Machining a Drive Center to Turn Wood on a Metal Lathe
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- เผยแพร่เมื่อ 26 ส.ค. 2024
- This video will show you how to machine a center for your metal cutting lathe to turn wood. Its a handy attachment to have in your box. Take a Look !!!
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joe, are you copying my video?? ;-)
th-cam.com/video/sWHu-cCbodYi/w-d-xo.htmlt's
kinda koollll to get copied by a bigger name in YT :-)
the only drawback to working with wood on a metal lathe is that you spin the work fast enough. wood requires a slightly higher RPM than steel especially in smaller diameters. you should also do something with tailstock...it will split the wood
Greetings. I apologize for the overlap in content. It was not intentional and almost impossible to avoid. I do plan to make a reverse cup center in a future video, so another "sorry for that" in advance. To anyone reading this...follow the link in the above comment and check out their build too.
@@joepie221 no apology necessary Joe, i found it interesting that you went almost the same route i did in your build. it is rather flattering.
@@joepie221 Again, now you tell me,,,,,,I put that request for the cup center below....You are ALWAYS ahead of me, Joseph.
Thanks Joe. I had to sell my wood lathe to make room for my metal lathe and miss it from time to time.
When you pull a piece of stock and want to resume work on it, you'll want to make sure you get it placed back on your spur drive so that it's "clocked" in the same orientation as it was when you removed it. One trick to do that is to grind a nick in one spur edge. That way, when you want to put the piece back in after having removed it, you just make sure the notch lines back up with that leg on the drive.
Happy Easter!
-Kurt
I like the index feature. Good idea.
Now we need a cupped live center for the tailstock!
You made a "spur centre". Some versions have very small taper sockets in the bore to take different or replacement points. Some have parallel bores right through to take shell drills for boring out the centre holes in lamp spindles for wire. Nicely done.
Thanks Mark. I would have put a center on this, but my foot was killing me.
Hi Joe, I am a woodwork, metalwork, electronics teacher, 25 years, here in Sydney Australia.When we turn wood on a lathe, the lathe centre has a conical point to assist in centring. I was assuming you were going to make that part on the centre tool. If you think about it, what you made is not a centring tool. It needs your skills to setup the initial centre. I would have machined a cone on the front of the centre, or would pressure fit a pointed shaft into the hole.
Otherwise, great work and thank you.
No spur driver like this will be a centering tool without the workpiece having a guide feature in it. It may be a simple awl punch mark, but I have yet to see a self centering drive dog. I also mentioned the center point options in this video. ( I was just too sore to do it )
@@joepie221 To find centre on the end of a work piece we use a cross method of diagonals from the corner and use the spur at the intersection of the diagonals. By the way a real woodworker uses hand held chisels to do the turning. To use metalworking lathes for woodturning is not to be encouraged, although ok for some, the use of the chisels really gives the worker the feel and skills in what they are doing. In school, teachers show traditional methods of craftsmanship
Funny thing a guy just came to my shop and asked me to make one of those, great video joe,thanks
Hi Joe,
You made making a wood drive dog look easy. Actually, you make everything look easy. 🙂 Happy Easter to you and the family and you all stay safe.
Thank you Sir. All the best to you as well.
It freaks out the wood people, but all the wood turning I’ve ever done has been on a metal lathe. I’ve never had a wood lathe and don’t see why that’s a problem. Plus, the sawdust soaks up the metal muck and makes things easier to clean.
Well Hello Joe. This is a fun one for just about everyone and handy too. Good to see you back again my friend.
It is a fun project. Quick too.
Thanks I needed to find some way to turn wood on my new metal lathe, this is just what I’ll do. 👍
Be sure to watch the entire video for drive tooth options.
Joe, Abt the only main thing you forgot to say was COVER YOUR WAYS and as much of your metal lathe WHEN DOING WOOD. Not only do you get wood chips everywhere but actual powdered saw DUST much finer than metal chips that turns into oily sludge and packs into everywhere and is an absolute nightmare to get out ...GREAT video, just be aware of the cleanup mess afterwards.......
Hi Joe, a washer at the tai8lstock end ctops splitting and increases stability. From L M Sparrey The Amatures Lathe.
That's a nice simple and effective solution!
A reverse cone is my preferred method.
Hello,love your TH-cam channel, concerning the tailstock end of wood turning,a 60 center is a bad idea, make a T shape bushing, or grab a 3/8 bolt about 1 inch long, turn the threads off (if you have access to a metal lathe) , center drill the head of the bolt, then just drill a straight hole in the wood,hammer the bushing into the wood, this worked well for me, made many production wood turnings.I learned the hard, the school of hard knocks, I’m retired now, but my day job was keeping 13 cnc turret lathes running on a daily basis , made over a million turnings in my 30 year career, Happy Easter!
Oops, you didn't watch the whole video did ya?
The parting off blanks that you normally hand grind are also excellent for turning wood on a metal lathe.
The last time I mentioned I was cutting wood in my milling machine, people told me I was stupid and going to wreck my machine... I ignored them, no regrets!
Hope you are healing up nicely!!!
What a great addition to your tool box Joe, "Need a tool, make a tool" right ?
Hi Del, thanks for stopping by. I always enjoy the challenge of not having the tool. Its just a delay and opportunity to get creative. Usually driven by time and budget constraints. I'm sure you know exactly what I mean. Stay well Sir.
Love the process. I, myself, would take off my chuck and insert a Morse 4 to a Morse 2 adapter. I had to turn some very very hard 'Horse Apple' known by Boas-d-arc by many and myself. The limb had dried for 20 years and was not yet ready. I turn a spindle and let it dehydrate more. Now after 40+ years I think it might be stable. I have both wood and metal lathes and wood and metal band-saws.....
Thank you Joe. Looks like a useful project. Hope you are doing well.
Coming along nicely John. Nights are still tough.
Good to see you almost on two feet. Her in doors sends her best!
Genius work again Joe. Another lesson learned 😊
Thanks 👍
I made a wood engaging drive baded og the VERY fine spikey plate out of a commercial counter top jucer machine. It has waves of 1mm tall angled hogh strength teeth. Over 300 teeth in a 50mm diameter plate. 5mm centre hole . Plate mounted on a cast alloy arbour. 10mm hole all the way up the arbor for a centering pin or wood screw.
Holds every thing from iron wood to foam.
Thanks for the video and your efforts.
Good job. I can't wait to see the wood project you are going to make. Keep up the good work
Thanks.
I have a tracer in mind. It may be a good series.
All nicely done but, if i may, add some comments. Your drive has very sharp "teeth" that might split some fibrous timbers, traditionally the teeth are nearer 45 degrees, which also stronger, but this leads to side effect that the drive has to be hammered into the end, if it isn't the teeth act as cutters if a slightly heavy cut is made. Compromise time?
I mention the edge of the tooth. It can easily be adjusted by being shorter.
Hi Joe, I see now that you try to switch from metric to imperial back and forth.
As a Canadian, which is officially being metric, and an old fart like me used to imperial, I constantly have to make calculations and approximations and I found that you have just 2 numbers to remember to hop from one system to the other.... 25 and 40 !
DO NOT use what I am about to explain for precision work, but to get you in the ballpark it's perfect...
1 inch =25mm, but there is a certain error coefficient, to correct this coefficient then use number 40 as 1 meter is 40 inches (1000mm / 25=40 again, with a slight error)
So 100 mm = 4 inches, 1 mm = 40mil and so forth...
10 feet is then 120 inches /40 inches= 3 meters I know it sounds weird but believe me , it works! :)
A sheet of 4'X8' is then, 1m +200mm (40 inches +8*25mm) by 2,4metre
I find myself constantly juggling these values in my head at stores and supply places when buying material.
The real pain comes when you have to buy precision tools!
I have most of my tools in both metric and imperial, twice the cost!
I am an amateur machinist and the project I make concern mostly repairing/modifying existing stuff, or audio related equipment ( I am a sound recordist) and lots of the equipment I use is either metric, or imperial, so I prefer to use dedicated metric or imperial measuring tools. Of course, some of the electronic display types of caliper and micrometer can use both scales, but I am used to mechanical devices.
Also I have a whole set of metric and imperial cutting tools (end mills, drill bits, 82 and 90° countersink bit etc...) You get the idea! :)
If the unit you wish to convert is metric simply divide by 25.4 for Imperial. To convert Imperial to metric multiply by 25.4.
Thanks Joe
Enjoyed…great instructions/demonstration
Thanks Chuck.
Good show Joe. I made one similar a while ago, but I used 3/4” dia. Drill rod. I hate turning wood because it makes such a mess, but sometimes you gotta do what you gotta do.
I agree with putting the tool in the normal tool holder. Best thing about machining is feeding the tool by machine rather than feeding by hand.
One thing I don’t understand about woodworkers is their willingness to pay as much as they do for their lathes that spin only. Metal working lathes spin, PLUS they move the tool in precise movements.
Bloody nice tool Joe. A lot better than many of the commercial made units out there.. the pulling out of the tailstock was very impressive. I hope your Achilles' tendon is getting better and you are able to stand for a period of time before you have to take the weight off for a coffee lol. Cheers from the UK
Thanks 👍
Joe, very nice machining, BUT. I think that you will find that your design is Old Hat and modern wood turning practices do not use this type of drive center any more. I would strongly suggest that you watch some wood turning videos by well known experts to see what is currently being used. Regards from Australia.
If you can, reply with a link to an image. Thanks.
@@joepie221 Hi Joe, here is a link that shows you the different drive options. He explains why some are good and bad. The main bad reason for your type is that 2 prongs drive into end grain and 2 into cross grain. The modern way is a round multi pointed teeth, anyway these pictures may help. The other problem you will also have is at the tailstock end, a straight 60 degree point is also not advised, as spindle turning is end grain, and pushing a point it is not good as the end grain will open up and become loose. The analagy of end grain is if you imagine a bunch of drinking straws, if you push something into them they open up. They recommend a revolving center with a center point, but also a ring around it to contain the end grain. Hope this helps, here is the link. Regards from Australia. th-cam.com/video/mg50KDNCj2Q/w-d-xo.html Here is another one. th-cam.com/video/3T1A0GseDlg/w-d-xo.html
Thanks Joe, I was pondering a way in doing some wood turning. Like the new digs.
Hi Joe,
That is a brilliant change to a normal wood turning spur drive. Having the driving faces perpendicular to the workpiece axis prevent it pushing the workpiece off as the normal spur gear can, which usually has a sloped face both sides. And it is so easy to machine. My wood lathes have MT head and tail stocks, but that is no problem either.
Thanks for a great idea.
Regards Dennis
Its very strong Dennis. I like it.
Thanks for the video! A tool to have as spare in case of unusual work...
The supplier of my Super Mini Lathe, Warco UK, issues warnings against wood turning. They fear the fine wood dust will compromise the motor, and maybe the control box...
Joe, the adapter king.....
If it scares anyone, wipe the ways down before you start and keep a shop vac nozzle by the tool. Problem solved.
@@joepie221 Yes, that ought solve it. Maybe first some metal turning making a shop vac nozzle holder on the carriage....
As a suggestion for a future project. I would guess that many of your hobbyist subscribers are running old machines with worn out cross slide screws/nuts. I would love to see a video on turning precision acme threads. I have an old Colchester and replacement parts are way too expensive for a hobby machine. My machine requires a twin start thread, would be good to see this included along with advice on material selection
I too would like a video on turning ACME type threads. I'm sure you could reveal some concepts learned from your vast experience to us novices. Thanks, j
Great suggestion! They need to be supported correctly and actually measured to be reliable. Second option, make it undersize and call it good. Kidding on option 2.
Super Demo Joe. Will save and use this tech when Brides crisis of cancer is at bay. Have some upcoming wood projects in my future 👍
Its good to be versatile. Best to the bride Bear. Good luck.
I never thought I would see you turning wood, but very interesting like all your videos.
I usually close the blinds first. :)
thanks for the upload joe, have a good weekend.
cheers ben.
Nice idea Joe and good to see the technique used. :)
I used to use one, only it was to drive steel.I used to use it on small shafts about 3" dia by 4" or 5" long for OH crane wheels. Never had a problem.
I probably will never cut wood but this is an excellent tutorial.
Good work as always. We shared this video on our homemade tools forum this week 😎
Awesome! Thank you!
I'm a little late to the dance, but I do like the centerndriver youn made. Nice work as always Joe,
Thanks for the video.
Is that a test indicator wall clock??? COOL!!!
It is. I have a video on how it was made.
Great idea. I actually need to do this to make a couple of parts for a friend of mine in Austin....go figure
I got a suggestion for a video.
How do you clean your lathe and other equipment? I noticed your lathe is so clean!
thanks for sharing. simple but elegant in design keep up the good work.
Thank you! Will do!
Nice job milling that arbor Joe...
Thanks 👍
hi joe, also you can use aluminum insert and carbide insert for wood turning (easy wood tools).
An interesting way to machine a headstock wood driver. For long term use you’d want to harden it but machinist don’t turn enough wood to worry about it. You could also make a long tool rest for use with regular wood turning tools.
A piece of bar stock in a tool holder and off ya go.
Awesome video as usual Joe....always wondered how you could do wood in a metal lathe without crushing it...
good to see you ! hope foot is better !!!
Getting there.
Hey Joe, thanks for your videos.
Glad you like them!
Sweet, I need to make one of those.
Very interesting and nice video Joe. You have been missed, just hope it's because you've been busy making money in your shop. Take care and be safe! Thank you!
Recovering from a severed achilles. It will be a while before I'm up to speed.
Thank you Joe I thought you were further along with your recovery just don't do too much to fast! Your videos are the very best!!! You have a great following....
Hey, Good to see ya back,,,,,Just why didn't you show me this before I made my "wrench" for the 5C collets. I never thought of using a collet block. (I my case the Hex block). I screwed around with the rotary table. (Dunderhead-itus)
There has never been one of your vids where I didn't see something I could use later. I'm no spring chicken and have been arround machinery for decades, but I always come away from you vids with a couple more tricks to put in my bag.
Hey, Not that is rocket science but a cup center that could be put over the live center? Less chance of splitting the wood and you wouldn't need candle wax (That shows how long ago I was in 8th grade shop class 🤣)
Thanks for the comment.
Thank you Joe
Now that is a good idea!
what no morse taper for the headstock shaft??? lol nice accessory to have.
Hi Joe, Many thanks for all the wonderful videos that you have put out for us. If I may add my 2 cents worth here. This is not the safest way here. You have a 4 way splitter here. The vibrations of turning can cause split creep. And you can have end failures, when you cut away supporting wood around this type of holder. Kind regards, and greetings from Africa.
no, i made one very similar. they work just fine and don't split the wood.
@@HolzMichel Thanks for taking the trouble to reply. I have a two pin (steel) chuck that goes into the end of the wood that I use. And as the holes are drilled to take them. It leaves a safer connection than the one shown above.
@@davidwootton683 interesting description. seems like that would work too, although i have never seen anything like it.
the thing about the bit shown is that it disperses the pressure of the tool against the work piece over a larger diameter/area. it greatly reduces the potential for slippage. it does take a bit of finesse to insert the driver into the work and not split it. this is usually done with the tail stock
Fortunately, I have a wood lathe in addition to my two metal lathes. I get to keep the messes contained to their respective machines.
Nice work Joe happy Easter from Australia.
Thank you. Same to you.
Nice, Joe!
Super as always.
Great idea!
Nice one! Thanks.
How opportune is this? I just bought a 2" slab of white oak and will turn (metal lathe) a set of 8 legs to make a pair of replica coffin stools. I was thinking of holding the square leg ends in a 4 jaw but this seems like more fun. For the other end, I will make a small point with a retaining ring to interface with a live center. I was considering using an insert for aluminum as a cutting tool - until I saw your cutting tool... The white oak is quite fine grained but there are some checks - any thoughts on tear out?
I just bought 2 slabs 6' long of white oak for $150. I'm restoring a boat. It has to be clear and absolutely must be white oak. 2" thick 20 some inches wide and 6' long. Was my price right?
I bought the ones close to the center so the rings would be perpendicular to the slab (I've made a few bows and thats how I used to do it) When I got to the boat I realized that the ribs have the rings the opposite! dang it. Now I don't know if I can use it.
@@onenewworldmonkey 40 board feet of clear white oak for $120 - that's a steal! My piece was a 2x16x36 inch off cut for $70. Nice grain for furniture though.
Boat hull repair is an art form way above my pay grade - best of luck with it.
thank you !
I've made walnut French rolling pins on my lathe.
Nice. Keep it spinning slowly as you apply the finish and during drying. It will look like glass.
@@joepie221
I actually sand the walnut on the lathe then steel wool 0000 by hand.
Then I use real milk tung oil thinned with the last coat with japan dryer in it.
Been hand rubbing this finish for many years even for gun stocks and knife handles.
Its durable as hell.
It's even on my solid oak garage floor.
A mating tapered X punch wood be useful but woody make one or just modify a spade wood bit to an offset flush to one side knife edge, as in Japanese knife edge style, and put to use with a tappity tap tap then twist 90° for a final tappity tap tap to form an X pattern to guide your work to a centered alignment with your Xilent steel wood work tailstock beauty.
Just thinking...
Hope the leg is all okay and this isnt the prelude to "how to turn a peg-leg":P
Hi, Joe , Another great vid. Thank You . maybe do a vid on this I'm having an trouble with . When I'm drilling a blind hole using the DRO . With the different length drills , whats the best way to touch off so the all bore and ream at the same depth.. ? Michael
I always rest the tool against a known thickness tool bit and just add the value based on actual performance. Works for me with drills and reamers.
I like the tool. I am curious as to your reasoning for nibbling to rough dimension as supposed to just climb cutting to it?
Reduced chance of it grabbing and in my opinion, much faster for the amount of material being removed.
@@joepie221 Thanks for clarifying that.
👍🏽 nice! Thanks
I am new to this with very few tools but I do have an Alliant mill.
I need a 12x12 cube mounted to a plate at a 45 degree angle. I will do this with 4 right triangles (8" legs) made from 1" plate. Picture a square that you pick up one side 45 degrees. I will bolt the cube onto all 4 hypotenuses. Two triangles on the right and a mirror image on the left.
Here is my question: How can I accurately mill out these 4 triangles without many tools? I'm picturing making 2 squares then cut a diagonal on both with the band saw. I will need to clean up all 4 hypotenuses (haven't used that word in 20 years, now used it twice). Can I do them all at once? How would you do it?
If you don't get to this I understand. I just wanted to let you know that your real world videos are making a huge impact on me.
Starting those gussets by making squares first should work well. If its a precision angle part you need, don't forget about the bandsaw blade width. As for finishing the hypotenuse, I would layout and drill a pin pattern in a plate mounted to the table. Nest the parts on that for location, and clamp them down. Thats just one option, but one I've used before. As for doing all at once, that depends on the cutter and material thickness. Good luck and thanks for the support.
Great!!! :)
I’m sorry but gotta check what I saw at the beginning: is that clock a giant test indicator?
It is, and I think he has a video of making it. Pretty cool!
@@rustysteed8414 Thanks!
@@rustysteed8414 Here is the link for the making of the clock
th-cam.com/video/aFRG7nI5ZVY/w-d-xo.html
Its a great addition to the shop wall.
I’d like your ideas on truing up a square collet bloke.
Here is how I would do it for a 4 sided block. Using the largest collet (of known accuracy) hold a precision pin. Stabilise the collet block with a toolmakers vise. Clamp the assembly into Vee blocks, one each end of the pin. Now with a fixed depth of cut dust off the faces of the collet block. Along with the usual facing sequence for squareness routine and the toolmakers vise you should have a collet block that is now square and coaxial. Hexagonal blocks will require a little more effort using angle blocks to set the 120 degree index.
@@RobB_VK6ES I used the lathe to true up the hex block. I turned a diameter in the lathe then tightened the collet onto it then took a skim across the corners. Works well if you put the corners down in the vice and clamp the flats and come in from the top to cut your hex or do your indexing.
Using a good collet and a gage pin, lock the pin in the block and go to the surface plate. Using an indicator, check the height of the pin for each side of the block. grind to correct as necessary.
How many wood chucks could a woodchuck chuck if a woodchuck could chuck wood?
A woodchuck would chuck all the wood a woodchuck could chuck if a woodchuck could chuck wood.
Excellent.
Now to clean that dam wood dust off your lathe !! Hi from down under
Joe, wondering how you controlled depth repeatedly milling vertically down to flat side of the 'teeth'. Does your mill have a quill down-stop?
thanks
I live in New Braunfels. I would really love to talk to you and or come and see your shop. I'm truly looking into finding a machine shop.
As I get back to regular hours, you are more than welcome to visit. It will be a few weeks yet.
Nice job Joe! Hey I have a question. I need to internal left hand thread a 2" long bronze tube to .780" 6ACME. It will then be slit and used for a half nut on a lathe. Which insert and holder do I need for this project? Guessing it will be in the 22IL 22NL 6ACME class of inserts. Cutting the far side of the bronze bore and feeding into the headstock with reversed spindle won't be an issue as I have plenty of chuck and spindle bore to clear the tool. OEM nuts are $90 each and this lathe uses the same lead screw for infeed and cross feed and threading so the keyed leadscrew eats half nuts pretty fast which explains my need to make a stockpile of them. PS, Would it be easier to make a long taper tap from 1" round stock and tap the bronze? Thanks for any help you can give.
Great tool Joe, that's going on the to do list! Can I ask what that neutral rake insert is, that you're always using? Is there a particular reason you use that over other insert geometries?
Its a TPG 321 insert. If you need a bigger tip radius, get a 322 or larger. The holder is neutral in the Y direction, but a very mild back rake in the Z. I love it.
Interesting but I would honestly recommend figuring out a way to use or make a Robust "cup style" drive center. Sometimes the "traditional" methods are not as good as the newer ideas.
Those arent a new design. I have one that came straight outta the 50s.
But those are nice when you are showing someone new how to turn, just less dangerous and can slip if you catch. Just not appropriate for high load scenarios. Every tool has its place.
@@miles11we You say it isn't well suited for high load but testing proves otherwise.
@@prototype3a link it. They are called safety centers for a reason, the design didn't magically become grippy because it was recently made by a different company.
@@miles11we th-cam.com/video/QnXDzxVTeR0/w-d-xo.html
@@miles11we I know there is a better demo video for the Robust "ring" drive, but I can't seem to find it or remember where I saw it.
I was looking at the thumb nail and wondering how you were going to do that, now I know!
Also, I have a ready source for scrap 316 bar. How does that compare, turning wise to what you used here, (303 if I remember).
316 is a bit tougher, but will work just fine.
@@joepie221 Many thanks!
Hey Joe 🇺🇸 🦅
Thanks for checking in Joe. Hows the weather in NJ today?
@@joepie221 I'm in Virginia at the moment, low 70s
So would you suggest tung oil for a coolant when cutting wood, or would this be a better use for linseed?
I like it.
I am new to machining. I need to make some dowel plugs. .775 diameter with .375 hole through the center and 1” in length. I am using 1” oak dowels for my material. Should I bore the holes first or turn first? I am only doing 4 at a time so chucking the dowel to the chuck and only extending material 5” out from the chuck. I am making 50 of them.
Its really your choice for an operation like this. But, smaller diameter material has a greater chance of flexing, so maybe the hole is best done first, then turn it and part it off. Use aggressive rake and lead angles on your tooling to shear the wood fibers.
@@joepie221 Thks
Cleaning wood chips out of a metal lathe. LOL
I only stay away from G10. Every other material is fair game on my lathe.
@@joepie221 Thanks for your reply and all the best.
👍👍😎👍👍
I have not been tempted to turn wood on the metal lathe. Most of the surfaces are oiled and the cleanup would seem to be a mess.
Rag, vacuum, elbow grease. Problem solved.
3/4 = 19.05mm
😁
As my ole machining instructor says “ain’t it cool”
✋🏼🇦🇺👍🏼
Tree steel doesn't have the same appeal, I just can't weld it into my projects
Would you believe there is a wood welder?? Look it up.
555⁵55
I did nazi this coming.
Surprise !!
Thanks for sharing that with us Joe.
Happy Easter!
Jesus died about 2000 years ago to pay for our sin then rose from the grave to show He was sinless. That's how He could pay for our sin because He had none of His own to pay for.
Did you know that He walked on earth, with people, for 40 days with holes in His hands, feet and side before going to heaven with God? He was seen by over 500 people at one time.
God bless you!
Jesus answered and said unto him, Verily, verily, I say unto thee, Except a man be born again, he cannot see the kingdom of God.
John 3:3 KJV
But the fearful, and unbelieving, and the abominable, and murderers, and whoremongers, and sorcerers, and idolaters, and all liars, shall have their part in the lake which burneth with fire and brimstone: which is the second death.
Revelation 21:8 KJV
Moreover, brethren, I declare unto you the gospel which I preached unto you, which also ye have received, and wherein ye stand; By which also ye are saved, if ye keep in memory what I preached unto you, unless ye have believed in vain. For I delivered unto you first of all that which I also received, how that Christ died for our sins according to the scriptures; And that he was buried, and that he rose again the third day according to the scriptures:
1 Corinthians 15:1-4 KJV
For all have sinned, and come short of the glory of God; Being justified freely by his grace through the redemption that is in Christ Jesus: Whom God hath set forth to be a propitiation through faith in his blood, to declare his righteousness for the remission of sins that are past, through the forbearance of God; To declare, I say, at this time his righteousness: that he might be just, and the justifier of him which believeth in Jesus.
Romans 3:23-26 KJV
But God commendeth his love toward us, in that, while we were yet sinners, Christ died for us. Much more then, being now justified by his blood, we shall be saved from wrath through him. For if, when we were enemies, we were reconciled to God by the death of his Son, much more, being reconciled, we shall be saved by his life. And not only so, but we also joy in God through our Lord Jesus Christ, by whom we have now received the atonement.
Romans 5:8-11 KJV
For by grace are ye saved through faith; and that not of yourselves: it is the gift of God: Not of works, lest any man should boast.
Ephesians 2:8-9 KJV
Therefore being justified by faith, we have peace with God through our Lord Jesus Christ: By whom also we have access by faith into this grace wherein we stand, and rejoice in hope of the glory of God.
Romans 5:1-2 KJV
That if thou shalt confess with thy mouth the Lord Jesus, and shalt believe in thine heart that God hath raised him from the dead, thou shalt be saved. For with the heart man believeth unto righteousness; and with the mouth confession is made unto salvation.
Romans 10:9-10 KJV
He is risen!
Maybe you should have looked at factory made four pronged drive centre before you started this
point?