Hey, thanks for this video, I restored one of these with Andy Tube's series on it. I use it daily for light leather. What's there not to love! The nut in the middle is for the pan. Last person that removed the pan, put it in the socket after taking the pan off. It has all metal gears and they have old grease that must be cleaned and replaced. I make 100% wool spool pin pads and foot pads for this one and other Singers too.
I learned to sew on the 401 in home economics, This machine is called a slant needle. These were helpful for new students as they were learning to sew making the needle easier to see. Great Machine I bought one couple years ago to add to my collection. I’ve sewn for years.
I have the 401 and it stitches beautifully, it’s a workhorse. You can’t beat a Singer. I have a newer singer that is a workhorse, also. I enjoy your videos, so informative.
Thanks for this post. I got this machine from my mother in law and after some tlc it runs like yours in this post. I purchased all the extra cams for an Ebay vendor and I'm very happy with this model. I keep it handy in my sewing room along with my Vintage Singer AF 1941 with original table. I also gave that one some tlc and it sews like new after it was gifted to me as a table only display. Happy sewing!
Having looked at your bobbin tension spring mine was bent out of shape "too mush curve" it was done with abuse of roughly removing a full bobbin. After I found the flat spring had snapped between the screws I turned the triangular end bit around 180' with the fixing screw around to face the other way to act as a clamp so that the adjustment screw would work and it sews quite well. SORRY for all the comments, hope it helps someone.
That brown, dried on oil is probably 3-in-1. It was (maybe still is) a very common, light household oil that has a nasty tendency to dry out and gum up pretty quickly, and will almost certainly turn into a crusty varnish like that. WD-40 will also do the same, and would be my second guess. It's kind of frustrating in a way because just basic household mineral oil (which most households would also have) would do a great job for lubricating domestic sewing machines, and wouldn't gum up over time, if actual sewing machine oil wasn't readily available. By the way, I've found that ammonia does an amazing job of cutting through old, dried-on oil without harming paint or labels. I cleaned up a Singer 251 from 1962 that was caked in brown oil stains all over, and it came out looking like it just rolled off the factory floor.
I have a 431G which I adore. It's in top condition and sews very well. It's not the most beautiful machine I've got, I prefer the older black looks. They just inspire me more. But it's a machine in a class of its own. I had the same issue getting the feet out. They were STUCK.
401G Today I found my lower bobbin tension spring was broken between the tiny screws, I flipped the end bit around and clamped it down and it works. I think I will get one of my spare flat springs for a different machine and my Dremel to modify the hole centres etc. It is surprising what you can do with a "fudge factor" to get an old machine to work. I have a lot of industrial machine spares to mess with. Wish I could put pictures here for inspiration but UTube will delete my comment.
WD-40 in a machine will gum up like that over time. Any of the gear-driven, all metal machines like this are going to sew hands down, better than any modern plastic one. Well worth the time to rejuvenate!
3 in 1 used to be vegetable oil. Alcohol would dissolve that but I’ve had really old machines bound up and Singer recommends a special brand of cleaner which turned out to be nothing more than mineral spirits. Sewing machine oil is mineral oil and dissolves with mineral spirits. I should have figured that out way before I did. I’m passing that along. I like your videos and maybe it will help somebody else out.
This is an excellent video, just as ALL of your videos are!!! Your teaching method of "hands on" is such a gift to us who desire to learn, repair & improve the working quality of these old diamonds in the rough!!! Thank you for that!!! ... Have you or can you create a video on Cams? What they are, how they work, what they look like, thier versatility with multiple machines, etc ? ... If you have or can, we would all be so thrilled to learn about Cams from your channel sir💖😊
"Swan Lighter Fluid" SLF I am sure does not damage the paint or shellac in the UK TESCO {worth a read if you search} sell it for filing petrol zippo lighters. The Swan stuff is a bit like Kerosene that Singer told us to use in the old manuals. SLF evaporates slower than Methylated spirit = Denatured alcohol I add mine to screw joints with a cocktail stick or small screwdriver. Back in the 1980s we had many spray on release fluids.
Back again sorry 401G can be converted to treadle there is a plugged hold in the front right of the base for the belt BUT the hand wheel would need to be changed. It is interesting seeing the the difference between the German and USA versions of these machines.
Sorry I am back, The other problem I have was when you lifted the foot the tension release was hardly activated ? I end a shim of sheet metal in a U shape and slipped it over the arm to push on the tension release pin, I guess the machine is a bit worn-out my guess it the foot release was never oiled and no longer lifts the tension release arm enough. In the past I have added a bit of "2 part epoxy lump" to the bobbin indicator bar to allow it to separate the tension disks.
So many comments, and no one is mentioning that the 400-500 slantomatics are class 66 machines, and in this demo this 403 gets loaded with a class 15 bobbin.
My swing are was seized, I stood my my machine on the hand wheel and both ends were they slide in an out with the fire lighter fluid and eventually with a bit of manual gentle pressure it was freed up and sews well. Tip for me to adjust the stitch dial I fine it better to set the stitch width to ZERO makes it was easier to rotate the dials. BTW the 631 had a button on the needle bar area to help remove the spring pressure on the swing bar so that you could select a stitch pattern. all the best to all I hope this is my last comment ;-))
i have a 401 a that i cleaned up. where and in what order would i need to get it set and timed up like new? does that make sense? i assume whatever adjustments that need to be done, need to be a certain order but i have no clue.. any help?
These rarely need timing. The main reason for timing to go out is somebody tries to time them. Clean and Oil, put in a fresh needle fixes many many machines.
They don't make them like this anymore. I realize from your video, thay this machine top loading bobbin drive mechanism was direct drive which is way more stronger unlike today's (timing) belt-drive system. Today's machines top loading bobbin system are built driven and they lose timing very easily if the materials is too heavy for the machine. Those classic Singer Machines from those days were built to sew almost anything and were built to last.
That thing is either, not used much or well cared for. good looking lil machine. Would make a great replacement for a Singer " heavy duty". prolly has a bit more balls too.
Ethyl or drinking alcohol is the best for skin but an expensive way to go. Isopropyl alcohol or rubbing is next best, and then methyl or methyl hydrate is bad because it's toxic and absorbed thru the skin. All the alcohols disolve shellac so bad on old finishes. I use Naptha or colman fuel. Dries fast with no smell and doesn't hurt finishes. Mild irritant. Diesel smells bad, and oily rags are a fire hazard.
Why worry about it getting on your skin when for years you put it straight into your bloodstream LOL!! Seriously, do you like alcohol better than kerosene to loosen stuck parts?
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My mother taught sewing at singer when the 401 and 403 were released. All sewers in my family had one. Fantastic machines.
🙏
Hey, thanks for this video, I restored one of these with Andy Tube's series on it. I use it daily for light leather. What's there not to love! The nut in the middle is for the pan. Last person that removed the pan, put it in the socket after taking the pan off. It has all metal gears and they have old grease that must be cleaned and replaced. I make 100% wool spool pin pads and foot pads for this one and other Singers too.
wool pads ... Nice!
I learned to sew on the 401 in home economics, This machine is called a slant needle. These were helpful for new students as they were learning to sew making the needle easier to see. Great Machine I bought one couple years ago to add to my collection. I’ve sewn for years.
💪
I have the 401 and it stitches beautifully, it’s a workhorse. You can’t beat a Singer. I have a newer singer that is a workhorse, also. I enjoy your videos, so informative.
I agree and thank you very much. 🙏
The rop fin is the best part.
Thanks for this post. I got this machine from my mother in law and after some tlc it runs like yours in this post. I purchased all the extra cams for an Ebay vendor and I'm very happy with this model. I keep it handy in my sewing room along with my Vintage Singer AF 1941 with original table. I also gave that one some tlc and it sews like new after it was gifted to me as a table only display. Happy sewing!
Having looked at your bobbin tension spring mine was bent out of shape "too mush curve" it was done with abuse of roughly removing a full bobbin.
After I found the flat spring had snapped between the screws I turned the triangular end bit around 180' with the fixing screw around to face the other way to act as a clamp so that the adjustment screw would work and it sews quite well. SORRY for all the comments, hope it helps someone.
Just a great demonstration. You work is always admired.
Thanks Mom.
Thanks for the syringe trick !
I usually use Q-tips, it works fine but sometimes it leaves lint.
That brown, dried on oil is probably 3-in-1. It was (maybe still is) a very common, light household oil that has a nasty tendency to dry out and gum up pretty quickly, and will almost certainly turn into a crusty varnish like that. WD-40 will also do the same, and would be my second guess.
It's kind of frustrating in a way because just basic household mineral oil (which most households would also have) would do a great job for lubricating domestic sewing machines, and wouldn't gum up over time, if actual sewing machine oil wasn't readily available.
By the way, I've found that ammonia does an amazing job of cutting through old, dried-on oil without harming paint or labels. I cleaned up a Singer 251 from 1962 that was caked in brown oil stains all over, and it came out looking like it just rolled off the factory floor.
I say good guesses and you are spot on about the mineral oil. 🙏
Thank you very much for the video. These machines still provide a lot of value and are currently fully functional.
I have a 431G which I adore. It's in top condition and sews very well. It's not the most beautiful machine I've got, I prefer the older black looks. They just inspire me more. But it's a machine in a class of its own.
I had the same issue getting the feet out. They were STUCK.
401G Today I found my lower bobbin tension spring was broken between the tiny screws, I flipped the end bit around and clamped it down and it works.
I think I will get one of my spare flat springs for a different machine and my Dremel to modify the hole centres etc. It is surprising what you can do with a "fudge factor" to get an old machine to work. I have a lot of industrial machine spares to mess with.
Wish I could put pictures here for inspiration but UTube will delete my comment.
WD-40 in a machine will gum up like that over time.
Any of the gear-driven, all metal machines like this are going to sew hands down, better than any modern plastic one. Well worth the time to rejuvenate!
👆
3 in 1 used to be vegetable oil. Alcohol would dissolve that but I’ve had really old machines bound up and Singer recommends a special brand of cleaner which turned out to be nothing more than mineral spirits. Sewing machine oil is mineral oil and dissolves with mineral spirits. I should have figured that out way before I did. I’m passing that along. I like your videos and maybe it will help somebody else out.
This is an excellent video, just as ALL of your videos are!!! Your teaching method of "hands on" is such a gift to us who desire to learn, repair & improve the working quality of these old diamonds in the rough!!! Thank you for that!!! ... Have you or can you create a video on Cams? What they are, how they work, what they look like, thier versatility with multiple machines, etc ? ... If you have or can, we would all be so thrilled to learn about Cams from your channel sir💖😊
Oh, thanks so much and thanks for the video topic suggestion. 🔥
Always enjoy your videos and the great hands on demonstrations, sewing machines are very interesting
Thank you very much!
"Swan Lighter Fluid" SLF I am sure does not damage the paint or shellac in the UK TESCO {worth a read if you search} sell it for filing petrol zippo lighters. The Swan stuff is a bit like Kerosene that Singer told us to use in the old manuals.
SLF evaporates slower than Methylated spirit = Denatured alcohol I add mine to screw joints with a cocktail stick or small screwdriver.
Back in the 1980s we had many spray on release fluids.
Great demonstration of a wonderful machine. Thanks for uploading! 👍
🙏
Back again sorry 401G can be converted to treadle there is a plugged hold in the front right of the base for the belt BUT the hand wheel would need to be changed.
It is interesting seeing the the difference between the German and USA versions of these machines.
Sorry I am back, The other problem I have was when you lifted the foot the tension release was hardly activated ? I end a shim of sheet metal in a U shape and slipped it over the arm to push on the tension release pin, I guess the machine is a bit worn-out my guess it the foot release was never oiled and no longer lifts the tension release arm enough.
In the past I have added a bit of "2 part epoxy lump" to the bobbin indicator bar to allow it to separate the tension disks.
So many comments, and no one is mentioning that the 400-500 slantomatics are class 66 machines, and in this demo this 403 gets loaded with a class 15 bobbin.
Good machine !
Is this considered a high or low shank. And what buttonhole attachments fit it?
It is neither. It is slant shank.
3 in 1 oil was pretty popular back then and will cause the brown gunk you see.
I suspect you may be right.
My 401 still works like a gem but my control foot overheats and I can't find a replacement any suggestions?
Try eBay. There are several national distributors on there with thousands of good reviews.
My swing are was seized, I stood my my machine on the hand wheel and both ends were they slide in an out with the fire lighter fluid and eventually with a bit of manual gentle pressure it was freed up and sews well.
Tip for me to adjust the stitch dial I fine it better to set the stitch width to ZERO makes it was easier to rotate the dials. BTW the 631 had a button on the needle bar area to help remove the spring pressure on the swing bar so that you could select a stitch pattern.
all the best to all
I hope this is my last comment ;-))
i have a 401 a that i cleaned up.
where and in what order would i need to get it set and timed up like new?
does that make sense?
i assume whatever adjustments that need to be done, need to be a certain order but i have no clue.. any help?
These rarely need timing. The main reason for timing to go out is somebody tries to time them. Clean and Oil, put in a fresh needle fixes many many machines.
well i over cleanrd one. i took stuff apart to clean it@@AlexanderDyer
Right when I typed in A-l-e-x... I get the notification..
They don't make them like this anymore. I realize from your video, thay this machine top loading bobbin drive mechanism was direct drive which is way more stronger unlike today's (timing) belt-drive system. Today's machines top loading bobbin system are built driven and they lose timing very easily if the materials is too heavy for the machine. Those classic Singer Machines from those days were built to sew almost anything and were built to last.
Comparing the 301a with this machine, this machine is versatile. However the machine noises are a bit overwhelming. I stay with the 301a
I like the weight and smoothness of the older models too.
That thing is either, not used much or well cared for. good looking lil machine. Would make a great replacement for a Singer " heavy duty". prolly has a bit more balls too.
😆
Ethyl or drinking alcohol is the best for skin but an expensive way to go. Isopropyl alcohol or rubbing is next best, and then methyl or methyl hydrate is bad because it's toxic and absorbed thru the skin. All the alcohols disolve shellac so bad on old finishes. I use Naptha or colman fuel. Dries fast with no smell and doesn't hurt finishes. Mild irritant. Diesel smells bad, and oily rags are a fire hazard.
3and1 oil dries like that
That seems to be the consensus. Thank you. 🙏
Why worry about it getting on your skin when for years you put it straight into your bloodstream LOL!! Seriously, do you like alcohol better than kerosene to loosen stuck parts?
I like alcohol for small jobs. When I do an entire industrial I use diesel.
*Promo SM* 🙌
Why do men attempt to clean things with a worn our dirty greasy rag? My husband does the same thing.
3 in 1 oil😬
💀