GW's Biggest RIPOFF?! Or Hobby Innovation?
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- เผยแพร่เมื่อ 12 พ.ค. 2024
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0:00 Intro
1:12 Sprue Cutters
6:27 Hobby Knife
11:40 Mouldline Remover
14:58 Hobby Drill
18:32 Final Ratings and Thoughts - แนวปฏิบัติและการใช้ชีวิต
I got a starter set for warhammer and got a tiny moldline remover in it. I legitimately used it as a paint pot opener. It took me months to realise what it was actually for.
Works terrifically for digging droed paint out of the seals, trust me, dip it in iso alchohol and dry until damp, then go to town
oh my god now i know what i can use it for
I find it hilarious that you need a tool to open the pots anyways lol they always hurt my hands aswell
@@TheAncientOfRites Not all heroes wear capes. Thank you for that idea!
@@badpoulet No problem man, I‘ve been toying with starting up a channel and that‘s been my main idea for a premier video
Something to note: the old citadel drill had three sizes of bits included, a thinner shaft for better turning and had a reversible vice for the bits allowing you to use a greater variety of tools if you bought extra bits and the like.
Strangely, it seems like a downgrade more than anything. I'll probably throw the wowstick on my Christmas list this year instead of an "upgraded" hand drill.
The nice thing about the Wowstick is that it'smultifunction as well.
The wow stick is the absolute tits
Just got a Wowstick. Well worth it.
I like to magnetize, and the wowstick was a godsend... The only downside to it is it only fits their own drills.
@@Virakotxa I have other drillbits I use in the wow stick. You just can't really go much bigger than the standard set. I have a few smaller ones though.
You can always depend on GW to put the "no" in innovation.
Nice
🤣😂🤣😂🤣😂
Oh come on - their PRICES are innovative!
nice
Having a look at price conversions, gw will retail the clippers for about $50
Yeah I have no idea who they think will buy that. When I was a teen I got my hobby knife from a dollar store, and used a nail clipper for sprue cutting and super glue for building. Cuz there was no fucking way I could afford gw shit
@@drewbakka5265 they're mostly to scam people who are getting into the hobby. A lot of game stores around me don't carry cheaper brands, just GW, because they have limited space for miniature wargaming stuff and don't want to give up much space for things other than minis & paints. If a new person is naive and sees the hobby stuff in the game store, they might not realize that they can get all the things they need for better & cheaper elsewhere.
That, and GW fanboys will eat them up.
Exactly. GW have always been the Apple of model selling- artificially enclosed ecosystem designed to appeal to people who don't do their research and rely on adverts, and cultists who think the more expensive and branded something is, the better it is.
And stupid people will buy them.
@@peterclarke7240 I was thinking the exact thing, surprised they don’t have proprietary blades that you have to buy through GW haha
All four of these should cost about $50. Almost $50 each is insane…
why SHOULD all of these be $50??
@@insomniacbritgaming1632 Because they are vastly overpriced and other brands sell them way cheaper.
@@bertholdbach4959 still, you couldn't get them all for $50 unless you went for unnamed brands... even the Tamiya ones are like $35-40
@@insomniacbritgaming1632 Yes you can, i got mine from Army painter. Frame Cutter for 10.-, Hobby Knife for 9.- Drill for 11.- Tweezers for 9.- and who needs a modl remover. Where i live, the above shown Cutter will cost 46.-
Edit: The cheapest price i found for GW Cutters are 38.-
@@bertholdbach4959 sorry, but you cannot even closely compare $9 tweezers with $30-60 ones from Tamiya, God's Hand or Dspiae, those are on completely different levels, you can cut perfectly clean with no sign of cut, they are extremely shapp, it very often doesn't require any additional cleaning, never damages model if cut close to model.
I don't say those are "must", but they save a lot of time, but you pay premium
True for a hobby knife, not a huge deal, you can always buy any blade, just matter to find one where grip is fine for you
Also what really makes a difference for the drill are bits, expensive tungsten ones will save you a lot of time, but they are a few times more expensive and brittle
I HIGHLY reccomend the Japanese made "Engineer" brand cutters for fine details. Their standard side cutters are great and they have a couple of designed of low profile and angled cutters too.
They're designed for electronics and as such, I believe them to be much more rhobust than typical hobby cutters.
Also well priced!
I went to a hardware store specifically for craftsmen, bought a pair of snippers made for electricians. Sure, they are a bit more expensive that the average hobby snippers but they quality and lifetime of the tool is way longer. I still even use my grandpas snippers from the 50s when I need to snipp bigger bits.
I second this comment I have the NP-05 and they absolutely rock, I have the GW cutters, the army painter ones god knows how many generic ones. The engineer ones are great. as for more robust it would seem so I use mine for wire cutting as well and they are holding up perfect plastic won't hurt them at all.
Keep in mind that cutters that are real sharp are generally designed for soft materials up to thin copper wire. A more durable edge for thick or hard material will usually not be as sharp, but won't get nicked. Don't use your good detail ones on paper clips. I like my xuron and a cheap second one for the hard stuff. You can find good flush cutters for electronics for reasonable prices.
* robust
I mainly get my tools while in Japan ( cheaper and better quality) I'm still using nippers I bought 8 years ago ( only the spring broke but still cuts great) as well as my tamiya even though I have the GW cutter I barely use it preferring any of my other 7-8 others ,I prefer my micro files and sanding sticks over a seamline remover they get into places you can't reach ( especially folds in clothing on miniatures) as for the drills who doesn't have a few jeweler vices after years of being in the hobby? although I do prefer my tamiya drill these days for better control so unless GW actually make tools worth buying for an affordable price ( just like their kits )I'll keep to what I have and spend my money on what I need
I was waiting for a review of the mold line remover, it seemed too good to be true, sadly it was =(
Its a shame because the original tool was very functional. The last 2 have been too chunky
The originals tool tapered down to the width of a hobby knife blade so it didn't have such annoying fit issues.
1.bp.blogspot.com/-SBLKnC6FJwQ/Tq6EJ5VlL1I/AAAAAAAABp0/M89mwkli9OA/s1600/toolsgw.jpg
I like the Moldline remover because when I try it with a hobby knife, I somehow always find a way to carve too deep into the mini or cut myself (even if it use the non blade side)
Similar story for me. I find the mold line remover quick and easy for the majority of lines. I’ve got a blade for tricker ones. I just find it easier to move quick with the mole line remover.
One good thing about the mould line remover, it’s a perfect size to push in and spin round in the female parts of the push fit models, allowing you to assemble and unassemble with ease. Then when your ready just pop some glue in and push it together. This made painting push fits in sun assembly’s so easy!
I use the original GW mouldine remover literally every time I build models. One niche utility for it is that it's extremely good at knocking down and blending in mouldlines on metal models. It got me through a 150 model Steel Legion army and 50 model metal Sisters army in a way I don't think a dull hobby knife would have. It's certainly not a must-have general purpose tool, but it's one of those things you may be surprised by how often you find it useful.
The thing is, you don't need a dull blade. Look at the back of an x-acto blade. It's literally the same thing as a mold line remover - a straight, non-sharpened edge that is actually narrower than the citadel tool and can therefore fit in tighter areas of a model.
@@Dave_Creates except then I'd have to exert force on the sharp side of the blade with my thumb in order to scrape... but okay, you're not wrong. You can technically use a hobby knife for almost everything. You can use it instead of a clippers if you're sufficiently determined. You can use it instead of silicone sculpting tools if you're willing to coat it in corn starch solution every 15 seconds.
Hell, while we're at it, why even buy more than 4 colors of paint? Just use a Zorn palette for everything. Checkmate paint manufacturers and hello savings.
But... I value my time more than that, and hopefully so do you. I got this tool for 12 bucks a decade ago and use it almost every time I build a model. While I certainly could crowbar an Xacto knife into blending metal, I've done enough of this to be pretty confident that my way is better and worth the investment.
@@rossvolkmann1161 Look, I wasn't trying to be insulting. I have used the back of an xacto for years to remove mold lines; you really don't need much pressure. And I assure you, I don't need to hold it anywhere near the blade for precision. The grip behind it really does work. This isn't some sort of half-assed, jury rigged solution, so don't treat it like it is you insulting little asshole.
@@rossvolkmann1161 Damn, even taking into account inflation, that's pretty cheap by GW standards ^^
@@rossvolkmann1161 Are you willing to drink the kool-aid and pay $25 USD for the new mouldline remover?
The citadel knife having the blade tightener on the back instead of under your fingers also seems pretty nice. Ive handled some classic metal xacto knives where the collar might rotate under your fingers and loosen the blade while cutting. Looks like the citadel one will avoid this.
You should check out the excel knives. Their entire tightening mechanism is at the very back of the body of the pen shaft, and once you loosen the blade you can press on the back of it and it actually pops out the blade. The cost exactly the same as exacto brand knives and come with a very nice cap, they have a soft rubberized coating on the body without it being like plush or soft just it's something to cover the metal that feels nice in the hand, they're great. Maniac turned me on to them.
you can buy many other companies that do the same for less
@@fuzztsimmers3415 Yeah that seems to be the thing here.
I remember when I started painting (Middle Earth, but same idea), and I had an intro set from GW that came with a few brushes.
I also bought a no-name brush set for 20 bucks that used gopher hair, which is supposedly really good for painting. Performance was the same if not better, and I got like 10 brushes in all sizes including a dry-brush for the price of a couple of GW brushes.
The stuff isn't bad.
It's just massively overpriced.
Yeah tbh the combination of locking collar at the back, as well as the extension of the grip over the back of the blade has me *really* tempted to pick one of the GW cutters up, even with standard GW prices + Australia tax - so if anybody knows of a company that does a similar design for cheaper, please do let me know :D
I've got a few different blade handles I've got over the years if I'm being honest the best one I've got is more triangular shaped and slightly wider than a sharpy ( more ergonomically designed) and I've rarely had any of them loosen up on me 🤔 well only if I gotta change the blade but that's important lol
I used to be big into painting Warhammer way back in high school. Been wanting to get back into the hobby, but life and responsibilities always got in the way, as they tend to do, and I lot of painting tutorials here on youtube make the hobby feel intimidating rather than approachable. Your channel has given me the confidence to dive back into painting minis again after nearly 15 years. I just finished my first squad using many of the techniques you teach and I couldn't be happier with them! Thank you for all you do!
All of their tools, brushes, and paints/primers have always been great. What has to be weighed is the cost vs the value of the product. There are just so many other companies on their heels and we are the ones that benefit.
Always love scrolling at 3am and catching a ninjon upload 4 minutes after
Very much appreciate the time and effort you went through testing these, and giving your opinion on them. I wasn't planning on getting them, but now I know that there's nothing super stand out that should make me change my mind.
I really appreciate your no nonsense style of videos, intro doesn't overstay it's welcome, and you get right into the content in a clear and concise way. Good shit man!
Have to say I got randomly recommended your channel by the algorithm, and even though I don't play with miniatures anymore I love watching your work. The vibe fits exactly the kind of stuff I love to have on in the background to peek over at every now and then while I'm working, and your end results are amazing! If I ever get back into painting minis again, I'll definitely make use of your techniques!
If you scrape mold lines with the back of your exacto knife, the Citadel exacto knife may not work as well .
That's why you got to get the Citadel mould line scraper lol.
A tip on the drill - index finger goes on the spinning plunger while the second finger and thumb spins the barrel to create the drilling action. I've used a few of these types of pin vises before, that's the easiest way to use them.
And sharrrp drills
I may actually pick the mold line remover up even though I despise the current one when it is useful it is damn useful and this thing's got such a thin scraping blade it'll come in handy and far more situations
Good reviews, Jon.
One thing I love about the old mouldline remover is you can find on three Mekboy workshop table top, in universe. It's a fun detail.
Thanks for taking the time to review these against other equipment you use a lot, very useful
The best seam scraper I ever bought was the Sera Finisher. It has a thin, ceramic blade. I got it from a local hobby store and a quick search on amazon doesn't give any results, so I don't know where to purchase one nowadays.
I've got the mouldline remover (the old Citadel one) and I've found a good use for it is preparing large plastic terrain. It's not that much different from a hobby knife, but is nice to smooth over a large surface without risk of gouging into it at all with a knife
to avoid the issue of the hobby knife gouging into the plastic, I use the back edge of the blade. Since it's got a nice 90* angle, it does a great job at removing the flashing and lines!
I agree the mouldline remover has some situations where it performs better and faster then a dull knife or files/sandpaper. Though you get on perfectly well without it.
Highly informative video - thanks. Of course, the only one I have ordered is the mouldline remover because it sounded like something that would be really useful... off to see if I can get that changed!
I'm glad I saw this about the new GW hobby knife. I find myself putting a finger on the back of my Xacto blade for control sometimes, and every time I stop myself and go "Now THAT doesn't look good."
A knife designed for that would be nice. I don't know about all the other tools, but I'll probably pick the knife up.
The Monument knife is a much better and more reasonably prices option - imo. However in all fairness I haven't tried it - but the money they are most likely are going to charge...
Get a scalpel mate
I just use a good stanley knife, blade is solid and doesn't move, sharp and cheap to replace. What more can you want?
I got my knife from a gundam modeling kit and honestly it's fine
@@Ben-fk9ey Already said what they wanted lol, To have a finger rest on the back of the blade.
And Same. Everything else exists in a better capacity from other companies. The knife is the only one that seems to do something new and looks good.
14:58 I’ve thought about maybe taking mine to a grinder and try to thin the “blade” down a bit, but I do enjoy the heavier full tang feel of it compared to a dull hobby knife
Mould line removers are such a scam. I literally just use the back of my hobby knife. Already got it in my hand after I trimmed off the burrs, and it's virtually the same thing - a dull bit of metal - but much thinner, so it offers much more control.
I almost fell off my chair when you said something in praise of the GW knife. The moment soon passed!
I wonder if the mouldline remover would be useful on bigger models (eg airfix planes) with longer lines - but I suspect that most people will use a blunt knife, file, sand paper etc.
they're miracle workers for GW terrain specifically
Best kept secret to look for quality snippers are in nail care section of pharmacy or supply store for manicurists. Sharp AF and sometimes with odd angles for cutting those weird pieces out.
For moldline removal, what you need is a tiny triangular cabinet scraper. To make one, take the dull hobby knife and sharpen it wrong; you are looking to raise a huge burr on one side as you 'sharpen' it, much like a burnished edge on a cabinet scraper.
Been usung a standard set of craftsman snips from the local hardware store - other than the 'thinner' end, exactly the same as hobby clippers - for a lot less. And given the primary use being wire, etc - they cut real nice
Holy Crap $60 Canadian for the clippers from GW . . .
Awesome, been looking forward to someone doing a review on these! Still not replacing my Xuron Professional Sprue Cutters. Twenty bucks, so a much more reasonably priced option.
I appreciate your review. The one tool I had my eye on is the mould line remover because that is my least favourite part of the hobby. Like you I already own the old version and get limited use out of it, so I will be passing on this new revision.
I have the clippers from the Dark Vengeance box, they are exactly the same as those new ones, but without the spring or rubber covers. I ended up just dipping the handles in rubber and have been using those ever since what... 2013-14? Damn... this hobby is awesome lol.
The original mould line remover you have used to have a better tip then the thick one it currently has, I don't know when they made the switch to the thick one you have but the old one is pretty decent, I only know they switched it because I have both, same handle different J end.
Regarding moldlines I mostly use a simple scalpel blade holder with a nr. 15 blade, that's a small curved blade. Just a matter of habit. The only other scrapers (or moldline removers) which are specifically made for that task (and which I own) I would recommend are either any industrial triangular scraper of appropriate small size or the Revell 39083. Don't know if it's produced anymore, but it's really good. Regarding triangular scrapers and such: A good source for a lot of not really inexpensive but durable, precise and perfectly sized tools for miniatures (or small scale model building, where I come from) is any vendor of tools for goldsmiths. You can get any type of tool there, a lot aren't really cheap, but mostly designed for professional working with metal, they will last forever when using them for minis.
Thanks for the product previews Jon. They all seem fine... probably not enough to replace my current items but could be handy if I need a quick replacement
Just ordered a Slay the Gray sipper hoody. Love your channel. You definitely inspire me to just paint. Also love your podcast with Scott.
I've had success using the tip of a hobby knife to kind of ream out a pilot hole. You have to make sure the pilot hole diameter is at least as big as the point of the drill, otherwise you risk the drill walking off center.
Hi, great video I just want to say the mould line remover is designed for children and its what we are told to recommend to customers under 18 here in the UK as we can't sell them a knife, we fully know its worse than a knife but it's an alternative for younger hobbyists
I agree with your comment, however I also believe if the hobbyist is at a younger age (say 12) it could also be worth it as a parent or guardian to teach and show tool safety when doing the hobbies, or if someone is really worried about cuts, a durable enough glove could mean the difference from a poke to a deep cut kind of like training wheels until they get the hang of it.
@@canadianTeej no glove is hard enough to stop an xacto knife. Also would be a nightmare to remove mold lines with gloves. I’d never trust a kid or a teen with an xacto, those blades are sharp as surgeon tools, yes i’d teach security to a 12 yo son and give him a knife, but giving them a mildly dull blade is different from a death instrument like a hobby cutter, it can cause serious damages in instants and the most dangerous part is that you won’t feel that sharp blade untill it’s too late. Also an employee at a hobby store can’t take such a responsibility, so the mold lines removing tool comes into play
Free mold line remover: Back of exacto blade
Free MacGyver clipper: Toe nail clippers for fine cuts and use a plain side cutting pliers for big stuff and then follow up with the toe nail clippers. These are good for those starting out and on a budget.
I've seen short metal pin vices to use for drilling that have the spiny back without the weird ergonomics at both hardware stores and hobby train stores for likely much much cheaper than whatever citadel will be charging.
Love the clippers but hate the mold line remover. Great content 👍🏽💯
I've been in the hobby for nearly forty years and only a couple of years ago did I buy branded tools these were Xuron sprue and Etched brass cutters, totally brilliant all my other tools have been either Swan and Morton knifes or pliers and other bits bought from markets, toy fairs and model railway shows.
I love my wow stick, however.... one day I dropped it and the bit I used the most snapped. That is when I discovered there isn't anywhere to get replacement bits for it and they don't seem to offer replacement bits anywhere 😭
Best tools I've used to date: NT Cutter D-400 as a hobby knife, Tamiya Sharp Pointed Side Cutter and the NOGA SC-8000 as a mouldline scraper.
I have 2 exacto knives you have me the good pro tip of using the dull one as a mold line remover. I got a good sprue cutter with the 3d printer which is precise enough and the drill I agree should be motorized I have a manual drill I never use that - I have a dremel. Having one that turns slower seems like a great idea.
For sprue cutting, just use electrical flush cutters. They're dirt cheap, hard enough for copper, quite sharp, and thin.
The wow stick is such a great tool, so glad I saw the last video on it and immediately bought one, used it for every project so far.
The sidcutting snips they have sold for a while I am very fond of. Im an electrician and have loads of side cutters from various brands and for neatly, accurately cutting bits from sprews they are tip top. They dont look like the ones you have - they have brown metalic handles and a cris-cross metal patten on them.......and look quite funky. Id reccoment using cheaper snips for less accurate cuts and save the citadels for finer cutting in akward areas as they will slowly loose their sharpness over the years.
Good video, my 2 cents, I have the previous iteration of the ''Pro clippers'' and they are sharp as hell, and like no clippers I've ever used. The new one loos like they've put a plastic sleeve over the old version. The issue with both of these is the spring is internal and so impossible to replace so built in obsolescence right there. The knife removes the flaw that all exacto knives have of blade slip or over extension by simply moving the pivot point. It's a good tool. But a standard scalpel does this too for far less money (that's why Guy uses them). The rest are meh. Great video, who knew I'm a bloody too nerd 🤣 sorry this is a diatribe.
For any delicate parts, I'm old school and will score with a hobby knife to remove the bit. I do have army painter clippers for robust pieces.
The hobby knife was not worth the money, but I did discover if you flip the blade around backwards in it, the small overhang on the end keeps your thumb safe if you need to shave parts.
The mold line remover works...where it fits...which isn't many places. It does do a good job as a sculpting tool. I have since take a dremel to the end to make it thinner and narrower. Post modification it's been great.
Snips have already been figured out, and no one is going to build a better mousetrap than the Godhand SPN-120 nipper. Spend the $50 and buy these, you'll never regret it. Get a second set of cheap snips for utility if you want.
Was surprised the GW clippers didn’t seem better as they are single side clippers and the ones I have (dspaie single blade nipper) are amazing, like a knife thru butter. They are also cheaper than the GW rrp so will stick with them. For knife I use a surgical scalpel and Swann Morton blades. These are pretty cheap and so much sharper than a typical craft knife. I’ve never really found the mouldline removers better than the back of my scalpel blade. I did have a dedicated scraper tool that has a really slight blade - it’s alright but am too concerned about it damaging the model. For drills - use any hand drill but look for some pcb drill bits or carbide drill bits (same thing different names). These work much better than the other drills I’ve tried but they are fragile so break easily if not careful. It’s also real easy to go through straight through your finger with the smaller gauge ones as they are tiny and sharp - so safety first! Suffice to say I don’t think I’m gonna be picking any up. Was considering the drill and the cutters so your review was helpful for me. Might still give the cutters a go if I see them going a bit cheaper
for flush cutters what matters is the steel used. doesnt matter if the thing has a great cut out of the box but will dull quickly.
I use Micro Wire Snips, Flush Wire Cutters or some other names they go by but normally I can find a set for about $10-20 dollars as sprue cutters.
The mold line remover you hold is actually the gen 2. The one you are reviewing I guess would be gen 3. There was one that came with a medium stiff bristle brush back when Finecast first hit the street. I use it mostly for removing old paint and glue to repair models. And occasionally on removing mold lines on larger models. Though have since switched to using the back of my X-Acto knife to do that after watching one of your other videos. Short of purposefully dulling the blade, I have been using the same blade in my knife for years. So I am either not slaying enough gray or they built those blades really well.
For clippers you can get pretty cheap good ones. I use my partner's Godhand clippers, which they bought for Gunpla. They cut so much better than anything meant for us and I'm not even using the expensive ones, just the $10 (Canadian btw) ones from a local Gunpla store.
Been wanting to try some godhand clippers. I bought some dispiae ones that work wonderful.
That's the second revision of the mold line remover. There was one before it that I am aware of (and have). The business end is basically the same. It has a rubberized grip instead of the angled one.
you didn't show, the new mouldline remover also allows to trim the base rim...
the swivel of the drill goes on the inside of the index finger knuckle, not the palm
Thank you for the very informative video.
For your cutting knives, i recommend having one knife with a #10 curved blade on it instead of a #11. The curve allows you to cut at blade angles a #11's thin straight tip cant reach or a #11 would risk gouging (ie. positive ejection pin marks, mod seams). The blade being parallel with the tang also allows you to apply more of the edge when youre cutting using a pulling motion.
With a Hobby saw Blade, the exactobladeholder would be a really improvement for modelling. Even for modell conversions. Therefore it would be great, even with the way to hold this product.
Ive always wondered why noone seels exacto saw blades
@@nefanyo5788 there are 2 from Tamiya
The metal original pin Vise drill that Citadel came out with that matches your mold line remover the brownish color with silver I love it it works amazing compared to the new one that they came out with I agree with you that mechanism gets in the way to where their old design was more ergonomic
While find the Citadel hobby knife to be expensive, I have found the knife to be very ergonomic secures all widths of metal blades and the lip over the top of the blade allows you to put more pressure directly over the blade than behind it. This works especially well on thin #11 scalpel blades
I use Tamiya side cutters and a cheap pin vise. The only thing I disagree with is the mold line remover. I know I'm in the minority but it (the old Citadel one I've had for over a decade) just gives me a certain feels when scraping lines that no other tool has. It's almost akin to it being a "hot knife" versus others being cold. I don't know any other way to describe it but I'm just more comfortable with it versus the back of my Xacto blade or a dull blade. I do use sand paper and sticks as well for supplement and to get into the tiny spots that MLR can't reach.
Agreed 100%. Love my mold line remover
Exact same here, just switch to a tiny file for the places it can’t reach. Something so satisfying about the old Citadel ML remover.
I got my older model mouldline remover specifically to deal with terrain. They're much thicker there and theres so much of it compared to minis, and trying to use xacto blade backs or sandpaper to remove them was driving me insane. The old and thicc tool allowed my to just haphazardly scrape them into shape.
Tamiya's Fine Pin Vise D-R is perfect. 2 double sided chucks so you can really just choose whatever you like with maximum grip, spinny bit on the end, no batteries required.
The two things I like the mold line remover for are A: my kids not cutting themselves and B: it's less likely to damage rounded knee or shoulder pads than my hobby knife.
Other than that I don't hardly touch it
Back in the days when I was a regular at our gw store we used to nickname moldline remover to pocketmoney remover. You can imagine the staff didn't liked it that much xD
Interesting and informative many thanks.
One thing most people don't seem to consider with a hobby knife is the edge profile.
The profile of all the knives show is very accute with the side profile leading to the edge being flat.
I use a hand sharpened knife with a thicker blade. The angle of sharpining is not so accute and also importanly the profile is rounded.
With a flat profile you have much less crontol on the depth of cut than with a rounded profile also it is easer to use as a 'scraper' or a mould line remover.
The sprue cutter: look around for a "flush cutter" at any hardware store. Harbor Freight and WalMart sell perfectly serviceable options for under $5, and better ones for a bit more. The "action" varies from tool to tool, as does length. There's a perfect sprue snipper out there for everyone.
The best I've ever used is from Klein Tools. As I have big stumpy fingers, I went with a 5.5 inch flush cutter that works great. For my terrain crafting, I have several Harbor Freight and Hobby Lobby types that I use for everything from wire and plastic to little wooden sticks and corners of cardboard.
Gonna have to get a wowstick eventually. Don't think I'll bother with any citadel tools (except their water pot that things is low key neato)
now that you have admitted to not being a springologist, I doubt ill be coming here for my springology needs anymore.
I mostly Use the Mold Line Remover to get rid of those Tabs that are left over when I cut out Models. I don't have any of the new ones but still.
I really appreciate that they sent you these to review and you didn’t hide that, but we’re just so candid about the reality of them. I have those GW clippers and mini mold line remover that came in a starter paint kit someone got me and I can only use them for not precise work horse stuff. Have to pull out exacto and better clippers for fine details. So I already had an aversion to their products, but still have that iPhone thing where I’m inclined to like whatever is new and shiny they put out.
Here’s the funny thing and I hope someone from the company reads this; they got so close on a couple of these, but just didn’t do the proper testing to get there. If they had sent guys like you the prototype before production, you coulda told them that the thumb rest on wasn’t close enough or the pin vice tightener was in the way of the main use for the damn thing. Most all of us know about electric pin vices and even the nicer one you mentioned. Why would we pay just as much for less? Now the nicer clippers might be a go for me if I was in the market or the exacto with the overhang (which is the one nice quality of life clever innovation in all these), but the funny thing is, the only people who could appreciate the value in the good they did or the swing and misses are hobbyists who already have these tools, or a few too many of each. The whole product line is a bit of a lol when you zoom out.
It just seems like whoever the product development mgr is at GW has too many yes men around and not enough perspective in his development team.
They should have “play testers” for their products too before they hit production. And if they do have a QA team for this, the team lacks in the insights department.
Great review from you. Couldn’t be more mid from GW
I had hoped the drill was better designed. I can see it will not work for my hand. Good vid Ninjon, ❤👍
When you want to pay a bit more for Hobby supplies my favorite are Dspiae drill and nippers (one cheap and one expensive and first clip far away from the Model with the cheap on and then Clip the rest when the Model ist from the sprue) , for a hobby knife Ergo Kiwi 2.0 or fiskars the fast lock one.
I use a cordless screwdriver, with a collet, for my drilling purposes. It is lower speed, higher torque. It cost me about $36 CDN but I can use it for building other things too.
Way back in the day, the mold line remover was VERY useful for working on the early Reaper Bones miniatures. The material they were made out of would shred if you used sanding sticks or sanding paper on them. And it did not like being straight cut. Cutting through? No problem. Gentrly removing the mold lines? Not as much.
i use the mold line remover to enbiggen push fit holes on models that. fromo what i see the holes on most models are just smaller than the the line remover and it makes the push fit models easier to put together
Good points,.
The mold-line remover is thicker so it does not "chatter" if taking a harder cut.
I notice you automatically compensate for that by placing your finger on the side of the blade.
That pin vice was... not good.
Looking at a jeweler drill / spiral twist hand drill may be better.
For my Kill Teams I have not felt that I needed anything more than I got in my Army Painter beginner's toolbox; My point being that not everyone needs every shiny new thing. Just something to consider
I lost the tool but for mold line removal in delicate spots I used to have a dental tool that I got for modeling that scraped away mold lines really well. It was basically a spade or diamond shape with a rounded side and a flat side that made a nice edge for scrapping. It also let you pull to scrape instead of having to do the lateral motion you do with typical mold line removal tools or the dulled hobby blade. Someday I might get another one, the only downside to it is it wasn't cheap.
Honestly I love the drill I got from Army Painter. Gonna be sticking with it over this GW one. I *might* look into the clippers if anything from this lineup, but that's the only thing that catches my eye.
I just upgraded my generic amazon drill to the army painter one and agree that it's a nice upgrade.
I actually use the moldline tool from GW upside-down compared to how you’re doing it here. I brace against the thicker part of the “blade” with my thumb and use the edge of the flat part to scrape the moldlines. I have a “triangle scraper” for the really tight areas.
The knife goes for $56 Aud, roughly four times the price of your standard Hoovy Knife here in Australia
My Crescent Flush Cutters we're $17 and came with a matching fine-tipped neetle-nose pliers, $50 plastic-specific clippers is just insane.
After almost a year with no motivation to paint, it feels great to come back and to see that your videos are still as great as they have been in the past.
I recently got clippers looking almost exactly like GW's sprue cutter from a regular hardware store. 10 bugs (euros) or something. Only reason to by the Citadel stuff would be if you're too lazy to look somewhere else for something cheaper (and just as good).
agreed. If you need something with a more fine cut, try toe nail clippers. I often clip off right to the side with perfect cuts.
I don't do Warhammer, but I do dabble a bit in Gunpla. I'll say that while I don't have much experience with a lot of different tools, I have opinions on ones similar to those in this video, save for the pin vise/drill.
For mold lines and such, I just use a relatively cheap hobby/Exacto knife. Nothing fancy, no special blades, just a sharp piece of metal on a handle, preferably with a cover. If I don't have one on hand, a thin box cutter also sometimes works. Sandpaper never hurts to have around either. I personally have a super cheap 6-in-1 nail buffer thing, and it works pretty well.
As for nippers/cutters, I used to just use scissors, but in the past few years I've gotten myself a pair of God Hand nippers for about $30-40, and those things are amazing. They cut through runners like butter and have even been my go-to choice for thin wire for small sculpting armatures. I simply can't go back to scissors now, which is for the better. I don't have experience with any other brands, but God Hand have so well for so long now that I don't think I'll be switching any time soon either.
And hell, while we're here, paints. For general brushing, 89 cent Apple Barrel matte acrylics are great. They're super cheap and have a large range of colors, though special mention to Folk Art for having a bunch of other colors. For airbrushing, I've only ever used Tamiya, and they're just amazing. The small glass jars aren't my favorite since there's no easy way to get paint out other than an eyedropper, but hey, I'll take the mild inconvenience for a great quality paint. If you're using metallics, Apple Barrel is just ok, Tamiya are pretty good, but from videos I've seen, Gaia Color is amazing.
Hi guys. If you want to sharpen your clippers don’t take a stone or sharpener to the inside edge because you will ruin the geometry of your paired edges and increase the distance between those edges. Rather, with them closed polish the backside on some fine sandpaper. This will take any micro burs down and offer a better cut
Have to say that X-Acto knives scare the crap out of me now. I sliced my thumb open trying to cut the tab on the back of a Citadel paint pot that wouldn't stay open (I think we've all dealt with this at some point in our painting lives) and severed the nerve. They just honestly freak me out now.
I think the moldline remover would be good for someone young starting in the hobby if you were concerned they may cut themselves cleaning
Great video as always, but I had to chuckle at "I think is going to be appropriately priced". 50$ for clippers is beyond excessive. I wish GW would competitively price their tools with the competition. Surprised they don't have a $100 wet palette.
When I first saw the drill I thought that little silver knob may have been how you turn the collet- now that would be pretty damn handy!
I tried to check out the prices, but I get a "store under maintenance" message. Depending on the price, I'd consider going for the clipper and the exacto knife, I agree that the mold line remover is just a poorly conceived tool and the drill just looked so uncomfortable. If I absolutely had to buy one, I'd go for the knife, the fine control thanks to the blade guard is a good idea and I'd expect other companies to incorporate it in future models.
I look forward to the games workshop museum wax for affixing your models to a painting base.
I got a mini leather man and the inbuilt scissors are super fine and brilliant for cutting, plus the free fine tipped ones I got with the 3D printer and some mini wire snips I got for about £1 years ago…. Model brand specific ones are overpriced….
That wowstick is hands down the best hobby tool I've ever bought.