I just realised that the norwegian word for glue is Lim, and that the etymology comes from lime. (Which is related to slime, and has to do with stickiness and smearing) The word glue is related to the norwegian "klister" (more obvious if you try to transform it gradually. glueister, klueister). We only use that word for sticky adhesives, not true glues.
We have lots of hardwood here in Wisconsin. We even have hardwood pallets and I use the wood to cook with. So that is where I get hardwood ashes. For the deerhides I have turn d to buckskin, I use about four handfuls to about five gallons of water. 5-10 gallons of water seems to be enough for a deer hide. Just adding my two cents worth. Thanks for the video! I know some SCA friends who might like your videos, and I am going to share links :)
Great video. I've watched it a few times now. At some point, I swear you had a video that shows your lime pit, but I'm not finding it. Maybe I imagined it? How does one make a proper lime pit?
when using lime, ph is self regulating. If you want to use lye or something else, you can look up info on proportions used for dehairing hides for tanning. You could also look up the ph of lime water, which is fully saturated solution. it changes with temp though. s
@@SkillCult Watching your video I thought the process was a weakened version of alkaline hydrolysis where you completely dissolve organic tissue at pH14 with either potassium hydroxide or sodium hydroxide but now I realize it's lime not lye. My first batch of glue is in the gelatin state right now. I didn't need this step because I used dog toy rawhide but the information is useful and I may try this in the future.
Yeah, it is less reliable and weaker usually. A good strategy is start with a sort of batter of wood ashes, like pancake batter. If the skin doesn't respond and swell up within a couple of days, you'll have to strengthen it. You can either drip out the liquid from the ash water solution and cook it to concentrate, or drip it out and add more ashes. Or just drip it to start with and if the liquid isn't strong enough, add a new batch of ash and drip again. It's less messy to work just with the liquid and not ash.
@@SkillCult I was about to ask the same question. I have a whole lot of wood ash. Il try it out one day if I ever get a hide. me and my dad tanned multiple bears. I dont know if we missed steps or anything but they came out nice. We fleshed them, added salt to dry them for a few days, he says it helps to burn any fat that might be left anywhere. And then let them sit in a bucket of alum for a few days. Them when we take them out we work them as soft as possible but sometimes they stay stiff alittle...? He always mentions how he would want a soft hide " like a sock". Im pretty sure we are doing something wrong or missing a step. Whats your opinion?
Does liming have a bleaching effect? I have a goat rawhide that is not nearly as opaque or white as the one in this video. Would liming it give this opaque near-white?
Probably.l Not sure if it's actual bleaching, or just puffing open the hide structure so that it reacts to light differently. Could very well be actual bleaching though. Iv'e seen inked paper bleached by lime.
I often do. It's pretty easy. You just put some poo in a bucket with water and let it ferment, then put the skin in. It's not as bad as it sounds, but I've never used dog poo, which was used a lot as well. My understanding is that bird acts more slowly and gently while dog works fast and is more softening. One book said they used bird on thick skins because it could penetrate the skin slowly without damaging it, and dog was used to condition and soften thinner skins in a short time. If you want a skin that is stiffer, you can skip it. It can make skins more pliable and soft if you want them that way.
$34 currently www.amazon.com/Buckskin-Ancient-Braintanning-Steven-Edholm/dp/0965496554/ref=sr_1_2?s=books&ie=UTF8&qid=1523472957&sr=1-2&refinements=p_27%3ASteven+Edholm
I just realised that the norwegian word for glue is Lim, and that the etymology comes from lime.
(Which is related to slime, and has to do with stickiness and smearing)
The word glue is related to the norwegian "klister" (more obvious if you try to transform it gradually. glueister, klueister). We only use that word for sticky adhesives, not true glues.
We have lots of hardwood here in Wisconsin. We even have hardwood pallets and I use the wood to cook with. So that is where I get hardwood ashes. For the deerhides I have turn d to buckskin, I use about four handfuls to about five gallons of water. 5-10 gallons of water seems to be enough for a deer hide. Just adding my two cents worth. Thanks for the video! I know some SCA friends who might like your videos, and I am going to share links :)
Thanks, sharing is caring! :)
I just put 50 g of sinew scraps in to the lye solution ( 1l : 80g NaOH ) and it all dissolved in 15 min. I guess it can be too strong for sinew.
Lime isn't very strong. Lye is much stronger. I've done the same thing.
Great video. I've watched it a few times now. At some point, I swear you had a video that shows your lime pit, but I'm not finding it. Maybe I imagined it?
How does one make a proper lime pit?
I don't have anything on that. I think any kind of masonry that doesnt' leak or allow water to leak in. the Lime Book might have something.
@@SkillCult definitely my imagination, then. 😂
Is this CaO or Ca(OH)2 for Liming process?
Well the first becomes the latter in water.
Was hoping their would be specific PH you hit when doing this.
when using lime, ph is self regulating. If you want to use lye or something else, you can look up info on proportions used for dehairing hides for tanning. You could also look up the ph of lime water, which is fully saturated solution. it changes with temp though. s
@@SkillCult Watching your video I thought the process was a weakened version of alkaline hydrolysis where you completely dissolve organic tissue at pH14 with either potassium hydroxide or sodium hydroxide but now I realize it's lime not lye.
My first batch of glue is in the gelatin state right now. I didn't need this step because I used dog toy rawhide but the information is useful and I may try this in the future.
good and important information. thanks
Thanks for sharing Your skills and experience! So, as you mentioned I can use wood ashes instead of lime? I have pretty much of it.
Yeah, it is less reliable and weaker usually. A good strategy is start with a sort of batter of wood ashes, like pancake batter. If the skin doesn't respond and swell up within a couple of days, you'll have to strengthen it. You can either drip out the liquid from the ash water solution and cook it to concentrate, or drip it out and add more ashes. Or just drip it to start with and if the liquid isn't strong enough, add a new batch of ash and drip again. It's less messy to work just with the liquid and not ash.
@@SkillCult I was about to ask the same question. I have a whole lot of wood ash. Il try it out one day if I ever get a hide.
me and my dad tanned multiple bears. I dont know if we missed steps or anything but they came out nice.
We fleshed them, added salt to dry them for a few days, he says it helps to burn any fat that might be left anywhere. And then let them sit in a bucket of alum for a few days. Them when we take them out we work them as soft as possible but sometimes they stay stiff alittle...? He always mentions how he would want a soft hide " like a sock". Im pretty sure we are doing something wrong or missing a step. Whats your opinion?
Does liming have a bleaching effect? I have a goat rawhide that is not nearly as opaque or white as the one in this video. Would liming it give this opaque near-white?
Probably.l Not sure if it's actual bleaching, or just puffing open the hide structure so that it reacts to light differently. Could very well be actual bleaching though. Iv'e seen inked paper bleached by lime.
Do u use bird poop after u lime ur hide i see a lot of old tanner places use it? And what ur thought on it??
I often do. It's pretty easy. You just put some poo in a bucket with water and let it ferment, then put the skin in. It's not as bad as it sounds, but I've never used dog poo, which was used a lot as well. My understanding is that bird acts more slowly and gently while dog works fast and is more softening. One book said they used bird on thick skins because it could penetrate the skin slowly without damaging it, and dog was used to condition and soften thinner skins in a short time. If you want a skin that is stiffer, you can skip it. It can make skins more pliable and soft if you want them that way.
Will the poop harm the hair if i leave it on??
@@rjtell6869 I think so. I wouldn't use it if you keep the hair.
It will probably make the hair fall out.
@@SkillCult how long does poo take to ferment?
If i have gelatin chips already dried, how can i apply them to woods. Do i have to melt them or use hot water? please somebody tell me?
soak in warm or cold water until swelled, then heat gently. Use while hot.
@@SkillCult thanks
Have you considered exploring brain tanning?
That’s a good idea. I think I’ll go back in time 20 years and write a book about it. Here ya go. :)
amzn.to/2lf1V3d
That's how I started out in tanning. Learned from students of Jim Riggs and Jim and Melvin Beatty and others.
$1600 for a paperback!? Jesus man! I'm in the wrong business.
$34 currently
www.amazon.com/Buckskin-Ancient-Braintanning-Steven-Edholm/dp/0965496554/ref=sr_1_2?s=books&ie=UTF8&qid=1523472957&sr=1-2&refinements=p_27%3ASteven+Edholm