As the owner of an earlier build of the Vitessa - in my case a Type (125) with the Ultron - this concise presentation of the Vitessa is the best on TH-cam. I want to point out that the later Vitessa N and Vitessa L cameras have a barely visible red line on at the bottom of axle for the take up spool fork. This red line will rotate as the photographer winds the film forward. The rotation of the smalll red line is used to insure whether the film was properly loaded and is advancing properly.
Hi Andrew. Thanks for your nice comment. Also thanks for the extra information you provided. I had to look very closely to tell the little line was red, but it is. As you say it's very useful to know that the film is transporting correctly. Cheers, Howard
I just scored this camera at a yard sale for $1. It’s absolutely gorgeous and has a great case and the metraphot light meter with leather case. This video explained the camera so well. I can’t wait to try it out.
Wow, what a bargain. Assuming everything works it is capable of excellent quality photos. I'd check that the light meter is accurate against a digital camera if you have one. Cheers, Howard 📷
Thank you for the video. I just tool mine from the cabinet as inspired by your video. The signs on the front window show a black N for black/white Negative, black U/R for black/white Umkehrfilm/Reversal (slide), red T/D is for Tageslicht/Daylight colour slide, K/A Kunstlicht/Artificial light colour slide, the other two T/D/N and K/A/N are again Tageslicht/Daylight and Kunstlicht/Artificial light but indicating colour Negative film. I didn't know of the rewind trick to keep the kamera straight on the table open, thank you. On mine with the 2/50 Ultron the selen meter is showing the EV with a needle instrument on the top when film sensitivity is set right and a table near the needle is showing letters from A to F for corresponding table in DIN, ASA and WES, with DIN is "Deutsche Industrie Norm" and translates to the ASA which later deceloped to the international ISO. I do not remember using film in Weston sensitivity but when it entered market this must have been a standard and welcome for comparison these days as I still have the DIN sensitivity in mind, when selecting a filmmaterial. I didn't know the whole lens setup including the barndoors is moving to focus. New users without manual might profit from being shown how to move the lens back and close the doors. Best Albrecht
Hi Albrecht. Thanks for all the information about the film codes and their meanings. I envy you your Ultron version with the selenium light meter. They're quite a complicated camera to use but very beautiful. Cheers Howard
Hi, yes they are beautiful cameras. Superbly engineered. Voigtlander made some lovely cameras in those times. I just had a look at your channel, very interesting, I've subscribed. Cheers, Howard
Hi, thank you for the video. I just got a Vitessa and have a question about storing the camera mid roll. Is there any way to depress the plunger after you close the barn doors without advancing the film? Thanks
Hi fiuo646. Once you close the barn doors to shut the camera you can depress the plunger without advancing the film or cocking the shutter. These Germans think of everything. Cheers, Howard 📷
Various models of the basic Vitessa were made in the first half of the 1950s. It was Voigtlander's premier 35mm rangefinder model. It complexity and build quality were unmatched, then or later. The only negative comment I can think of is that they had the same squinty, frameless viewfinder common to almost all fixed lens rangefinder cameras of that time. In the 1970s-80s, they did not draw a large used price. I got my "L" in mint condition for $75 because the light meter was not working. (I repaired the bad electrical contact, common to selenium meters.) The cost of producing this camera at the time means that neither it, nor anything like it, will ever be made again. The Ultron lens mounted is superb. In the later 1950s, they were replaced by the model "T", which used the same body mechanisms, but eliminated the retracting lens in favor of a conventional, interchangeable lens mount. The T isn't made to the same finish standards IMO, but it's still quite nice, with four lenses. At one time, I passed on a nice T with three of the four lenses plus a few shades, cases, etc., for $150, my mistake. That was an average price at the time, and I really didn't care for the adaptions added to the model.
Thanks for your comment Randall. That sort of detail really helps to round out the review and provide all that extra information for those interested. A working L with the Ultron lens, you're a very lucky man. Cheers Howard 📷
Thank you for making this video! I picked-up the exact same model at a flea market, and was wondering how it functions. You explained it all perfectly! My camera seems to be in fully functional condition (and is cosmetically nearly mint); the only thing that I've noticed is that the rangefinder split screen is very dim. When focusing, the overlapping image is _very_ faint. The elements seem clear, and there's no dust or fungus or haze or anything. The RF moves properly with the knob, and it's coordinated with the lens moving, but again -- it's hard to see a second image over the VF image, to focus. Are they all like that?
Hi bricology. I'm glad you found the video useful. Actually my rangefinder is reasonably bright. These cameras are quite valuable, it might be worth getting the rangefinder professionally cleaned. Cheers, Howard
Thanks for your comment Claverton. You should put a roll through it. It will be an experience for you. If the camera is in good condition you should get some great shots. Cheers, Howard
OOOOPS, I forgot to show you how to close the Vitessa. Hold the camera vertically facing you with both hands. Place both thumbs on the two red crescents on the front of the shutter and press evenly with both thumbs until the lens moves within the barn doors and then use them to close the front. Holding the front firmly closed press the plunger down fully to lock the camera. 🤭
@@marksfian_xxx5877 Yes, the aperture selector is directly connected to the ev selector and the shutter speed selector can be moved along the ev scale.
As the owner of an earlier build of the Vitessa - in my case a Type (125) with the Ultron - this concise presentation of the Vitessa is the best on TH-cam.
I want to point out that the later Vitessa N and Vitessa L cameras have a barely visible red line on at the bottom of axle for the take up spool fork. This red line will rotate as the photographer winds the film forward. The rotation of the smalll red line is used to insure whether the film was properly loaded and is advancing properly.
Hi Andrew. Thanks for your nice comment.
Also thanks for the extra information you provided. I had to look very closely to tell the little line was red, but it is.
As you say it's very useful to know that the film is transporting correctly.
Cheers, Howard
I just scored this camera at a yard sale for $1. It’s absolutely gorgeous and has a great case and the metraphot light meter with leather case. This video explained the camera so well. I can’t wait to try it out.
Wow, what a bargain. Assuming everything works it is capable of excellent quality photos.
I'd check that the light meter is accurate against a digital camera if you have one.
Cheers, Howard 📷
Thank you for the video. I just tool mine from the cabinet as inspired by your video. The signs on the front window show a black N for black/white Negative, black U/R for black/white Umkehrfilm/Reversal (slide), red T/D is for Tageslicht/Daylight colour slide, K/A Kunstlicht/Artificial light colour slide, the other two T/D/N and K/A/N are again Tageslicht/Daylight and Kunstlicht/Artificial light but indicating colour Negative film. I didn't know of the rewind trick to keep the kamera straight on the table open, thank you. On mine with the 2/50 Ultron the selen meter is showing the EV with a needle instrument on the top when film sensitivity is set right and a table near the needle is showing letters from A to F for corresponding table in DIN, ASA and WES, with DIN is "Deutsche Industrie Norm" and translates to the ASA which later deceloped to the international ISO. I do not remember using film in Weston sensitivity but when it entered market this must have been a standard and welcome for comparison these days as I still have the DIN sensitivity in mind, when selecting a filmmaterial. I didn't know the whole lens setup including the barndoors is moving to focus.
New users without manual might profit from being shown how to move the lens back and close the doors.
Best
Albrecht
Hi Albrecht. Thanks for all the information about the film codes and their meanings.
I envy you your Ultron version with the selenium light meter.
They're quite a complicated camera to use but very beautiful.
Cheers Howard
This is an extremely well finished camera. I was lucky enough to find one in pristine condition. Enjoy your cameras!
Hi, yes they are beautiful cameras. Superbly engineered.
Voigtlander made some lovely cameras in those times.
I just had a look at your channel, very interesting, I've subscribed.
Cheers, Howard
Just got one… very interesting and unique camera!
Thanks!
Hi Donald. The Vitessa is a beautiful camera. Enjoy.
Cheers, Howard 📷
Hi, thank you for the video. I just got a Vitessa and have a question about storing the camera mid roll. Is there any way to depress the plunger after you close the barn doors without advancing the film? Thanks
Hi fiuo646. Once you close the barn doors to shut the camera you can depress the plunger without advancing the film or cocking the shutter.
These Germans think of everything.
Cheers, Howard 📷
Various models of the basic Vitessa were made in the first half of the 1950s. It was Voigtlander's premier 35mm rangefinder model. It complexity and build quality were unmatched, then or later. The only negative comment I can think of is that they had the same squinty, frameless viewfinder common to almost all fixed lens rangefinder cameras of that time. In the 1970s-80s, they did not draw a large used price. I got my "L" in mint condition for $75 because the light meter was not working. (I repaired the bad electrical contact, common to selenium meters.) The cost of producing this camera at the time means that neither it, nor anything like it, will ever be made again. The Ultron lens mounted is superb. In the later 1950s, they were replaced by the model "T", which used the same body mechanisms, but eliminated the retracting lens in favor of a conventional, interchangeable lens mount. The T isn't made to the same finish standards IMO, but it's still quite nice, with four lenses. At one time, I passed on a nice T with three of the four lenses plus a few shades, cases, etc., for $150, my mistake. That was an average price at the time, and I really didn't care for the adaptions added to the model.
Thanks for your comment Randall. That sort of detail really helps to round out the review and provide all that extra information for those interested.
A working L with the Ultron lens, you're a very lucky man.
Cheers Howard 📷
Thank you for making this video! I picked-up the exact same model at a flea market, and was wondering how it functions. You explained it all perfectly!
My camera seems to be in fully functional condition (and is cosmetically nearly mint); the only thing that I've noticed is that the rangefinder split screen is very dim. When focusing, the overlapping image is _very_ faint. The elements seem clear, and there's no dust or fungus or haze or anything. The RF moves properly with the knob, and it's coordinated with the lens moving, but again -- it's hard to see a second image over the VF image, to focus. Are they all like that?
Hi bricology. I'm glad you found the video useful.
Actually my rangefinder is reasonably bright.
These cameras are quite valuable, it might be worth getting the rangefinder professionally cleaned.
Cheers, Howard
Thanks Howard, my Dad had exact same camera and I've had it for years but haven't touched it yet. Might put a roll through it so this was useful
Thanks for your comment Claverton.
You should put a roll through it. It will be an experience for you.
If the camera is in good condition you should get some great shots.
Cheers, Howard
OOOOPS, I forgot to show you how to close the Vitessa. Hold the camera vertically facing you with both hands. Place both thumbs on the two red crescents on the front of the shutter and press evenly with both thumbs until the lens moves within the barn doors and then use them to close the front. Holding the front firmly closed press the plunger down fully to lock the camera. 🤭
how do you close the Vitessa once there is film loaded in it?
Sorry but i'm abit lost....but does the aperture wheel moves with the EV wheel?
@@marksfian_xxx5877 Yes, the aperture selector is directly connected to the ev selector and the shutter speed selector can be moved along the ev scale.
@@marksfian_xxx5877 see my comment above.
@@howpow ohh i see thank you so much!
Impressive camera and presentation
Thankyou Malcolm. See you next week. 😃
I had the A model version 2 with the Ultron lens, in perfect condition. I was stupid to sell it. Regret it to this day.
The Ultron is certainly the most desirable model. I think we have all sold something that we later regretted. I know I have.