Hi Dave, I bought one of your Bronze Lever caps for my scrub plane , i must say the quality is outstanding, best wishes from the vintage carpenter from England to you and your family, keep up the amazing work.
Kinda nice. I’ve had to refurbish a number of fives and sevens. As well as threes, fours and an eight. One thing everybody misses and is important is that cast iron is porous. It soaks up fluids like a sponge and keeps them. Using a propane torch, low flame, heat up cast iron till you see those fluids bleed out. If it sparks it’s brake fluid. Wipe with paper towel repeat as nessary across all of plane. I use candle wax to seal them after. Heat up cast iron and melt wax on for full width finish while warm it soaks in just enough. First one or two passes once it’s cool will remove the wax but keeps the sole rust free and slippery for a long time. Works great before you paint to do that as paint doesn’t stick to water or oil very well.
@@DaveCorinth try it on a fresh plane after bleeding junk out of cast iron. Lasts a really long time. My “newest” five scrub plane I haven’t (melted)waxed, just bled. Have to (cold)wax it a few times a week. My regular five I haven’t waxed in about five years of use and still runs smooth. Note blade up a plane should flow across with no resistance. Otherwise your just waiting your energy and time planing.
I bet there are a lot of Veritas scrub plane owner that would love a solid cap like yours. I made a new one out of 5mm stainless with a small bend. The problem with "you don't have to tighten it much" is that as soon as you hit a knot the blade moves back. Add some wax or other rust protection and it is no mystery why the Veritas bend or the Stanley crack. You would not be surprised over how many people who think that the surface is from some kind of carving or axe on their old house. Also the problem with a converted #4 is the width to the small center of the blade that cuts. It makes it hard to knock off protruding corners on bulging surfaces. And of courser the scrub is lighter simpler and easier to change blade after hitting a nail. I really enjoy your videos and work by the by.
I purposefully put small set screws on these so they can be over tightened. Especially on the type one bodies that don’t have a “T” shaped post to support the iron. But you are right about hitting a knot, been there done that and it certainly moves the iron. I’d say a lot of caps were cracked this way. Great comment and thanks for watching.
D, nice job and result. Very good editing and flow of dialogue, organized, the lighting is complimentary, and your commentary works well as you progress through the different steps. Some shades of my memory metal shop and wood shop classes in high school. A solid YT instructional. Well done sir!!
Another amazing video, Dave! ❤ Watching your content is always worth it. Learn so much. Combined with you actually making your own parts. This could almost be considered........ 😮😊😂
Hey Dave, I have a question for you. I recently purchased a Bedrock 606 with plans to make it my user. However, there are little chips out of the frog near the opening of the mouth. We're talking about a little less than 1mm into the frog. Can I file it back 1mm and then thin the front of the frog by lapping it to get it back to its original thickness near the opening of the mouth? I hope that makes sense, haha. Thanks!
@@chris-C8 honestly, I wouldn’t mess with it. I’ve had a few bedrocks in my day that have the tip of the frog chipped, and it will not effect the use at all. I don’t recommend trying to lap it down to remove the chips, if it’s a flat side bedrock that could mess with the geometry of the pins applying pressure.
I spotted your lever caps on eBay. Is delivery to Uk doable for you? I came across a Stanley 40 1/2 for super cheap a few months ago which is missing the cap. Then this video pops up. Like destiny. The planes are so rare in UK so spares are impossible
They are definitely not. Often I find them made of Chestnut with a veneer of oak or mahogany ect….. but I keep the screws and other parts as well. Even the old poplar is good for projects that you might want to paint. I look for the upright grands!
Very nice work, Dave. One question for you. Were these planes originally japaned on the sides, like you did with yours? Its very different from the standard bench plane soles.
Yes, Stanley japanned the sides of the scrub planes, they were never ground! Often I’ll find one with owners initials, or a number etched on the sides, and that’s when I will surface the sides just like a standard bench plane. Thanks for watching!
Just received #40 in fair shape from Michael Jenks and have started to restore. Thanks for your video I gained some much-needed insights.
Mr Jenks is a great guy, and of course I’m glad the video was helpful!
The best hand plane TH-cam channel! I always learn so much from every video.
Thank you very much, I’ll keep making them.
David, outstanding knowledge, know-how and instruction. Thanks very much for sharing. Regards Justin
Glad you enjoyed it
Hi Dave, I bought one of your Bronze Lever caps for my scrub plane , i must say the quality is outstanding, best wishes from the vintage carpenter from England to you and your family, keep up the amazing work.
Thank you sir, glad you like the cap.
That is the most beautiful No 40 out there. Great work!
Thank you very much.
Nice! I've got one of these that's in good shape. Bought it years ago for something like $20. I rarely use it but it's good to have when you need it.
Beautiful plane, great job
12:16 I didn’t know Stew Mac was short for Stewart MacDonald! They have great tools. Expensive but great.
I tinkered with acoustic guitars a few years ago and still do some small repairs here and there. This files they have are outstanding.
Awesome job, man. It was really cool watching you make one of those lever caps. The one I purchased from you has been working like a champ.
I’m going to make another video just on the screw cap, for the 40 and 40 1/2.
Dude this channel is amazing you literally make the original caps too
Thank you, I try to make as much stuff that I can’t find or that is hard to find in my shop. It’s a lot of fun to figure the processes out.
You’re welcome my friend, it’s worth it for these fantastic videos!
I assure you it will get used and of course on antique tools of course.
Kinda nice. I’ve had to refurbish a number of fives and sevens. As well as threes, fours and an eight. One thing everybody misses and is important is that cast iron is porous. It soaks up fluids like a sponge and keeps them.
Using a propane torch, low flame, heat up cast iron till you see those fluids bleed out. If it sparks it’s brake fluid. Wipe with paper towel repeat as nessary across all of plane. I use candle wax to seal them after. Heat up cast iron and melt wax on for full width finish while warm it soaks in just enough. First one or two passes once it’s cool will remove the wax but keeps the sole rust free and slippery for a long time. Works great before you paint to do that as paint doesn’t stick to water or oil very well.
Never tried the candle wax, but I could certainly see how that would work.
@@DaveCorinth try it on a fresh plane after bleeding junk out of cast iron. Lasts a really long time. My “newest” five scrub plane I haven’t (melted)waxed, just bled. Have to (cold)wax it a few times a week. My regular five I haven’t waxed in about five years of use and still runs smooth.
Note blade up a plane should flow across with no resistance. Otherwise your just waiting your energy and time planing.
Great job and very interesting
That cap is beautiful! Holy guacamole 🥑 you're talented
Thank you very much!
That’s a very impressive set of skills you have there, David. Awesome video!
I bet there are a lot of Veritas scrub plane owner that would love a solid cap like yours.
I made a new one out of 5mm stainless with a small bend.
The problem with "you don't have to tighten it much" is that as soon as you hit a knot the blade moves back.
Add some wax or other rust protection and it is no mystery why the Veritas bend or the Stanley crack.
You would not be surprised over how many people who think that the surface is from some kind of carving or axe
on their old house.
Also the problem with a converted #4 is the width to the small center of the blade that cuts.
It makes it hard to knock off protruding corners on bulging surfaces.
And of courser the scrub is lighter simpler and easier to change blade after hitting a nail.
I really enjoy your videos and work by the by.
I purposefully put small set screws on these so they can be over tightened. Especially on the type one bodies that don’t have a “T” shaped post to support the iron. But you are right about hitting a knot, been there done that and it certainly moves the iron. I’d say a lot of caps were cracked this way. Great comment and thanks for watching.
D, nice job and result. Very good editing and flow of dialogue, organized, the lighting is complimentary, and your commentary works well as you progress through the different steps. Some shades of my memory metal shop and wood shop classes in high school. A solid YT instructional. Well done sir!!
Much appreciated!
Nice work
Bravo Dave…!
Another great video. Thanks! BTW You an consolidate your wax by heating it. hat would also let you pour the remains of that can into your new can.
Great idea! My old can is just about empty, I’ll try it for sure. Thanks!
Another amazing video, Dave! ❤
Watching your content is always worth it. Learn so much. Combined with you actually making your own parts. This could almost be considered........ 😮😊😂
looks great!
Great job better than original
As usual a quality video chock full of top notch info. Thank you much and have a LARGE DAY INDEED!
Very nice work
Thank you, they are a lot of fun to bring back to life.
Super!!
Hey Dave, I have a question for you. I recently purchased a Bedrock 606 with plans to make it my user. However, there are little chips out of the frog near the opening of the mouth. We're talking about a little less than 1mm into the frog. Can I file it back 1mm and then thin the front of the frog by lapping it to get it back to its original thickness near the opening of the mouth? I hope that makes sense, haha. Thanks!
If it’s that small I would worry about it, as far as use it won’t effect the plane at all. Are the chips on the frog or the mouth opening?
@@DaveCorinth Hey Dave, thanks for the reply! The chips are on the frog near the thinnest part at the front.
@@chris-C8 honestly, I wouldn’t mess with it. I’ve had a few bedrocks in my day that have the tip of the frog chipped, and it will not effect the use at all. I don’t recommend trying to lap it down to remove the chips, if it’s a flat side bedrock that could mess with the geometry of the pins applying pressure.
@@DaveCorinth Thanks for the help Dave, I truly appreciate it! Can't wait for the next video.
I spotted your lever caps on eBay. Is delivery to Uk doable for you?
I came across a Stanley 40 1/2 for super cheap a few months ago which is missing the cap. Then this video pops up. Like destiny.
The planes are so rare in UK so spares are impossible
Yes I sell them on EBay and international shipping is available. I’ve sent several to the UK.
Sorry Dave, old pianos are not created equal. I took apart an old upright piano - I it was mostly poplar. I did get some good wood though.
A little good wood - but it was mostly moldy poplar. Great video though; learned a lot.
They are definitely not. Often I find them made of Chestnut with a veneer of oak or mahogany ect….. but I keep the screws and other parts as well. Even the old poplar is good for projects that you might want to paint. I look for the upright grands!
@@DaveCorinth I got a little beech, birch & douglas fir & old hardware.
Your flask is empty! What a drag... How do you cope?
I’ll have to make a plaque with that on there….love it
Very nice work, Dave. One question for you. Were these planes originally japaned on the sides, like you did with yours? Its very different from the standard bench plane soles.
Yes, Stanley japanned the sides of the scrub planes, they were never ground! Often I’ll find one with owners initials, or a number etched on the sides, and that’s when I will surface the sides just like a standard bench plane. Thanks for watching!
Nice work