After drilling holes in a concrete ceiling for lights and window shades, I got a bit jealous looking at the floor drilling footage, no dust dropping in your face, no holding up a heavy drill against gravity, more comfortable standing. Can't wait to see the awesome stuff you'll make once this space is finished!
When drilling concrete, you should extract the dust a bit more often. When I was an carpenter apprentice (also in Germany, but since your channel is english, I´ll also stick to it), my boss almost broke his wrist, while drilling holes for new lumber storage racks. The dust jammed the drill and before he had a chance of releasing the trigger he made a sharp looking breakdance like move around the drill.
3:35: I would like to highlight how the drill-driver was handed over: in such a way that the person who will work with it can immediately hold it properly.
I'm surprised you didn't sacrifice a little space by going with dual wall that uses offset studs. You can isolate the two drywalls with an airgap by using offset studs. With studio that's close to a workshop, I would think it's worth it. Also, consider a door sweep to block the transmission of sound (air) under the doors. And put weather strips on the doors to prevent air leakage. Finally, a mudpack on the electrical boxes should stop almost all air movement.
Moin Marius, kurze Frage: Warum verwendet ihr Holz als Ständerwerk und nicht Metall? Geht in meinen Augen schneller und sollte deutlich günstiger sein, als das gehobelte Holz?! Das Verbinden geht mit einer entsprechenden Stanzzange auch superschnell und der Zuschnitt für die vertikalen Teile muss auch nicht millimetergenau erfolgen.
Wir hatten alle schon Erfahrungen mit Holzständer und konnten das Holz auch gut wo anders benutzen. Sind damit auch sehr flexibel. Kostentechnisch war der Großteil das OSB Irgendwann gibt's aber auch noch ein Kostenaufstellung der Renovierung. Wird bestimmt viele interessieren
In this video we start to hit a nail in to some wood, but you’ll have to wait until the next video to see the hammer finish the swing… Love the videos… tantalizingly too short!
For what it's worth, those walls would have been plenty stable secured to the floor with brown plugs and 80 x 5.0 screws... the anchor bolts are overkill (but then again, there ain't no kill like overkill!)
I would be interested to hear from any Europeans who know the nominal and actual dimensions of the studs and sheet goods used in Europe/Germany. In 'Merican Units, the nominal "2x4" studs would generally measure 1-1/2" X 3-1/2". The studs in this video appear to be thicker than 1-1/2" and narrower than 3-1/2". Are they maybe 50x80 Science Units (mm)? What about sheet goods? Presumably plywood, worldwide is milled to a metric standard of 18mm and that's why American 3/4" plywood is closer to 11/16, but what is the European equivalent of an American 4x8 sheet? Is it dimensioned to coincide with a decimal layout? In the US, a "4x8" sheet of plywood floor decking would be supported by framing on 8", 12", 16" centers. Wall framing and roof trusses would usually be on 16" or 24" centers, all common factors of 48' and 96". Presumably the European equivalents of these materials are laid out in similar common factors of centimeters or millimeters in order to minimize waste. American tape measures are marked for common layout dimensions, with most having graphical markings for 16" and 24" layout. For years I have been trying to find a European construction tape measure, marked only in metric, just so I could see what the difference might be. Unfortunately, all I can find is unnecessarily confusing hermaphrodite tapes with Science Units on one edge and "American units" on the other.
cant speak for europe as a whole, but for UK: most internal (non-structural) stud walls are made from 38x63 or 38x89 CLS, typically C16. Structural walls are typically made of brick & block. Things like timber rafters & floor joists & less commonly timber framing come in a loaaad of sizes, 45x145 or 45x195 probably being the most common, typically C24 for structural stuff, but C16 is also common. sheet materials are typically 2400x1200 or 2440x1220, but theres also 2440x600, usually used for OSB floor boards (T&G). usual thicknesses for OSB is 18mm as you said, but 22 is also quite common, or 12.5mm for plasterboard for spacing, the most common is 400 centres. 450 & 600 centres occasionally all measurements in mm is pretty standard, but in the UK we also occasionally use imperial cause whats life without a little messiness.
We used 60x80mm construction lumber. The standard sheet good size is 2,5m x 1,25 m, so more or less 4x8 feet and we went with 18mm thickness, but you can get 6,5, 9, 12, 15, 18, 21mm as standard thickness for plywood and OSB starting at 12mm Thicker is also possible but I'm not sure if that's a common standard. In terms of the tape measure. Since Americans build many houses with wood it makes sense to have common measurements on a tape measure. In Europe or at least Germany most houses are built from brick, so no need for common wood spacings in metric
Here in the Netherlands sheets are often 1m22 x 2m44, probably dictated by the maximum truck width of 2m50. Studs are the same as mentioned before, so pretty much the same as yours (38x89mm equals 1.5"x3.5").
In Norway most smaller houses are wooden. A Norwegian 2 by 4 is 48 x 98 mm (which is quite close to actually being 2" by 4"). Stud distance is usually 600 mm or 450 mm, and the most common sheetrock dimension is 1200 mm wide (we mount them in a vertical direction). For walls, different wall properties call for different stud dimensions. I recently finished an interior (non bearing) wall using 36 x 68 mm studs as 68 mm + one layer of 12.5 mm sheetrock on each side equals the thickness of a door frame. Tape measures (and folding rulers as are more common here) often have markings for 600 mm stud distance.
@@bardlindqvist3741 Thank you sir! That is interesting to know. So sheet goods in Norway are roughly the same size as that sold in the US. 1200mm is 47-1/4 inches...our sheet goods are actually a bit undersized "to allow space for seasonal wood movement". I suspect American mills cut everything to the metric standard and then relabel their goods to nominal sizes, and for that matter, a lot of our materials are imported. The 450 and 600mm stud spacing is almost exactly the same as our 16 and 32inch layout. That being the case, the American construction industry could switch to metric without a lot of difficulty.
Do you have automated fire suppression requirements in Deutschland? I noticed you haven't been installing sprinkler risers in any of your spaces - but I wasn't sure if it wasn't required, or was just a later step. Love these videos - I can't wait to see you all utilizing the space!
I'm wondering when you got sponsorship from Bosch? I'm seeing lots of lovely and tasteful new equipment. It's all been Bosch. Please do a bit more video about it, I can see it's all very interesting high end stuff.
I had a Bosch sponsorship a few years ago that brought the big saw and drill i to my shop. The rest I bought myself, since I now am in the Bosch battery ecosystem. And a few tools were gifted by viewers
schaut euch mal das Gewinde der Einschlagdübel an .. die kann man vollständig mit Hammer eintreiben .. das Gewinde ist Keilförmig (wenn es die üblichen sind mit denen ich gearbeitet habe, leicht rein, schwer raus) und das Gewinde ist für eventuelles lösen gedacht .. bzw zerstörungsfreien Rückbau .. weil ihr euch doch bei den Betonschrauben aufgeregt habt, das Loch reinigen euch zu lange dauert 😉
All you guys are brilliant in your own right. But engineers building walls and designing spaces….. It would take you guys 10 years to build a house. It would be the most square/level/plumb house ever!!!!!! Awesome and unintentionally hilarious!
Hey why didnt you use steel under construction its way cheaper in this scale and maybe even stronger and you could save the osp plate and just bolted two Drywall sheets ontop of the under construction its also sound proof
@@nukerbelike6049 You might get a drywall sheet to hold 70 kg if you can get the right plug (anchor?) and screw, but those are rare and expensive (at least here in Europe). With OSB underneath you can use any old wood screw you have laying around (or buy in bulk for 10€/kg or $2/lbs), and it can carry a LOT more. Very handy in a workshop where you have lots of heavy things.
What are you going to do about noise? If you take your machines and continue with wood working videos, that is probably a lot of noise compared to the content that CNC kitchen is creating. Aren't you afraid of getting noise in the recordings? Anyhow, keep up the good work!
I think that communication should solve that problem. "Hey, I' filing for the next hour, could you keep it down until then?" "Sure, I'll prepare CAD for a few parts more then." Apart from that, the insulation they add (wood fibre) is not only great at insulating against heat, it is also a great sound dampener. These walls will do great at absorbing sounds.
Well, a RCD can get triggered by using a tool with a defective cord or by shorting neutral to ground while installing a lightbulb. With german wiring, it is not really dangerous working on live wires if you have a little bit of common sense and a working fuse and RCD connected somewhere down the line, so people tend to work on live wires.
@@malteser0212 Yes, and defective cords or working on live wires are both bad; plugging in one too many drills is easily fixed, while the other requires replacing parts or potentially going to the hospital (or worse). Even with fuses and RCD's working on live wires is still very dangerous. Perhaps not as dangerous as working on live wires without RCD, but still very dangerous! It doesn't matter if you k**l yourself with 29mA or with 300A, de*d is d*ad... Working with live wires without RCD is even worse, might as well not have any fuse, as 16A is plenty to cook yourself, and breakers only trip "instantly" on a multitude of that; a 16A breaker can often supply 16A for 15 minutes or longer before tripping. Do your friends and family a favor, and don't work on live wires...
@@malteser0212 Yes, and defective cords or working on live wires are both bad; an overload (like plugging in one too many drills) is easily fixed, while the other requires replacing parts or potentially going to the hospital (or worse). Even with fuses and RCD's working on live wires is still very dangerous. Perhaps not as dangerous as working on live wires without RCD, but still very dangerous! It doesn't matter if you hurt (yt won't let me use the k-word) yourself with 29mA or with 300A, you're still hurt (yt won't let me use the d-word)... Working with live wires without RCD is even worse, might as well not have any fuse, as 16A is plenty to cook yourself, and breakers only trip "instantly" on a multitude of that; a 16A breaker can often supply 16A for 15 minutes or longer before tripping. Do your friends and family a favor, and don't work on live wires...
@@malteser0212 Yes, and defective cords or working on live wires are both bad; plugging in one too many drills is easily fixed, while the other requires replacing parts or potentially getting hurt. Even with fuses and RCD's working on live wires is still very dangerous. Perhaps not as dangerous as working on live wires without RCD, but still very, very dangerous! Don't work on live wires... 9999 times out of 10000 there is no good reason to work on live wires (unless you're a licensed electrician, and even those prefer to work on disconnected and grounded circuits).
@@paulnieuwkamp8067 yes, I absolutely agree with you that there are seldom good reasons to work on live wires, but many non professionals choose to ignore this (be it out of ignorance or out of unknowingness). And most are fine. Dumb luck I guess.
At 1:09 we see he has at least one roller (we don't see the outfeed side but the wood seems to be supported on that end too at 1:18 so there's probably a second one there), at 3:57 we see two sawhorses being used as table supports, and at 4:30 we see a Workmate being used as miter saw stand. What would you use the new sawhorse for?
After drilling holes in a concrete ceiling for lights and window shades, I got a bit jealous looking at the floor drilling footage, no dust dropping in your face, no holding up a heavy drill against gravity, more comfortable standing. Can't wait to see the awesome stuff you'll make once this space is finished!
When drilling concrete, you should extract the dust a bit more often. When I was an carpenter apprentice (also in Germany, but since your channel is english, I´ll also stick to it), my boss almost broke his wrist, while drilling holes for new lumber storage racks. The dust jammed the drill and before he had a chance of releasing the trigger he made a sharp looking breakdance like move around the drill.
I enjoy these short regular videos with singular focus. Still hope there will be a supercut of the whole office renovation once everything is done.
There's a supercut of the office/lounge room. Supercut of everything will come later
@@MHAnythingThank you
3:35: I would like to highlight how the drill-driver was handed over: in such a way that the person who will work with it can immediately hold it properly.
Kudos for putting all the holes in the ceiling; that’s a workout.
this videos are cool and I would love it to see them becoming much longer and more detailed
I hope you're going to add a list of the cool gadgets you're using. The laser looks especially interesting.
I also want to know what kind of ankers/wall plugs and screws they're using cause I want to buy some for a project.
He mentioned a cross laser in an earlier video but can't remember the useful stuff.
The corded Hammer Drill seems to be from the Aldi store brand 😁
@@Jimunu Ya, I thought I vaguely remembered that as well, but my memory isn't that great either.
@DukNukem it is. Still going strong after many years
I'm surprised you didn't sacrifice a little space by going with dual wall that uses offset studs. You can isolate the two drywalls with an airgap by using offset studs. With studio that's close to a workshop, I would think it's worth it. Also, consider a door sweep to block the transmission of sound (air) under the doors. And put weather strips on the doors to prevent air leakage. Finally, a mudpack on the electrical boxes should stop almost all air movement.
Really enjoying your build out of youroffice and studio space.
It’s looking good 👍 😊
Moin Marius, kurze Frage: Warum verwendet ihr Holz als Ständerwerk und nicht Metall? Geht in meinen Augen schneller und sollte deutlich günstiger sein, als das gehobelte Holz?! Das Verbinden geht mit einer entsprechenden Stanzzange auch superschnell und der Zuschnitt für die vertikalen Teile muss auch nicht millimetergenau erfolgen.
Weil sie glauben etwas besseres zu sein und etwas besser zu könne als der Rest der Welt. Und der Geldscheißer muss ja auch für was gut sein.
Wir hatten alle schon Erfahrungen mit Holzständer und konnten das Holz auch gut wo anders benutzen. Sind damit auch sehr flexibel.
Kostentechnisch war der Großteil das OSB
Irgendwann gibt's aber auch noch ein Kostenaufstellung der Renovierung. Wird bestimmt viele interessieren
@@MHAnythingBei uns haben wir das auch mit Holz gemacht, allerdings haben wir noch Sandplatten zur Schalldämmung verwendet.
0:00 Maybe I have missed that a few times, but there is a copy of PoC || GTFO on the shelf. Nice!
In this video we start to hit a nail in to some wood, but you’ll have to wait until the next video to see the hammer finish the swing…
Love the videos… tantalizingly too short!
In the real world. This wouldn't have taken much longer to do that this video ran.
For what it's worth, those walls would have been plenty stable secured to the floor with brown plugs and 80 x 5.0 screws... the anchor bolts are overkill (but then again, there ain't no kill like overkill!)
Is there an intended use for the shared space? Storage for example? Or will it be a shop with shared tools? Curious to know! Thank you.
Yeah, storage, shared tools and grinding/welding stuff so smoke and metal dust can easily go outside the rolling gate
I would be interested to hear from any Europeans who know the nominal and actual dimensions of the studs and sheet goods used in Europe/Germany.
In 'Merican Units, the nominal "2x4" studs would generally measure 1-1/2" X 3-1/2". The studs in this video appear to be thicker than 1-1/2" and narrower than 3-1/2". Are they maybe 50x80 Science Units (mm)? What about sheet goods? Presumably plywood, worldwide is milled to a metric standard of 18mm and that's why American 3/4" plywood is closer to 11/16, but what is the European equivalent of an American 4x8 sheet? Is it dimensioned to coincide with a decimal layout?
In the US, a "4x8" sheet of plywood floor decking would be supported by framing on 8", 12", 16" centers. Wall framing and roof trusses would usually be on 16" or 24" centers, all common factors of 48' and 96". Presumably the European equivalents of these materials are laid out in similar common factors of centimeters or millimeters in order to minimize waste.
American tape measures are marked for common layout dimensions, with most having graphical markings for 16" and 24" layout. For years I have been trying to find a European construction tape measure, marked only in metric, just so I could see what the difference might be. Unfortunately, all I can find is unnecessarily confusing hermaphrodite tapes with Science Units on one edge and "American units" on the other.
cant speak for europe as a whole, but for UK: most internal (non-structural) stud walls are made from 38x63 or 38x89 CLS, typically C16. Structural walls are typically made of brick & block. Things like timber rafters & floor joists & less commonly timber framing come in a loaaad of sizes, 45x145 or 45x195 probably being the most common, typically C24 for structural stuff, but C16 is also common. sheet materials are typically 2400x1200 or 2440x1220, but theres also 2440x600, usually used for OSB floor boards (T&G). usual thicknesses for OSB is 18mm as you said, but 22 is also quite common, or 12.5mm for plasterboard
for spacing, the most common is 400 centres. 450 & 600 centres occasionally
all measurements in mm is pretty standard, but in the UK we also occasionally use imperial cause whats life without a little messiness.
We used 60x80mm construction lumber. The standard sheet good size is 2,5m x 1,25 m, so more or less 4x8 feet and we went with 18mm thickness, but you can get 6,5, 9, 12, 15, 18, 21mm as standard thickness for plywood and OSB starting at 12mm
Thicker is also possible but I'm not sure if that's a common standard.
In terms of the tape measure. Since Americans build many houses with wood it makes sense to have common measurements on a tape measure. In Europe or at least Germany most houses are built from brick, so no need for common wood spacings in metric
Here in the Netherlands sheets are often 1m22 x 2m44, probably dictated by the maximum truck width of 2m50. Studs are the same as mentioned before, so pretty much the same as yours (38x89mm equals 1.5"x3.5").
In Norway most smaller houses are wooden. A Norwegian 2 by 4 is 48 x 98 mm (which is quite close to actually being 2" by 4").
Stud distance is usually 600 mm or 450 mm, and the most common sheetrock dimension is 1200 mm wide (we mount them in a vertical direction).
For walls, different wall properties call for different stud dimensions. I recently finished an interior (non bearing) wall using 36 x 68 mm studs as 68 mm + one layer of 12.5 mm sheetrock on each side equals the thickness of a door frame.
Tape measures (and folding rulers as are more common here) often have markings for 600 mm stud distance.
@@bardlindqvist3741 Thank you sir! That is interesting to know. So sheet goods in Norway are roughly the same size as that sold in the US. 1200mm is 47-1/4 inches...our sheet goods are actually a bit undersized "to allow space for seasonal wood movement". I suspect American mills cut everything to the metric standard and then relabel their goods to nominal sizes, and for that matter, a lot of our materials are imported. The 450 and 600mm stud spacing is almost exactly the same as our 16 and 32inch layout. That being the case, the American construction industry could switch to metric without a lot of difficulty.
how big is your work space here compared to your previous space?
About 4x as big
Do you have automated fire suppression requirements in Deutschland? I noticed you haven't been installing sprinkler risers in any of your spaces - but I wasn't sure if it wasn't required, or was just a later step. Love these videos - I can't wait to see you all utilizing the space!
No, we don't need sprinklers in this shop
I'm wondering when you got sponsorship from Bosch? I'm seeing lots of lovely and tasteful new equipment. It's all been Bosch. Please do a bit more video about it, I can see it's all very interesting high end stuff.
I had a Bosch sponsorship a few years ago that brought the big saw and drill i to my shop. The rest I bought myself, since I now am in the Bosch battery ecosystem. And a few tools were gifted by viewers
schaut euch mal das Gewinde der Einschlagdübel an .. die kann man vollständig mit Hammer eintreiben .. das Gewinde ist Keilförmig (wenn es die üblichen sind mit denen ich gearbeitet habe, leicht rein, schwer raus) und das Gewinde ist für eventuelles lösen gedacht .. bzw zerstörungsfreien Rückbau .. weil ihr euch doch bei den Betonschrauben aufgeregt habt, das Loch reinigen euch zu lange dauert 😉
Nach Hersteller Angaben sollten wir es so machen
joy was derived from this piece of media!
All you guys are brilliant in your own right. But engineers building walls and designing spaces….. It would take you guys 10 years to build a house. It would be the most square/level/plumb house ever!!!!!!
Awesome and unintentionally hilarious!
Also, you have a drill with a clutch - use the clutch, save your wrists!
This specific drill has a protection feature preventing it from twisting in your hand too quickly. Just wasn't enough to trigger it here
WE NEED MORE LUMBER (in orc accent)
Diese C und C++ Bücher hinter dir 😩
How did you guys find eachother?
Hey why didnt you use steel under construction its way cheaper in this scale and maybe even stronger and you could save the osp plate and just bolted two Drywall sheets ontop of the under construction its also sound proof
But with osb it's much easier to screw Things to it.. not so bad in a Workshop I think
@@johannes8192 That why you use 2 Drywall sheet 1 sheet can hold 70kg so with 2 you can hold almost everything.
Because of their Geldscheißer.
@@nukerbelike6049 You might get a drywall sheet to hold 70 kg if you can get the right plug (anchor?) and screw, but those are rare and expensive (at least here in Europe). With OSB underneath you can use any old wood screw you have laying around (or buy in bulk for 10€/kg or $2/lbs), and it can carry a LOT more. Very handy in a workshop where you have lots of heavy things.
What are you going to do about noise? If you take your machines and continue with wood working videos, that is probably a lot of noise compared to the content that CNC kitchen is creating. Aren't you afraid of getting noise in the recordings? Anyhow, keep up the good work!
I think that communication should solve that problem.
"Hey, I' filing for the next hour, could you keep it down until then?"
"Sure, I'll prepare CAD for a few parts more then."
Apart from that, the insulation they add (wood fibre) is not only great at insulating against heat, it is also a great sound dampener. These walls will do great at absorbing sounds.
I hope no one triggered the RCD but simply triggered the breaker. One is bad, the other one just overload.
Well, a RCD can get triggered by using a tool with a defective cord or by shorting neutral to ground while installing a lightbulb.
With german wiring, it is not really dangerous working on live wires if you have a little bit of common sense and a working fuse and RCD connected somewhere down the line, so people tend to work on live wires.
@@malteser0212 Yes, and defective cords or working on live wires are both bad; plugging in one too many drills is easily fixed, while the other requires replacing parts or potentially going to the hospital (or worse).
Even with fuses and RCD's working on live wires is still very dangerous. Perhaps not as dangerous as working on live wires without RCD, but still very dangerous! It doesn't matter if you k**l yourself with 29mA or with 300A, de*d is d*ad... Working with live wires without RCD is even worse, might as well not have any fuse, as 16A is plenty to cook yourself, and breakers only trip "instantly" on a multitude of that; a 16A breaker can often supply 16A for 15 minutes or longer before tripping.
Do your friends and family a favor, and don't work on live wires...
@@malteser0212 Yes, and defective cords or working on live wires are both bad; an overload (like plugging in one too many drills) is easily fixed, while the other requires replacing parts or potentially going to the hospital (or worse).
Even with fuses and RCD's working on live wires is still very dangerous. Perhaps not as dangerous as working on live wires without RCD, but still very dangerous! It doesn't matter if you hurt (yt won't let me use the k-word) yourself with 29mA or with 300A, you're still hurt (yt won't let me use the d-word)... Working with live wires without RCD is even worse, might as well not have any fuse, as 16A is plenty to cook yourself, and breakers only trip "instantly" on a multitude of that; a 16A breaker can often supply 16A for 15 minutes or longer before tripping.
Do your friends and family a favor, and don't work on live wires...
@@malteser0212 Yes, and defective cords or working on live wires are both bad; plugging in one too many drills is easily fixed, while the other requires replacing parts or potentially getting hurt.
Even with fuses and RCD's working on live wires is still very dangerous. Perhaps not as dangerous as working on live wires without RCD, but still very, very dangerous! Don't work on live wires... 9999 times out of 10000 there is no good reason to work on live wires (unless you're a licensed electrician, and even those prefer to work on disconnected and grounded circuits).
@@paulnieuwkamp8067 yes, I absolutely agree with you that there are seldom good reasons to work on live wires, but many non professionals choose to ignore this (be it out of ignorance or out of unknowingness). And most are fine. Dumb luck I guess.
New video 🎉
Interesting, dont think Ive ever seen anyone screwing in hammer dowels. I just hammer them all the way haha
That's because they are supposed to be screwed in for the last bit
Those are not dowels, they're ramplugs
Do you think those walls will be strong enough? Surely you needed more timber 😊
👍👍
Was ein Gebastel ... Oder wenn man einen Geldscheißer hat. Aber fürs Werkzeug reichts dann nicht mehr.
Du scheinst mehr Erfahrung zu haben als wir. Was hatten wir besser/anders machen sollen?
Buy. A. Sawhorse.
4:42 Okay, fine, you bought a sawhorse or two, but why are you just using them as a table??
@@meribor What are they going to use teh sawhorses for? Didn't see any work momentum that would need that extra unnecessary exercise?
No, they've done a whole bunch of unnecessary exercise because they didn't use the sawhorses properly.
Please be more specific
At 1:09 we see he has at least one roller (we don't see the outfeed side but the wood seems to be supported on that end too at 1:18 so there's probably a second one there), at 3:57 we see two sawhorses being used as table supports, and at 4:30 we see a Workmate being used as miter saw stand.
What would you use the new sawhorse for?