S&W SD40 VE AND SD9 VE Polymer Guide Rod vs. Aftermarket Stainless Steel Replacement Viewer Rebuttal
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- เผยแพร่เมื่อ 10 ม.ค. 2025
- A brief description to answer questions about the guide rod and also as a response because of the criticism I've received about my commentary about using a stainless steel aftermarket guide rod to replace the factory polymer one and my recommendation of not doing so.
i think you explained it perfectly .if anybody still don't understand maybe they went to school on a short bus.
Thank you for explaining so well I was just about to order stainless guide rods but will order polymer instead …don’t want to take a chance with damaging the frame
You're welcome, thank you for watching. This is primarily a self defense carry pistol, my safety for it to function is my primary concern.
Most likely this would be used within a few feet for self defense, changing the rod isn't of great benefit.
One website selling these has this info and I just do not believe it. Side note, this negates any warranty as well ...
"NDZ Performance stainless steel guide rods provide a decisive advantage for all Smith & Wesson SD9VE SD40VE owners. Special features include a rigid stainless-steel body that improves lock up by completely removing "guide rod flex". The hex screw removable tip allows the user to choose various spring weights that will calibrate the ammunition to their pistol. Will not chip or crack like the factory plastic guide rods are prone to do. Will not damage or wear your polymer frame and guaranteed to provide a lifetime of reliable service."
Very well done!!! Thank you for posting this video!!! I've been saying the same thing for several years.
Awesome, thanks for watching especially. That is nice to see we're not crazy!
should i buy a sd9 or sd40 for my first gun i wana be able to rapid fire fast but i heard they have hard triggers im kinda nervous the sd40 trigger is gonna b too hard and is the slide harder then the sd9
@@whiteztrynmakeit I recommend the SD9. Trigger and recoil springs are the same between them. With the heavier bullets the 40 uses, that makes it a handful for first time shooters.
I have the 40 and the 9, the 9 is much easier to be on target with, and that's the name of the game.
ETA: really, the best answer is to shop around. There are a lot of pistols in this price range that are very good. The Taurus G series is very good. Canik makes a fine pistol also.
I personally bought the SDVE'S because S&W is domestically made.
@@GB-zi6qr thanks i think im gonna get the 9 with a apex trigger
@@whiteztrynmakeit I can be accused of being a S&W, SDVE fanboy. I have them and like them. However, I'm not going to say "Everyone NEEDS one".
I would like to point out, S&W has just released the SD9 2.0. This thing looks very interesting .
Mossberg has their MC2C, which is about the same size and close to the same price range.
The Taurus G series is also very good for the price.
IWI has their Massada, which is supposed to be in this price range also.
I guess my point is to try and help you find other firearms in this price range so you can make a more informed decision.
What works for me may not be best for you.
While a lot of people talk up the Apex trigger mod, (yeah, even me), test the factory trigger first.
The last thing, if you go with the SD9 VE, and the Apex trigger mod, don't discard or throw away the original parts. Should you have to send the firearm back to S&W for repairs, reset the firearm back to original. They will replace your after market parts with factory parts and NOT return your after market parts.
Best of luck to you.
Thanks, I will put the polymer one back in!!!
People dont like "Plastic" but it is made well today which is why Glocks use them too as well as other manufacturers.
Ive read too many Glock posts where they used an after market stainless rod and their gun broke. Glocks cost more than these do on top of that.
Thank you for this video I dam shore was about to get a stainless one much appreciated
Thank you, the stainless is okay in pistols with metal backing behind it but these dont have that. The polymer does that job anyways … as explained. Food enough for Glocks and other top end pistols, good enough for me. Thank you for way hing, greatly appdeciated.
I put the stainless guide rod and have shot about 500 rounds with it perfectly. Now I am worried and will have to look for the plastic one.
And of course there are variables involved that contribute so you may have a stainless steel rod you installed and have had no issues but some people have. Is it +P ammo? Higher pressured NATO 9mm? 115gr, 124gr, 147gr?
I am not saying if you use a stainless steel rod that you WILL ruin your gun. Im just pointing out it "can" and it has to other people.
I believe it’s messes your gun up mine is sherred off from a titanium quide rod an hunt an I shoot a lot of 40 rounds I gotta try too send it in my gun shooting in front of me not even five yards that how I knew something was wrong with my sd40ve over a steel quide rods don’t use them if u don’t want your gun messed up ❤❤❤❤thank u for the video it was interesting an it’s showed me what’s wrong with my gun
I have not replaced the polymer guide rod in my g20 gen 3 for that specific. It appears to be metal on polymer contact and that's not good.
I shoot very heavy bullets most of the time and have not had an issue with the polymer.
Seems to me (at least for Glock and this S&W design) A metal guide rod is a waste of money and can damaged the irreplaceable serialized part of the pistol.
Correct, I agree 100%
Great video. What you say is correct. Ipurchased a s/s guide rod and took it out and put the oem back. If you want to destroy your gun keep the s/steel in, simple as that.
Thanks for the insight on this modification. Do you know if there are options to purchase a better recoil spring using the polymer guide rod?
Not that I know of ... I got my spares at Midwest Gun Works. They were cheap to buy ... factory OEM parts. They're just under $9 and the recoil rod and spring are one unit and fit both the 9mm and the 40 cal. www.midwestgunworks.com/page/mgwi/prod/251350000
I just got one used. I'm still new to guns and I have a question for you. When I put the guide rod in and put the firearm back together and pull the slide back I hear a click when I open it back up I noticed the guide rod is crooked I fixed and again it happened. I was wondering if you had any idea why this is happening and how to fix this? Thank you in advance
Is it the polymer guide rod that came with it? Or an after market stainless steel one? You obviously cannot shoot it like it is as that recoil spring needs to be seated properly.
I'm wondering if the frame is cracked where I stated it cracks in my video. Can you tell by inspecting it? Watch my video and you will see what to look for.
The guide rod once the fire arm is reassembled should not be out of kilter upon usage.
Also a possibility is it needs a new guide rod as they are polymer and they wear and fail.
Good news? I bought mine for about $5 which I've not used yet but have as a spare. Midwest Gun Works has them in stock for $8.66 ea.
@megatrends I think you're right about the plastic guide rod. I found out that this .40 was originally purchased in 2016, and after inspecting it I can see the guide rod is worn enough that it no longer fits flat to the bottom of the barrel. I also noticed that if the gun was cleared and the trigger was pulled during the action of pulling the slide back you can hear a very audible click. I think it's the sear reseting, I was wondering if yours did the same. Thank you
There are no cracks in the frame, and if you could please point me in the direction of the guide rod you purchased. Thank you
@@robby9004 I purchased an extra at Midwest Gun Works ... I'll try leaving a link to buy it but TH-cam may scrub it as spam. This guide rod is the same in a 9mm nd a 40 cal. www.midwestgunworks.com/page/mgwi/prod/251350000
Im ok with mine stock...thanks for this!!😊
I wonder if S&W sells a metal guide rod assembly ?
Ive never seen one ... the polymer same part number guide rod is used in both the .40 and the 9mm by the way. I bought a couple extra and they were only about $6 each. I bought them three years ago and Im not even close to using them yet.
@@megatrends I was asking only because Beretta sells A metal replacement for their plastic rod.
@@randymccalla9995 Smith and Wesson steel guide rod for this pistol. The lower has two plastic tabs that the guide rod sits on while firing, and it can cause a catastrophic failure for the frame. Other pistols have steel behind where the guide rod sits. And yes, the guide rod sits against the barrel, but it is firing for a brief moment. It is resting against the frame.. Using a steel guide rod in this pistol is a matter of time before the gun fails. I have a can and other pistols as well that have steel tabs and you can definitely use a steel guide rod in those.
Good info.
Stupid is as stupid does or for a lack of knowledge... if it ain't broke don't fix it....gun manufacturers do things for a reason....might as well replace rolled pins with nice solid stainless ones...
SD9VE🪶👑sleeper leave them internally STOCK just stipple grip,finger rest,trigger pad/🎨FRT Sight and train/shoot it till it’s smooth it will last forever,at most the not locking to the rear on last is the lil inner tab on slide release that rest on the mag follower just give slightest bend down 👍🏽,the trigger is fine don’t call it the trainer glock for nothing😭cause by the time you get G19/23 after running these 🎯😎also only get M&P/Glock .40/.45/10mms period 🙅🏾♂️never SD40s they’ll break down the road
You think replacing a slid block lever for a longer one would affect the internals?
@@yezkaholic id leave it stock if it doesn’t lock back it’s the lil tab on the slide lock that rest on the follower not the mags give it the slightest bend down talkin marginal
@kenshin034 I just have zero nails so wanted it to be easier to field strip since those slide lock levers barely have any meat ok them
@@yezkaholic o that yea that those do help
where you got the finger rest?