Thanks :) Well, you're in luck too because the second video in this series (making the mould from OOA tooling prepreg) will be coming out in just a few days. The final part we're filming at the moment.
Hi! thank you for such a good review! Please tell us what processing modes of the model plate you use? what kind of cutters you use. Can I get more information about 3D form processing?) thank you in advance!
Great Video as always! You have used stecraft CNC routers in other video. Why did you use the CNCEST 60x40 to make this mould? If possible could you mention some of the differences and preference when cutting carbon fiber or making mouds using different CNC routers? Thank you once again.
Hi Anthony, the StepCraft was used as part of a product demonstration. We are not suppliers of CNC routers and the market changes very rapidly so would not be best placed to advise on the best routers to use.
We are not a CAD channel as such and there are plenty of videos online about using Fusion 360. Our aim in our CAD videos is to show how CAD can be used specifically with composites so only very specific relevant methods and tools are shown.
We do plan to do a tutorial demonstrating how to make a wing section but it probably wouldn't be done using wet-layup. There is some hand work in assembling a wing (i.e. bonding the upper and lower sections together) which you might find interesting.
Easy Composites Ltd We've been trying to manufacture a large airfoil for our FSAE car with a wet layup, but we've encountered some difficulty in manufacturing. Is there any reason for not using a wet lay up? In addition. How do you achieve a smooth transition between the two parts in order to get a smooth leading edge?
OK, we'll certainly bear in mind the idea of some more advanced wet-layup projects. Prepregs certainly don't necessarily need high production volumes to be justified, it might be more apparent in the next videos in this series just how easy they can be to work with. Watch this space.
I hope Easy Composites don't mind if I add my 2p here... wire cutting a foam male tool doesn't really work because your controlled surface ('tooling surface') is the inner surface - no good for you! I am thinking over how I'm going to do something similar to you and DAC drone below. I am likely to go for a 2 piece wing skin design with a lip near the leading edge and at the trailing edge. This has a number of advantages as I see it: 1. you can use a female mould much more easily - your most important profile - the OML - is maintained by the mould; 2. you can lay-up structure on the inside face if necessary; 3. the leading edge is controlled by the tool; 4. you can decide which surface you want the joint on and; 6. you can easily fill the joint with sealant that can be cleaned up. Another interesting video +Easy Composites Ltd - thanks!
Yes it can be done that way for very short production runs or prototyping. Model board moulds would not have the same durability as a properly made composite mould.
@@easycompositestv thanks for your insanely fast reply! Just one more question please. I have the opportunity to build Alloy/steel Moulds. Would this work, or will I get problems with that?
@@Mr_Hacki Aluminium moulds are often used in industry for their accuracy, especially for larger production runs where the original cost of the billet and machining can be spread over multiple parts. You have to account for the thermal mass of the tool - alloy tools can take a lot longer to heat up than composite tools so the cure cycle needs to be adjusted to allow time for the surface of the mould to reach the desired set points.
How would you vacuum bag a two part mold such as the tooling board mold that you guys showed for the 90 degree pipe fitting. I’m interested in machining a cheap mold out of epoxy board for a prototype and it would be two parts and would need to know how to bag it so I’d get proper adhesions of the two halves. Since you can’t put the bag in between the two parts. While in the oven.
You would need to envelope bag it with enough excess material to get into the void section. Alternatively you can envelope bag it using a fabricated bag including vacuum bag tube of the right kind of size to easily go down inside the pipe.
Wow I was just about to begin to do this thank for the video. Do you know if insulation foam can work because I need to make a huge mold and accuracy is not key
You could use insulation foam to make a rough shape but to be usable in any form you would then need need to add strength to the structure, normally by 'scrimming' it with glass fibre and resin (make sure you use epoxy resin like our EL2, not polyester or vinylester because they will melt your foam) and then coating the pattern using a high-build pattern coat (such as our Pattern-Coat Primer). You could then use the S120 Board Sealer over the top of the pattern coat primer to bring it to a full gloss.
No, they’re quite different materials. PVC is much lower density, doesn’t machine as well and doesn’t have the temperature stability of epoxy board. You could still machine a pattern from PVC foam but you’d need to coat it in something to get a good finish and you could only use that pattern at ambient, or very modest, temperatures.
It's our EP700 Epoxy Tooling Board. In the description above there is a link to the project page on our website, on the project page there is a 'shopping list' down the left hand side which includes links to all the products used in the video. We always do this to make it easy to track down any products you've seen in one of our tutorials. I hope this helps.
You could comfortably take in the 10's to 20's - maybe a lot more in 'ideal conditions'. In this video, the mould was already off the plug by the time we took the bagging film off so I think it's safe to say we could keep taking moulds off with almost no damage or deterioration of the pattern.
Easy Composites Ltd where I've been working, we've started having our plugs "professionally" built even though we used to build our own. They say we should be able to make 5 or so molds off those plugs, but we've never had them survive past making the first mold. We are very unimpressed with the quality we've been receiving from them.
This one is just a fairly basic model which we bought off ebay. It's Chinese made but uses ball-screws which improve accuracy and longevity of the machine for this type of machining. Ours is branded as CNCEST and the model is a 60x40 (which refers to the bed size).
Yes, you could also use a thin layer of resin to seal the board if you don’t want to use a specific board sealer (like S120). Resin will build a bit thicker and therefore need a bit more flatting to restore a flat, accurate surface. A good choice would be our XCR Epoxy Coating Resin - it goes on thin, cures quickly to a high gloss, and is highly polishable. The working temperature of the XCR is lower than the board sealer but it’s still fine for use up to 80C.
At ambient temperature your accuracy will be as good as the tolerance of your CNC router. In the case of this basic desktop machine you're well within a fraction of a millimetre accuracy from the CAD design to the machined pattern. If the pattern is then used to take a mould from at room temperature then the accuracy of the mould will match the accuracy of the pattern. If you're taking your mould off at elevated temperature (for example a prepreg mould) then you will have to consider the CTE of the epoxy tooling board which will expand slightly at elevated temperature. For this reason, moulds (particularly prepreg ones) are made at the lowest end of their cure temperatures.
Hey guys, I read in the comments that you are planning to do a tutorial on making a wing section. The comment was posted a year back, so just wanted to know when would the video be out. If you have already made the video, could you please share the link here.
Hi Sir - I want to know if ( EP 700 ) can used in injection plastic machine ? and Do you have more than (130 degree temperature )? and how many times can i used EP700 as mold in machine injection ?
No, the EP700 Epoxy Tooling Board would not be suitable for injection moulding tools for many reasons I'm afraid, the main one being that the board would like the thermal mass needed to cool the thermoplastic but there would also be issues around the resilience of the tool, the release the of the thermoplastic from an epoxy tool and the service temperature of the tool.
Well, that would depend on what you mean by 'high density'. The sealer would be find on any type of polyurethane or epoxy board from about 250kgs/m3 density upwards. Anything less and you'd need some sort of scrim first to add strength and provide a more appropriate surface. You can also use the sealer on other porous substrates like MDF or wood.
Mmmm, if it's out High Density PU Foam then it would be 90kg/m3 which is too low density to just go direct with the S120 board sealer. Also, although the sealer does build a microscopic layer on the mould (sufficient for higher density model boards and tooling boards) you'd need something more heavy-duty to smooth out the texture of the foam - such as our Pattern Coat Primer.
Hi Lee, yes, there are ways to do this. In fact, there is a lot of interest in this subject at the moment so we are looking into some of the best methods and processes to demonstrate and then we hope to make a tutorial of this process in the future.
Can carbon fiber give strength to a plastic moulded... I am trying to make a steering wheel of my old car. I have made a plastic mould from abd and will do stick carbon fibre over it. I wanted to know weather it will break when vertical forces are applied.
Adding an outer skin of carbon fibre to an existing component will always add strength to it, particularly if the carbon laminate is able to bond well to the substrate. I'm not familiar with ABD plastic but I'm guessing you might mean ABS? If you do mean ABS then this can be quite a tricky plastic for epoxy to bond to. Often, ABS is 'flame treated' (i.e. scorched with a blow torch) to oxidise the surface and make it bond-able for epoxy resin. I know for sure what level of adhesion you'll get I would suggest preparing the surface of the wheel (probably by abrading and then flame treating it) and then do a peel-test with a small sample patch. If the patch bonds well and takes a lot of force to remove then you can be confident that the carbon fibre/epoxy has bonded well. In terms of the total amount of strength that you add, that would depend on the thickness of the carbon fibre 'skin' - you could add multiple layers if you need more strength.
Yes, it is ABS,sorry it was my typing mistake. Can u give me an idea about flame treatment. Then Sir Can u suggest me an alternative for ABS any other material of which i can make mould.
Well, you're in luck! We have a quick video tutorial already in the pipeline showing how to make a tubular elbow. There's a bit of work to do on it yet but it should be ready in a week or two.
thats awsome,cant wait to see.can understand there is a bit of work,and never fully understood who exactly how this is done. your videos are very inspirational and are so well done,they have helped med alot on understanding and how things are done the proper way,
How to strength the places where two moulds join together, for example, the 90 degree rotating pipe, if you lay fabric on each mould, when you join them together, the only connected is the resin instead of fabric, then how to strengen them?
You can do that in the manufacturing process, or even laminate carbon tape or fabric over the join to make it stronger afterwards. A bit of careful thought during the planning phase can mean you do the overlapping as the part is made, making things simpler and quicker overall.
It's our EP700 Epoxy Tooling Board. If you click the link in the description (above) it will take you to the 'project page' on our website which includes links to all the products used in the video.
It is similar in consistency to very hard wood/solid plastic so it would take a very long time by hand. Machine/cnc is the only practical way in most cases.
It's epoxy tooling board. There's a link in the description (above) which takes you to a project page which has links to all of the products used in this video.
Hi Lee, that *really* depends on where you go to get the machining done. Generally speaking you're paying for the time on the machine, how much that time costs tends to depend on how busy the machine shop is; if they have little or no spare capacity then you'll pay more for time on the machine. There are some online places where you can upload a CAD file, choose your material, and get an instant price; these would be a good place to start. For a really small job, like the pattern we machined in this video, it could even work out cheaper to buy a small desktop CNC machine. The one we used in this video was around £600.
Hi Nathaniel, we would not recommend shellac as its properties are inferior to the S120, especially in terms of sealing ability and temperature resistance.
Yes, we can ship to Egypt although we are generally unable to send anything classed as 'dangerous goods' (so solvents, resins, release agents etc.) to Egypt in small quantities. For large industrial orders we are able to organise transport of all materials but this would generally be for large palletised orders.
No, definitely not. The epoxy tooling board is *made from* epoxy. In this video we're using our EB700 Epoxy Tooling Board. We don't use polyurethane tooling board because polyurethane inhibits the cure of epoxy prepregs. Also, for this type of work you really need to talking of tooling board or block rather than 'foam' which would generally imply a much lower density material than we're using here.
The board is our Epoxy Tooling Block which you can find here: www.easycomposites.co.uk/#!/patterns-moulds-and-tooling/tooling-and-modelling-board/EP700-High-Temperature-Epoxy-Tooling-Board.html
As long as the surface is sealed to stop any issues of porosity, then for some applications it may be possible to 3D print a mould. However the material needs to be suitable for curing with pre-preg if you follow that route.
@@easycompositestv Thanks for your reply. I'm considering to print my mold, but I prefer to hear from the real experts here's my idea, correct me if I'm wrong. The mold can be made from ABS and smoothed with acetone, then treated with wax for a non-stick surface. Using the air dry vacuum bag methodology, the mold can have optimized drainage (via any CAD software) for a better resin flow, the only disadvantage could be a warped mold due to the internal combustion while curing the epoxy resin. How accurate is this idea? Be honest, It's rubbish!?
Provided it was not significantly damaged when releasing the mould, then there is no reason why you can't reuse the pattern. You would need to repair any damage and then re-apply release agents before using the pattern to make another mould.
Have a Google around for "CNC maching UK" or something along those lines; there are a number of CNC places. You might also want to think about the size of your piece and the quotes you're getting for the machining because for small parts (like the one in this video) especially if you have a few projects to do, you might find you can buy a small desktop CNC for not much more money than the machining would cost.
From our website. In this video we're using our EP700 Epoxy Tooling Board: www.easycomposites.co.uk/#!/patterns-moulds-and-tooling/tooling-and-modelling-board/EP700-High-Temperature-Epoxy-Tooling-Board.html
It's made from epoxy resin (hence the name 'epoxy tooling board'). I can't imagine that you could make it any less expensively than you could buy it for and if you buy the proper board you know it will have the right density, stability and machining properties.
It's a CNC-EST, Chinese-made and purchased on eBay; I'm afraid we don't know a great deal more about it. There are certainly better (and more expensive) machines around but this one has worked very well and been more than up to anything we've thrown at it so far.
If you're referring to the green block material that we CNC machine, that's our EB700 Epoxy Tooling Board, you can find it here on our website: www.easycomposites.co.uk/#!/patterns-moulds-and-tooling/tooling-and-modelling-board/EP700-High-Temperature-Epoxy-Tooling-Board.html
The board being machined is Epoxy Tooling Board which you can find here: www.easycomposites.co.uk/#!/patterns-moulds-and-tooling/tooling-and-modelling-board/EP700-High-Temperature-Epoxy-Tooling-Board.html
These videos and products are so good that anyone who stumbles on these videos is going to want to fabricate something! Great job.
Just in love with your videos. please upload a tutorial on making full car body moulds and after that finishing with fibreglass.
Make more videos! Love watching the process.
Thanks :) Well, you're in luck too because the second video in this series (making the mould from OOA tooling prepreg) will be coming out in just a few days. The final part we're filming at the moment.
Paul you are a great teacher, and an even better presenter! Thank you
Thanks for the awesome feedback Adrian :)
Great tutorial as always!!, are you going to make a video about the mould of a 90 degrees tube?
guys. excellent, rare tutorials. enough said.
Thanks Constantinos, appreciated.
Once again you guys hit it out of the park! Well done,
i will be using this new tech in the future.
Hi! thank you for such a good review! Please tell us what processing modes of the model plate you use? what kind of cutters you use. Can I get more information about 3D form processing?) thank you in advance!
Awesome video! Can one use cnc milling for making negative moulds as well?
Yes you can, although traditional model boards would only be typically used for prototype or short production run moulds due to long term durability.
Great Video as always! You have used stecraft CNC routers in other video. Why did you use the CNCEST 60x40 to make this mould? If possible could you mention some of the differences and preference when cutting carbon fiber or making mouds using different CNC routers? Thank you once again.
Hi Anthony, the StepCraft was used as part of a product demonstration. We are not suppliers of CNC routers and the market changes very rapidly so would not be best placed to advise on the best routers to use.
Finally! I have been waiting for this video! Thanks, happy halloween! 👍😉
nice technic!!! i love it ! please whats the material of mold on CNC
The green board is our EB700 Epoxy Tooling Board: www.easycomposites.co.uk/eb700-high-temperature-epoxy-tooling-board
Thanks for sharing all this information , can u do please some video with fusion 360 to make part thanks
We are not a CAD channel as such and there are plenty of videos online about using Fusion 360. Our aim in our CAD videos is to show how CAD can be used specifically with composites so only very specific relevant methods and tools are shown.
Question: can you glue two pieces of machined model board together? I have a very small CNC machine and I need a pretty large pattern
Yes you can. There are specific model board adhesive for epoxy tooling block.
What is model of CNC machine?
How did you lift accurate measurements for the radii on this component? Thank you.
how????
great video
I'd like to see how you guys manufacture airfoils with a wet layup.
We do plan to do a tutorial demonstrating how to make a wing section but it probably wouldn't be done using wet-layup. There is some hand work in assembling a wing (i.e. bonding the upper and lower sections together) which you might find interesting.
Easy Composites Ltd We've been trying to manufacture a large airfoil for our FSAE car with a wet layup, but we've encountered some difficulty in manufacturing. Is there any reason for not using a wet lay up? In addition. How do you achieve a smooth transition between the two parts in order to get a smooth leading edge?
OK, we'll certainly bear in mind the idea of some more advanced wet-layup projects. Prepregs certainly don't necessarily need high production volumes to be justified, it might be more apparent in the next videos in this series just how easy they can be to work with. Watch this space.
I hope Easy Composites don't mind if I add my 2p here... wire cutting a foam male tool doesn't really work because your controlled surface ('tooling surface') is the inner surface - no good for you! I am thinking over how I'm going to do something similar to you and DAC drone below. I am likely to go for a 2 piece wing skin design with a lip near the leading edge and at the trailing edge. This has a number of advantages as I see it: 1. you can use a female mould much more easily - your most important profile - the OML - is maintained by the mould; 2. you can lay-up structure on the inside face if necessary; 3. the leading edge is controlled by the tool; 4. you can decide which surface you want the joint on and; 6. you can easily fill the joint with sealant that can be cleaned up.
Another interesting video +Easy Composites Ltd - thanks!
Thank you for this interesting Video. But is it possible to produce a negativ mould to produce a carbon part directly in it? Thanks for your answer!
Yes it can be done that way for very short production runs or prototyping. Model board moulds would not have the same durability as a properly made composite mould.
@@easycompositestv thanks for your insanely fast reply! Just one more question please. I have the opportunity to build Alloy/steel Moulds. Would this work, or will I get problems with that?
@@Mr_Hacki Aluminium moulds are often used in industry for their accuracy, especially for larger production runs where the original cost of the billet and machining can be spread over multiple parts. You have to account for the thermal mass of the tool - alloy tools can take a lot longer to heat up than composite tools so the cure cycle needs to be adjusted to allow time for the surface of the mould to reach the desired set points.
that epoxy tooling board looks like a great product, do you have any videos of using the 90 degree pipe mold in the video?
We'll be doing that video very soon, maybe over the Christmas break - so hopefully we can upload it early in the New Year.
awesome thanks for the reply I will keep an eye out.
What should I use to seal styrofoam or wood?
How would you vacuum bag a two part mold such as the tooling board mold that you guys showed for the 90 degree pipe fitting. I’m interested in machining a cheap mold out of epoxy board for a prototype and it would be two parts and would need to know how to bag it so I’d get proper adhesions of the two halves. Since you can’t put the bag in between the two parts. While in the oven.
You would need to envelope bag it with enough excess material to get into the void section. Alternatively you can envelope bag it using a fabricated bag including vacuum bag tube of the right kind of size to easily go down inside the pipe.
Wow I was just about to begin to do this thank for the video. Do you know if insulation foam can work because I need to make a huge mold and accuracy is not key
You could use insulation foam to make a rough shape but to be usable in any form you would then need need to add strength to the structure, normally by 'scrimming' it with glass fibre and resin (make sure you use epoxy resin like our EL2, not polyester or vinylester because they will melt your foam) and then coating the pattern using a high-build pattern coat (such as our Pattern-Coat Primer). You could then use the S120 Board Sealer over the top of the pattern coat primer to bring it to a full gloss.
Easy Composites Ltd thank you 🙏
Increible, gracias por compartir tus conocimientos!
De nada, gracias por mirar y me alegra que lo hayas disfrutado.
Finally! I love your videos..
would 3D printing (FDM) be an option? instead of milling
Yes, they have videos on that now
Clear and Nice presentation thanks for sharing.
Is the epoxy tooling board the same as PVC foam??? If not can I use PVC foam for in a similar application ?
No, they’re quite different materials. PVC is much lower density, doesn’t machine as well and doesn’t have the temperature stability of epoxy board. You could still machine a pattern from PVC foam but you’d need to coat it in something to get a good finish and you could only use that pattern at ambient, or very modest, temperatures.
@@easycompositestv thanks for this information
That pipe-mold in the beginning, How do you make a part with that?! Would love to see that! Thank you.
One of our future videos will feature that mould being used to make a part.
The block worked in CNC machine of wich material is done? thanks
We used a basic low cost machine called a CNCest
Which bit are you used ?Is it ball nose or taper ball nose endmill.
Just a flat base flute.
What material is the green one used in this video?
It's our EP700 Epoxy Tooling Board. In the description above there is a link to the project page on our website, on the project page there is a 'shopping list' down the left hand side which includes links to all the products used in the video. We always do this to make it easy to track down any products you've seen in one of our tutorials. I hope this helps.
Assuming ideal treatment and conditions, how many molds would you expect to get off of that plug?
You could comfortably take in the 10's to 20's - maybe a lot more in 'ideal conditions'. In this video, the mould was already off the plug by the time we took the bagging film off so I think it's safe to say we could keep taking moulds off with almost no damage or deterioration of the pattern.
Easy Composites Ltd where I've been working, we've started having our plugs "professionally" built even though we used to build our own. They say we should be able to make 5 or so molds off those plugs, but we've never had them survive past making the first mold. We are very unimpressed with the quality we've been receiving from them.
Hi, great videos 👍 what make/model cnc router is that and where can you get one?
This one is just a fairly basic model which we bought off ebay. It's Chinese made but uses ball-screws which improve accuracy and longevity of the machine for this type of machining. Ours is branded as CNCEST and the model is a 60x40 (which refers to the bed size).
Is there an alternative to sealing the tooling board? Can I use resin?
Yes, you could also use a thin layer of resin to seal the board if you don’t want to use a specific board sealer (like S120). Resin will build a bit thicker and therefore need a bit more flatting to restore a flat, accurate surface. A good choice would be our XCR Epoxy Coating Resin - it goes on thin, cures quickly to a high gloss, and is highly polishable. The working temperature of the XCR is lower than the board sealer but it’s still fine for use up to 80C.
How did you map the dimentions of the original casing in order for the cnc to be able to produce the mould? thanks
The original shape was drawn in CAD from scratch.
How accurate are these methods and up to how small details/tolerances can you work with these moulds?
At ambient temperature your accuracy will be as good as the tolerance of your CNC router. In the case of this basic desktop machine you're well within a fraction of a millimetre accuracy from the CAD design to the machined pattern. If the pattern is then used to take a mould from at room temperature then the accuracy of the mould will match the accuracy of the pattern. If you're taking your mould off at elevated temperature (for example a prepreg mould) then you will have to consider the CTE of the epoxy tooling board which will expand slightly at elevated temperature. For this reason, moulds (particularly prepreg ones) are made at the lowest end of their cure temperatures.
Hey guys, I read in the comments that you are planning to do a tutorial on making a wing section. The comment was posted a year back, so just wanted to know when would the video be out. If you have already made the video, could you please share the link here.
It is in the pipeline. We have so many video ideas yet not enough time to do them all as quickly as we would like!
So once that s120 finish wears off from use, can more coating's of it be applied so the mold can be reused again and again?
Yes you can restore the finish with fresh applications of the S120 Board Sealer.
would it be possible to use the mould for vacuumforming of a polycarbonate plate of 4mm? I only need one or two prototypes
It is not what it is designed for. Depends on the temperature and how long it takes to cool as to if it will damage the board.
Does carbon fiber melt ?
Which material have you used in this model?
EP700 Epoxy Tooling Board
@@easycompositestv thanks
hi..do you sell the respirator your using in this vid?
It is not one we sell. It is made by 3M.
@@easycompositestv what is the model name of the 3m respirator?
Sure, it’s the 3M 4000 series; you reuse for 1month then dispose. It’s a good system.
@@easycompositestv thanks...love your work!
you get a cleaner surface if you reduce the advance step
Hi Sir - I want to know if ( EP 700 ) can used in injection plastic machine ? and Do you have more than (130 degree temperature )? and how many times can i used EP700 as mold in machine injection ?
No, the EP700 Epoxy Tooling Board would not be suitable for injection moulding tools for many reasons I'm afraid, the main one being that the board would like the thermal mass needed to cool the thermoplastic but there would also be issues around the resilience of the tool, the release the of the thermoplastic from an epoxy tool and the service temperature of the tool.
Can I use the sealer on just about any high density board? I have a foam plug I would like to try that sealer with for wet layup.
Well, that would depend on what you mean by 'high density'. The sealer would be find on any type of polyurethane or epoxy board from about 250kgs/m3 density upwards. Anything less and you'd need some sort of scrim first to add strength and provide a more appropriate surface. You can also use the sealer on other porous substrates like MDF or wood.
Should have been more specific. It is polyurethane foam. Thanks for the information
Mmmm, if it's out High Density PU Foam then it would be 90kg/m3 which is too low density to just go direct with the S120 board sealer. Also, although the sealer does build a microscopic layer on the mould (sufficient for higher density model boards and tooling boards) you'd need something more heavy-duty to smooth out the texture of the foam - such as our Pattern Coat Primer.
Can patterns be made from 3D printed PLA or ABS plastic with post surface treatment?
Hi Lee, yes, there are ways to do this. In fact, there is a lot of interest in this subject at the moment so we are looking into some of the best methods and processes to demonstrate and then we hope to make a tutorial of this process in the future.
What's the brand of the desktop CNC machine and what's the maximum size mold it can handle?
It's a CNCEST 60/40.
Beautiful
Can carbon fiber give strength to a plastic moulded...
I am trying to make a steering wheel of my old car. I have made a plastic mould from abd and will do stick carbon fibre over it. I wanted to know weather it will break when vertical forces are applied.
Adding an outer skin of carbon fibre to an existing component will always add strength to it, particularly if the carbon laminate is able to bond well to the substrate. I'm not familiar with ABD plastic but I'm guessing you might mean ABS? If you do mean ABS then this can be quite a tricky plastic for epoxy to bond to. Often, ABS is 'flame treated' (i.e. scorched with a blow torch) to oxidise the surface and make it bond-able for epoxy resin. I know for sure what level of adhesion you'll get I would suggest preparing the surface of the wheel (probably by abrading and then flame treating it) and then do a peel-test with a small sample patch. If the patch bonds well and takes a lot of force to remove then you can be confident that the carbon fibre/epoxy has bonded well. In terms of the total amount of strength that you add, that would depend on the thickness of the carbon fibre 'skin' - you could add multiple layers if you need more strength.
Yes, it is ABS,sorry it was my typing mistake.
Can u give me an idea about flame treatment.
Then Sir Can u suggest me an alternative for ABS any other material of which i can make mould.
I`d like to see how to manufacture tubes or pipes cause there aint no videos online on how to do that
Well, you're in luck! We have a quick video tutorial already in the pipeline showing how to make a tubular elbow. There's a bit of work to do on it yet but it should be ready in a week or two.
thats awsome,cant wait to see.can understand there is a bit of work,and never fully understood who exactly how this is done. your videos are very inspirational and are so well done,they have helped med alot on understanding and how things are done the proper way,
Still not materialised?
How to strength the places where two moulds join together, for example, the 90 degree rotating pipe, if you lay fabric on each mould, when you join them together, the only connected is the resin instead of fabric, then how to strengen them?
You can do that in the manufacturing process, or even laminate carbon tape or fabric over the join to make it stronger afterwards. A bit of careful thought during the planning phase can mean you do the overlapping as the part is made, making things simpler and quicker overall.
Hi, what board is this? What sizes do it comes in and price please.
It's our EP700 Epoxy Tooling Board. If you click the link in the description (above) it will take you to the 'project page' on our website which includes links to all the products used in the video.
Would it be possible to carve a model from this material by hand?
It is similar in consistency to very hard wood/solid plastic so it would take a very long time by hand. Machine/cnc is the only practical way in most cases.
can you tell us what type of cnc is?
This is a basic Chinese made desktop CNC that we purchased off eBay. The brand on this machine says "CNCest".
What CNC router did you used to machine the tooling board?
It's a CNCEST 60/40.
Hello, what is the cnc stock made from?
It's epoxy tooling board. There's a link in the description (above) which takes you to a project page which has links to all of the products used in this video.
The tooling board, is it made by Trelleborg?
Hi, no, it's not. Our tooling board is Sika.
how much would machining moulds like the one in the start of the video costs?
Hi Lee, that *really* depends on where you go to get the machining done.
Generally speaking you're paying for the time on the machine, how much that time costs tends to depend on how busy the machine shop is; if they have little or no spare capacity then you'll pay more for time on the machine. There are some online places where you can upload a CAD file, choose your material, and get an instant price; these would be a good place to start.
For a really small job, like the pattern we machined in this video, it could even work out cheaper to buy a small desktop CNC machine. The one we used in this video was around £600.
is there an Australian distributor?
I'm afraid not sorry although we can ship from the UK but for very heavy products like this, it may not be cost effective.
Can shellac be used to seal the tooling board?
Hi Nathaniel, we would not recommend shellac as its properties are inferior to the S120, especially in terms of sealing ability and temperature resistance.
Hi again Do you have chapping to Egypt???
Yes, we can ship to Egypt although we are generally unable to send anything classed as 'dangerous goods' (so solvents, resins, release agents etc.) to Egypt in small quantities. For large industrial orders we are able to organise transport of all materials but this would generally be for large palletised orders.
Compressed air a no-no for dust?
It can work but generally blows the dust around. An Extraction system that removes the dust tend to be more effective.
What is the technical name of epoxy tooling board? High density urethane foam ?
No, definitely not. The epoxy tooling board is *made from* epoxy. In this video we're using our EB700 Epoxy Tooling Board. We don't use polyurethane tooling board because polyurethane inhibits the cure of epoxy prepregs. Also, for this type of work you really need to talking of tooling board or block rather than 'foam' which would generally imply a much lower density material than we're using here.
Hi, what material is the green one that is milled
The board is our Epoxy Tooling Block which you can find here: www.easycomposites.co.uk/#!/patterns-moulds-and-tooling/tooling-and-modelling-board/EP700-High-Temperature-Epoxy-Tooling-Board.html
in india where shall get this tooling board
We don't have any Indian distributors unfortunately.
Please release part 2 :))
Won't be long! - It's pretty much done, should be ready and on line in a few days.
yeeeeeeeeeeees :)
Thats exactly what I needed as a video!!
which material on this pattern making
Any consideration of making a mold using a 3D printer?
As long as the surface is sealed to stop any issues of porosity, then for some applications it may be possible to 3D print a mould. However the material needs to be suitable for curing with pre-preg if you follow that route.
@@easycompositestv Thanks for your reply. I'm considering to print my mold, but I prefer to hear from the real experts here's my idea, correct me if I'm wrong.
The mold can be made from ABS and smoothed with acetone, then treated with wax for a non-stick surface. Using the air dry vacuum bag methodology, the mold can have optimized drainage (via any CAD software) for a better resin flow, the only disadvantage could be a warped mold due to the internal combustion while curing the epoxy resin.
How accurate is this idea? Be honest, It's rubbish!?
Can the pattern be reused?
Provided it was not significantly damaged when releasing the mould, then there is no reason why you can't reuse the pattern. You would need to repair any damage and then re-apply release agents before using the pattern to make another mould.
Unfortunately i dont have a cnc router. Does anyone know a company in UK or Germany which could mill the mould?
Have a Google around for "CNC maching UK" or something along those lines; there are a number of CNC places. You might also want to think about the size of your piece and the quotes you're getting for the machining because for small parts (like the one in this video) especially if you have a few projects to do, you might find you can buy a small desktop CNC for not much more money than the machining would cost.
have a look at makerspaces, you can pay about 10 quid to use their tools. most have a cnc router you can use.
Which CNC machine is used in this video?
It's a CNCEST 60/40.
Where do I get Epoxy Tooling Board from?
From our website. In this video we're using our EP700 Epoxy Tooling Board: www.easycomposites.co.uk/#!/patterns-moulds-and-tooling/tooling-and-modelling-board/EP700-High-Temperature-Epoxy-Tooling-Board.html
is there a way to make it? Is it made of polyester resin?
It's made from epoxy resin (hence the name 'epoxy tooling board'). I can't imagine that you could make it any less expensively than you could buy it for and if you buy the proper board you know it will have the right density, stability and machining properties.
sorry, that was a stupid question :)
What is the cnc machine brand
It is a chinese XYZ brand machine.
May I know the CNC machine make and model?
It's a CNC-EST, Chinese-made and purchased on eBay; I'm afraid we don't know a great deal more about it. There are certainly better (and more expensive) machines around but this one has worked very well and been more than up to anything we've thrown at it so far.
@@easycompositestv wonderful work. I am going to buy one definitely
@@ebadurrahman8523 Its our pleasure to be of assistance.
Buongiorno come si chiama il materiale verde?
Il materiale verde è "Epoxy Tooling Board" - è il nostro EB700.
What the name of mold material
If you're referring to the green block material that we CNC machine, that's our EB700 Epoxy Tooling Board, you can find it here on our website: www.easycomposites.co.uk/#!/patterns-moulds-and-tooling/tooling-and-modelling-board/EP700-High-Temperature-Epoxy-Tooling-Board.html
What material is this?
The board being machined is Epoxy Tooling Board which you can find here: www.easycomposites.co.uk/#!/patterns-moulds-and-tooling/tooling-and-modelling-board/EP700-High-Temperature-Epoxy-Tooling-Board.html
Thanks
I’m only subscribed because the guy is cute. I have no idea what any of that stuff is.
Im 900...yaya..!!
Hello Sir. We find your channel interesting! Would you mind to share your business email with us? Have a nice day.
Hello , what is the green material?
The Green Material is our EB700 Epoxy Tooling Block: www.easycomposites.co.uk/eb700-high-temperature-epoxy-tooling-board