How to Break In a New Pair of Climbing Shoes
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- เผยแพร่เมื่อ 19 ก.ย. 2020
- Breaking in a new pair of climbing shoes doesn't have to be painful or long. I walk you through 5 steps to make breaking in a new pair of climbing shoes easier, painless and faster.
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Just bought those same evolves before stumbling on this video and I'm in love with them
It is hard choosing shoes. I tend to wear Scarpa Velcro laceups, size 43. I bought a pair of Scarpa Maestro with laces, size 43, and they kill one toe on one foot. Same with La Sportiva Testarossas. Tried a wooden shoe expander, tried cotton wool in-between my big toe and the offending toe. Considered toe amputation just to teach it a lesson. The internet seems to be full of people selling their new shoes, bought off the internet, but too small.
It is super hard to choose shoes. I really like my Madrock Drones but since I've only used a couple other shoes before, I figured I should try a few different ones. I'll have to see if I can fit in any of the shoes you mentioned. Every Scarpa and La Sportiva shoe that I've tried on didn't fit either the toe-box or heel cup but maybe I need to give them another try :)
Try silicone/gel toe caps. They were a game changer for me!
I've just bought my first pair of shoes (Scarpa Reflex V) yesterday and was pretty disappointed. I only got to try it for 2 boulders before buying it and it felt fine but after 2 hours, I was in agony 😅 I'm used to my toes hurting from rental shoes but the achilles heels was new. I could barely walk at the end of the day. I really hope it's cause they weren't broken like you said and I just climbed for too long
i have the evolv kronos, coming from a la sportiva finale... the kronos are so amazing fit me perfectly.
Gonna be breaking in my first pair of shoes this weekend, your videos have been very helpful!
Nylon socks, i never thought of that i was using a plastic bag this whole time
M’y second toe is longer than my big toe and it kinda hurts what should I do lol
So basically a 6 minute video telling me to just use my climbing shoes... GENIUS!
Lol
man its tough picking shoes. i just started cause of school activities and stuff but man am i confused. Normally im a US 10.5 but in the end i had to get Unparrallel Engage VCS shoes size 10.0. at this point im still kinda confused whether the size is too small or smth. maybe its just cause my long toe is kinda longer than others so it bends more upwards and abit hurts
People have different shaped feet, which also plays into the fit of a shoe and what shoe brand/style is best. However, if "hurts" means "pain" and it makes you feel like you can't or don't want to climb, then it may be better to try a larger size shoe.
@@SendEdition oooh. thank youu
New climbing shoes are exciting but can also be painful to break in. How many pairs of climbing shoes have you had so far?
6 (I’m still a Gumby and prolly have too many shoes)
- Got some rando evolves at a shop first time buying shoes right when I found climbing. They fell apart cuz I left them in my car and the sole came apart.
- bought some instinct VS after those and ended up with giant holes through the rand 2 months after (oops terrible footwork)
- bought some instinct VSR and TC Pros after that at the same time (TC pros for outside and the cracks at my school wall and originally the VSR for gym but after noticing the edge going down quickly I ordered some $50 red chilie beaters to use in the gym and the vsr for sending projects and outside overhung stuff
- now my vsr are in to get Resoles but I have boulder comp soon so I ordered some scarpa dragos and they sent a freakishly small size (hence me finding this video trying to break them in haha)
3 pairs. First pair I got from a shop called Decathlon. Wore them once but didnt like the fit. Ended up buying a pair of Boreal Jokers (lace) followed a few months later by 5.10 Kirigami which are velcro.
Uno i just bought kronos’s today
La Sportiva Muiras are leather yes?
I did a quick check on REI and yes, they are leather - bit.ly/2JQX6i1
I have two pairs now, after a year of climbing (after 12 years of not climbing). The first pair are called Skyhawk (forgot the brand at this time) and they are now as comfortable as sneakers but the heel cup does not fit my heel -- it squishes in -- and there is no rubber on top so toe hooks are impossible. So I went to buy a pair that had rubber on the top of the front of the foot, with a heel cup that fit my heel, which turned out to be La Sportiva Solutions. They fit the best out of ALL the other shoes I tried at REI, and I got these 2 weeks ago. In the first week I poured water into a plastic bag stuffed into each shoe then froze the water, waited 24 hours, then broke the ice and the shoe fit better. They still hurt like hell climbing but it's slowly getting better as I can wear them longer without needing to take them off from pain. I wear socks and tape up my heel to prevent injuries. I bought a wooden shoe stretcher and will use that, gently. I think it usually takes a month for me to break in shoes.
Newbie question: What does breaking in the shoes even exactly mean? What happens to the or changes if the shoe is broken in?
when you buy a newer pair, the rubber and other materials in the shoe are usually really rigid and not very flexible. When you’re breaking your shoes in, that is loosening up all the materials each time you wear them, making them fit better and better each time and getting more comfortably each time
I thought climbing shoes was without soles ?
Well shit I went all out for 2 hours in my brand new pair of solution comps…now I have blisters the size of blueberries on my heels
This video basically says: wear your shoes. Thanks for nothing
Well you clearly wasn’t listening
Yeah I’m gonna have to say this video is pretty pointless. With modern synthetic shoes, there’s almost no break-in being done, and what you have when you buy it is pretty much what you get in terms of fit and function. The innovation of fully internal tension systems even means the thickness of the outsole is not very relevant anymore, so for many major manufacturers that won’t even change a shoe’s characteristic. If your climbing shoes are ever giving you blisters, you probably screwed up the sizing, or left em on too long. Nothing to do with the newness of the shoe there (again, synthetic shoes). The only possible exception there is alcantara in the toes of some high end scarpa’s, which has memory and takes a session or two to finally settle into your foot shape. Most of what is happening with a new shoe is the climber adapting to it, not the other way around. Also, there is no sock in the world thin enough to not have a noticeable impact on sensitivity. It may not be important to many climbers especially newer climbers or non-competition gym climbers (comp climbers need the sensitivity for those volumes), but let it be known that performance is being left on the table by adding another layer to your shoes.
As for leather shoes, however, you hit the nail pretty much on the head. I think it’s best to just do your break-in off the wall to save the rubber and your feet, just wear them around for a little while and do the whole shower song and dance.