I've got a 2n and it has some blowby that is noticeable out of the fill cap when I shut it off. I don't worry too much about it. I know these old engines have some loose tolerances and it doesn't seem to burn oil very fast so I will just use it and I can rebuild it when it needs it
Bill don’t worry about the blow by if the engine runs good and strong it’s completely fine some motors seems to have a little more than others no big deal
Good day Bill nothing like a plow day with equipment just worked on. For the lift arm if I can remember right there are shims in side the cover under the seat that wear out and there is a bit of play back and forth with the lift lever. As you put the nut on it pulls the shaft out off the gear in play does not let the 3point hitch rise. You got this keep up the fun vids .....
You have a key stock at your handle where you lift it up and down looks like the key stock is either broke or missing it is on the same part that you took off
Hey Bill, I've experienced if the hood or cowling is off the machine, It can run hotter than normal. Sometimes the fan and air flow are controlled like a manifold system. May not be the case here, worth a try. The tractor looks and runs great, nice work. Thanks for the video.
If you have a book for this tractor look this stuff up, like how to adjust the lift also Steiner has videos of how to adjust the lift as do others on TH-cam. The blow by is something you will have to live with, when the head and pan were off a set of bearings and rings with a cylinder hone would have been the way to go and all that is very reasonable. Also in your area there has to be tractor salvage yards to get a different head for this tractor, that is the first place I look for used parts, places like Steiner are good places but a place of last resort. I am sure you have other tractor friends, talk with them in your area you might be surprised at the help and information you can get from joining a tractor club.
they make a fan blade that has extra blades pulls more air through the radiator makes it run cooler. you also need to bleed the air out of your hydraulics at the hydraulic pump
Your going to have to flip over the hydraulic top section and do some adjusting to the linkages and while your in there you might want to replace the cam follower pin
Hi Bill What direction is the fan running? Is the fan pulling air through the rad or do you have it pushing air through the rad? With the hood on and the fan pulling air through the rad will allow better airflow across the engine for better cooling. Reversing the fan to push the air is for field conditions with extreme dust.
what weight oil you have in the rear end??? manual states 90weight ... put thinner Hydro oil in the trans .. its not blow by .. its just venting the crankcase kinda like a PVC valve on a car
It could be because you don't have the hood on the air is not flowing around right if not you might have to have the bought hot bath to clean out the block
For what I know with my tractors now I run Farmall’s and ji case tractors and depending on the load like plowing with my 311 case I run around 200 to 212 and my h Farmall depending on weather I’m using just the loader or the belts/pto or any type of draw bar work I can run from 185 to 210 just some insight
You might try using a cooler thermostat. For example, if you've got a 195⁰ thermostat in it now, go down to a 180 or 185 thermostat. I've had to do that before in older equipment. Especially equipment that operates slowly or stationary.
Around 200F for the coolant temp seems about right. Permatex Ultra Copper gasket maker is good to a max temp of 700F (intermittent). Should work fine on the exhaust. There's also this stuff called muffler cement from Yale Automotive that works great to seal up the exhaust.
The sheet metal has nothing to do with air flow ck the high speed air on carb it adjust out to rich in to lean, the valve on the lift maybe sticking if poor quality hyd oil has been used such as 303, slide valve is easy to ck by eye control valve is next to it needs 1/2inch fine thread bolt to take apart it has close tolerance easy to seize
Great work figuring out this old tractor.
I've got a 2n and it has some blowby that is noticeable out of the fill cap when I shut it off. I don't worry too much about it. I know these old engines have some loose tolerances and it doesn't seem to burn oil very fast so I will just use it and I can rebuild it when it needs it
*Nice to see she is moving again!*
Bill don’t worry about the blow by if the engine runs good and strong it’s completely fine some motors seems to have a little more than others no big deal
Keep up the great videos bill love watching im a big fan im not that far from u just in Michigan have great day and even better tomorrow
With that style of plow you work inside out bill.it is made to be used that way so you don't waste all the time you are.
Good day Bill nothing like a plow day with equipment just worked on.
For the lift arm if I can remember right there are shims in side the cover under the seat that wear out and there is a bit of play back and forth with the lift lever. As you put the nut on it pulls the shaft out off the gear in play does not let the 3point hitch rise.
You got this keep up the fun vids .....
Thanks for the info
You have a key stock at your handle where you lift it up and down looks like the key stock is either broke or missing it is on the same part that you took off
I work with one Ford 800 in 70's and love it . but the muffler was under the step . less noise .
Hey Bill, I've experienced if the hood or cowling is off the machine, It can run hotter than normal. Sometimes the fan and air flow are controlled like a manifold system. May not be the case here, worth a try. The tractor looks and runs great, nice work. Thanks for the video.
Thanks for the tip. next thing going on.
the rear end OIL is also your Hydro oil
If you have a book for this tractor look this stuff up, like how to adjust the lift also Steiner has videos of how to adjust the lift as do others on TH-cam.
The blow by is something you will have to live with, when the head and pan were off a set of bearings and rings with a cylinder hone would have been the way to go and all that is very reasonable. Also in your area there has to be tractor salvage yards to get a different head for this tractor, that is the first place I look for used parts, places like Steiner are good places but a place of last resort. I am sure you have other tractor friends, talk with them in your area you might be surprised at the help and information you can get from joining a tractor club.
Are you using a good lead substitute? Those rings like the lead too.
they make a fan blade that has extra blades pulls more air through the radiator makes it run cooler. you also need to bleed the air out of your hydraulics at the hydraulic pump
You got that dialed in bill she runs like a Swedish clock
Bill, that nut only adjusts the friction disc for the lever and that’s all it does
yeah. figured that out lol
Your going to have to flip over the hydraulic top section and do some adjusting to the linkages and while your in there you might want to replace the cam follower pin
Great video budd.
I wouldn’t worry about the blow by. Probably was like that when it was new. Old stuff doesn’t have as much ring tension. It’s running great
The blow by is normal on theses older tractors
We used to run green antifreeze all of our motors would get hot we switched over to Orange and now they all run in the green
You was saying you heard a noise in that area so maybe thats why it was making noise!
Hi Bill What direction is the fan running? Is the fan pulling air through the rad or do you have it pushing air through the rad? With the hood on and the fan pulling air through the rad will allow better airflow across the engine for better cooling. Reversing the fan to push the air is for field conditions with extreme dust.
it’s a pull fan
I think you need to get the hood back on.it might have a part of getting hot do to the hood might help direct the airflow.
what weight oil you have in the rear end??? manual states 90weight ... put thinner Hydro oil in the trans .. its not blow by .. its just venting the crankcase kinda like a PVC valve on a car
Looks like your going to need to remove the top cover and readjust the linkage underneath the cover going to the lift cylinder
think the cam pin is wore in to far.
It could be because you don't have the hood on the air is not flowing around right if not you might have to have the bought hot bath to clean out the block
I rerouted the muffler got it away from the motor on my Ford tractor
I see your draft links are on backwards
For what I know with my tractors now I run Farmall’s and ji case tractors and depending on the load like plowing with my 311 case I run around 200 to 212 and my h Farmall depending on weather I’m using just the loader or the belts/pto or any type of draw bar work I can run from 185 to 210 just some insight
You might try using a cooler thermostat. For example, if you've got a 195⁰ thermostat in it now, go down to a 180 or 185 thermostat. I've had to do that before in older equipment. Especially equipment that operates slowly or stationary.
Clean your hydro filter on the low side, maybe the high side, it’s the long screen in the line. I can’t remember what side
There is no hydro filter on older Ford tractors
When my 800 doesn't lift .I take an Allen wrench and bleed the hydraulics pump. There is a 5/16 screw on top of pump Crack it sligthly to bleed air.
I’ll have to try that.
Check the draft control.
Around 200F for the coolant temp seems about right. Permatex Ultra Copper gasket maker is good to a max temp of 700F (intermittent). Should work fine on the exhaust. There's also this stuff called muffler cement from Yale Automotive that works great to seal up the exhaust.
Now I know why it got hot.yoy need to put the 188 thermostat in the engine.that will help the heating issue.
take the Hydro pump off maybe rebuild the Hydro pump ... next step is to take the top plate off the Hydro cylinders/rear end
The sheet metal has nothing to do with air flow ck the high speed air on carb it adjust out to rich in to lean, the valve on the lift maybe sticking if poor quality hyd oil has been used such as 303, slide valve is easy to ck by eye control valve is next to it needs 1/2inch fine thread bolt to take apart it has close tolerance easy to seize
I seen smoke come off your hand when you touched the Exhaust ...Ha Ha .I'm messing with ya
I was just wondering what happened to your questions time used to have people send you questions ask Bill what happened to that I like to watch that
haven’t been getting questions very much. billqa@yahoo.com
Bill, if that is a 180degree thermostat,see if you can get a 165 degree thermostat.
Hotter is better
What ever happened with the old JD?
still in my garage. tractor show coming up soon.
if you think its running that heat put your hand on the exhaust like a idiot.. for a 800 in 80-90 degree heat its normal
Don’t be the perfectionist, you’re a lot like me…lol
Get the job done then fix all the insignificant issues. Watch some videos, you’ll learn alot