As an amateur but very keen wood turner I have certain woods which I treasure and only bring out when I'm feeling confident. This includes purpleheart. Just about a week ago I turned a small box in "brown"purpleheart and drilled the centre out with a Forstner bit. As the bit got hotter the shavings began to come out the most glorious purple colour. I thought I was imaging things and actually felt the shavings to see if they were just burning with the friction but they weren't. Having watched this video I am now certain there is a correlation between the wonderful colour of purpleheart and some form of heat. I hope this makes sense. Many thanks, Alan in Ireland.
Alan, It makes perfect sense. There is definitely a correlation, I use to stop right after sanding and leave my purpleheart out in the sun for a few days rotating it occasionally to accomplish what I can now do in a few seconds with a torch. Just don't hold the heat on it to long and you will have beautiful color. Regards, Bob
Thank you Alan, This new YT tool is showing me all the comments I missed over the years. Apologies for not responding sooner. I hope you're still watching and enjoying my videos. If you haven't checked out the channel for a while, please stop by and see some of the newer videos. I've made a bunch of the over the years. Regards, Bob
I can't wait until you do to see the amazing things you create. I still have the box of wood you sent me. I am planning to build one of your small stock jointing sleds and attempt some inside out turning with it. I will post some videos when I do. Thank you again for sending it to me.
Great tip Bob, i turned my first Purple heart Pen last night, the blank was a beautiful colour and after turning it looked crap, will try that and see how it goes.
+Warren Downes - One Wood Thank you Warren, Be sure to keep the torch moving as PH chars easy. I've been told a heat gun will give the same result with no charring but I haven't tried it. Regards, Bob
Thank you Steve, Just be sure to keep the torch moving, PH chars very easily. I'd recommend truing the blank then testing the torch. Then turn off what you did and try again. By the time you get to the bushings, you should be really good at the method. Regards, Bob
Good info Robert! I've done two purpleheart pens and both times I left them on the lathe for two days so they could turn purple. Will have to try this on the next one. I wonder what it would do to other woods. Burn marks would look cool too.
Steve, I updated the description with a note that a light sanding right after burning and right before polishing will give a much finer finished product. Regards, Bob
Thanks Brendan, I have also found that after heating the blank, it's a good idea to sand with some of the finer grits you take off any fuzzes that may form before polishing.
Hello Ted, I think it would have the potential to work with other photo sensitive woods that have similar properties to Purple Heart. I have tried Cherry because it's photo sensitive but it really didn't do anything. I haven't tried any other woods. Regards, Bob
Having worked with purple heart in many different projects, I have two questions. First, how do you ensure that after a year or two, the purple won't turn brown? It always does unless you put a UV blocking coat on it. I've tried the heating, microwaving method of stabilizing the color and it doesn't work. I put a test piece in my window after "stabilizing" in the microwave, (new windows, so some UV protection) for 6 months and the wood began to brown out, like all exotics do over time. Second, do you use a UV finish, like a marine varnish, to protect the color? In my experience, that's the ONLY way to keep the purple "purple" without going brown. UV interacts with the oils in the purple heart and oxidizes it, which will turn it brown in EVERY case over time. Marine varnish, I've found, is the best at keeping the purple "purple", but it will still eventually need to be re-sanded to revive the purple, and then re-coated in a marine varnish. This applies to everything like purple heart ... Paduk, red heart, or any vibrantly colored wood with perhaps the exception of Pink Ivory, which I"ve not seen change in UV ... but it's very, very expensive.
Thank you for sharing all of this information in the video comments. I am sure it will help many people and the comments are a great source to learn from. Regards, Bob
Thank you for the video. I have heard about this method but never saw it done. And I like that little torch, which seems perfect for the job. I will try this.
I'm glad you liked the video. That torch was under $20.00 at lowes, It converts to a heat gun, soldering iron and hot knife. It runs on butane and is very handy. Regards, Bob
I read that if you take your purpleheart wood, and leave it in the hot sun for a couple of days, it will go back to purple. I might try it on my walking cane.
I’ve heard that too but I’ve never tried it. It would be worth testing, you’ve got nothing to lose. I’ve also read it will fade back to brown over time. If it works you may have to repeat the process periodically to keep that beautiful color. I no longer have this pen so I don’t know if it fades or not. Regards, Bob
I've used stains and dipped the wood in , lit the stain and polished the gummy residue into the wood...never thought to burn the wood prior ... been playing with grayish purple heart and no luck .... thanks for the tip
Looks like you are using EEE polish. I get black residue on the wood when I use it so I went to Delrin bushings. I use Shellawax after that and it looks good right away but a few days later it is dull. Same results with box elder. I'm going to first coat it with sanding sealer before applying the Shellaax. A test sample looks good
I gave up on EEE and shellawax. I now use C/A and Renaissance wax or Plast-X. I like the results way better. I’m always looking for the next best finishing products. Regards, Bob
That is pretty quick. Never seen it done before. Are you concerned with the glue delaminating from the pen blank? I turn the pens put my finish on them before I assemble the pen I let it set in the sun for about 4 hours rotating it every hour. Then I will assemble the pen once it is purple again.
Hello Chad, I use to place my Purple Heart in the sun, I knew it was photo sensitive then one day I read that it oxidized with heat. I tried the torch and I've been doing it that way ever since. I'm not worried about de lamination of the glue because the blank never gets that hot, It's such a quick pass and I can touch the blank immediately. I do have to be very careful not to leave the heat in one place to long because the wood will char easily and that ruins the blank. Regards, Bob
After burning the wood sand it with some fine grit sandpaper it’ll smooth out the burnt bits and make it pop more it’s what the company I work for do when we make crochet hooks🤘 just a little advice for you to make the purple stand out more💪
Its a very interesting technique. I am always disappointed with purple heart as it offers so much promise as a blank but fails to deliver in the end. I will give it a go. thanks James
Heh. I keep stumbling in and asking rookie questions... I’ve heard that if you lay purpleheart in the sun it will purple up as well. How does it compare to the flame method? I’ve got a couple of blanks that are two or three projects away before they get worked. Awesome videos. Very watchable and learn a lot.
Place it on the dash of your car. The torch purples it up really quick and you can over do it easily. It also chars easily with the torch if you hold it on to long. Regards, Bob
+Andrew Morrissette I've never used Mylands. I've used Hut Friction Polish and Shella Wax. I'd give Shella Wax the edge as I think it finishes out nicer. I only use friction polish for things that won't be handled often. It will wear off of a pen in no time with all the oils in the hand. Regards, Bob
Hello Mike, I have used it on many things but none of them were wood related. I remembered a guy telling me about heating Purpleheart and oxidizing it so I got out the torch and gave it a try. It worked so well that I just wanted to share it with everyone.
+huskyfluffy Hello, I usually apply several coats of medium C/A then micro mesh it down. I will apply more if there are still grain marks. It sometimes takes several applications. Regards, Bob
I have not tried that but would be interested in your results if you do. Are you thinking of putting it in the oven before or after turning? After would probably be better but to much heat on a finished project could warp it if there's much moisture in the wood. Regards, Bob
I'm actually not turning this piece, but shaping freehand. I googled after I asked you and found out that people are doing it just prior to finishing, with a light sanding, polishing, and so forth that you do in the video. Recommended time is one hour at 300 degrees for best results!
+RJBWoodTurner To update: I brought the purpleheart up to 320 grit last night using a palm sander and also by hand. Then I used a plain piece of paper in the palm sander to give it a shine, but mostly to remove dust particles in the pores of the wood before placing the piece in the oven. I suspected dust particles were what was causing the raised wood effect you were experiencing in the video, and wanted to test my theory out. Today, after 20 minutes at 300 degrees F, I flipped on the broiler for two minutes and that is all she needed (even with the oven rack placed very low in the oven). It was much more of a deep purple than I had initially wanted or anticipated, but am happy with results. *It is less of a deep purple than what you created above, so I am guessing a higher temp and leave in longer (or just use the broiler from the get go) would create similar results achieved above. [...see below for what I found out at the International Association of Pen Turners.] While the wood was still warm/hot, I gently buffed by hand with a soft cloth which helped smooth out the color and sanding lines. *I did not notice any raising of the grain so my theory may be correct. Afterward, I sanded with 600 and 1500 grit. I used plain computer paper both in-between and after the 1500. With some woods I do not like the pronounced, open grain effect, but with woods like purpleheart and paduak, it really enhances the figure and makes it shine! Now I am just going to leave it in the sun for a few days to see what difference that makes. (Yes, I have been reading way too much in the online forums.) The only thing I have left to do is a UV protectant like Armour-All or STP to maintain the woods color, and stop the wood from turning a deeper purple or back to brown/black. I used this technique with both purpleheart and paduak in the late 80s and the wood has yet to turn color. Who knows, I may even try some lacquer as that was recommended in several forums as an additional protectant to the color and finish. But right now, I'm really happy with the results. This is the link for the pen turners association that spoke of placing the pen blanks in the oven with barrels intact at varying degrees of temperature. To tell you the truth, mine turned out more of a darker purple than whats pictured here. Your results may vary. www.penturners.org/forum/f28/purple-heart-oven-3798/ Anyhow, it is time for me to clean up and enjoy the rest of my day before the clock strikes. Best of luck and have a Happy New Year!!!
Thank you for Sharing your findings and the IAP article with me. This is very intriguing, I'm going to have to try the oven next time I turn PH. Regards, Bob
RJB I have just begun turning pens, an adder for a successful part-time career in multiple woodworking venues going back to 1971. I currently own and operate Tsunami Guitars, (www.tsunamiguitars.com), and often use purpleheart. I would never heat (burn) it to try and regain the color. As a matter of your own video, you can plainly see the char points you didn't polish out. Maybe you like that. I find it just burnt... The truth is that purpleheart turns really purple very quickly if left out in the sun and open air for about a day or two. I do plan on some purpleheart pens in the future, and plan on letting them sit in the window with full sun for a day or so. I have read studies that it is the nitrogen in the atmosphere, or the ultraviolet rays of the sun. But whatever, it turns naturally purple with sunlight and air. Burning is something I would never do, unless I was looking for the burnt look. BTW, I enjoy your videos, they have helped me quickly come up to speed on high quality pens as an adder to my other products. Thanks!!
+Tsunamiguitars Hello, Thank you for watching and commenting, I'm glad you enjoy my videos. You are correct that using a flame can cause charring to the wood. I only use this method when I am constrained on time, my preferred method is natural sunlight. I did have some charring on the blank in this video however, I have perfected this method and can turn the blank quickly with no charring. I have to work quick because its a fine line between finished and burnt. Recently one of my viewers experimented with baking PH at 110 degrees for a short period of time and had some success in purpling up the wood.Regards,Bob
I tried this torch method and the result was phenomenal! The color was a beautiful deep purple - eggplant 🍆. I also tried it with Pink Ivory with no luck. Apparently Pink Ivory does not have the same photosensitive properties, so best to make sure the blank you buy has the level of pink you want.
I’ve been woodworking for a few years now, but have only recently bought a lathe. Let me take a moment to thank you (and everyone else) for producing informative video; your assistance has been invaluable.
Well, I tried the heat gun and it works. However, I've found that the freshly exposed wood will oxidize on its own, over a few days, to a much more uniform color than with the heat method.
+TysonTurns 04 Yes it was, I still have the lathe but the potentiometer went out for a second time. I have a idea for repairing it and have purchased all the parts, I just need a little time to repair It and I think it's going to become my kids lathe. The're starting to take an interest in turning and it's a great little lathe. Regards, Bob
+RJBWoodTurner yes it is a great little lathe that's what I started out on and I still have it and how old are your kids I was 10 when I started turning pens and been doing it for a year and I am saving up for a new one
can i torch it using acetylene and oxygen for the same result or will it just shred through the purple heart? guessing it will but would just waving it against it for a very short period of time do the trick?
Hi, after watching lots of your videos I made my first pen today! I finished it with superglue but instead of polishing with micro mesh I just used wet and dry then finished with diamond paste that I already had. (It is cheap to by from china). I polished using all grades from 5 microns to 0.25 microns. I can't believe the results. Here is a photo... www.flickr.com/photos/jcreasey/24351321981/in/dateposted-public/ I can't wait to make my next pen! Thanks for making it so easy by showing the steps.
Hello John, The pens looks great! There is no right or wrong way to finish a pen. As long as you get the desired results you've got the right method. I've seen guys use tooth paste. Keep up the great work and keep experimenting you'll find stuff you like better and stuff you'll never use again. Regards, Bob
+Jason Chang That's a very good question Jason. I would say give it a try on a piece of scrap. One thing though, lighters are inefficient and leave soot. You may need a little clean up after the test. If you do try this, let me know the results, it's a very interesting question. Regards, Bob
PH will turn purple after milling/sanding by simply putting it in a sunny spot for a few hours-and it won't burn. Saying that, it will eventually turn brown, seemingly no matter the finish. Sad but true...
Seems that the idea is to heat the Purple Heart oils and raise them to the surface of the wood. I would suggest prior to putting in the brass tube you microwave it until there ils show on the flat edges. Insert the tube and shape the pen and finish. If not a microwave then a heat gun to avoid an open flame. If your shop is like mine I do a lot of pens at once and there are shavings all around me. Safety first. Very nice idea.
+Charles Seguin I'd like to get a heat gun as I've been told it works just as well. I'm not sure how though because PH is photosensitive not heat sensitive. I want to try it out and see what happens. Regards, Bob
some dude that sold me purpleheart told me, that im gonna be disappointed when I cut the blank and that I just have to let it sit in the sun for some time. The UV light should make it purple. never tried it tho
I recently purchased a heat torch and haven't had an opportunity to give it a try. If it oxidizes the wood as well as the flame, it will be my preferred method because it is a whole lot safer. Thank you for your comment and suggestion, I may make a short video demonstrating the torch if my test goes well. Regards, Bob
its a shame this have come out with black spots another way that isnt as fast takes about a day but comes out way nicer is to use acetone and uv light the acetone brings the stuff that goes purple to the surface and the uv light helps oxidise it
The torch was moved slowly and inconsistently which caused some slight burning. In my opinion if the torch was moved steadily at an even speed from one end to the other and back until the desired darkness was achieved it would avoid the charred look. Otherwise it brought out some really nice colouring.
![[Part 1] ทารกน้อยถูกทิ้ง👶 หญิงชราเก็บขวดขายเลี้ยงดูเขาจนโต #โลกการละคร](http://i.ytimg.com/vi/nPTDvFCExks/mqdefault.jpg)
You can also use a heat gun with very nice results and no charring, I finished with a CA finish after and it looks great!
Thank you Stephanie.
Regards,
Bob
Wow, that was quite a tip; I'm definitely going to be using that. I'm quite impressed at how well that worked.
Thank you very much for the video!
Thank you Bruce,
Just don't hold the torch in one place to long, it can char the wood.
Regards,
Bob
I enjoyed watching that, Robert. That little torch does a nice job at bringing out the color.
Thanks Ron, A fella showed me that a while back and I thought I'd share it with everyone else.
As an amateur but very keen wood turner I have certain woods which I treasure and only bring out when I'm feeling confident. This includes purpleheart.
Just about a week ago I turned a small box in "brown"purpleheart and drilled the centre out with a Forstner bit.
As the bit got hotter the shavings began to come out the most glorious purple colour.
I thought I was imaging things and actually felt the shavings to see if they were just burning with the friction but they weren't.
Having watched this video I am now certain there is a correlation between the wonderful colour of purpleheart and some form of heat.
I hope this makes sense.
Many thanks,
Alan in Ireland.
Alan,
It makes perfect sense. There is definitely a correlation, I use to stop right after sanding and leave my purpleheart out in the sun for a few days rotating it occasionally to accomplish what I can now do in a few seconds with a torch. Just don't hold the heat on it to long and you will have beautiful color.
Regards,
Bob
Hello Bob,
That's fascinating and reinforces my love of wood.
Many thanks for getting back to me.
Alan.
Thank you Alan,
This new YT tool is showing me all the comments I missed over the years. Apologies for not responding sooner.
I hope you're still watching and enjoying my videos.
If you haven't checked out the channel for a while, please stop by and see some of the newer videos.
I've made a bunch of the over the years.
Regards,
Bob
Pretty cool. I'll get a lathe one day...
I can't wait until you do to see the amazing things you create. I still have the box of wood you sent me. I am planning to build one of your small stock jointing sleds and attempt some inside out turning with it. I will post some videos when I do. Thank you again for sending it to me.
Have you picked up your lathe yet? I just bought one on the weekend.
Great tip Bob, i turned my first Purple heart Pen last night, the blank was a beautiful colour and after turning it looked crap, will try that and see how it goes.
+Warren Downes - One Wood Thank you Warren,
Be sure to keep the torch moving as PH chars easy. I've been told a heat gun will give the same result with no charring but I haven't tried it.
Regards,
Bob
Thank you Robert for sharing your experience.
Sometimes it pays to play with fire. :-)
Greetings from Good Old Germany
Peter
You're welcome Peter, Great to hear from you.
Omg. I can't believe I'm.now just discovering your channel. I'm gonna add flame to my purple heart. Nice
Thanks again
Great idea. I have been shying away from purple heart because of the color change. Now I will have to try one with your method. Thanks!
Thank you Steve,
Just be sure to keep the torch moving, PH chars very easily. I'd recommend truing the blank then testing the torch. Then turn off what you did and try again. By the time you get to the bushings, you should be really good at the method.
Regards,
Bob
Good info Robert! I've done two purpleheart pens and both times I left them on the lathe for two days so they could turn purple. Will have to try this on the next one. I wonder what it would do to other woods. Burn marks would look cool too.
Steve,
I updated the description with a note that a light sanding right after burning and right before polishing will give a much finer finished product.
Regards,
Bob
This is an amazing tip. I thought it was sunshine that got the purple back but now I've realised it's heat. Super tip.
Best Wishes, Brendan.
Thanks Brendan, I have also found that after heating the blank, it's a good idea to sand with some of the finer grits you take off any fuzzes that may form before polishing.
I like the torching technique, thinking it would work well with lots of different woods. Thanks for the video!
Hello Ted,
I think it would have the potential to work with other photo sensitive woods that have similar properties to Purple Heart. I have tried Cherry because it's photo sensitive but it really didn't do anything. I haven't tried any other woods.
Regards,
Bob
I am really enjoying watching you channel. I just purchased a pen lathe an am looking forward to turning my first pen.
+Gillfish3 Congrats on the lathe, this hobby is a blast, you're going to love turning.
Regards,
Bob
Having worked with purple heart in many different projects, I have two questions.
First, how do you ensure that after a year or two, the purple won't turn brown? It always does unless you put a UV blocking coat on it.
I've tried the heating, microwaving method of stabilizing the color and it doesn't work. I put a test piece in my window after "stabilizing" in the microwave, (new windows, so some UV protection) for 6 months and the wood began to brown out, like all exotics do over time.
Second, do you use a UV finish, like a marine varnish, to protect the color? In my experience, that's the ONLY way to keep the purple "purple" without going brown. UV interacts with the oils in the purple heart and oxidizes it, which will turn it brown in EVERY case over time. Marine varnish, I've found, is the best at keeping the purple "purple", but it will still eventually need to be re-sanded to revive the purple, and then re-coated in a marine varnish.
This applies to everything like purple heart ... Paduk, red heart, or any vibrantly colored wood with perhaps the exception of Pink Ivory, which I"ve not seen change in UV ... but it's very, very expensive.
Thank you for sharing all of this information in the video comments. I am sure it will help many people and the comments are a great source to learn from.
Regards,
Bob
Thank you for the video. I have heard about this method but never saw it done. And I like that little torch, which seems perfect for the job. I will try this.
I'm glad you liked the video. That torch was under $20.00 at lowes, It converts to a heat gun, soldering iron and hot knife. It runs on butane and is very handy.
Regards,
Bob
I read that if you take your purpleheart wood, and leave it in the hot sun for a couple of days, it will go back to purple. I might try it on my walking cane.
I’ve heard that too but I’ve never tried it. It would be worth testing, you’ve got nothing to lose. I’ve also read it will fade back to brown over time. If it works you may have to repeat the process periodically to keep that beautiful color. I no longer have this pen so I don’t know if it fades or not.
Regards,
Bob
I've used stains and dipped the wood in , lit the stain and polished the gummy residue into the wood...never thought to burn the wood prior ... been playing with grayish purple heart and no luck .... thanks for the tip
Thank oh Matthew.
Regards,
Bob
That is amazing
Thank you.
Thank you. I am working with purple heart and trying to find ways to bring the color out before lacquer finish. RH DSD
+DIOSpeedDemon Thank you,
Regards,
Bob
Looks like you are using EEE polish. I get black residue on the wood when I use it so I went to Delrin bushings. I use Shellawax after that and it looks good right away but a few days later it is dull. Same results with box elder. I'm going to first coat it with sanding sealer before applying the Shellaax. A test sample looks good
I gave up on EEE and shellawax. I now use C/A and Renaissance wax or Plast-X. I like the results way better. I’m always looking for the next best finishing products.
Regards,
Bob
Great tip..Thanks!!! Flamed Purple Heart....going to try out on my blank..might look good on other species too..im going to experiment..
Thank you.
Trick is don’t leave the heat on to long.
Regards,
Bob
Thanks for the great tip Bob. I'll not be so shy about PH now.
Take care, Dave
Thank you David.
Regards,
Bob
That is amazing. Great method. Thanks for sharing.
Thanks Mitchell.
Pretty neat. Wonder if the torch technique will work for other woods? Great video.
So far I haven't found any others but you never know.
Regards,
Bob
RJBWoodTurner Oh OK. Thanks.
That is pretty quick. Never seen it done before. Are you concerned with the glue delaminating from the pen blank?
I turn the pens put my finish on them before I assemble the pen I let it set in the sun for about 4 hours rotating it every hour. Then I will assemble the pen once it is purple again.
Hello Chad,
I use to place my Purple Heart in the sun, I knew it was photo sensitive then one day I read that it oxidized with heat. I tried the torch and I've been doing it that way ever since.
I'm not worried about de lamination of the glue because the blank never gets that hot, It's such a quick pass and I can touch the blank immediately.
I do have to be very careful not to leave the heat in one place to long because the wood will char easily and that ruins the blank.
Regards,
Bob
Thank you for clearing that up.
After burning the wood sand it with some fine grit sandpaper it’ll smooth out the burnt bits and make it pop more it’s what the company I work for do when we make crochet hooks🤘 just a little advice for you to make the purple stand out more💪
Thank you, awesome advise, I appreciate it.
Regards,
Bob
No worries bud hope it works for you
Also not sure if you already do this but once sanded seal with super glue also gives it a shinier finish💪
Its a very interesting technique. I am always disappointed with purple heart as it offers so much promise as a blank but fails to deliver in the end. I will give it a go.
thanks
James
+icespeckledhens Thank you James,
Just don't leave the torch on the wood to long.
Regards,
Bob
Beautiful, thanks bob
+Val Borchardt Thank you Val.
Regards,
Bob
Very cool Robert!!
Thanks Chris.
Heh. I keep stumbling in and asking rookie questions... I’ve heard that if you lay purpleheart in the sun it will purple up as well. How does it compare to the flame method? I’ve got a couple of blanks that are two or three projects away before they get worked. Awesome videos. Very watchable and learn a lot.
Place it on the dash of your car. The torch purples it up really quick and you can over do it easily. It also chars easily with the torch if you hold it on to long.
Regards,
Bob
Awesome. Where can I buy a small bottle of that wax from.
Hello Kevin,
I purchased that at www.pennstateind.com
Regards,
Bob
You got it lit
Thank you.
Regards,
Bob
I like the purpleheart on the pen, really nice. I have never seen it here in Canada. I will have to do some looking around.
Thank you Gary,
It is beautiful wood, I hope you are able to get your hands on some.
@@RJBWoodTurner you can buy Purple Heart from Windsor plywood
Thanks!
Thank you Edward.
Regards,
Bob
You got skills sir!
Thank you very much.
Regards,
Bob
Have you used mylands friction polish? What do you think of it?
+Andrew Morrissette I've never used Mylands. I've used Hut Friction Polish and Shella Wax. I'd give Shella Wax the edge as I think it finishes out nicer. I only use friction polish for things that won't be handled often. It will wear off of a pen in no time with all the oils in the hand.
Regards,
Bob
great video , love the finish, how often do u use a ca , vs others
+Brian Sowers Hello Brian,
I use C/A on almost every pen I make. It's my favorite finish.
Regards,
Bob
Wow Bob, that is fantastic. Have you used the torch on other things not on the lathe?
Hello Mike,
I have used it on many things but none of them were wood related. I remembered a guy telling me about heating Purpleheart and oxidizing it so I got out the torch and gave it a try. It worked so well that I just wanted to share it with everyone.
Hi. How do you fill the grain? A couple of pieces my husband has made do have that fiber like quality.
+huskyfluffy Hello,
I usually apply several coats of medium C/A then micro mesh it down. I will apply more if there are still grain marks. It sometimes takes several applications.
Regards,
Bob
sorry, whats is C/A?
+huskyfluffy cyano Acrylate, aka super glue. I use if as a finish.
Wow! Can’t wait to try this! Are there any other types of wood you found this technique works well on? Your videos are great! Keep it up!
Also, do you do this before CA glue?
Not really, this so far I’d the only one.
Regards,
Bob
Yes, before the C/A.
Regards,
Bob
Molto bello. Una domanda dove posso aquistare l'attrezzo per fare le penne grazie
I buy everything from a company called Penn State Industries. www.pennstateind.com
Regards,
Bob
This is a really neat tip. Have you tried putting larger pieces in the oven? I'm working with Purple Heart now and am curious whether this would work.
I have not tried that but would be interested in your results if you do. Are you thinking of putting it in the oven before or after turning? After would probably be better but to much heat on a finished project could warp it if there's much moisture in the wood.
Regards,
Bob
I'm actually not turning this piece, but shaping freehand. I googled after I asked you and found out that people are doing it just prior to finishing, with a light sanding, polishing, and so forth that you do in the video. Recommended time is one hour at 300 degrees for best results!
This is very interesting, I'm going to have to give it a try myself. Thank you for sharging the info with me.
Regards,
Bob
+RJBWoodTurner To update: I brought the purpleheart up to 320 grit last night using a palm sander and also by hand. Then I used a plain piece of paper in the palm sander to give it a shine, but mostly to remove dust particles in the pores of the wood before placing the piece in the oven. I suspected dust particles were what was causing the raised wood effect you were experiencing in the video, and wanted to test my theory out.
Today, after 20 minutes at 300 degrees F, I flipped on the broiler for two minutes and that is all she needed (even with the oven rack placed very low in the oven). It was much more of a deep purple than I had initially wanted or anticipated, but am happy with results. *It is less of a deep purple than what you created above, so I am guessing a higher temp and leave in longer (or just use the broiler from the get go) would create similar results achieved above. [...see below for what I found out at the International Association of Pen Turners.]
While the wood was still warm/hot, I gently buffed by hand with a soft cloth which helped smooth out the color and sanding lines. *I did not notice any raising of the grain so my theory may be correct.
Afterward, I sanded with 600 and 1500 grit. I used plain computer paper both in-between and after the 1500. With some woods I do not like the pronounced, open grain effect, but with woods like purpleheart and paduak, it really enhances the figure and makes it shine!
Now I am just going to leave it in the sun for a few days to see what difference that makes. (Yes, I have been reading way too much in the online forums.)
The only thing I have left to do is a UV protectant like Armour-All or STP to maintain the woods color, and stop the wood from turning a deeper purple or back to brown/black. I used this technique with both purpleheart and paduak in the late 80s and the wood has yet to turn color.
Who knows, I may even try some lacquer as that was recommended in several forums as an additional protectant to the color and finish. But right now, I'm really happy with the results.
This is the link for the pen turners association that spoke of placing the pen blanks in the oven with barrels intact at varying degrees of temperature. To tell you the truth, mine turned out more of a darker purple than whats pictured here. Your results may vary. www.penturners.org/forum/f28/purple-heart-oven-3798/
Anyhow, it is time for me to clean up and enjoy the rest of my day before the clock strikes. Best of luck and have a Happy New Year!!!
Thank you for Sharing your findings and the IAP article with me. This is very intriguing, I'm going to have to try the oven next time I turn PH.
Regards,
Bob
RJB I have just begun turning pens, an adder for a successful part-time career in multiple woodworking venues going back to 1971. I currently own and operate Tsunami Guitars, (www.tsunamiguitars.com), and often use purpleheart. I would never heat (burn) it to try and regain the color. As a matter of your own video, you can plainly see the char points you didn't polish out. Maybe you like that. I find it just burnt...
The truth is that purpleheart turns really purple very quickly if left out in the sun and open air for about a day or two. I do plan on some purpleheart pens in the future, and plan on letting them sit in the window with full sun for a day or so. I have read studies that it is the nitrogen in the atmosphere, or the ultraviolet rays of the sun. But whatever, it turns naturally purple with sunlight and air. Burning is something I would never do, unless I was looking for the burnt look.
BTW, I enjoy your videos, they have helped me quickly come up to speed on high quality pens as an adder to my other products. Thanks!!
+Tsunamiguitars Hello, Thank you for watching and commenting, I'm glad you enjoy my videos. You are correct that using a flame can cause charring to the wood. I only use this method when I am constrained on time, my preferred method is natural sunlight. I did have some charring on the blank in this video however, I have perfected this method and can turn the blank quickly with no charring. I have to work quick because its a fine line between finished and burnt. Recently one of my viewers experimented with baking PH at 110 degrees for a short period of time and had some success in purpling up the wood.Regards,Bob
oh my wow. big difference. thanks for sharing that with us
You tried it, that's great!
Did you have any trouble with charring? Usually as long as you keep the torch moving it does a great job.
Regards,
Bob
I tried this torch method and the result was phenomenal! The color was a beautiful deep purple - eggplant 🍆. I also tried it with Pink Ivory with no luck. Apparently Pink Ivory does not have the same photosensitive properties, so best to make sure the blank you buy has the level of pink you want.
I’m so happy this method worked for you. 😃
How does it look after exposure to UV, such as in sunlight?
+Bob Blarney UV will bring out the purple naturally. I gave this pen away so I'm not sure how it looks now.
Regards,
Bob
Very interesting; have you tried a heat gun instead?
+PEZ4949 I have not, only because I don't yet own one, but I know other woodworkers who have and they've gotten good results.
Regards,
Bob
I’ve been woodworking for a few years now, but have only recently bought a lathe. Let me take a moment to thank you (and everyone else) for producing informative video; your assistance has been invaluable.
+PEZ4949 Thank you,
I appreciate your words and I'm glad I could help.
Regards,
Bob
Well, I tried the heat gun and it works. However, I've found that the freshly exposed wood will oxidize on its own, over a few days, to a much more uniform color than with the heat method.
Is that the ryobi mini lathe that's what I use and it sounds so much like it
+TysonTurns 04 Yes it was,
I still have the lathe but the potentiometer went out for a second time. I have a idea for repairing it and have purchased all the parts, I just need a little time to repair It and I think it's going to become my kids lathe. The're starting to take an interest in turning and it's a great little lathe.
Regards,
Bob
+RJBWoodTurner yes it is a great little lathe that's what I started out on and I still have it and how old are your kids I was 10 when I started turning pens and been doing it for a year and I am saving up for a new one
+TysonTurns 04 They were 8 when I first let them turn a pen. Now there 12.
can i torch it using acetylene and oxygen for the same result or will it just shred through the purple heart? guessing it will but would just waving it against it for a very short period of time do the trick?
I’ve seen people use a heat gun.
I’ve seen people use a heat gun.
If possible is there a way to laminate acrylics?
+lawrence burckhard Do you mean making acrylic laminate or cutting acrylic blanks and inserting laminate. I think both are possible.
Regards,
Bob
Hi, after watching lots of your videos I made my first pen today!
I finished it with superglue but instead of polishing with micro mesh I just used wet and dry then finished with diamond paste that I already had. (It is cheap to by from china). I polished using all grades from 5 microns to 0.25 microns. I can't believe the results. Here is a photo...
www.flickr.com/photos/jcreasey/24351321981/in/dateposted-public/
I can't wait to make my next pen!
Thanks for making it so easy by showing the steps.
Hello John,
The pens looks great! There is no right or wrong way to finish a pen. As long as you get the desired results you've got the right method. I've seen guys use tooth paste.
Keep up the great work and keep experimenting you'll find stuff you like better and stuff you'll never use again.
Regards,
Bob
Thanks Bob!
can i use a lighter instead of a torch?
+Jason Chang That's a very good question Jason.
I would say give it a try on a piece of scrap. One thing though, lighters are inefficient and leave soot. You may need a little clean up after the test. If you do try this, let me know the results, it's a very interesting question.
Regards,
Bob
hiya bob, havent seen you for a while, you ok???
+Val Borchardt Hello Val,
I'm doing fine, we're getting ready for a holiday. Thank you for asking.
Bob
it also helps if you put it out in the sun.
+Cooper Hanson Thank you Cooper.
Regards,
Bob
PH will turn purple after milling/sanding by simply putting it in a sunny spot for a few hours-and it won't burn. Saying that, it will eventually turn brown, seemingly no matter the finish. Sad but true...
+roscoe jones It always goes back to a brown. That's photo sensitive wood. To bad.
Bob
Seems that the idea is to heat the Purple Heart oils and raise them to the surface of the wood. I would suggest prior to putting in the brass tube you microwave it until there ils show on the flat edges. Insert the tube and shape the pen and finish. If not a microwave then a heat gun to avoid an open flame. If your shop is like mine I do a lot of pens at once and there are shavings all around me. Safety first. Very nice idea.
+Charles Seguin I'd like to get a heat gun as I've been told it works just as well. I'm not sure how though because PH is photosensitive not heat sensitive. I want to try it out and see what happens.
Regards,
Bob
I think it looked better before you burned it.
He just burned it too long. You heat the wood not burn it.
some dude that sold me purpleheart told me, that im gonna be disappointed when I cut the blank and that I just have to let it sit in the sun for some time. The UV light should make it purple. never tried it tho
Thank you.
Might I suggest that using Fire is not a good option. A heat gun is the wiser method. Fire and wood is quite combustible combination.
I recently purchased a heat torch and haven't had an opportunity to give it a try. If it oxidizes the wood as well as the flame, it will be my preferred method because it is a whole lot safer. Thank you for your comment and suggestion, I may make a short video demonstrating the torch if my test goes well.
Regards,
Bob
It won't be as fast but you will have more control
No CA finish?
This is a very old video, back then I wasn’t doing C/A yet. That came much later.
Bob I used a heat gun to do this
I'll have to try that Eddie, thanks for letting me know.
Thats actually just dark burgundy color... There are no purple shades in this...
😃
its a shame this have come out with black spots another way that isnt as fast takes about a day but comes out way nicer is to use acetone and uv light the acetone brings the stuff that goes purple to the surface and the uv light helps oxidise it
Thanks for the info Anthony.
Regards,
Bob
The left and right ends look burnt.
The torch was moved slowly and inconsistently which caused some slight burning. In my opinion if the torch was moved steadily at an even speed from one end to the other and back until the desired darkness was achieved it would avoid the charred look. Otherwise it brought out some really nice colouring.
They will burn if you hold the torch on there to
Long.
Je
😃
Still burnt at both ends!
😃
Man it’s nice but it’s not purple
😃
Set your purple heart out in the sun on a nice summer day will bring out purple as well.
Thank you William.
Regards,
Bob