If your tranny is slipping, look for thick pasty oil and dirt residue on the tranny and wheels. It could mean fluid has leaked out somewhere. Clean the tranny and wheels well and look for continued leaks. Mine leaked at the axle seals and was so low it didn't move (Or leak) any more. I believe the axle seal could be replaced with the tranny still in the tractor but not sure if you can refill it there.
I would recommend using a jack stand to hold the tractor up and using the jack to lower the transaxle. You can crack the housing at the mount holes by letting it drop to one side with the other side still bolted (even loosely) in place.
I have done it that way before when forced to (working for others). I don't like using jack stands on these tractors. They are always in the way, they are slippery if you have the tractor at any angle and the transmissions aren't very heavy. I haven't done a lot of these, but I much prefer to lift it in and out of place.
Thanks! Well done. I have a husky that struggles to go forward but will go in reverse just fine. I am thinking it’s the linkage but so far everything looks ok. Your video has given me enough info to investigate further.
joel arseneault thanks. I will try that. Is there any way to check fluid level without taking out the tranny? I looked at A cub cadet video and they showed it under the battery under the seat. That’s where my gas tank is and it doesn’t look like it comes out easily without taking the shell off first.
I purchase a husqvarna yth18542. I removed the deck and put a snow blade in. Drove it cleam the snow.. Drove it into the garage and parked it. No problem. Thwm2 comes the morning. More snow.. Tried to start it. Battery os dead. Jumped it. Starts beautifully. Promblem.... Dont drive forward or reverse.. What can be the problem?
There is no one recommended fluid for these transmissions. I have seen different ones recommended and have used different ones depending on age and temperature being used. They usually use a fully synthetic engine oil (not semi synthetic) If you are only using it in the summer I would use a 15W40. If you are using it when it is cold, then a 10W30. In either case these are thicker than you would use in a new trans but I have to assume there is some wear after 23 years. In either case, it is a good idea to allow the transmission to warm up before jamming the forward reverse selector all the way. With thicker oils this can put a lot of strain on components. The thicker oil will allow for better power transfer and reduce "slip".
I think you will find on the JD that it's not the pistons or cylinder of the pump or motor, but rather scoring or grooves in the surface that the ends of the piston ride against causing leakage .
I have a few older videos that did pretty well ... There's a video about Megan's camera that does well, haha.... One about her sisters Chevy Optra. I used to work on a lot of tractors, but these days, not so much.
I might have this issue. I also have a broken left tire spindle assembly. I have to buy the part today, but could a wobbly wheel be a cause for it to drive slow going forward?
I have a husquvarna with the plastic housing that I was told was sealed and unrepairable Totally false axel seals leaked at 80 hours and I could not find a parts diagram called husqavarna and was told unrepairable not true had to order parts for a similar model and found the right size oil seals drained oil thru a vent on top and refilled works fine just to let don’t let them fool you into a new transmission.
These and similar hydrostatic transmissions are “non-serviceable”. They are built to last a certain number of hours/years and then replaced with a new mower. Glad to see someone bucking the system. Many people are so concerned about the environment etc. and yet, they buy products and throw them out and buy new like it is nothing.
I tend to agree... but my first job when I was 17, was working at a dealership that worked on Roper tractors, and I had to rebuild several manual transmissions. s
Are you saying "if it is backwards" ... I'm confused by this statement, as I have never seen one that is backwards.... and if it is "backwards" it would only be backwards for a specific application as that is relative to how it is mounted in your application. Yes, flipping the motor wedge 180º will change the relative direction. Are you responding indirectly to a questions someone else had ? I'm just really confused.
I'm on my second trans in my Husqvarna and it's slowly getting stubborn going into reverse (need to clean my pullies). Is there a Tuff Torq drop-in replacement for the RS800?
@@JoelArseneaultTH-cam Yes, it is the CVT...all plastic frame...POS. I noticed the axle seal on the right side is leaking now. :( I would love to swap it out for the K46, and I do have the skills. I need the locking differential option as well.
What is the most simple/reliable riding mower that someone can buy now? My 5 speed budget craftsman mower lasted 20 years without issue. Are any of the new mowers like that? Thanks.
Hi . I have a TC138 500cc Kohler engine. The reverse hydrostatic is working but only at about 20% strength so its pretty useless. Any ideas. Is it the forward/reverse connecting rod or do you think it is internal ?
@@JoelArseneaultTH-cam Hi Joel. I appreciate your reply. Fully understand what you mean. Unfortunately its not a linkage or obstruction issue. End of season last year i amended the pedel and cut out to give me more pressure but did not improve anything regardless what pressure i put on it. I see the mechanism on the transmission also. No obstruction there either. I just changed the drive belt today in case it was stretched but still no improvement with that either. There was a big cut in it anyways so needed replacement. Was ready to break. So Im guessing its the piston heads with the angles that might be causing the issue . Worn with pressure or something. What do you think ?
@@JoelArseneaultTH-cam hi joel. Tks again. Since my last reply i have replaced the gear oil and reassembled. The old oil wasn't that bad to be honest. Did not fancy opening it up with having parts to replace. So say my pedal was 20% before. Its now about 60% with new oil. Haven't tested it on grass yet but can incline hills on tarmac now at least in reverse. So thats a plus. I guess if i have to rip it again I know where im heading. Thanks for you help on the matter.
Joel I have a LGT 2654..... all of a sudden when I push the brake it won't stop ...and it won't go forward or backward... Even when I have lock latch engaged it still can be pushed like no brakes and like I said won't go forward or backward....it happened all at once......can the brakes be located in the transmission......no info in my Manuel.. Would appreciate your help Thanks!
Got an LGT2554 and when I've been running it for awhile or in warm temperatures or when it heats up it won't go up inclines. Any info would be helpful Joel....Thanks!
Mark, how many hours or seasons on that Hydro tractor before she started acting up ? Did you see any improvement with heavier oil ? I'd be tempted to try Mobil 1 15w50 Full Synthetic Racing Oil - its great stuff !
GOOD MORNING JOEL ALL RIGHT YOU COULD HELP ME I HAVE A LGT 2654 TRACTOR FROM HUSCOVARNA IT STARTS WORKING WELL IN A 5 MINUTE AND LOSES STRENGTH WHAT IT COULD BE. GRATEFUL AND WAIT,
Hello. This is usually wear in the pump and or motor, inside the transmission. First you want to make sure that it is the transmission that is slipping and not the belt or pulleys. If ti is indeed the transmission that is slipping, it is either air in the system or worn parts. If you sure that it has enough oil, then I would train all of the oil out and use a thicker oil. This is usually only a temporary fix. Once the transmission starts to wear out, you will usually only get it to work for a short time with thicker oil. The parts that wear out are the pumps / pistons as shown in these videos.
Hey Joel.... any idea why a tuff torque transmission might work then not work. Then work, then not work? It's about 10 year old. But I just mowed today and it ran fine. Then got off to open the garage door and when I sat back down it would not drive forward or back. Nothing. This has happened before this year. Any ideas?
Does anyone know if these can be upgraded to like a K66 or bigger? Or if Craftsman transmissions from like a same era GT5000 would work? Mine is a Husqvarna 2454 fwiw. Thanks
I have no idea... Hopefully someone can answer you. Many of these transmissions are very similar, and with enough cutting, welding and fabricating, I'm sure you could do it... but it may also be a lot easier than that.
Use a good, full synthetic engine oil. The viscosity is dependant on a few variables. Low hours, little wear, no issues with slippage in cooler climates. 5W30 High hours, some wear, some slipping or hotter climates up to 20W60 Typically, here in Canada, where summers are usually in the mid 20ºC range, I use 15W40 unless the tractor has slipping issues or is used in the winter (for clearing snow) I hope this helps
Actually, since this post, I found out you should never use synthetic oils in this Hydro-Gear transaxle. According to the mfg of this transaxle, It uses 20/50 oil, any brand.
Yes, using this recommended oil may be for the Hydro-Gear transaxle's only. Or it may be that the person I talked to just favors using non-synthetics. But glad we figured it all out. Transaxle is ready to re-install.
I have a husqvarna yth2348 and it feels like it is slipping going up hill, if you floor it, it will barely move but when you start letting off the foot pedal to about half it will start to move. Any ideas?
@@JoelArseneaultTH-cam good advise, I think the belt is sleeping, I had my wife look while I was trying to go up hill and when the mower was just sitting there the fan was not spinning but when I let up on the pedal a little the mower started to move as did the fan.
@@JoelArseneaultTH-cam My issue ended up being one of the 3 plastic drive idler pulleys was destroyed. Bearing seized up and melted the pulley to where there was nothing left to it.
@@ericc8895 Was the belt the issue on your machine? I am seeing similar issues; Does the belt and fan always rotate and only engage the transaxle when the pedal is pressed?
@@alafferty1264 it ended up being one of the drive pulleys bad, pulley was literally melted, I guess it's a known issue with the plastic drive pulleys. I swapped it out with a new one and now it goes like a beast up hills.
Joel, would the transmission getting too hot cause it to stop from going in forward/reverse? Today, in Oklahoma, high grass caused the mower to get pretty hot to where it wouldn't go forward or reverse.
@@yustinaaron As the fluid ages and looses it's viscosity it will weaken front and forward motion which will be worsened when the fluid gets hot and looses even more viscosity or gets thinner. This is the most common reason. Of course pump wear and failure will also do this.
I've had this comment several times in the past. I consider it more dangerous to use jack stands on these little tractors, for a few reasons that I don't have time to get into. They aren't that heavy and if it falls on you it could break something, but it's not like a "real" tractor or vehicle. I generally use a bolt through the rear hole, into my jack to stop it from sliding off. I've tried using jack stands on these before and it is very dangerous. Not recommended.
Can someone please tell me is there a dipstick to check the fluid in that rear end anywhere or is there any way to check it because mine stopped moving the other day I went back out a couple days later and it started moving again what could that be if it's not low on fluid
I'm pretty sure lots of places on the internet sell these parts. I will send you the link to Jacks small engines in an other comment as sometimes comments with links get blocked. The part # is 532439822.
Can anyone explain the reverse lock out switch? I picked up an 18 horsepower Husqvarna with the Kawasaki engine and it has this lever/switch for reverse. When I put it I to reverse, the engine stalls. Worth noting, I bypassed the seat safety switch (put toothpicks into the pins to dissable the switch). Could this have something to do with it? The transmission ultimately failed (probably sat for too long). Now the disengagement lever does nothing and the tractor won't even move when engine is running.
@@JoelArseneaultTH-cam thank you for your reply. So this disengagement lever is the one at the rear of the tractor. You pull it to disengage the gears (so you can push the tractor) and release to re-engage the trans. I don't have a mower deck installed. So this reverse switch (on mine) is a black lever that when you engage reverse, it pushes this lever in and activates a switch. When I tried to go in reverse, the engine quit. Then all hell broke loose and I believe a major failure occurred as it wouldn't go forward or reverse anymore. That, and that disengagement lever I mentioned would no longer work (you cannot push the tractor anymore. The trans is always engaged.)
@@JoelArseneaultTH-cam you've been so helpful! I greatly appreciate it. Yea, somethings wrong. I may just pull the trans and inspect the internals. I do know it was able to be pushed previously but now it's engaged and won't move. Belt seems tight enough, but I could always thrown a new one on, see what happens. Maybe that blade switch is funky. Maybe a new switch would resolve it? Maybe whoever removed the mower deck somehow damaged this mechanism? It has an electric PTO. No, no manual but I'm sure I can buy one online. It's a YTH1878XP (18horswpower Kawasaki engine). So because it has no mower deck, the previous owner removed the belt drive pulley (the one that the blade switch connects to). Could this somehow be causing issues? Since the switch doesn't go anywhere and thus is an incomplete circuit, perhaps that caused the engine to stall when put in reverse?
@@JoelArseneaultTH-cam well, I have yet to try running the tractor. I encountered another (unrelated) issue. The gas tank is split. Waiting on a new tank to arrive. But when it WAS running,yes, the engine was running fine but it was fussy to move. I did get it to move though, but as soon as I put it into reverse is when the engine died out. I wanna order a new seat switch and wire harness (as I mentioned I bypassed this one using the toothpick method) because I have a seat from another tractor that uses a different switch and won't plug into my harness. I'm curious if either the PTO (being not plugged into the drive pully/clutch) or the seat switch could be to blame for my reverse problem.
@@JoelArseneaultTH-cam looks like I may have to tear into mine. Can't figure out why it won't "freewheel". Lever works and actuates. My Hydro Gear has the brake disk on the outside however. What could cause the hydro to not freewheel when the release lever is pulled?
Oh... that's not good. A few companies are doing this. They are typically some sort of CVT system with variable pulleys instead of hydraulics. Very unreliable (from what I have seen) I have seen these on some MTD tractors and the lower end John Deere models.
good afternoon friend my name is ok and Bruno i'm from brazil, i set up a transmission from lht1842 but it was the opposite, forward he goes backwards and vice versa can you help me?
That may be the case on some units, but that is not what happened here. The front bracket on the transmission came loose / was not bolted in in place, and that was what caused the issue. I'm not sure about frame twist. The front axle has a pivot at the centre, so in order to put any twisting load on the frame, you would have to be on terrain so uneven that the axle hit the stops... only then can you cause any twist. Unless you are talking about twist from wheel torque. If the front bracket is in place and tight, this should not be an issue, due to the locations of where the transmission is attached.
@@JoelArseneaultTH-cam The cracks are not uncommon on Huskies and Craftsman tractors of the same vintage. (Same frame) I had the same issue with my Craftsman. Both sides and the front bracket. And my frame was reinforced. never had an aluminum transaxle housing break.
@@j.w.3345 Yeah... Husky made all of the good Craftsman tractors ... the crap ones were made by MTD... and there were a LOT of crap ones near the end ( the end of Sears Canada... I sometimes forget that it still exists in the US)
They make alumaseal that works on transmissions ? I thought it was for radiators. I have never tried it, but I can't imagine that it is healthy for the pumps in a hydrostatic transmission ... but I can't say for sure.
I think you mean "not intended as an entertainment video" Other than that, I'm not sure what you mean. Is this comment aimed at something I said, or are you just trying to let me know you are not entertained ? Maybe if you clarify what you actually mean, I can either agree or disagree.
I have a 2003 Husqvarna GTH 225 with a Hydro-Gear 163198 transaxle. {horizontal input shaft) -It has always performed flawlessly, never any signs of wear. Suddenly she just stops moving forward the other day. Now, it pushes very easily regardless of what position the release lever is in. Axle keys are intact. WTF...... The interesting part is that when you operate the "gearshift" that you can hear the pump working proportional to how for forward or rearward you push it. Just no forward momentum. If rear tires are off ground, they do move, but 99% of the torque is not being transmitted. Any ideas? Thanks in advance.
@@JoelArseneaultTH-cam -Belt was not slipping, hubs are keyed to axles. I already removed transaxle & power washed it- It is remarkably clean. I plan on taking a peek inside some time. I have nothing to lose as I already acquired a zero turn mower. It piques my interest -how it went from flawless operation to useless, instantly, without any sighs of distress beforehand.... :-D
@@JoelArseneaultTH-cam I meant that’s not considered a transmission repair because if it were a repair you’d have to tear it down and rebuild it but that’s cool I already found a video where they repair one but thanks and I didn’t mean any disrespect
@@alfonsochavez1326 No worries, I was just confused. Perhaps there is some confusion in the language. What you are describing, I would call a rebuild or refurbish.
Yes I know. I have 6, 4 bulb fixtures with H8 bulbs. 4 more over my work bench and 2 LED lights in another area... It's not bad in person, the best lit work area I've ever had, but you need studio lighting when filming.
Hey Mark. Thanks for the comment, but I have no idea what you are talking about / referring to. I made this two part video 5 years ago, so I hardly remember what it's about, haha. Feel free to elaborate.
If your tranny is slipping, look for thick pasty oil and dirt residue on the tranny and wheels. It could mean fluid has leaked out somewhere. Clean the tranny and wheels well and look for continued leaks. Mine leaked at the axle seals and was so low it didn't move (Or leak) any more. I believe the axle seal could be replaced with the tranny still in the tractor but not sure if you can refill it there.
Great advice Mike. I will pin your comment to the top.
I would recommend using a jack stand to hold the tractor up and using the jack to lower the transaxle. You can crack the housing at the mount holes by letting it drop to one side with the other side still bolted (even loosely) in place.
I have done it that way before when forced to (working for others). I don't like using jack stands on these tractors. They are always in the way, they are slippery if you have the tractor at any angle and the transmissions aren't very heavy. I haven't done a lot of these, but I much prefer to lift it in and out of place.
I will remove the wheels tomorrow Joel.........nice to have somebody you communicate with....thanks Rick
EXCELLENT VIDEO...you got me hooked for the others. Good Job!
I like your Austin Mini!
Thanks! Well done. I have a husky that struggles to go forward but will go in reverse just fine. I am thinking it’s the linkage but so far everything looks ok. Your video has given me enough info to investigate further.
joel arseneault thanks. I will try that. Is there any way to check fluid level without taking out the tranny? I looked at A cub cadet video and they showed it under the battery under the seat. That’s where my gas tank is and it doesn’t look like it comes out easily without taking the shell off first.
Nicely done, sir. Thank you for your thorough video. It is nice to watch a video that is well done and thorough.
Hey Joel, My name is Arsenault too, originally born in Montreal, Quebec! My dad was born in New Brunswick, Canada BTW, good video! Thank You Cuz! 🙂
Haha... Hey. Lots of the Arseneault clan around those parts. I think there are about 14 different ways to spell it, also.
@@JoelArseneaultTH-cam I'm in New Jersey, my son is in Phoenix, my dad and siblings are in Florida
@@Bob-yl9pm Spread out all over. I'm in Alberta and most of my family is spread over the east coast of Canada.
Thanks Joel a real help
Thanks for the comment !
Man dude you make it look so easy LOL
I purchase a husqvarna yth18542. I removed the deck and put a snow blade in. Drove it cleam the snow.. Drove it into the garage and parked it. No problem. Thwm2 comes the morning. More snow.. Tried to start it. Battery os dead. Jumped it. Starts beautifully. Promblem.... Dont drive forward or reverse.. What can be the problem?
GREAT VIDEO.. MY HUSQVARNA IS 23 YRS OLD I NEED TO CHANGE THE FLUIDS..RETIRED LARRY IN INDIANAPOLIS INDIANA..
.
There is no one recommended fluid for these transmissions. I have seen different ones recommended and have used different ones depending on age and temperature being used.
They usually use a fully synthetic engine oil (not semi synthetic) If you are only using it in the summer I would use a 15W40. If you are using it when it is cold, then a 10W30. In either case these are thicker than you would use in a new trans but I have to assume there is some wear after 23 years.
In either case, it is a good idea to allow the transmission to warm up before jamming the forward reverse selector all the way. With thicker oils this can put a lot of strain on components. The thicker oil will allow for better power transfer and reduce "slip".
Thanks Joel
Just a thought,.....if I put the leaver to go forward and won’t go would that also be tied to tranny? Not the clutch?
Thanks again.....
I think you will find on the JD that it's not the pistons or cylinder of the pump or motor, but rather scoring or grooves in the surface that the ends of the piston ride against causing leakage .
My yth2454 is 11 years old and snapped left axle, do I have to replace the entire transmission? Thanks
only thing i would add is put anti seize on the axle shaft before putting the wheels back on .. you will thank me later
If you don't have that, at least use bearing grease.
Cant believe ive never seen this i have a 26hp 42 with catcher cant remember the full model name is this your most viewed video ever
I have a few older videos that did pretty well ... There's a video about Megan's camera that does well, haha.... One about her sisters Chevy Optra.
I used to work on a lot of tractors, but these days, not so much.
Hi, what is the function of the bypass lever?
Now it is perfectly clear for me, thanks for the answer.
I might have this issue. I also have a broken left tire spindle assembly. I have to buy the part today, but could a wobbly wheel be a cause for it to drive slow going forward?
@@JoelArseneaultTH-cam Thank you. I think me being new probably did it. Driving sideways on hills, and mowing over thick grass shreds.
That thing looks brand new.
I have forward but no reverse
I have a husquvarna with the plastic housing that I was told was sealed and unrepairable Totally false axel seals leaked at 80 hours and I could not find a parts diagram called husqavarna and was told unrepairable not true had to order parts for a similar model and found the right size oil seals drained oil thru a vent on top and refilled works fine just to let don’t let them fool you into a new transmission.
These and similar hydrostatic transmissions are “non-serviceable”. They are built to last a certain number of hours/years and then replaced with a new mower. Glad to see someone bucking the system. Many people are so concerned about the environment etc. and yet, they buy products and throw them out and buy new like it is nothing.
Will tear mine apart soon. Kit is like $75. Crazy. How did you locate the correct size axle seal, and is it just regular gear oil?
Can't beat a manual transmission
I tend to agree... but my first job when I was 17, was working at a dealership that worked on Roper tractors, and I had to rebuild several manual transmissions. s
Forward and reverse are backwards on them and have to change internally by switching a wedge inside
Are you saying "if it is backwards" ... I'm confused by this statement, as I have never seen one that is backwards.... and if it is "backwards" it would only be backwards for a specific application as that is relative to how it is mounted in your application.
Yes, flipping the motor wedge 180º will change the relative direction. Are you responding indirectly to a questions someone else had ? I'm just really confused.
Do u have a flashlight?
I'm on my second trans in my Husqvarna and it's slowly getting stubborn going into reverse (need to clean my pullies). Is there a Tuff Torq drop-in replacement for the RS800?
@@JoelArseneaultTH-cam Yes, it is the CVT...all plastic frame...POS. I noticed the axle seal on the right side is leaking now. :( I would love to swap it out for the K46, and I do have the skills. I need the locking differential option as well.
@@JoelArseneaultTH-cam I just found the new K46CR's have an auto locking differential. So that may be my next project.
What is the most simple/reliable riding mower that someone can buy now? My 5 speed budget craftsman mower lasted 20 years without issue. Are any of the new mowers like that? Thanks.
Thanks for the video and the detailed reply.
Hi . I have a TC138 500cc Kohler engine. The reverse hydrostatic is working but only at about 20% strength so its pretty useless. Any ideas. Is it the forward/reverse connecting rod or do you think it is internal ?
@@JoelArseneaultTH-cam Hi Joel. I appreciate your reply. Fully understand what you mean. Unfortunately its not a linkage or obstruction issue. End of season last year i amended the pedel and cut out to give me more pressure but did not improve anything regardless what pressure i put on it. I see the mechanism on the transmission also. No obstruction there either. I just changed the drive belt today in case it was stretched but still no improvement with that either. There was a big cut in it anyways so needed replacement. Was ready to break. So Im guessing its the piston heads with the angles that might be causing the issue . Worn with pressure or something. What do you think ?
@@JoelArseneaultTH-cam hi joel. Tks again. Since my last reply i have replaced the gear oil and reassembled. The old oil wasn't that bad to be honest. Did not fancy opening it up with having parts to replace. So say my pedal was 20% before. Its now about 60% with new oil. Haven't tested it on grass yet but can incline hills on tarmac now at least in reverse. So thats a plus. I guess if i have to rip it again I know where im heading. Thanks for you help on the matter.
Joel
I have a LGT 2654..... all of a sudden when I push the brake it won't stop ...and it won't go forward or backward...
Even when I have lock latch engaged it still can be pushed like no brakes and like I said won't go forward or backward....it happened all at once......can the brakes be located in the transmission......no info in my Manuel..
Would appreciate your help
Thanks!
Got an LGT2554 and when I've been running it for awhile or in warm temperatures or when it heats up it won't go up inclines. Any info would be helpful Joel....Thanks!
I have changed the belt and that wasn't the issue. Thanks
@@JoelArseneaultTH-cam I will give the thicker oil a try first and go from there! Appreciate your response!
Mark, how many hours or seasons on that Hydro tractor before she started acting up ?
Did you see any improvement with heavier oil ?
I'd be tempted to try Mobil 1 15w50 Full Synthetic Racing Oil - its great stuff !
Ever figure it out ? Same mower same problem
GOOD MORNING JOEL ALL RIGHT YOU COULD HELP ME I HAVE A LGT 2654 TRACTOR FROM HUSCOVARNA IT STARTS WORKING WELL IN A 5 MINUTE AND LOSES STRENGTH WHAT IT COULD BE. GRATEFUL AND WAIT,
Hello. This is usually wear in the pump and or motor, inside the transmission. First you want to make sure that it is the transmission that is slipping and not the belt or pulleys. If ti is indeed the transmission that is slipping, it is either air in the system or worn parts. If you sure that it has enough oil, then I would train all of the oil out and use a thicker oil.
This is usually only a temporary fix. Once the transmission starts to wear out, you will usually only get it to work for a short time with thicker oil. The parts that wear out are the pumps / pistons as shown in these videos.
Hey Joel.... any idea why a tuff torque transmission might work then not work. Then work, then not work? It's about 10 year old. But I just mowed today and it ran fine. Then got off to open the garage door and when I sat back down it would not drive forward or back. Nothing. This has happened before this year. Any ideas?
@@JoelArseneaultTH-cam If the input pulley (drive pulley) is turning, but the wheels are not, is that basically a sign the transmission is shot?
@@JoelArseneaultTH-cam Thanks for you help! Your video was really well done. Greatly appreciated.
Does anyone know if these can be upgraded to like a K66 or bigger? Or if Craftsman transmissions from like a same era GT5000 would work? Mine is a Husqvarna 2454 fwiw. Thanks
I have no idea... Hopefully someone can answer you.
Many of these transmissions are very similar, and with enough cutting, welding and fabricating, I'm sure you could do it... but it may also be a lot easier than that.
bom dia amigo qual é o óleo correto da transmissao do trator lgt2654
Use a good, full synthetic engine oil. The viscosity is dependant on a few variables.
Low hours, little wear, no issues with slippage in cooler climates. 5W30
High hours, some wear, some slipping or hotter climates up to 20W60
Typically, here in Canada, where summers are usually in the mid 20ºC range, I use 15W40 unless the tractor has slipping issues or is used in the winter (for clearing snow)
I hope this helps
What kind of oil do you use in them
@@JoelArseneaultTH-cam thank you
great job. btw, do you know what oil is used for the Husqvarna hydrostatic YTH model?
Actually, since this post, I found out you should never use synthetic oils in this Hydro-Gear transaxle. According to the mfg of this transaxle, It uses 20/50 oil, any brand.
Yes, using this recommended oil may be for the Hydro-Gear transaxle's only. Or it may be that the person I talked to just favors using non-synthetics. But glad we figured it all out. Transaxle is ready to re-install.
Todd, I can only see your side of this conversation. Did you try the synthetic? I’m trying to figure out which oil to use.
I have a husqvarna yth2348 and it feels like it is slipping going up hill, if you floor it, it will barely move but when you start letting off the foot pedal to about half it will start to move. Any ideas?
@@JoelArseneaultTH-cam good advise, I think the belt is sleeping, I had my wife look while I was trying to go up hill and when the mower was just sitting there the fan was not spinning but when I let up on the pedal a little the mower started to move as did the fan.
@@JoelArseneaultTH-cam My issue ended up being one of the 3 plastic drive idler pulleys was destroyed. Bearing seized up and melted the pulley to where there was nothing left to it.
@@ericc8895 Was the belt the issue on your machine? I am seeing similar issues; Does the belt and fan always rotate and only engage the transaxle when the pedal is pressed?
@@alafferty1264 it ended up being one of the drive pulleys bad, pulley was literally melted, I guess it's a known issue with the plastic drive pulleys. I swapped it out with a new one and now it goes like a beast up hills.
@@ericc8895 Thanks..i'll have to check those on mine
Joel, would the transmission getting too hot cause it to stop from going in forward/reverse? Today, in Oklahoma, high grass caused the mower to get pretty hot to where it wouldn't go forward or reverse.
@@butteredwettoastbro tranny eventually went out. It wouldn't go forward or backward
@@yustinaaron As the fluid ages and looses it's viscosity it will weaken front and forward motion which will be worsened when the fluid gets hot and looses even more viscosity or gets thinner. This is the most common reason. Of course pump wear and failure will also do this.
I have the same model but the age of it is almost 20 years old
Yes, they haven't changed much.
Blades won't ingage
Safety First. Use jack stands!
I've had this comment several times in the past. I consider it more dangerous to use jack stands on these little tractors, for a few reasons that I don't have time to get into. They aren't that heavy and if it falls on you it could break something, but it's not like a "real" tractor or vehicle. I generally use a bolt through the rear hole, into my jack to stop it from sliding off.
I've tried using jack stands on these before and it is very dangerous. Not recommended.
Tell me you have never lifted a riding mower without telling me you have never lifted a riding mower…
Can someone please tell me is there a dipstick to check the fluid in that rear end anywhere or is there any way to check it because mine stopped moving the other day I went back out a couple days later and it started moving again what could that be if it's not low on fluid
joel arseneault 10-4 thanks a lot man
Hey, do you know where to buy a new seat for this little baby?😁
I'm pretty sure lots of places on the internet sell these parts. I will send you the link to Jacks small engines in an other comment as sometimes comments with links get blocked. The part # is 532439822.
www.jackssmallengines.com/jacks-parts-lookup/manufacturer/husqvarna/ride-mower/yth-22-v-42-917289620-2010-05/seat-assembly
Can anyone explain the reverse lock out switch? I picked up an 18 horsepower Husqvarna with the Kawasaki engine and it has this lever/switch for reverse. When I put it I to reverse, the engine stalls. Worth noting, I bypassed the seat safety switch (put toothpicks into the pins to dissable the switch). Could this have something to do with it? The transmission ultimately failed (probably sat for too long). Now the disengagement lever does nothing and the tractor won't even move when engine is running.
@@JoelArseneaultTH-cam thank you for your reply. So this disengagement lever is the one at the rear of the tractor. You pull it to disengage the gears (so you can push the tractor) and release to re-engage the trans. I don't have a mower deck installed. So this reverse switch (on mine) is a black lever that when you engage reverse, it pushes this lever in and activates a switch. When I tried to go in reverse, the engine quit. Then all hell broke loose and I believe a major failure occurred as it wouldn't go forward or reverse anymore. That, and that disengagement lever I mentioned would no longer work (you cannot push the tractor anymore. The trans is always engaged.)
@@JoelArseneaultTH-cam you've been so helpful! I greatly appreciate it. Yea, somethings wrong. I may just pull the trans and inspect the internals. I do know it was able to be pushed previously but now it's engaged and won't move. Belt seems tight enough, but I could always thrown a new one on, see what happens. Maybe that blade switch is funky. Maybe a new switch would resolve it? Maybe whoever removed the mower deck somehow damaged this mechanism? It has an electric PTO. No, no manual but I'm sure I can buy one online. It's a YTH1878XP (18horswpower Kawasaki engine). So because it has no mower deck, the previous owner removed the belt drive pulley (the one that the blade switch connects to). Could this somehow be causing issues? Since the switch doesn't go anywhere and thus is an incomplete circuit, perhaps that caused the engine to stall when put in reverse?
@@JoelArseneaultTH-cam well, I have yet to try running the tractor. I encountered another (unrelated) issue. The gas tank is split. Waiting on a new tank to arrive. But when it WAS running,yes, the engine was running fine but it was fussy to move. I did get it to move though, but as soon as I put it into reverse is when the engine died out. I wanna order a new seat switch and wire harness (as I mentioned I bypassed this one using the toothpick method) because I have a seat from another tractor that uses a different switch and won't plug into my harness. I'm curious if either the PTO (being not plugged into the drive pully/clutch) or the seat switch could be to blame for my reverse problem.
@@JoelArseneaultTH-cam looks like I may have to tear into mine. Can't figure out why it won't "freewheel". Lever works and actuates. My Hydro Gear has the brake disk on the outside however. What could cause the hydro to not freewheel when the release lever is pulled?
@@JasonTylerRicci It is easy to permanently jump a reverse switch.
Mine has a plastic transmission case.
Oh... that's not good.
A few companies are doing this. They are typically some sort of CVT system with variable pulleys instead of hydraulics. Very unreliable (from what I have seen)
I have seen these on some MTD tractors and the lower end John Deere models.
good afternoon friend my name is ok and Bruno i'm from brazil, i set up a transmission from lht1842 but it was the opposite, forward he goes backwards and vice versa can you help me?
joel arseneault if i send you some pictures on whatsapp you could notice something wrong?
joel arseneault yes i did thanks for the attention sorry for something!
Cheap made frame causes twist which break aluminum
That may be the case on some units, but that is not what happened here. The front bracket on the transmission came loose / was not bolted in in place, and that was what caused the issue.
I'm not sure about frame twist. The front axle has a pivot at the centre, so in order to put any twisting load on the frame, you would have to be on terrain so uneven that the axle hit the stops... only then can you cause any twist. Unless you are talking about twist from wheel torque. If the front bracket is in place and tight, this should not be an issue, due to the locations of where the transmission is attached.
@@JoelArseneaultTH-cam The cracks are not uncommon on Huskies and Craftsman tractors of the same vintage. (Same frame) I had the same issue with my Craftsman. Both sides and the front bracket. And my frame was reinforced. never had an aluminum transaxle housing break.
@@j.w.3345 Yeah... Husky made all of the good Craftsman tractors ... the crap ones were made by MTD... and there were a LOT of crap ones near the end ( the end of Sears Canada... I sometimes forget that it still exists in the US)
Try alumaseal it works on transmitions
They make alumaseal that works on transmissions ? I thought it was for radiators. I have never tried it, but I can't imagine that it is healthy for the pumps in a hydrostatic transmission ... but I can't say for sure.
@@JoelArseneaultTH-cam It's not!!
Clearly NOT INTENDED AS ENTERTAINMENT video! I call em as I sees em, you ought to own up!
I think you mean "not intended as an entertainment video"
Other than that, I'm not sure what you mean. Is this comment aimed at something I said, or are you just trying to let me know you are not entertained ?
Maybe if you clarify what you actually mean, I can either agree or disagree.
It is entertaining for this mechanic
I have a electric pro switch
PTO switch
Blades won't engage when I pull the switch up
I have a 2003 Husqvarna GTH 225 with a Hydro-Gear 163198 transaxle. {horizontal input shaft) -It has always performed flawlessly, never any signs of wear. Suddenly she just stops moving forward the other day. Now, it pushes very easily regardless of what position the release lever is in. Axle keys are intact. WTF...... The interesting part is that when you operate the "gearshift" that you can hear the pump working proportional to how for forward or rearward you push it. Just no forward momentum. If rear tires are off ground, they do move, but 99% of the torque is not being transmitted. Any ideas? Thanks in advance.
@@JoelArseneaultTH-cam -Belt was not slipping, hubs are keyed to axles. I already removed transaxle & power washed it- It is remarkably clean. I plan on taking a peek inside some time. I have nothing to lose as I already acquired a zero turn mower. It piques my interest -how it went from flawless operation to useless, instantly, without any sighs of distress beforehand.... :-D
Thanks again Joel......most likely broke.....wow.....costly.....oh well......6years old....thanks
"Intersecting* things" ? Or interesting
joel arseneault typographic error in the main description
You never ever work under a floor jack. You should have jack stand holding up the mower.
That was a replacement not a repair but as long as it works
I'm not sure what you mean ? This is part 1 of 3, and I had to remove a broken bolt and weld / reinforce the chassis.
@@JoelArseneaultTH-cam I meant that’s not considered a transmission repair because if it were a repair you’d have to tear it down and rebuild it but that’s cool I already found a video where they repair one but thanks and I didn’t mean any disrespect
@@alfonsochavez1326 No worries, I was just confused. Perhaps there is some confusion in the language.
What you are describing, I would call a rebuild or refurbish.
Too dark
Yes I know. I have 6, 4 bulb fixtures with H8 bulbs. 4 more over my work bench and 2 LED lights in another area... It's not bad in person, the best lit work area I've ever had, but you need studio lighting when filming.
Wow. HQ is junk
Next time don't be s ared to just roll it over ...i do it a the time easy
Hey Mark. Thanks for the comment, but I have no idea what you are talking about / referring to. I made this two part video 5 years ago, so I hardly remember what it's about, haha. Feel free to elaborate.