Thank you SO MUCH for this step-wise video!! Reading Chilton's was not clear,I was concerned about access and possible spring compressors, etc. But your video shows that the job is WAY easier than I thought originally. Having had my shocks changed about 80K ago, I remember how much of a difference new shocks make to a ride. I'll be doing mine tomorrow!! Cheers, mate.
Hi James, awesome videos! ... Couple of questions for you ...b are you treating the metal work with lanoguard as you go? ... Also I like the floaty feel of the T25 suspension, would oil give the plushest ride or would it be best with gas
Hello James, is there any way to get in touch with you? I watch all your videos, great job. I wanted to know where you picked up the repair manual for your van. Jeff
I’m new to Vanagon maintenance having recently giving up finding anyone in Arkansas that will touch my ‘84 Westy. When you’re looking at shocks are they “You get what you pay for.” Or good name brand are better value? I have a van that I camp with at least once a month and I see a lot of chatter about FOX or Edlebrock or Delco. Does it pay to shop by price?
Hi James, I see on all you videos that you also clean and paint the areas where you replace stuff. What kind of black are you using ? black paint ? tar ? tectyl ? just curious. You make amazing good videos. thanks so much. Ton from Belgium
@@JamesAkers Great video James. Did you do any prep work to the rusty surface areas before applying the Rust- Oleum? Love the look and the difference it made, keep up the great work 👍🏼
How do you know the top bushing is tightened and squished correctly? Is it really just a few turns until the thread is out? I am about to install the same setup and was wondering how to get to that 30nm since torque wrench cant get in. Thank you! Loving your videos, very helpful!
Good and useful info...I suggest you should consider using Anti-Seize...it make future servicing much simpler and less having to deal with rust-unified hardware...I agree with reusing the compression bumpstops (price you noted is unnecessarily high), but your top bushes didn't look that bad (some surface crazing will always occur and be evident, but if its only a surface affect, you could reuse the with no ill effects, and plenty of service life)...besides top bush is only in play during rebound (which is easier than compression). Cheers
Great tips Ron, thank you. I think my future self will curse me for not putting anything on the threads, I keep forgetting! I've asked at the end of the ball joint video actually about using copper slip on threads, does it affect the torque setting?
@@JamesAkers Threads lubed with oil or grease,, or a particulate filled grease like copper slip or anti-seize do require a "K-Factor" reduction in specified fastening torque ...10-15% reduction is a good general rule that was given to me by a Loktite application engineer. Cheers
Not sure if others can advise as my only frame of reference is against the original shocks. They're much stiffer which makes the van feel more sure footed.
How are the B4’a doing now? 5+ months after install? I’ve heard they can soften up a bit over time, which is why for campers GoWesty is recommending B6 XHD (extra heavy duty) shocks for the weight.
Vise grip on top of the shock tab usually will hold it well enough to get nut off. Mine were 33 yrs old, tops came off ok, lower bolts seized, fun times!
Great work! Your videos are brilliant. I did this all to my van a few months ago but one thing that's been bugging me is that I cant get my hands on some new top shock nut covers (251413437), brickwerks have been out of stock for over a year now and everywhere else online seems to be too. I don't suppose you know where else I could get them from do you? Cheers
Cheers Eliott! I picked them up on eBay from Mick at VW T25 NW. Drop him a message, he'll probably have some knocking about: ebay.co.uk/usr/t25vanspares
The small round metal bushing one that slides on the damper that came with the Bilstein shock out of the box, where did you use it in the reassembly? Did you leave it on and force it into the bottom of the bumper. You will see the metal sleeve bushing on the new shock at Timestamp 9:59
I asked my vendor Gowesty the same question here is the response I got today- "That spacer needs to be inserted up into the bump stop. If you are having issues getting it into the underside of the bump stop, you can use a little lithium grease on it. It is necessary to use it as without it the top nut will run out of threads, and the shock won’t fully tighten down"
![[UNCUT] “บอสณวัฒน์” ลากไส้!! ใครหนุนหลัง "แม่ตั๊ก ป๋าเบียร์" I คนดังนั่งเคลียร์ I 30 ก.ย. 67](http://i.ytimg.com/vi/QlD7mU2KKRk/mqdefault.jpg)
The best Vanagon videos on the internet! Thank you for the time you spent on all your videos, you've been a tremendous help!
Excellent work. It's great having these videos as a reference. The details you include and the format is much appreciated.
Very helpful, thanks….what are you painting the suspension components with? Looks great.
Thanks Steven. I used Rustoleum Combicolor in Black.
Another brilliant video. I'll be doing this before the summer. Thanks again and glad you're back James!
Cheers Richard. Had a gap as we had a baby and i'm doing a mad rush to get these videos out before the next one arrives!
@@JamesAkers Congratulations! These videos are great and easy to follow so I look forward to the rest. Watching Upper Control Arm now.
Thank you SO MUCH for this step-wise video!! Reading Chilton's was not clear,I was concerned about access and possible spring compressors, etc. But your video shows that the job is WAY easier than I thought originally. Having had my shocks changed about 80K ago, I remember how much of a difference new shocks make to a ride. I'll be doing mine tomorrow!! Cheers, mate.
Hi James, awesome videos! ... Couple of questions for you ...b are you treating the metal work with lanoguard as you go? ... Also I like the floaty feel of the T25 suspension, would oil give the plushest ride or would it be best with gas
Forget using teeny tiny 6mm spanner and reach for your set of molegrips.
Hello James, I watch all of your videos and I wanted to ask where can i get a repair book like you have?
Thank you
Jeff
Hello James, is there any way to get in touch with you? I watch all your videos, great job. I wanted to know where you picked up the repair manual for your van.
Jeff
Thank's I really appreciate you'r videos for the clarity of explainations and top video filming #1!!!
I’m new to Vanagon maintenance having recently giving up finding anyone in Arkansas that will touch my ‘84 Westy. When you’re looking at shocks are they “You get what you pay for.” Or good name brand are better value? I have a van that I camp with at least once a month and I see a lot of chatter about FOX or Edlebrock or Delco. Does it pay to shop by price?
You have a gap on the rear bottom corner of the sliding door, if you fix it, it will help a lot with the noise inside ;)
Hi James, I see on all you videos that you also clean and paint the areas where you replace stuff. What kind of black are you using ? black paint ? tar ? tectyl ? just curious. You make amazing good videos. thanks so much. Ton from Belgium
I was wondering the same. Great video btw.
Hi Ton, it's Rust-oleum Combicolor and is available in spray cans and tins in lots of different colours. www.rust-oleum.eu/product/combicolor-original
Do you use a brush or anything to clean the surfaces beforehand?
@@JamesAkers Great video James. Did you do any prep work to the rusty surface areas before applying the Rust- Oleum? Love the look and the difference it made, keep up the great work 👍🏼
Nice video, well explained 😀
Hello
what bilstein is better on t3? b4 b6, b8...?
I am from Morocco and I want to get the instruction book t3
Thanks for the detailed instructions! I wish you success and good health! This year I will also be repairing my Bus!
Hello James,
Well done, saw this on 80/90...😀
Clear presentation and demonstration.
Subscribed.
Cordialement,
What a brilliant clear video, you gave me the confidence to go change the dampers myself now, thank you so much! 💯
Where do you get the bolts for the shock absorbers? :)
Good old Brickwerks again. Front: www.brickwerks.co.uk/bolt-m14x1-5-110mm-grade-10-bzp.html Rear: www.brickwerks.co.uk/damper-bolt-t3-rear.html
Thanks for the detailed video. It was really easy. Even for an amateur 😁
Great video. Very useful as I was unsure where those collects fitted. Keep up the good work 🤙
I really like the methodical approach you take in your vids...great work!
How do you know the top bushing is tightened and squished correctly?
Is it really just a few turns until the thread is out?
I am about to install the same setup and was wondering how to get to that 30nm since torque wrench cant get in.
Thank you! Loving your videos, very helpful!
Thanks! 30Nm isn't much really so I just set it so the same amout if threads were showing. The pressure comes when the wheel is back on the floor.
Nice Work. It was mentioned, but if you missed it; Fronts are 30Nm Top & 150Nm Bottom. Rears 90Nm
Thanks martin. I've also added the torque settings and parts list to the blog post.
We have the same torque wrench :)
Such a great tool!
Again a very nice Video, which comes just to the Right Time for me!!
Cheers Eddy!
Good and useful info...I suggest you should consider using Anti-Seize...it make future servicing much simpler and less having to deal with rust-unified hardware...I agree with reusing the compression bumpstops (price you noted is unnecessarily high), but your top bushes didn't look that bad (some surface crazing will always occur and be evident, but if its only a surface affect, you could reuse the with no ill effects, and plenty of service life)...besides top bush is only in play during rebound (which is easier than compression). Cheers
Great tips Ron, thank you. I think my future self will curse me for not putting anything on the threads, I keep forgetting! I've asked at the end of the ball joint video actually about using copper slip on threads, does it affect the torque setting?
@@JamesAkers Threads lubed with oil or grease,, or a particulate filled grease like copper slip or anti-seize do require a "K-Factor" reduction in specified fastening torque ...10-15% reduction is a good general rule that was given to me by a Loktite application engineer. Cheers
Interesting! The shop that put in my Blistens didn't put in those inside the springs "long bump stops." Looks like there are short ones in there.
Great video. How stiff do you find the B4s? I am torn between the B4s and B6s.
Not sure if others can advise as my only frame of reference is against the original shocks. They're much stiffer which makes the van feel more sure footed.
@@JamesAkers Thanks
How are the B4’a doing now? 5+ months after install? I’ve heard they can soften up a bit over time, which is why for campers GoWesty is recommending B6 XHD (extra heavy duty) shocks for the weight.
Vise grip on top of the shock tab usually will hold it well enough to get nut off. Mine were 33 yrs old, tops came off ok, lower bolts seized, fun times!
Like the “video magic” of your rear mounts going from rust and crust to clean and black! Thanks for an excellent video!
Proper video lad. Cheers.
Wicked videos 👍🏻
Great work! Your videos are brilliant. I did this all to my van a few months ago but one thing that's been bugging me is that I cant get my hands on some new top shock nut covers (251413437), brickwerks have been out of stock for over a year now and everywhere else online seems to be too. I don't suppose you know where else I could get them from do you? Cheers
Cheers Eliott! I picked them up on eBay from Mick at VW T25 NW. Drop him a message, he'll probably have some knocking about: ebay.co.uk/usr/t25vanspares
any chance you live near Taunton, Somerset and accept beer as payment for knowledge and time?
Hi Graham. I'm up in the North West unfortunately. Happy to help remotely if I can.
@@JamesAkers Cheers James, just joshing. ive done the rear and now doing the front thanks to your video. please keep up the great work.
great instructional videos @James, you definitely have a knack for teaching. watched a few and now subscribed.
Thanks Chris, appreciate it!
Good information,
Where can I buy a copy of the book you use?
Did you not consider lowering with new springs
If anything i'd go the other way and have a lift kit with all terrain tyres. One for the future!
@@JamesAkers makes sense in a camping field but surely not great on the motorway
The small round metal bushing one that slides on the damper that came with the Bilstein shock out of the box, where did you use it in the reassembly? Did you leave it on and force it into the bottom of the bumper. You will see the metal sleeve bushing on the new shock at Timestamp 9:59
No, I just took it off as it wasn't needed
@@JamesAkers Thanks!!
I asked my vendor Gowesty the same question here is the response I got today- "That spacer needs to be inserted up into the bump stop. If you are having issues getting it into the underside of the bump stop, you can use a little lithium grease on it. It is necessary to use it as without it the top nut will run out of threads, and the shock won’t fully tighten down"
I wanted to pass along - Your Videos are great!
@@JohnSmith-oj3uu Interesting. It definitely didn't fit when I tried. The metal sleeves that fit in the bump stops seem to do the same job