Good tip for wood that is intimidating you when you imagine taking dozens of swings and the stubborn thing just won't budge! When I started splitting wood, all I had was a sledge and some wedges. I realized later that wedges were a waste of time. I was constantly having to pick them up after what you said about them taking flight, or correcting them by smacking them back into vertical position. They would even chip over time which I found annoying and dangerous! I developed the opinion that wedges were like a middle man just getting in the way of business, so I put them away forever. I have three that I retired and thought I would never have a use for again. For big logs I now take off the outer edges and work my way to the center. This works most the time, but its good to know I can try this other option that might save me a few whacks. Your video has given me a new perspective on wedges and renewed hope about splitting wood that has large mass and will just absorb the energy of individual strikes from a maul. Thanks once again LDU! Now where did I put those wedges???
I just came inside from having my wedge repeatedly pop right up exactly as you describe and was wondering, "How in the world *AM* I going to split these" GREAT tip! GREATLY appreciated!
John, U crack me up. Pun intended. This is a page out of my book. I do this. But I did buy a splitter 15 yrs ago. These monsters weigh over 2-300 lbs. Then I put them on the splitter, and I'm done. I actually have the same exact maul, the old 1 U had. The 12 pounder, red, steel handle. Beautiful day here in Wolcott 3/7/13. Just beautiful
Yes - a sledge hammer, don't know why I drew a blank with that term. In fact I just bought one this evening, I do love the work, looking forward to splitting some and using your techniques shown tomorrow. I'm somewhat new at it, been splitting wood for about 4 years. I see we're in the same state - I get out your way at times, I'll assume around exit 10. Just acquired a new (to me) stove, the person I bought it from purchased parts for it online from a woodstove shop in your town. Don't recall the name, but they have the catalysts for Vermont Castings stoves.
4:13 With Large Live Oak pieces that are 12 to 24" in diameter the wedge just stays below the top of the log. They one tries another and another wedge. With the monster 24" piece I had 5 Wedges of the twisting type deep below the top. And still the log holds together. Thus a make a wooden wedge out of Live Oak to further spilt the chunks.
I split ALL my wood with a maul, not a chainsaw or a log splitter and aw man, that flat ping(that piercing ring from hitting metal on metal) is HORRIBLE. I hope you have ear protection, surefire earplugs is the brand I use and I'm glad.
Infact, wedges and other accesories are useful mainly on root logs and other twisted fibet ones, nkots , etc. Straight ones only need maul or a heavy, thick splitting axe. The small secret is to start from the edges instead of the center of the log, especially if the wood is one with internal knots.(tree grows on the outer beneath the cambium layer so broken branch insertions from the youth become knots as the tree grows , close to the center of the log which is oldest wood) If there are no knots, hit on the exterior with the blade/edge aiming for center of the log, if there are knots just perpendicular to that direction, trying to "shave" pieces from the exterior to the interior.
Only used the new stove twice due to this warm spell we've been having. lt did work well, it seems like a long lasting, more controlled fire. The firebox looks huge to me, most split wood I have was cut to fit the old stove. My old one was only $75 from my neighbor, so the low price offset the frequent re-filling and log cutting. The grates were starting to deteriorate though. If yours is getting the job done it makes sense to stay with it. Like you said - it would be so disappointing to spend good money and put in a lot of effort and gain very little or nothing at all.
Just got a whole bunch of logs from my neighbor similar to the sizes in the video. Thanks for the tips - really don't want to invest in a gas splitter. This method should make them small enough for the manual hydraulic splitter I just got, or just split them with a maul. I'd like to get that tool used to drive the wedge in, I have a small handheld version of that. So far haven't found one online, will check in the stores.
Black Swan - that's it! I hear ya re: being enticed when seeing a new stove. I only got the 'new' one a week ago because a relative bought a new one, so got a great deal on it. The old one was ok, but small. About 90% of the wood I had delivered had to be cut to fit, about 16" max. This stove also has a side door for logs up to 22". Good to know there's more than one stove shop in town.
Ever hear of a powder wedge?? basically a wedge with a muzzle loader built into it. Can split a 2 foot diameter, 15 foot long log with 1 match .Lots of videos on youtube Very old tool used before chainsaws, wood splitters, hydraulics and tractors.
I enjoy your videos, good info. One safety tip I learned the hard way. If you are using steel wedges, don't stand in line with the crack as you strike the wedge. If it springs out, it will fly somewhere in a plane parallel to the crack. I would rather not use wedges as I hate picking them up off the ground. I split some very gnarly oak last week with Sotz Monster Maul. It simply would not split at 18" length. Re-cut to 9 and they popped right open and will make nice kindling or fuel for the chiminea. Cheers!
All your tips are okay, but you're about to get the tip of the day! Forget the wedge and use your splitting maul on the outside edges of your log rounds. Start 4 or 5 inches from the outside edge at a slight angle (not like you're making pieces of pie). Just work your way around the outside edge until you can get inside. It takes less muscle, works great and no need for a chainsaw!
It's known as "slabbing". You split slabs off the outside of the log, rather than trying to split along the radius (a.k.a. a "pie wedge"). It works great on large logs, and also seems to work better when splitting American Elm, which can be a bear to split by hand.
Doesn't always work. I have some locust rounds that my maul will just bounce off of, even at the ends. Chainsaw or splitter is really only way to go for some rounds
Just use a smaller 4 lb hammer to start the wedge. Then switch to your 8 lb or 10 lb sledge hammer. Use TWO wedges, lined up, off center. *Always use eye and ear protection*.
Nice video. Thx for taking the time to post it. One question, the wood shavings from the chain saw, can that be repurposed for anything else? Or is that just garbage. ? Thx let me know
I split a lot of firewood and one of the best splitting mauls I have ever used is one made by stihl they are expensive but they are worth every penny mine was 54.00 with tax on sale but they are usually 90 that and my stihl ms-290 farmboss with a 25" bar best combo ever
+Land Designs Unlimited LLC fiskars are awesome i have split 300 full cord yes full cord 4x4x8 with mine and still works great about 50 to 60 dollars and lifetime guarantee handle, anything with a wood handle is going to fail in time. even haved use the one you have not bad but short life span as the head becomes loose and falls off.
Thank you for this video. Would this be the same method if the log has been sitting for a few months? I need to buy a sledge hammer and metal wedges I guess. I was trying to just use a splitting axe and wow it was not splitting at all plus I’m not a big guy.
Ever hear of a powder wedge ??? Very common 100 years ago before hydraulics , chainsaws, and log splitters. Can split any size round instantly with 1 match . used to split fence-rails, rounds and logs.Even huge rounds way too big to move by hand . See you-tube videos, many of them.. Almost impossible to find to buy. I am having a few made up at a machine tool manufacturer. Best demo is you-tube,black powder splitting wedge demonstration.
I know this is an old video, but did a chunk or mushroom head fall off your wedge at 4:18. Sounded funny and something fell to the side there at the hit.
I like your chainsaw method. dad's got some rounds that measure about 3.5' diameter or larger. they're still green, cut only about six weeks ago. maybe eight. but I think I'd like to try that chainsaw method on them if I'll remember. the wedge concept, seems familiar. my axe glanced a time or two and I've got a few natural wood wedges now. I usually just use them whenever I'm splitting a chunk with a crotch in it. seems to be easier on me.
Your ripping is the most difficult cut to make with a chainsaw. MUCH easier to "noodle" a round, where you put the round up on edge and saw in parallel the grain. Some stihl clutch covers don't clear such chips well, so with them you rock the bar- nose down/up to shorten the noodles. Saw in maybe an inch or two, then hit that groove with a REAL maul- 5-6 lb with a properly shaped edge, and it's a piece of cake. Best way to go with forks & knots.
Kickback happens when the end of the saw catches wood and flies up towards your face. At a deep angle, more of the end catches and it's more likely to kick back. At a shallow angle, the bottom of the saw is doing the cutting and it's less likely to kickback. Also safer to use a low kickback chain
Chainsaws are designed to cut across the grain. They will cut with the grain but not very efficiently. This is evidenced by very small cutting chips. You only need to cut partially into the wood to make a stress concentration area. After that hit the groove with a monster maul and the big round will come apart. Forget wedges they can spit out tiny pieces of metal and hurt you. Always use eye protection when using wedges.
By the look of those shavings in the background, you're familiar with using the saw to rip wood. Why not just lay those blocks on their side and rip them with the chainsaw?
I do that often for the tree trunks that are non splitters. Typically trunks that have large branches. I did four such yesterday. Large blocks and random pieces are the result
just hit the thing with the fiskars splitting axe work your way around outside and around knot and stop wasting your time with the wedges if Its real tough rip it with saw people waste more time with wedges I split tough hardwood never used a wedge and u don't waste anything
![[Re:all TREASURE] EP.6 in 방콕ㅣ🚩 쩡캠의 방콕 투어 빵 마이 와이 👍](http://i.ytimg.com/vi/uyFw-nItA_s/mqdefault.jpg)
Many interesting splitting techniques on TH-cam. Thanks for sharing the great footage friend and God bless!
Good tip for wood that is intimidating you when you imagine taking dozens of swings and the stubborn thing just won't budge! When I started splitting wood, all I had was a sledge and some wedges. I realized later that wedges were a waste of time. I was constantly having to pick them up after what you said about them taking flight, or correcting them by smacking them back into vertical position. They would even chip over time which I found annoying and dangerous! I developed the opinion that wedges were like a middle man just getting in the way of business, so I put them away forever. I have three that I retired and thought I would never have a use for again. For big logs I now take off the outer edges and work my way to the center. This works most the time, but its good to know I can try this other option that might save me a few whacks. Your video has given me a new perspective on wedges and renewed hope about splitting wood that has large mass and will just absorb the energy of individual strikes from a maul. Thanks once again LDU! Now where did I put those wedges???
I just came inside from having my wedge repeatedly pop right up exactly as you describe and was wondering, "How in the world *AM* I going to split these"
GREAT tip! GREATLY appreciated!
I'm a newbie so I really appreciate you making this video - thanks for sharing.
John, U crack me up. Pun intended. This is a page out of my book. I do this. But I did buy a splitter 15 yrs ago. These monsters weigh over 2-300 lbs. Then I put them on the splitter, and I'm done. I actually have the same exact maul, the old 1 U had. The 12 pounder, red, steel handle. Beautiful day here in Wolcott 3/7/13. Just beautiful
Yes - a sledge hammer, don't know why I drew a blank with that term. In fact I just bought one this evening, I do love the work, looking forward to splitting some and using your techniques shown tomorrow. I'm somewhat new at it, been splitting wood for about 4 years. I see we're in the same state - I get out your way at times, I'll assume around exit 10. Just acquired a new (to me) stove, the person I bought it from purchased parts for it online from a woodstove shop in your town. Don't recall the name, but they have the catalysts for Vermont Castings stoves.
4:13 With Large Live Oak pieces that are 12 to 24" in diameter the wedge just stays below the top of the log. They one tries another and another wedge. With the monster 24" piece I had 5 Wedges of the twisting type deep below the top. And still the log holds together. Thus a make a wooden wedge out of Live Oak to further spilt the chunks.
I split ALL my wood with a maul, not a chainsaw or a log splitter and aw man, that flat ping(that piercing ring from hitting metal on metal) is HORRIBLE. I hope you have ear protection, surefire earplugs is the brand I use and I'm glad.
Nothing like that pop/crack sound you hear after the wedge does its job.
A LOT OF UNNECCESARY WORK. Wood that will not split SAW it. Easier on your back.
Yes indeed!
Great video! Super helpful. Thanks!
Infact, wedges and other accesories are useful mainly on root logs and other twisted fibet ones, nkots , etc.
Straight ones only need maul or a heavy, thick splitting axe.
The small secret is to start from the edges instead of the center of the log, especially if the wood is one with internal knots.(tree grows on the outer beneath the cambium layer so broken branch insertions from the youth become knots as the tree grows , close to the center of the log which is oldest wood)
If there are no knots, hit on the exterior with the blade/edge aiming for center of the log, if there are knots just perpendicular to that direction, trying to "shave" pieces from the exterior to the interior.
Only used the new stove twice due to this warm spell we've been having. lt did work well, it seems like a long lasting, more controlled fire. The firebox looks huge to me, most split wood I have was cut to fit the old stove. My old one was only $75 from my neighbor, so the low price offset the frequent re-filling and log cutting. The grates were starting to deteriorate though. If yours is getting the job done it makes sense to stay with it. Like you said - it would be so disappointing to spend good money and put in a lot of effort and gain very little or nothing at all.
Just got a whole bunch of logs from my neighbor similar to the sizes in the video. Thanks for the tips - really don't want to invest in a gas splitter. This method should make them small enough for the manual hydraulic splitter I just got, or just split them with a maul. I'd like to get that tool used to drive the wedge in, I have a small handheld version of that. So far haven't found one online, will check in the stores.
Black Swan - that's it! I hear ya re: being enticed when seeing a new stove. I only got the 'new' one a week ago because a relative bought a new one, so got a great deal on it. The old one was ok, but small. About 90% of the wood I had delivered had to be cut to fit, about 16" max. This stove also has a side door for logs up to 22". Good to know there's more than one stove shop in town.
Very good trick to know. Thank you for sharing that.
If you're picking up a chainsaw, you may as well cut them in pieces with your chainsaw.
waste of fuel
Well, you know, since we're imagining a big round let's just imagine we got efficient wood splitting.
Ever hear of a powder wedge?? basically a wedge with a muzzle loader built into it. Can split a 2 foot diameter, 15 foot long log with 1 match .Lots of videos on youtube Very old tool used before chainsaws, wood splitters, hydraulics and tractors.
Try putting your wedge on the edge instead of the center it splits easier
Right.
Facts.. start at edge and work your way to the core
I enjoy your videos, good info. One safety tip I learned the hard way. If you are using steel wedges, don't stand in line with the crack as you strike the wedge. If it springs out, it will fly somewhere in a plane parallel to the crack. I would rather not use wedges as I hate picking them up off the ground. I split some very gnarly oak last week with Sotz Monster Maul. It simply would not split at 18" length. Re-cut to 9 and they popped right open and will make nice kindling or fuel for the chiminea. Cheers!
Yup, been doing this for a long time.
All your tips are okay, but you're about to get the tip of the day! Forget the wedge and use your splitting maul on the outside edges of your log rounds. Start 4 or 5 inches from the outside edge at a slight angle (not like you're making pieces of pie). Just work your way around the outside edge until you can get inside. It takes less muscle, works great and no need for a chainsaw!
It's known as "slabbing". You split slabs off the outside of the log, rather than trying to split along the radius (a.k.a. a "pie wedge"). It works great on large logs, and also seems to work better when splitting American Elm, which can be a bear to split by hand.
Doesn't always work. I have some locust rounds that my maul will just bounce off of, even at the ends. Chainsaw or splitter is really only way to go for some rounds
Always split out side in. That's why the wedges failed in the maple. It's physics
Just use a smaller 4 lb hammer to start the wedge. Then switch to your 8 lb or 10 lb sledge hammer. Use TWO wedges, lined up, off center. *Always use eye and ear protection*.
Nice video. Thx for taking the time to post it. One question, the wood shavings from the chain saw, can that be repurposed for anything else? Or is that just garbage. ? Thx let me know
I split a lot of firewood and one of the best splitting mauls I have ever used is one made by stihl they are expensive but they are worth every penny mine was 54.00 with tax on sale but they are usually 90 that and my stihl ms-290 farmboss with a 25" bar best combo ever
+Land Designs Unlimited LLC yes they can but you need to change out the sprocket on the power head and it works great for giant logs
+Land Designs Unlimited LLC fiskars are awesome i have split 300 full cord yes full cord 4x4x8 with mine and still works great about 50 to 60 dollars and lifetime guarantee handle, anything with a wood handle is going to fail in time. even haved use the one you have not bad but short life span as the head becomes loose and falls off.
I buried two wedges in a log still didn't split
What a great tip THANKS !
Thank you for this video. Would this be the same method if the log has been sitting for a few months? I need to buy a sledge hammer and metal wedges I guess. I was trying to just use a splitting axe and wow it was not splitting at all plus I’m not a big guy.
Nice thanks.
Ever hear of a powder wedge ??? Very common 100 years ago before hydraulics , chainsaws, and log splitters. Can split any size round instantly with 1 match . used to split fence-rails, rounds and logs.Even huge rounds way too big to move by hand . See you-tube videos, many of them.. Almost impossible to find to buy. I am having a few made up at a machine tool manufacturer. Best demo is you-tube,black powder splitting wedge demonstration.
Old school work, good job
I know this is an old video, but did a chunk or mushroom head fall off your wedge at 4:18. Sounded funny and something fell to the side there at the hit.
I watched the video and I didn't see it. I think a piece of bark came off the log around that part though.
G'day CTS why do you call the foot blocks logs ?
Nice video, very clear
I like your chainsaw method. dad's got some rounds that measure about 3.5' diameter or larger. they're still green, cut only about six weeks ago. maybe eight. but I think I'd like to try that chainsaw method on them if I'll remember. the wedge concept, seems familiar. my axe glanced a time or two and I've got a few natural wood wedges now. I usually just use them whenever I'm splitting a chunk with a crotch in it. seems to be easier on me.
Your ripping is the most difficult cut to make with a chainsaw. MUCH easier to "noodle" a round, where you put the round up on edge and saw in parallel the grain. Some stihl clutch covers don't clear such chips well, so with them you rock the bar- nose down/up to shorten the noodles. Saw in maybe an inch or two, then hit that groove with a REAL maul- 5-6 lb with a properly shaped edge, and it's a piece of cake. Best way to go with forks & knots.
Have a look at the shavings in the background. He knows how to do it.
Time to get a new handle for the sledge hammer
excellent work 👍 👍
Who sets use left hands in front or right hands?
What do you mean by keep the saw at a narrow angle to prevent kickback?
Kickback happens when the end of the saw catches wood and flies up towards your face. At a deep angle, more of the end catches and it's more likely to kick back. At a shallow angle, the bottom of the saw is doing the cutting and it's less likely to kickback. Also safer to use a low kickback chain
you need to splitting a 8' white oak by hand for fence post
Good stuff. thanks
Could you make those cuts with an electric hand held circular saw?
you are the man.. bro
So what is the axe you are using?
It's not an axe.
Hells yea
take off side slabs, 1rst,,, then the middle splits easy
never met round I couldn't take apart with this method. you get some nice flat pieces which come in handy in the stacking.
artofbreathtaking did you not hear what he said
I like that!
If you're splitting wood and happen to have a chainsaw on hand, why not just use the chainsaw?
***** Fair enough, and you can save some gas too. I enjoy splitting wood, but just for aesthetics.
Chainsaws are designed to cut across the grain. They will cut with the grain but not very efficiently. This is evidenced by very small cutting chips. You only need to cut partially into the wood to make a stress concentration area. After that hit the groove with a monster maul and the big round will come apart. Forget wedges they can spit out tiny pieces of metal and hurt you. Always use eye protection when using wedges.
00:10 to 00:12
What?
I wish australian wood was soft like american wood
Come to California and split some almond wood.
Nice!
Where gloves
I quit watching when you began using the tip of the chainsaw bar.....
By the look of those shavings in the background, you're familiar with using the saw to rip wood. Why not just lay those blocks on their side and rip them with the chainsaw?
I do that often for the tree trunks that are non splitters. Typically trunks that have large branches. I did four such yesterday. Large blocks and random pieces are the result
or you could just use a demand splitter 😂
Put the damn thing on its side and noodle it
just hit the thing with the fiskars splitting axe work your way around outside and around knot and stop wasting your time with the wedges if Its real tough rip it with saw people waste more time with wedges I split tough hardwood never used a wedge and u don't waste anything
FINNALLY SOMEONE WHO REALLY HAS SPLIT WOOD.
U live in Boston of in mass i live in mass
"what you're gonna wanna do" - such american