Two minor observations: 1) Power, including dissipated power, power that just get turned into heat, is measured as I^2 * R (I squared R -- the current through the device in amps times the resistance of the device in ohms. ( I think I might have seen a formula with a "v" Flash up on my screen. V, as in "voltage". Maybe not. Power in watts is also the product of current times voltage: P (watts) = i (amps) * V (volts). 2) Ohms law applies to this game. So do Kirchhoff's laws. Ohms law says that I=E/R (the flow of current is equal to the voltage divided by the resistance). So.... if your tungsten lamp consumes 21 watts when lit with 12 volt power in your car (call it really 13.2 volt power -- buss voltages in cars are typically more than 13 volts, and not much more than 14 volts). Then we have 21/13.2 = about a 1.6 amp draw .... or 1600 milliamps. R= E/I, so the nominal resistance of the bulb is 13.2 / 1.6 or about 8 ohms. (Some other fun facts are involved... a tungsten filament has the least resistance when cold, gains resistance when glowing.) Depending upon how much current flow the measuring scheme in the car is really looking for, 10, maybe 12 ohms out in the circuit is probably going to work. The LED bulbs draw some current. typically less than half an amp (450 milliamps for a replacement backup light, say). So, Kirchhoff''s :Laws about current through a node and voltage drops around a loop tell us that we can put the half amp through the LED assembly, and then just have a parallel circuit that 'wastes' something like another amp, maybe a little less. About a 15 ohm resistor becomes the likely candidate (13.2/15 is about .9). And for wattage: 1 (.9) amp times 13.2 volts requires about a 15 watt 15 ohm resistor. Your situation will be particular to its facts, BUT there is no good reason to expect any of this to work without doing the calculations. AND, if you want to be really cool, either get a (small) pile of wire wound resistors or a fairly meaty rheostat, put it on the light circuit (START from the lower current, higher resistance end of things, and work toward the point at which the dashboard "thinks" you've put the bulb back in. (Then let other people know on you car model "chat group"....etc.).
Thanks for the "minor" observations, that was exactly what I was searching for (and obviously as it's not "easy", it's more often than not overlooked for cheap/useless advices and "solutions")!
Scotch locks, the work of the devil! The principle of this video is great and informative, but DO NOT USE Scotch Locks!!! Use them assuming they will fail at some stage (and they will do eventually) the best (only?) way is to solder the resistor into the circuit and insulate the joint properly, preferably with heat shrink covering. I've spent many a cold, dark, winters night tracing open circuits in electrical systems often finding a corroded or vibrated to failure Scotch Lock to be the culprit, they were designed as a temporary repair to an electrical circuit and for that they are good but they hate damp and vibrations which will cause them to fail eventually.
Tell me if I am wrong but by adding a resistor dont we lose the reason to use the led in the first place lower wattage. I say this cause the led bulb and the resistor wattage is probably close to the damn incandescent in the first place
I tried this in my BMW X3 (2017 model year US) it did not work. I bought the Philips 5W resistor and installed it using the wire taps and got error in the dash, then I peeled the wires and soldered the resistor on and still got error. Not loving this Canbus feedback loop
Hi there... Great video BTW. My question relates to the specific size requirements of the resistors. Eg: I have replaced all my bumper tailight globes in my Audi Q3 with LED globes, however although they purport to be 'error free' my dash warning messages tell another story. Being as all these globes are W16W 12V... Does that mean I need to find resistors that are specifically 16 Watt for the LED's not to trigger a CANBUS error message... What ideal size resistors should I look for. Your help in advance is much appreciated!
These resistors will cancel out the error code and will not tell you if the bulb has gone, so really this is not the way to do it as you wont know if there is a bulb out on your car as the resistor will still be making the car think the bulb is fine with the resistance. How about changing the the car relays to LED relays ?
Had aftermarket led bulbs for my 2008 Audi for about five or or years now with no issues and bought them from a place called ddm in Huntington Beach ca .. well recently one of my bulbs burnt out and went and bought some new ones from them.. so here is my issue. When I first start up my car my dash will display dipped headlights but as soon as I turn on the lights the message immediately disappears and btw both lights turn on perfectly fine.. I guess it’s not a big deal but it’s a damn nuisance .. any idea what could be causing this to happen? because it’s not like I purchased the bulbs from a different place.. could it be causing this because the company I bought it from updated their bulbs?
There are two other options. 1). Older cars that use a relay - replace the relay with an led relay. 2). For computer controlled systems, using the obd port and the manufacturers code reader/programming software, turn off the warning.
You noted that "in some cases it will even cut the power to that circuit." This appears to be my dilemma, after using aftermarket led plate lights. I've replaced them with standard lamps, but the power is cut off. How do I restore it?? (I've confirmed there is no power in the line feeding the lamps.) Thanks!
In my case, its been several years so I forget the specifics (and I no longer have the car). However, I had Audi reset something, which worked, but ultimately had to be done again. For anyone out there looking to go LED as replacement anywhere, make sure the new lamp accounts for CANbus errors!!
I have tried fitting led bulbs both canbus ones and others with a canbus plug in resistor kit neither work I always get a low beam error on my volvo v50 2004/05 model
Hi Ok, this may be a tad out of your remit, but I have a 2016 MAN TGX truck, 24 volts, with a standard filament bulb rear light units. I have bought OEM LED rear lamp units, the same as supplied to same higher sec MAN TGX's and made by Hella, in the hope that it is just an easy swap as they have the same twist fit electrical connection. When connected they all work perfectly well. However, the dash shows fault codes for all the individual lights, brake, tail, indicator, and fog. Is there a way around this please? I assumed that any resister needed would have been incorporated within the light unit itself. Many thanks Jason
I have a 2005 bmw e61 and have bought an led trailer board. With this board the brakes work and indicators but the side lights and reverse and fog constantly flicker as if the test is running. Do you sell anything or should I simply fit some 15ohm resistor in line? Thanks
Hi guys, just a question. I own an 1.8tfsi 8p a3 which i decided to get led bulbs, unfortunately i was getting a error dashboard lamp saying - left/right dipped headlights. I bought a decoder but i still get the ssme msg is there any particular reason for it ? Just saying that the led are 30w and the regular Bosch h7 where 55w ones. Is that the issue behind this error?
Thx for the video. I have an issue for my Mercedes Parking light (H6W bulb). Recently, I replaced the front headlamp housing with thicker wire (14 awg, high temperature 200c) and expect it should be better. After that, it returns be dashboard error, disregard using OEM halogen bulb 6w or Aftermarket LED with Canbus error correction. I have ordered Philips 5W Canbus resistor to do this issue fix, am I doing right? Or I should get back to thinner wiring? Thanks again for advice.
I've just added some aftermarket lights to my motorbike and I'm getting the Engine Management Light come on due to the higher resistance making the ecu think my brake is constantly being applied (and the cruise control isn't working because of this). The question is, how do I know what wattage resistor kit I'd need to lower the resistance so the bike thinks everything is normal ? I'm assuming the higher the wattage the lower the resistance will be ?
I had bought a P21W bulb which is an LED bulb, and after the replacement of the brake light bulb, now i have glow plug warning light, the bulb lights very good and it works very well but this massage on the dashboard is pain in the ass. So, what resistor i should use, the bulb has 15 leds with power consumption of 0.25 of singled led witch is = to 3.75 W of the bulb in total. I'll be very thankful if someone done it to explain how to do it, but my bulb holder is one peace on which all the bulbs are on metal paths i had only one main connector to them.
Hi, I did the same as you only with the Osram 21 W CANBUS because the turn signals are my w21w bulbs. The bulbs are currently LEDriving Osram SL w3 * 16q but it still emits an error and after 2 flashes it starts flashing rapidly wen my turn signal is on. I only connected the back right, so when that continued to happen, I stopped working. Maybe I should also connect the back left? Although the system recognizes the exact location of the faulty bulb. Opel insignia A Facelift 2014. Sports Tourer What should I do? I want to say that even one reverse light bulb died! It does not show an error on the board! I replaced both with Philips LED and it immediately showed an error ??? ;) I also need resistors here? Should they be 16w exclusively for the W16W bulb?
Upgraded lights in my vehicle - LED in high beam, H7/H11 in fog lamp , HID in low beam.... Added addition relay for CAN bus error cancellation.... Still on the fog lamps the MID gets reset any solution for this?
I have canbus led's for front/rear indicators fitted to BMW M4. There is a slight flicker on all bulbs when the vehicle's canbus system scans for faults. otherwise no issues. I fitted 50W 6 ohms resisters and they actually caused hyperflash. What do you recommend and would a low watt bulb in parallel do the same job? Keith
I’ve upgraded my canbus in my mk5 gti, I’ve gotten 2 errors saying right rear reverse and left rear fog lights aren’t working, will these bulbs solve the issue? Thanks
That is the error meaning they won't work and in England it is illegal to have flashing lights on your car unless they are orange. Flashing white lights might make someone think you are letting them out of a junction and they pull out on you. I found this out.
This is all well and good but the headlight indicator bulb holders on my bmw 135i have no wires its a plastic holder that comes completely off of the car all connections are internal.
Can you disconnect resistor after the LED turned on ? If canbus just check resistance before applying power then above treat should work. Since we can use small wattage resistor to fool the system
My understanding about how these bulb-out systems work is that they periodically send a low voltage pulse (not enough to illuminate an incandescent bulb). The computer uses this to calculate the resistance of the filament and thus determine if it is good. It would be interesting if a circuit provides a dummy load resistor when the circuit is off (to fool canbus pulses), but then removes the dummy load when the circuit is on. Should be a simple circuit that could be incorporated in the LED bulb itself.
@@egoequus6263 that’s what I’m taking about. The number one advantage of LEDS is the massively reduced power draw. Putting a resistor in there negates that. If they can be “started” with the resistor and then it be removed from the circuit that’s better than nothing.
You talk about “adding resistance to the circuit” but a parallel resistor REDUCES the net electrical resistance. Only adding in series will increase circuit resistance - simple electricity! 👹R = (r1 +r2)/(r1 x r2), which is always lower than either individual resistor. Is that what is required?
He means to say "add" parallel resistance; also, I'm sure CANBUS does not measure resistance, it likely measures current draw or voltage drop of a circuit. Mercedes LEDs in the headlights will stop the error with a 10 or 12 Ohm resistor in parallel with the LED bulb where the computer thinks there should be a 55W headlight bulb. A 10 Ohm resistor will add about 18.5 watts of power draw, in addition to the few watts of the actual LED bulb, and that is enough to fool Mercedes. Buy at least the 50-watt metal heat-sinked resistors and you shouldn't ever have a problem with burning out the resistor.
Does anyone here know (OP probably won't answer) what is the minimum wattage consumption to fool the CANBUS error warning? For example, with an incandescent T10 (168/194) bulb that consumes 5W, would the LED need to consume 5W or can it get by consuming less, such as 3W?
Mercedes LEDs in the headlights will stop the error with a 10 or 12 Ohm resistor in parallel with the LED bulb. I say 10 or 12 Ohm because on the same car, the 12 worked for one bulb, but I had to go to 10 for the other bulb to get it to stop turning on and off. Buy at least the 50 watt metal heat-sinked resistors.
I'm sure CANBUS does not measure resistance, it likely measures current draw or voltage drop of a circuit. Mercedes LEDs in the headlights will stop the error with a 10 or 12 Ohm resistor in parallel with the LED bulb where the computer thinks there should be a 55W headlight bulb. A 10 Ohm resistor will add about 18.5 watts of power draw, in addition to the few watts of the actual LED bulb, and that is enough to fool Mercedes. Buy at least the 50-watt metal heat-sinked resistors and you shouldn't ever have a problem with burning out the resistor.
Mercedes LEDs in the headlights will stop the error with a 10 or 12 Ohm resistor in parallel with the LED bulb. I say 10 or 12 Ohm because on the same car, the 12 worked for one bulb, but I had to go to 10 for the other bulb to get it to stop turning on and off. Buy at least the 50 watt metal heat-sinked resistors.
Yeah,I’d be more impressed or convinced at least if you actually took a late model car, replaced the tungsten bulbs with LEDs, generate an error code, install your resistor(s) and then SHOW the error code disappear 🫠
Two minor observations:
1) Power, including dissipated power, power that just get turned into heat, is measured as I^2 * R (I squared R -- the current through the device in amps times the resistance of the device in ohms. ( I think I might have seen a formula with a "v" Flash up on my screen. V, as in "voltage". Maybe not. Power in watts is also the product of current times voltage: P (watts) = i (amps) * V (volts).
2) Ohms law applies to this game. So do Kirchhoff's laws. Ohms law says that I=E/R (the flow of current is equal to the voltage divided by the resistance). So.... if your tungsten lamp consumes 21 watts when lit with 12 volt power in your car (call it really 13.2 volt power -- buss voltages in cars are typically more than 13 volts, and not much more than 14 volts). Then we have 21/13.2 = about a 1.6 amp draw .... or 1600 milliamps. R= E/I, so the nominal resistance of the bulb is 13.2 / 1.6 or about 8 ohms. (Some other fun facts are involved... a tungsten filament has the least resistance when cold, gains resistance when glowing.) Depending upon how much current flow the measuring scheme in the car is really looking for, 10, maybe 12 ohms out in the circuit is probably going to work.
The LED bulbs draw some current. typically less than half an amp (450 milliamps for a replacement backup light, say). So, Kirchhoff''s :Laws about current through a node and voltage drops around a loop tell us that we can put the half amp through the LED assembly, and then just have a parallel circuit that 'wastes' something like another amp, maybe a little less. About a 15 ohm resistor becomes the likely candidate (13.2/15 is about .9). And for wattage: 1 (.9) amp times 13.2 volts requires about a 15 watt 15 ohm resistor.
Your situation will be particular to its facts, BUT there is no good reason to expect any of this to work without doing the calculations. AND, if you want to be really cool, either get a (small) pile of wire wound resistors or a fairly meaty rheostat, put it on the light circuit (START from the lower current, higher resistance end of things, and work toward the point at which the dashboard "thinks" you've put the bulb back in. (Then let other people know on you car model "chat group"....etc.).
Thanks for the "minor" observations, that was exactly what I was searching for (and obviously as it's not "easy", it's more often than not overlooked for cheap/useless advices and "solutions")!
Good Lord. Your reply might cause me to not watch the video...
The thing I love most is Osram selling you a £1.20 power resistor for £20!
Scotch locks, the work of the devil! The principle of this video is great and informative, but DO NOT USE Scotch Locks!!!
Use them assuming they will fail at some stage (and they will do eventually) the best (only?) way is to solder the resistor into the circuit and insulate the joint properly, preferably with heat shrink covering. I've spent many a cold, dark, winters night tracing open circuits in electrical systems often finding a corroded or vibrated to failure Scotch Lock to be the culprit, they were designed as a temporary repair to an electrical circuit and for that they are good but they hate damp and vibrations which will cause them to fail eventually.
Tell me if I am wrong but by adding a resistor dont we lose the reason to use the led in the first place lower wattage. I say this cause the led bulb and the resistor wattage is probably close to the damn incandescent in the first place
It's not about the wattage savings. It's about the a) reliability of LED (much longer life), and 2) brighter light.
I use LED because they are crispier, flash quickly.
Exactly my point they say save power then add resistors it brings it back up again and they get damm hot
I tried this in my BMW X3 (2017 model year US) it did not work. I bought the Philips 5W resistor and installed it using the wire taps and got error in the dash, then I peeled the wires and soldered the resistor on and still got error. Not loving this Canbus feedback loop
Hi there... Great video BTW. My question relates to the specific size requirements of the resistors. Eg: I have replaced all my bumper tailight globes in my Audi Q3 with LED globes, however although they purport to be 'error free' my dash warning messages tell another story. Being as all these globes are W16W 12V... Does that mean I need to find resistors that are specifically 16 Watt for the LED's not to trigger a CANBUS error message... What ideal size resistors should I look for. Your help in advance is much appreciated!
If you have any questions, feel free to ask, doesn’t answer even ONE of them! ☹️
You beat me to that comment, exactly, why say ask?
He meant that another commenter would answer the questions, not he.
These resistors will cancel out the error code and will not tell you if the bulb has gone, so really this is not the way to do it as you wont know if there is a bulb out on your car as the resistor will still be making the car think the bulb is fine with the resistance. How about changing the the car relays to LED relays ?
I don't think the CANBUS measures resistance, I think it measures current flow, or voltage drop of the circuit.
Hello, i would like to know , whats the resistence value , on each One off those resistors.
Thanks. Power dissipation (wastage) is a shame though. The Decoder looks to be the best option if possible
Had aftermarket led bulbs for my 2008 Audi for about five or or years now with no issues and bought them from a place called ddm in Huntington Beach ca .. well recently one of my bulbs burnt out and went and bought some new ones from them.. so here is my issue. When I first start up my car my dash will display dipped headlights but as soon as I turn on the lights the message immediately disappears and btw both lights turn on perfectly fine.. I guess it’s not a big deal but it’s a damn nuisance .. any idea what could be causing this to happen? because it’s not like I purchased the bulbs from a different place.. could it be causing this because the company I bought it from updated their bulbs?
There are two other options.
1). Older cars that use a relay - replace the relay with an led relay.
2). For computer controlled systems, using the obd port and the manufacturers code reader/programming software, turn off the warning.
You noted that "in some cases it will even cut the power to that circuit." This appears to be my dilemma, after using aftermarket led plate lights. I've replaced them with standard lamps, but the power is cut off. How do I restore it?? (I've confirmed there is no power in the line feeding the lamps.) Thanks!
I’m having this same problem, did you have any luck with it?
In my case, its been several years so I forget the specifics (and I no longer have the car). However, I had Audi reset something, which worked, but ultimately had to be done again. For anyone out there looking to go LED as replacement anywhere, make sure the new lamp accounts for CANbus errors!!
Thanks man This helpes alot I was not sure if I need to cut wire or if matter the way you connect to + -
I have tried fitting led bulbs both canbus ones and others with a canbus plug in resistor kit neither work I always get a low beam error on my volvo v50 2004/05 model
hi i got a question, If i was to tap (drl's) into the parking light wire, where would i tap into? the part above the resistor or below the resistor.
Hi
Ok, this may be a tad out of your remit, but I have a 2016 MAN TGX truck, 24 volts, with a standard filament bulb rear light units. I have bought OEM LED rear lamp units, the same as supplied to same higher sec MAN TGX's and made by Hella, in the hope that it is just an easy swap as they have the same twist fit electrical connection. When connected they all work perfectly well. However, the dash shows fault codes for all the individual lights, brake, tail, indicator, and fog. Is there a way around this please? I assumed that any resister needed would have been incorporated within the light unit itself.
Many thanks
Jason
I have a 2005 bmw e61 and have bought an led trailer board. With this board the brakes work and indicators but the side lights and reverse and fog constantly flicker as if the test is running. Do you sell anything or should I simply fit some 15ohm resistor in line? Thanks
Hi guys, just a question. I own an 1.8tfsi 8p a3 which i decided to get led bulbs, unfortunately i was getting a error dashboard lamp saying - left/right dipped headlights. I bought a decoder but i still get the ssme msg is there any particular reason for it ? Just saying that the led are 30w and the regular Bosch h7 where 55w ones. Is that the issue behind this error?
Thx for the video. I have an issue for my Mercedes Parking light (H6W bulb).
Recently, I replaced the front headlamp housing with thicker wire (14 awg, high temperature 200c) and expect it should be better. After that, it returns be dashboard error, disregard using OEM halogen bulb 6w or Aftermarket LED with Canbus error correction.
I have ordered Philips 5W Canbus resistor to do this issue fix, am I doing right? Or I should get back to thinner wiring?
Thanks again for advice.
I've just added some aftermarket lights to my motorbike and I'm getting the Engine Management Light come on due to the higher resistance making the ecu think my brake is constantly being applied (and the cruise control isn't working because of this). The question is, how do I know what wattage resistor kit I'd need to lower the resistance so the bike thinks everything is normal ? I'm assuming the higher the wattage the lower the resistance will be ?
I had bought a P21W bulb which is an LED bulb, and after the replacement of the brake light bulb, now i have glow plug warning light, the bulb lights very good and it works very well but this massage on the dashboard is pain in the ass. So, what resistor i should use, the bulb has 15 leds with power consumption of 0.25 of singled led witch is = to 3.75 W of the bulb in total.
I'll be very thankful if someone done it to explain how to do it, but my bulb holder is one peace on which all the bulbs are on metal paths i had only one main connector to them.
Hi, I did the same as you only with the Osram 21 W CANBUS because the turn signals are my w21w bulbs. The bulbs are currently LEDriving Osram SL w3 * 16q but it still emits an error and after 2 flashes it starts flashing rapidly wen my turn signal is on. I only connected the back right, so when that continued to happen, I stopped working. Maybe I should also connect the back left? Although the system recognizes the exact location of the faulty bulb. Opel insignia A Facelift 2014. Sports Tourer What should I do? I want to say that even one reverse light bulb died! It does not show an error on the board! I replaced both with Philips LED and it immediately showed an error ??? ;) I also need resistors here? Should they be 16w exclusively for the W16W bulb?
Upgraded lights in my vehicle - LED in high beam, H7/H11 in fog lamp , HID in low beam.... Added addition relay for CAN bus error cancellation.... Still on the fog lamps the MID gets reset any solution for this?
I have canbus led's for front/rear indicators fitted to BMW M4. There is a slight flicker on all bulbs when the vehicle's canbus system scans for faults. otherwise no issues. I fitted 50W 6 ohms resisters and they actually caused hyperflash. What do you recommend and would a low watt bulb in parallel do the same job? Keith
How do you install this on a 2014 Volkswagen Passat connection is inside the housing for head light bulb
So, how hot those resistors gets during the long drive in summer?
HOT man! 🥵 You should tap-screw them into metal if possible. They can melt through zip-ties.
I’ve upgraded my canbus in my mk5 gti, I’ve gotten 2 errors saying right rear reverse and left rear fog lights aren’t working, will these bulbs solve the issue? Thanks
Whats wrong when after putting a led bulb your dash lights starts blinking when you depress the brake pedal?
That is the error meaning they won't work and in England it is illegal to have flashing lights on your car unless they are orange. Flashing white lights might make someone think you are letting them out of a junction and they pull out on you.
I found this out.
@@EnglishLaw it was my cars incompatibility with anything led that has canbus in all my brake light system.
jeep 2017 limited - showed error code. Do I need to order a CANbus LED 194 ?
This is all well and good but the headlight indicator bulb holders on my bmw 135i have no wires its a plastic holder that comes completely off of the car all connections are internal.
Can you disconnect resistor after the LED turned on ? If canbus just check resistance before applying power then above treat should work. Since we can use small wattage resistor to fool the system
My understanding about how these bulb-out systems work is that they periodically send a low voltage pulse (not enough to illuminate an incandescent bulb). The computer uses this to calculate the resistance of the filament and thus determine if it is good. It would be interesting if a circuit provides a dummy load resistor when the circuit is off (to fool canbus pulses), but then removes the dummy load when the circuit is on. Should be a simple circuit that could be incorporated in the LED bulb itself.
@@egoequus6263 that’s what I’m taking about. The number one advantage of LEDS is the massively reduced power draw. Putting a resistor in there negates that. If they can be “started” with the resistor and then it be removed from the circuit that’s better than nothing.
Thanks
You talk about “adding resistance to the circuit” but a parallel resistor REDUCES the net electrical resistance. Only adding in series will increase circuit resistance - simple electricity! 👹R = (r1 +r2)/(r1 x r2), which is always lower than either individual resistor. Is that what is required?
He means to say "add" parallel resistance; also, I'm sure CANBUS does not measure resistance, it likely measures current draw or voltage drop of a circuit. Mercedes LEDs in the headlights will stop the error with a 10 or 12 Ohm resistor in parallel with the LED bulb where the computer thinks there should be a 55W headlight bulb. A 10 Ohm resistor will add about 18.5 watts of power draw, in addition to the few watts of the actual LED bulb, and that is enough to fool Mercedes. Buy at least the 50-watt metal heat-sinked resistors and you shouldn't ever have a problem with burning out the resistor.
Does anyone here know (OP probably won't answer) what is the minimum wattage consumption to fool the CANBUS error warning? For example, with an incandescent T10 (168/194) bulb that consumes 5W, would the LED need to consume 5W or can it get by consuming less, such as 3W?
Do i need to put a rezistor to every single bulb? Break/turn signals..etc???
To every cheap LED yes. Lots of trouble. Just choose the right bulbs. Search amazon and look at the reviews.
I have hids on my ram and only one turns on it’s a 2015 ram 2500 i here with this error corrector will fix it
Headlight led bulbs for Audi 2006. H7 for headlight and h11 for fog light. What load resistor would I need?
Mercedes LEDs in the headlights will stop the error with a 10 or 12 Ohm resistor in parallel with the LED bulb. I say 10 or 12 Ohm because on the same car, the 12 worked for one bulb, but I had to go to 10 for the other bulb to get it to stop turning on and off. Buy at least the 50 watt metal heat-sinked resistors.
How many ohm's is the resistor?
I'm sure CANBUS does not measure resistance, it likely measures current draw or voltage drop of a circuit. Mercedes LEDs in the headlights will stop the error with a 10 or 12 Ohm resistor in parallel with the LED bulb where the computer thinks there should be a 55W headlight bulb. A 10 Ohm resistor will add about 18.5 watts of power draw, in addition to the few watts of the actual LED bulb, and that is enough to fool Mercedes. Buy at least the 50-watt metal heat-sinked resistors and you shouldn't ever have a problem with burning out the resistor.
I tried canbus bulbs on my 2003 CL55. I give up. I will stick with the old tech
How's your "solution" *any* different?!
Hi I've got 2019 sprinters I am fitting la night bars front back and side do I need a resistor on all 4 looms I cut in to
Win win situation for LED with canbus for lower power draw? Seriously? Resistor will bring power draw to same level as non LED bulb.
What's the resistor 's value in ohms?
Mercedes LEDs in the headlights will stop the error with a 10 or 12 Ohm resistor in parallel with the LED bulb. I say 10 or 12 Ohm because on the same car, the 12 worked for one bulb, but I had to go to 10 for the other bulb to get it to stop turning on and off. Buy at least the 50 watt metal heat-sinked resistors.
Hi. Thanks for the video. Do these resistors get very hot and risking damage to the wiring harness?
Yes.
Mount the resistor to a metal surface.
I fitted your "canbus" leds to my caddy and they created nothing but errors 😔
OK!!!
No benefit of 2saving your your battery" and saving fuel - if the CANBUS resistor is using same power as a filament bulb!! - old git, UK
Yeah,I’d be more impressed or convinced at least if you actually took a late model car, replaced the tungsten bulbs with LEDs, generate an error code, install your resistor(s) and then SHOW the error code disappear 🫠