Good video, Simon. Thanks for taking us on the journey with you, complete with your thought process and discoveries. It’s really helpful when we come to make decisions for our bikes (and ourselves). Enjoy the rest of your weekend!
Thanks Christopher. I found it fairly easy to swap between 650 and 700 on the Sonder when they were both Hunt. But I don't fancy paying for another set of Zipps!
Seat tube angle is so important when switching to a new bike. That affects everything. It's all about maintaining the seating position in relation to the bottom bracket.
@@alwaysanotheradventure You get thin shims for brake rotors, so you can get any 2 wheels set up to match exactly the same for the caliper alignment. You can send me the spare 303s if you already got another pair though ;-)
Thanks for the videos. I look forward to your Marin Restoration. You may find that it’s still a pretty good ride and has an element of old Skool fun that’s hard to beat 👍
I have a Co-Motion Ochoco. It’s not technically a gravel bike by any means, meant to be a touring bike for short people like me. It has 650b wheels and I have continental terra speed (prior had terra trail, just replaced them a few weeks ago as they were worn out, I got the tires that were available.) my fork only supports up to 40 width, hasn’t been an issue. I’ve found that I feel pretty confident riding just about any surface I’ve tried so far. Paved, gravel, … I don’t do single track
Just get the same model wheelset for your second one and put on tubless road tires for road. End of problem- make sure to use same disks and same cassette as well
Hi I really enjoy your videos, I've even tried and enjoyed wild swimming ! I'm with the two wheelset approach, particularly with tubeless tyres. I run these on a Lynskey cyclo-cross bike and it works well as a winter/ touring bike on road with slicks and with 700c 37 mm knobblies off road. I think that a modern gravel frame will be able to carry a much wider tyre though
Hi again Simon - my tupensworth! Don't look too hard. With AXS, that is a beautiful bike - and with up to 50mm tyres, it is exactly what you are looking for .. and stick with the tubeless, it needn't be a messy process at all 😊 .. & PS. would be keen if you made a short vid about your campervan and how it fits in to your bike / swim life.
Thanks Stephen. I’ve hesitated about doing a van video because they’re pricey and I didn’t want it to seem like “look at the kit I have “. That said, they’re damn good (it’s my second) & Sean loves his. So perhaps we should. Thanks again.
As a second of zipp's isn't on the cards, tyre choice is more critical. I've found that big volume slick tyres (teravail rampart, rene herse, and challenge strada bianca) will go along way off road. They don't work so well when it gets muddy as the mechanical grip isn't there, but in summer it's a winner. My go to road tyre is now 40c and it's really no slower for a none professional cyclist. I really rate teravail tyres the light and supple in tan wall roll really well, and even the Rutland knobbly doesn't really seem to hold you back when you're on the black top. Plus I set up tubeless at home with a track pump, zero faff. Ps I don't work for teravail 😂
Good video - what you think is going to be a fairly easy project can suddenly grow arms and legs. I’ve changed up multiple saddles trying to find the one but I’m wondering if a good bike fit might be the way forwards
Long time subscriber but first time commenting. But you can consider using a centerlock rotor shims from boydcycling or ebay on one of the wheelset so you don't have to adjust the calipers when you change wheels. I have both a hope rs4 five20 and hyper road wheels for my fairlight secan which no derailleur or caliper adjustment needed.
Good to hear from you. I think a lot of it is luck! I have three wheelsets for my Sonder and they all just slot into place - it does help when the pads are a little worn. I'd not heard of those shims - I'll bear that in mind, thank you.
G’ Day love the videos the bike looks great and stick to 45c. You don’t need 650 unless your going hardcore off road. I look forward to seeing the Marin making a debut give the Old gal a good clean and de grease. Old Skool is the best skool
I’ve had many bikes. I’ve also owned a magnesium framed bike. The chainstay snapped on the way to work. It’s the only bike frame I’ve ever had that has snapped. 😳😳🙂
@@bikepackingadventure7913 corrosion was a big problem for the first iteration of magnesium frames. It was why they fell out of favor and were replaced with the advent of carbon fiber. The new frames are being ceramic coated in an effort to prevent corrosion. Only time will tell if it is an adequate solution. But your point is well taken and a concern.
I’m sure there is nothing wrong with the bike at all. However, is the geometry of the bike suitable for you? I wonder in hindsight a bike fit prior to buying such an expensive bike would be beneficial? If you don’t get on even with the bike fit, might have to consider selling and trying again?
Interesting video Simon, I run 700c on my Planet X Tempest with 45mm tyres for gravel and swap to 32mm(which measure up at 34mm) for road. I don’t have to adjust my gears but nearly always have to adjust the callipers to stop the pads rubbing. The tempest will easily take a 50mm tyre at 700c if I want to fit one. I have wondered if I could just use the Tempest full time-I use it as my winter road bike and gravel bike-and possibly get rid of my Specialized Roubaix-but I ado love riding the Roubaix so probably won’t. Do you still have your Sonder? I wondered as I was interested in how you were finding the Ti riding experience since I went down the same route.
Hi John - still have the Sonder and use two wheelsets on it (same callipers issue as you). I'm fairly sure it will remain my 'tourer' and multi-day ride. We've a series of three videos on a great multi-day route coming very soon.
With the Vielo have you thought of having 2 sets of 700c wheels?-if they are the same make you will probably find the gear and brake adjustment problem goes away? I now run 3 sets of 700c on my Tempest, 32mm tyres for road, and a set of Rock and Roads @ 43mm for mud and 45mm Hutchinson which are virtually slick for summer gravel. Loving the input Simon
I took the Sonder in for the fitting at the same time David and the back end was already fairly close to the final position of the Vielo. The front end is different, but I use it more as a touring bike for which I want that higher position.
So what was actually adjusted, the height or the angle of the saddle? Also, how long have you been running the Riddlers? I've found them extremely puncture prone, saying that I'm running tubes. Maybe it's time to go tubeless hey. Glad to see you're getting there though 👍
Completely new saddle, height (up) and setback on rails, which seems to have put me further forward, because my stem was actually longer. Much of this felt utterly counterintuitive but I’m enjoying the position. I also have a strength set of exercises. That said, I can’t see me riding long multi-days with the yet.
I’d have to go through the measurement in detail but here’s how I feel it. Completely new saddle, height (up) and setback on rails, which seems to have put me further forward, because my stem was actually longer. Much of this felt utterly counterintuitive but I’m enjoying the position. I also have a strength set of exercises. That said, I can’t see me riding long multi-days with this yet.
I too am curious about the saddle adjustments as I have tinkered with saddle and stem to deal with back issues. When you say "setback on rails" do you mean the saddle is moved/positioned further forward? That would shorten your reach to the bars of course, and maybe compensate for flipping your stem back down? I can't visualize how moving the saddle back and flipping the stem back down, resulting in longer reach, would take pressure off of your hands. Thanks!
@@mattkavanaugh5623 Yes Matt. ‘Saddle Setback’ is a class of measurement like Stack or Reach. I agree what I wrote wasn’t clear. The saddle was put forward slightly but also changed for a shorter, wider saddle with a cutout for a more comfortable forward pivoting of my hips. I hope that’s clearer.
@@alwaysanotheradventure Thanks! Yes, I understand now. I have done something similar, switching my gravel and MTB bikes to the Specialized Power Comp saddle.
If I buy yet another wheelset (700) Liz will probably chin me. But I really don’t fancy regular switches of tubeless tyres. I feel a bit ‘stuck’ for now. Good thing the Riddler tyres roll well on road.
@@alwaysanotheradventure 😂 please note my use of the word "trade" ! Need to flog one set before purchasing t'other to maintain a healthy brownie point balance! 🤪
Good luck fixing the clicking noise Simon. Creaks and clicks are extremely annoying on a bicycle, and eat away at confidence in taking them on adventures.
Good video, Simon. Thanks for taking us on the journey with you, complete with your thought process and discoveries. It’s really helpful when we come to make decisions for our bikes (and ourselves). Enjoy the rest of your weekend!
Thanks Andrew
great video re bike position/fit.
on the 2 wheel set up, from experience it works if both sets of wheels have the same hubs.
Thanks Christopher. I found it fairly easy to swap between 650 and 700 on the Sonder when they were both Hunt. But I don't fancy paying for another set of Zipps!
Another good video. Looking forward to the others you mentioned. 👍
Seat tube angle is so important when switching to a new bike. That affects everything. It's all about maintaining the seating position in relation to the bottom bracket.
Very informative. 👍
Two wheelset with the same hubs might avoid the hassle of brake and gear re-alignment.
It might but… “Hi Liz, you know those hideously expensive Zipp wheels? I’m buying another set”. (Runs for cover) 😁 😂
@@alwaysanotheradventure You get thin shims for brake rotors, so you can get any 2 wheels set up to match exactly the same for the caliper alignment. You can send me the spare 303s if you already got another pair though ;-)
@@ColinSmith2001 😁. Thanks for that info.
Thanks for the videos. I look forward to your Marin Restoration. You may find that it’s still a pretty good ride and has an element of old Skool fun that’s hard to beat 👍
Might take a while 😁
It is always another great video ❤️
Great video Simon! I’m running 700 x 45 for both gravel and road and love them. No need for 650b for me! Cheers!!
Cheers Rob
I have a Co-Motion Ochoco. It’s not technically a gravel bike by any means, meant to be a touring bike for short people like me. It has 650b wheels and I have continental terra speed (prior had terra trail, just replaced them a few weeks ago as they were worn out, I got the tires that were available.) my fork only supports up to 40 width, hasn’t been an issue. I’ve found that I feel pretty confident riding just about any surface I’ve tried so far. Paved, gravel, … I don’t do single track
Just get the same model wheelset for your second one and put on tubless road tires for road. End of problem- make sure to use same disks and same cassette as well
Thanks for the Piers - I guess I have to fork out for another set of Zipps then!
@@alwaysanotheradventure good excuse… still cheaper than a second bike…. With zips
@@pierssamson4069 😁
@@pierssamson4069 I’ll try that one 😁
Brake caliper adjustment is not necessary if you match the rotor position with SHIMs between wheelsets
I only learnt about those shims from an earlier comment- thank you.
Hi I really enjoy your videos, I've even tried and enjoyed wild swimming ! I'm with the two wheelset approach, particularly with tubeless tyres. I run these on a Lynskey cyclo-cross bike and it works well as a winter/ touring bike on road with slicks and with 700c 37 mm knobblies off road. I think that a modern gravel frame will be able to carry a much wider tyre though
Hi again Simon - my tupensworth! Don't look too hard. With AXS, that is a beautiful bike - and with up to 50mm tyres, it is exactly what you are looking for .. and stick with the tubeless, it needn't be a messy process at all 😊 .. & PS. would be keen if you made a short vid about your campervan and how it fits in to your bike / swim life.
Thanks Stephen. I’ve hesitated about doing a van video because they’re pricey and I didn’t want it to seem like “look at the kit I have “. That said, they’re damn good (it’s my second) & Sean loves his. So perhaps we should. Thanks again.
Tuppence.
N+ 1 works for me ,just bought Salas Fargo loving it more than my road bike.
Yeah I still ride all my bikes. I think this one-bike-to-rule-them-all works as a TH-cam title and not much else! 😁
As a second of zipp's isn't on the cards, tyre choice is more critical. I've found that big volume slick tyres (teravail rampart, rene herse, and challenge strada bianca) will go along way off road. They don't work so well when it gets muddy as the mechanical grip isn't there, but in summer it's a winner. My go to road tyre is now 40c and it's really no slower for a none professional cyclist. I really rate teravail tyres the light and supple in tan wall roll really well, and even the Rutland knobbly doesn't really seem to hold you back when you're on the black top. Plus I set up tubeless at home with a track pump, zero faff.
Ps I don't work for teravail 😂
Some tyre names there I didn’t know. Thanks Andy.
Good video - what you think is going to be a fairly easy project can suddenly grow arms and legs. I’ve changed up multiple saddles trying to find the one but I’m wondering if a good bike fit might be the way forwards
Without a doubt. BUT finding a good bike fitter can be a challenge. I’ll try to find out if there’s a way the fitters suggest.
Long time subscriber but first time commenting. But you can consider using a centerlock rotor shims from boydcycling or ebay on one of the wheelset so you don't have to adjust the calipers when you change wheels. I have both a hope rs4 five20 and hyper road wheels for my fairlight secan which no derailleur or caliper adjustment needed.
Good to hear from you. I think a lot of it is luck! I have three wheelsets for my Sonder and they all just slot into place - it does help when the pads are a little worn. I'd not heard of those shims - I'll bear that in mind, thank you.
G’ Day love the videos the bike looks great and stick to 45c. You don’t need 650 unless your going hardcore off road.
I look forward to seeing the Marin making a debut give the Old gal a good clean and de grease. Old Skool is the best skool
Glad you like the vids- thanks for the comment
Have you tried a Vaast all road bike? Magnesium frame
I haven't no, but it sounds interesting. I don't get to ride many different bikes.
I’ve had many bikes. I’ve also owned a magnesium framed bike. The chainstay snapped on the way to work. It’s the only bike frame I’ve ever had that has snapped. 😳😳🙂
@@bikepackingadventure7913 corrosion was a big problem for the first iteration of magnesium frames. It was why they fell out of favor and were replaced with the advent of carbon fiber. The new frames are being ceramic coated in an effort to prevent corrosion. Only time will tell if it is an adequate solution. But your point is well taken and a concern.
I’m sure there is nothing wrong with the bike at all. However, is the geometry of the bike suitable for you?
I wonder in hindsight a bike fit prior to buying such an expensive bike would be beneficial?
If you don’t get on even with the bike fit, might have to consider selling and trying again?
You're spot on with this - getting the fit first, to work out the geometry that best suits, is clearly the more sensible way to go. I was daft.
Interesting video Simon, I run 700c on my Planet X Tempest with 45mm tyres for gravel and swap to 32mm(which measure up at 34mm) for road. I don’t have to adjust my gears but nearly always have to adjust the callipers to stop the pads rubbing. The tempest will easily take a 50mm tyre at 700c if I want to fit one. I have wondered if I could just use the Tempest full time-I use it as my winter road bike and gravel bike-and possibly get rid of my Specialized Roubaix-but I ado love riding the Roubaix so probably won’t. Do you still have your Sonder? I wondered as I was interested in how you were finding the Ti riding experience since I went down the same route.
Hi John - still have the Sonder and use two wheelsets on it (same callipers issue as you). I'm fairly sure it will remain my 'tourer' and multi-day ride. We've a series of three videos on a great multi-day route coming very soon.
With the Vielo have you thought of having 2 sets of 700c wheels?-if they are the same make you will probably find the gear and brake adjustment problem goes away? I now run 3 sets of 700c on my Tempest, 32mm tyres for road, and a set of Rock and Roads @ 43mm for mud and 45mm Hutchinson which are virtually slick for summer gravel. Loving the input Simon
Hi can you transfer your bike fit to your sonder bike and have a great ride on it ! Not that it not great also!
I took the Sonder in for the fitting at the same time David and the back end was already fairly close to the final position of the Vielo. The front end is different, but I use it more as a touring bike for which I want that higher position.
So what was actually adjusted, the height or the angle of the saddle? Also, how long have you been running the Riddlers? I've found them extremely puncture prone, saying that I'm running tubes. Maybe it's time to go tubeless hey. Glad to see you're getting there though 👍
Completely new saddle, height (up) and setback on rails, which seems to have put me further forward, because my stem was actually longer. Much of this felt utterly counterintuitive but I’m enjoying the position. I also have a strength set of exercises. That said, I can’t see me riding long multi-days with the yet.
I’d have to go through the measurement in detail but here’s how I feel it. Completely new saddle, height (up) and setback on rails, which seems to have put me further forward, because my stem was actually longer. Much of this felt utterly counterintuitive but I’m enjoying the position. I also have a strength set of exercises. That said, I can’t see me riding long multi-days with this yet.
I too am curious about the saddle adjustments as I have tinkered with saddle and stem to deal with back issues. When you say "setback on rails" do you mean the saddle is moved/positioned further forward? That would shorten your reach to the bars of course, and maybe compensate for flipping your stem back down? I can't visualize how moving the saddle back and flipping the stem back down, resulting in longer reach, would take pressure off of your hands. Thanks!
@@mattkavanaugh5623 Yes Matt. ‘Saddle Setback’ is a class of measurement like Stack or Reach. I agree what I wrote wasn’t clear. The saddle was put forward slightly but also changed for a shorter, wider saddle with a cutout for a more comfortable forward pivoting of my hips.
I hope that’s clearer.
@@alwaysanotheradventure Thanks! Yes, I understand now. I have done something similar, switching my gravel and MTB bikes to the Specialized Power Comp saddle.
Sounds like a trade of your 650 wheels for road tyres on a 700 and you're sorted??
If I buy yet another wheelset (700) Liz will probably chin me. But I really don’t fancy regular switches of tubeless tyres. I feel a bit ‘stuck’ for now. Good thing the Riddler tyres roll well on road.
@@alwaysanotheradventure 😂 please note my use of the word "trade" ! Need to flog one set before purchasing t'other to maintain a healthy brownie point balance! 🤪
A new video! Sunday just got better…
Really interesting to see a bike fitting on your actual bike (with adjustable bits), and not a jig 🤔
Ah well, if I’d gone to him BEFORE buying the bike he’d have put me on that and advised which bikes would best suit me.
It’s only £250 -£300 for a bike fit… that’s a bargain if your close to them
I felt it was worth a bit of a road trip
Good luck fixing the clicking noise Simon. Creaks and clicks are extremely annoying on a bicycle, and eat away at confidence in taking them on adventures.
Oh the click is gone Brian. Turned out it was the cleat in the pedal. Changing the cleat made it go away.
Excellent@@alwaysanotheradventure - nothing better than a quiet new bike!
N+1 should mean you and your significant other