected some pretty bad stains from my sweaty hands during gaming sessions. Had to do something to protect it!
Why can't more people just be short and straight to the point instead of making these 10 - 20 minute videos. I find that anywhere between 3 - 5 minutes is the sweet spot. Instead of a bunch of vlogging garbage, just get to the point! Can't TH-camrs try and present more professionally vs random shit being thrown at?
After watching many videos this one was the most informative, particularly with peoples comments. I did 2x RÅSUNDA desks (managed to just get a couple since they discontinued them) and here is how I went/useful tips 1. I used 150 grit sand paper with a sanding block for initial stain sand. I did research and found that you shouldn't go finer than 100-150 otherwise it doesn't open up the pores of the wood as good, resulting in a potentially blotchy stain. The ikea hardwoods are european oak and don't require a pre-stain but my step 2 apparently helps. 2. Wipe up all the dust with a rag. Then I used a 50/50 mix of water and methylated spirits/Denatured alcohol (called different in each country). I just dampened a rag and applied (do not pool it, just a wipe). The alcohol removes any potential oils that might have penetrated the wood that your sanding didnt get rid of which could cause blotchy stain. The water does 2 things; 1. raises the grain which will reduce the roughness after light sanding when applying either a water based stain or poly (i used oil based stain and water based poly). 2. Opens up pores to accept more stain and reduce any potential blotchy stain. Wait until it completely dries. 3. I very lightly (e.g. with no weight on sand block) sanded with the 150 grit to remove any raised grains. Wiped off dust with rag. 4. Using a foam brush to apply oil based stain (I used Walnut and had to pour stain into a container so foam brush could fit). I found the foam brush applies a nice thick coating of stain in one wipe. Apply and after 5min wiped off with couple rags. This is the most satisfying part of the project seeing the nice colour after wiping off the excess. I was concerned at first that the stain was dripping to the other side of desk and would make the other side darker when doing stain there, but it didn't luckily, however try and keep drips in check. After 30min wait I flipped tables and stained the other side. I let them both dry for 24 hours to ensure it was completely dry before applying poly. 5. I applied a satin water based poly with a soft tipped synthetic brush which gave me much more control of bubbles than a foam brush (I tried both). I applied 5 coats each side. I sanded very lightly with 220 grit. You have to be very light since the poly is only a thin layer and you only want to 1. remove any peaks and 2. rough it up a little to create a mechanical bond between each poly coat, but not remove the poly coat from excessive sanding. I made sure I had a rag on hand to wipe any drips from the underside. I did 5 coats on top and sides first. Waiting 2 hours between each coat, then flip and did another 5 coats on bottom. All came out awesome. Did not sand on final coat since I was happy with it, but if youre after a super smooth glass like finish (particularly if you are using high gloss poly) then there are 2 ways. 1. Can use a 1200-1500 grit sandpaper to smooth then hand buff with automotive wax. 2. Machine buff with abrasive wax. I did not do this so can't share experiences. For 2 x 1.86m (6.1 feet) it took 500ml (16.9 ounces) to stain both sides but since I used a foam brush it applied very liberally. For the Poly to apply 5 coats on both sides of the 2 desks took a little under 1L (33.8 ounces). Hope this all helps :)
I've had the chance to use this table a couple of times now. It's fun to whip out in front of people:) I can see what people are talking about when they say the legs are delicate, but they're design to support a "mostly" vertical load, not be torqued from the side or pushed back into place. If you just let the table open or close on it's own and don't force anything, it works great th-cam.com/users/postUgkxyFZUPFEey-PuqsPMxqaykBhgA1LWxFHh Once it's set up, it's pretty solid. My only gripe would probably be related to the clamps provided. They're not the highest quality. They do the job, so no big deal, but they could be better. All in all, pretty cool gadget.
After staining and finishing the top and sides, did you wait until all surfaces were completely dry before moving on to the underside for the same steps or did you flip over and do the underside at the same time? My worry is that if I flip over the desk and work on the same steps while it's not dry, the surfaces that are resting on the saw horse will have their finish ruined due to contact - but at the same time, this would double the time it takes.
I actually did the bottom first because I had the same worry as you. I stained the bottom, with only one coat of Poly, and gave it a day to dry before continuing with the top and sides. But you could definitely do the top and bottom within a few hours if you started with the bottom first. The stain and poly dry pretty quick so I wouldn’t be worried about making marks on the bottom.
just one thing to consider. it is better not to use cloth to remove the dust, but to use the vacuum since with the cloth, you just rub the dust into the table.
I am completely new to diy wood projects your video and finished product was amazing , so I have a few questions.How would I know I have sanded enough, how lightly or heavily are you sanding? How much sanding would I need for brand new out of the box Gerton table top ? What grit are you using at each step, before stain, after stain and after each protective coating? I know it’s lot to ask, but any pointers would be really appreciated. Thank you for the video it is a great base line.
Matt Lydon yeah, I have seen two other tones and colors of the same desks but at least with the natural tone tabletop you have the ability to stain it what ever tone you’d like
This video was really helpful 👌🏿🙌🏿 I wish I could show you guys a picture of my desk. It came out real good. This was my first time trying this out. Tips. -Sand very lightly, so as not to lose the color from the stain. I used the 250 grit, pressing really hard and lost some darkness to my espresso stain. -Be patient and let the seal dry after each coat That’s all!! Have fun!! 👍🏿
Ikea Karlby kitchen countertop already comes in a dark walnut. Get the longer 98" one vs 74" one (width is about 24-25"). Just add some Ikea STOCKARYD linseed oil for a nice sheen. Where did you get the awesome Millennium Falcon cutaway T-Shirt?
Thanks for this, some great tips in here. I'm looking into revamping my current desk setup and considering doing this same thing... How about you do a full desk setup review of your own? I've been watching a lot of them lately and it looks like you have a nice home workplace.
Thanks for watching, Doug! I’ve actually been wanting to do a desk setup but the side my desk is in, unfortunately, isn’t the best looking. So I’ve got a little more work to do
Great tutorial!!! quick question, can i clean the surface with a damp cloth to absorb more dust or does it have to be dry? would it affect the proces? how did you do it?
Afshin Mostofi I’d go with 220 if those are your two options. I’d avoid using an electric sander unless you have precision hands - otherwise you can easily sand down too much and create valleys and bumps in the board. But if that’s the look you want then go for it! I just use mine for my computer desk and running a mouse over that isn’t super fun.
I noticed you used the 236ml can of poly, but had the 946ml can of stain. Did you use all the stain? I just picked up my stain and I'm wondering if I should go buy another can before I start the project.
I didn't see you apply poly to the underside. Did you finish multiple coats on the top side first and then apply multiple coats to the underside? Or did you alternate multiple times?
@@TrentonMichael oh okay, thanks. Right now I'm gonna check if a small store near me has a foam brush for my stain. If not then I'll go to home depot later today.
@@TrentonMichael quick question. What can I do if I don't have an area with good air ventilation to do the staining? Since it needs to sit for hours in a "well ventilated area". If I put it outside debris and bugs may get on top of it.
Victor Cabrera if you want, you can shorter the process down and finish it all in an hour or two. I could have done the same with mine but I was just being overly thorough. Do you have a window you can leave open with a fan blowing the fumes out?
Thanks for the great video! I want to do this with the karlby countertop from IKEA. They sold out on the Walnut so I want to stain the oak (also gives better protection). I would appreciate if you could tell if me if I got it right: So once I sand with the 180, I stain the top and sides, let it sit for 20 minutes, flip and stain the other side...then let that dry overnight. From there I repeat stain if I want darker. For the PE (day after last stain), it's sand with 220, PE coat, wait 5mins, then flip to do other side. Wait 5 minutes, flip back counter again and repeat with coat#2, then whole thing again for coat 3. sand, PE coat #2, sand again, PE coat #3. Lastly, some people is mineral spirits. What's that for? (Sorry for long comment, I would like a confirmation that I get it before doing this DIY). Thanks again for the really useful video!!!!!
Hey, late reply but I feel like I should warn you. Doing this process the was you're describing will ruin the Karlby. Firstly, you should sand with 220 grit for a smoother finish. Second, only sand, stain, and poly what has oak veneer on it, which is only the top and sides. The bottom does not have really wood on it so the moisture from stain+poly will ruin the particle board. Third, you must wait longer between coats than what you're describing. For stain, wait for it to dry completely before you start your poly, or you'll get very poor results. Give it as last 12 hours to be totally safe I'd say. Then for poly, apply first coat and give it a good 2 hours to dry before applying the second. I would also give a very light sanding between all costs of poly, but not before your first coat. I would give the second coat 2-3 hours to dry as well. Then give a very light sanding with 220 or 320 grit sand paper between the second and third coat for maximum smoothness. Once all your coats of poly are applied, you need to give the table adequate time to cure before using it. I used a waterbased poly that says it reaches maximum hardness after three days. I started using my Gerton desk about 6 days after my final coat, and the finish still scratched with just my fingernail. So I would give as long as you can before use. Preferably 2-3 weeks to be safe. All the best, good luck With your project.
@@TheAngryPeanuts I'll definitely follow your advice. Took a while but I'm only getting the countertop now. I've another question. The Wulnut Karlby is ~$30 more expensive than the Birch and~$60 more expensive than the oak. Since I'm staining it to a dark colour (like this video) wouldn't it be better the get the cheaper lighter color wood? I researched that the wood quality is not significantly different if using as a desk. That way, the money I save on the counter top covers the cost of the stain and poly.
My final coat of varnish has broad brushstrokes. Questions: 1. Did you apply the final varnish with a brush or was it cloth? I see you doing it with a cloth? 2. After final coat of varnish, do you sand once again afterwards? Thanks
Just to be safe, I’d do a quick sanding on the underside of the table. You don’t need to vacuum and dust - a simple wipe down with a cloth will do just fine.
1) so when you apply the polyurethane after every coat you sand it down? 2) any other brands you recommend? i dont have a home depot where i live i only have a lowes. 3) would you need multiple cans of the stain for 2 74in countertops? 4) can i use gel stain for a laminate countertop? 5) can you stain the linnmon tabletop?
Did you stain the entire table all at once or did you wait for one side to dry befor you flipped it over onto the legs. If you didn't wait, would it hurt the stain if it wasnt fully dried and I stained the other side
Louis Padilla i did each side separately. I’d wait maybe 30 minutes before flipping if you wanted to move the process along quicker. You should be fine then.
I had an issue with applying second coat of poly. It left bubbles and little imperfections. My question is should I sand and re-apply a third coat of poly? Also there is a 3x faster poly I discovered afterwards that is thicker and works as 3 coats with one application.
Your video inspired us to do the same. We are waiting for our supplies to arrive. However I am very curious to know about your monitors. Will you be able to share the details?
If I do not want to stain the Karlby, can I just use the polyurethane to protect the Karlby countertop? Also do I still have to sand it first before applying the polyurethane?
Really love how it turned out, unfortunately, i can't get this brand of stain in my area. Instead, I will be using Watco Black walnut danish oil on my Gerton tabletop. Has everyone heard about the brand Watco and tried their Black Walnut stain? or any other brand that can create the same effect as the video?
Probably gonna plan to do this soon but without the staining since I already ordered the darker version I expected the table to come in feeling pretty smooth, but am a bit dissapointed its actually somewhat rough
Since I have the Karlby countertop, I have seen others use a wipe on single poly coating without any sanding since it has a veneer finish already. What do you think?
Thanks for the video. Am about to do this. Do I need to buy a random orbital sander to quicken the sanding? Or is hand sanding sufficient? How long did the sanding take for you? Thanks!
For this specific project it’s best to only hand sand. An orbital sander will quickly sand deep into the wood, and in various spots, cause a bunch of uneven dips and grooves. Sanding it by hand was not that bad. It took 5 to 10 minutes for my desk. Good luck! Let me know if you have any other questions!
is it 24 hours between coats of poly? I got oil based cause it didn't say whether I was supposed to use water based or oil based. Everywhere online says to wait 24 hours to use, but is it also 24 hours between each coat?
I just waited 15 hours after staining before I applied the poly coats. I only waited about 5-10 minutes between the three poly coat applications. I wish I could remember if I was using oil or water based poly. It seemed to dry in an instant though...if yours is drying fast then I’d say wait 5-10 minutes between coats. If it’s taking longer to dry then I’d just wait a bit and check it with your fingers every so often to see how long it’s taking to dry. I hope that helps
hey man, i noticed you didnt use prestain, did you notice any blotchiness or was this not a problem on the gerton? i finally got the gerton after waiting 3 weeks for it to restock and im going to do the same espresso stain tomorrow
No blotchiness that I can detect. You should be fine, especially if you have a brand new tabletop that hasn’t been used. I used mine for over a year before applying stain but by then I had developed sweat marks from my mouse hand. That’s the only dark area that looks somewhat blotchy...but even then I barely notice it after it’s been stained.
Thanks for your video. I just did my own desk with oil-based polyurethane two weeks ago but now it still smells. Did you have any problem with that? How did you get rid of the smell?
Thanks for this video. I went with the Gerton based on this video. Thought about the Karlby since it was already stained but 1) Didn't need a 6' desk and 2) I figure I can spend $20 for stain and polyurethane and still get the same effect for less money. Question though, how many hours would you estimate needed for this project from first sanding to install?
Honestly, if you don’t care about minor imperfections, I bet you could do the whole thing in a couple of hours. The biggest waiting point is just waiting for the stain to dry before the poly coat is applied.
Did your desk smell strongly of polyurethane after? I just finished mine a couple of days ago and it still has a strong smell. Do you know how long it may last?
HELP! Just bought IKEA KARLBY. I like the color so I’m not looking to stain it, but do I need to add polyurethane for any reason? Besides sanding it down to get the tabletop feeling smooth, what else do I need to do?
How did the stain the bottom if it's underneath? Did you wait for the top to dry, flip if over and do the bottom each time? Or did you just get under the desk and do it?
@@TrentonMichael This may be a dumb question... but how did you avoid the edges being... double stained? I mean, if you stain the top and sides, and then the bottom when it's done.. wouldn't that edge get some extra stain on it and be extra dark?
Michael Mannucci I honestly wouldn’t worry too much about it. It’s pretty easy to keep the sides separated when staining. Even if you do get some stain on the sides, it blends pretty well when you stain the sides later on
Sorry to take so long to reply. I've been out of town this month. I wouldn't get too hung up on which sanding paper to use...as long as you're able to sand down your table, you'll be just fine to apply your coat.
with that first 180 sanding, did you sand it till completely smooth? or did you smooth it out when applying the polyurethane? Also great video, keep up the good work!
Ive begun the Stain Process and im satisfied with 1 coat so im waiting for it to dry now. How often should I apply coats of polyurethane since I need to do it 3 times
In your video it looks like you had the Gerton which looks to be somewhat natural whereas the Karbly has veneer coat on it. Would the process for the Karbly be somewhat different then and if so do you have any pointers? i.e. more sanding etc P.S. great video! 👌🏼
tushar gupta honestly, I am not too sure. Sanding is mostly there to open up the wood grain to absorb liquids. If you feel like the wood seems to be in a spot where it can absorb, then I’d say to skip sanding and move forward with the polyurethane.
I was thinking of trying this out myself but I had one question that I couldn't really find a straight answer to. This time of year where I live it gets very hot and humid and I was wondering if that would effect the stain or the poly finish since I was planning to do this in the garage.
I’m sorry for the late response. I am not sure if you’ve already completed this project but I don’t think you’d have any issues. Maybe just allow extra drying time of the stain.
Hey :) this is exactly 100% what I was looking for, but I have a question, I have seen people with really kinda super reflective glossy finish, is there a step in there where that is added, do you know what makes a desk glossy and shiny?
For anyone trying this, just know tack cloth, and the cheesecloth he shows are two entirely separate things. Tack cloth is what you want
Great video, Trenton. A few notes for anyone going through comments thinking about doing this themselves- this from someone with very little wood finishing experience before going into this project but has since fallen down very deep rabbit holes on woodworking forums, etc.
1. Maybe it wasn't shown in the video, but make sure you're doing at least one coat of poly on the bottom if you're planning on using this long term. This is real wood so it has the potential to warp, etc. over time - a finish helps stabilize in this regard and you don't want the different sides to warp differently. One on the bottom seems to be considered sufficient.
2. Use a wood conditioner or pre-stain. This is going to help get a uniform stain without blotching. Especially as this is a beech tabletop - a wood with a reputation of staining inconsistently. There is a This Old House video that is one of the first results when searching TH-cam for 'how to finish a table' that illustrates the importance of this.
3. In this video a water based poly is used with an oil based stain (i think.) It is generally recommended that you remain consistently on oil/oil or water/water.
4. Poly can take ~30 days to 'cure' even after it has dried/the odor has dissipated. It is considered OK for 'light use' when it hasn't fully cured but I've read some folks comment that long term, weight from their monitor arm mount holding 2+ monitors messed up the finish underneath because they didn't let the poly cure. Now, if that spot is covered by your monitor arm anyway - who cares - but something to consider. I do think it is kinda funny that a lot of the tutorials for finishing this desk in the 'gamer' space have a way abbreviated timeline than a lot of the oldheads on woodworking forums.
5. From experience, consider thinning your poly if you go the oil route. Makes things a lot easier. Either thin it to up to 50/50 with mineral spirits or just buy a 'wipe on' Poly to start with.
All in all this was a fun project and I am very happy with my desk, and the whole journey basically started with stumbling on this video. Thanks!
Should be a pinned comment. Thank you very much
Wait, what about the fumes? Can I do this inside an apartment?
@adamp503 just open the window?
what about the ikea Karlby wood veneer table tops? I've read somewhere that mineral spirits shouldn't be used on wood veneers cause it can sink in and dissolve(?) the glue under the veener?! Because in wipe-on-poly as I've read, it's just already mixed poly with mineral spirits, and normal polyurethane is better to be mixed 50:50 with mineral spirits to get the best out of it for multiple layers. So for me it sounds like there is no way around mineral Spirits? Did anyone tried it on like 3mm wood veener?
@@sasso3844I've been holding off on this for the exact same reason. Did you end up trying it out? How did it go?
Hey, this is a great explainer that I'm actually following right now. A couple of addenda that I've learned by doing this process myself:
1. The stain/PE coats needs a minimum room temp of 55F. If you're doing this in an unheated garage, you might consider running a space heater to warm things up.
2. You might consider putting on a wood conditioner before the stain. This makes the stain more even. Depends on what you want the finished product to look like.
3. The stain instructions suggests stepping up through more sanding intervals - 120, 150, 180, 220
4. Match the stain types to the PE finish. E.g. pair an oil-based stain with an oil-based finish.
5. The dust mask doesn't protect you from the stain/finish fumes. For that, you need a respirator with organic vapor cartridges.
6. Don't repeat my mistake and sand with rougher sandpaper between PE coats. I thought I could get rid of some bumps with 150 grit and oooh boy was that a mistake. It ate through the coat AND the stain. My bad.
Please don't take any of this as criticism. This project is a great idea, just passing along some things I learned along the way.
Eli, I appreciate the feedback. All of these are great points you’ve made. Sometimes when you’re trying to figure out a DIY project but also find yourself filming at the same time, a few things are overlooked. I’m going to pin your comment as you’ve brought some great knowledge to the video. Thanks again for the input.
@@TrentonMichael yep! And thanks for putting this video out in the first place. I'm putting my last coat on the desk tomorrow.
@@pnwmeditations What happens if you use a water-based PE over hardwax oil or oil stain? I ask because my desktop came pretreated w/ hardwax oil and just wanted to apply water based PE to avoid the toxins/smells of oil
@@NurseAnesthesia1 I couldn't tell you - I just followed the advice of the Ask This Old House Guys. I suppose you could sand off the treatment, but that would be a lot of elbow grease. I sympathize with you though, the oil-based PE treatment does have an odor that lingers for a couple of weeks.
This is really helpful. Quick question: what did you mean by the “Step Up” step for the sandpaper?
Dude I pretty much just finished my table top with your instructions. Appreciate the help buddy. I stained mine dark walnut & got a butcher block piece from Home Depot. Came out awesome.
Do you have a video ? Thinking about doing the exact same thing ... butcher block from HD and staining with dark walnut ... now that I see this espresso look I’m stuck between the two stains 😩
I had the idea of doing this - came to TH-cam and found the perfect tutorial. You are the man! Thank you.
Nice! I'm glad you enjoyed, Jono!
I was in the market for the Ikea Karlby but 74” is too long for my small apartment. I didn’t want to deal with cutting it so I went to Home Depot, Got a 50” butchers block, stained and poly’d following your video, and it looks amazing! Thank you for this!
rivrtheories literally was going to buy the karlby... also too big for apartment and IKEA isn’t offering cutting services right now (plus wouldn’t be delivered for a month). Went to Home Depot bought the 50” birch top, and came back to this video to see if someone asked whether you sand after the final coat. Haha living the same life!
Michael Kincaid Nice! It will come out amazing! I didn’t sand the last coat btw only in between the previous coats :)
Very nice! I'm curious...how much did that block of wood cost from Home Depot?
Trenton Michael $109 for the butchers block. staining, poly and sand paper was $26 :)
@@TrentonMichael Yup he nailed it! $109 for the butchers block and about $25 for 8oz poly, 8oz stain, gloves, & sandpaper
Information dense, easy to watch. Awesome video man. Looking at the gertom myself.
Thanks, my friend! The Gerton is great; you’ll love it.
The quality of your video is insane, you did such a great job with this!
Thanks a lot, man! I’m glad you enjoyed it!
For a smoother feeling desk, start with 80 grit, then 120 and finish with 220 grit. Super smooth.
can you elaborate on that?
@@jameshernandez1451You'll want to sand the entire desktop (edges and underside too) with a coarse 80 grit sandpaper first, going with the grain. (The Gerton tabletops tend to be a bit rough around the edges straight out of the box. Mine had some rough spots and a slight 2mm dip about 3cm wide running down half the length of the desk. The 80 grit helped shape those away.) *Wipe or blow away the sawdust after each sanding.* After removing imperfections with 80, then switch to 120 and finish with 220. 220 grit is a more fine sandpaper and leaves a smoother feeling surface. Before I sanded, I used a router to round off the edges of the desktop to give it a better look and make it easier for sanding the sides.
underrated channel. thanks for this, I'm gonna buy a Gerton and do this.
Thanks, meetchal! It’s a solid desk - you’ll be very happy
just got the 8 oz polyurethane can and worried it wouldn't be enough because that can is TINY, lol. Then I remembered this video and saw that you got 3 coats out of it so I calmed down quick. Overreaction? Sure, but such is life.
Side note, I'm willing to bet I'm not the only one who came to this video to finish up their quarantine desk 😅
Haha, that can was BARELY enough for three coats. The last coat was spread super thin
I guess it would be enough to do only the upper side and the sides ?
How do you not have at least 500k subs? I found your channel recently, and I LOVE IT!!!
VaCLoser ah thanks, my friend! I’ve been so busy with work that I haven’t been home enough to make any more content. But I do love doing it!
@@TrentonMichael keep it up! 🔥
Definitely I’ll follow your instructions!! Well done brother!!
Alex Sobera thank you, buddy! It was a super slick process! Good luck! 👍
Alex Sobera how did it turn out, man?
Thank you for the awesome video! After looking around for a new solid wood table top for a while I think you've convinced me that this is the way to go.
Mine has been very solid!
When you were staining how long did you wait before flipping and doing the other side? I’m about to start this exact same project. Also, how long did you wait between coats of polyurethane?
I'm sorry to miss this comment, I only waited maybe 20 mins for the stain to dry and 5 minutes in between poly coats.
Trenton Michael thought you’re supposed to wait two hours after staining per instructions on can?
Ty for this video, I've been using a Karlby for almost a year now without doing anything to it other than occasionally spraying some wood polish on it, but I want to protect it more since I've gotten a small ding and once small stain on it and dont want more
Same! I had mine for 2 years and it had collected some pretty bad stains from my sweaty hands during gaming sessions. Had to do something to protect it!
Karlby is not a solid wood isnt it? Its veneered? What would happen if I sand it?
This is such a professional video
Your underrated bro
Thanks a lot, my guy!
Why can't more people just be short and straight to the point instead of making these 10 - 20 minute videos. I find that anywhere between 3 - 5 minutes is the sweet spot. Instead of a bunch of vlogging garbage, just get to the point! Can't TH-camrs try and present more professionally vs random shit being thrown at?
Doug Cannon they need to get it above 10 mins so they can get more ads on the vid
They do have bills to pay you know they have to make money
After watching many videos this one was the most informative, particularly with peoples comments. I did 2x RÅSUNDA desks (managed to just get a couple since they discontinued them) and here is how I went/useful tips
1. I used 150 grit sand paper with a sanding block for initial stain sand. I did research and found that you shouldn't go finer than 100-150 otherwise it doesn't open up the pores of the wood as good, resulting in a potentially blotchy stain. The ikea hardwoods are european oak and don't require a pre-stain but my step 2 apparently helps.
2. Wipe up all the dust with a rag. Then I used a 50/50 mix of water and methylated spirits/Denatured alcohol (called different in each country). I just dampened a rag and applied (do not pool it, just a wipe). The alcohol removes any potential oils that might have penetrated the wood that your sanding didnt get rid of which could cause blotchy stain. The water does 2 things; 1. raises the grain which will reduce the roughness after light sanding when applying either a water based stain or poly (i used oil based stain and water based poly). 2. Opens up pores to accept more stain and reduce any potential blotchy stain. Wait until it completely dries.
3. I very lightly (e.g. with no weight on sand block) sanded with the 150 grit to remove any raised grains. Wiped off dust with rag.
4. Using a foam brush to apply oil based stain (I used Walnut and had to pour stain into a container so foam brush could fit). I found the foam brush applies a nice thick coating of stain in one wipe. Apply and after 5min wiped off with couple rags. This is the most satisfying part of the project seeing the nice colour after wiping off the excess. I was concerned at first that the stain was dripping to the other side of desk and would make the other side darker when doing stain there, but it didn't luckily, however try and keep drips in check. After 30min wait I flipped tables and stained the other side. I let them both dry for 24 hours to ensure it was completely dry before applying poly.
5. I applied a satin water based poly with a soft tipped synthetic brush which gave me much more control of bubbles than a foam brush (I tried both). I applied 5 coats each side. I sanded very lightly with 220 grit. You have to be very light since the poly is only a thin layer and you only want to 1. remove any peaks and 2. rough it up a little to create a mechanical bond between each poly coat, but not remove the poly coat from excessive sanding. I made sure I had a rag on hand to wipe any drips from the underside.
I did 5 coats on top and sides first. Waiting 2 hours between each coat, then flip and did another 5 coats on bottom. All came out awesome. Did not sand on final coat since I was happy with it, but if youre after a super smooth glass like finish (particularly if you are using high gloss poly) then there are 2 ways. 1. Can use a 1200-1500 grit sandpaper to smooth then hand buff with automotive wax. 2. Machine buff with abrasive wax. I did not do this so can't share experiences.
For 2 x 1.86m (6.1 feet) it took 500ml (16.9 ounces) to stain both sides but since I used a foam brush it applied very liberally. For the Poly to apply 5 coats on both sides of the 2 desks took a little under 1L (33.8 ounces). Hope this all helps :)
Thank you for this
my son just got one and how to make look good well thanks to you father and son project team work
I've had the chance to use this table a couple of times now. It's fun to whip out in front of people:) I can see what people are talking about when they say the legs are delicate, but they're design to support a "mostly" vertical load, not be torqued from the side or pushed back into place. If you just let the table open or close on it's own and don't force anything, it works great th-cam.com/users/postUgkxyFZUPFEey-PuqsPMxqaykBhgA1LWxFHh Once it's set up, it's pretty solid. My only gripe would probably be related to the clamps provided. They're not the highest quality. They do the job, so no big deal, but they could be better. All in all, pretty cool gadget.
some wood conditioner would have been great to add before staining
I think I want to do this to mine! I wish I had found this when I first got it!
I'm about to do the same project during the weekend! Thank you for this! I hope it'll turn out well.
I hope it helps! Good luck on the project
3:14 am in Toronto, applied to three jobs but looking at this gave me great excitement for an at home project while we’re locked in. Thanks so much.
After staining and finishing the top and sides, did you wait until all surfaces were completely dry before moving on to the underside for the same steps or did you flip over and do the underside at the same time? My worry is that if I flip over the desk and work on the same steps while it's not dry, the surfaces that are resting on the saw horse will have their finish ruined due to contact - but at the same time, this would double the time it takes.
I actually did the bottom first because I had the same worry as you. I stained the bottom, with only one coat of Poly, and gave it a day to dry before continuing with the top and sides. But you could definitely do the top and bottom within a few hours if you started with the bottom first. The stain and poly dry pretty quick so I wouldn’t be worried about making marks on the bottom.
I’m about to do this on my Karlby countertop over the weekend as well, wish me luck! It looks amazing btw, good job.
Rod Urbina let us know how that went! I want to do the same!
@@artwerkmedia8616 How'd it go guys, I'm going to do the same this weekend
just one thing to consider. it is better not to use cloth to remove the dust, but to use the vacuum since with the cloth, you just rub the dust into the table.
I am completely new to diy wood projects your video and finished product was amazing , so I have a few questions.How would I know I have sanded enough, how lightly or heavily are you sanding? How much sanding would I need for brand new out of the box Gerton table top ? What grit are you using at each step, before stain, after stain and after each protective coating? I know it’s lot to ask, but any pointers would be really appreciated. Thank you for the video it is a great base line.
Great work! Definitely going to follow these instructions. I just bought the table and was shocked that it wasn't stained like it was at the store.
Matt Lydon yeah, I have seen two other tones and colors of the same desks but at least with the natural tone tabletop you have the ability to stain it what ever tone you’d like
Nice video, thanks. What did you use to rub down the stain? One of those old cloths? Do they not stick to the table since the stain is basically wet?
This video was really helpful 👌🏿🙌🏿
I wish I could show you guys a picture of my desk. It came out real good. This was my first time trying this out.
Tips.
-Sand very lightly, so as not to lose the color from the stain.
I used the 250 grit, pressing really hard and lost some darkness to my espresso stain.
-Be patient and let the seal dry after each coat
That’s all!!
Have fun!! 👍🏿
I’m glad to hear it went well!
Ikea Karlby kitchen countertop already comes in a dark walnut. Get the longer 98" one vs 74" one (width is about 24-25").
Just add some Ikea STOCKARYD linseed oil for a nice sheen.
Where did you get the awesome Millennium Falcon cutaway T-Shirt?
I'm really impatient, can I leave the underside unstained? I mean who'll see it? hmmm dunno...all that extra work though.
Mr M the world is your oyster, my guy! At the very least, I’d say just stain the bottom layer and skip the polyurethane application.
I did not do this once and it was always annoying at the finish was much rougher. Even though you won't see it, you'll always feel it...
@@DerKatzeSonne nyaa
Thanks for this, some great tips in here. I'm looking into revamping my current desk setup and considering doing this same thing... How about you do a full desk setup review of your own? I've been watching a lot of them lately and it looks like you have a nice home workplace.
Thanks for watching, Doug! I’ve actually been wanting to do a desk setup but the side my desk is in, unfortunately, isn’t the best looking. So I’ve got a little more work to do
Great tutorial!!! quick question, can i clean the surface with a damp cloth to absorb more dust or does it have to be dry? would it affect the proces? how did you do it?
Great vid and thanks for the tips will be giving this a go!
After staining, did you sand with 180 again or did you go with the 220? Also are you using the 220 to sand in between coats of the polyurethane?
Also, Would you or would not recommend using an electric sander?
Afshin Mostofi I’d go with 220 if those are your two options. I’d avoid using an electric sander unless you have precision hands - otherwise you can easily sand down too much and create valleys and bumps in the board. But if that’s the look you want then go for it! I just use mine for my computer desk and running a mouse over that isn’t super fun.
I noticed you used the 236ml can of poly, but had the 946ml can of stain. Did you use all the stain? I just picked up my stain and I'm wondering if I should go buy another can before I start the project.
I still have a ton of stain left over. If anything I could have gotten a larger can of poly. I ran out after three coats.
Very nice video! I'll hopefully try this soon!
Thanks! GL! Let me know if you have any questions
I didn't see you apply poly to the underside. Did you finish multiple coats on the top side first and then apply multiple coats to the underside? Or did you alternate multiple times?
I did 3 coats of poly on top but only one coat of poly on the bottom. I did the bottom first thing before I began the top.
@@TrentonMichael Thank you for the answer! How is the poly holding up after a year?
Tofu it’s the exact same as the first day I installed it. Holding up very well!
Wish I had saw this before going to home depot. Only got a 220 grit sandpaper block. Also need one of those masks
Victor Cabrera oh 220 is plenty fine. No worries there. Just use a shirt over your face for a mask 😷 let me know how it goes!
@@TrentonMichael oh okay, thanks. Right now I'm gonna check if a small store near me has a foam brush for my stain. If not then I'll go to home depot later today.
@@TrentonMichael quick question. What can I do if I don't have an area with good air ventilation to do the staining? Since it needs to sit for hours in a "well ventilated area".
If I put it outside debris and bugs may get on top of it.
Victor Cabrera if you want, you can shorter the process down and finish it all in an hour or two. I could have done the same with mine but I was just being overly thorough. Do you have a window you can leave open with a fan blowing the fumes out?
@@TrentonMichael unfortunately no. I'm probably going to be doing it in my driveway tonight. I don't have many options.
Might have missed it but how long should we wait in between coatings? Or can we just go ahead and reapply the coat once it seems dry?
I’d wait maybe 5-10 mins between coats.
Wanted to do this during quarantine but number 5 on the list was impossible to find
Ah, the smell wasn’t so bad actually. As long as you do it all in a well-ventilated area, you’ll be fine.
Thanks for the great video! I want to do this with the karlby countertop from IKEA. They sold out on the Walnut so I want to stain the oak (also gives better protection). I would appreciate if you could tell if me if I got it right: So once I sand with the 180, I stain the top and sides, let it sit for 20 minutes, flip and stain the other side...then let that dry overnight. From there I repeat stain if I want darker. For the PE (day after last stain), it's sand with 220, PE coat, wait 5mins, then flip to do other side. Wait 5 minutes, flip back counter again and repeat with coat#2, then whole thing again for coat 3. sand, PE coat #2, sand again, PE coat #3. Lastly, some people is mineral spirits. What's that for? (Sorry for long comment, I would like a confirmation that I get it before doing this DIY). Thanks again for the really useful video!!!!!
Hey, late reply but I feel like I should warn you. Doing this process the was you're describing will ruin the Karlby. Firstly, you should sand with 220 grit for a smoother finish. Second, only sand, stain, and poly what has oak veneer on it, which is only the top and sides. The bottom does not have really wood on it so the moisture from stain+poly will ruin the particle board. Third, you must wait longer between coats than what you're describing. For stain, wait for it to dry completely before you start your poly, or you'll get very poor results. Give it as last 12 hours to be totally safe I'd say. Then for poly, apply first coat and give it a good 2 hours to dry before applying the second. I would also give a very light sanding between all costs of poly, but not before your first coat. I would give the second coat 2-3 hours to dry as well. Then give a very light sanding with 220 or 320 grit sand paper between the second and third coat for maximum smoothness. Once all your coats of poly are applied, you need to give the table adequate time to cure before using it. I used a waterbased poly that says it reaches maximum hardness after three days. I started using my Gerton desk about 6 days after my final coat, and the finish still scratched with just my fingernail. So I would give as long as you can before use. Preferably 2-3 weeks to be safe. All the best, good luck With your project.
@@TheAngryPeanuts I'll definitely follow your advice. Took a while but I'm only getting the countertop now. I've another question. The Wulnut Karlby is ~$30 more expensive than the Birch and~$60 more expensive than the oak. Since I'm staining it to a dark colour (like this video) wouldn't it be better the get the cheaper lighter color wood? I researched that the wood quality is not significantly different if using as a desk. That way, the money I save on the counter top covers the cost of the stain and poly.
My final coat of varnish has broad brushstrokes. Questions:
1. Did you apply the final varnish with a brush or was it cloth? I see you doing it with a cloth?
2. After final coat of varnish, do you sand once again afterwards?
Thanks
Dude THANK YOU for this video. It’s going to help so much 🙌🙌🙌
Of course! I hope your project went or will go well!
Do I have to sanding under the countertop? And Do I have to vacuum the table before staining? Is it enough just wiping out by cloths after sanding?
Just to be safe, I’d do a quick sanding on the underside of the table. You don’t need to vacuum and dust - a simple wipe down with a cloth will do just fine.
1) so when you apply the polyurethane after every coat you sand it down?
2) any other brands you recommend? i dont have a home depot where i live i only have a lowes.
3) would you need multiple cans of the stain for 2 74in countertops?
4) can i use gel stain for a laminate countertop?
5) can you stain the linnmon tabletop?
Did you stain the entire table all at once or did you wait for one side to dry befor you flipped it over onto the legs. If you didn't wait, would it hurt the stain if it wasnt fully dried and I stained the other side
Louis Padilla i did each side separately. I’d wait maybe 30 minutes before flipping if you wanted to move the process along quicker. You should be fine then.
Amazing one of the first youtuber I seen reply to every comment.
I try my best for you, CeeTry!
I had an issue with applying second coat of poly. It left bubbles and little imperfections. My question is should I sand and re-apply a third coat of poly? Also there is a 3x faster poly I discovered afterwards that is thicker and works as 3 coats with one application.
Trust me, this video definitely helps!
Thanks for video mate! Helpful!
I never would've intuited the tack cloth/cheese cloth...🤘🏼
You earned a sub. Keep up the helpful vids!
Awe, thank you for watching :)
Your video inspired us to do the same. We are waiting for our supplies to arrive. However I am very curious to know about your monitors. Will you be able to share the details?
How solid is the gerton? I’ve got a triple monitor mount I want to place in the middle. I’m afraid it could start to warp the table top.
If I do not want to stain the Karlby, can I just use the polyurethane to protect the Karlby countertop? Also do I still have to sand it first before applying the polyurethane?
Absolutely you can apply a poly coat. No sanding needed either
If I got a table pre stained should I still sand it down to apply the poly? A lot of colour seems to come of just want to make sure before I continue
Really love how it turned out, unfortunately, i can't get this brand of stain in my area. Instead, I will be using Watco Black walnut danish oil on my Gerton tabletop. Has everyone heard about the brand Watco and tried their Black Walnut stain? or any other brand that can create the same effect as the video?
Probably gonna plan to do this soon but without the staining since I already ordered the darker version
I expected the table to come in feeling pretty smooth, but am a bit dissapointed its actually somewhat rough
How much was the wood counter top? Also what length did you go with?
I have the Gerton countertop from Ikea. It cost around $100 USD and measures 61 x 29 1/2 inches.
Do you need to stain it or can you just apply polyurethane?
You don’t necessarily need to stain it first. You can add poly as just a protective layer for the wood
What are you using as the “legs”/storage under your desk???
These are the Alex drawers from Ikea
I saw that you have 2 metal plates on the bottom side of the table. What is their purpose? :)
I believe those are to mount saw horse and/or various other style of legs that IKEA sells separately.
@@TrentonMichael sweet! Thanks a lot 😊
Since I have the Karlby countertop, I have seen others use a wipe on single poly coating without any sanding since it has a veneer finish already. What do you think?
Thanks for the video. Am about to do this. Do I need to buy a random orbital sander to quicken the sanding? Or is hand sanding sufficient? How long did the sanding take for you? Thanks!
For this specific project it’s best to only hand sand. An orbital sander will quickly sand deep into the wood, and in various spots, cause a bunch of uneven dips and grooves. Sanding it by hand was not that bad. It took 5 to 10 minutes for my desk. Good luck! Let me know if you have any other questions!
Thank you! Trying it out now!
is it 24 hours between coats of poly? I got oil based cause it didn't say whether I was supposed to use water based or oil based. Everywhere online says to wait 24 hours to use, but is it also 24 hours between each coat?
I just waited 15 hours after staining before I applied the poly coats. I only waited about 5-10 minutes between the three poly coat applications. I wish I could remember if I was using oil or water based poly. It seemed to dry in an instant though...if yours is drying fast then I’d say wait 5-10 minutes between coats. If it’s taking longer to dry then I’d just wait a bit and check it with your fingers every so often to see how long it’s taking to dry. I hope that helps
hey man, i noticed you didnt use prestain, did you notice any blotchiness or was this not a problem on the gerton? i finally got the gerton after waiting 3 weeks for it to restock and im going to do the same espresso stain tomorrow
No blotchiness that I can detect. You should be fine, especially if you have a brand new tabletop that hasn’t been used. I used mine for over a year before applying stain but by then I had developed sweat marks from my mouse hand. That’s the only dark area that looks somewhat blotchy...but even then I barely notice it after it’s been stained.
@@TrentonMichael thank you!
Thanks for your video. I just did my own desk with oil-based polyurethane two weeks ago but now it still smells. Did you have any problem with that? How did you get rid of the smell?
I'm sorry for the awfully late reply. I miss half of my comments due to TH-cam's interface and the studio app. How's your desk holding up?
i noticed that you use two alex drawers as the base for your table? how did you attach the table top to them? did you drill them in?
Hey! My tabletop is literally just sitting on top of the Alex drawers. It’s secure enough so I haven’t bothered to make it permanent.
so you sand after the stain before first poly coat? Would not sanding on stain make some unstained spots appear?
Do you do the underside together with the top or finish the top side completely before repeating the process for the underside ?
I actually did the underside first thing. Let that dry before you do the top.
Thank you I’m going to buy the table top being that I cannot find a 50 in desk it’s either 47 or 55 I need something in between
Excellent video, you deserve more subs!
I’m glad you enjoyed! And thank you, I am slowly climbing the ladder
If I was to cut this karlby to size how would I get the finish strip to hide the wood effect on the side
Thanks for this video. I went with the Gerton based on this video. Thought about the Karlby since it was already stained but 1) Didn't need a 6' desk and 2) I figure I can spend $20 for stain and polyurethane and still get the same effect for less money. Question though, how many hours would you estimate needed for this project from first sanding to install?
Honestly, if you don’t care about minor imperfections, I bet you could do the whole thing in a couple of hours. The biggest waiting point is just waiting for the stain to dry before the poly coat is applied.
Are minwax wood stains any good? the one recommended in the video is not sold in my country
I’d assume they’d be just fine to use.
@@TrentonMichael Thx i guess i'll just buy the minwax dark walnut stain :)
Did your desk smell strongly of polyurethane after? I just finished mine a couple of days ago and it still has a strong smell. Do you know how long it may last?
What do you use on your hair? Looks awesome.
I am getting patches here and there. How did u get it stained so evenly.
Is it really recommended to use a pre-stain wood treatment before staining , or can I do without the pre-stain.
HELP! Just bought IKEA KARLBY. I like the color so I’m not looking to stain it, but do I need to add polyurethane for any reason? Besides sanding it down to get the tabletop feeling smooth, what else do I need to do?
It wouldn’t hurt to add a coat of poly…mainly to protect the table from sweat stains and any liquid stains from drinks.
If we do 2 3 coat from satin(the first chemical). Should we sand each time after
I just ordered 2 Gerton desktops, is 1 qt of stain going to be enough?
How much poly will I need?
Great video, who does your music??
How did the stain the bottom if it's underneath? Did you wait for the top to dry, flip if over and do the bottom each time? Or did you just get under the desk and do it?
Yeah I just flipped it over and completed the opposite side.
@@TrentonMichael This may be a dumb question... but how did you avoid the edges being... double stained? I mean, if you stain the top and sides, and then the bottom when it's done.. wouldn't that edge get some extra stain on it and be extra dark?
Michael Mannucci I honestly wouldn’t worry too much about it. It’s pretty easy to keep the sides separated when staining. Even if you do get some stain on the sides, it blends pretty well when you stain the sides later on
So the first sanding process was 180 grit, was the second sanding 220 grit?
Sorry to take so long to reply. I've been out of town this month. I wouldn't get too hung up on which sanding paper to use...as long as you're able to sand down your table, you'll be just fine to apply your coat.
Hey, i'm looking at building two of these right next to each other. Is the stain, cloth, polyurethane, enough for 2 desks?
The stain is enough but you’ll need two cans of poly to cover both.
Awesome video thanks. How long does it usually take for polyurethane to dry?
with that first 180 sanding, did you sand it till completely smooth? or did you smooth it out when applying the polyurethane? Also great video, keep up the good work!
Yeah, I sanded until it was smooth for both stain and the first Poly coat
Ive begun the Stain Process and im satisfied with 1 coat so im waiting for it to dry now. How often should I apply coats of polyurethane since I need to do it 3 times
The poly dries super quick. I waited 5-10 minutes in between each coat
Awesome video man, btw when you applied the poly coating what grit sandpaper did you use? The same as before or a different one ?
I think I used 180. Really doesn’t matter too much tho. Just a finer grit so the poly seats smoothly
awesome video Trenton which ikea counter top is that in the video you have?
I have the Gerton
In your video it looks like you had the Gerton which looks to be somewhat natural whereas the Karbly has veneer coat on it. Would the process for the Karbly be somewhat different then and if so do you have any pointers? i.e. more sanding etc
P.S. great video! 👌🏼
You happen to do it with a karlby with veneer? Cuz I have one and am unsure about doing it this way now
If I don't want to stain, just apply polyurethane, do I still need to sand?
tushar gupta honestly, I am not too sure. Sanding is mostly there to open up the wood grain to absorb liquids. If you feel like the wood seems to be in a spot where it can absorb, then I’d say to skip sanding and move forward with the polyurethane.
Nice video indeed. But I got myself an american walnut veneer Karlby, hence no need for darker stain, it looks great just from the get go :-)
I was thinking of trying this out myself but I had one question that I couldn't really find a straight answer to. This time of year where I live it gets very hot and humid and I was wondering if that would effect the stain or the poly finish since I was planning to do this in the garage.
I’m sorry for the late response. I am not sure if you’ve already completed this project but I don’t think you’d have any issues. Maybe just allow extra drying time of the stain.
Hey :) this is exactly 100% what I was looking for, but I have a question, I have seen people with really kinda super reflective glossy finish, is there a step in there where that is added, do you know what makes a desk glossy and shiny?
That will most likely be the Poly coat that you decide to go with. Look for a high gloss can.
If I don't want to stain my table just want to seal my Karlby countertop with Polyurethane do I just follow the last steps?
Yup! Just a couple coats of Poly will do just that
Nice job! I Would like to know wich size are your screens. I have same tabletop but Im not sure if two 27" screens would be excessive. Thanks!