I want to add that this video was scripted and filmed in October. I do feel like the end discussions about signaling safety to your chosen group still stands as a topic that needs to be pondered, even more so than before. The future of the next few years at least may provide us with a much clearer dichotomy as various groups attempt to find each other through shifting, and subtle, visual cues. But acknowledging that what signals one thing for a small community may not work outside of that range. "Safety" or "compliance" is not universal and we shouldn't expect clothing to make it so. It can certainly be included, but not relied upon solely.
A number of my American friends have said that they'll be wearing more blue and rainbows from now on. I think it's interesting that it's colour not style that is considered something you can use to signal your beliefs at work without getting in trouble. Regarding the "signalling conformity with fashion part: my friend who works at a college has observed that nearly all of the students conform to such a strict dress code that it's practically a self-regulated uniform. My partner's kid is that age and is massively adverse to wearing anything colourful or detailed that would make her stick out despite what her personal preferences are. As a Millennial I feel like I can wear whatever I want and fashion doesn't matter, but this doesn't seem to be the case for younger generations. If "everyone is wearing t-shirts and jeans" then that is fashion even if some groups (e.g. geographical, cultural, economic, political) follow different trends, like they always have throughout history.
you know what else signals safety and community? wearing a mask in public to reduce the communicable illnesses you are passing on to people who are more susceptible to becoming sick and/or dying from these illnesses. :/
@@technopoptart This one! I don't have an immune system and even just someone seeing my mask on and stopping to put on theirs in my presence helps makes me feel safer.
I really like you close bob haircut as you modeled your coat and smiled at the camera speaking about your upcoming trip east. Not sure that it is new as sometimes I fear your hair gets a but lost in the dark background, but thought I would call it out as it looks very 1920s and fresh and super stylish. Also, if you need a recommendation and are in the Philly area feel free to reach out
My mom grew up dirt poor in the 50s, but her momma made sure the family always looked put-together in clean, freshly pressed clothing. She tells me she misses the way everyday people dressed up to go out, even if it was just to do the grocery shopping. Each of the ladies in the store had her hair done and wore a nice dress and shoes. Fashion was 100% a means of fitting in! A little later, in the 60s, my mom's very fashionable aunt sported go-go boots, a minidress, and the bouffiest bouffant that ever bouffed to her corporate job to stand out from the men in their stodgy suits. I do sometimes wish there were more context to modern fashion, but I'm also very happy that, for the most part, I can wear what I want without it meaning anything. Fashion nihilism?
I dress up specifically to do my grocery shopping, ha. Between thrifting and sewing I have so many Nice clothes and I never really go out otherwise - so where else would I wear my evening gowns and capes? But I don't mind that other people don't - lets me stand out more, ha. And takes the pressure off, so it's something I can do, not something I have to do. I think fashion nihilism is a good term.
@@PrettyGuardian Exactly, poor but presentable. I guess we were lower-middle class in the 80s, and then definitely lower class after my parents' divorce. Still, from the way I dressed, you never knew I was lacking for anything!
My Grandfather was from Russia, and (a long time ago) he designed women's coats, had a small factory in San Francisco. He used to go for walks in the evening, look at the stores window and draw, copy ideas, go back to work the next day for new ideas. This was in the early 1905- 1930s.
I'm from a small town. We have the pajama and slipper crowd, the farm crowd, the overly badly tattooed crowd (clothing challenged), the yoga pants crowd, the metal band t-shirt crowd, and the hunting/fishing wear crowd. I know and love them all. I also sew clothes. Finding fabric that isn't fleece or quilting cotton is difficult. Thankfully, the internet fills that void. We may not be fashionable by big city standards, but we're never dull.
My small city is similar. I am one of the few "made it myself" crowd, and yes decent fabric that isn't cotton calico, cotton denim, or polyester fleece is a challenge all its own. I've taken to repurposing items meant for home decor (bedsheets, blankets, table clothes, and curtains) to fill some of that gap. Granted they are often still polyester or nylon, but at least it gets one more round of use before meeting the landfill.
I remember when I first started sewing and I leaned towards tailoring and repair specifically because I couldn't imagine fabric stores selling anything that wasn't quilting cotton or pajama-type fleece!
I think what’s interesting about this as somebody who is from a small town again, is the way that small town communities have a very leveled field as far as income. At least in the town I was from you were some degree of poor. If you were not, you were signaling that you were going to the city when you grew up. The passion was much more about belonging to a particular group and finding distinction. If it was to signal wealth as opposed to subculture, you went straight to name brands.
I think hyper cheap fashion has made clothing so disposable people don't need to think too much about it. I think as people move away from that model, fashion will inevitably return. Probably in ways we can't imagine today. After learning about Derek Guy and the "fashion as language" model... Well, I think just as language is innate to humanity, so is the language of fashion, it's just in a state of great flux these days.
@unrightist - The fashion industry accounts for a good share of the trash in landfills. Especially disposable trendy "fast fashion" styles meant to last for one season and made from artificial fibers. Bernadette Banner made some videos on this subject in the past.
The west is working on blockading trade with China so that you only gobble down their b*lls. Maybe this will drive the desire to appeal to locally made brands. In Romania you still have old tailors that can make you suits however you like it for about 300€, payment for fabric included. That means if you want high rise trousers with pleats and wide suit jackets with peak lapels as wide as your hand or wider, they'll do it for you as long as you give them the fabric. There's stores in the big cities where you can buy fabric, in my town they even have Vitale Barberis. Unfortunately, since they aren't long for this world, the made to measure younger tailors with exorbitant prices are slowly becoming the only options.
I think you're just cheap. If you only go to fast fashion stores, yes they are junk. Mid price stores are pretty good. The fact that mid price fashion are going out of business is because people are cheap. Everyone says they want good quality and unwilling to pay for it. That's why you think thrifting is good. You are just cheap. If you support expensive stores, they won't go out of business. Corporations answer to the market.
My daughter feels similarly; and she started sewing to make her own clothes from natural fibers. Thrift shops have been a source of fabric, but it’s harder to find yardage.
I found this to be very educational. I am 64, so when I really came of age was the 80s, although I was certainly round in the 70s. My parents were very conservative, and until late in their lives, they would say things like oh everybody’s just wearing jeans it’s so sad, and I never understood what they had against it. My husband is a bit older than me, born in 1954, and he says he was not allowed to wear jeans to school ever. I was at least allowed to wear them occasionally. I just always wondered what everybody had against blue jeans and how they would kind of loop that in with being a hippie. I see now that it was because people were no longer interested in expressing themselves as a certain type of American. Just fascinating. Thank you for a wonderful talk.
'fashion is dead' reminds me of 'the end of history' so it is not impossible that the purposes of fashion outlined here may just come charging back very quickly... as noted in the pinned comment
I love this so much, and I'd love a discussion on what "timeless" fashion actually is. I keep seeing it *everywhere*. "Don't buy this, buy that timeless piece, it'll fit into fashion for years to come!" or "Ten timeless dresses for every need", and I just don't understand what timeless actually means. What's "timeless" in 1970 or 1980 isn't "timeless" in 2020. I haven't seen that discussed anywhere, so I'm here pretty much begging you to explain it to me.
@piskeyfaeri Great question. My first thoughts are, timeless fashion does not have a lot of "novelty" features that can go out of style. Nothing over exaggerated in shape or colour, and no excessive features like ruffles, bows, busy patterns, weird necklines or collars, etc. Well made and in natural materials, (wool, cotton, linen, silk.) Staples like blazers, blouses, and hand made leather shoes.
As above, something that is not fad, that looks a lot like simple previous decades. Especially what the very wealthy were wearing in previous decades. This is especially important if you want to give off upper management vibes. I used to look (in the 70s, 80s and 90s) what the junior clerical staff was wearing and avoid that. Another point is that if it looks like a rug, a table cloth or boudoir outfit then it is not it.
@@PiskeyFaeri generally a simple construction without strong statement elements or embellishments is going to be more durable (in terms of trends) than a highly specific style that has a lot of trendy embellishments.
I have a bit of a different reply for you. When you look through clothing of past decades/centuries, and you see something that you would still be able to wear today, that is timeless. I don't agree that it must be of simple construction, or in natural materials - those have more to do with the longevity of the garment than the timelessness. Don't forget that whoever wants to sell you "timeless" styles, still wants you to buy something. In my opinion, your own timeless style will be different from everybody else's. Your timeless style is whatever makes you shine, makes you self-confident, shows off your best features. If you think back, can you determine some clothes that made you feel like that? If yes, that's where your own timeless style can start. If you haven't found anything yet, continue experimenting until you do. Good luck!
21:53 OMG you went to Real Clothes, Real Lives! I am the current student research assistant for the Smith College Historic Clothing Collection. It's amazing to see the reception Real Clothes, Real Lives has gotten and the positive attention it has given the SCHCC. This exhibition is really a labor of love from Kiki Smith, who has spent nearly 50 years advocating for the collection, and the Smith students who love the collection.
I have never before heard of SCHCC. I will be looking into this. I have a fascination with Smith College and plan to visit the campus in the coming months. I primarily wish to see the Sylvia Plath Collection.
As someone who loves costuming yes yes yes, we live in a time where a style of an item of clothing can say volumes about a person!!! This was a wonderfully informative video ❤
THE COAT! Love your green one. I have one, a camel I bought in the 90s. Or rather, my youngest daughter now has that coat; she acquired it from my closet several years ago. They never go out of style.
I could not possibly care less what anyone wears, what it cost, who made it, or what "status" it's supposed to signal, so this was a video I almost clicked away from. I may not understand the mentality that assigns significance to clothing, but I appreciate the window into that world. It was an entertaining and informative video, thank you.
14:54 I live in a little medieval town in southern italy and my local notions store was established in like 1880-something, and the design of the store has all of the stock behind a counter that goes all the way around the store, so in order to look at and buy things you need to ask them for assistance (which, as an indecisive person who doesn't want to bother anyone, is my personal nightmare) but hearing this makes it make sense a little bit more now than it did before
I remember watching Feud: Capote v Swans. And the Swans going to the department store looking for hats and gloves and sales team saying they no longer carrying them. And realizing their era has become bygone.
I bought a short, pale pink, swing coat from Max Mara Weekend a few years ago, & it gives me so much joy to wear, even though I can't keep it looking as pristine as previous generations of my family would have! I wear it with everything I own in spring & autumn, & feel it elevates my otherwise brightly coloured, inexpensive, second hand, or homemade, wardrobe.
I love the coat, love the hand sewing shots. As I am now starting to make my own wardrobe (mostly so that my clothes fit me properly and I can make historicalish fashions), I regret the decades spent shopping trying and failing to figure out what I could buy to fit me, of seeing fashion trends come and go--most of which were not to my taste and/or not something I could wear and look good. Turns out I had the power to fix the issue by sewing. Vintage style not vintage values has changed my entire outlook on fashion.
There was a phrase used in 'The Devil's Whore' that I always loved as a compliment - "You look like yourself". I think that's where we're reaching for now.
I don't think they sell many of those. That's just a marketing gimmick to make the brand look as inaccessible as possible. Then the people who want to look like they can afford it, go and buy something more recognizably Balenciaga to make sure it shows that they can shop there. The basics are there to sell the more expensive stuff.
@@littlesometinI hate to be the "actually" person but for many brands, the lowest end items are the moneymakers - wallets, cheapest bags and shoes, t-shirts with logos.. The "barely out of reach" pricing of the lowest tier, yet recognisable items is what drives the popularity. Knowing that for "lower class" consumer that shirt is a prized possession is what drives the "wealthy class" consumer to spend more. If the lower class consumers couldn't at all access these items, they wouldn't desire them and thus, having them would pose no meaning to the wealthy consumer. So, unbelievably, but contrary to what they say, the data shows that "wealthy" do indeed buy to impress the "poor" and it's the lower and middle class tastes that decide on what luxury looks like.
Dear madam I cannot decide what I love more: wether your soothing voice,or the super interesting concepts you explain so well, or you ability at tailoring these wonderful clothes. Thank you so much and enjoy your next trip! ❤❤❤❤
Hi Nicole ! I wish to reassure you, as a young male stylist in a luxury imported clothing boutique ; there are still plenty of people out there who can afford and value fine fabrics and elaborated designs. It's a matter of how people are educated about clothing, so please, keep on doing your amazing work of teaching.
I really love all the historical artwork and photography you select. I always take hours to get through your videos because I pause on every picture and consume all the details!
People are dressing down so you don’t stand out. No flash no cut nothing that displays quality. It marks you to thieves. Not even bags or purses. I personally love cut fit and quality but keep it now for home.
The 48 Laws of Power book talks about that. Dressing down is the new way to virtue signal. The basic idea hasn’t gone away, it just has a new way for display.
@ oh sure I was followed in a mall fortunately I have an eye for movement and caught 3 tag teaming my movements. I asked for an escort to my car and never shopped there again. How I dress now is survival not a new Way to display. I find that virtue signal abhorrent and demeaning insulting.
What a great video essay on this topic. The funny thing is that you say we have lost our ability to discern quality cloth and garments, which is definitely true. However, as I have gotten further into sewing, learning so much more about fabrics and specialty techniques needed to create quality clothes, I can't unsee certain things in mass-produced garments anymore. It's turned me into a quiet snob about it now. I certainly won't speak my criticisms aloud, as I don't want to be rude, but I definitely notice things now.
I am less polite than you - I was stunned when my roommate was crowing about some name brand bag she got on sale at Nordstroms for only $100. It was printed plastic. I tried to convince her to return it and get a real leather bag on etsy for a fraction of the price but she didn't bite, ha. The obsession with names instead of quality blows my mind.
@@ariadne0w1 Here is me being less polite: People are just straight-up brain washed by brands these days. The system is working exactly as they intend it to work. Though I do have to give kudos to the very few companies out there that sell expensive stuff, but the quality is worth it. But in the end, by far the best compliment you can get on anything you wear or carry is when you can say, not "thanks, it's a so-and-so brand and it cost X amount", or even, "thanks, I got it at a thrift store". It's when you can proudly claim, "thanks! I made it myself!".
I second that recommendation for Fashion is Spinach by Elizabeth Hawes. She was a fascinating individual herself! Really enriched my understanding of fashion.
Dear Nicole Rudolph, thank you very much indeed. So many beautiful and inspiring ideas that only outstanding comes to mind! I not only appreciate your perspective but blending it with many a new garment. Brilliant!
I really enjoyed the extra layer of detail you provided in the pinned comment and totally agree. I also wonder how much of the "safety" in fashion signalling changes from country to country, and location to location. Having lived in suburbs, a major city and a tiny town (all in the same country) I swear by the huge difference on how, what you wear, changes how you are perceived by your local community. It's pretty wild, and a topic I'd love to hear more about!
Among the well off, it's brand association that is considered to be the most important thing nowadays, and the style/fashionabilty of individual garments gets thought about afterwards. Nowadays styles change constantly, and we are always being pressured through advertising to participate. Most people don't alter or repair their clothes anymore, unless the item is very expensive or has sentimental value, and existing clothes are sold on/disposed of and replaced.
Modern fashion designer do NOT design to keep - they want you to throw everything out and buy it all new every year. Environmentaly unfriendly waste of money.
Love the coat! Love the history lesson! As someone who works in a thrift store I see lots of "fast" fashion come through. I also see lots of clothing being rejected due to stains, holes and on T-shirts inappropriate language or other stuff the place won't put out due to it's policies. There are also lots of brand name items and even couture items that come through. It can sometimes be mind numbing. I fully appreciate your videos on fashion and the nature of consumerism in fast fashion or the throwaway mindset.
I have 6 pure wool or cashmere item from my local thrift store, and each had at least 1 hole that is the reason I assumed they were donated, and that I mended in less than an hour. It's such a different way of thinking, I can't imagine getting rid of something initially so expensive over something so small.
@ariadne0w1 I tend to wear out my clothing to the point of no repair. Apparently I take after my Dad who would do the same. I do shop at my work once I'm off the clock. I've bought fairly expensive leggings for practically nothing and loads of yarn for very little. I'm grateful for what little I can save. I make good use of all my purchases.
@@margarethall1625 I bet! My weakspot is shoes - I end up buying most second hand because I just absolutely trash them and getting them new doesn't buy me enough extra time to justify the cost, they get worn to death in short order and can't really be repaired.
My mom tells me ready made clothes weren't a thing until the 1970s. She was still getting her clothes by picking from a catalogue and waiting until they were made at department stores in the 50s and 60s, the first item of ready made clothes she bought was a pair of jeans in the 70s and they were EXPENSIVE. And they werent "very wealthy", they were working class. My grandpa was a carpenter. Ready made clothes were what the very wealthy were buying.
Well, I was born in the 1950s and post war, ready made was the thing. When your Mom ordered from a catalogue, the department store didn't make the garment. They shipped her the ready made garment. Department stores DID do alterations in those days so if she specified an inseam length, the department store would have a seamstress alter accordingly. But they did not sew from scratch. I worked in a department store. When I was in school in the 1960s we actually looked down on 'home made' clothing because those people were considered too poor to buy in a store. So it was rare to see home made.
Ready made actually started being a thing in the mid-19th century because of the Civil War and other economic issues! It just took a while to have everything be available that way. Sears catalog started selling ready made in the 1890s, and so many others picked up in the next few decades. Having a store nearby that sells it is a whole different matter, however! My family in rural Indiana took the trolley an hour or two away to do their ready-made clothing shopping as of the 1920s. They had been buying work clothes already made in town, but "fashion" and suits were custom, catalog, or they made things themselves when they had time.
@@l.5832 My mother made most of our clothing in the 1970s, can confirm that people looked down on me for it. But the fashionable clothing was poorly made from scratchy polyester with monofilament serged seams that cut our skin, and it wasn't worth trying to stretch our budget to wear clothing that hurt. (Mom and I both have sensory issues.)
Hi, I don't know if or where you're at in your trip through the east coast, or if everything is planned yet, but the Ava Gardner museum near Raleigh, North Carolina is worth stopping to see! They have I think around a dozen or so of her outfits, and it's not an especially large museum, but definitely an interesting look into Hollywood culture of that time, it's perspective on historical clothing, and on making do with wardrobe choices from the studio. There are a couple of her personal fashion items, which I think she used in her later movies, and maybe 10 or so dresses from earlier films. Also, there are also a collection of 19th century quilts and needlework in Old Salem, Winston-Salem, NC with the Museum of Early Southern Decorative Arts, and there's a really beautiful standout called the Pinecone Quilt, also 19th century at the museum for the indigenous Lumbee people at UNC Pembroke. Can't wait to see what's to come with your east coast trip!
I love your swing coat! One of my favorite pieces of clothing I ever owned was a green swing coat that I wore in the 90's. I still have it but the shoulder pads are far too large for it to ever be wearable again even though it might be voluminous enough to still to accommodate my much larger and older body shape. Mine was a kind of terrible shade somewhere between olive and acid green but it made such a fantastic wardrobe piece that I bought it anyway and never regretted it.
You're rocking that coat! It's fabulous, and the pockets look very roomy. I'm doing my best to keep up with a baby daughter, so I've been keeping my eyes peeled for wrap tops (speaking of styles that recur throughout fashion history). I usually find that the best current looks draw heavily from vintage influences; anything else bears a strong resemblance to what they used to call knock-arounds. Meantime I am discovering once again that sewing patterns offer more of what I'm looking for than a lot of RTW. Again, great video!
As you have presented here, if it's not the materials it's the quantity that people have used to signal their status through their clothing. Today given that anyone can fake anything by tapping into decent-looking mass produced stuff or trolling the 2nd hand markets, I think public displays of "making it" nowadays are through the "toys" one can afford. I have a few acquaintances who present like your ordinary Joe in their dress but make up for it by hopping into their Porsches or high-end Teslas when it's time to drive home.
Yes! I've always argued that technology is just as much "fashion" as clothing now a days. That's the way the past treated it, too. Fashion stores like Milliners sold tea, games, books, tobacco, even cheese!
I look down on people hopping into Teslas. The one person I know who still has one is looking into a different car since he doesn’t want to be associated with Asshole Musk.
@@NoelleTakestheSky 🤣🤣🤣Thanks. But on a more serious note...Owning a certain make/model car, doesn't always mean the person is an asshole. Sometimes, it's because that particular model fits the need/want all in one 🙂
@@daxxydog5777 could probably use square washers (for unistrut in construction) for the same, not sure if prices are are worthwhile though. Would certainly make for amusing sewing tools though
@@Kehy_ThisNameWasAlreadyTaken why bother with square? just use round like Nicole used. My issue with weights is that they really don't work for slippery fabrics like satin and linings where the pin holes can be so problematic.
I captured some purpose - made pattern weights from mom's studio . Plastic coated heavy things with felt bottoms, a muffin shape that's easy to grab. I've taken to tracing around the pattern with gothic school pastel (if I just say chalk you'll think I mean tailors', which I loathe as too faint), or ink pen and removing weights & pattern to cut. Works great until I change my mind. Still OK if I trace on fabric's backside.
I adore your lectures. Not a single ummm or I forgot to mention. So clearly researched with analysis, examples, and further reading. And making the thing you are discussing as proof of your thesis is 🍒! 🧑🍳 💋
Nicole, great video. I remember my mother giving me a swing jacket and swing coat in the late 70's / early 80's and feeling terribly chic when wearing them. The style is timeless and versatile. My coat had the wrap around side pockets like the one you showed today and had a floofy fur collar. Good luck moving forward with your plans and your East Coast visit! I know you will do well.
Hi Nicole, great video. I'm a big hate lover. I had to buy a new hat last weekend. Most people don't wear hats anymore. I love a good fedora or bowler. It's all about personal style. I like wider leg trousers. I have long legs and I injured my left leg, my calve is twice the size as it is use to be. So, I have adapted. The hell with what is in, I go with what works for me. Love your work.❤❤❤❤
OOOOOO!!!! I absolutely love the clothing you create! The acid green colour is amazing, especially in that you were able to match the double knit? furry detailing. The buttons are perfect, the top stitching perfect and the swing is so much fun! The coat colour, as you know, suits you so much and looks wonderful on you. I remember my mother wearing this coat in the late 50's and early 60's. Regarding quality, my grandmother taught me to look for a full-length or at least 1/2 length chamois hidden in the back of the coat between the lining and the exterior, for warmth, as an indication of quality. I understood the feel of cloth, impressed upon me, and after reaching menopause, appreciate the breathability of natural fibers so much. I think we are returning to a time when money spent on good quality fabrics, if you can even find them, let alone identify them, and making a small set of clothes for oneself will be coming back just due to loss of ability to purchase. For now, there are still quality items to be found second hand, but in time, we'll have to find other sources. We won't have a mom at home to make garments for us; it definitely is a time investment! Ability to purchase will always affect our choices. Thank you so much for another very informative post. I can't wait to see your travel wardrobe!
@@jujubesification Same here. My mother is teaching me the basics and handed me some old books on how to get every measurement you need. I have autism and sensitivity because of it. Clothing was always a nightmare, and I always settled for clothes that were at least comfy for me. I can't wait to make clothes that look just as nice as they feel! I already got a general idea on what style I enjoy :)
I never got to stop making/altering clothes, as I'm irregular proportions. (I'm a bit tall for a female but I'll all leg, so I literally buy petite tops if they're short sleeved and then tall for pants. Though for shorts I have to wear mens', because womens' are just too short. Dresses intended for below the knee or long sleeved shirts not made by me, must be altered.) That said my daughter from age 4 to 15 was too skinny for her height (when she started K at age 5 she wore a 3T in the waist, and a 6x -- aka 7 -- in length) so for a decade of her childhood all of her nightgowns/pjs and pants were made or altered by me or my mother for her and I can attest, even cheap cotton prints cost more than the completed garment costs. For jeans and the like it cost less money for me to buy off the rack jeans and then add fleece or fake fur as cuffs or crocheted lace as ruffles to the bottom of the leg or buy a larger size and spend a few hours (at min wage) altering the waistband then it did for me to actually buy just the denim.
@@mwater_moon2865 Woah! that's not easy to do on minimum wage and working full time. Real kudos to you! Thanks for the correction. I'm from Canada and my thinking for everyday clothing related to other times... the 50's to the late 70's. As far as making a coat or other clothing of this quality level, including tailoring, fitting and material quality, which will last a long time, I think it might be less expensive than buying at least a coat of equal quality, but you would know more than I would! Thank you!
What a fascinating and thorough investigation into the history of fashion! This was such an excellent presentation and brought up so many different ideas and experiences for me. The movie "Mrs. Harris Goes to Paris" is an interesting (and uplifting) look at the experience of going to a French fashion house for custom couture in the 1950's. The series "Miss Fisher's Murder Mysteries" set in 1928 Australia is a delight of gorgeous fashion for the senses and explores its use as well in feminism and other ways. Also, I loved getting to watch you sew. My mom, who passed 13 years ago, was a prolific seamstress who sewed most of her own clothes. I have many thoughts now about her views on fashion and appearance and the historical influences of those views. I'm glad to see that things have gotten less rigid and classist over time, though there will always be issues and ways to use fashion to "other" people. My mom worked hard to look "put-together," I think to compensate for her struggles with weight and body image and feeling inferior. In her final month of life, she told me in hindsight that she wished she would have cared less and if given a chance, would have made her clothes less loose-fitting in an attempt to hide her body.
Before I watch: I see so much fashion inspiration coming from drag costuming. I'm a faithful Drag Race watcher and what I see there in makeup, hair, lingerie and garments, jewelry and shoes are showing up on designer runways and photoshoots. Some of the most avant garde looks are now edging towards mainstream. And men are finally included in the fashion fun! I've always wondered why men couldn't play with fashion like women do. Now on to your video.
Fashion is fun, when you know what looks good on your body shape. As a child and teen I didnt care . In my 20s i wanted to be taken seriously. At 28 i realised I felt frumpy and decided to chose elegance. Now, in my mid 30s I love fashion but I'm picky and I know what I like. But it took several years.
It's fascinating the way life experiences influence this- I'm a midwestern engineer/ lab scientist who loves historical fashion (I've made a wool loose gown!) and a queer woman. I spend so much time thinking about how to signal that I belong to the same class/ status/ am worthy of the same consideration as the men around me at work, who wear the button downs or pullovers and khakis/ dark wash jeans that are a class marker. The jeans and sweaters that the women wear are similar; I match myself to it, but- it signifies. Looking around the office, you more or less know someone's position and class by their clothes. This is just at work, and I agree it falls apart outside of work, but- queering clothing still gets you noticed here, inside and outside the subculture. I'm beginning to suspect it's harder to see because we live now, not then, but that there's always been so many subtle differences to fashion that the people wearing them would say there was infinite variation then as well
20:00 I would argue that, more than "we have developed to a point where we know that looking put together is not a sign of virtue" it's more that: it's cheap and easy to look put together now (as you also cover). If it doesn't break the bank or occupy a full day in your week to perform hegemonic clothing values, the opportunity cost is way lower and the presentation fails to effectively signal in-group membership.
There is a picture in my mind of my grandparents in the 40s - 50s, with my grandmother in a coat of this style, and I just had to go look! I think she is! Its the A-line shape, with wide cuffs, what looks like a peter pan collar, and a short line of buttons. She looks very stylish! . Thank you for another video
14:08 to 14:36 is just a straight up lie. “Shopping and excess consumerism was a way of life for everyone” this is simply not true. The majority of Americans at the time remember were dressed with a mix of handmade clothes and store bought all the way up into the early 80s. Being poor was a normal thing for millions of Americans and hand-sewn clothes made from patterns were extremely popular and normal, most everyone was not out buying the latest clothes, they had grandmas, aunts, and mothers at home making them. Most Americans could not afford to go to the mall regularly until the 90s. Just ask your family
Well, this confirms that the vintage green wool swing coat I bought most likely really is original 50s. It's lovely and I wish I had more occasions to wear it. ❤
Thank you ❤ thoroughly enjoyed...even as late as the 1970s I remember that many women particularly married didn't have access to their own money. Mums accessed or made many of there clothes and altered those in their wardrobes for changing styles, all the kids had some homemade clothes. I would pour over my mum's pattern books but hated standing still to get fitted.😅..
When I was out with my mom I spotted a nice beanie with fading yarn. But I had three issues with it. One, that it's made of polyester and acrylic with only 4% wool. Why would I want a plastic bag on my head?. Secondly that it cost around 35usd. Why would I pay that for a plastic bag? And thirdly that it's supporting fast fashion. So I found a skein of yarn 100% wool that had the fading effect, and a mohair strand because I wanted to replicate the beanies fluffyness (which was plastic but mine wouldn't be), and took up my needles and starting to knit. I hope to be able to wear it soon as it's gotten cold outside.
I love your coat! And watching you applying your skills is just a delight! Please consider making a chill out video where you use more footage and talking us through the process - I feel confident that I would see quite a few of similar pieces or pieces inspired by it out and about. It seems like very nice and comfortable garment and it's really quite elegant! I love the colour!
Thank you so much fort this video! I love all your videos, but this one not only was posted on my birthday, it also inspired me in the making of a coat I have been planning for a while now.
Beautiful coat! I had a 'duster' as we called in in the 80's. It was lighter weight than this but was a wonderful garment. Very inspiring. Thanks for the information and the sewing lesson! Wonderful!
God!! I grew up in the early 60’s and up until 3 years ago (when I went full remote) I had an outfit for every thing and very skilled at how to achieve my look with a small budget. I really miss those days!!! Now I express my status in how I put things or what bag I carry. Or how I make up nails or face. Cheaper and easier and works with jeans and active wear 🤗
My grandmother made her family's clothing all the time my mom grew up and even some of my clothes as a child. Wouldn't it be lovely if everyone could afford custom tailored clothing, even if it was just that they did the labor themselves. The price of textiles is sometimes MORE expensive than buying cheap stuff off the rack. It really feels sometimes like Corporate America (or internationals) have their foot on the accelerator down to the floor and there's no avoiding the cliff ahead.
I love watching all the sewing and particularly all the different ways you are finishing your seams! It's biggest decision i have to make whenever I sew
That wide collar looks fabulous on you! Did I see the CN Tower in there? Another trip to the Bata Museum? I went into one of their stores in Prague a few weeks ago, just for the nostalgia.
As societal constructs relaxed, so did fashion. Individual expression was always important (when it could be afforded); individual style is simply more valued today. It’s a balance. Or a pendulum. When the fabric was the expensive part of a piece, labor was cheap. Now that labor is expensive, those with the surplus income have their things made by designers; those handy with a surplus of time learn to make their own. There are still societal standards, they’re just less understood unless you’re an insider in that group. And the groups themselves are more elastic. “Dress for success.”
I loved this one Nicole 🎉 The narrative of the evolution of fashion and the making of the chartreuse coat as it was made was so satisfying. Welcome back to the East Coast 🧳
I'm from the 3rd world, this is our big city: We've tiktok fashion crowd addicted to Temu, heavily inspired by 00s crowd due to social media, "I do not care" crowd which are positively Victorian- they wear any tshirt with any pants with plastic sneakers to cover themselves. There are also a small group that wears middle class brands like Zara, but for them Zara feels designer lol. In this scene, I believe fashion is going to be amazing (again) we began to love vintage, we learnt to sew with linen and wool. Personally I wear a 39 year old wool pink coat, for 7 years. I handwash it, I dry it by kissing :)
1:26 AH! One of my favorite Star Wars memes! (What are the kids wearing? I guess “girls these days”* dress like Han Solo?) *”these days” were the early 2010s, and girls did indeed dress like Han Solo.
I would add that the sources and speed of trends has dramatically shifted. You can now have a look that goes absolutely viral on one social media platform for two weeks, but that you will never see in real life, because people only wear the outfit for the social media photoshoot, but rarely in their daily lives. I think performative fashion (i.e. showing off your wealth or adherence to a community) does exist, but it has mostly shifted to social media. When not on camera, most influencers, no matter how curated their image, will probably just wear regular non-descript clothes. So many of our social interactions have shifted online that we put more time into curating our online persona than our lives in the real world. I wonder if the rise of AI will do even more to destroy the fashion industry. If we can generate any outfit we want with a few words in a prompt box, and most people consume fashion through digital imagery, why bother putting any effort into actually sewing clothing?
I have been wanting to make a swing coat for years!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!! I would love to add a big collar like your own, but I am terrified i will go through all that work (and decorative hand stitching) and then have a horrible collar that just doesn't sit right or looks frumpy. Practice makes perfect i guess... i might start drawing up my design hehe
Thank you, and interesting. One could say that the industrialisation and commoditisation of garments and cloth (sorry for so many syllables), first of all took off in the British Isles with the birth of the industrial revolution around 1750. And before that the growth of the British Empire was driven by trade and expansion of capital markets. I'm thinking particularly of printed chintz textiles in India in the 17th Century, and the exponential growth of local (UK) and global markets for the product. People wanted fancy looking textiles that were more affordable than the woven and embroidered cloth produced expensively for centuries in Europe. Before anyone shoots me, of course I know that colonialisation had a lot of drivers, but capital markets are the one that many modern commentators miss.
In many ways it's become overly consumerism. Cheap goods fast. I still have old stuff of good quality that looks great today. The classics don't go out of style. Wear whatever looks good on you not what is "in style". I like personal style and there is a lot to chose from these days. Nothing is " out of style if styled right. No more friggin corsets that are mandatory. I own them but just for fun to wear on the outside. I have a bad back and have the braces that are like corsets so thanks but, I am glad there's so much more freedom in fashion these days.
I'm going to be interested to see what the impact of any tariffs have on the US clothing market. I think it's going to be the high end garments will see a more extravagant use of imported fabric and lower end brands going super skinny and short
Hi! what kind of thread are you using for that coat? I've been sitting here nervous for that thread but it's so strong mashallah! (The greeny beigey thread in 19:50)
I want to add that this video was scripted and filmed in October. I do feel like the end discussions about signaling safety to your chosen group still stands as a topic that needs to be pondered, even more so than before. The future of the next few years at least may provide us with a much clearer dichotomy as various groups attempt to find each other through shifting, and subtle, visual cues. But acknowledging that what signals one thing for a small community may not work outside of that range. "Safety" or "compliance" is not universal and we shouldn't expect clothing to make it so. It can certainly be included, but not relied upon solely.
A number of my American friends have said that they'll be wearing more blue and rainbows from now on. I think it's interesting that it's colour not style that is considered something you can use to signal your beliefs at work without getting in trouble.
Regarding the "signalling conformity with fashion part: my friend who works at a college has observed that nearly all of the students conform to such a strict dress code that it's practically a self-regulated uniform. My partner's kid is that age and is massively adverse to wearing anything colourful or detailed that would make her stick out despite what her personal preferences are. As a Millennial I feel like I can wear whatever I want and fashion doesn't matter, but this doesn't seem to be the case for younger generations. If "everyone is wearing t-shirts and jeans" then that is fashion even if some groups (e.g. geographical, cultural, economic, political) follow different trends, like they always have throughout history.
you know what else signals safety and community? wearing a mask in public to reduce the communicable illnesses you are passing on to people who are more susceptible to becoming sick and/or dying from these illnesses. :/
@Hanaconda_Aquaponics when an individual is trans and is at risk of harm when they wear what they're comfortable is terrible
@@technopoptart This one! I don't have an immune system and even just someone seeing my mask on and stopping to put on theirs in my presence helps makes me feel safer.
I really like you close bob haircut as you modeled your coat and smiled at the camera speaking about your upcoming trip east. Not sure that it is new as sometimes I fear your hair gets a but lost in the dark background, but thought I would call it out as it looks very 1920s and fresh and super stylish. Also, if you need a recommendation and are in the Philly area feel free to reach out
My mom grew up dirt poor in the 50s, but her momma made sure the family always looked put-together in clean, freshly pressed clothing. She tells me she misses the way everyday people dressed up to go out, even if it was just to do the grocery shopping. Each of the ladies in the store had her hair done and wore a nice dress and shoes. Fashion was 100% a means of fitting in! A little later, in the 60s, my mom's very fashionable aunt sported go-go boots, a minidress, and the bouffiest bouffant that ever bouffed to her corporate job to stand out from the men in their stodgy suits. I do sometimes wish there were more context to modern fashion, but I'm also very happy that, for the most part, I can wear what I want without it meaning anything. Fashion nihilism?
"... the bouffiest bouffant that ever bouffed..." has made my day. Thank you 😊
@@Jennyonthehill7035 Glad to hear it! Came up with it on the fly. Feel free to use it too.
I dress up specifically to do my grocery shopping, ha. Between thrifting and sewing I have so many Nice clothes and I never really go out otherwise - so where else would I wear my evening gowns and capes? But I don't mind that other people don't - lets me stand out more, ha. And takes the pressure off, so it's something I can do, not something I have to do. I think fashion nihilism is a good term.
My mom was the same in the 90s. We were poor but we were always presentable.
@@PrettyGuardian Exactly, poor but presentable. I guess we were lower-middle class in the 80s, and then definitely lower class after my parents' divorce. Still, from the way I dressed, you never knew I was lacking for anything!
My Grandfather was from Russia, and (a long time ago) he designed women's coats, had a small factory in San Francisco. He used to go for walks in the evening, look at the stores window and draw, copy ideas, go back to work the next day for new ideas. This was in the early 1905- 1930s.
So he was Jewish
are you )evvish?
Do you have more history on his styles?x
Oh, they would have been lovely.
are you jewish
I'm from a small town. We have the pajama and slipper crowd, the farm crowd, the overly badly tattooed crowd (clothing challenged), the yoga pants crowd, the metal band t-shirt crowd, and the hunting/fishing wear crowd. I know and love them all. I also sew clothes. Finding fabric that isn't fleece or quilting cotton is difficult. Thankfully, the internet fills that void. We may not be fashionable by big city standards, but we're never dull.
My small city is similar. I am one of the few "made it myself" crowd, and yes decent fabric that isn't cotton calico, cotton denim, or polyester fleece is a challenge all its own. I've taken to repurposing items meant for home decor (bedsheets, blankets, table clothes, and curtains) to fill some of that gap. Granted they are often still polyester or nylon, but at least it gets one more round of use before meeting the landfill.
We live in the same town I think, although mine is pretty dull. I live vicariously through the internet!
I remember when I first started sewing and I leaned towards tailoring and repair specifically because I couldn't imagine fabric stores selling anything that wasn't quilting cotton or pajama-type fleece!
How about browsing the online second hand stores that let you search by fabric type?
I think what’s interesting about this as somebody who is from a small town again, is the way that small town communities have a very leveled field as far as income. At least in the town I was from you were some degree of poor. If you were not, you were signaling that you were going to the city when you grew up. The passion was much more about belonging to a particular group and finding distinction. If it was to signal wealth as opposed to subculture, you went straight to name brands.
I think hyper cheap fashion has made clothing so disposable people don't need to think too much about it. I think as people move away from that model, fashion will inevitably return. Probably in ways we can't imagine today. After learning about Derek Guy and the "fashion as language" model... Well, I think just as language is innate to humanity, so is the language of fashion, it's just in a state of great flux these days.
@unrightist - The fashion industry accounts for a good share of the trash in landfills. Especially disposable trendy "fast fashion" styles meant to last for one season and made from artificial fibers. Bernadette Banner made some videos on this subject in the past.
@@MossyMozart I am well aware, yes.
You watch that CJ the X video on this?
@@samsontheladle Yes
The west is working on blockading trade with China so that you only gobble down their b*lls. Maybe this will drive the desire to appeal to locally made brands. In Romania you still have old tailors that can make you suits however you like it for about 300€, payment for fabric included. That means if you want high rise trousers with pleats and wide suit jackets with peak lapels as wide as your hand or wider, they'll do it for you as long as you give them the fabric. There's stores in the big cities where you can buy fabric, in my town they even have Vitale Barberis. Unfortunately, since they aren't long for this world, the made to measure younger tailors with exorbitant prices are slowly becoming the only options.
Clothing quality is so very low these days. Mostly polyester junk. So sad. I prefer to shop at thrift shops to seek out natural fabrics.
Same, almost exclusivly own second hand in natural fibers.
Cause I have no hang ups over hand me downs, I dress way above my monetary class
I think you're just cheap.
If you only go to fast fashion stores, yes they are junk. Mid price stores are pretty good.
The fact that mid price fashion are going out of business is because people are cheap.
Everyone says they want good quality and unwilling to pay for it.
That's why you think thrifting is good. You are just cheap.
If you support expensive stores, they won't go out of business.
Corporations answer to the market.
@@hinnahinna-j9yI think u dont know what capitalism is...
No money bro 💀
My daughter feels similarly; and she started sewing to make her own clothes from natural fibers. Thrift shops have been a source of fabric, but it’s harder to find yardage.
I found this to be very educational. I am 64, so when I really came of age was the 80s, although I was certainly round in the 70s. My parents were very conservative, and until late in their lives, they would say things like oh everybody’s just wearing jeans it’s so sad, and I never understood what they had against it. My husband is a bit older than me, born in 1954, and he says he was not allowed to wear jeans to school ever. I was at least allowed to wear them occasionally. I just always wondered what everybody had against blue jeans and how they would kind of loop that in with being a hippie. I see now that it was because people were no longer interested in expressing themselves as a certain type of American. Just fascinating. Thank you for a wonderful talk.
'fashion is dead' reminds me of 'the end of history' so it is not impossible that the purposes of fashion outlined here may just come charging back very quickly... as noted in the pinned comment
Haha I love how theoretical this is getting. True.
I love this so much, and I'd love a discussion on what "timeless" fashion actually is. I keep seeing it *everywhere*. "Don't buy this, buy that timeless piece, it'll fit into fashion for years to come!" or "Ten timeless dresses for every need", and I just don't understand what timeless actually means. What's "timeless" in 1970 or 1980 isn't "timeless" in 2020. I haven't seen that discussed anywhere, so I'm here pretty much begging you to explain it to me.
@piskeyfaeri Great question. My first thoughts are, timeless fashion does not have a lot of "novelty" features that can go out of style. Nothing over exaggerated in shape or colour, and no excessive features like ruffles, bows, busy patterns, weird necklines or collars, etc. Well made and in natural materials, (wool, cotton, linen, silk.) Staples like blazers, blouses, and hand made leather shoes.
As above, something that is not fad, that looks a lot like simple previous decades. Especially what the very wealthy were wearing in previous decades. This is especially important if you want to give off upper management vibes. I used to look (in the 70s, 80s and 90s) what the junior clerical staff was wearing and avoid that.
Another point is that if it looks like a rug, a table cloth or boudoir outfit then it is not it.
@@PiskeyFaeri generally a simple construction without strong statement elements or embellishments is going to be more durable (in terms of trends) than a highly specific style that has a lot of trendy embellishments.
I have a bit of a different reply for you. When you look through clothing of past decades/centuries, and you see something that you would still be able to wear today, that is timeless. I don't agree that it must be of simple construction, or in natural materials - those have more to do with the longevity of the garment than the timelessness. Don't forget that whoever wants to sell you "timeless" styles, still wants you to buy something. In my opinion, your own timeless style will be different from everybody else's. Your timeless style is whatever makes you shine, makes you self-confident, shows off your best features. If you think back, can you determine some clothes that made you feel like that? If yes, that's where your own timeless style can start. If you haven't found anything yet, continue experimenting until you do. Good luck!
It simply means that calling one's clothes "timeless" is currently in fashion. It will go out of style soon enough. 😉
Years ago, when I was a child, my father was a tailor at Burberry . He had a big pair of fabric shears, which I was banned from touching
21:53 OMG you went to Real Clothes, Real Lives! I am the current student research assistant for the Smith College Historic Clothing Collection. It's amazing to see the reception Real Clothes, Real Lives has gotten and the positive attention it has given the SCHCC. This exhibition is really a labor of love from Kiki Smith, who has spent nearly 50 years advocating for the collection, and the Smith students who love the collection.
I have never before heard of SCHCC. I will be looking into this. I have a fascination with Smith College and plan to visit the campus in the coming months. I primarily wish to see the Sylvia Plath Collection.
As someone who loves costuming yes yes yes, we live in a time where a style of an item of clothing can say volumes about a person!!! This was a wonderfully informative video ❤
THE COAT! Love your green one. I have one, a camel I bought in the 90s.
Or rather, my youngest daughter now has that coat; she acquired it from my closet several years ago. They never go out of style.
I had a lavender one I made in the early 90's. Loved that coat. Don't know what happened to it. I think I gave it to someone.
I could not possibly care less what anyone wears, what it cost, who made it, or what "status" it's supposed to signal, so this was a video I almost clicked away from. I may not understand the mentality that assigns significance to clothing, but I appreciate the window into that world. It was an entertaining and informative video, thank you.
14:54 I live in a little medieval town in southern italy and my local notions store was established in like 1880-something, and the design of the store has all of the stock behind a counter that goes all the way around the store, so in order to look at and buy things you need to ask them for assistance (which, as an indecisive person who doesn't want to bother anyone, is my personal nightmare) but hearing this makes it make sense a little bit more now than it did before
I remember watching Feud: Capote v Swans.
And the Swans going to the department store looking for hats and gloves and sales team saying they no longer carrying them. And realizing their era has become bygone.
I bought a short, pale pink, swing coat from Max Mara Weekend a few years ago, & it gives me so much joy to wear, even though I can't keep it looking as pristine as previous generations of my family would have! I wear it with everything I own in spring & autumn, & feel it elevates my otherwise brightly coloured, inexpensive, second hand, or homemade, wardrobe.
I love the coat, love the hand sewing shots. As I am now starting to make my own wardrobe (mostly so that my clothes fit me properly and I can make historicalish fashions), I regret the decades spent shopping trying and failing to figure out what I could buy to fit me, of seeing fashion trends come and go--most of which were not to my taste and/or not something I could wear and look good. Turns out I had the power to fix the issue by sewing. Vintage style not vintage values has changed my entire outlook on fashion.
Same.
There was a phrase used in 'The Devil's Whore' that I always loved as a compliment - "You look like yourself". I think that's where we're reaching for now.
Balenagia is selling plain black cotton tshirts between $750-2000
And they probably only cost$10 to make
@@HosCreatesand the sewist is paid 12 cents.
I don't think they sell many of those. That's just a marketing gimmick to make the brand look as inaccessible as possible. Then the people who want to look like they can afford it, go and buy something more recognizably Balenciaga to make sure it shows that they can shop there. The basics are there to sell the more expensive stuff.
It's not just Balenciaga all big fashion houses sell expensive simple tees for a fortune
@@littlesometinI hate to be the "actually" person but for many brands, the lowest end items are the moneymakers - wallets, cheapest bags and shoes, t-shirts with logos.. The "barely out of reach" pricing of the lowest tier, yet recognisable items is what drives the popularity. Knowing that for "lower class" consumer that shirt is a prized possession is what drives the "wealthy class" consumer to spend more. If the lower class consumers couldn't at all access these items, they wouldn't desire them and thus, having them would pose no meaning to the wealthy consumer. So, unbelievably, but contrary to what they say, the data shows that "wealthy" do indeed buy to impress the "poor" and it's the lower and middle class tastes that decide on what luxury looks like.
I like the idea that our participation in society is sharing our joy!
Dear madam I cannot decide what I love more: wether your soothing voice,or the super interesting concepts you explain so well, or you ability at tailoring these wonderful clothes. Thank you so much and enjoy your next trip! ❤❤❤❤
That's a gorgeous coat! And, Fashion Is Spinach is such a 1940's name for a book!
Hi Nicole ! I wish to reassure you, as a young male stylist in a luxury imported clothing boutique ; there are still plenty of people out there who can afford and value fine fabrics and elaborated designs. It's a matter of how people are educated about clothing, so please, keep on doing your amazing work of teaching.
I really love all the historical artwork and photography you select. I always take hours to get through your videos because I pause on every picture and consume all the details!
People are dressing down so you don’t stand out. No flash no cut nothing that displays quality. It marks you to thieves. Not even bags or purses. I personally love cut fit and quality but keep it now for home.
The 48 Laws of Power book talks about that. Dressing down is the new way to virtue signal. The basic idea hasn’t gone away, it just has a new way for display.
@ oh sure I was followed in a mall fortunately I have an eye for movement and caught 3 tag teaming my movements. I asked for an escort to my car and never shopped there again. How I dress now is survival not a new
Way to display. I find that virtue signal abhorrent and demeaning insulting.
Sad but true
What a great video essay on this topic. The funny thing is that you say we have lost our ability to discern quality cloth and garments, which is definitely true. However, as I have gotten further into sewing, learning so much more about fabrics and specialty techniques needed to create quality clothes, I can't unsee certain things in mass-produced garments anymore. It's turned me into a quiet snob about it now. I certainly won't speak my criticisms aloud, as I don't want to be rude, but I definitely notice things now.
I am less polite than you - I was stunned when my roommate was crowing about some name brand bag she got on sale at Nordstroms for only $100. It was printed plastic. I tried to convince her to return it and get a real leather bag on etsy for a fraction of the price but she didn't bite, ha. The obsession with names instead of quality blows my mind.
@@ariadne0w1 Here is me being less polite: People are just straight-up brain washed by brands these days. The system is working exactly as they intend it to work. Though I do have to give kudos to the very few companies out there that sell expensive stuff, but the quality is worth it. But in the end, by far the best compliment you can get on anything you wear or carry is when you can say, not "thanks, it's a so-and-so brand and it cost X amount", or even, "thanks, I got it at a thrift store". It's when you can proudly claim, "thanks! I made it myself!".
@@theladysamantha193 I agree!
I second that recommendation for Fashion is Spinach by Elizabeth Hawes. She was a fascinating individual herself! Really enriched my understanding of fashion.
Dear Nicole Rudolph, thank you very much indeed. So many beautiful and inspiring ideas that only outstanding comes to mind! I not only appreciate your perspective but blending it with many a new garment. Brilliant!
I really enjoyed the extra layer of detail you provided in the pinned comment and totally agree. I also wonder how much of the "safety" in fashion signalling changes from country to country, and location to location. Having lived in suburbs, a major city and a tiny town (all in the same country) I swear by the huge difference on how, what you wear, changes how you are perceived by your local community. It's pretty wild, and a topic I'd love to hear more about!
Among the well off, it's brand association that is considered to be the most important thing nowadays, and the style/fashionabilty of individual garments gets thought about afterwards. Nowadays styles change constantly, and we are always being pressured through advertising to participate. Most people don't alter or repair their clothes anymore, unless the item is very expensive or has sentimental value, and existing clothes are sold on/disposed of and replaced.
Modern fashion designer do NOT design to keep - they want you to throw everything out and buy it all new every year. Environmentaly unfriendly waste of money.
Love the coat! Love the history lesson! As someone who works in a thrift store I see lots of "fast" fashion come through. I also see lots of clothing being rejected due to stains, holes and on T-shirts inappropriate language or other stuff the place won't put out due to it's policies. There are also lots of brand name items and even couture items that come through. It can sometimes be mind numbing. I fully appreciate your videos on fashion and the nature of consumerism in fast fashion or the throwaway mindset.
I have 6 pure wool or cashmere item from my local thrift store, and each had at least 1 hole that is the reason I assumed they were donated, and that I mended in less than an hour. It's such a different way of thinking, I can't imagine getting rid of something initially so expensive over something so small.
@ariadne0w1 I tend to wear out my clothing to the point of no repair. Apparently I take after my Dad who would do the same. I do shop at my work once I'm off the clock. I've bought fairly expensive leggings for practically nothing and loads of yarn for very little. I'm grateful for what little I can save. I make good use of all my purchases.
@@margarethall1625 I bet! My weakspot is shoes - I end up buying most second hand because I just absolutely trash them and getting them new doesn't buy me enough extra time to justify the cost, they get worn to death in short order and can't really be repaired.
My mom tells me ready made clothes weren't a thing until the 1970s. She was still getting her clothes by picking from a catalogue and waiting until they were made at department stores in the 50s and 60s, the first item of ready made clothes she bought was a pair of jeans in the 70s and they were EXPENSIVE. And they werent "very wealthy", they were working class. My grandpa was a carpenter. Ready made clothes were what the very wealthy were buying.
Well, I was born in the 1950s and post war, ready made was the thing. When your Mom ordered from a catalogue, the department store didn't make the garment. They shipped her the ready made garment. Department stores DID do alterations in those days so if she specified an inseam length, the department store would have a seamstress alter accordingly. But they did not sew from scratch. I worked in a department store. When I was in school in the 1960s we actually looked down on 'home made' clothing because those people were considered too poor to buy in a store. So it was rare to see home made.
Ready made actually started being a thing in the mid-19th century because of the Civil War and other economic issues! It just took a while to have everything be available that way. Sears catalog started selling ready made in the 1890s, and so many others picked up in the next few decades. Having a store nearby that sells it is a whole different matter, however! My family in rural Indiana took the trolley an hour or two away to do their ready-made clothing shopping as of the 1920s. They had been buying work clothes already made in town, but "fashion" and suits were custom, catalog, or they made things themselves when they had time.
@@l.5832 - That was how Rosa Parks made her living when she was arrested on that bus - she was a seamstress in a department store making alterations.
@@l.5832 My mother made most of our clothing in the 1970s, can confirm that people looked down on me for it. But the fashionable clothing was poorly made from scratchy polyester with monofilament serged seams that cut our skin, and it wasn't worth trying to stretch our budget to wear clothing that hurt. (Mom and I both have sensory issues.)
@@NicoleRudolph depends on country
Hi, I don't know if or where you're at in your trip through the east coast, or if everything is planned yet, but the Ava Gardner museum near Raleigh, North Carolina is worth stopping to see! They have I think around a dozen or so of her outfits, and it's not an especially large museum, but definitely an interesting look into Hollywood culture of that time, it's perspective on historical clothing, and on making do with wardrobe choices from the studio. There are a couple of her personal fashion items, which I think she used in her later movies, and maybe 10 or so dresses from earlier films.
Also, there are also a collection of 19th century quilts and needlework in Old Salem, Winston-Salem, NC with the Museum of Early Southern Decorative Arts, and there's a really beautiful standout called the Pinecone Quilt, also 19th century at the museum for the indigenous Lumbee people at UNC Pembroke.
Can't wait to see what's to come with your east coast trip!
I love your swing coat! One of my favorite pieces of clothing I ever owned was a green swing coat that I wore in the 90's. I still have it but the shoulder pads are far too large for it to ever be wearable again even though it might be voluminous enough to still to accommodate my much larger and older body shape. Mine was a kind of terrible shade somewhere between olive and acid green but it made such a fantastic wardrobe piece that I bought it anyway and never regretted it.
So change the shoulder pads; should take about twenty minutes.
You're rocking that coat! It's fabulous, and the pockets look very roomy.
I'm doing my best to keep up with a baby daughter, so I've been keeping my eyes peeled for wrap tops (speaking of styles that recur throughout fashion history). I usually find that the best current looks draw heavily from vintage influences; anything else bears a strong resemblance to what they used to call knock-arounds. Meantime I am discovering once again that sewing patterns offer more of what I'm looking for than a lot of RTW.
Again, great video!
I enjoyed watching you make that coat. I'm a quilter, not a garment maker, and seeing those garment-making skills in action was really interesting.
As you have presented here, if it's not the materials it's the quantity that people have used to signal their status through their clothing. Today given that anyone can fake anything by tapping into decent-looking mass produced stuff or trolling the 2nd hand markets, I think public displays of "making it" nowadays are through the "toys" one can afford. I have a few acquaintances who present like your ordinary Joe in their dress but make up for it by hopping into their Porsches or high-end Teslas when it's time to drive home.
Yes! I've always argued that technology is just as much "fashion" as clothing now a days. That's the way the past treated it, too. Fashion stores like Milliners sold tea, games, books, tobacco, even cheese!
I look down on people hopping into Teslas. The one person I know who still has one is looking into a different car since he doesn’t want to be associated with Asshole Musk.
@@NoelleTakestheSky 🤣🤣🤣Thanks. But on a more serious note...Owning a certain make/model car, doesn't always mean the person is an asshole. Sometimes, it's because that particular model fits the need/want all in one 🙂
11:00 reminds me of the delightful movie, “Mrs Harris Goes To Paris”.
@spiralpython1989 - I agree with you about that movie.
I loved that movie
You'll enjoy the book by Paul Gallico entitled "Mrs 'Arris Goes to Paris" - the original on which the movies are ɓased.
Everyone wake up queen of youtube just posted again!!!!
I loved seeing you use weights !! My great grandma used to use butterknives to hold down her patterns
That’s actually brilliant. I’m stealing grandma’s idea! Great for straight seams, especially 😊
@@daxxydog5777 could probably use square washers (for unistrut in construction) for the same, not sure if prices are are worthwhile though. Would certainly make for amusing sewing tools though
@@Kehy_ThisNameWasAlreadyTaken why bother with square? just use round like Nicole used.
My issue with weights is that they really don't work for slippery fabrics like satin and linings where the pin holes can be so problematic.
@@mwater_moon2865 square washers are heavier than flat or fender washers that you would typically find, making them more suitable for this use.
I captured some purpose - made pattern weights from mom's studio .
Plastic coated heavy things with felt bottoms, a muffin shape that's easy to grab.
I've taken to tracing around the pattern with gothic school pastel (if I just say chalk you'll think I mean tailors', which I loathe as too faint), or ink pen and removing weights & pattern to cut.
Works great until I change my mind. Still OK if I trace on fabric's backside.
I adore your lectures. Not a single ummm or I forgot to mention. So clearly researched with analysis, examples, and further reading. And making the thing you are discussing as proof of your thesis is 🍒!
🧑🍳 💋
I just found Fashion Is Spinach in a vintage bookstore, and you're right, it's fascinating!
I like that I can immediately tell that this coat will go really well with the 20s wardrobe
Nicole, great video. I remember my mother giving me a swing jacket and swing coat in the late 70's / early 80's and feeling terribly chic when wearing them. The style is timeless and versatile. My coat had the wrap around side pockets like the one you showed today and had a floofy fur collar. Good luck moving forward with your plans and your East Coast visit! I know you will do well.
Hi Nicole, great video. I'm a big hate lover. I had to buy a new hat last weekend. Most people don't wear hats anymore. I love a good fedora or bowler. It's all about personal style. I like wider leg trousers. I have long legs and I injured my left leg, my calve is twice the size as it is use to be. So, I have adapted. The hell with what is in, I go with what works for me. Love your work.❤❤❤❤
OOOOOO!!!! I absolutely love the clothing you create! The acid green colour is amazing, especially in that you were able to match the double knit? furry detailing. The buttons are perfect, the top stitching perfect and the swing is so much fun! The coat colour, as you know, suits you so much and looks wonderful on you. I remember my mother wearing this coat in the late 50's and early 60's. Regarding quality, my grandmother taught me to look for a full-length or at least 1/2 length chamois hidden in the back of the coat between the lining and the exterior, for warmth, as an indication of quality. I understood the feel of cloth, impressed upon me, and after reaching menopause, appreciate the breathability of natural fibers so much. I think we are returning to a time when money spent on good quality fabrics, if you can even find them, let alone identify them, and making a small set of clothes for oneself will be coming back just due to loss of ability to purchase. For now, there are still quality items to be found second hand, but in time, we'll have to find other sources. We won't have a mom at home to make garments for us; it definitely is a time investment! Ability to purchase will always affect our choices. Thank you so much for another very informative post. I can't wait to see your travel wardrobe!
I'm definitely learning to make clothes, for this reason.
@@jujubesification Same here. My mother is teaching me the basics and handed me some old books on how to get every measurement you need.
I have autism and sensitivity because of it. Clothing was always a nightmare, and I always settled for clothes that were at least comfy for me. I can't wait to make clothes that look just as nice as they feel! I already got a general idea on what style I enjoy :)
I never got to stop making/altering clothes, as I'm irregular proportions. (I'm a bit tall for a female but I'll all leg, so I literally buy petite tops if they're short sleeved and then tall for pants. Though for shorts I have to wear mens', because womens' are just too short. Dresses intended for below the knee or long sleeved shirts not made by me, must be altered.)
That said my daughter from age 4 to 15 was too skinny for her height (when she started K at age 5 she wore a 3T in the waist, and a 6x -- aka 7 -- in length) so for a decade of her childhood all of her nightgowns/pjs and pants were made or altered by me or my mother for her and I can attest, even cheap cotton prints cost more than the completed garment costs. For jeans and the like it cost less money for me to buy off the rack jeans and then add fleece or fake fur as cuffs or crocheted lace as ruffles to the bottom of the leg or buy a larger size and spend a few hours (at min wage) altering the waistband then it did for me to actually buy just the denim.
@@mwater_moon2865 Woah! that's not easy to do on minimum wage and working full time. Real kudos to you!
Thanks for the correction. I'm from Canada and my thinking for everyday clothing related to other times... the 50's to the late 70's. As far as making a coat or other clothing of this quality level, including tailoring, fitting and material quality, which will last a long time, I think it might be less expensive than buying at least a coat of equal quality, but you would know more than I would! Thank you!
@@happyplum2822 I hear you. My daughter preferred soft clothing. That's really cool. I hope you find it fun to do and rewarding.
What a fascinating and thorough investigation into the history of fashion! This was such an excellent presentation and brought up so many different ideas and experiences for me. The movie "Mrs. Harris Goes to Paris" is an interesting (and uplifting) look at the experience of going to a French fashion house for custom couture in the 1950's. The series "Miss Fisher's Murder Mysteries" set in 1928 Australia is a delight of gorgeous fashion for the senses and explores its use as well in feminism and other ways.
Also, I loved getting to watch you sew. My mom, who passed 13 years ago, was a prolific seamstress who sewed most of her own clothes. I have many thoughts now about her views on fashion and appearance and the historical influences of those views. I'm glad to see that things have gotten less rigid and classist over time, though there will always be issues and ways to use fashion to "other" people. My mom worked hard to look "put-together," I think to compensate for her struggles with weight and body image and feeling inferior. In her final month of life, she told me in hindsight that she wished she would have cared less and if given a chance, would have made her clothes less loose-fitting in an attempt to hide her body.
Before I watch: I see so much fashion inspiration coming from drag costuming. I'm a faithful Drag Race watcher and what I see there in makeup, hair, lingerie and garments, jewelry and shoes are showing up on designer runways and photoshoots. Some of the most avant garde looks are now edging towards mainstream. And men are finally included in the fashion fun! I've always wondered why men couldn't play with fashion like women do. Now on to your video.
That coat is STUNNING!
Fashion is fun, when you know what looks good on your body shape. As a child and teen I didnt care . In my 20s i wanted to be taken seriously. At 28 i realised I felt frumpy and decided to chose elegance. Now, in my mid 30s I love fashion but I'm picky and I know what I like. But it took several years.
It's fascinating the way life experiences influence this- I'm a midwestern engineer/ lab scientist who loves historical fashion (I've made a wool loose gown!) and a queer woman. I spend so much time thinking about how to signal that I belong to the same class/ status/ am worthy of the same consideration as the men around me at work, who wear the button downs or pullovers and khakis/ dark wash jeans that are a class marker. The jeans and sweaters that the women wear are similar; I match myself to it, but- it signifies. Looking around the office, you more or less know someone's position and class by their clothes.
This is just at work, and I agree it falls apart outside of work, but- queering clothing still gets you noticed here, inside and outside the subculture. I'm beginning to suspect it's harder to see because we live now, not then, but that there's always been so many subtle differences to fashion that the people wearing them would say there was infinite variation then as well
20:00 I would argue that, more than "we have developed to a point where we know that looking put together is not a sign of virtue" it's more that: it's cheap and easy to look put together now (as you also cover). If it doesn't break the bank or occupy a full day in your week to perform hegemonic clothing values, the opportunity cost is way lower and the presentation fails to effectively signal in-group membership.
There is a picture in my mind of my grandparents in the 40s - 50s, with my grandmother in a coat of this style, and I just had to go look! I think she is! Its the A-line shape, with wide cuffs, what looks like a peter pan collar, and a short line of buttons. She looks very stylish!
.
Thank you for another video
Grandmother is still in style.
14:08 to 14:36 is just a straight up lie. “Shopping and excess consumerism was a way of life for everyone” this is simply not true. The majority of Americans at the time remember were dressed with a mix of handmade clothes and store bought all the way up into the early 80s. Being poor was a normal thing for millions of Americans and hand-sewn clothes made from patterns were extremely popular and normal, most everyone was not out buying the latest clothes, they had grandmas, aunts, and mothers at home making them. Most Americans could not afford to go to the mall regularly until the 90s. Just ask your family
Well, this confirms that the vintage green wool swing coat I bought most likely really is original 50s. It's lovely and I wish I had more occasions to wear it. ❤
Oh my god. I love that coat, especially that colour! Beautiful !!
Thank you ❤ thoroughly enjoyed...even as late as the 1970s I remember that many women particularly married didn't have access to their own money. Mums accessed or made many of there clothes and altered those in their wardrobes for changing styles, all the kids had some homemade clothes. I would pour over my mum's pattern books but hated standing still to get fitted.😅..
When I was out with my mom I spotted a nice beanie with fading yarn. But I had three issues with it. One, that it's made of polyester and acrylic with only 4% wool. Why would I want a plastic bag on my head?. Secondly that it cost around 35usd. Why would I pay that for a plastic bag? And thirdly that it's supporting fast fashion. So I found a skein of yarn 100% wool that had the fading effect, and a mohair strand because I wanted to replicate the beanies fluffyness (which was plastic but mine wouldn't be), and took up my needles and starting to knit. I hope to be able to wear it soon as it's gotten cold outside.
I love your coat! And watching you applying your skills is just a delight! Please consider making a chill out video where you use more footage and talking us through the process - I feel confident that I would see quite a few of similar pieces or pieces inspired by it out and about. It seems like very nice and comfortable garment and it's really quite elegant! I love the colour!
Thank you so much fort this video! I love all your videos, but this one not only was posted on my birthday, it also inspired me in the making of a coat I have been planning for a while now.
Beautiful coat! I had a 'duster' as we called in in the 80's. It was lighter weight than this but was a wonderful garment. Very inspiring. Thanks for the information and the sewing lesson! Wonderful!
Nicole, I love your well researched fashion videos!
God!! I grew up in the early 60’s and up until 3 years ago (when I went full remote) I had an outfit for every thing and very skilled at how to achieve my look with a small budget. I really miss those days!!! Now I express my status in how I put things or what bag I carry. Or how I make up nails or face. Cheaper and easier and works with jeans and active wear 🤗
My grandmother made her family's clothing all the time my mom grew up and even some of my clothes as a child. Wouldn't it be lovely if everyone could afford custom tailored clothing, even if it was just that they did the labor themselves. The price of textiles is sometimes MORE expensive than buying cheap stuff off the rack. It really feels sometimes like Corporate America (or internationals) have their foot on the accelerator down to the floor and there's no avoiding the cliff ahead.
I love watching all the sewing and particularly all the different ways you are finishing your seams! It's biggest decision i have to make whenever I sew
Fantastic discussion
Excellent analysis
Thank you Ma'am
The coat looks great! Well done. It's a big project.
Oooh, I'm looking forward to hearing about your travels. And your coat is so lush. Thank you for the education and inspiration.
What a gorgeous coat! and I loved the dark green sweater worn in the cutting-fabric section! Deeply envious... with thanks.
That wide collar looks fabulous on you! Did I see the CN Tower in there? Another trip to the Bata Museum? I went into one of their stores in Prague a few weeks ago, just for the nostalgia.
As societal constructs relaxed, so did fashion.
Individual expression was always important (when it could be afforded); individual style is simply more valued today.
It’s a balance. Or a pendulum.
When the fabric was the expensive part of a piece, labor was cheap.
Now that labor is expensive, those with the surplus income have their things made by designers; those handy with a surplus of time learn to make their own.
There are still societal standards, they’re just less understood unless you’re an insider in that group.
And the groups themselves are more elastic.
“Dress for success.”
I really loved watching your sewing in this video - so helpful for a home sewing to see these techniques ❤
I loved this one Nicole 🎉 The narrative of the evolution of fashion and the making of the chartreuse coat as it was made was so satisfying. Welcome back to the East Coast 🧳
I really enjoy your intelligent videos. The research that you do and your skills are impressive. Looking forward to seeing your trip!
How you know you’re aging: when you start feeling that fashion doesn’t matter.
What an interesting look into the topic of fashion, and how its purpose in history and modern use continues to change
I loved Eve Arden (as Miss Brooks) in her Swing Coat. Such fun.
I'm from the 3rd world, this is our big city: We've tiktok fashion crowd addicted to Temu, heavily inspired by 00s crowd due to social media, "I do not care" crowd which are positively Victorian- they wear any tshirt with any pants with plastic sneakers to cover themselves. There are also a small group that wears middle class brands like Zara, but for them Zara feels designer lol.
In this scene, I believe fashion is going to be amazing (again) we began to love vintage, we learnt to sew with linen and wool. Personally I wear a 39 year old wool pink coat, for 7 years. I handwash it, I dry it by kissing :)
Another great, informative video. Thank you! And I'm very intrigued about your upcoming roadtrip videos. Looking forward to them 😊
I love the buttons you used on your coat.
They were in my vintage stash from my grandmother! I think they were 1980s, but they actually are meant to be little mushrooms!
I'm looking forward to seeing more of what you experienced in Toronto, and hope you had a good time here! (am from Toronto)
I didn't know Nicole was here!
1:26 AH! One of my favorite Star Wars memes! (What are the kids wearing? I guess “girls these days”* dress like Han Solo?)
*”these days” were the early 2010s, and girls did indeed dress like Han Solo.
@@kate_m. I still love a silly little vest.
@@Eloraurora I just got a Land's End jacket at Costco that comes with a quilted vest you can button into the coat or wear separately.
I would add that the sources and speed of trends has dramatically shifted. You can now have a look that goes absolutely viral on one social media platform for two weeks, but that you will never see in real life, because people only wear the outfit for the social media photoshoot, but rarely in their daily lives. I think performative fashion (i.e. showing off your wealth or adherence to a community) does exist, but it has mostly shifted to social media. When not on camera, most influencers, no matter how curated their image, will probably just wear regular non-descript clothes. So many of our social interactions have shifted online that we put more time into curating our online persona than our lives in the real world. I wonder if the rise of AI will do even more to destroy the fashion industry. If we can generate any outfit we want with a few words in a prompt box, and most people consume fashion through digital imagery, why bother putting any effort into actually sewing clothing?
Keen insight
I just love watching you sew and your voice is quite meditative.
i had to watch this TWICE, so enjoyable. once to listen~ once to watch the LOVELY video. enjoy your travels!
Thank you so much for your very intelligent observations. I love your soothing voice! And the coat is divine!
the b roll throughout this is so pleasing to watch!
Thank you for educating us. And you have a gift as a fashion designer. Congratulations on your amazing creation.
I totally agree and I’m very happy to see this. We are evolving beyond shallow values. Heartwarming ❤
That coat is gorgeous. Some can still see quality fabrics and workmanship!
❤
Love watching you make stuff ❤ I’m making my first pair of stays and I’ve only just watched your stays video 100mil times
I have been wanting to make a swing coat for years!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!
I would love to add a big collar like your own, but I am terrified i will go through all that work (and decorative hand stitching) and then have a horrible collar that just doesn't sit right or looks frumpy.
Practice makes perfect i guess... i might start drawing up my design hehe
Thank you, and interesting. One could say that the industrialisation and commoditisation of garments and cloth (sorry for so many syllables), first of all took off in the British Isles with the birth of the industrial revolution around 1750. And before that the growth of the British Empire was driven by trade and expansion of capital markets. I'm thinking particularly of printed chintz textiles in India in the 17th Century, and the exponential growth of local (UK) and global markets for the product. People wanted fancy looking textiles that were more affordable than the woven and embroidered cloth produced expensively for centuries in Europe. Before anyone shoots me, of course I know that colonialisation had a lot of drivers, but capital markets are the one that many modern commentators miss.
In many ways it's become overly consumerism. Cheap goods fast. I still have old stuff of good quality that looks great today. The classics don't go out of style. Wear whatever looks good on you not what is "in style". I like personal style and there is a lot to chose from these days. Nothing is " out of style if styled right. No more friggin corsets that are mandatory. I own them but just for fun to wear on the outside. I have a bad back and have the braces that are like corsets so thanks but, I am glad there's so much more freedom in fashion these days.
I'm going to be interested to see what the impact of any tariffs have on the US clothing market. I think it's going to be the high end garments will see a more extravagant use of imported fabric and lower end brands going super skinny and short
People are going to return to buying fewer pieces and having to take care of them.
Your coat turned out beautifully.
Thanks Nicole I always enjoy the information you share.👏🏼👏🏼👏🏼 🍂🍁🍂
Hi! what kind of thread are you using for that coat? I've been sitting here nervous for that thread but it's so strong mashallah! (The greeny beigey thread in 19:50)