Nice detail, Jeff
Just doing some basic math. 11,000sq ft x 4$ = $44,000 plus other attached costs. It takes a rare (very wealthy ) client. By the way, you do great work.
When you glue a floor down, can you get the seams between the boards tight? Do you have to cull all but the straightest boards. I'm sure the glue holds well once set but I would think that you couldn't even walk on it before the glue sets can you? Can't even shoot a few brads in the tongues? That sounds like a tough install. But it looked good in the video.
Our floor guy does an amazing job, floor is tight! They use strap clamps to pull it together and put bundles of flooring on top for weight until glue sets.
👍📐🔨thanks for the video
Always learn something Jeff. 👍
I'm amazed at what you do! Great video, too. Bravo!
One solution, a little more practical is for the lads to take their shoes off at the entrance!!! 😊
How do you stop it from leaking?
We tape any holes in the floor beforehand and the sound mat contributes. Product is viscous enough not to weep trough underlayment joints.
Nice video
So is that used for a finished floor or do you add tile or wood on top?
Really nice detail. In a future video, could you cover how you reduce sound levels between rooms?
Thanks for covering this. I am always learning how to do things better by watching your videos
The basic\standard method of interior room to room wall sound reduction is to use Rockwool Safe N Sound or equivalent insulation in the walls and then to sheet the wall on both sides with a sound deadening sheetrock like QuietRock or SoundBreak. If more sound reduction is needed, you can add in an MLV barrier against the studs before laying on the sheetrock and\or add a second layer of sheetrock.
I used the wall to wall sound proofing on my home. Between solid core doors and the rock wool it worked great.