Review of a selection of 6L6 Power Tubes! Here's a link to the next 6L6 review: • Tube Lab #16 - Rolling... Link to Quality Vintage Tubes: valvesnmore.com
A cautionary note about using the metal enveloped 6l6 and 6V6 tubes, some amps use pin 1 as a tie point that may have screen voltage on it. Touch the energized tube and chassis and you could get a righteous shock.
Thankyou that is good info , I just got a 5U3C in the mail from the Ukraine , this they claim is an equivalent to the 5U4G tube , although I couldn't find a data spec sheet for the 5U3C tube , iam really curious to see if they are different in any was , voltage and currant watts etc ? Any Help would be great on the tube info
I have a 1954 AMI ROWE Juke box With a #145 amp iam using A pair of the Sovtek 6L6 WXT tubes now '' the match is great 352 volts DC plate voltage and 49 MA with aprox 17.245 Watts of output ''' sounding great '' I have a pair of new early 2005 vintage Sovtek 6L6 GB tubes and also a pair of new pair of Electro - Harmonix 6L6 GC EH What is the difference between these three types of tube choices '' ? I have not plugged in either of the GB or the GC EH tubes yet ' Can i Safely use these in my 17 watt amp ? This amp has a 5U4GB with two 12AU7 matched tubes' and one 12AX7 all strong and C C C quality . Having nearly 3000 45 rpm records i play some music almost everyday ' any good info would be very helpful ' ALSO I LOVE THE NEW OCTAL SOCKET SAVERS '' THANK YOU THANK YOU '' JIM
Those letters after the tube number ie 6L6 not g or gt (glass or glass tube) but the series letters GB series B, GC series C, wxt series wxt. Normally the later the letter the later the production spec and often it is a higher spec. Now if your amp is older and was designed for the 6L6g, then any 6L6 will work fine - ya. However if your amp is modern, and the spec sheet calls for a 6L6wxt, now you need to be careful about plugging an early series 6L6 in, it may not handle the operating point of the modern amp. This is a common issue for all tubes that had a long production run. So you can either check the data sheets and compare the operating specs to the max on the sheets, just plug a tube in and watch it carefully for a problem (and be prepared to lose one every once in a while) or stick to later production higher spec'd tubes.
Re-issue is one thing..........; using the original brand name is another........;; comparing those is irrelevant......... One of my favorites is the nos 7027A Sylvania.....
@@rahmanoff Soviet Russia was still Russia, regardless of it's geopolitical status as an independent state from 1917-1922 or as the largest and predominant republic of the "Soviet Union" from 1922-1989. It was Russia before, and is still Russia now. Russian citizens living in communist Russia never identified themselves as "soviets" except in conversations of a political nature, and even that was not even close to an absolute. Russians did, do, and likely always will speak Russian, not .... "soviet"..... "Soviet" is a Russian word that translates loosely to "workers council". Soviet is not, and never was a national identity. It was a political revolution, it was an oppressive form of governance in Russia and many other eastern European and Eurasian states/"republics", and it unfortunately still seems to be a historical wet dream for dorks like you. However, tubes that have origin in the era of the Soviet Union were still designed and manufactured in RUSSIA. Germany was still Germany under the governance of the Nationalsozialistische DEUTSCHE Arbeiterpartei, Russia was still Russia, even during the RUSSIAN Soviet Federative Socialist Republic era.
A cautionary note about using the metal enveloped 6l6 and 6V6 tubes, some amps use pin 1 as a tie point that may have screen voltage on it. Touch the energized tube and chassis and you could get a righteous shock.
The 6P3S sounds more like a 6L6G to me which is not surprising given that Russians used RCA-built 6L6 tooling to make those.
Thankyou that is good info , I just got a 5U3C in the mail from the Ukraine , this they claim is an equivalent to the 5U4G tube , although I couldn't find a data spec sheet for the 5U3C tube , iam really curious to see if they are different in any was , voltage and currant watts etc ? Any Help would be great on the tube info
I have a 1954 AMI ROWE Juke box With a #145 amp iam using A pair of the Sovtek 6L6 WXT tubes now '' the match is great 352 volts DC plate voltage and 49 MA with aprox 17.245 Watts of output ''' sounding great '' I have a pair of new early 2005 vintage Sovtek 6L6 GB tubes and also a pair of new pair of Electro - Harmonix 6L6 GC EH What is the difference between these three types of tube choices '' ? I have not plugged in either of the GB or the GC EH tubes yet ' Can i Safely use these in my 17 watt amp ? This amp has a 5U4GB with two 12AU7 matched tubes' and one 12AX7 all strong and C C C quality . Having nearly 3000 45 rpm records i play some music almost everyday ' any good info would be very helpful ' ALSO I LOVE THE NEW OCTAL SOCKET SAVERS '' THANK YOU THANK YOU '' JIM
Those letters after the tube number ie 6L6 not g or gt (glass or glass tube) but the series letters GB series B, GC series C, wxt series wxt. Normally the later the letter the later the production spec and often it is a higher spec. Now if your amp is older and was designed for the 6L6g, then any 6L6 will work fine - ya. However if your amp is modern, and the spec sheet calls for a 6L6wxt, now you need to be careful about plugging an early series 6L6 in, it may not handle the operating point of the modern amp. This is a common issue for all tubes that had a long production run. So you can either check the data sheets and compare the operating specs to the max on the sheets, just plug a tube in and watch it carefully for a problem (and be prepared to lose one every once in a while) or stick to later production higher spec'd tubes.
Can a 6L6 be used in place of a 1614 vacuum tube in a Johnson Viking Ranger ham radio?
Re-issue is one thing..........;
using the original brand name is another........;;
comparing those is irrelevant.........
One of my favorites is the nos 7027A Sylvania.....
6P3 - it is not a ruzzian, it is a soviet tube. Otherwise, very nice video.
You don't know the date of production so you can't know that, but they are certainly made in factories in nowadays Russia.
@@manintheboxxxX 6P3 type tube was primary made in soviet times. Actual date for tube on video is 1979. It is no ruzzian, it is soviet.
@@rahmanoff Whatever, they kept making them in the same factories in Russia in 90's.
@@manintheboxxxX if they do it, tube not became ruzzian. It is still soviet.
@@rahmanoff Soviet Russia was still Russia, regardless of it's geopolitical status as an independent state from 1917-1922 or as the largest and predominant republic of the "Soviet Union" from 1922-1989. It was Russia before, and is still Russia now. Russian citizens living in communist Russia never identified themselves as "soviets" except in conversations of a political nature, and even that was not even close to an absolute. Russians did, do, and likely always will speak Russian, not .... "soviet"..... "Soviet" is a Russian word that translates loosely to "workers council". Soviet is not, and never was a national identity. It was a political revolution, it was an oppressive form of governance in Russia and many other eastern European and Eurasian states/"republics", and it unfortunately still seems to be a historical wet dream for dorks like you. However, tubes that have origin in the era of the Soviet Union were still designed and manufactured in RUSSIA. Germany was still Germany under the governance of the Nationalsozialistische DEUTSCHE Arbeiterpartei, Russia was still Russia, even during the RUSSIAN Soviet Federative Socialist Republic era.
Bm