I’ve had this exact bike for 5 years now, mostly to save gas for a few years, then it became my main daily driver. Now retired and no longer worried for heavy traffic commuting, I’ve been curious how this compares to the off road kit, I got it when it still existed. Here’s a video of my acceleration at about 56-57v. Also any luck before after dyno? The off road kit made my low torque less, but top end was more.
I’ve had a scrambler since August of ‘22 and I’ve really been looking forward to the release of this controller since I first saw the announcement a while back! I’m assuming you already had the juiced off road controller upgrade, what were the top speeds compared to this controller under throttle only? I know you mentioned it most likely not going to affect top speed, however with the off road controller installed on my bike, I could only ever hit about 24-25mph throttle only, and I noticed that the amp draw is lower and lower as the speed increases. Will this 35amp controller be strong enough to push the motor to at least a slightly higher top speed, say 28-30 before the amp draw is reduced, or do you think it’ll just be torquey-er but still top out at 25mph the way that Juiced’s 25amp off road controller tops out at ? Thanks a ton, appreciate the time you’ve taken to put together a product like this and I’d love to know more
I have an original Scorpion. I’m in the process of modding, overhauling it. I’m considering a QS205. I would like to get up to 45. Kyle, do you think it’s realistic? Is there an easier (cheaper) way? wouldn’t mind turn signals, either.
I've got an older Lectric and I've been on a few hills that it just didn't have enough juice to get me up. I've been considering a front wheel drive kit for when you need a little extra boost. It needs to be very lightweight. Any ideas?
Will I still be able to go 28mph throttle only in level 5 (race mode)? I had to purchase the "off-road" controller as Juiced calls it, in order to achieve this.
Performance-wise how does a differ from the Juiced off-road controller the specs sound like they're the same, I do understand you can upgrade to a larger motor and you got a color display aside from that what is the difference, this is more expensive😢
I've been looking for the motor plug adapter to plug a 35 amp controller to a 750w motor that you mentioned. Do you sell them, or where did you find it?
I wonder if one day someone could make a 20" and 26" drop out size chart for rear hub motor compatibility? So say I could buy a Dual suspension Magicycle Deer and then can see if my Kepler motor and wheel would be a direct fit.👍 both being 52V 20 ah .. Just the Kepler is 8 or so mph faster.😂
someone help! my electric bike company (EBC) model c is 2.5 years old, 2,000 miles and the motor cuts out sometimes. several times it only lasted seconds but lately it just quits. Ive ridden it home in 1st gear and the next day seems fine for a few miles but cuts out again, ive completely stopped riding it as of june. I called them and they had me reprogram my console (even though its nearly identical to how I had it) and it hasn't changed anything. the guy said I can bring it in (to the shop in Huntington Beach, Ca) and I told him im in Virginia and he basically said bummer and I've heard nothing. does anyone know if its guaranteed? i think i remember 5 years for the motor, i'm guessing its prorated. No wrecks but 3 drops from stationary. does that void a warranty? Should I call them again and get more info? if i take it to a local shop will they call them for any kind of reimbursement? Im guessing maybe parts but not labor. please, any info would help.
@@markburton5292 i kinda looked at connections but i didnt really know what im doing. im great with anything mechical but i suck at electrical. my bike expertise does not convert to ebikes. i feel like im 6. do i need to take anything apart?
@@trailguy depending on the bike the motor will have a connection that you can pull apart to seperate it from the crontroler or one that has a fitting with a screw on cap that you need to unscrew before you can pull them appart to seperate. (you would have to do this to change the tube so look online on how to change the back tire for your bike and you can see how teh connecter is ment to come off you don't need to pull the tire off though). once seperated you want use a flash light and maybe a magnifying lens to look insde and check for corrosion. if there is any corosion you will want clean the contracts. to do that get a can of a electronics cleaner and spray it down ( break cleaner can work but I recomend electronics cleaner) and then use nylon brush like what you would find in a car battery cleaner (dont use a brush that has been used on a car battery though as you dont want to contaminate it and dont use a metalic brush ) and brush it down. clean both sides Once you are sure its clean give it another spray with the cleaner and let dry then put it back together making sure it is firmly and compleatly seated. also inspect your motor cable to make sure its not damaged.
@@markburton5292 thanks. ill do this tomorrow. athough, i dont suspect there's any corrosion because i dont ride it in the rain and it 's pretty new, but ill give it a try. perhaps it got wet on the way here from china before they assembled it in california.
why? i seriously looked at a juiced bike, and found so many kwality problems, i decided against it. if you have to fix all this stuff it's going to cost more than to buy something better.
You can put a web page up for your dyno data charts. That would be cool.
Love the Area 13 display especially having the time on the display .
I’ve had this exact bike for 5 years now, mostly to save gas for a few years, then it became my main daily driver. Now retired and no longer worried for heavy traffic commuting, I’ve been curious how this compares to the off road kit, I got it when it still existed. Here’s a video of my acceleration at about 56-57v. Also any luck before after dyno? The off road kit made my low torque less, but top end was more.
th-cam.com/video/mVlSGboUmgg/w-d-xo.htmlfeature=shared
I’ve had a scrambler since August of ‘22 and I’ve really been looking forward to the release of this controller since I first saw the announcement a while back! I’m assuming you already had the juiced off road controller upgrade, what were the top speeds compared to this controller under throttle only? I know you mentioned it most likely not going to affect top speed, however with the off road controller installed on my bike, I could only ever hit about 24-25mph throttle only, and I noticed that the amp draw is lower and lower as the speed increases. Will this 35amp controller be strong enough to push the motor to at least a slightly higher top speed, say 28-30 before the amp draw is reduced, or do you think it’ll just be torquey-er but still top out at 25mph the way that Juiced’s 25amp off road controller tops out at ? Thanks a ton, appreciate the time you’ve taken to put together a product like this and I’d love to know more
You should always have full throttle activated.
Agreed, that may be the only reason I don't buy this.
I have an original Scorpion. I’m in the process of modding, overhauling it. I’m considering a QS205. I would like to get up to 45. Kyle, do you think it’s realistic? Is there an easier (cheaper) way? wouldn’t mind turn signals, either.
I added a torque sensor to mine. Is there a option for this? I am using the juced bike torque sensor / cadence sensor .
I've got an older Lectric and I've been on a few hills that it just didn't have enough juice to get me up. I've been considering a front wheel drive kit for when you need a little extra boost. It needs to be very lightweight. Any ideas?
What bigger motor would you suggest for the juiced city scrambler?
Will I still be able to go 28mph throttle only in level 5 (race mode)? I had to purchase the "off-road" controller as Juiced calls it, in order to achieve this.
Performance-wise how does a differ from the Juiced off-road controller the specs sound like they're the same, I do understand you can upgrade to a larger motor and you got a color display aside from that what is the difference, this is more expensive😢
I've been looking for the motor plug adapter to plug a 35 amp controller to a 750w motor that you mentioned. Do you sell them, or where did you find it?
he does sell some motor adapters. If you go to his website and then search for motor it will come up with the ones he sells
Pls how can I change the unit from miles to KM with the colored display?
would this be a good upgrade for the hyperscrambler 2
Will the headlight and brake light still work with this controller?
I wonder if one day someone could make a 20" and 26" drop out size chart for rear hub motor compatibility? So say I could buy a Dual suspension Magicycle Deer and then can see if my Kepler motor and wheel would be a direct fit.👍 both being 52V 20 ah .. Just the Kepler is 8 or so mph faster.😂
someone help! my electric bike company (EBC) model c is 2.5 years old, 2,000 miles and the motor cuts out sometimes. several times it only lasted seconds but lately it just quits. Ive ridden it home in 1st gear and the next day seems fine for a few miles but cuts out again, ive completely stopped riding it as of june. I called them and they had me reprogram my console (even though its nearly identical to how I had it) and it hasn't changed anything. the guy said I can bring it in (to the shop in Huntington Beach, Ca) and I told him im in Virginia and he basically said bummer and I've heard nothing. does anyone know if its guaranteed? i think i remember 5 years for the motor, i'm guessing its prorated. No wrecks but 3 drops from stationary. does that void a warranty? Should I call them again and get more info? if i take it to a local shop will they call them for any kind of reimbursement? Im guessing maybe parts but not labor. please, any info would help.
Have you checked that your motor connectors are fully engaged and not corroded?
@@markburton5292 i kinda looked at connections but i didnt really know what im doing. im great with anything mechical but i suck at electrical. my bike expertise does not convert to ebikes. i feel like im 6. do i need to take anything apart?
@@trailguy depending on the bike the motor will have a connection that you can pull apart to seperate it from the crontroler or one that has a fitting with a screw on cap that you need to unscrew before you can pull them appart to seperate. (you would have to do this to change the tube so look online on how to change the back tire for your bike and you can see how teh connecter is ment to come off you don't need to pull the tire off though). once seperated you want use a flash light and maybe a magnifying lens to look insde and check for corrosion. if there is any corosion you will want clean the contracts. to do that get a can of a electronics cleaner and spray it down ( break cleaner can work but I recomend electronics cleaner) and then use nylon brush like what you would find in a car battery cleaner (dont use a brush that has been used on a car battery though as you dont want to contaminate it and dont use a metalic brush ) and brush it down. clean both sides Once you are sure its clean give it another spray with the cleaner and let dry then put it back together making sure it is firmly and compleatly seated. also inspect your motor cable to make sure its not damaged.
@@markburton5292 thanks. ill do this tomorrow. athough, i dont suspect there's any corrosion because i dont ride it in the rain and it 's pretty new, but ill give it a try. perhaps it got wet on the way here from china before they assembled it in california.
the coupon does not work
why? i seriously looked at a juiced bike, and found so many kwality problems, i decided against it. if you have to fix all this stuff it's going to cost more than to buy something better.
Well he had an older one, because I have a later Camp Scrambler and it has zero issues. I'm interested in a but more tourqe though.
"Promosm" 😉