The problem is, what you showing on 11:38, where you put the silicone oil is just a place for screw. That hole ending inside the part. The solution is: need to put silicone oil outside this part, and it will be work. Trust me, last weekend I took it to pieces my turntable, and I saw the mechanism.
@@dennis2494oh wow, never would’ve figures this out. I have the turntable for 2 months now using it literally hours long daily. Today I noticed how it’s going down faster than before. I will try this once it will fall like a rock. Any idea how much needs to be put on each side of the part?
I saw this come up in my feed earlier today and I thought to myself I HAVE to watch this after work tonight! I just got done placing my order for this fluid kit. My turntable needs this BAD!!! My tonearm drops with such force that it BOUNCES when it hits the record. It's been that way since I bought it several years ago. I bought the turntable used from eBay and am guessing that could have been the reason someone may have gotten rid of it. I always have to lower the cuing lever very slowly, now thanks to you Recordology, I won't have to do that anymore! Thank you!!!!!!!
Thank you so much for this video!!! I have the same TT with the same issue. It started a while ago, to the point where not only did it thud down, it would skip the first few seconds of the first track. I had searched online a few times for solutions, but I must not have been looking in the right places as I hadn't found anything. I simply resigned myself to just doing it manually every time. But the instant I saw this video, I bought the fluid kit and it works perfectly now! Thank you so much!
Enjoyed the video, but I think that screw may be for height adjustment. The fluid you added may not have gone where it needed to go. I noticed the arm didn’t rise as high as it should when you lifted the lever after reassembly. I look forward to seeing a follow-up on this one.
I'd love to hear what you like better about the LP3 vs. the Fluance RT85 specifically. It's interesting that as much as you liked the Fluance on initial setup, it didn't end up replacing your LP3.
Recently, I took my Technics sl-qd2 out of the closet after around 30 years of non-use. It still had power but the tonearm was behaving badly. I'd cue it down and it would go back to rest position. I fiddled with some screws and still couldn't get it right. Found a store about 25 miles away that said I could bring it in. The tt sat for a few days and I gave it one more try after getting a user manual off ebay. Adjusted some other screws and miraculously, it worked! Got a new stylus and ordered the Beatles white album, stereo remix. All my old albums are in terrible condition. Well, the sound is incredible! I forgot how warm the sound is compared to cd's. That screw you took out is the tonearm height adjustment on my tt. The tonearm on mine drops very smoothly. I'm sure the silicone grease must be dried up. I'm not sure if I want to spend the money to have the tt totally opened up and cleaned and re-greased, or buy a new one. But for now I'm just enjoying listening to it and I ordered another new album, remastered Aqualung. Can't wait to hear it!
I found this to be a fun video. I've been collecting records since 2015 (wow, has it really been 7 years already?!) and I've honestly never known how to actually replace the damping fluid. I always knew it was a thing that needed to be done eventually but I've never had to do it. Now I'll know the basic idea of what needs to be done when I eventually need to replace the fluid on my RT85.
I’m pleased I seen your video as I’ve saw this performed on other models but not the LP-3, which is what I’ve got also. It’s reassuring to know how easy it is to access and deposit the fluid. Much appreciated.
Hey. thank you for the video, its the proof I needed that my tonearm will work, while I am waiting the damping fluid I tried several oils and none did a difference so I was worried, cheers
Thanks for the link, I have a BSR 4-speed I really need to get around to doing this to but have been putting it off since its not one of my main decks and its much less of an issue when its setting down the arm on automatic; same as yours.
my toshiba had the problem slightly more than a year after i got it so i just coated the rod with petroleum jelly every now and then and it worked fine
Thanks for the video. I seemed to have lost the little spring that fits into the hole. Can I still follow through with the process or if not, where might I get another spring. I tried it once without the spring, and the tonearm seemed to work better. Advice?
I have the same turntable and the same problem. Mine comes down so fast that the stylus skids across the first couple of grooves on the record.. I ordered some lube. Thanks for the enlightenment.
You've left the landing light on ..! In Europe the landing is the corridor at the top of the stairs ...if you are in a single storey building you've just left the corridor light on or the en suite light .. excellent as always ..
I had the same problem with my 1976 vintage Pioneer PL530. That unit has the retaining screw radially threaded into the side of the piston, not axially, like yours. I believe the screw on yours is solely for holding the cuing arm onto the piston (as is mine). The damping fluid should be applied to the sides of the piston shaft, not into the threaded screw hole. I can only surmise (from your narrative) that you put so much into the screw hole that enough of it flowed onto the piston shaft to accomplish the repair. If you were to remove the piston shaft (which is much more complicated on most turntables), you would see a groove around it's circumference, about midway down. That groove is the actual damping fluid reservoir. Correct service procedure should include cleaning the old fluid out before applying the new stuff. In my case, I simply applied the fluid liberally to the exposed part of the shaft's side, equally around it's circumference , and "exercised" the cueing mechanism repeatedly, to work the fluid down along the shaft's length. This was messy, and took several repetitions, cleaning the excess with a foam swab between each application (I didn't want any cotton fibers to get in there). Eventually, I got the cueing speed even slower than it was originally.
tonybrozumato hit the nail on the head. Having re-damped many tonearms on many different makes and models of vintage tables that I have refurbished myself, his description fits the bill. I would like to add that manual tables allow the easiet access under the hood to the piston/cylinder for proper silicone application as there is much less disassembly of automation parts in order to remove the cylinder and access the groove where the silicone should actually be applied. This application from above as seen in the vid is often the only alternative in fully automatic turntables due to the complexity of disassembly and then reassembly of the automation parts.
Hi have a Pioneer F117D fully automated T/T, however on auto return the tone arm on lifting does an up down motion. What could be the reasons & solution ? Thnx
thanks for this video. needed it. i also have the lp3 and love it. replaced the at91r with the at vm95c e and en. replaced the rubber mat with arylic one and went line level with the ifi phono preamp to my marantz nr1200. beautiful sound. this TT replaced a vintage manual pioneer pl71. but getter older and my hands may become unsteady. lol. use the various stylus for various albums, c for mono and older records, e for good to excellent and en for my near mint albums. tone arm on TT responses well to the various stylus. im happy with it and your reviews, updates and upkeep on the lp3 help a lot. keep up the good work. appreciate it.
No, but my friend had the tonearm on his AiO Memorex branded unit lift up midway through the first song (we were transferring his Bob Welch “French Kiss” album to his computer) and not drop even after returning to the resting area.
I’ve never seen this before, despite watching several vinyl channels. And I agree that the LP3 should have a strobe on it. That’s why I like your channel-you show stuff that nobody else will!!!
No need for a strobe in this day and age. Just use your cell phone and an RPM app. Adjust the speed if necessary using the corresponding potentiometers under the hood.
None of my 40 year old Technics players exhibit this affect. It seems to be a problem with AT. My ATLP-120XUSB has the same problem, but i don't use the cuing that much.
Update: It didn't work. For me the oil just sat on the surface and didn't seep into the piston. I had to take apart the turntable - remove the back plate and disassemble the piston, apply oil directly onto the cavety of the brass shaft. Putting it back together was a nightmare but it worked
należy nasmarować opadający (mosiężny najczęściej) trzpień i ramię opada prawidłowo. Smar można zamówić w internecie najcześciej w dozowniku w postaci strzykawki.
Curious what viscosity oil did you went with? I see 100, 300, and 500 viscosities online. Not sure what the units are, but I think you know what I'm asking. My arm/cartridge may be lower mass than your AT. So, I'm thinking of going with 100 viscosity.
The white LP3 is not available now. Great video! I have an ION Profile that has the same issue so I will get some of that and try it out! Thanks for the info.
The one of my LP 120 that I bought used drops like a rock. But I don't care, because I'm old school. I only use that particular turntable for 78 and 45s and rough 33s. I come from the days when you manually dropped your needle all the time anyway.
AT has a lot of problems with their damping fluid. I have an AT LP 120XUSB that has the same issue. I watched Vinyl Talk with Tavis several times. I have fluid, a small screwdriver and a syringe but I am scared to attempt the fix.
@@Recordology Thanks! I just got a Toshiba SR-A200 that has a thin straight tonearm . Not flimsy by any means, but seems lighter than the one on the AT-LP3, so I think I'll get the 200k cst damping fluid. Any thoughts?
My Sony PS-LX300usb has this problem. Drops hard enough to bounce. As it has a cuing button instead of a lever, its something of a nuisance to manage the descent. Edit: you don’t have to call it a syringe. You could call it a piston.
Mr record ology. Looks like you’re counter weight is set to high. At more than 3.5 g is overkill. Reset the counter weight, to either 1.8 g or 2.0 g Cheers mate..😊
Great video. I have a somewhat similar problem with my Denon DP300F turntable. When it's in automatic mode the tonearm descends just before it reaches the record so as a result it always misses the record and lands either on the turntable mat or it sometimes misses the mat completely and lands on the body of the turntable. As you said i have never seen anything online to fix this issue. Can you tell me why this is happening and how to fix? Thanks!
This is likely because the headshell is not original, and is shorter than the original one. There is usually somewhere you can adjust this by turning a screw.
I recently had to refill the dampening fluid on an old recordplayer i bought in january. It's a BSR Quanta 700; a really nice unit with an ADC XLM mk3 cartridge. instead of getting one of those syringes with dampening fluid, i used dampening fluid for the shock absorbers for RC-cars. its pretty much the same thing, just cheaper and you get more fluid for less money. it's a silicon oil with the viscosity of 100000 (That's of long the oil takes on a slope to reach a certain point. the higher the number, the higher the dampening factor) If I recall correctly i paid $8 for 200ml. Worked great!
WOW! Talk about the blind leading the blind!! However, the fix worked well to remedy the problem, so who am I to judge?? Good job using a little "common sense" to get the job done!! Don't expect this type of success in a majority of situations when repairing fairly delicate mechanisms without understanding how it actually functions ... But, in this case- there is not a lot to lose, and it can lead to a better understanding of how things operate. I'm glad you were successful in effecting the repair of your tonearm dropping too fast ! KIDS>>PLEASE DO NOT TRY TO FIX YOUR PARENTS EXPENSIVE TURNTABLE WITHOUT FIRST ASKING PERMISSION TO DO SO!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!You may live a longer and happier life by doing that! -)
So I actually looked this up before posting the video. Damping is the correct usage.... dampening is to make wet. I think this is a word that many people just use incorrectly.
The problem is, what you showing on 11:38, where you put the silicone oil is just a place for screw. That hole ending inside the part. The solution is: need to put silicone oil outside this part, and it will be work. Trust me, last weekend I took it to pieces my turntable, and I saw the mechanism.
Hole ending inside the part? What do you mean. And where do I need to put the oil. If it doesn’t go in that screw hole, what else is there?
I think he wants you to put the fluid on the shaft of the black plastic tone arm lift that you removed.
@@dennis2494oh wow, never would’ve figures this out. I have the turntable for 2 months now using it literally hours long daily. Today I noticed how it’s going down faster than before. I will try this once it will fall like a rock.
Any idea how much needs to be put on each side of the part?
I saw this come up in my feed earlier today and I thought to myself I HAVE to watch this after work tonight! I just got done placing my order for this fluid kit. My turntable needs this BAD!!! My tonearm drops with such force that it BOUNCES when it hits the record. It's been that way since I bought it several years ago. I bought the turntable used from eBay and am guessing that could have been the reason someone may have gotten rid of it. I always have to lower the cuing lever very slowly, now thanks to you Recordology, I won't have to do that anymore! Thank you!!!!!!!
Thank you so much for this video!!! I have the same TT with the same issue. It started a while ago, to the point where not only did it thud down, it would skip the first few seconds of the first track. I had searched online a few times for solutions, but I must not have been looking in the right places as I hadn't found anything. I simply resigned myself to just doing it manually every time. But the instant I saw this video, I bought the fluid kit and it works perfectly now! Thank you so much!
Awesome!!!!!
I did this on my AT-LP60x and it worked! The tonearm is smoothly going down, as new! Thank you so much!!! 🙏
Enjoyed the video, but I think that screw may be for height adjustment. The fluid you added may not have gone where it needed to go. I noticed the arm didn’t rise as high as it should when you lifted the lever after reassembly. I look forward to seeing a follow-up on this one.
I'd love to hear what you like better about the LP3 vs. the Fluance RT85 specifically. It's interesting that as much as you liked the Fluance on initial setup, it didn't end up replacing your LP3.
Recently, I took my Technics sl-qd2 out of the closet after around 30 years of non-use. It still had power but the tonearm was behaving badly. I'd cue it down and it would go back to rest position.
I fiddled with some screws and still couldn't get it right. Found a store about 25 miles away that said I could bring it in. The tt sat for a few days and I gave it one more try after getting a user manual off ebay. Adjusted some other screws and miraculously, it worked! Got a new stylus and ordered the Beatles white album, stereo remix. All my old albums are in terrible condition. Well, the sound is incredible! I forgot how warm the sound is compared to cd's. That screw you took out is the tonearm height adjustment on my tt. The tonearm on mine drops very smoothly. I'm sure the silicone grease must be dried up. I'm not sure if I want to spend the money to have the tt totally opened up and cleaned and re-greased, or buy a new one. But for now I'm just enjoying listening to it and I ordered another new album, remastered Aqualung. Can't wait to hear it!
Excellent video. Very helpful. Thanks.
LOVE THE WHITE, and red!!
I found this to be a fun video. I've been collecting records since 2015 (wow, has it really been 7 years already?!) and I've honestly never known how to actually replace the damping fluid. I always knew it was a thing that needed to be done eventually but I've never had to do it. Now I'll know the basic idea of what needs to be done when I eventually need to replace the fluid on my RT85.
I've been collecting records for over 55 years. Once you go down the rabbit hole, there's no escape!
I’m pleased I seen your video as I’ve saw this performed on other models but not the LP-3, which is what I’ve got also. It’s reassuring to know how easy it is to access and deposit the fluid. Much appreciated.
Hey. thank you for the video, its the proof I needed that my tonearm will work, while I am waiting the damping fluid I tried several oils and none did a difference so I was worried, cheers
Glad I could help
Thanks for the link, I have a BSR 4-speed I really need to get around to doing this to but have been putting it off since its not one of my main decks and its much less of an issue when its setting down the arm on automatic; same as yours.
my toshiba had the problem slightly more than a year after i got it so i just coated the rod with petroleum jelly every now and then and it worked fine
Thanks for the video. I seemed to have lost the little spring that fits into the hole. Can I still follow through with the process
or if not, where might I get another spring. I tried it once without the spring, and the tonearm seemed to work better. Advice?
I have the same turntable and the same problem. Mine comes down so fast that the stylus skids across the first couple of grooves on the record.. I ordered some lube. Thanks for the enlightenment.
You've left the landing light on ..! In Europe the landing is the corridor at the top of the stairs ...if you are in a single storey building you've just left the corridor light on or the en suite light .. excellent as always ..
I had the same problem with my 1976 vintage Pioneer PL530. That unit has the retaining screw radially threaded into the side of the piston, not axially, like yours. I believe the screw on yours is solely for holding the cuing arm onto the piston (as is mine). The damping fluid should be applied to the sides of the piston shaft, not into the threaded screw hole. I can only surmise (from your narrative) that you put so much into the screw hole that enough of it flowed onto the piston shaft to accomplish the repair. If you were to remove the piston shaft (which is much more complicated on most turntables), you would see a groove around it's circumference, about midway down. That groove is the actual damping fluid reservoir. Correct service procedure should include cleaning the old fluid out before applying the new stuff. In my case, I simply applied the fluid liberally to the exposed part of the shaft's side, equally around it's circumference , and "exercised" the cueing mechanism repeatedly, to work the fluid down along the shaft's length. This was messy, and took several repetitions, cleaning the excess with a foam swab between each application (I didn't want any cotton fibers to get in there). Eventually, I got the cueing speed even slower than it was originally.
tonybrozumato hit the nail on the head. Having re-damped many tonearms on many different makes and models of vintage tables that I have refurbished myself, his description fits the bill. I would like to add that manual tables allow the easiet access under the hood to the piston/cylinder for proper silicone application as there is much less disassembly of automation parts in order to remove the cylinder and access the groove where the silicone should actually be applied. This application from above as seen in the vid is often the only alternative in fully automatic turntables due to the complexity of disassembly and then reassembly of the automation parts.
Your front lighting here is good. Maybe just a back light over your head and shoulders to give you 3-D would be useful.
Hi have a Pioneer F117D fully automated T/T, however on auto return the tone arm on lifting does an up down motion. What could be the reasons & solution ? Thnx
thanks for this video. needed it. i also have the lp3 and love it. replaced the at91r with the at vm95c e and en. replaced the rubber mat with arylic one and went line level with the ifi phono preamp to my marantz nr1200. beautiful sound. this TT replaced a vintage manual pioneer pl71. but getter older and my hands may become unsteady. lol. use the various stylus for various albums, c for mono and older records, e for good to excellent and en for my near mint albums. tone arm on TT responses well to the various stylus. im happy with it and your reviews, updates and upkeep on the lp3 help a lot. keep up the good work. appreciate it.
No, but my friend had the tonearm on his AiO Memorex branded unit lift up midway through the first song (we were transferring his Bob Welch “French Kiss” album to his computer) and not drop even after returning to the resting area.
I’ve never seen this before, despite watching several vinyl channels.
And I agree that the LP3 should have a strobe on it.
That’s why I like your channel-you show stuff that nobody else will!!!
No need for a strobe in this day and age. Just use your cell phone and an RPM app. Adjust the speed if necessary using the corresponding potentiometers under the hood.
None of my 40 year old Technics players exhibit this affect. It seems to be a problem with AT. My ATLP-120XUSB has the same problem, but i don't use the cuing that much.
Exactly what i needed, cue mechanism on my Denon DP300 looks identical, so I will do the same
Update: It didn't work. For me the oil just sat on the surface and didn't seep into the piston. I had to take apart the turntable - remove the back plate and disassemble the piston, apply oil directly onto the cavety of the brass shaft. Putting it back together was a nightmare but it worked
try putting the fluid on the outside of the shaft of the black plastic part that you removed
How old is the turntable? Is the white plastic prone to yellowing the way old computer cases prove to be?
It was only a couple of years ago - I was worried about that too. I have since donated this one.
należy nasmarować opadający (mosiężny najczęściej) trzpień i ramię opada prawidłowo. Smar można zamówić w internecie najcześciej w dozowniku w postaci strzykawki.
I have the opposite problem on one of my suitcase players. It takes FOREVER to lower. I wonder if some fluid can be removed.
Curious what viscosity oil did you went with? I see 100, 300, and 500 viscosities online. Not sure what the units are, but I think you know what I'm asking. My arm/cartridge may be lower mass than your AT. So, I'm thinking of going with 100 viscosity.
You should use 300k silicon oil! You can buy it at a hobby store, it’s the same oil they use on model cars
@@tiagomourao3094thanx, mate.
very helpful, I have a technics 1401. I'm going to try this also.. tnx
The white LP3 is not available now. Great video! I have an ION Profile that has the same issue so I will get some of that and try it out! Thanks for the info.
What weight of dampening liquid for an Ion flash turntable tone arm?
Thanks for the informative video. I too have an lp3 turntable which is a crackin little turntable. Here in the UK they have risen in price lately.
The one of my LP 120 that I bought used drops like a rock. But I don't care, because I'm old school. I only use that particular turntable for 78 and 45s and rough 33s. I come from the days when you manually dropped your needle all the time anyway.
So, how is your stylus ?? Since you just let it drop down onto the vinyl
AT has a lot of problems with their damping fluid. I have an AT LP 120XUSB that has the same issue. I watched Vinyl Talk with Tavis several times. I have fluid, a small screwdriver and a syringe but I am scared to attempt the fix.
I followed his guidance and it worked fine
Maybe, just maybe, this week...
Well, I swallowed hard, and did it. Workers perfectly now.
So what viscosity is the silicone fluid you bought, was it 1M cst or one of the others?
Great question - 300k cst
@@Recordology Thanks! I just got a Toshiba SR-A200 that has a thin straight tonearm . Not flimsy by any means, but seems lighter than the one on the AT-LP3, so I think I'll get the 200k cst damping fluid. Any thoughts?
Record ology fixing tonearm dropping is cool on how to fixing to tonearm
I love my AT3600L !
My Sony PS-LX300usb has this problem. Drops hard enough to bounce. As it has a cuing button instead of a lever, its something of a nuisance to manage the descent.
Edit: you don’t have to call it a syringe. You could call it a piston.
Can you do this on the LP60 also?
Mr record ology.
Looks like you’re counter weight is set to high.
At more than 3.5 g is overkill. Reset the counter weight, to either 1.8 g or 2.0 g
Cheers mate..😊
I didnt even know that this fluid existed so thanks for bringing this to the public ...
Cool show, it was informative and a bit entertaining too. 😎👍
Try finding someone doing this on a vintage Luxman!!!
You look fine in the campfire light.
You forgot your Victrola VPRO-2000. No dampening out of the box. Nice video as usual!
Great video. I have a somewhat similar problem with my Denon DP300F turntable. When it's in automatic mode the tonearm descends just before it reaches the record so as a result it always misses the record and lands either on the turntable mat or it sometimes misses the mat completely and lands on the body of the turntable. As you said i have never seen anything online to fix this issue. Can you tell me why this is happening and how to fix? Thanks!
This is likely because the headshell is not original, and is shorter than the original one. There is usually somewhere you can adjust this by turning a screw.
Great Video
Love my AT3600L too. There's something immensely satisfying about getting great sound from a cart that only cost £15! 🙂
Agreed - that cart punches way above it's weight!
Wouldn’t combining the LP-60 and LP-120 create an LP-180?
Is that an ALUMINUM 45 adapter I see on the LP? 😉
Super glue Is great on plastic
I have the black LP3
Not works on AT-LP140XP
Hmm. I think you should have taken the piston out and then use the silicone on it. 😳
I recently had to refill the dampening fluid on an old recordplayer i bought in january. It's a BSR Quanta 700; a really nice unit with an ADC XLM mk3 cartridge. instead of getting one of those syringes with dampening fluid, i used dampening fluid for the shock absorbers for RC-cars. its pretty much the same thing, just cheaper and you get more fluid for less money. it's a silicon oil with the viscosity of 100000 (That's of long the oil takes on a slope to reach a certain point. the higher the number, the higher the dampening factor) If I recall correctly i paid $8 for 200ml. Worked great!
Super-Glue might work also!
Could you share the link to the oil you purchased? Thank you
Nice video. But please please please buy yourself a decent turntable. The LP3 is "almost perfect" ...compared to what?
Cool
WOW! Talk about the blind leading the blind!! However, the fix worked well to remedy the problem, so who am I to judge?? Good job using a little "common sense" to get the job done!! Don't expect this type of success in a majority of situations when repairing fairly delicate mechanisms without understanding how it actually functions ... But, in this case- there is not a lot to lose, and it can lead to a better understanding of how things operate. I'm glad you were successful in effecting the repair of your tonearm dropping too fast ! KIDS>>PLEASE DO NOT TRY TO FIX YOUR PARENTS EXPENSIVE TURNTABLE WITHOUT FIRST ASKING PERMISSION TO DO SO!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!You may live a longer and happier life by doing that! -)
😒
dampening
So I actually looked this up before posting the video. Damping is the correct usage.... dampening is to make wet. I think this is a word that many people just use incorrectly.