Good job man. 2 things I learned last year: 1/4" rise is crucial - if you go any higher, you risk having the water run down the pipe faster than the solids do. That means solids will linger and eventually create snag points for further, snags and eventually clogging - possibly. Can reduce this by using the 1/4" rise.
I haven't had luck posting sources so here's a quote that debunks that, you can google it: "Myth To Rest (...) Of course, I found out that the professor was setting me up. This lead to the presentation of a new equation. The equation calculated the minimum flow rate to keep solids in suspension in a sewer system. The inverse of the equation calculated the maximum pitch before the liquids ran away from the solids. Of course, the answer to the maximum pitch was infinity. In other words, you could never reach that point."
It is insightful and practical. Exactly what I was hoping to find. So easy to follow. No nonsense in between about a cat dog or random useless knowledge. Keeping this video forever. You have an amazing gift for laying out the details so they can be easily understood.
I’m a licensed plumber and this is mostly good advice. Just check the pitch on your pipe. 2in pipe should have 1/4” fall. 3in and 4in pipe should have 1/8” pitch. Also the location of your vent is off. If you’re going to be doing plumbing yourself you should consult with the local inspector before you run any pipe. Depending on your jurisdiction they should allow one free consultation per permit. Also if you need dimensions on the fixtures you’re going to be setting, you can request a submittal page from the manufacturer that should have the recommended dimensions
@@VASYL198 unless that 2” vent picking up the shower is also picking up the toilet. Can’t tell how many feet from toilet In my state it has to be within 8 feet …
wow, this video is three years old and today June 9, 2023 I am doing the exact same thing you're doing, and if I did not see this video I would've have done everything wrong. Thank you for the information I can't express how invaluable this video is.
Great video, built my pole barn/house pre internet days. Used Charlie Wing "Visual Handbook of Building and Remodeling". Different size pipe have different allowed distance to vent. Whole house plumbing under slab. Still works great 26 years later. Your system I'm sure works fine. Glad to see the internet is full of hopeless do it your selfers like myself. Enjoyed the comments.
Thank you for helpful video. Not sure if anyone mentioned it, but the cleanout looks like it has an elbow to make the 90 degree turn. I think you want a long sweep 90, so a snake can easily make that turn if unclogging in future.
Thanks Michael, I honestly didnt think of that and your right that would have been a good idea to add. Sadly this video is a year old so its all burried already. 😀
I always like when plumbing vids are recommended to me! This was a nice find. I'm seeing a bunch of "too much slope" comments though. This does not apply to plastic piping. Go look inside your pvc/abs piping. Notice it's really smooth and slick. Now wet it. Its gets really slippery, and will not catch anything. Your toilet flushes with a little over a gallon of water. All that water will carry any solids all the way to your city sewer tap or septic tank with proper pitch. Some codes say atleast ⅛" for 3", others say ¼" for 3". Now go look inside cast iron piping. It's not so slick, and actually quite rough on the inside compared with plastic piping. The "too much slope" idea came about with this cast iron piping. Inspectors were worried that with too much slope, water would flow faster than solids, leaving solids behind due to the rough surface of the cast iron. Just something you may consider next time. You're fine with the slope you have. I'm sure you've never had any problems with this rough in.
Thanks for the comment. As I have also had a lot of extremely rude comments I deleted as well. But this setup did pass inspection and works fine. So I felt maybe a lot of the negative comments were just trolls. 😀 But I do also understand different areas can have different requirements as well. Just all depends on the inspector for that area.
@@BevinsBuilds honestly it is just how TH-cam is. Miserable people want to go out of there way to somehow one up you by saying you did this and that wrong. I get them too, all day. Still hard to understand what is wrong with those people. I am considering doing my own rough in under slab plumbing so that's why I am here and your video does help. An honest thank you, you did not need to take the time to make and share the video but you did. Tell the haters to make a video of the "right way" they would do it, their nay sayer comments have no value.
Depending on state and city ..... some measurements and facts given may vary some....... for example, its ideal to grade trunk line between 1/8" to 1/4" of fall per foot. Any more and your liquids out run your solids leaving them behind which can build up and cause a stoppage. Good video ...... just check local and state regulations and codes.
Use the code recommended slope. Especially if you're getting inspected. They want it to match code, not vary from it. The slope is prescriptive on this for a reason. But it is a good thing to note what the lines mean.
Not sure if anyone has already made this point…? But you need to stay as closest possible to the quarter-inch fall per foot or rise, as you called it. Any fall that drops faster than a quarter inch per foot you will have liquid separating from solid, and that will create a clog!!!
Yes and I should have been more clear in the video as when I made the statement I was refering to the shower drain line. But all solid waste lines should stay at 1/4 per foot rise. :)
i know it is mentioned in code but i do have doubts about it. Why would a more sloped pipe be clog compared to a less sloped pipe? Gravity should also play its role. If the 1/4 per foot rise is really important, then why vertical sewer pipe are not formulated as such?
@@MrDW-ei1fe is this an opinion or an established fact? are there any tested made on different slopes of pipes? and does these tests have reports for reference.
@@halalmeatshophk established fact. It’s common place in the plumbing trade to annually run an experiment to insure that gravity is real. 6 months ago at my shop we had the control group put dwv at the proper fall as per code while the experimental group puts it at a greater slope than is recommended. 3 months after we dug up the pipes and cut them open. The ones with greater fall than is required by code had a significant amount of waste build up whereas the ones at proper fall had none.
I'm getting ready to build and I want to do as much as possible on my own to save money, child support is killing me. This was a great video for what I'm planning on building.
Quarter inch rise because you start at the bottom or clean out and go up, not 1/4” fall. The vent on the shower is over pipe diameter for grade, will syphon out probably. And tough to tell in the video, but min 2” wet vent on toilets. Plus toilet is over graded. The poopoo will be sticky sticky on the pipes
Thank you for sharing since I am doing something on a larger scale and u north where the lines have to be 4 feet underground to prevent freezing. This was a good start. Was wondering if I were to connect 3-4 washrooms and 2-3 sinks how many venting lines would be required. to be installed along the loop.
Question, by having the toilet drain higher than the shower drain wouldn’t the water from the toilet seep out thru the shower if there was a clogged down stream?
As per code you have to have equal going through the roof on venting as you do on the building drain, e.g. 3" out 3" through the roof. Two 2" and one 1/12" minimum. Or one 3" and every other ties in to that based on the fixture unit size.
Are you using Oatey Medium Clear PVC Cement? How do you find it for working with 2-3" pipes? In case you have also tried the Regular (viscosity) cement, which one do you prefer? I am trying to decide on which one to go with for 2-4" pipes and according to their description both will work fine as Regular can be used up to 4" and Medium up to 6".
Just so you know 1/4 rise is necessary so that some water remains in drain longer to keep paper from sticking to the bottom of pipe if you use 1/2 or worst 3/4 inch the water flows out too fast and leaves the paper behind to build up.
Awesome video .. the one thing i will add (that i got from a plumber once) - is that you don't want to put excessive slope because when you do, the "liquids" tend to leave the "solids" behind. Thought i'd mention that just in case there's any truth to it :) Cheers.
Yes you dont want to run it on too much of a slope. Sorry I didnt learn that until after I didnthis already. But the plumber friend I have told me that being this is such a short run that the pitch ofnthe line is fine. My finished pitch ended up being roughly 3/8 for 2 ft before the 45.
I want to add I state a few things wrong in this video. The first is any pipe that has solid waste shoukd never have a pitch greater than 1/4 per foot and the second is that the pipe I referred to as the cleanout will actually be the vent. :)
This is the video showing what you should not do. The slope into main drain from the shower create a S-trap which violate a plumbing code. You should put them on level. Now you need to dig the slab to make it correct.
if the main out horizontal pipes are to be sloped at a slight angle, then wouldn't the vertical connecting pipes be also a little slanted and not perpendicular to the ground? what is the technique to install vertical pipes perpendicular to the ground and yet the connecting horizontal pipes be sloped? i do assume here that vertical pipe bonding with horizontal pipe are properly angled at 90 degree to avoid leakage.
Have you ever found an answer to this question? I’ve been wondering the exact same thing and I can not find anything on the internet that addresses this.
@@conw5144 No i didn't find the solution yet. I really wonder how they solve this problem. If you do find any guides or video about it, do share with me.
@@halalmeatshophk Apparently, the pitch on horizontal drain pipes is not enough to really affect the adjoining vertical pipes. Plus there is a small amount of wiggle room when a pvc pipe is inserted into a hub on a connecting piece. This was told to me by a licensed builder who also has had experience in plumbing. Hope this helps!
How's it going boss Now I'm not a licensed plumber but I did a restroom for a client of mine and it turns out his brother-in-law was a master plumber the only thing I got wrong was according to him The 90 from the toilet he wanted me to put a long sweep 90 instead of a short 90 That's all I would change but otherwise it looks good!
This brings back memories! Trust me...in the dead of winter when you’re in the middle of building or a live stream (pun intended!), you’ll be wishing you had a toilet! LOL Are you going to put a sink out there at so you can clean parts and things?
Lol, yes a winter stream would not be a good thing. I would like to put a full bath in this and a parts cleaning area as well. Thats all going to depend on when and if I am ever able to get a septic field installed. Although from what I have been looking into I dont think it will be to bad at all to do. As they have some smaller holding tank options being this isnt a residence.
Can tell a lot of DIY plumbers in here think they know what there talking about 😂 looks good man should work out nice just try to avoid a flat vent. Hard to explain over a TH-cam comment but you can find it on the internet
Thanks, I actually was in a hurry when I did the video because the concrete was on its way. So I know I didnt describe everything as good as I should have.
Nice video! Easy to understand and to watch. Plumbing can be difficult at best for some people tackle. Other than a couple of code violations It should work. Might have a bit of a problem holding trap seals with the changes in height from the trunk line. Hope it all works for you. By the way 3” was a good choice if the septic doesn’t allow for a 4” inlet.
The toilet is missing a vent. The shower venting will not work, you broke the plane. If the the 2 inch wye fitting was flat and not on a slant it would work. you do not need a 3 inch cleanout inside of a small cabin or house. The toilet is considered a cleanout since you can remove it. The overall look was good and layout looked straight. 12 1/2 inches from from framing to toilet center is perfect since most people forget about drywall when they say 12".
I believe the code states that vents must connect to a horizontal drain at a minimum 45° angle. Meaning you could not use a tee or a wye to connect a vent to a drain if all pipe connections are coplanar (flat). I think his layout looks good, but if the 2 inch wye were flat, it would be… not good.
Your drain and vent going out need to equal the same area per code, minimum drain slope is 1/8" which needs to be engineered. You shouldn't use anymore than 1/4" because your liquid will flow past your solids. That way it will take it all down and not leave solids in your drain line.
It is funny I actually just responded to this on another thread. The thousand gallon tank number one I actually missed spoke it was 750 gallons but number to the price tag on that now is considerably higher. This was listed at my local Menards for $182 at the time of purchase and I only paid $182 but it's because they had it mismarked they actually corrected the price the day that I purchased it and now I believe they are between five and six hundred dollars.
@@BevinsBuilds ok i see ,well thank you so much for replying i do appreciate it greatly,ill have to look for your other channel i like to watxh your videos when i get a chance,again thank you keep up the good work!!!
Enjoyeyed your video. But one thing wrong. The 1/4” rise is so that the water won’t run off and leave the waste. You always need to stay with the 1/4” rise.
What about a composting facility? It is quite a walk to your home from my vantage point of view. You know, once you start building even basic needs become 2nd place😄. Will you have a sink? Small kitchen counter? You know for coffee, washing hands or bricks. I would have a small cooler for refreshments. It promises to be quite cozy in the winter.
Its far but not to terribly far away. From the house im 164 ft :) and yes in the winter I am sure I will desperately want a bathroom lol. I do want a small full bathroom at some point complete with a shower but that will probably be a project that will wait until next year. But the ultimate plan when I can do it is with the shower it will be used as a washing station for lego and then I would also have a toilet and small sink as well. Possibly even a small wet bar/kitchen as well. Just big enough for snacks and maybe some plates and glasses. My priority this year is to get it wired and insulated so I can get back to building lego. Which is going to be a rather large task itself being I will be doing it all solo for the most part.
Very well planned,@@BevinsBuilds . It does make sense to have all the connections ready. Regarding your electrical. You still have to connect it to your house right. Or are you connecting to the city's line? Thank you.
Also, how I wish I could volunteer and help. You might get some help from local AFOLs. But it also can take away of your personal experience. At any rate, keep up the amazing job!
@@makitagut2472 Thanks Makita I appreciate it. If you lived locally I would invite you over :) as for the electrical. I really wanted to have a new service installed but wow the price for new service is pretty expensive. The electrical wasnt to bad (1700) but the natural gas line was outrageous (4200) i still dont understand why it would be such a huge coat difference. As if anything the electrical should have been the most expensive in my opinion.
Thank you,@@BevinsBuilds! What?! Who would have thought there was such a difference in price. I agree. I would have thought that electrical power is much more expensive. Huge surprise there 😮
I would totally put in a toilet. When I am building, I always keep going until I absolutely have to go. I also recommend putting in a sink and counter so you have space to wash Lego or have a coffee maker and stuff.
I totally agree but its more of a cost issue than anything. As I dont live in the city for me to have a restroom I have to install a septic tank and field. If the tank for my house was closer I could tie into it but its so far away I wouldnt have the correct flow for my drain lines for it to work. But at some point I will have a bathroom in it, just not sure when. :)
@@BevinsBuilds I don't think the shower trap is vented either - that 2" wye would have to be horizontal (with 1/4 in/ft slope) to qualify as a "horizontal wet vent" according to UPC, at least. It will probably work, but it's not code.
I dont live in Georgia so I cant honestly say. But as a home owner you are allowed to pull a permit and do whatever work to your house you want without being licensed. As for general repairs you dont need a permit either.
I got lucky with a scratch and dent, but not even that prices for them over the last year have climbed considerably sadly. But all building supplies have.
If you install a sand/cement shower or a Schluter shower there is an additional curb you may want. Their dimensions are larger than an acrylic shower base. That would likely be added onto the 30” dimension of the shower. And that would mean your toilet would need to be moved over another 4” or so.
None of that plumbing would be legal in the state of Massachusetts. There's no vent for the toilet. The vent for the shower is choked off by the 45 degree bend. The only legitimate vent in that system is the two in line for the lav. In my state you would also need a full three inch Stack vent, which is not present.
No i wish I was on sewer. I will have to install a small septic field if I decide to put the plumbing to use. But its cheaper and easier to do the rough plumbing now as opposed to later is why I did it anyway. :)
Finally, a simple explanation of the general codes for slab rough plumbing! Thank you. Four years later.
@relerfordable He touched on good points for codes. But his layout is all wrong.
@@4PFLikeBaby Hahaha! I did my rough the other day. The plumber came in and took most of it apart and said nice try. 🙂
Good job man.
2 things I learned last year:
1/4" rise is crucial - if you go any higher, you risk having the water run down the pipe faster than the solids do.
That means solids will linger and eventually create snag points for further, snags and eventually clogging - possibly.
Can reduce this by using the 1/4" rise.
I haven't had luck posting sources so here's a quote that debunks that, you can google it:
"Myth To Rest
(...) Of course, I found out that the professor was setting me up. This lead to the presentation of a new equation. The equation calculated the minimum flow rate to keep solids in suspension in a sewer system. The inverse of the equation calculated the maximum pitch before the liquids ran away from the solids. Of course, the answer to the maximum pitch was infinity. In other words, you could never reach that point."
Over kill is not always a good thing.
That's how I remember the rise as well. If you have a rise in excess of 1/4" it could suck you right down the toilet!
You are right about simply explained videos not being widely available for the subject. Thank you for this video, very helpful.
Your welcome and thanks for watching :)
We are looking to build next year and I've been looking for information on this. Thanks so much for sharing - much appreciated!
It is insightful and practical. Exactly what I was hoping to find. So easy to follow. No nonsense in between about a cat dog or random useless knowledge. Keeping this video forever. You have an amazing gift for laying out the details so they can be easily understood.
Thanks I appreciate it.
Thank you. I'm in the same boat. I'm building a barn and want to rough in. Thanks for all of the information! It helped a lot.
Excellent vid! Great info for my upcoming project. Thanks a lot.
I’m a licensed plumber and this is mostly good advice. Just check the pitch on your pipe. 2in pipe should have 1/4” fall. 3in and 4in pipe should have 1/8” pitch. Also the location of your vent is off. If you’re going to be doing plumbing yourself you should consult with the local inspector before you run any pipe. Depending on your jurisdiction they should allow one free consultation per permit. Also if you need dimensions on the fixtures you’re going to be setting, you can request a submittal page from the manufacturer that should have the recommended dimensions
Hi ! I don't see ventelation for toilet , only for shower, it's ok?
What I don’t understand is when your looking at the plans how do you know where to put your pipes?
@@VASYL198 unless that 2” vent picking up the shower is also picking up the toilet. Can’t tell how many feet from toilet In my state it has to be within 8 feet …
For being a so callex(licensed plumber?) Grade is the least of the problems with this ground work!
Great tutorial and information. It is nice to have the visuals and the specs as you explained them. Thanks a lot!
wow, this video is three years old and today June 9, 2023 I am doing the exact same thing you're doing, and if I did not see this video I would've have done everything wrong. Thank you for the information I can't express how invaluable this video is.
Everything THIS guy did is wrong though. I really hope you didn’t follow this video’s advice!
Great video, built my pole barn/house pre internet days. Used Charlie Wing "Visual Handbook of Building and Remodeling". Different size pipe have different allowed distance to vent. Whole house plumbing under slab. Still works great 26 years later. Your system I'm sure works fine. Glad to see the internet is full of hopeless do it your selfers like myself. Enjoyed the comments.
Thank you for helpful video. Not sure if anyone mentioned it, but the cleanout looks like it has an elbow to make the 90 degree turn. I think you want a long sweep 90, so a snake can easily make that turn if unclogging in future.
Thanks Michael, I honestly didnt think of that and your right that would have been a good idea to add. Sadly this video is a year old so its all burried already. 😀
Thank you ...this info is what i ve been looking for
I always like when plumbing vids are recommended to me! This was a nice find. I'm seeing a bunch of "too much slope" comments though. This does not apply to plastic piping. Go look inside your pvc/abs piping. Notice it's really smooth and slick. Now wet it. Its gets really slippery, and will not catch anything. Your toilet flushes with a little over a gallon of water. All that water will carry any solids all the way to your city sewer tap or septic tank with proper pitch. Some codes say atleast ⅛" for 3", others say ¼" for 3". Now go look inside cast iron piping. It's not so slick, and actually quite rough on the inside compared with plastic piping. The "too much slope" idea came about with this cast iron piping. Inspectors were worried that with too much slope, water would flow faster than solids, leaving solids behind due to the rough surface of the cast iron. Just something you may consider next time. You're fine with the slope you have. I'm sure you've never had any problems with this rough in.
Thanks for the comment. As I have also had a lot of extremely rude comments I deleted as well. But this setup did pass inspection and works fine. So I felt maybe a lot of the negative comments were just trolls. 😀 But I do also understand different areas can have different requirements as well. Just all depends on the inspector for that area.
@@BevinsBuilds honestly it is just how TH-cam is. Miserable people want to go out of there way to somehow one up you by saying you did this and that wrong.
I get them too, all day.
Still hard to understand what is wrong with those people.
I am considering doing my own rough in under slab plumbing so that's why I am here and your video does help. An honest thank you, you did not need to take the time to make and share the video but you did. Tell the haters to make a video of the "right way" they would do it, their nay sayer comments have no value.
Depending on state and city ..... some measurements and facts given may vary some....... for example, its ideal to grade trunk line between 1/8" to 1/4" of fall per foot. Any more and your liquids out run your solids leaving them behind which can build up and cause a stoppage. Good video ...... just check local and state regulations and codes.
Not actually proven true.
Great video and excellent tip about the second line on the spirit level, until seeing this I was vague about how to layout my under slab plumbing.
Use the code recommended slope. Especially if you're getting inspected. They want it to match code, not vary from it. The slope is prescriptive on this for a reason. But it is a good thing to note what the lines mean.
Best Video on rough plumb hands down! Thank you sir this is very much appreciated
Thanks
Exactly what I was looking for… I owe you money!
Well done video, Sir! Thank you. Gave me EXACTLY the info I needed.
Thanks, glad to hear it.
Thanks for sharing. Was looking for this information for a while! Good video. Mind the pitch!
Not sure if anyone has already made this point…?
But you need to stay as closest possible to the quarter-inch fall per foot or rise, as you called it.
Any fall that drops faster than a quarter inch per foot you will have liquid separating from solid, and that will create a clog!!!
Yes and I should have been more clear in the video as when I made the statement I was refering to the shower drain line. But all solid waste lines should stay at 1/4 per foot rise. :)
i know it is mentioned in code but i do have doubts about it. Why would a more sloped pipe be clog compared to a less sloped pipe? Gravity should also play its role. If the 1/4 per foot rise is really important, then why vertical sewer pipe are not formulated as such?
@@halalmeatshophk the water gets ahead of the turd and the turd slows down and eventually hardens.
@@MrDW-ei1fe is this an opinion or an established fact? are there any tested made on different slopes of pipes? and does these tests have reports for reference.
@@halalmeatshophk established fact. It’s common place in the plumbing trade to annually run an experiment to insure that gravity is real. 6 months ago at my shop we had the control group put dwv at the proper fall as per code while the experimental group puts it at a greater slope than is recommended. 3 months after we dug up the pipes and cut them open. The ones with greater fall than is required by code had a significant amount of waste build up whereas the ones at proper fall had none.
I'm getting ready to build and I want to do as much as possible on my own to save money, child support is killing me. This was a great video for what I'm planning on building.
Same here. No child support but trying to save as much money as possible.
@@richardmartin2646 Stroke?
@@Yami-Diablo sorry
The best video I have seen on plumbing. Lots of Information. Thanks man.
Thanks for watching. :)
Quarter inch rise because you start at the bottom or clean out and go up, not 1/4” fall. The vent on the shower is over pipe diameter for grade, will syphon out probably. And tough to tell in the video, but min 2” wet vent on toilets. Plus toilet is over graded. The poopoo will be sticky sticky on the pipes
I'm subbed. Keep these coming.im building a shoust or pole barn. All the help I can get I'll take
So helpful I’m building my house thank you so much!!
Thank you for sharing since I am doing something on a larger scale and u north where the lines have to be 4 feet underground to prevent freezing. This was a good start. Was wondering if I were to connect 3-4 washrooms and 2-3 sinks how many venting lines would be required. to be installed along the loop.
Excellent job describing this. Ty. Subscribed.
Question, by having the toilet drain higher than the shower drain wouldn’t the water from the toilet seep out thru the shower if there was a clogged down stream?
As per code you have to have equal going through the roof on venting as you do on the building drain, e.g. 3" out 3" through the roof. Two 2" and one 1/12" minimum. Or one 3" and every other ties in to that based on the fixture unit size.
The vent is 3 inch but I refered to it as the cleanout and yes it will be ran up and out the roof.
@@BevinsBuilds just a thought, good job 😎👍
Are you using Oatey Medium Clear PVC Cement?
How do you find it for working with 2-3" pipes?
In case you have also tried the Regular (viscosity) cement, which one do you prefer?
I am trying to decide on which one to go with for 2-4" pipes and according to their description both will work fine as Regular can be used up to 4" and Medium up to 6".
Thank you, very helpful, been looking for this info for a while.
Your welcome and thank you so much for watching. 😀
Thanks for the great ideas !
Just so you know 1/4 rise is necessary so that some water remains in drain longer to keep paper from sticking to the bottom of pipe if you use 1/2 or worst 3/4 inch the water flows out too fast and leaves the paper behind to build up.
Awesome video .. the one thing i will add (that i got from a plumber once) - is that you don't want to put excessive slope because when you do, the "liquids" tend to leave the "solids" behind. Thought i'd mention that just in case there's any truth to it :) Cheers.
It's definitely true on toilet lines. (Because they have solids and toilet paper, the greatest culprit). On the smaller line...not typically an issue.
Yes you dont want to run it on too much of a slope. Sorry I didnt learn that until after I didnthis already. But the plumber friend I have told me that being this is such a short run that the pitch ofnthe line is fine. My finished pitch ended up being roughly 3/8 for 2 ft before the 45.
Great video. 7:10 after the sewer line comes out of your house, does it have to keep going downhill, so the sewage flows in the right direction?
Thanks man.. useful information.. thank you
Excellent help for our project. Thanks
Yw
Tanks for sharing the knowledge
🙂🙏
Not bad video I would have put my vent in between before the toilet. In Philadelphia you are aloud 1 fixture past the vent
Great video, thank you!
I did 18" between the centre line of my toilet and the side of my vanity, and it makes it so much when cleaning.
Verrrry helpful!!!!!! and understanding..... great 👍
I want to add I state a few things wrong in this video. The first is any pipe that has solid waste shoukd never have a pitch greater than 1/4 per foot and the second is that the pipe I referred to as the cleanout will actually be the vent. :)
This is the video showing what you should not do. The slope into main drain from the shower create a S-trap which violate a plumbing code. You should put them on level. Now you need to dig the slab to make it correct.
Wrong, do not use this layout.
can you put the clean up and the vent line outside the slab if you set up the shower and toilet both against the wall ?? TIA
3/4" of an inch per foot could cause solids to separate from the water and cause blockages. 1/4" is the sweet spot to keep solids moving.
if the main out horizontal pipes are to be sloped at a slight angle, then wouldn't the vertical connecting pipes be also a little slanted and not perpendicular to the ground? what is the technique to install vertical pipes perpendicular to the ground and yet the connecting horizontal pipes be sloped?
i do assume here that vertical pipe bonding with horizontal pipe are properly angled at 90 degree to avoid leakage.
Have you ever found an answer to this question? I’ve been wondering the exact same thing and I can not find anything on the internet that addresses this.
@@conw5144 No i didn't find the solution yet. I really wonder how they solve this problem. If you do find any guides or video about it, do share with me.
@@halalmeatshophk I definitely will
@@halalmeatshophk Apparently, the pitch on horizontal drain pipes is not enough to really affect the adjoining vertical pipes. Plus there is a small amount of wiggle room when a pvc pipe is inserted into a hub on a connecting piece. This was told to me by a licensed builder who also has had experience in plumbing. Hope this helps!
How's it going boss Now I'm not a licensed plumber but I did a restroom for a client of mine and it turns out his brother-in-law was a master plumber the only thing I got wrong was according to him The 90 from the toilet he wanted me to put a long sweep 90 instead of a short 90 That's all I would change but otherwise it looks good!
Awesome video very informative.
This brings back memories! Trust me...in the dead of winter when you’re in the middle of building or a live stream (pun intended!), you’ll be wishing you had a toilet! LOL Are you going to put a sink out there at so you can clean parts and things?
Lol, yes a winter stream would not be a good thing. I would like to put a full bath in this and a parts cleaning area as well. Thats all going to depend on when and if I am ever able to get a septic field installed. Although from what I have been looking into I dont think it will be to bad at all to do. As they have some smaller holding tank options being this isnt a residence.
Fix water pipe copper broken
Thanks, now if only I could find a video on how to finish the vent
Ina ground up project, what determines if this rough plumbing goes under/within slab or on top of slab?
On your bottom treated grade board did you use a 2x10?
Where can I find the $182, 1,000 gallon holding tank?
Can tell a lot of DIY plumbers in here think they know what there talking about 😂 looks good man should work out nice just try to avoid a flat vent. Hard to explain over a TH-cam comment but you can find it on the internet
Thanks, I actually was in a hurry when I did the video because the concrete was on its way. So I know I didnt describe everything as good as I should have.
Thanks very much bro, maybe one day my U tube channel gonna boom
One vent at the beginning? I thought they all had to be vented? Thanks
Vents should be within 5' of fixture, the stack can be used if close enough
Nice video! Easy to understand and to watch. Plumbing can be difficult at best for some people tackle. Other than a couple of code violations It should work. Might have a bit of a problem holding trap seals with the changes in height from the trunk line. Hope it all works for you. By the way 3” was a good choice if the septic doesn’t allow for a 4” inlet.
Here in Florida you need a wet vent for your toilet and It cannot be more than 5 feet away from it. please correct me If I'm wrong
I have no idea on rules for Florida
Thanks for the vid. Do yu hav any on setting the shower, toilet n sink all in line against the wall?
Not as of this time no.
Great video
Thank you helped a lot!!!!
If you use over 1/4 per foot rise the water will flow quicker than the solids. So don't overkill the rise.
I believe it's rise because excavation typically starts at the lowest point so you would be rising to the finish
The toilet is missing a vent. The shower venting will not work, you broke the plane. If the the 2 inch wye fitting was flat and not on a slant it would work. you do not need a 3 inch cleanout inside of a small cabin or house. The toilet is considered a cleanout since you can remove it. The overall look was good and layout looked straight. 12 1/2 inches from from framing to toilet center is perfect since most people forget about drywall when they say 12".
I believe the code states that vents must connect to a horizontal drain at a minimum 45° angle. Meaning you could not use a tee or a wye to connect a vent to a drain if all pipe connections are coplanar (flat). I think his layout looks good, but if the 2 inch wye were flat, it would be… not good.
is vent up to the code?
Your drain and vent going out need to equal the same area per code, minimum drain slope is 1/8" which needs to be engineered. You shouldn't use anymore than 1/4" because your liquid will flow past your solids. That way it will take it all down and not leave solids in your drain line.
I think it might’ve been better to use a long turn 90 on that clean out
Hey sir , where did you find your holding tank , can’t seem to find any for that price
That price was 4 years ago and it was a scratch dent. With inflation not gonna find it that cheap now anywhere.
Where do you get the 1000 gallon holding tank for $182.00 ? The price has changed some but where did you find it?
It is funny I actually just responded to this on another thread. The thousand gallon tank number one I actually missed spoke it was 750 gallons but number to the price tag on that now is considerably higher. This was listed at my local Menards for $182 at the time of purchase and I only paid $182 but it's because they had it mismarked they actually corrected the price the day that I purchased it and now I believe they are between five and six hundred dollars.
@@BevinsBuilds ok i see ,well thank you so much for replying i do appreciate it greatly,ill have to look for your other channel i like to watxh your videos when i get a chance,again thank you keep up the good work!!!
You can use 90-degree long sweeps
Thank you!! Great explanation
Thanks
supply lines?
Where did u find a 1000 gallon holding take for 180$
Menards scratch and dent but your not gonna find one that price now.
Enjoyeyed your video. But one thing wrong. The 1/4” rise is so that the water won’t run off and leave the waste. You always need to stay with the 1/4” rise.
What about a composting facility? It is quite a walk to your home from my vantage point of view. You know, once you start building even basic needs become 2nd place😄. Will you have a sink? Small kitchen counter? You know for coffee, washing hands or bricks. I would have a small cooler for refreshments. It promises to be quite cozy in the winter.
Its far but not to terribly far away. From the house im 164 ft :) and yes in the winter I am sure I will desperately want a bathroom lol. I do want a small full bathroom at some point complete with a shower but that will probably be a project that will wait until next year. But the ultimate plan when I can do it is with the shower it will be used as a washing station for lego and then I would also have a toilet and small sink as well. Possibly even a small wet bar/kitchen as well. Just big enough for snacks and maybe some plates and glasses. My priority this year is to get it wired and insulated so I can get back to building lego. Which is going to be a rather large task itself being I will be doing it all solo for the most part.
Very well planned,@@BevinsBuilds . It does make sense to have all the connections ready. Regarding your electrical. You still have to connect it to your house right. Or are you connecting to the city's line? Thank you.
Also, how I wish I could volunteer and help. You might get some help from local AFOLs. But it also can take away of your personal experience. At any rate, keep up the amazing job!
@@makitagut2472 Thanks Makita I appreciate it. If you lived locally I would invite you over :) as for the electrical. I really wanted to have a new service installed but wow the price for new service is pretty expensive. The electrical wasnt to bad (1700) but the natural gas line was outrageous (4200) i still dont understand why it would be such a huge coat difference. As if anything the electrical should have been the most expensive in my opinion.
Thank you,@@BevinsBuilds! What?! Who would have thought there was such a difference in price. I agree. I would have thought that electrical power is much more expensive. Huge surprise there 😮
$182 holding tank of 1,000 gallon. Where did you buy it?
Scratch and dent at menards. This was 3 years ago though. Prices on everything have skyrocketed
I would totally put in a toilet. When I am building, I always keep going until I absolutely have to go. I also recommend putting in a sink and counter so you have space to wash Lego or have a coffee maker and stuff.
I totally agree but its more of a cost issue than anything. As I dont live in the city for me to have a restroom I have to install a septic tank and field. If the tank for my house was closer I could tie into it but its so far away I wouldnt have the correct flow for my drain lines for it to work. But at some point I will have a bathroom in it, just not sure when. :)
Where can I get a 1000 gal. Tank for less than 200 ? Thanks
Its was a diacounted item at menards, sadly they are no longer that price.
Thank you.
Nice info
combo fitting or wye wouldn't be better for venting this full bath?
The actual vent when completed will be where the 3 inch cleanout it located.
The vent is not off the main, it's off the branch so that means the toilet is not vented. But it's just a poll barn
The vent is off the main its what I refer to as the cleanout
@@BevinsBuilds I don't think the shower trap is vented either - that 2" wye would have to be horizontal (with 1/4 in/ft slope) to qualify as a "horizontal wet vent" according to UPC, at least. It will probably work, but it's not code.
Do you have to be a qualified plumber to do your own rough in plumbing in Georgia usa?
I dont live in Georgia so I cant honestly say. But as a home owner you are allowed to pull a permit and do whatever work to your house you want without being licensed. As for general repairs you dont need a permit either.
@@BevinsBuilds great! Thank you so much
Your welcome. 😀
Thanks for the information. It was really helpful. Where do you live? I live in Texas.
Your welcome thanks for watching. I live in michigan.
Do you have a link to the holding tank?
I got lucky with a scratch and dent, but not even that prices for them over the last year have climbed considerably sadly. But all building supplies have.
The way you have the toilet going up from main line created an strap or improper venting way prohibited
The main line actually continues past and the 3 inch line will eventually be made into the vent. In the video I just placed a cleanout fitting on it.
Thanks
If you install a sand/cement shower or a Schluter shower there is an additional curb you may want. Their dimensions are larger than an acrylic shower base. That would likely be added onto the 30” dimension of the shower. And that would mean your toilet would need to be moved over another 4” or so.
Toilet should be 12"" to center of pipe, not edge
13 inch from the unfinished wall to center...
Plotting piping and prepping pole barn plumbing. Say that fast.. 😂
Lol
None of that plumbing would be legal in the state of Massachusetts. There's no vent for the toilet. The vent for the shower is choked off by the 45 degree bend. The only legitimate vent in that system is the two in line for the lav. In my state you would also need a full three inch Stack vent, which is not present.
Thats a far walk when you gotta go 😂
The problem with going to steep over 1/4 inch per foot is the water will gush out and leave the waste, it needs to float.
Yes but on a pipe only 2ft long its not a concern.
Wow your on city sewer way out in the country? I'd put in a small bathroom if I were you
No i wish I was on sewer. I will have to install a small septic field if I decide to put the plumbing to use. But its cheaper and easier to do the rough plumbing now as opposed to later is why I did it anyway. :)
@@BevinsBuilds ok
instant sub
1/4 inch Is good no need for over kill or above and beyond
THANK YOU
You could have ran the drain then use a Wisconsin for vent and catch your shower
How many , " I's " are you ?