Not sure how much cheaper it is. I can get a tube for around $10 which last for 20 - 30 differentials depending on how many teeth I use it on and if it's a custom setup where I need a lot of trial and error to get the depth correct. I see lipstick from $6 to $50 a stick and my bet is you won't get 20 diffs out of one or even two sticks. Since you have experience you can tell me how long it last.
I have done around 20 diffs in the last year and haven't got through half a stick, it is really cheap when your girlfriend leaves them lying around in the bathroom.
Parts suppliers where I am from only stock Prussian blue which isn't very good and they charge like a wounded bull for it. I picked up the use of lipstick from an article on a 9 inch rebuild.
Prussian Blue won't work. It dries too quick and is terrible for contact patch. My wife of 42 years rarely wears lipstick so I would have to purchase some. I get my contact paste from the internet and it ranges from $8 - $14 a tube. The amount needed all depends on how many teeth you paint and how many times you have to do this per diff. Normally I will paint 2-3 teeth in 3 locations around the ring gear. When I went to GM training they wanted us to paint every tooth. I just finished a custom rebuild that required a lot of trial and error to dial in the depth and pinion preload shims. I must have ran 20 separate contact patches using only 3 teeth before I got it dialed in. I don't think I even used 1/10 of the tube. If I get a chance to grab some lipstick I'm going to give it a try. I would really like to see how well it works. Someone once told me tooth paste also works but I never tried it. Thanks for the input.
I'm changing gears in a 8.5 chev 10 bolt, and after watching your videos it has verified my assumption that the pinion (with no shims) is to far out. Is there any thinner bearings or is there any other possibilities on why I'm heavy toe on the drive side and heavy heel on the coast side? Any input would be much appreciated. Your videos are the most helpful on u tube that I've found, thank you very much.
Where did you get your gearset from? If you got it from Summit or Randy's they often have tech support. There might be a special replacement bearing they know about for your application. If not see if there is a bearing specialty company in your area. Sometimes they are hard to find. Take your rear bearing and cup/race with you and go in and talk to them. Tell them you need a bearing with a lower or shorter profile. Also tell them the application. All bearings have a number on them, often it starts with LM. You may be able to call a bearing company and give them that number. They should be able to look up all the specifications including the profile height and suggest a shorter bearing over the phone. Lastly if all this fails maybe a machine shop can remove some metal from the back side of the pinion head where the rear bearing seats up against. I would suspect that you would need between .030" to .080" shorter bearing or metal removed from the pinion. With a larger value shims can be added to dial in your pinion depth. I would caution about going excessive on the bearing because a shorter bearing could reduce load capacity. It all depends on why the bearing is shorter. it could be shorter because the rollers are shorter or it could be shorter because there is a steeper angle on the bearings. Shorter rollers will reduce load capacity. steeper roller angle is OK. Hope this helps. Let me know what happens. NOTE. It's also possible you just got a bad gearset but not likely if you got it from a reputable reseller. Personally I don't trust Ebay resellers for certain items because they sometimes tend to mix and match and repackage.
DrivelineMaster, it's a motive gear set from speedway, and I'm thinking about going to bearing belt and chain, there super helpful, if not a grinding shop. I'm kinda leaning on grinding the race, but I need to spec the housing a bit, but im pretty sure there's no clearance issues. It just seems odd, I would never expect a product that's fully cnc from begging to double lapped, with matching serial numbers to have this problem
I went from 3.41 to 5.13, and the old pinion is 1.68 overall gear height including the little ledge the bearing rests on, and the 5.13 pinion is 1.76 it doesn't have a ledge
I personally wouldn't grind anything. If you need to take metal off it should be precision machined. Second, I would not machine the bearing or race at all. I would chuck the pinion into a lathe and remove a little from the back side of the gear. The pinion head height difference of only .008" is not very much but because of the larger gear ratio your contact has been effected. The 5.13:1 ratio will give you a nice addition to your low end torque just don't expect to get good gas mileage. You need to get that pattern off of the toe or you will just break these gears. Don't forget to break in the gearset once you get it all setup correctly.
DrivelineMaster, it would be on a deck grinding machine, at a machine shop, I used to have access to one but no longer. Turning the pinion could be done at Gear One, they are not to far from me.
So refreshing to see such a brief, professional and accurate explanation by someone presenting fact as opposed to opinion. Superb .Thankyou
Thanks. I try to practice that with all my videos although some subjects take longer than others to explain.
The contact patch explanation was really concise and well presented, thanks.
Perfect way to explain
Thank You
Help full thanks
Lipstick works better than gear marking compound and is way less expensive
Wow, Thanks for the tip. I will give that a try sometime.
Not sure how much cheaper it is. I can get a tube for around $10 which last for 20 - 30 differentials depending on how many teeth I use it on and if it's a custom setup where I need a lot of trial and error to get the depth correct. I see lipstick from $6 to $50 a stick and my bet is you won't get 20 diffs out of one or even two sticks. Since you have experience you can tell me how long it last.
I have done around 20 diffs in the last year and haven't got through half a stick, it is really cheap when your girlfriend leaves them lying around in the bathroom.
Parts suppliers where I am from only stock Prussian blue which isn't very good and they charge like a wounded bull for it. I picked up the use of lipstick from an article on a 9 inch rebuild.
Prussian Blue won't work. It dries too quick and is terrible for contact patch. My wife of 42 years rarely wears lipstick so I would have to purchase some. I get my contact paste from the internet and it ranges from $8 - $14 a tube. The amount needed all depends on how many teeth you paint and how many times you have to do this per diff. Normally I will paint 2-3 teeth in 3 locations around the ring gear. When I went to GM training they wanted us to paint every tooth. I just finished a custom rebuild that required a lot of trial and error to dial in the depth and pinion preload shims. I must have ran 20 separate contact patches using only 3 teeth before I got it dialed in. I don't think I even used 1/10 of the tube. If I get a chance to grab some lipstick I'm going to give it a try. I would really like to see how well it works. Someone once told me tooth paste also works but I never tried it. Thanks for the input.
Helpful, thanks.
Yes thanks
I'm changing gears in a 8.5 chev 10 bolt, and after watching your videos it has verified my assumption that the pinion (with no shims) is to far out. Is there any thinner bearings or is there any other possibilities on why I'm heavy toe on the drive side and heavy heel on the coast side?
Any input would be much appreciated.
Your videos are the most helpful on u tube that I've found, thank you very much.
Where did you get your gearset from? If you got it from Summit or Randy's they often have tech support. There might be a special replacement bearing they know about for your application. If not see if there is a bearing specialty company in your area. Sometimes they are hard to find. Take your rear bearing and cup/race with you and go in and talk to them. Tell them you need a bearing with a lower or shorter profile. Also tell them the application. All bearings have a number on them, often it starts with LM. You may be able to call a bearing company and give them that number. They should be able to look up all the specifications including the profile height and suggest a shorter bearing over the phone. Lastly if all this fails maybe a machine shop can remove some metal from the back side of the pinion head where the rear bearing seats up against. I would suspect that you would need between .030" to .080" shorter bearing or metal removed from the pinion. With a larger value shims can be added to dial in your pinion depth. I would caution about going excessive on the bearing because a shorter bearing could reduce load capacity. It all depends on why the bearing is shorter. it could be shorter because the rollers are shorter or it could be shorter because there is a steeper angle on the bearings. Shorter rollers will reduce load capacity. steeper roller angle is OK. Hope this helps. Let me know what happens. NOTE. It's also possible you just got a bad gearset but not likely if you got it from a reputable reseller. Personally I don't trust Ebay resellers for certain items because they sometimes tend to mix and match and repackage.
DrivelineMaster, it's a motive gear set from speedway, and I'm thinking about going to bearing belt and chain, there super helpful, if not a grinding shop. I'm kinda leaning on grinding the race, but I need to spec the housing a bit, but im pretty sure there's no clearance issues.
It just seems odd, I would never expect a product that's fully cnc from begging to double lapped, with matching serial numbers to have this problem
I went from 3.41 to 5.13, and the old pinion is 1.68 overall gear height including the little ledge the bearing rests on, and the 5.13 pinion is 1.76 it doesn't have a ledge
I personally wouldn't grind anything. If you need to take metal off it should be precision machined. Second, I would not machine the bearing or race at all. I would chuck the pinion into a lathe and remove a little from the back side of the gear. The pinion head height difference of only .008" is not very much but because of the larger gear ratio your contact has been effected. The 5.13:1 ratio will give you a nice addition to your low end torque just don't expect to get good gas mileage. You need to get that pattern off of the toe or you will just break these gears. Don't forget to break in the gearset once you get it all setup correctly.
DrivelineMaster, it would be on a deck grinding machine, at a machine shop, I used to have access to one but no longer. Turning the pinion could be done at Gear One, they are not to far from me.
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