Not many people are going to pay for a 3D printed board. Get ready to pay 50k for each injection mold. The market is flooded with competition and these electric longboards are fairly easy to make. There is not much to differentiate the product besides it's wattage and the 18650 batteries he's using are available everywhere. Then you need to look at profit margins after raw materials, shipping, and assembly to determine if there's actually a potential business there.
Respekt wirklich !💪 Dass du so viel deiner Endergebnisse deines Lernprozess hier bereit stellst der Hammer Extrem hilfreich und zeitsparend für alle die solche projekte angehen
einfach nur unglaublich, wie du es hinbekommst, dass deine Boards sich immer übertreffen, während ich noch an meinem Ersten am bauen bin und durch dauerhafte Komplikationen nach ca einem halben jahr erst 30 km gefahren bin Fazit: Hut ab ich bin begeistert. Mach weiter so
Learned a lot too. Adding that diode at the input of VESC for over voltage protection, using UART to control the VESC. And water proofing the electronics, cheap and better bearings, etc. Thanks a lot.
@@Pryside xD are you trying to say (get tu da chappa ) ? Like Arnold did? Austrian accent haha .. Btw I really loved your skateboard .. and the technical details .. well done..
Yes, he is, he's from Tübingen,Baden-Württemberg You can see in his Video, where he showcases the driving, talking about the reliability, that he drives by cars and if you pause, you can see their Plates ;-)
@@WhitedevilEE if you watch the video and notice the engineering level.. you also reach the conclusion that he's German ;D He's Lucky to be live in Deutschland
@@laitchdasi He's not lucky, because these boards are not allowed to drive on public streets here. (I'm German too) So his board is highly illegal and could be taken by to police if they stop him. (Most cops however are cool about it, as long as you drive responsible and don't hurt/endager anyone)
Freaking awesome dude. Thank you so much for all the work and safety priorities in place on the build! I plan to start my first print today. My goal is to have this project completed by August. 😁 So stoked
Man, thank you so much for this video. I really don't understand why people are disliking it. I'll be building two boards for my university project this year and your video helped widen my scope on things I need to analyse. Thanks for the video. You got yourself a new subscriber
Thank you for designing this thing, i have an beaten Loaded board and been wondering for this for a while now. I've thought of installing hub motors because of all the dirt (live on the countryside). Keep on designing and posting these amazing projects, cheers! :)
That is just awesome dude! Amazing stuff. I'd like to have a try making this as I have a 3D printer and old longboard gathering dust in my shed. Thanks in advance! :D
I use quality capacitor on my drones circuit board for noise filtering on the battery. Thx for the tip for esk8 electronic I did not know the TVS diode.
Another useful and super cheap addition is a small pack of silica gel inside the casing. It will keep out condensation vapour and maintain as dry an area as possible. You will get them free in PLA filament packs so just keep and use.
I would strongly recommend TIG welding those motor brackets to those trucks. I had the same setup with a single motor. After about 200 km the motor mount to truck interface was so loose that the belt started to slip. I had even drilled and tapped the trucks properly with 3 set screws to hold the motor bracket. No problem since I paid someone to weld them for me. Love the build tho!
Nah, no need to. I have ridden these mounts almost 2000km in total and never had any issues. I used loctite 648 for where the mount is touching the axle and loctite 243 for all screws. Holds perfectly.
This is a great video, you’ve certainly earned my subscription! I’d love to see a video about your anti spark switch and how you made it. Keep up the great work!
I also have an anet a8. I bought it 2 years ago for 170 € and it's still working really good. For remote I used a rc remote control but build an arduino nano in it for all this controling stuff.
Saw some Ender 3 Prints and for the price this is propably the best print quality. But with a Boden Style you can't print TPU, so Anet A8 stays my favorite cheap printer for now :)
@@Pryside Hey , leo can you also guide me through this .... See my DIY E board battery has a discharge of 40 A , with a 24A esc. But i installed a 15 A bms on the battery pack... But my positive end of the battery goes directly into the esc , neg end goes into the bms . So am i running my board on 15 A ?
@@esk8tapas22 no 45A is constant rating. Peak depends on if you monitor temps which I do. And how hard you want to stress them. 35A per cell is easily possible for a few seconds, wou wont need it for more than a second anyway, cause you'll reach 50kmh in no time with that
@@Pryside That's right ... But you shouldn't stress your battery anyway .... Thats why I'm going to use 21700 cells next time , which can put out 35 A constant & have great capacity to !!
Echt tolles Projekt und klasse Video! Ich glaube der Algorithmus würde sich freuen wenn mehr Videos, die dafür aber ein wenig kürzer sind, kommen würden. Ich hoffe das Video wird trotzdem weit verbreitet werden.
Hey, das Video ist gut gemacht! Ich gehe mal davon aus, dass du eigentlich deutsch sprichst, dem Akzent nach. ;-) Inspiriert zum nachmachen, weil du vor allem deine negativen Erfahrungen aus einem früheren Projekt darstellst und anwendest.
hey kannst du mir sagen wie du die battery gemacht hast? Ich versuche die in dein designtes gehäuse reinzupacken , weiss aber nicht wie ich die erbinden soll ohne das ich den ganzen strom durch nur 1streifen leite. Ich hab angst das der nickel streifen zu heisst wird!
exactly, very low energy density. They would weigh way more and take up much more space then my 18650s. And on top of that lipos are basically trash after 100 full cycles while mine should last at least 1000cycles.
Very true although the power density is so amazing that I still love Lipos. I used them for my coilgun and am able to discharge over 20kW from 2S1P 4.4Ah batteries, even though it's just for milliseconds it still blows my mind.
@@Pryside I think you are just unlucky. Lipos are awesome and they very similar to lions these days. Easy you can get 400+ cyles and amps are awesome. Im using 2x6S 10ah's on my electric bike and I have driven over 1.5k kilometers with them already. And its nice to know if I decide to make some alternation I can get easily get constant 5KW feed form those two in series. And best part it took me only 5-10 minutes add whole thing to ebike.
nice review, and like it much ! might also do some exploration after finish my first build of el-board 1x beld drive based on VESK 4.2 with 5045 motor and 7s2P battery 6A. then may go with this even deeper :) anyway cool guide Leo !
Wie stark beinflussen die schrauben im board die Stabilität? Ich will nicht in mein 180€ vanguard reinschrauben um dann zu merken das es dann eher riskiert zu brechen. Ist es also schlimm?
Du meist die paar Holz gewindeeinzätze die ich da drin hab? Ja tat mir auch etwas weh ein 180€ board 14 mal zu durchbohren für 6 akku schrauben, 4 vesc case schrauben und 4 stromkabel löcher. Aber das ändert absolut nix an der stabilität. Booted Board hatte teils viel breitete schlitze für ihre kabel und mir ist kein fall bekannt wo das board da entlang abbricht. Die einzigen fälle die auf dem boosted subreddit gesehn hab ist brüche vor der vorderachse durch autos und sachen die drüber fahren. Also da hätte ich keine sorge :)
30 miles range is very wrong. they have 360Wh, thats 33Km or 20 miles of range. Maybe if you ride with 10Km/h but real world conditions are 11Wh/Km. And their old remote was very dangorous and had connection issues all the time, definitly not a safe and reliable board. I dont know how much you can trust a company that obviously does 0 testing.
Hey im teen and i have a long board, im kinda a tech geek so i think i would be able to build, but does anybody know how many money id need to save up?
you can use recycled cells and cheap "electric skateboard hub motor kit" from aliexpress and a cheap 10S BMS that will get you running with less than 300€. Its not a insanely powerful kit but its still a lot of fun...
I don't get it, boosted chose it's battery to be very power dense but yet you're board makes far more power, do you think their batteries will therefore outlive yours? Also the 2.2kW you stated for boosted is that constant or peak?
Boosted uses LiFePo4 as their battery and could easily outperform my board. If I used the same battery as them I could even increase my power even more. Boosted board limits their boards to a moderate 2.2kW constant power. Meaning you can hop on your board and ride up mount everest with full trottle and the board wont overheat because the ESCs are the limiting factor. On my board the ESCs are not the limiting factor, I could increase their current quite a bit but that would damage my cells. And I can only push around 2.5kW going up a constant hill anything higher will likely thermal throttle. On top of that LiFePo4 have insane cycle life. They will last you 5000cycles+ with 80% remaining capacity. That would be 70.000 Kilometers on a Boosted board. They definitly made a good choice with their battery, its reliable, very safe, has great cycle life and has very high energy density and will outlast every other component. A 100Wh Battery that can produce 2.2kW is otherwise only possible with lipos but they are unsafe, and very unreliable.
I'm very interested in these batteries, I think BYD and CATL uses them too and another big benefit is it uses zero cobalt. Are you able to purchase LiFePo4s online? Do you know what the volumetric energy density is? I know for 18650s and 21700s it can go up to 750Wh/l but you lose about 20% due to packaging because they're cylindrical. Also I assume Boosted lets you go higher than 2.2kW for a few seconds do you know what the peak power is? I'm curious also how high a C rate they can take on charging and thus what kind of regen you can get up to, I definitely should research these batteries a little more. As far as I can tell though the German auto manufacturers are all buying NMC batteries even though they are buying from CATL whose primary product was the LiFePo4 prior. For these manufacturers there is something that is preventing them from going with this chemistry, although it may just be to have only one battery chemistry and as NMC is more common they can also source from LG chem and others.
yes you can buy them online. I get my cells from nkon.nl but thats only really usefull if you live in the eu. The boosted cells are the A123 and they have around 50-60% of the energy density of a li-ion battery. You can usually charge them with 4C, thats what they claim in the datasheet. So 10 minutes from 5-80% should be possible. But charge time is never my concern on my daily commutes... And dont even look at german car manufacturers they seriously dont know what they are doing. Look at audi with their terrible battery that gets way to hot and VW is now buying tesla packs because they realized that making a good EV battery is actually difficult and takes time but they were too busy sucking oil companys for the last 10 years.
Wait you're talking about VW buying Tesla batteries for their electrify charging stations? But yeah Tesla just updated the range of their S and X to 370 and 325 EPA miles without upping the pack size. E-tron is rated for 204 miles on EPA cycle. This is just insane, I never expected that huge of a difference and I'm very aware of the Tesla's technology lead.
Wait wait 12s 3p ...so 50volt and you say 5000watt? Dont get me wrong but i hardly doubt that you pull 33amp per cell from the standard 18650s you used just because the voltage would drop down to 3v or lower at this load ...
Fully charged Battery at 50,4V. IR per cell is 20mOhm (DC iR from Datasheet), 3 in paralell is 6,3mOhm, 12 in series is 75mOhm Lets calculate the theoretical maximum. I currently have a 75A Current Limit, but lets assume I set this to 90A say I go full throttle: My Vescs pull 180A 180A * 0,075Ohm = 13,5V voltage drop inside my Battery 50,4V-13,5V= 36,9V Voltage going to my VESC (still above 3V per cell) 36,9V * 180A = 6642W so thats the amount of Power getting eaten from my vesc. Thats where usually everybody stops and says that this is the power, but since there are a ton of losses at this current here is the real mechanical power that you would be measuring on a dyno: Resistance of my vescs: 0,0011Ohm Resistance of Motors: 0,0225Ohm (0,0011Ohm+0,0225Ohm)*180A²= 764,64W of Power loss in Motors and ESC 6642W-764,64W= 5877W MECHANICAL POWER so yes, the 5kW is easily possible.
Mellow an nem Vanguard wird aber auch ziemlich nice sein. Die ride Quality vom vanguard schlägt halt einfach alles andere :D Internet und Bücher, die Information ist quazi gratis da draußen :)
i built my own E-Longboard too :D the maximum speed is 52km/h and i have about 30 km range :3 it costed around 500€ and can easily beat a boosted board as well :D well i used a diffent motor and different batteries BUT... The main difference is that i dont use a BMS. discharging without a BMS is not a problem as long as you (how i do it) charge the batteries balanced, so they all have the same voltage. in my case i had a special charger at home and didnt need to buy one but i mainly didnt use a BMS because i simply dont trust them. the battery pack is the most expensive part of the longboard and i want to keep it good for a long time. For that reason i chose a proffesional charger and not a BMS
yeah, thats pretty close to my first eBoard I built. I also didnt trust any BMS out there until I had the smart BMS. Now I can just look at all the cells with the app and never have to worry. :) made even a video about it th-cam.com/video/QQW3uuzNnkg/w-d-xo.html
@@LucaFlati i used a FSESC 6.6 to run my Aerodrive sk3 213kv BLDC Motor. The FSESC6.6 can deliver 60A constantly and the motor can handle 65A. but i programmed the FSESC to a max current of 50A to keep everything cooler and dont run it on the limit. 50A are also just used when start rolling. while driving the motor pulls around 10 to 15A i also used samsung 25R cells for the battery pack. i configured it a 10S5P pack so it has 42V and 12500mAh when fully charged. with this setup i reach around 25 to 30 km of range and a max speed of 52 kmh
Hallo Leo, Ich habe dein Anti Spark Switch nachgebaut jedoch ist dieser mir nach einer kleinen Testfahrt hochgeflogen. Ich vermute, dass die >60 Ampere zu viel für meinen Drahtwiederstand (axial, 50 W, 1 Ohm) waren. Dieser ist auch sichtbar kaputt gegangen. Hast du einen Tipp, welcher Drahtwiederstand besser geeignet wäre oder liegt der Fehler doch wo anders?
Hi tim. Da hast du was falsch gebaut und die Funktion davon nicht verstanden. Kein strom fließt im betrieb über R3. Von meim antispark gibts mitlerweile ein gut getestetes pcb, kannst dir mal anschauen verkauf ich im forum. www.electric-skateboard.builders/t/3d-printed-boosted-board-killer/88803/177
Because they are 100% fake. Dont even need to look them up. The currently highest capacity battery is the Samsung 35E with 3,5Ah anything higher then that is definitly fake. Only namebrand batterys like LG, Panasonic, Samsung, Sanyo etc. are actually good, every other "vapecell" and whatever brand just buys LG cells rewraps them with a higher capacity and amp label and resells them. the 30Q are still the best energy density and power density 18650.
You are propably right, but I got my Anet fully upgraded better than almost anybody out there and it has 1500h of printtime so far and still works great. Thats why I still think its the best budget printer for 100€ absolutly unbeatable. Maybe the ender has more features from the go, but currently I have no itentions of buying a new one. Since I can also use the Ultimaker 3 Ext. at my workplace. :)
Yes if you made various upgrades it should produce by far better prints, but then the overall price tag isn't 100€ ;) the ender 3 is currently the best beginners printer to start with.
You should sell premade sets too! I think its awesome your giving away the design for free but for people who don't want to do the extra work and are willing to pay for it you could profit off your time. Even find a 3rd party to handle all the business stuff for you, if you want of course. Will be trying my own build though! Thank you for you work!
actually tried that a few times before but it just looks a little wierd. I can point the camera downwards that you see the board, but then you cant see anything of the environment and everything interesting disappears. I can point it forwards and you will see the environment I'm riding towards but you dont see anything of the board. With a bike this is easy since a chestmounted gopro gives you a good sense of what the rider is riding and where, but on an electric skateboard all this sense of what I am riding disappears.
Warum ich ein bms nutz? Ja wie im video gesagt: zuverlässigkeit. Du kannst das ding 5000km fahren und musst außer riemen wechseln nix großes machen. Ja das sind andere zellen als bei meinem ersten eboard. Das sind samsung 30q
Depends on what you already know and what exactly from this video you want to do yourself. If you know nothing get books about electronics or electrical drives. then google a lot and read a lot... you need some curiosity and to be ok with getting bored. then youll get there
Have you ever thought about a "kill Switch" to throttle the speed to make it more legal on German streets? If you could add a handrail and maximum speed of 20 kmh, it would be more legal. Nevertheless, I'm thinking about building this. Great Work!
I want to turn this build into a dirt board version with snowboard like footstraps and rear mounted motors. Would you support my decision? I'd use your stl files and arduino programs in order to run it all. :D
yeah maybe would be a nice idea. Personally I dont really like eMountainboards, they are too expensive and too heavy and destroy the purpose of a light electric vehicle I can carry around everywhere. And my battery case is not really designe for that purpose. Its just 12S3P on a mountainbaord you generally want to have more capacity since its heavier anyway.
Hi Leo! I hope you can help me really quickly... I am DIYing my own E-Longboard right now and would like to add a TVS diode to my seltup as well. I am running on a 10S2P (18650) Setup with a Dual VESC 4.20. Can you please give me advice what TVS diode I should use? I think you run on a 12S setup right? Do the diode specs need to be any different between 12S and 10S? Thank you so much! Keep the good vids comming!!!! Cheers!
The tvs mentioned in the video and mentioned in the forum. 12S with tvs and low ir caps like EEUFR1J681L is ok. You could use a lower breakdown tvs but this diode is ok for all
Hi Leo, thanks for your video. It is very impressive. I have some questions: 1. in your previous video you were soldering the battery pack. Did you find any huge disadvantages compared to welding? 2. how did you integrate the smart bms? most can only handle up to 70A, but your setup must have at least the double. Thanks.
Yes, in my first eBoard and also my very old eBike I used to solder the cells, I think its still an okay option if you have a somewhat powerful soldering iron. The main reason I switched to welding is because its way cleaner and theoretically doesnt stress the cells so much. Spotwelding saves quite some space and looks overall way nicer than soldering. Even I use a 60A BMS. But these 60A are the rated constant current. Meaning 2500W constant power. Thats more than enough. The BMS can handle 250A peak easily.
Great video. Can you put a link of the TVS Diode you used for the vesc protection? I'm running a 10s3p battery (236.5W) battery and Vesc and 6374 149kv motors. Also, can you make a video on how to install the TVS Diode on the vesc.
Why not use a marine capacitor bank? Lithium Battery only take 1200 charges and a capacitor bank will give you well over 1 million charges for a very long range with half the weight
Haha, would love to buy one but please show me the Ultracapacitors that have double the weight energy density then Liion. Supercapacitors have terrible energy density, less than 60x that of a Lithium Ion Battery. photonicswiki.org/index.php?title=File:Power_vs_energy_density.png
Man if you can make this board commercially. I would buy it! 🙏
me too... greetings from Serbia
Dreaming is doing. We will be seeing this in 2020 😉
And me that’s awesome
Oof give me one.
Just start your own company with this already
millionaire overnight
I have a name for it: "NOT A BOOSTED BOARD!" ...or... "B.B. (Better than Boosted!)"
@@vuswa thats really dumb
@@vuswa Good idea, and you can make a fast food chain called "Better than McDonalds" and hope you don't get sued.
Not many people are going to pay for a 3D printed board. Get ready to pay 50k for each injection mold. The market is flooded with competition and these electric longboards are fairly easy to make. There is not much to differentiate the product besides it's wattage and the 18650 batteries he's using are available everywhere. Then you need to look at profit margins after raw materials, shipping, and assembly to determine if there's actually a potential business there.
You read technical specs like Eminem in rap-battle :)
If you carry this 9.5 Kilo board you knees will weaken and your arm get heavy, then there will be vomit on your sweater already, moms spagetti
Respekt wirklich !💪
Dass du so viel deiner Endergebnisse deines Lernprozess hier bereit stellst der Hammer
Extrem hilfreich und zeitsparend für alle die solche projekte angehen
einfach nur unglaublich, wie du es hinbekommst, dass deine Boards sich immer übertreffen, während ich noch an meinem Ersten am bauen bin und durch dauerhafte Komplikationen nach ca einem halben jahr erst 30 km gefahren bin
Fazit: Hut ab ich bin begeistert. Mach weiter so
Learned a lot too. Adding that diode at the input of VESC for over voltage protection, using UART to control the VESC. And water proofing the electronics, cheap and better bearings, etc. Thanks a lot.
I think this guy is a German.
Get to se chappa
@@Pryside xD are you trying to say (get tu da chappa ) ? Like Arnold did? Austrian accent haha ..
Btw I really loved your skateboard .. and the technical details .. well done..
Yes, he is, he's from Tübingen,Baden-Württemberg
You can see in his Video, where he showcases the driving, talking about the reliability, that he drives by cars and if you pause, you can see their Plates ;-)
@@WhitedevilEE if you watch the video and notice the engineering level.. you also reach the conclusion that he's German ;D
He's Lucky to be live in Deutschland
@@laitchdasi He's not lucky, because these boards are not allowed to drive on public streets here. (I'm German too)
So his board is highly illegal and could be taken by to police if they stop him. (Most cops however are cool about it, as long as you drive responsible and don't hurt/endager anyone)
LOADED VANGUARD! Been my favorite board for the past 6 years. Amazing board
Quite expensive but really worth it, so smooth to ride :)
Richtig geiles Projekt 👍👌 freue mich schon auf das nächste Video
Freaking awesome dude. Thank you so much for all the work and safety priorities in place on the build! I plan to start my first print today. My goal is to have this project completed by August. 😁 So stoked
Hands down !! The best Pryside Video !! 🔥🔥
Watched it nearly 50 times !!
Man, thank you so much for this video. I really don't understand why people are disliking it. I'll be building two boards for my university project this year and your video helped widen my scope on things I need to analyse. Thanks for the video. You got yourself a new subscriber
thanks really nice to hear.
Yeah I made english videos since a year ago, some ppl are still pissed I switched to english... But its okay :D
Thank you for designing this thing, i have an beaten Loaded board and been wondering for this for a while now. I've thought of installing hub motors because of all the dirt (live on the countryside). Keep on designing and posting these amazing projects, cheers! :)
Very nice new Video! Man, I just love that stuff!
Yes, more insane stuff like this.
I'd be willing to pay a premium price for your hard work.
Me too.
Beautifull design, Keep up the good work. Will def try out your build !! TY for sharing the build and info
That is just awesome dude! Amazing stuff. I'd like to have a try making this as I have a 3D printer and old longboard gathering dust in my shed. Thanks in advance! :D
Enjoyed it a lot. Smart BMS and good choice on high power battery could be the next improvement for my esk8board. 🤗
I use quality capacitor on my drones circuit board for noise filtering on the battery. Thx for the tip for esk8 electronic I did not know the TVS diode.
I also added a tvs to my drone, just keeps it safe and avoids broken escs
@@Pryside I burnt a lot of esc... I will a TVs also. Super thank you.
Great scott! This is just awesome!
Great video of a great build dude! DIY forever ❤️
all i can think about when watching this is (i'll be back)
Another useful and super cheap addition is a small pack of silica gel inside the casing. It will keep out condensation vapour and maintain as dry an area as possible.
You will get them free in PLA filament packs so just keep and use.
I would strongly recommend TIG welding those motor brackets to those trucks. I had the same setup with a single motor. After about 200 km the motor mount to truck interface was so loose that the belt started to slip. I had even drilled and tapped the trucks properly with 3 set screws to hold the motor bracket. No problem since I paid someone to weld them for me. Love the build tho!
Nah, no need to. I have ridden these mounts almost 2000km in total and never had any issues. I used loctite 648 for where the mount is touching the axle and loctite 243 for all screws. Holds perfectly.
This is a great video, you’ve certainly earned my subscription! I’d love to see a video about your anti spark switch and how you made it. Keep up the great work!
Thanks, yeah that propably will be the next video when I find the time.
Very informative lots to think about some really good ideas by far the best video I have watched recently I hope you do well thanks for sharing
Big respect
I also have an anet a8. I bought it 2 years ago for 170 € and it's still working really good. For remote I used a rc remote control but build an arduino nano in it for all this controling stuff.
Saw some Ender 3 Prints and for the price this is propably the best print quality. But with a Boden Style you can't print TPU, so Anet A8 stays my favorite cheap printer for now :)
For anyone looking to get an easy to use and cheap 3d printer, the ender 3 and ender 3 Pro by creality are good options.
Alter, wie machst du das alles, der absolute Wahnsinn. Mann muss so intelligent sein um so etwas zu bauen
Thanks man
Can you please tell me how many Amps are you running through your board ?
I was running 90 Motor Amps per Motor. So 180A there and around 115A on the Battery
@@Pryside Hey , leo can you also guide me through this ....
See my DIY E board battery has a discharge of 40 A , with a 24A esc. But i installed a 15 A bms on the battery pack...
But my positive end of the battery goes directly into the esc , neg end goes into the bms . So am i running my board on 15 A ?
90A is crazy, your Battery is only 45 A !!
@@esk8tapas22 no 45A is constant rating. Peak depends on if you monitor temps which I do. And how hard you want to stress them. 35A per cell is easily possible for a few seconds, wou wont need it for more than a second anyway, cause you'll reach 50kmh in no time with that
@@Pryside That's right ...
But you shouldn't stress your battery anyway ....
Thats why I'm going to use 21700 cells next time , which can put out 35 A constant & have great capacity to !!
nice mal wieder was von dir zu sehen.
When you will get into detail with that anti spark switch .... A video i mean ... Great work by the way!
takes a few weeks, I want to make this a pcb that people can purchase or build themself easily.
I love my Beamer. Just bought a Boosted Stealth. This man is why I go German engineering.
Dat geman accent.
Yuneec for me. Doesn't break the bank.
As always... good luck eskating in ol germany.
This dude is a blood genius.
"you may notice it on a fidget spinner" xD...
lässt sich inzwischen viel besser zuhören, englisch skills definitiv improved!
Juhu endlich wieder ein neues Video!!
haha, ja hat einfach mega lang teils gebraucht
Die Arbeit hat sich aber wie man sieht total gelohnt!
Freue mich schon drauf 💥💥💥
This makes me wanna buy one and ride it, even though I don't even know how to ride a regular skateboard to start with. Wot.
go for it. be careful but love it. so much fun. skateboarding is a massive joy and love in my life for 30 yrs. enjoy mate
Thank you for this video! Really helpful!
Add a flashlight in the controller and possibly a small toolkit somehwere onboard for on the go use
Arnold.. is that you? you can't fool me !
Echt tolles Projekt und klasse Video! Ich glaube der Algorithmus würde sich freuen wenn mehr Videos, die dafür aber ein wenig kürzer sind, kommen würden. Ich hoffe das Video wird trotzdem weit verbreitet werden.
LOVE the gritty details! You should start selling boards!
Endlich ein neues Video!!!
Nice
Hey, das Video ist gut gemacht!
Ich gehe mal davon aus, dass du eigentlich deutsch sprichst, dem Akzent nach. ;-)
Inspiriert zum nachmachen, weil du vor allem deine negativen Erfahrungen aus einem früheren Projekt darstellst und anwendest.
Your awesome man. Thank you.
Such an awesome build!
Elon of electric skateboards incoming?
they say SpaceX has big balls and it's true
You got my sub and like with one amazing high quality video, congratulations :)
glad you liked it :D
Awesome video. i'll be back
hey kannst du mir sagen wie du die battery gemacht hast? Ich versuche die in dein designtes gehäuse reinzupacken , weiss aber nicht wie ich die erbinden soll ohne das ich den ganzen strom durch nur 1streifen leite. Ich hab angst das der nickel streifen zu heisst wird!
I love all but battery. Why don't you use lipo pauches? Much easer to assable and amps almost always enough.
Energy density isn't as high so he won't get the range he was looking for
exactly, very low energy density. They would weigh way more and take up much more space then my 18650s. And on top of that lipos are basically trash after 100 full cycles while mine should last at least 1000cycles.
Very true although the power density is so amazing that I still love Lipos. I used them for my coilgun and am able to discharge over 20kW from 2S1P 4.4Ah batteries, even though it's just for milliseconds it still blows my mind.
@@Pryside I think you are just unlucky. Lipos are awesome and they very similar to lions these days. Easy you can get 400+ cyles and amps are awesome. Im using 2x6S 10ah's on my electric bike and I have driven over 1.5k kilometers with them already. And its nice to know if I decide to make some alternation I can get easily get constant 5KW feed form those two in series. And best part it took me only 5-10 minutes add whole thing to ebike.
nice review, and like it much ! might also do some exploration after finish my first build of el-board 1x beld drive based on VESK 4.2 with 5045 motor and 7s2P battery 6A. then may go with this even deeper :) anyway cool guide Leo !
That esk8 is the most complete esk8 I've ever seen congrats
thanks :D
Wie stark beinflussen die schrauben im board die Stabilität? Ich will nicht in mein 180€ vanguard reinschrauben um dann zu merken das es dann eher riskiert zu brechen. Ist es also schlimm?
Du meist die paar Holz gewindeeinzätze die ich da drin hab? Ja tat mir auch etwas weh ein 180€ board 14 mal zu durchbohren für 6 akku schrauben, 4 vesc case schrauben und 4 stromkabel löcher. Aber das ändert absolut nix an der stabilität. Booted Board hatte teils viel breitete schlitze für ihre kabel und mir ist kein fall bekannt wo das board da entlang abbricht. Die einzigen fälle die auf dem boosted subreddit gesehn hab ist brüche vor der vorderachse durch autos und sachen die drüber fahren.
Also da hätte ich keine sorge :)
This was amazing
Wow, amazing work!.
awesome
The Evolve Bamboo gtx is easily the best electric skateboard. Atv wheel & gear options plus 30 miles of range with digital remote.
30 miles range is very wrong. they have 360Wh, thats 33Km or 20 miles of range. Maybe if you ride with 10Km/h but real world conditions are 11Wh/Km.
And their old remote was very dangorous and had connection issues all the time, definitly not a safe and reliable board. I dont know how much you can trust a company that obviously does 0 testing.
Hey im teen and i have a long board, im kinda a tech geek so i think i would be able to build, but does anybody know how many money id need to save up?
you can use recycled cells and cheap "electric skateboard hub motor kit" from aliexpress and a cheap 10S BMS that will get you running with less than 300€. Its not a insanely powerful kit but its still a lot of fun...
this channel deserve bove milion subs and above 10 mil of views
Haha thanks :)
Some day maybe, if i manage to make more often videos :D
I don't get it, boosted chose it's battery to be very power dense but yet you're board makes far more power, do you think their batteries will therefore outlive yours? Also the 2.2kW you stated for boosted is that constant or peak?
Boosted uses LiFePo4 as their battery and could easily outperform my board. If I used the same battery as them I could even increase my power even more. Boosted board limits their boards to a moderate 2.2kW constant power. Meaning you can hop on your board and ride up mount everest with full trottle and the board wont overheat because the ESCs are the limiting factor.
On my board the ESCs are not the limiting factor, I could increase their current quite a bit but that would damage my cells. And I can only push around 2.5kW going up a constant hill anything higher will likely thermal throttle.
On top of that LiFePo4 have insane cycle life. They will last you 5000cycles+ with 80% remaining capacity. That would be 70.000 Kilometers on a Boosted board. They definitly made a good choice with their battery, its reliable, very safe, has great cycle life and has very high energy density and will outlast every other component.
A 100Wh Battery that can produce 2.2kW is otherwise only possible with lipos but they are unsafe, and very unreliable.
I'm very interested in these batteries, I think BYD and CATL uses them too and another big benefit is it uses zero cobalt. Are you able to purchase LiFePo4s online? Do you know what the volumetric energy density is? I know for 18650s and 21700s it can go up to 750Wh/l but you lose about 20% due to packaging because they're cylindrical. Also I assume Boosted lets you go higher than 2.2kW for a few seconds do you know what the peak power is? I'm curious also how high a C rate they can take on charging and thus what kind of regen you can get up to, I definitely should research these batteries a little more. As far as I can tell though the German auto manufacturers are all buying NMC batteries even though they are buying from CATL whose primary product was the LiFePo4 prior. For these manufacturers there is something that is preventing them from going with this chemistry, although it may just be to have only one battery chemistry and as NMC is more common they can also source from LG chem and others.
yes you can buy them online. I get my cells from nkon.nl but thats only really usefull if you live in the eu. The boosted cells are the A123 and they have around 50-60% of the energy density of a li-ion battery.
You can usually charge them with 4C, thats what they claim in the datasheet. So 10 minutes from 5-80% should be possible. But charge time is never my concern on my daily commutes...
And dont even look at german car manufacturers they seriously dont know what they are doing. Look at audi with their terrible battery that gets way to hot and VW is now buying tesla packs because they realized that making a good EV battery is actually difficult and takes time but they were too busy sucking oil companys for the last 10 years.
Wait you're talking about VW buying Tesla batteries for their electrify charging stations? But yeah Tesla just updated the range of their S and X to 370 and 325 EPA miles without upping the pack size. E-tron is rated for 204 miles on EPA cycle. This is just insane, I never expected that huge of a difference and I'm very aware of the Tesla's technology lead.
Werden die Zahnräder aus Kunststoff nicht sehr schnell abbrechen?
Wait wait 12s 3p ...so 50volt and you say 5000watt? Dont get me wrong but i hardly doubt that you pull 33amp per cell from the standard 18650s you used just because the voltage would drop down to 3v or lower at this load ...
Peter Zingler if you use high discharge cells 20amp. Like 30q, hg2. The voltage doesn't sag much at all
@@JRPW yeah sure it only sags to 3.5volt then,but he is using a 15amp Rated cell
@@peterzingler6221 Oh i misunderstood your first comment. Yeah the motors are definitely couldnt even do 2.5k watts for long. definitely over rated
Fully charged Battery at 50,4V. IR per cell is 20mOhm (DC iR from Datasheet), 3 in paralell is 6,3mOhm, 12 in series is 75mOhm
Lets calculate the theoretical maximum. I currently have a 75A Current Limit, but lets assume I set this to 90A say I go full throttle:
My Vescs pull 180A
180A * 0,075Ohm = 13,5V voltage drop inside my Battery
50,4V-13,5V= 36,9V Voltage going to my VESC (still above 3V per cell)
36,9V * 180A = 6642W so thats the amount of Power getting eaten from my vesc.
Thats where usually everybody stops and says that this is the power, but since there are a ton of losses at this current here is the real mechanical power that you would be measuring on a dyno:
Resistance of my vescs: 0,0011Ohm Resistance of Motors: 0,0225Ohm
(0,0011Ohm+0,0225Ohm)*180A²= 764,64W of Power loss in Motors and ESC
6642W-764,64W= 5877W MECHANICAL POWER
so yes, the 5kW is easily possible.
@@Pryside I loved your video and how informative it was. Are you an electrical engineer?
Ultimaker 3 OH YEAH
the extended version even :D
but thats not mine, just the printer of the company I work at
00:26 the Turkey power
Du flasht mich Dude! Woher weißt du den ganzen Stuff? Ich habs gerade noch geschafft ein Mellow Drive an ein Vanguard zu schrauben xP. Total geil!
Mellow an nem Vanguard wird aber auch ziemlich nice sein. Die ride Quality vom vanguard schlägt halt einfach alles andere :D
Internet und Bücher, die Information ist quazi gratis da draußen :)
i built my own E-Longboard too :D
the maximum speed is 52km/h and i have about 30 km range :3 it costed around 500€ and can easily beat a boosted board as well :D
well i used a diffent motor and different batteries BUT...
The main difference is that i dont use a BMS. discharging without a BMS is not a problem as long as you (how i do it) charge the batteries balanced, so they all have the same voltage.
in my case i had a special charger at home and didnt need to buy one but i mainly didnt use a BMS because i simply dont trust them.
the battery pack is the most expensive part of the longboard and i want to keep it good for a long time. For that reason i chose a proffesional charger and not a BMS
Saturos what esc have you bought?
yeah, thats pretty close to my first eBoard I built. I also didnt trust any BMS out there until I had the smart BMS. Now I can just look at all the cells with the app and never have to worry. :)
made even a video about it th-cam.com/video/QQW3uuzNnkg/w-d-xo.html
@@LucaFlati i used a FSESC 6.6 to run my Aerodrive sk3 213kv BLDC Motor. The FSESC6.6 can deliver 60A constantly and the motor can handle 65A. but i programmed the FSESC to a max current of 50A to keep everything cooler and dont run it on the limit.
50A are also just used when start rolling. while driving the motor pulls around 10 to 15A
i also used samsung 25R cells for the battery pack. i configured it a 10S5P pack so it has 42V and 12500mAh when fully charged.
with this setup i reach around 25 to 30 km of range and a max speed of 52 kmh
Saturos that's OP thanks for the info
You are brilliant!
Was geht ab jung schaut gut aus
i dont even ride but would buy simply cause of all the ingenuity and build quality...sub'd
Woher hast du die Motor Halterungen und wie hast du die Riemen Aufnahme an die Reifen gemacht
Hallo Leo,
Ich habe dein Anti Spark Switch nachgebaut jedoch ist dieser mir nach einer kleinen Testfahrt hochgeflogen. Ich vermute, dass die >60 Ampere zu viel für meinen Drahtwiederstand (axial, 50 W, 1 Ohm) waren. Dieser ist auch sichtbar kaputt gegangen.
Hast du einen Tipp, welcher Drahtwiederstand besser geeignet wäre oder liegt der Fehler doch wo anders?
Hi tim. Da hast du was falsch gebaut und die Funktion davon nicht verstanden. Kein strom fließt im betrieb über R3.
Von meim antispark gibts mitlerweile ein gut getestetes pcb, kannst dir mal anschauen verkauf ich im forum.
www.electric-skateboard.builders/t/3d-printed-boosted-board-killer/88803/177
@@Pryside
Okay danke 👍
I may sound dumb (because I don't know anything about batteries) why wouldn't you use Molicel INR-2100-P42A It is 4200mAh and 30A output.
Because they are 100% fake. Dont even need to look them up. The currently highest capacity battery is the Samsung 35E with 3,5Ah anything higher then that is definitly fake. Only namebrand batterys like LG, Panasonic, Samsung, Sanyo etc. are actually good, every other "vapecell" and whatever brand just buys LG cells rewraps them with a higher capacity and amp label and resells them.
the 30Q are still the best energy density and power density 18650.
Thanks for explaining.
Please stop recommending Anet A8 :) Test the Ender 3 instead! ;)
You are propably right, but I got my Anet fully upgraded better than almost anybody out there and it has 1500h of printtime so far and still works great. Thats why I still think its the best budget printer for 100€ absolutly unbeatable.
Maybe the ender has more features from the go, but currently I have no itentions of buying a new one. Since I can also use the Ultimaker 3 Ext. at my workplace. :)
Yes if you made various upgrades it should produce by far better prints, but then the overall price tag isn't 100€ ;) the ender 3 is currently the best beginners printer to start with.
Endlich mal ein neues Video
Great video and build!
Schick Designed!
You should sell premade sets too! I think its awesome your giving away the design for free but for people who don't want to do the extra work and are willing to pay for it you could profit off your time. Even find a 3rd party to handle all the business stuff for you, if you want of course. Will be trying my own build though! Thank you for you work!
Awesome Video! And the board looks incredible! Will you make any videos on riding it with a pov camera? I would like to see more of what it can do.
actually tried that a few times before but it just looks a little wierd. I can point the camera downwards that you see the board, but then you cant see anything of the environment and everything interesting disappears. I can point it forwards and you will see the environment I'm riding towards but you dont see anything of the board.
With a bike this is easy since a chestmounted gopro gives you a good sense of what the rider is riding and where, but on an electric skateboard all this sense of what I am riding disappears.
Nice video !!
Ich finde es schade dass du deine Projekte nicht mehr auf Deutsch vorstellst. Warum nutzt du nun ein BMS? Hast du inzwischen andere Zellen verbaut?
Warum ich ein bms nutz? Ja wie im video gesagt: zuverlässigkeit. Du kannst das ding 5000km fahren und musst außer riemen wechseln nix großes machen. Ja das sind andere zellen als bei meinem ersten eboard. Das sind samsung 30q
What are the essential knowledge perquisites for starting this kind of work?
Depends on what you already know and what exactly from this video you want to do yourself. If you know nothing get books about electronics or electrical drives. then google a lot and read a lot...
you need some curiosity and to be ok with getting bored. then youll get there
Have you ever thought about a "kill Switch" to throttle the speed to make it more legal on German streets?
If you could add a handrail and maximum speed of 20 kmh, it would be more legal.
Nevertheless, I'm thinking about building this.
Great Work!
there is no "more legal", its illegal.
Just staying away from main roads, not doing dumb shit and common sense should help getting busted less.
How is the ribbon cable electrically isolated from the rider? Is it only the griptape?
Some tape and the griptape, but it doesnt need isolation apart from each other since its only 50V fully charged anyway and safe to touch.
I want to turn this build into a dirt board version with snowboard like footstraps and rear mounted motors.
Would you support my decision? I'd use your stl files and arduino programs in order to run it all. :D
yeah maybe would be a nice idea. Personally I dont really like eMountainboards, they are too expensive and too heavy and destroy the purpose of a light electric vehicle I can carry around everywhere.
And my battery case is not really designe for that purpose. Its just 12S3P on a mountainbaord you generally want to have more capacity since its heavier anyway.
Wow !!!!! What an awesome job you've done 👍😊😅
How on Earth do you know how to do all of this ?
Google and learn how to do it
@@klorskarjar132 yes I could , but after 5 qualifications and 12 additional years of schooling I'm happy to just admire his talent. Thanks anyway
Hi Leo! I hope you can help me really quickly... I am DIYing my own E-Longboard right now and would like to add a TVS diode to my seltup as well. I am running on a 10S2P (18650) Setup with a Dual VESC 4.20. Can you please give me advice what TVS diode I should use? I think you run on a 12S setup right? Do the diode specs need to be any different between 12S and 10S? Thank you so much! Keep the good vids comming!!!! Cheers!
The tvs mentioned in the video and mentioned in the forum. 12S with tvs and low ir caps like EEUFR1J681L is ok. You could use a lower breakdown tvs but this diode is ok for all
@@Pryside Thank you very much for the quick answer! You are the best! Keep the good vids comin'
dein macher und optimierer geist hat mich überzeugt, abo :D
would it go faster if you put bigger tyres on it?
Hi Leo,
thanks for your video. It is very impressive. I have some questions:
1. in your previous video you were soldering the battery pack. Did you find any huge disadvantages compared to welding?
2. how did you integrate the smart bms? most can only handle up to 70A, but your setup must have at least the double.
Thanks.
Yes, in my first eBoard and also my very old eBike I used to solder the cells, I think its still an okay option if you have a somewhat powerful soldering iron. The main reason I switched to welding is because its way cleaner and theoretically doesnt stress the cells so much. Spotwelding saves quite some space and looks overall way nicer than soldering.
Even I use a 60A BMS. But these 60A are the rated constant current. Meaning 2500W constant power. Thats more than enough. The BMS can handle 250A peak easily.
Great video. Can you put a link of the TVS Diode you used for the vesc protection? I'm running a 10s3p battery (236.5W) battery and Vesc and 6374 149kv motors. Also, can you make a video on how to install the TVS Diode on the vesc.
Your TH-cam is everything I am looking for in life!! but! Qidi tech rules!!? 😆😁
haha glad you like it :)
Vielen Dank für das teilen :)
Why not use a marine capacitor bank? Lithium Battery only take 1200 charges and a capacitor bank will give you well over 1 million charges for a very long range with half the weight
Haha, would love to buy one but please show me the Ultracapacitors that have double the weight energy density then Liion.
Supercapacitors have terrible energy density, less than 60x that of a Lithium Ion Battery.
photonicswiki.org/index.php?title=File:Power_vs_energy_density.png