I can't figure out why I enjoy your videos so much, but I look forward to them every week. I wish I had a tenth of your knowledge. You are quite possibly the most meticulous small engine guy I have ever seen. I have learned more watching your videos than I could teach myself in a lifetime.
I’ve had many scenarios as a mechanic where a customer ran their engine low on oil, And in a desperate attempt to turn back time, topped off the engine after the damage was already done. Point is, it’s possible that the owner of that generator added some oil hoping it would fix what was already destroyed.
I think you should try to install a low oil sensor on one of these Briggs one day when you’re rebuilding one. I’m sure there’s a way to do it and if anyone can do you could.
I know nothing about generators and not a huge amount about engines but I found the channel by accident and now I'm hooked and I don't know why!! Hello from the UK keep up the great work
Well, in the event you decide to begin working on small engines/machinery. You have one of the most methodical and knowledgeable teachers on the web to provide examples of what to do. Cheers
Great video James, I love the re-power challenges! Those Subaru engines are great, I've owned several of the EX series and they are top notch. They have a superior timing chain design and I feel like these engines are underrated in terms of power output. They have solid guts and in my opinion, are equal to Honda's GX line. It's possible with break-in the engine will gain a little more power, but per the bonus footage, it appears it was holding nearly 5500 watts. The load bank is very helpful and that's a great addition to the channel.
Subaru engine are great; since 9 years, I have a EH72FI (28hp) running my 60'' wide snowblower (from rear 3pt hitch on a tractor to front mount) and since 9 years of snowblowing never miss a beat (I do care very well/maintain ALL my equipement). I live in Province of Québec, where we have 5 months/year snow cover ground and I have almost 1/2 mile of alley to clean.
If you hadn't bumped up the AVR and increased the output voltage it probably would have handled 5000 watts. I like your thinking. Load bank looks great, very professional.
that thumbnail really shows the contrast of just how much better looking those Robin blocks are compared to the briggs intek blocks. really love those subarus
A great video. As always with these videos you put out, I do learn something new on every one. For me, it was the epilog reminding that watts are a combination of volts and amps, so I will need to do the math before I draw conclusions... My 7000 watt generator here in the Philippines gets used on average at least once a week. Power here is considered a "nice to have" rather than a NEED to "have" for the general population. I attempt to provide full time service when on a project call to get new power plants and refinery systems started on first start up. I do some of it from here, via internet. So power and Internet is essential for me. I keep my generator ready to go at a moments notice. Your channel for me has been a real BIG help to diagnose where the little glitches are going to come from so I can remedy them before they become big. NOTHING resembling service or parts in this remote island, so I keep parts in my stocks. NOW, I need some of your testing equipment so I can do better at diagnosis. Thanks for your very thorough descriptions.... NOT electrical at all in me, but Chemistry and flow hydraulics are my specialties... Hence the reply below on Caustic instead of Muriatic. Ha ha, I wonder how many of us were shouting at the monitors trying to warn you about the ground wire you forgot!!
Hey James, great video, as usual. Here’s a thought, try fabricating your own exhaust flange to fit a Subaru and then just weld it to any muffler you like. This way you can use the Subaru more often, just a thought. Again awesome job!! Ray
I think you don’t give your self enough credit. All you really need is a welder(which you have), angle grinder, drill or drill press and an attention for detail ( which you also have). Bingo Bango, you’re all set. Maybe a engineer’s black book or a Machinery’s Hand Book if you’re unsure of some fabrication math but I have the utmost confidence that you would do an awesome job. Keep up the awesome work James!!! Ray Hanson
Another "Bob Ross of generators" masterpiece! I love the new load bank... Your generator videos were always great; with the new THD meter and the load bank, they have reached yet another plateau. PLEASE keep your neighbors happy so you can keep giving us JC fans this great content! Any plans to create a JC T-shirt, coffee cup, or ball cap in a merch store? 🤔
That Briggs, I reckon a little application of muriatic acid, a new conrod and some gaskets should see running again. Possibly a new piston, but eminently rebuildable. I guess the reason why the voltage was down just a little, was to avoid overloading the engine. As you say, the generator has an AVR, and the voltage doesn't sag, as would be the case in a non-regulated version.
Interesting to see you reasoning your way through this engine swap. Gives you an idea what the people who do LS swaps of various other engines have to work out.
After watching quite a few of your generator videos I’m no longer apprehensive about jumping in and working on them, I do have a background in small engines. I’m currently searching for one to tinker with.
@@MiniLuv-1984Absolutely. The diagnosis process is the most difficult part as every symptom can be caused by several things. Repair, to me, is secondary as you at least are focused on only one section/part- usually. James makes it look easy. Im sure you'll do great. Good luck and enjoy!
Me too. Spotted a 5000 w Predator on Facebook marketplace for $80, and it’s on my way to camp. The owner says ‘No power’ ‘Might need a new alternator.’ Heh heh…
Just washed a video of a guy trying to repair a carb on in a ryobi inverter generator and was the worst ever seen on you tube I can only hope you can see it. After finishing the repair, started up with surging alot, and said, their you go working great,which was ridiculous. Video on repair was awful. My friend you are the best in everything you do. Keep up your great work. Please take care. Freddy your best friend and fan all the way here in Puerto Rico 😂
Subaru (Robin, Fuji) may be the VERY BEST engine available. It has chain-driven overhead CAMSHAFT (More power out of less displacement) ... most others have cam in the crankcase. I have been fixing small-engines for many years and have only seen ONE Subaru/Robin failure.
Another great video, especially on this generator. Thanks again for your support. The tank bushings are in the mail along with a bonus, letter in package will explain.
An incredibly produced video, James. Such attention to detail and perfectionist. When I've always brought a new generator, I've always fitted a good quality electronic tachometer, which is great for service intervals and rpm readouts. Being a channel that's focused on generators and small engines, you should consider a video on building the ultimate sound deadening acoustic enclosure, which would be a great noise reduction and keep your neighbours as friends and not enemies
Depending on the heat treatment and hardening of crank in bolt thread area, the manufacturer may use a +.003"-.005" oversize tap, allowing compensation for metal shrinkage or expansion in the bolt hole.
Thanks for this video James! This is awesome to see and your videos help instill confidence in me. I’ve got a friend that blew up a 2,000 watt inverter generator (it had a knock from the factory and they told him to keep it). I’m going to try a 79cc predator swap on it just for a fun project. Thanks for your content, this is great!
Odd but I have a Briggs & Stratton 1150 series 250cc on my generator it's rated at 11 Hp & 4375/3500 watts, so it makes you wonder just how close to the truth any of this stuff really is. Great video, shows just how important having all those spare parts around really is.
A word of caution, for distorted current (high THD) watts is no long just Volts x Amps. That gives you Apparent Power (VA). You need a proper wattmeter for the best accuracy. Adding a wattmeter to your nice compact resistive load setup would be a nice side project.
I can’t lie Subaru does make some good small engines. I’ve been having this 5.5 on a pump made for 10ish hp and it’s been used all the time for flooded basements.
Due to thermal inefficiency, single cylinder 2 pole gensets have a 2HP for every 1000W ***under load*** relationship. This is an accepted rating within the portable generator manufacturing world. So ideally you have a 4750 running watt generator. You may be able to push up to 5K but at the sacrifice of engine speed since the AVR is going to maintain output voltage given that the power head is sufficiently sized but the prime mover is not. Great video is always James!
WARNING: Those potentiometers will develop dead spots. You need to run the pot back and forth a few times in the general area of the turns. BTW, you have a great set of videos that I have shared out to others.
Thanks for another entertaining video James I would agree with the comment about adding a low oil shut off switch somewhere on this type of engine it might be a improvement.
Hello James. As I am in generation and electrical apparatus service and repair. I do agree that someone that has no experience should not adjust while it is running. In the field it is not practical to adjust the AVR while not running, as we can set it once and move on to the next piece of equipment. By the way the voltage to the field is not high voltage and is usually lower than 20 volts DC on smaller equipment. It is all ohms law. If you did have high voltage with low ohms the current would be so high that it would be more current than the AC current you are trying to supply. Keep up the good work and keep the videos going. Mike
There are a lot watching that have no business adjusting while running so I do not show it. But it can be done. Surprisingly a lot of Honda clones are over 100 Volts DC at the brushes.
I'm thinking some run in under load and possibly valve adjustment, you know it doesn't take much, this is a fresh engine and the internals are just getting comfortable with each other, should definitely carry 5k without issue
You are funny with that ground wire “mental block”. If I recall, you’ve reminded us about the ground wire in many other videos where you remove the power head.
When you did the video for the load test unit, I saw a faint circle next to the meters in the blank area; I assume it is a cut-out plate for a 4th meter/gauge in that panel = you could put a watt-meter in there
When will people learn not to buy anything with b/s names on it. ? No low oil shut down is a must have on a generator period…. Thanks for video and info 😊
Great job James as always. I'm curious to see how that Gen, would run 5kw of heaters, the old school hook them up way you used to do. You might be surprised and the AVR might be able to be turned down a bit for a few more amps into the equation.
And you were either running a little lean on the idle circuit in the carb or the magneto needs adjusted tighter. It was Breaking up at lower RPMs. It did sound like it was spark related. I've bought quite a few new engines off of ebay. You should always go through them thoroughly before firing them up. They get bumped around pretty good in shipping.
1:04:26 When you said you were pulling 22 amps, that reading from the video has significant parallax error. If you were to find a still with it aligned perpendicularly (no parallax) it would probably read closer to 20 amps. That would put the engine just shy of 5000 W unfortunately.
Sir if you have any more exhaust gasket you have someone using a Lazer cutter or water cutter and make some flanges so you can cut off the flanges off the Honda muffler and weld on them
I don't think you hit 22 amps James (actually I'm pretty sure :) ) Your photograph is from an angle and these meters need to be read straight ahead in order to make an accurate reading. So most likely your reading was around 21 amps, still well above 5000W for a new engine that needs to broken in. Awesome repair as always. Very informative.
If generators have to be level when in use, you could stick one of those cheap bubble levels on top, that show levelness in X and Y at the same time. Could be cheap insurance.
Super job as usual. Is there a risk using synthetic oil in an air cooled engine? You may be the only user who follows the suggested breakin procedure which is very admirable. 👍 As for calculating the Wattage, you are assuming your Ammeter is accurate.
Maybe you can have a clamp meter to accurately measure the current while using the new load tester so you can calculate an exact power value. Also, measure the voltage at the generator output rather than at the tester to remove the effect of any voltage drop over the cable (maybe you are already doing that).
Definitely need to come up with a better way of measuring the exact amount of power being pulled. The analog gauges although nice to look at are not great for exact measurements.
Heat cycles do more than running at different speeds imo! Yes run on no load for a while then shut off and let completely cool. Then run on some load for while and let cool all the way off. Then run on even more load for a while then let cool. Change oil and send it!!!
Is there an in-expensive way to “cleanup” the power / sinewave on no-inverter generators. During power outages a key appliance to keep powered is the refrigerator, and now common to have some type of control board. I believe I killed the LED light board while using the generator after a storm outage. Thanks, great channel
I believe you've done this sort of swap a few years ago. As long as the end result is a reliable working machine, it's all good. I'll admit it's a bit weird to have a non-briggs motor on a briggs branded product.
Main jets play a big factor on horsepower ratings you could have the same engine same cc ect but if it was me I'd go up one to two sizes bigger on the main jet and it should handle it. I've gotten away with that before besides changing camshafts out depending upon brand and series of engines but like I said try a larger main jet.
Would have liked to see the inside of the briggs. A worksite bought a new concrete mixer with a robin 4 stroke. After about 5 hours use spread over a week or so, it developed a knock. Didn't get to findout what happened, but have seen a number of small 4 strokes just undid their own big end bearing bolts and flew apart. Apathy on behalf of assembly workers. Bought a 69 Valiant Regal (Aussie model) with a blown 225- took it apart to find the nuts on number 2 conrod came loose only to slightly crack the block, enough to destroy the motor though.
All to often you see the variable in the horsepower dictated by the size of the jetting or the carb on the engine. I am sure your aware of this but many are not. The CC of the engine can be exact, the stroke, and just by changing the carb and maybe the spring on the governor it will be up a couple hp without detriment effects on the engine longevity.
The first thing I thought of when I saw that oil is that it looks almost unused. I'm wondering if maybe it ran out of oil, the engine blew, then someone tried putting more oil into it thinking that maybe it was just seized?
Mr Condon, I enjoy your videos very much. I have learned much about small engines from your channel. I especially like the generator content. Do you have a video explaining how an auto choke works on a Homelite hg5000? I looked and I can’t find any video or website help. It’s the pull choke that has a small hose with check valve going behind the carb. It can also be found on some Hondas and clones. That info could be good for a video? Thanks.
Never really spoke much about it. Will try and do so the next time I get one. In a nut shell, when the engine is not running the choke is on. When running, there is a vacuum created in the intake manifold. The small hose is connected on one end to the intake manifold where it pulls a vacuum when the engine is running and that actuates a vacuum servo that open the choke. As long as the engine is running, the choke is held open. When off the choke returns to closed. A lot of times the system does not work well because the linkage gets a little tangled up.
Adding a DPM with Watts to the load-bank should be easy. Amazon sells them for less than $50. Most measure power-factor too, so the Watts are expressed in real-power.
Yes 22 Amps by 240 volts is 5280 watts. It was interesting to see it fail at that point under load. I am surprised you did not open up the valve cover and double check the opening and closing specs of the in and out exhaust valves. Would it take that much time?
I can't figure out why I enjoy your videos so much, but I look forward to them every week. I wish I had a tenth of your knowledge. You are quite possibly the most meticulous small engine guy I have ever seen. I have learned more watching your videos than I could teach myself in a lifetime.
Who needs school when you can watch these videos.
Same, he is always calm and explains everything, even when you spot something he doesn't, he'll surely address it after a few moments.
Yes!
I’ve had many scenarios as a mechanic where a customer ran their engine low on oil, And in a desperate attempt to turn back time, topped off the engine after the damage was already done. Point is, it’s possible that the owner of that generator added some oil hoping it would fix what was already destroyed.
That was my first thought too, even before I saw how clean the oil which came out of the engine was.
I think you should try to install a low oil sensor on one of these Briggs one day when you’re rebuilding one. I’m sure there’s a way to do it and if anyone can do you could.
That lack of low oil sensor seems to be the killer of those Briggs Storm Responders.
Clever (on the thieves side of things) the more that blow up the more they sell.
Yes. And the casting is there. If I recall, early ones had that.
I know nothing about generators and not a huge amount about engines but I found the channel by accident and now I'm hooked and I don't know why!! Hello from the UK keep up the great work
Well, in the event you decide to begin working on small engines/machinery. You have one of the most methodical and knowledgeable teachers on the web to provide examples of what to do. Cheers
Great video James, I love the re-power challenges! Those Subaru engines are great, I've owned several of the EX series and they are top notch. They have a superior timing chain design and I feel like these engines are underrated in terms of power output. They have solid guts and in my opinion, are equal to Honda's GX line. It's possible with break-in the engine will gain a little more power, but per the bonus footage, it appears it was holding nearly 5500 watts. The load bank is very helpful and that's a great addition to the channel.
They are one of the best engines as far a build quality goes.
Love the Honda GX series but these are in the same category 😊
Is it because honda and subaru are both japanese? I bet toyota would be up there if they made small engines.
Subaru engine are great; since 9 years, I have a EH72FI (28hp) running my 60'' wide snowblower (from rear 3pt hitch on a tractor to front mount) and since 9 years of snowblowing never miss a beat (I do care very well/maintain ALL my equipement). I live in Province of Québec, where we have 5 months/year snow cover ground and I have almost 1/2 mile of alley to clean.
If you hadn't bumped up the AVR and increased the output voltage it probably would have handled 5000 watts. I like your thinking. Load bank looks great, very professional.
that thumbnail really shows the contrast of just how much better looking those Robin blocks are compared to the briggs intek blocks. really love those subarus
A great video. As always with these videos you put out, I do learn something new on every one. For me, it was the epilog reminding that watts are a combination of volts and amps, so I will need to do the math before I draw conclusions... My 7000 watt generator here in the Philippines gets used on average at least once a week. Power here is considered a "nice to have" rather than a NEED to "have" for the general population. I attempt to provide full time service when on a project call to get new power plants and refinery systems started on first start up. I do some of it from here, via internet. So power and Internet is essential for me. I keep my generator ready to go at a moments notice. Your channel for me has been a real BIG help to diagnose where the little glitches are going to come from so I can remedy them before they become big. NOTHING resembling service or parts in this remote island, so I keep parts in my stocks. NOW, I need some of your testing equipment so I can do better at diagnosis.
Thanks for your very thorough descriptions.... NOT electrical at all in me, but Chemistry and flow hydraulics are my specialties... Hence the reply below on Caustic instead of Muriatic.
Ha ha, I wonder how many of us were shouting at the monitors trying to warn you about the ground wire you forgot!!
Hey James, great video, as usual.
Here’s a thought, try fabricating your own exhaust flange to fit a Subaru and then just weld it to any muffler you like.
This way you can use the Subaru more often, just a thought.
Again awesome job!!
Ray
Need to up my tooling a little. Would be great to repurpose the Briggs exhaust systems.
I think you don’t give your self enough credit. All you really need is a welder(which you have), angle grinder, drill or drill press and an attention for detail ( which you also have). Bingo Bango, you’re all set.
Maybe a engineer’s black book or a Machinery’s Hand Book if you’re unsure of some fabrication math but I have the utmost confidence that you would do an awesome job.
Keep up the awesome work James!!!
Ray Hanson
@@jcondon1 so how come you didn't just put on another Briggs?? cost ??
@@JOHNSMITH-if9jr I have not been able to source that engine new. Also price would likely be $900+
@@jcondon1 ok thanks
Another "Bob Ross of generators" masterpiece! I love the new load bank... Your generator videos were always great; with the new THD meter and the load bank, they have reached yet another plateau. PLEASE keep your neighbors happy so you can keep giving us JC fans this great content! Any plans to create a JC T-shirt, coffee cup, or ball cap in a merch store? 🤔
No plans for merch, but if someone wants to take the lead on it would let them.
Glad you fixed the heat shield. Lot of people probably would never have thought of that
I thought you were going to put a Subaru car engine in the unit. Then I realized how ridiculous that would be. Another good video!
I like your calmness and how detailed you are! that's why you have good results! well done!
That Briggs, I reckon a little application of muriatic acid, a new conrod and some gaskets should see running again. Possibly a new piston, but eminently rebuildable.
I guess the reason why the voltage was down just a little, was to avoid overloading the engine. As you say, the generator has an AVR, and the voltage doesn't sag, as would be the case in a non-regulated version.
That lift has to be the best improvement you have made to your shop. Thanks for the videos.
Interesting to see you reasoning your way through this engine swap. Gives you an idea what the people who do LS swaps of various other engines have to work out.
Aww, don't worry about the neighbors....they're probably just glad you're not trying to heat the outside anymore with your collection of heaters. 😄
It's hard to not generate a lot of heat when burning 5500W of power! 😅 One way would be to use the power to charge a large battery!
Hi James that lift was a great investment it save you from lots of back pain👍
After watching quite a few of your generator videos I’m no longer apprehensive about jumping in and working on them, I do have a background in small engines. I’m currently searching for one to tinker with.
I'm the same, after watching a bunch of James videos I feel comfortable enough to delve in too.
@@MiniLuv-1984Absolutely. The diagnosis process is the most difficult part as every symptom can be caused by several things. Repair, to me, is secondary as you at least are focused on only one section/part- usually. James makes it look easy. Im sure you'll do great. Good luck and enjoy!
Me too. Spotted a 5000 w Predator on Facebook marketplace for $80, and it’s on my way to camp.
The owner says ‘No power’ ‘Might need a new alternator.’
Heh heh…
@@williamfoote2888 Nice find...hopefully you get it up and running without too many expensive parts....
@@MiniLuv-1984 Me too…
I liked the epilogue.....no loose ends, nothing left unexplained.
Just washed a video of a guy trying to repair a carb on in a ryobi inverter generator and was the worst ever seen on you tube I can only hope you can see it. After finishing the repair, started up with surging alot, and said, their you go working great,which was ridiculous. Video on repair was awful. My friend you are the best in everything you do. Keep up your great work. Please take care. Freddy your best friend and fan all the way here in Puerto Rico 😂
Subaru (Robin, Fuji) may be the VERY BEST engine available. It has chain-driven overhead CAMSHAFT (More power out of less displacement) ... most others have cam in the crankcase. I have been fixing small-engines for many years and have only seen ONE Subaru/Robin failure.
Another great video, especially on this generator. Thanks again for your support. The tank bushings are in the mail along with a bonus, letter in package will explain.
An incredibly produced video, James. Such attention to detail and perfectionist.
When I've always brought a new generator, I've always fitted a good quality electronic tachometer, which is great for service intervals and rpm readouts.
Being a channel that's focused on generators and small engines, you should consider a video on building the ultimate sound deadening acoustic enclosure, which would be a great noise reduction and keep your neighbours as friends and not enemies
Think she around 5100 doing the maths on it? good job James ! Little john from the UK
Thanks for the watt clarification at the end. Nobody on TH-cam goes anywhere close to your level of detail.
Depending on the heat treatment and hardening of crank in bolt thread area, the manufacturer may use a +.003"-.005" oversize tap, allowing compensation for metal shrinkage or expansion in the bolt hole.
Great video, James! You made a unit that works. That’s what counts
Thanks for this video James! This is awesome to see and your videos help instill confidence in me. I’ve got a friend that blew up a 2,000 watt inverter generator (it had a knock from the factory and they told him to keep it). I’m going to try a 79cc predator swap on it just for a fun project. Thanks for your content, this is great!
Another save. Great catch at the end by using the math to verify the Watts.
That load bank is awesome!!!!
Great video. I'm here for the viewing of the internals of the broken engine , and I am not disappointed.
Nice job James, I appreciate your knowledge and the explanation at the end of the video.
Darn good meticulous work bud..very good
Odd but I have a Briggs & Stratton 1150 series 250cc on my generator it's rated at 11 Hp & 4375/3500 watts, so it makes you wonder just how close to the truth any of this stuff really is. Great video, shows just how important having all those spare parts around really is.
A word of caution, for distorted current (high THD) watts is no long just Volts x Amps. That gives you Apparent Power (VA). You need a proper wattmeter for the best accuracy. Adding a wattmeter to your nice compact resistive load setup would be a nice side project.
I can’t lie Subaru does make some good small engines. I’ve been having this 5.5 on a pump made for 10ish hp and it’s been used all the time for flooded basements.
Nice to see the load box implemented! And thanks again for recording THD and showing the wave form as it changes.
Due to thermal inefficiency, single cylinder 2 pole gensets have a 2HP for every 1000W ***under load*** relationship. This is an accepted rating within the portable generator manufacturing world.
So ideally you have a 4750 running watt generator. You may be able to push up to 5K but at the sacrifice of engine speed since the AVR is going to maintain output voltage given that the power head is sufficiently sized but the prime mover is not.
Great video is always James!
5k is definitely pushing that engine to the limit. Was hoping for a little more. Was hoping for 5250.
WARNING: Those potentiometers will develop dead spots. You need to run the pot back and forth a few times in the general area of the turns. BTW, you have a great set of videos that I have shared out to others.
Thanks
I believe potentiometers get dead spots from carbon buildup. People will turn the pot to wipe/clean them.
Thanks for another entertaining video James I would agree with the comment about adding a low oil shut off switch somewhere on this type of engine it might be a improvement.
I missed you carrying out all those heaters and lamps to load test James. Very swanky now, with your magic box load tester...😅😅😅😅 👌
Hello James.
As I am in generation and electrical apparatus service and repair. I do agree that someone that has no experience should not adjust while it is running. In the field it is not practical to adjust the AVR while not running, as we can set it once and move on to the next piece of equipment.
By the way the voltage to the field is not high voltage and is usually lower than 20 volts DC on smaller equipment. It is all ohms law. If you did have high voltage with low ohms the current would be so high that it would be more current than the AC current you are trying to supply.
Keep up the good work and keep the videos going.
Mike
There are a lot watching that have no business adjusting while running so I do not show it. But it can be done. Surprisingly a lot of Honda clones are over 100 Volts DC at the brushes.
I'm thinking some run in under load and possibly valve adjustment, you know it doesn't take much, this is a fresh engine and the internals are just getting comfortable with each other, should definitely carry 5k without issue
Hi James - well done again, congrats on getting to 130k subscribers ..................
You are good James! Darn good!
Great video nice to see another one saved
You are funny with that ground wire “mental block”. If I recall, you’ve reminded us about the ground wire in many other videos where you remove the power head.
When you did the video for the load test unit, I saw a faint circle next to the meters in the blank area; I assume it is a cut-out plate for a 4th meter/gauge in that panel = you could put a watt-meter in there
When will people learn not to buy anything with b/s names on it. ?
No low oil shut down is a must have on a generator period…. Thanks for video and info 😊
Your attention to detail is brilliant.
Wunderbar !! Ha As always James, superb work gives best results. 2 Thumbs up
Well you do a good job anyway James keep up the good work I learn something every time I watch your videos
Great job James as always. I'm curious to see how that Gen, would run 5kw of heaters, the old school hook them up way you used to do. You might be surprised and the AVR might be able to be turned down a bit for a few more amps into the equation.
Hi James, great job
Nice job, James. Thanks for sharing.
Awesome video again James. Your explanation at the end makes perfect sense.
thanks you or great at what you do thanks so much have fun
And you were either running a little lean on the idle circuit in the carb or the magneto needs adjusted tighter. It was Breaking up at lower RPMs. It did sound like it was spark related. I've bought quite a few new engines off of ebay. You should always go through them thoroughly before firing them up. They get bumped around pretty good in shipping.
1:04:26 When you said you were pulling 22 amps, that reading from the video has significant parallax error. If you were to find a still with it aligned perpendicularly (no parallax) it would probably read closer to 20 amps. That would put the engine just shy of 5000 W unfortunately.
Great work James as always 😊
Great video, was noticing the date code of 2012on the Briggs engine ,For being that old corrosion was at a minimum
Mixed and matched. Saved it.👍
Sir if you have any more exhaust gasket you have someone using a Lazer cutter or water cutter and make some flanges so you can cut off the flanges off the Honda muffler and weld on them
Why don’t you weld an angle on the Briggs exhaust so it comes out further? That should give you enough clearance?
I don't think you hit 22 amps James (actually I'm pretty sure :) )
Your photograph is from an angle and these meters need to be read straight ahead in order to make an accurate reading.
So most likely your reading was around 21 amps, still well above 5000W for a new engine that needs to broken in.
Awesome repair as always. Very informative.
Would love a tutorial on how the AVRs function.
Thanks James, another great video more please George in England 🇬🇧
I have one of these with a blown motor. Hole punched in the side. Going to try a Kohler swap.
Let's hope for the best, nice one, James
38:45 you see the Loctite. Just heat it up past 260C - 500F. That destroys the Loctite property.
If generators have to be level when in use, you could stick one of those cheap bubble levels on top, that show levelness in X and Y at the same time. Could be cheap insurance.
Super job as usual. Is there a risk using synthetic oil in an air cooled engine? You may be the only user who follows the suggested breakin procedure which is very admirable. 👍 As for calculating the Wattage, you are assuming your Ammeter is accurate.
Hi James great video once again, wondering where you got your torque wrench? And I have see you with the bore scope do you have part numbers?
Frankenstein gen set ...nice work Bro!
Frankenstein’s MONSTER genset.
Maybe you can have a clamp meter to accurately measure the current while using the new load tester so you can calculate an exact power value. Also, measure the voltage at the generator output rather than at the tester to remove the effect of any voltage drop over the cable (maybe you are already doing that).
Definitely need to come up with a better way of measuring the exact amount of power being pulled. The analog gauges although nice to look at are not great for exact measurements.
With pleasure seen in Haarlem Netherlands.
Sounds like you got a new mic? Sounds good been watching your videos since the beginning
Heat cycles do more than running at different speeds imo! Yes run on no load for a while then shut off and let completely cool. Then run on some load for while and let cool all the way off. Then run on even more load for a while then let cool. Change oil and send it!!!
Good stuff James.
Q: "What kind of generator do you have?"
A: "It's a Brigsubaratton" 🤣
Honda EU6500is
Very good. It was a long haul!
Oddly satisfying videos you make.
Have you attempted to fix/resolder the generator joints?? What was the outcome?
Is there an in-expensive way to “cleanup” the power / sinewave on no-inverter generators. During power outages a key appliance to keep powered is the refrigerator, and now common to have some type of control board. I believe I killed the LED light board while using the generator after a storm outage. Thanks, great channel
There is not an easy way unfortunately
I believe you've done this sort of swap a few years ago. As long as the end result is a reliable working machine, it's all good. I'll admit it's a bit weird to have a non-briggs motor on a briggs branded product.
The b/s lowers the value of it big time, but it’s still going to be a lot better unit now 😊
Enjoyed it. Thanks for sharing
nice job, most people would have simply said "close enough"...lol, not you, you would have been up all night wondering about that power issue.
Main jets play a big factor on horsepower ratings you could have the same engine same cc ect but if it was me I'd go up one to two sizes bigger on the main jet and it should handle it. I've gotten away with that before besides changing camshafts out depending upon brand and series of engines but like I said try a larger main jet.
Like your style. Its the worst when people stage videos.
Would have liked to see the inside of the briggs. A worksite bought a new concrete mixer with a robin 4 stroke. After about 5 hours use spread over a week or so, it developed a knock. Didn't get to findout what happened, but have seen a number of small 4 strokes just undid their own big end bearing bolts and flew apart. Apathy on behalf of assembly workers. Bought a 69 Valiant Regal (Aussie model) with a blown 225- took it apart to find the nuts on number 2 conrod came loose only to slightly crack the block, enough to destroy the motor though.
Awsum Job Man !!! And great job editing tooo !!! 😉😎
That exhaust looks the same as a B&S 9HP Vanguard engine exhaust, if you have one take a look.
All to often you see the variable in the horsepower dictated by the size of the jetting or the carb on the engine. I am sure your aware of this but many are not. The CC of the engine can be exact, the stroke, and just by changing the carb and maybe the spring on the governor it will be up a couple hp without detriment effects on the engine longevity.
The first thing I thought of when I saw that oil is that it looks almost unused. I'm wondering if maybe it ran out of oil, the engine blew, then someone tried putting more oil into it thinking that maybe it was just seized?
Mr Condon, I enjoy your videos very much. I have learned much about small engines from your channel. I especially like the generator content. Do you have a video explaining how an auto choke works on a Homelite hg5000? I looked and I can’t find any video or website help.
It’s the pull choke that has a small hose with check valve going behind the carb. It can also be found on some Hondas and clones. That info could be good for a video? Thanks.
Never really spoke much about it. Will try and do so the next time I get one. In a nut shell, when the engine is not running the choke is on. When running, there is a vacuum created in the intake manifold. The small hose is connected on one end to the intake manifold where it pulls a vacuum when the engine is running and that actuates a vacuum servo that open the choke. As long as the engine is running, the choke is held open. When off the choke returns to closed. A lot of times the system does not work well because the linkage gets a little tangled up.
Adding a DPM with Watts to the load-bank should be easy. Amazon sells them for less than $50. Most measure power-factor too, so the Watts are expressed in real-power.
I think you could make the necessary adapter for another muffler.
Yes 22 Amps by 240 volts is 5280 watts. It was interesting to see it fail at that point under load. I am surprised you did not open up the valve cover and double check the opening and closing specs of the in and out exhaust valves. Would it take that much time?
Never known any Video from James that does not help someone...!