This course is proof of the saying, "the best things in life are free." I'm never going to tailor a man's jacket, but what is here has already made me a better sewist (at close to age 80!) Kudos to Reza for excellent organization, modeling, and all-around teaching technique.
Can you please share, when you’re drafting your sleeve pattern that you’re using for this demo, how much longer do you make the inside under sleeve to account for the stretching you do to the curve of the inner upper sleeve? If my question makes sense… Thanks!
I will share the draft of the sleeves in the upcoming modules. But to answer your question directly, somewhere between 3/4" (2cm) to 7/8" (2.2cm), depending on how much your fabric stretches. Reza
How are edge to fold transfers affected by fabrics with stretch? Do you have to alter your technique? Also- you are a phenomenal teacher! I am absolutely loving your classes and have learned so much- I had been searching for so much of this information for MONTHS, however one doesn’t know what they do not know, which makes self guided research quite challenging. Thank you so much for these videos!❤
Thank you for your kind compliments. I appreciate it. The technique and principle remain the same. However, often, stretch fabrics automatically get an edge to fold transfer as the fabric naturally stretches out on the edges. Therefore, less manipulation is needed. But for permanent fixture, sometimes working them with the iron is needed. But very gently. You must test per fabric. Like an illustrator who always scribbles the corner of the paper to test out a marker or pen. Reza
Thank you for this! I can't wait for the next video. Can you explain why you are basting the hindarm seam further in and not on the thread marked line as you did for the other seam?
Hello Anita. Generally, the mark-stitches mark the edge of the paper pattern. Anything beyond that is what we call inlay, which is extra fabric, incase we need to make alterations. The paper pattern includes a seam allowance of 1cm (3/8"). That's the reason for stitching behind the mark stitches. I'm essentially taking a seam off the edge of the pattern which is where my sewing line is. Reza
@@OFFICIALISOT ah yes, thanks for reminding me. I am used to work with paper patterns that do not include seam allowances, so I was a bit confused. Now it makes sense. 😅
30:21 I think i remember you basting the vertical front dart a bit differently in the old version of your series, by also basting an horizontal pleat to simulate the cut that you will do later for the pocket. I feel like this other way would be a slightly more acurate basting thant this one, so i wonder what are the reasons of this change ? My guess is that because you have to offset the fabric quite a bit to create the horizontal pleat, this make the fabric inside of the pleat sit a bit weirdly and it may create later on some permanent creases that we don’t want. Can you correct me or explain further ? I think i understand the reason behind most of the changes I remember you made between the old and the current course but this one remains quite mysterious to me. I hope my question was intelligible, i feel like it’s not quite clear… Thanks you !
Your question is intelligent and excellent. The reason is simple: the pleat that I used was wrong. It reshapes the bottom of the jacket. It is not how the final garment is going to be. There won't be a horizontal pocket dart in the end jacket. Therefore, no horizontal pleat is needed. It will only be needed if the final jacket will actually have a horizontal dart in that area. Reza
Please I have a question,im a tailor and i sew for clients with different sizes,please can you show me a video or an explanation of how i can use your pattern for different types of bodies? Thanks
This course is proof of the saying, "the best things in life are free." I'm never going to tailor a man's jacket, but what is here has already made me a better sewist (at close to age 80!) Kudos to Reza for excellent organization, modeling, and all-around teaching technique.
Can you please share, when you’re drafting your sleeve pattern that you’re using for this demo, how much longer do you make the inside under sleeve to account for the stretching you do to the curve of the inner upper sleeve? If my question makes sense… Thanks!
I will share the draft of the sleeves in the upcoming modules. But to answer your question directly, somewhere between 3/4" (2cm) to 7/8" (2.2cm), depending on how much your fabric stretches.
Reza
How are edge to fold transfers affected by fabrics with stretch? Do you have to alter your technique?
Also- you are a phenomenal teacher! I am absolutely loving your classes and have learned so much- I had been searching for so much of this information for MONTHS, however one doesn’t know what they do not know, which makes self guided research quite challenging. Thank you so much for these videos!❤
Thank you for your kind compliments. I appreciate it.
The technique and principle remain the same. However, often, stretch fabrics automatically get an edge to fold transfer as the fabric naturally stretches out on the edges.
Therefore, less manipulation is needed. But for permanent fixture, sometimes working them with the iron is needed. But very gently.
You must test per fabric. Like an illustrator who always scribbles the corner of the paper to test out a marker or pen.
Reza
Thank you for this! I can't wait for the next video.
Can you explain why you are basting the hindarm seam further in and not on the thread marked line as you did for the other seam?
Hello Anita.
Generally, the mark-stitches mark the edge of the paper pattern. Anything beyond that is what we call inlay, which is extra fabric, incase we need to make alterations. The paper pattern includes a seam allowance of 1cm (3/8"). That's the reason for stitching behind the mark stitches. I'm essentially taking a seam off the edge of the pattern which is where my sewing line is.
Reza
@@OFFICIALISOT ah yes, thanks for reminding me. I am used to work with paper patterns that do not include seam allowances, so I was a bit confused. Now it makes sense. 😅
When we were striking out, our material, which we received on the fold. Was the 'right side' on the inside or out of the folded material? Thnx.
The right side was inside the fold :)
Reza
درود بر شما ، تدریس شنا رو خیلی دوست دارم تصمیم گرفتم زبان انگلیسی یاد بگیرم ک متوجه درسهای شما بشم🌹
.درود بر شما. افرین. مرسی که این درسها رو دنبال میکنین.
رضا
30:21 I think i remember you basting the vertical front dart a bit differently in the old version of your series, by also basting an horizontal pleat to simulate the cut that you will do later for the pocket. I feel like this other way would be a slightly more acurate basting thant this one, so i wonder what are the reasons of this change ? My guess is that because you have to offset the fabric quite a bit to create the horizontal pleat, this make the fabric inside of the pleat sit a bit weirdly and it may create later on some permanent creases that we don’t want. Can you correct me or explain further ? I think i understand the reason behind most of the changes I remember you made between the old and the current course but this one remains quite mysterious to me. I hope my question was intelligible, i feel like it’s not quite clear… Thanks you !
Your question is intelligent and excellent.
The reason is simple: the pleat that I used was wrong. It reshapes the bottom of the jacket. It is not how the final garment is going to be. There won't be a horizontal pocket dart in the end jacket. Therefore, no horizontal pleat is needed.
It will only be needed if the final jacket will actually have a horizontal dart in that area.
Reza
What brand/model is the iron that you are using?
Stirovap Italy
Reza
@@OFFICIALISOTis it the goliath version?
@@user-jy8km9xf7c I don't think so.
Reza
Please I have a question,im a tailor and i sew for clients with different sizes,please can you show me a video or an explanation of how i can use your pattern for different types of bodies? Thanks
And also how do you take measurements perfectly?
Hi Reza, I have a question, I am aware that the whole purpose of the series is for learning. But what size is the final product going to be?
Hello Simisonke.
The pattern that we're using is my personal pattern. I happen to be a 37 chest.
Reza
@@OFFICIALISOT Ok that's wonderful. It will fit me as well. 🙂