I suspected you were going to take it apart to make some improvements, and it's nice because it's the first time I've seen one take it apart, which allows me to see how it's done inside and it's very interesting. Very good video.
Congratulations Good deal man did you score the Black Friday deal. Great price. Mine had a leaky pump. It was caused by a missing spacer between the o-ring and motor on the pump. Eaglemach sent me all I needed and a spare motor even. Keep I touch if you need help. I’ve also got a sweet blade guard design I made if you’ve got a printer. Also you’ll be wanting to switch your channels around for easy operation. Mixing drive motors on one stick and pump on demand are both huge plus and run time on this monster dozer.
@@thatsmyrc I did couldn’t pass it up. Thanks man I will if something comes up. I plan on doing the same with the controls. After watching your video I’m gonna do a full run down on everything make sure everything is tight and lock tightened that needs to be. Do you have and Instagram
@@KC-7mm lol I figured on Black Friday. Didn’t have it last year and I’m kicking myself for not getting something now. But I just picked up the 360L. And in on a few other builds. I want the lxy skid steer so bad but im on the fence about a tracked loader lesu is coming out with one or a faroe. Im building a few skids now and a wicked Ertl tractor to keep me entertained
Good video, was thinking of getting a fan & put right infront of grill to blow on the esc's . Nice much cleaner looking with out all that , room to add things & room to put in battery. Grab your front ideler wheel & see if it moves to the side both ways, mine does & I've got an idea how to fix it.
@@thatsmyrc where the shaft goes into the ideler wheel assembly, on the bottom side there is a rubber cushion, its got a screw - bolt there. I tightened mine up & still moves. Wher the rubber cushion sets there's a recess for rubber cushion. Im going to drill & tap 2 holes, one inline with edge of recess. I do believe that will help to secure it much better & blue locktite set screws. For the other where the shaft goes into undercarriage rail , do one of 2 things. Wrap up the shaft a few times tight with surandwrap & mix up epoxy or jb weld & poure it in the gap , but you gotta make sure to leave the spring on & wrap the hole thing . Probably the best bet would to be have 2 shafts made that fit snug on both ends., I dont have a metal lath.
@@terryperrott9913 😬 JB weld not going to go that route. If anything a 3d printed sleeve to just take the smig of wiggle out of idler piston or rubber Oring/ looms band etc could fool the wiggle. But my guess it wiggles also if you mail something hard this give room if not I bet stock tracks would take a beating and snap like crackers on the pins 😅.
A feller in our RC club has been having this issue with his dozer. Sometime he has to take a screw driver, & stick between the tensioner & body to make the idler arm move out, & tighten the tracks. HOPEFULLY he'll see this! I'll be sure to let him know about the comments in this video.
@@thatsmyrc yes, or if you have a metal lathe , chuck it up & cut in 2 slots so a oring to set in to stay inplace , oring stlot towards end & towards front. Oring thing would keep out all dirt from getting in there & making a mess If you go the sleeve route how would you keep it inplace? If you go the sleeve route please try & if it works I be intreasted in purchasing.
What's up! That's my rc! How's your evening?? That video on the rc4wd Quick connector is truly 👌 badass video I use a metal gear servo for the Quick connector, but my question is! Can you solder both driving escs together??? I'm going to use a rc4wd truck sound unit! Your professional feedback is always appreciated.
Blackdog lets see some action of your rigs :-) As for connecting the two escs. Yes thats not a problem they are both running off the same battery. But they are on different channels still correct? Its a must that even on dump trucks have 2 escs. One powers the drive motor one powers the hydraulic motor for hydraulics all on same source of power. Im hoping Im answering the correct answer for what I think is the correct question your asking lol.. This is for your drive motors for the dxr2 correct?
@@thatsmyrc yes! It's for the rc4wd bulldozer dxr2! And I'm going to get that soon! I have a custom tamiya grand hauler heavy hauler I can do on a video 📹 😀.
@@blackdawgrc8425 cool 👍🏼 the dozer souls already be wired up w/ the esc’s now I see what your saying about the concerns with one sound unit. As far as making the sound mimic the direction of both esc’s same time. Because let’s say your turning. The sound unit will be going nuts because it’s reading two different signals. Forward/ backwards. Usually everyone puts a servonaut system for sound to wired into. It’s late let me scratch on this subject and think if there’s a way too fool one sound unit for two esc’s I’m not sure there is yet I’m I’m hitting the sack 🛌
I just received my dozer and 360 earth digger. I just tore into mine I’m not gonna run them until I get 2 filters. Found a metallic shavings in the both oil tanks. Flushed them out. going to put oil coolers in both of them. I just received SMR sound module don’t know how to hook it up there was no instructions. I’ve looked online but there’s no good videos on how to install it. if you could do a video on that that would be great.thanks!
sorry for delay and yes I agree the shavings can be a common issue in these construction equipment. filter are a good choice yet I haven't ran any in mine yet 8-/. I do flush out the system before I run first start ups. The smr units I would like to get for the dozer. people say it is a amazing unit for the dozer. thanks for checking video out good luck on your rigs and Id like to see some updates as well 8-)
I thought about that when ripping it down I had gorilla glued each pin. I will be getting steel tracks anyway soon. Sorry for delay been slammed w/ responsibilities priorities first
@@pnwRC. thanks man been doing gardening work for wife in spare time, Right now I have been tearing down my dozer to bare bones re greasing loktite and addressing flaws in designed drive gears. In the process of adding my lights. Re routed vent tube, made it more flexible using nitro fuel line and longer, drilled through top of foe tank. Adding a aluminum fuel stop plug. The line can now be pulled up and over if needed for draining or vent for filling. Then slipped back down for looks of another fuel cap. It works amazing, I now can tilt the dozer on its side when working on and not a drop spills out. And the vent is needed when filling oil. More explaining maybe in a video. Dozer only offers 3mm leds for machine. I have designed 5mm light buckets to enhance brightness and scaled look. I have had the hydraulic block pump detached from plates. Reason being I noticed when dozer sat on bench over night it had
Thanks bud I’ve been so busy this spring w/ gardening chickens and putting up a pool for kiddos haven’t had time lately to mess with my own toys. This dozer is a monster but a must definitely go through entire rig as to prevent failure to drive gears down road. I have put full steel custom tracks from a guy in Australia and steel handrails. This beast weighs in If I remember right under 70lbs. It pulls my 75lbs 10yr olds around on carpet with ease when they grab ahold of the ripper that they wrap with a sock. It’s has that much pull force that the sock protect their hands from hurting on the metal ripper arm lol fun memories down the road for them 😂
Haha you're worse then me!! I thought I tore shit apart but I like it. Thats awesome.. Don't forget to take the caps of the finals too and locktite those screws. Those ones are really bad from the factory and a loose final can be costly. Also get those new tracks on order cause those pins you popped out are going to start working out immediately. I run a giant battery which needs that length space where you installed one of the esc's. O and one more thing the tank that you have hanging of the back is just a mock tank. Its just a solid piece of aluminum. The actual tank is where the vent tube comes up and out of. That's why the filler has a hose that goes down in the tank.
Thanks bud yep I too love ripping things apart. I’m confuse with what you mentioned about loktite the finals? I knew the tank on top is a dummy solid block of aluminum. It made it clear when the tube ran down to the lower one that straddles over the drive motors. I’ll be making a order for those tracks real soon. I can see the issue plain as day. I’m thinking about clear gorilla glue on dab on backside of pins to help hold from spinning out until the good ones get here. The tracks are like pot metal not a solid pour metal. How do I know this lol. One of my spares that came with dozer was so jacked up out of square on bottom brackets “not even close to be fit for use” so I investigated 🕵🏻♂️ I broke it too see how strong it was not very when you clamp a pair of pliers between the two mounting holes. Snapped it like a hard boiled 🥚 🥴
Ps those esc’s in this placement allow a battery to still clear up the middle all the way to the front grill and clear up under the cab as far as needed. Only issue I could see in the angle of which depending how overly long if not a reg battery would be to make the angle downward. Yet that angle won’t change any from what I’ve done it’s still the same as dropping a battery as out of box. Now It’s just makes possible to put a fatter battery in and rest on tray rather than all that bulky wiring and thickness of esc’s
@@thatsmyrc I just use a giant 7600 and the only way the length will fit is if i lay it caddy corner touching the front grill and then almost touching the lid when it closes too. Its not possible to slide a long batter under the cab unless you came in from the front grill area. Now granted im using a battey that is huge. 138 x 46 x 37 mm. 3s 7600mah. it runs for over an hour!! lol. You will definitely find a mear mortal battery that will fit just fine. Its hard to find huge battery's that are fatter instead of longer. I spent hours looking for a huge fat battery and they always get longer when the get larger capacity. If you find a fat square battery please let me know. Now the other thought i had is to build a square battery or one that fits that compartment perfectly with 18650s
@@thatsmyrc On the final drives i just mean to locktite the six screws that hold each final drive cap on. Also maybe pop the final drive caps off and inspect in there. On one of my final drives there was a cross threaded screw inside from the factory which broke off in the final. All sorts of crunching 2 hours in. I disassembled the final on the left and that's when I found the cross threaded screw and even a repair they tried to do (At the factory) with soft solder!! Fortunately all of the planetary gears are hardened so i was able to rebuild it and get all the screw chunks out of it. RC4WD also sent me a new full gear set for 1 final.
@@rcscalebuilders8268 you know the esc’s do have enough wire lead to move to the top of grill panel. I know one side for sure I was almost going to mount it there. My battery I’m using from my 870k 11.1v 5200 50c. For testing I might go bigger also for this big dog
Its been awhile ago but Im pretty sure I just used a 5mm rubber fuel hose. It had more flexibility also. This is the vent hose you where asking about correct?
Hi I am in the process now. As I found so far right outer ring/ inner gear is suppose to have two cylinder bearings used for locking the outer gear gear from spinning. Well right side had one still worked but only one. The bearing size is at 2mmx8mm. As what I will use to replace the missing bearing is a hex pin for your avg 12mm hex nut for locking wheels to axles. Those are 2mmx10 I will grind down w/ dermal to meet match of existing at 8mm. 🤓
@@thatsmyrc You are the best ! can you make a video ? my enlish is not so good and the google translator too. :)) Is the big needle bearing a standart bearing ?
@@inagerli sorry for delay been extremely busy the main drive gear is steel it rides on the hub which is zinc potted metal or some sort of aluminum cast. Inner planetary gears etc are all harden steel.
Wow man! Big plunge! Just saw her! Been looking but couldnt do it.. Lol and here i was looking to ask u a question about a much simpler rc..! Was wandering what u think would be better for a Working cement mixer, a bruder build or a huiana upgrade? Great vid as always man! Think one day i will, maybe not for some time tho...
Hey man sorry for delay slammed with work etc as for working concrete truck not sure? Bruder scale is a bit bigger than Huina. I’ve never seen a Huina concrete truck. The plus to Huina is it must be a Rc already as Bruder is a complete worm hole of creating it to a Rc before then thinking about a working tumble drum for concrete. A Bruder conversion can get expensive. Might give a Huina a shot first. It would be interesting to watch the build
@@thatsmyrc thanks for your reply, no worries.. So huiana it is then.. Im thinking a cement mixer attachment for the hook lift.. Then when the sun gets a bit stronger.. I think i wana build a road, 1:14 with the trucks.. Cool thanks for the advice man, il keep u updated!
thanks buddy sorry for delay didn't see this
I suspected you were going to take it apart to make some improvements, and it's nice because it's the first time I've seen one take it apart, which allows me to see how it's done inside and it's very interesting. Very good video.
Jus got a servonaut esc for mine and wow what a difference ditch the stock esc's mine blew up just by turning it on
I hear I want to get that system for mine as well. do you have a good link to get one..My stock escs been holding up so far.
Lol took it apart already love how explore everything you get and customize it always comes out great
Thanks bud it’s now or never lol once it’s dirtied up not as pleasant to work on
Good day
jumping right into it, putting your skills to work. I know it will come out nice.
Lol thanks yep dive in head first nothing frightens me it’s going to be killer when it’s done up right
Glad I found this video I just purchased the same dozer plan on doing the same things to mine
Congratulations Good deal man did you score the Black Friday deal. Great price. Mine had a leaky pump. It was caused by a missing spacer between the o-ring and motor on the pump. Eaglemach sent me all I needed and a spare motor even. Keep I touch if you need help. I’ve also got a sweet blade guard design I made if you’ve got a printer. Also you’ll be wanting to switch your channels around for easy operation. Mixing drive motors on one stick and pump on demand are both huge plus and run time on this monster dozer.
@@thatsmyrc I did couldn’t pass it up. Thanks man I will if something comes up. I plan on doing the same with the controls. After watching your video I’m gonna do a full run down on everything make sure everything is tight and lock tightened that needs to be. Do you have and Instagram
@@KC-7mm lol I figured on Black Friday. Didn’t have it last year and I’m kicking myself for not getting something now. But I just picked up the 360L. And in on a few other builds. I want the lxy skid steer so bad but im on the fence about a tracked loader lesu is coming out with one or a faroe. Im building a few skids now and a wicked Ertl tractor to keep me entertained
Beautiful piece of craftsmenship, pretty intricate 🙏🏜😁
Thanks buddy and yes very intricate, yet to me everything is only nuts 🥜 and 🔩 🤣 ripping it apart is just as much fun as driving
What a nice piece of Rc Equipment
Thanks Bud it’s a heavy unit and interesting to break down
cool stuff,awesome video and dozer
Thanks it’s a cool piece
great adjust and beautiful so when 2 see her work👌 thx master of the magic touch
Thanks man
Pretty cool teardown. Looking forward to seeing what you do with this one
Thanks bud been busy w/ everyday life sorry for delay working on this rig when I get the spare time
Nice video and skills 😻👏
Thank you Rene putting my skills to the test are just as much fun as driving
Good video, was thinking of getting a fan & put right infront of grill to blow on the esc's . Nice much cleaner looking with out all that , room to add things & room to put in battery.
Grab your front ideler wheel & see if it moves to the side both ways, mine does & I've got an idea how to fix it.
Hey Terry yea it’s got play what we’re you thinking sleeving the piston or O-ring
@@thatsmyrc where the shaft goes into the ideler wheel assembly, on the bottom side there is a rubber cushion, its got a screw - bolt there. I tightened mine up & still moves. Wher the rubber cushion sets there's a recess for rubber cushion. Im going to drill & tap 2 holes, one inline with edge of recess. I do believe that will help to secure it much better & blue locktite set screws.
For the other where the shaft goes into undercarriage rail , do one of 2 things. Wrap up the shaft a few times tight with surandwrap & mix up epoxy or jb weld & poure it in the gap , but you gotta make sure to leave the spring on & wrap the hole thing . Probably the best bet would to be have 2 shafts made that fit snug on both ends., I dont have a metal lath.
@@terryperrott9913 😬 JB weld not going to go that route. If anything a 3d printed sleeve to just take the smig of wiggle out of idler piston or rubber Oring/ looms band etc could fool the wiggle. But my guess it wiggles also if you mail something hard this give room if not I bet stock tracks would take a beating and snap like crackers on the pins 😅.
A feller in our RC club has been having this issue with his dozer. Sometime he has to take a screw driver, & stick between the tensioner & body to make the idler arm move out, & tighten the tracks. HOPEFULLY he'll see this! I'll be sure to let him know about the comments in this video.
@@thatsmyrc yes, or if you have a metal lathe , chuck it up & cut in 2 slots so a oring to set in to stay inplace , oring stlot towards end & towards front. Oring thing would keep out all dirt from getting in there & making a mess If you go the sleeve route how would you keep it inplace?
If you go the sleeve route please try & if it works I be intreasted in purchasing.
What's up! That's my rc! How's your evening?? That video on the rc4wd Quick connector is truly 👌 badass video I use a metal gear servo for the Quick connector, but my question is! Can you solder both driving escs together??? I'm going to use a rc4wd truck sound unit! Your professional feedback is always appreciated.
Blackdog lets see some action of your rigs :-) As for connecting the two escs. Yes thats not a problem they are both running off the same battery. But they are on different channels still correct? Its a must that even on dump trucks have 2 escs. One powers the drive motor one powers the hydraulic motor for hydraulics all on same source of power. Im hoping Im answering the correct answer for what I think is the correct question your asking lol.. This is for your drive motors for the dxr2 correct?
@@thatsmyrc yes! It's for the rc4wd bulldozer dxr2! And I'm going to get that soon! I have a custom tamiya grand hauler heavy hauler I can do on a video 📹 😀.
@@blackdawgrc8425 cool 👍🏼 the dozer souls already be wired up w/ the esc’s now I see what your saying about the concerns with one sound unit. As far as making the sound mimic the direction of both esc’s same time. Because let’s say your turning. The sound unit will be going nuts because it’s reading two different signals. Forward/ backwards. Usually everyone puts a servonaut system for sound to wired into. It’s late let me scratch on this subject and think if there’s a way too fool one sound unit for two esc’s I’m not sure there is yet I’m I’m hitting the sack 🛌
Bonjour mon ami 👍😉😍Hi friend
Great stuff 👍I enjoy watching your job 💪Congrats buddy good morning of France 👍🇫🇷😉
Thank you for checking it out I appreciate your support always
I just received my dozer and 360 earth digger. I just tore into mine I’m not gonna run them until I get 2 filters. Found a metallic shavings in the both oil tanks. Flushed them out. going to put oil coolers in both of them. I just received SMR sound module don’t know how to hook it up there was no instructions. I’ve looked online but there’s no good videos on how to install it. if you could do a video on that that would be great.thanks!
sorry for delay and yes I agree the shavings can be a common issue in these construction equipment. filter are a good choice yet I haven't ran any in mine yet 8-/. I do flush out the system before I run first start ups. The smr units I would like to get for the dozer. people say it is a amazing unit for the dozer. thanks for checking video out good luck on your rigs and Id like to see some updates as well 8-)
Ron, some lock tight, the REAL Loktite brand, works well to prevent those pins from constantly coming out!
I thought about that when ripping it down I had gorilla glued each pin. I will be getting steel tracks anyway soon. Sorry for delay been slammed w/ responsibilities priorities first
@@thatsmyrc No worries man, Life happens. We all have to deal with priorities. TH-cam takes a back seat to life's situations!
@@pnwRC. thanks man been doing gardening work for wife in spare time, Right now I have been tearing down my dozer to bare bones re greasing loktite and addressing flaws in designed drive gears. In the process of adding my lights. Re routed vent tube, made it more flexible using nitro fuel line and longer, drilled through top of foe tank. Adding a aluminum fuel stop plug. The line can now be pulled up and over if needed for draining or vent for filling. Then slipped back down for looks of another fuel cap. It works amazing, I now can tilt the dozer on its side when working on and not a drop spills out. And the vent is needed when filling oil. More explaining maybe in a video. Dozer only offers 3mm leds for machine. I have designed 5mm light buckets to enhance brightness and scaled look. I have had the hydraulic block pump detached from plates. Reason being I noticed when dozer sat on bench over night it had
As usual, a great video! I’ll certainly use this down the road when I get one of these. Thanks!!
Thanks bud I’ve been so busy this spring w/ gardening chickens and putting up a pool for kiddos haven’t had time lately to mess with my own toys. This dozer is a monster but a must definitely go through entire rig as to prevent failure to drive gears down road. I have put full steel custom tracks from a guy in Australia and steel handrails. This beast weighs in If I remember right under 70lbs. It pulls my 75lbs 10yr olds around on carpet with ease when they grab ahold of the ripper that they wrap with a sock. It’s has that much pull force that the sock protect their hands from hurting on the metal ripper arm lol fun memories down the road for them 😂
Hi would you happen to know the screw size for the top canopy on top of the dozer it has two(4 lb top section,lost mine) ty
Sorry man don’t know it’s been some time ago. It’s going to be metric on thread count and bolt.
Haha you're worse then me!! I thought I tore shit apart but I like it. Thats awesome.. Don't forget to take the caps of the finals too and locktite those screws. Those ones are really bad from the factory and a loose final can be costly. Also get those new tracks on order cause those pins you popped out are going to start working out immediately. I run a giant battery which needs that length space where you installed one of the esc's. O and one more thing the tank that you have hanging of the back is just a mock tank. Its just a solid piece of aluminum. The actual tank is where the vent tube comes up and out of. That's why the filler has a hose that goes down in the tank.
Thanks bud yep I too love ripping things apart. I’m confuse with what you mentioned about loktite the finals? I knew the tank on top is a dummy solid block of aluminum. It made it clear when the tube ran down to the lower one that straddles over the drive motors. I’ll be making a order for those tracks real soon. I can see the issue plain as day. I’m thinking about clear gorilla glue on dab on backside of pins to help hold from spinning out until the good ones get here. The tracks are like pot metal not a solid pour metal. How do I know this lol. One of my spares that came with dozer was so jacked up out of square on bottom brackets “not even close to be fit for use” so I investigated 🕵🏻♂️ I broke it too see how strong it was not very when you clamp a pair of pliers between the two mounting holes. Snapped it like a hard boiled 🥚 🥴
Ps those esc’s in this placement allow a battery to still clear up the middle all the way to the front grill and clear up under the cab as far as needed. Only issue I could see in the angle of which depending how overly long if not a reg battery would be to make the angle downward. Yet that angle won’t change any from what I’ve done it’s still the same as dropping a battery as out of box. Now It’s just makes possible to put a fatter battery in and rest on tray rather than all that bulky wiring and thickness of esc’s
@@thatsmyrc I just use a giant 7600 and the only way the length will fit is if i lay it caddy corner touching the front grill and then almost touching the lid when it closes too. Its not possible to slide a long batter under the cab unless you came in from the front grill area. Now granted im using a battey that is huge. 138 x 46 x 37 mm. 3s 7600mah. it runs for over an hour!! lol. You will definitely find a mear mortal battery that will fit just fine. Its hard to find huge battery's that are fatter instead of longer. I spent hours looking for a huge fat battery and they always get longer when the get larger capacity. If you find a fat square battery please let me know. Now the other thought i had is to build a square battery or one that fits that compartment perfectly with 18650s
@@thatsmyrc On the final drives i just mean to locktite the six screws that hold each final drive cap on. Also maybe pop the final drive caps off and inspect in there. On one of my final drives there was a cross threaded screw inside from the factory which broke off in the final. All sorts of crunching 2 hours in. I disassembled the final on the left and that's when I found the cross threaded screw and even a repair they tried to do (At the factory) with soft solder!! Fortunately all of the planetary gears are hardened so i was able to rebuild it and get all the screw chunks out of it. RC4WD also sent me a new full gear set for 1 final.
@@rcscalebuilders8268 you know the esc’s do have enough wire lead to move to the top of grill panel. I know one side for sure I was almost going to mount it there. My battery I’m using from my 870k 11.1v 5200 50c. For testing I might go bigger also for this big dog
What size tube did you use for the hydraulic oil tank ?
Its been awhile ago but Im pretty sure I just used a 5mm rubber fuel hose. It had more flexibility also. This is the vent hose you where asking about correct?
@@thatsmyrc yes. Thank you
Hi, You can maybe disassambly the gear ?
Hi I am in the process now. As I found so far right outer ring/ inner gear is suppose to have two cylinder bearings used for locking the outer gear gear from spinning. Well right side had one still worked but only one. The bearing size is at 2mmx8mm. As what I will use to replace the missing bearing is a hex pin for your avg 12mm hex nut for locking wheels to axles. Those are 2mmx10 I will grind down w/ dermal to meet match of existing at 8mm. 🤓
@@thatsmyrc You are the best ! can you make a video ? my enlish is not so good and the google translator too. :)) Is the big needle bearing a standart bearing ?
@@thatsmyrc Is the main wheel of steel or zinc?
@@inagerli sorry for delay been extremely busy the main drive gear is steel it rides on the hub which is zinc potted metal or some sort of aluminum cast. Inner planetary gears etc are all harden steel.
@@thatsmyrc can you measure the big needle bearing? Ist it a standart bearing?
Very nice 👍👍👍!!!!!!
Thanks
Wow man! Big plunge! Just saw her! Been looking but couldnt do it.. Lol and here i was looking to ask u a question about a much simpler rc..!
Was wandering what u think would be better for a Working cement mixer, a bruder build or a huiana upgrade?
Great vid as always man! Think one day i will, maybe not for some time tho...
Hey man sorry for delay slammed with work etc as for working concrete truck not sure? Bruder scale is a bit bigger than Huina.
I’ve never seen a Huina concrete truck. The plus to Huina is it must be a Rc already as Bruder is a complete worm hole of creating it to a Rc before then thinking about a working tumble drum for concrete. A Bruder conversion can get expensive. Might give a Huina a shot first. It would be interesting to watch the build
@@thatsmyrc thanks for your reply, no worries..
So huiana it is then.. Im thinking a cement mixer attachment for the hook lift.. Then when the sun gets a bit stronger.. I think i wana build a road, 1:14 with the trucks..
Cool thanks for the advice man, il keep u updated!