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Utterly inspiring and inspired, that’s you Charlie. Not afraid to fail in order to learn and to help others do the same. Long may your channel and your endeavours continue.
Thanks for the tips, Charlie. I just finished my own log store and this video was very handy. I simplified by avoiding the tenons, but everything else went as planned. I spent an age planning tiling. Cutting the notches in the rafters was harder than I expected without the proper tools
Great vid. Thanks.Two ways to easily get MOT out of the bag. 1) when it's being dropped off by the truck cut the bottom of the bag so it all goes on to the ground. Put a tarp and if you have it an old board down first. All the MOT will be loose and easy to shovel up. With the tarp its easy to clean up after you've moved it 2) Put a tarp (better with a board on top) as close to the bag as you can. Split the bag on two sides. The MOT will fall out and you can give it a helping hand with a rake or something. So easy to just shovel off the the board. Keep the vids coming. Cheers
I like the lessons learnt at the end of this video. I agree the roof could have been a lower pitch but I actually like the current pitch more! Thanks for the brilliant video! That expanding foam glue is amazing!
Thanks, I appreciate that. I've got an update video coming out just after Christmas - showing storage, wood splitting etc so keep an eye out for that 👊
Looks really nice, great job. You’ll probably want some shelves / dividers for when you start storing wood, otherwise you can only ever take the stuff from the top
I agree with Daniel, great job - I built one very similar at the side of my garage. I dimensioned it on 3 standard pallets, so there's air circulation below the logs too - can always replace pallets if they rot. After the first year I included dividers, so I can separate softwood from hardwood and use them at different rates. Also added mini guttering after the first year - now have no drips landing on the logs when the wind blows
Thanks Paul. There is a glaring error though - I didn't install any ridge tiles, I think subconsciously thinking the flashing would cover the overlap but it hasn't quite so there's one modification I need. I think there will be a video #2 as the stacking of the wood is going to need some careful consideration too.
Be careful stacking the logs in there Charlie, if they're touching the wall you'll introduce an easy way for moisture to travel past the DPC. Either stack them so they don't touch the wall or put something on the wall to protect it, but that could also cause the same issue depending on what you use. We built free standing log stores so we didn't have to worry about it.
@@CharlieDIYte Ideally you want all the logs to be free standing with around an inch or enough room for a mouse between the stacks to have good airflow. Also on the topic of airflow I would have made it wide enough to use pallets as a base for the wood so you get good airflow underneath it as well. Also you don't want to cover wood too much, it's better to have wood exposed to both the rain and sun than no sun at all.
@@Ben-fk9ey I'd go as far as leave wood out in the summer and let it get rained on. Similar for winter if the wood wont be ready for this year. I don't know where/when/who - but drying (sap) logs in rivers was a done thing.
Cracking build mate 👍 I put a pallet base in my log store to allow airflow and stop the bottom layer of logs from getting wet from water splashing from the roof and any standing water. It’s ideal.
Great video, a few points you may wish to consider for your follow up videos: 1) Guttering will prevent water splash back, so a useful addition, as a rainwater harvesting system. Raise the barrel above ground so you and use a hozelock connector or a watering can. The higher the barrel the greater the water pressure that will come out of the hose. You will be surprised at how slow it flows out of the hose as the height or head drops. 2) A shallower roof angle would allow you to raise the front entrance and stack without hitting your head on the tiles. 3) Logs ideally should be split as they will season quicker and start quicker in your log burner. 4) Logs need airflow preferably through the pile, so a system of raising the base, 2x4's, pallets, even black plastic pallets anything that allows air to get underneath and percolate through the pile. 5) The oldest most seasoned log is always at the base at the back! Dividing the store into bays would allow you to store in batches, then burn each bay in rotation starting with the oldest, so you always have a seasoned bay. 6) If the logs are split into quadrants then stacked, you will get something like 30% more into any given space. 7) A black or say say slate roof will heat up quicker than a lighter colour tile, drawing more air in from the base through the pile. I have used black bitumen roofing sheets on mine due to budget restraints. I liked your roofing explanation by the way, there's more to roofing that it apears.
Thanks so much for this. Such brilliant advice. You and a few others have made me realise I need to plan the stacking very carefully, and although you've been kind about my roofing for some reason I decided not to add ridge tiles, so that'll need modifying. There will definitely need to be a second video and I'll give you a shout out for taking the time to send me all that advice. 👊
Yes, the guttering is a good idea to keep the ground dry if you don't have gravel down. I save the rainwater and dip a watering can in the top when needed rather than wait ages for the little tap to fill it.
Another great video. I love that you let people know what tools you are going to use up front and have a summary that includes what you might do differently if you were to do it again. You are lucky that you are not in North America as you aren't a fan of Robertson screw heads. The most common one is the Phillips screw head (+) followed by the flat head (-). In Canada the Robertson is more popular as the inventor was from here. There are still times when all one may get is a Phillips head screw. The only time we really see the Torx screws in Canada is with electronics.
Thanks buddy and I'm very humbled my vid is reaching you guys! I was just really disappointed because the Robertson looks like such an awesome design (I was aware it came from Canada) but it seems very dependent on you having a bit trust was designed for the screws rather than a generic bit of the right size, otherwise you get a lot to camming out. Yes we still have mostly Phillips over here.
Great job Charlie, the finished result looks excellent and fits in perfectly against the garage. Thanks for showing all the detail of how you built it. Suggestion for connecting your Henry hoover to your router, I have a Henry as my workshop dust extraction, connected to a cyclone, and then a length of standard hoover hose to connect to the tools. I have adapters made out of 40mm white waste pipe - the hose fits snugly into one side, and to adapt it to the different tool ports have used either waste pipe connectors or reduced or increased the size of the waste pipe using a heat gun. Works perfectly and very low cost! There’s a video on James’ Man Cave channel on this. I’ve had mixed success with cement infill over the top of lead flashing. Even the stuff that our builders put in on the house extension has cracked and come loose over time. Think it really needs a more flexible jointing material like building selant
Thanks Geoffrey - some great tips there. Yes I'll see how I get on with the flashing. I've actually had to modify it to introduce some ridge tiles (the half length tiles to maintain the overlap) so I may have to redo the flashing in the spring. I'll check out that channel. Great suggestions on the vac connectors. 👊
Great isn't it! Like the one who pointed out I still needed eave tiles. Now installed and I need a storage system for the logs. 👍 There will be a video #2
Hi Charlie, when I made a wood store I used hit and miss on the sides to allow the air to circulate throw and dry the wood out Take care keep up the great work
Thanks. Except it needs a row of eave tiles - can't for the life of me figure out why I didn't bother with them. If the flashing was an inch or 25mm wider it wouldn't matter. Anyway now installed but I'll have to redo the flashing in the spring. There will be a second video talking about the log stacking and this point. 👍
@10:00 Agree with the adjustment on the rotating the tenon. One other point if you put them in the easier way you’ll also minimize cross grain, resulting in a stronger joint. As far as I can tell they’ve been installed face down instead of edge down.
There is a substitute for guttering; it's louvred strips that spread the drips over a bigger area. This Old House have a video about it done on a shed.
You want a build some sort of grid at the back to hold the logs away from the wall and allow a bit of airflow. And when you stack them don't stack too tightly - there should be enough space around the logs for a mouse to run through. You should be fine leaving the front open. As the logs dry out the grain tightens up and makes them much less prone to absorbing water so any rain tends to be on the outer surface only and dries out quickly when it stops raining.
Thanks. Apart from... missing the ridge tiles as someone has already pointed out. I didn't give them much thought as I think I was imagining the lead flashing would provide the requisite overlap. One for the update video...
Brilliant job mate, it looks great. Watched many of your diy videos for pointers on work I’ve done around the house but only just subscribed. Great channel 👍🏻
Great video Charlie, looks like a really satisfying project! I find the 16g nails work fine for panelling, but need to be fired in at opposing angles to stop pull out, also try to keep the head flush (again to reduce pull out), keep up the good work 👍🏻
Excellent project Charlie, that came out looking great, you certainly challenged yourself and tried some new skills along the way, so really worth it ! If you've got any hanging around it could be worth using some cut down pallets to stack the firewood off the ground. I have some (very) basic curtains on the front of my store made from 1m wide landscaping fabric weighted down with roofing batten screwed through at the bottom. As you say this doesn't look so nice but tbh I only have it up for the worst of the autumn/winter weather when you're not out there looking at it much anyway and having a number that are 1m wide means I can tie one up for regular access leaving the others down. Consider protecting the wall from damp logs too !
Thanks buddy. Humbled you're watching my vids in Canada. Yes we've got different stuff but I'm realising you and pretty much the rest of the world build houses better than we do!
Interesting project presented at a good pace with plenty of information. I'll be trying the floating tenons and I like the post and wall plate detailing. You may find it helpful to sub-divide in to bays so you can be filling one while emptying the other. I've built a few wood sheds and heat the house with a wood stove and find being able to start restocking before the whole store is empty very helpful. A small kindling shelf is also useful.
Thanks Rob. Yes I'm working on the storage at the moment. I'm putting a pallet base in and a shelf - and a trellis at the back to keep the wood off the garage wall. Haven't decided yet whether to subdivide with a vertical separator although I can see the sense of it. 👊
I'll look forward to seeing the results. Interesting points. It seems a shame to make such nice structure and then shove a few old pallets at the base. How about breaking up the pallets and just laying two parallel pieces at the base of each layer of firewood? About an inch gives plenty of ventilation space under the stack. Less room for vermin too. Given there's a roof and good ventilation I wouldn't have though it necessary to batton out the garage wall either. Happy stacking either way. In a separate topic - I was concerned our wood stove was causing particulates inside the house so bought a particulate meter. Interesting results and the stove is not a concern. Putting the toaster or oven on in the kitches sends it shooting up. Candles dangerously so! May be worth an episode to see what your findings are?
Wonderful work and lots of useful info in comments. I stack logs in layers between light battens tied to pallets and rafters then braced with thin rope every 1.5 metres. I tried to post a photo link but TH-cam blocked it. A shallower roof angle would make the edge higher, you are going to bang your head when stacking high, just like I do.
A super Job Charlie! The 45 degree angle was worth it as it matches the garage roof as you said. Id be happy with this as a porch or an arbor, never mind a log store. on that point, maybe a wisteria or a climbing rose growing up it? most would be frightened of a climber but I think it would really set it off
Thanks David. Yes I might do something similar over the front door. I've already had to make one modification though. For some reason I didn't bother with a ridge tile layer. They're now in but I'll have to redo the head flashing in the spring...
Very pretty but ... Put trellis on the wall to keep the logs off the masonry and pulling damp through. Put old pallets on the slabs to stop logs drawing up water and help dry from underneath. Finally, get some weed suppressing cloth and hang it on the sides and front and driving rain won't get in at all while the logs dry.
A tip when using lead sealant! Fill the entire gap with sealant all the way down the length of lead n then start at beginning with a wet finger simply dab the sealant, it will push in and not smear
Excellent video 👏. In my experience, digging stone out of bags is easier with a round head long handle shovel or pointed spade. They get into the stone much easier. I have both but the long handle round head comes in handy for all sorts, especially sifting my compost through my soil sieve and picking up doggy’s contributions..I’m sensitive to that one and being as far away as possible helps 🤢🤣🤦🏻
Another good DIY video Charlie, hats off to you the way you put your videos out knowing they are going to be scrutinised, 99.99% of DIYers would be delighted if our log store looked like yours 👌 I recently used 35 bags of that brand of postcrete and found quite a few with set lumps, just wondering if this was a one off with this brand?
Thanks Nigel, really appreciate that. Yes the scrutiny is one of those things - keeps me on my toes - like the guy who posted rightly just before you that I had forgotten the eave tiles. Still don't know why I didn't bother with them but they're in now but I'll have to redo the flashing! On the concrete that's not usual. I did have a big rock in one of my sacks but the sack had a cut in the side. Maybe yours did or moisture got in during the bagging up. Very frustrating for you!
Great video. I intend building a log store at my new house if all things go to plan. And will definitely be copying your design, taking into account the the things you said you might have done differently.
As a carpenter myself I can’t help but admire the work you do Charlie, great looking log store and well built. Can I ask what make those work trousers are that you’re wearing?
Thanks Andy, coming from a pro I really appreciate that. You certainly can. They're Ballyclare. Had them for years and love them. The black fleece I often wear is also Ballyclare. Originally both gifted to me but they don't pay me anything for the association.
Whilst the front will get more splash back on it, it will also get the most air. Stacks can end up leaning forward when they dry faster at the front - specially if stacked really wet/green.
Only thing I would comment on is possibly using metal brackets for the wooden posts. In some cases this can prevent the wood from rotting from moisture, I know you've used a shrink wrap around the posts before digging them in and it's covered by the roof so chances are it should be ok, but sometimes if the wind blows in rain the moisture can travel from the top of the post into the buried section where it can't dry out easily and causes rot to set in.
Yes that's a fair point. We'll see how we get on with it but I think it'll be a fair few years before I have any problems with it rotting. One thing I did forget was to put in a row of ridge tiles, now added. I'll mention this in the update video👍
Couple suggestions: Use cut down pallets on the RHS and front or you'll find it is a pain to stack the wood without it tumbling out - wood is not nice and round! You said the wood you have is pine - not good for wood burning logs - great for getting the fire going but not regular during as the resin will increase the risk of a chimney fire. If you have a corrugated liner this nicely traps the tar from the resin and increases the risk if a chimney fire - a concrete liner is best. The 45 degrees means you'll end up with more wasted 'roof' space for stacking wood. You should have had made a platform / work area next to the wood store for splitting / sawing the logs, so less of a walk from cutting to stacking. I didn't notice a path from the log store to the existing path - or will you be paddling in the mud from the log store to the other pathway?. A canopy would have been useful so that when you are collecting logs to bring into the house you and the logs don't get wet!. During a typical winter you can use 4 cu metres of wood, thus you should size your storage capacity to ensure you have space for more than one winters worth especially if it is a hard winter. A separate area for stacking kindling would be useful. The gravel at the front might be decorative not but once it is mixed with sawdust will give issues down the line.
Another excellent video, such good explanations and clear advice and tools required. Having the costings is also very useful. I wonder how long it took you to do and where you find the time especially in the winter when we are short on daylight.
Hi Charlie, please check with your house insurer as my friend had his renewal refused after he declared that he had added a log store to the side wall of his house ( I know yours is on the garage but worth checking) they refused to insure him as they said it was a fire risk.
That's a fair point I hadn't thought of. There's always something isn't there!! As you say, should be ok as it's a garage away from the house but if we ever convert it... I'll check.
@@jakejohnson_ it definitely isn't. And the logs would need a substantial fire to get them alight. If you put a heat source in between the oil tank and a log store the kerosene would be blazing log before the logs.
Lovely looking log store Charlie. The pitch is too steep though as it becomes a nuisance as you pile the logs up higher but I can see why you did it like that. 😊
Excellent video and great project, looks amazing! I particularly liked the detail on the lead flashing as that's something I've struggled with in the past, using flash band which is nightmare stuff to with with. If that was a rendered block wall with no convenient grout line to follow, how would you tackle it? Snap a chalk line and cut to it the same manner I suppose?
Thanks. Yes that is how I'd do it. There will be an update video on the log storage as I've had a lot of brilliant suggestions on this, plus I did have to modify the roof the other day because I didn't put any ridge tiles in for some reason. 🤦😉
I don’t think a bit of rain hitting the end of the logs will do any harm. Drying logs isn’t about the water content, it’s about drying them of their sap to keep your flu clean of creosote. The posts will rot at ground level over time so could probably do with some sort of protection.
I'm planning to treat the posts but I'll leave it a few months until the tanelised coating has lost some of its effect. It's very unlikely any of them will rot though as they're under cover.
@@grantcook5376 exactly, it’s the only point that really needs it. If you’ve ever had a rotten post and dug it out, you’ll find that what’s under ground in the wet earth doesn’t rot, what’s above the ground in the air doesn’t rot either, it’s just the couple of inches where the post meets the ground level
Great video Charlie. I used a platform of besser blocks to allow ventilation, reduce termite infestation and reduce rot/damp. I have the sides open and put a tarp down the front during winter. This allows ventilation and reduces rain ingress. Cafe blinds would be a step up if it is in a presentation area, mine is in a utility area so a tarp will do.
Thanks, yes from what you're all saying, I do need to give some thought to how to arrange the wood, rather than just chucking it in there. Will see if I need the tarp or not but at least I have the option. A green one works look quite smart 😉
Hi Charlie. I’m lucky to have a brick outbuilding about the size of a small garage, which is full too the gunnels with fire wood . Even after a couple of years storage , I still find I need to have the logs inside for a couple of days before I use them just to give them a final airing . Do you do a similar thing ? Grate project and will help others to decide how to go about a similar installation. Best wishes and kind regards as always 😀👍👍👍
Hi, good to hear from you - you too! I know what your mean. There will still be a bit of moisture in there. Do you open the store up on nice days to give it a bit of an airing? 👊
@@CharlieDIYte high Charlie I must confess I don’t , but being what we believe to have been an old pigsty it’s definitely no air tight . But having said that we did replace the roof earlier in the year with a new tile roof , so maybe you have a valid point . As a matter of interest I did invest in a heavy duty wood splitter some years ago, now that was a game changer as they say. Best wishes and kind regards as always 😀👍👍👍
Did the rear vertical posts need to go all the way down into the ground? Or would it have been strong enough to rely on fixings into the bricks and have floating vertical posts?
Hi Charlie if your view count goes up on this video it's me 😂 I'm trying to build my old log store scaled down version and I'm getting some great tips on setting the roof tiles out. I'd be properly stumped without your explanation 👍
Aw, thanks Melanie. Just remember those eave tiles at the top - which I forgot first time trying for some reason.. th-cam.com/video/2pM8Uo8C0yo/w-d-xo.htmlsi=9TZAYQltG1VvEsDb
The log store looks good. A job well done (as usual). I’m not to sure about the logs. You can dry them out as much as you like. They will not be great for burning. Even if they were free, it’s not worth it.
They're actually ok. Yes not as good as say ash or oak but well seasoned they burn with a good heat. Just need to make sure to get the temperature of the log burner right to prevent creosoting of the chimney.
That's video #2 I had a sneaking suspicion it wasn't as easy as just lobbing in the logs and I've had so many helpful suggestions as to how best to stack the wood. Also I wanted to talk about log splitting. 👍
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The poor slug didn’t know which way to go!
Fantastic video Charlie. Thanks for sharing.
I saw that!! 🤣
Utterly inspiring and inspired, that’s you Charlie. Not afraid to fail in order to learn and to help others do the same.
Long may your channel and your endeavours continue.
Thanks for the tips, Charlie. I just finished my own log store and this video was very handy. I simplified by avoiding the tenons, but everything else went as planned. I spent an age planning tiling. Cutting the notches in the rafters was harder than I expected without the proper tools
Great work. Glad you found the video useful and thanks for getting in touch. 👊
Great vid. Thanks.Two ways to easily get MOT out of the bag. 1) when it's being dropped off by the truck cut the bottom of the bag so it all goes on to the ground. Put a tarp and if you have it an old board down first. All the MOT will be loose and easy to shovel up. With the tarp its easy to clean up after you've moved it 2) Put a tarp (better with a board on top) as close to the bag as you can. Split the bag on two sides. The MOT will fall out and you can give it a helping hand with a rake or something. So easy to just shovel off the the board. Keep the vids coming. Cheers
Very good point mate, thanks for sharing 👊 Slight problem is I wasn't here when it was delivered 🤣
This video and all of your videos are fantastic. Really useful starting point when I'm learning. Thank you 👍
Thanks. Really chuffed you find them useful.
Looks great. I’ve done a similar structure. I use big supermarket cages to stack the wood - keeps it all tidy and lets air flow.
Thanks Olly, I appreciate the advice. Yes I think the stacking is going to need some serious thought. 👍
Me too! Shelves too. Just trying to work out how to get wood deliveries tipped straight in ...!
I like the lessons learnt at the end of this video. I agree the roof could have been a lower pitch but I actually like the current pitch more!
Thanks for the brilliant video!
That expanding foam glue is amazing!
Thanks, I appreciate that. I've got an update video coming out just after Christmas - showing storage, wood splitting etc so keep an eye out for that 👊
@@CharlieDIYte Will do indeed!
That's a beauty of a log store
Thanks 👊
Looks really nice, great job. You’ll probably want some shelves / dividers for when you start storing wood, otherwise you can only ever take the stuff from the top
Thanks Daniel. I agree, the storage needs some thought. 👍
I agree with Daniel, great job - I built one very similar at the side of my garage. I dimensioned it on 3 standard pallets, so there's air circulation below the logs too - can always replace pallets if they rot. After the first year I included dividers, so I can separate softwood from hardwood and use them at different rates. Also added mini guttering after the first year - now have no drips landing on the logs when the wind blows
Fantastic build there Charlie. I like the steep pitch. It looks classy and suits those rosemarys.
Thanks Paul. There is a glaring error though - I didn't install any ridge tiles, I think subconsciously thinking the flashing would cover the overlap but it hasn't quite so there's one modification I need. I think there will be a video #2 as the stacking of the wood is going to need some careful consideration too.
Be careful stacking the logs in there Charlie, if they're touching the wall you'll introduce an easy way for moisture to travel past the DPC. Either stack them so they don't touch the wall or put something on the wall to protect it, but that could also cause the same issue depending on what you use.
We built free standing log stores so we didn't have to worry about it.
That's a good point, thanks. I'll mull over how to get round that 👌
I'm thinking a good air gap between the stored wood and the wall will benefit both.
@@CharlieDIYte Ideally you want all the logs to be free standing with around an inch or enough room for a mouse between the stacks to have good airflow. Also on the topic of airflow I would have made it wide enough to use pallets as a base for the wood so you get good airflow underneath it as well.
Also you don't want to cover wood too much, it's better to have wood exposed to both the rain and sun than no sun at all.
@@Ben-fk9ey I'd go as far as leave wood out in the summer and let it get rained on. Similar for winter if the wood wont be ready for this year. I don't know where/when/who - but drying (sap) logs in rivers was a done thing.
@@CharlieDIYte stick a trellis on the wall
Cracking build mate 👍
I put a pallet base in my log store to allow airflow and stop the bottom layer of logs from getting wet from water splashing from the roof and any standing water. It’s ideal.
Thanks buddy. Yes I need to get some pallets 👌
Great video, a few points you may wish to consider for your follow up videos:
1) Guttering will prevent water splash back, so a useful addition, as a rainwater harvesting system. Raise the barrel above ground so you and use a hozelock connector or a watering can. The higher the barrel the greater the water pressure that will come out of the hose. You will be surprised at how slow it flows out of the hose as the height or head drops.
2) A shallower roof angle would allow you to raise the front entrance and stack without hitting your head on the tiles.
3) Logs ideally should be split as they will season quicker and start quicker in your log burner.
4) Logs need airflow preferably through the pile, so a system of raising the base, 2x4's, pallets, even black plastic pallets anything that allows air to get underneath and percolate through the pile.
5) The oldest most seasoned log is always at the base at the back! Dividing the store into bays would allow you to store in batches, then burn each bay in rotation starting with the oldest, so you always have a seasoned bay.
6) If the logs are split into quadrants then stacked, you will get something like 30% more into any given space.
7) A black or say say slate roof will heat up quicker than a lighter colour tile, drawing more air in from the base through the pile. I have used black bitumen roofing sheets on mine due to budget restraints.
I liked your roofing explanation by the way, there's more to roofing that it apears.
Thanks so much for this. Such brilliant advice. You and a few others have made me realise I need to plan the stacking very carefully, and although you've been kind about my roofing for some reason I decided not to add ridge tiles, so that'll need modifying. There will definitely need to be a second video and I'll give you a shout out for taking the time to send me all that advice. 👊
Yes, the guttering is a good idea to keep the ground dry if you don't have gravel down. I save the rainwater and dip a watering can in the top when needed rather than wait ages for the little tap to fill it.
Another great video. I love that you let people know what tools you are going to use up front and have a summary that includes what you might do differently if you were to do it again.
You are lucky that you are not in North America as you aren't a fan of Robertson screw heads. The most common one is the Phillips screw head (+) followed by the flat head (-). In Canada the Robertson is more popular as the inventor was from here. There are still times when all one may get is a Phillips head screw. The only time we really see the Torx screws in Canada is with electronics.
Thanks buddy and I'm very humbled my vid is reaching you guys! I was just really disappointed because the Robertson looks like such an awesome design (I was aware it came from Canada) but it seems very dependent on you having a bit trust was designed for the screws rather than a generic bit of the right size, otherwise you get a lot to camming out. Yes we still have mostly Phillips over here.
Great job Charlie, the finished result looks excellent and fits in perfectly against the garage. Thanks for showing all the detail of how you built it.
Suggestion for connecting your Henry hoover to your router, I have a Henry as my workshop dust extraction, connected to a cyclone, and then a length of standard hoover hose to connect to the tools. I have adapters made out of 40mm white waste pipe - the hose fits snugly into one side, and to adapt it to the different tool ports have used either waste pipe connectors or reduced or increased the size of the waste pipe using a heat gun. Works perfectly and very low cost! There’s a video on James’ Man Cave channel on this.
I’ve had mixed success with cement infill over the top of lead flashing. Even the stuff that our builders put in on the house extension has cracked and come loose over time. Think it really needs a more flexible jointing material like building selant
Thanks Geoffrey - some great tips there. Yes I'll see how I get on with the flashing. I've actually had to modify it to introduce some ridge tiles (the half length tiles to maintain the overlap) so I may have to redo the flashing in the spring. I'll check out that channel. Great suggestions on the vac connectors. 👊
Major case of log store envy! Good job looks great
Thanks Andy 👊
Every building expert in the world seems to have found your video and decided to give you free advice. Who needs the algorithm 😂
Great isn't it! Like the one who pointed out I still needed eave tiles. Now installed and I need a storage system for the logs. 👍 There will be a video #2
Hi Charlie, when I made a wood store I used hit and miss on the sides to allow the air to circulate throw and dry the wood out Take care keep up the great work
Thanks. Yes, maybe some little spacers to turn those feather boards into louvres 🤔
Nice construction! I used a couple of old pallets to lift up the bottom row of logs to allow more airflow.
Thanks. Yes I'm so chuffed because I had a big double pallet I hadn't got round to cutting up which will be going below the logs.
Lovely log store! For the flashing I think what you’ve done is perfect
Thanks. Except it needs a row of eave tiles - can't for the life of me figure out why I didn't bother with them. If the flashing was an inch or 25mm wider it wouldn't matter. Anyway now installed but I'll have to redo the flashing in the spring. There will be a second video talking about the log stacking and this point. 👍
Great work. It always amazes me how much you get done in a working day!😂😂😂
excellent job, i find using a pointed shovel helps when digging your hardcore out the dumpy bag.
That looks stunning with the tiled roof
Thanks Scott 👊
Beautiful craftsmanship Charlie
Thanks mate. 👊
@10:00
Agree with the adjustment on the rotating the tenon.
One other point if you put them in the easier way you’ll also minimize cross grain, resulting in a stronger joint.
As far as I can tell they’ve been installed face down instead of edge down.
Brilliant. Definitely inspiration for trying something similar
Thanks. Next week's vid week be a follow up tackling an omission and log storage.
You do amazing stuff! Well done from 🇮🇪!
There is a substitute for guttering; it's louvred strips that spread the drips over a bigger area. This Old House have a video about it done on a shed.
Thanks, I'll check that out. 👍
Regarding the correct naming/joinery terms, the 90° notch you cut out of the rafters are called ‘birdsmouth joints’
Ah, thanks for that 👊
You want a build some sort of grid at the back to hold the logs away from the wall and allow a bit of airflow. And when you stack them don't stack too tightly - there should be enough space around the logs for a mouse to run through. You should be fine leaving the front open. As the logs dry out the grain tightens up and makes them much less prone to absorbing water so any rain tends to be on the outer surface only and dries out quickly when it stops raining.
Thanks mate. Yes, I think a bit of thought needs to go into the storage...
Great job Charlie!
Thanks. Update video coming out next so keep an eye out for that. 👊
I used live edge boards on the side looks really nice
Great video Charlie
Thanks Giles 👊
You made a smashing job of this, well done Sir and thank you for sharing. It looks very nice .
Thank you very much , really appreciate the comment 👊
Excellent job
Everything done to perfection
👊
Great detailed video !
Thanks for sharing
Thanks. Apart from... missing the ridge tiles as someone has already pointed out. I didn't give them much thought as I think I was imagining the lead flashing would provide the requisite overlap. One for the update video...
A great video Charlie, and the log store looks fab. I really like the chunky look you achieved with it and it blends in really well.
Thanks, I appreciate that 👍
Brilliant job mate, it looks great. Watched many of your diy videos for pointers on work I’ve done around the house but only just subscribed. Great channel 👍🏻
Cracking effort Charlie 👍🏻🏴
Thanks Kevin 👊
Another great video Charlie
Thanks buddy 👊
Really slick build 🙌🏼
Great video Charlie, looks like a really satisfying project!
I find the 16g nails work fine for panelling, but need to be fired in at opposing angles to stop pull out, also try to keep the head flush (again to reduce pull out), keep up the good work 👍🏻
Thanks buddy. Very good point. I'm posting an update vid over the next couple of days so keep an eye out for that 👍
Great job on the log storage area Charlie! Thanks for sharing the video with us! and Merry Christmas! ✝🎁🎄And Happy New Year!😎JP
You too. Thanks for the comment 👊
@@CharlieDIYte 😎
Excellent project Charlie, that came out looking great, you certainly challenged yourself and tried some new skills along the way, so really worth it !
If you've got any hanging around it could be worth using some cut down pallets to stack the firewood off the ground. I have some (very) basic curtains on the front of my store made from 1m wide landscaping fabric weighted down with roofing batten screwed through at the bottom. As you say this doesn't look so nice but tbh I only have it up for the worst of the autumn/winter weather when you're not out there looking at it much anyway and having a number that are 1m wide means I can tie one up for regular access leaving the others down. Consider protecting the wall from damp logs too !
Love this. Fascinating to see the different building materials, here in Canada you just don't see lead flashing and ceramic tiles.
Thanks buddy. Humbled you're watching my vids in Canada. Yes we've got different stuff but I'm realising you and pretty much the rest of the world build houses better than we do!
Interesting project presented at a good pace with plenty of information. I'll be trying the floating tenons and I like the post and wall plate detailing.
You may find it helpful to sub-divide in to bays so you can be filling one while emptying the other. I've built a few wood sheds and heat the house with a wood stove and find being able to start restocking before the whole store is empty very helpful. A small kindling shelf is also useful.
Thanks Rob. Yes I'm working on the storage at the moment. I'm putting a pallet base in and a shelf - and a trellis at the back to keep the wood off the garage wall. Haven't decided yet whether to subdivide with a vertical separator although I can see the sense of it. 👊
I'll look forward to seeing the results.
Interesting points. It seems a shame to make such nice structure and then shove a few old pallets at the base. How about breaking up the pallets and just laying two parallel pieces at the base of each layer of firewood? About an inch gives plenty of ventilation space under the stack. Less room for vermin too.
Given there's a roof and good ventilation I wouldn't have though it necessary to batton out the garage wall either. Happy stacking either way.
In a separate topic - I was concerned our wood stove was causing particulates inside the house so bought a particulate meter. Interesting results and the stove is not a concern. Putting the toaster or oven on in the kitches sends it shooting up. Candles dangerously so! May be worth an episode to see what your findings are?
Look out for wasps mate, they love stacked dry timber. Great video
Wonderful work and lots of useful info in comments. I stack logs in layers between light battens tied to pallets and rafters then braced with thin rope every 1.5 metres. I tried to post a photo link but TH-cam blocked it.
A shallower roof angle would make the edge higher, you are going to bang your head when stacking high, just like I do.
Thanks. I saw the photo - ingenious arrangement! Yes the head banging is the biggest design defect 🤦
A super Job Charlie! The 45 degree angle was worth it as it matches the garage roof as you said. Id be happy with this as a porch or an arbor, never mind a log store. on that point, maybe a wisteria or a climbing rose growing up it? most would be frightened of a climber but I think it would really set it off
Thanks David. Yes I might do something similar over the front door. I've already had to make one modification though. For some reason I didn't bother with a ridge tile layer. They're now in but I'll have to redo the head flashing in the spring...
I don't think you'd refer to that as a ridge beam, but more of a ledger.
Great work Charlie. Always impressed by your persistence!!
Thanks buddy. Couldn't work out what it was called 🤦😉
Also, the 90° notch you cut out of the rafters are called ‘birdsmouth joints’
Looks amazing charlie
Thanks Peter 👍
A very professional job indeed
Thanks, except for the immigration of eave tiles. One for the update video 😉
Very pretty but ...
Put trellis on the wall to keep the logs off the masonry and pulling damp through. Put old pallets on the slabs to stop logs drawing up water and help dry from underneath. Finally, get some weed suppressing cloth and hang it on the sides and front and driving rain won't get in at all while the logs dry.
Thanks, all good advice 👊👌
Class build Charlie. Keep the videos coming....
Thanks, will do, and thanks for the comment 👊
Always fun watching your videos Charlie, I can see potential issues but interesting watch.
Thanks Hopefully I'll deal with most of them in video #2. 😉
A tip when using lead sealant! Fill the entire gap with sealant all the way down the length of lead n then start at beginning with a wet finger simply dab the sealant, it will push in and not smear
Thanks Dominic. Makes sense 👌
Excellent video 👏. In my experience, digging stone out of bags is easier with a round head long handle shovel or pointed spade. They get into the stone much easier. I have both but the long handle round head comes in handy for all sorts, especially sifting my compost through my soil sieve and picking up doggy’s contributions..I’m sensitive to that one and being as far away as possible helps 🤢🤣🤦🏻
That's a very good point. I ended up freeing it up with my mattock pick.
Always wondered how the lead was attached to the brickwork. Great vid as per!
Thanks. Yes those clips are great. 👍
great video and cracking end result
Thanks. 👍
Fantastic build.
Thanks Ian 👍
Another good DIY video Charlie, hats off to you the way you put your videos out knowing they are going to be scrutinised, 99.99% of DIYers would be delighted if our log store looked like yours 👌 I recently used 35 bags of that brand of postcrete and found quite a few with set lumps, just wondering if this was a one off with this brand?
Thanks Nigel, really appreciate that. Yes the scrutiny is one of those things - keeps me on my toes - like the guy who posted rightly just before you that I had forgotten the eave tiles. Still don't know why I didn't bother with them but they're in now but I'll have to redo the flashing! On the concrete that's not usual. I did have a big rock in one of my sacks but the sack had a cut in the side. Maybe yours did or moisture got in during the bagging up. Very frustrating for you!
Good Video Charlie.
Thanks 👊
Nice work!
Thanks Lee 👊
@@CharlieDIYtebtw did you do a video that includes the outdoor tap on the wall?
Try doubling up on the very bottom batten to lift up the first course of half tiles. Then the first full tile will sit nicely.
Thanks. Yes I'll do that next time, and also forgot the eave tiles for some reason.
great video and log store looks fab
Thanks 👊
Great video. I intend building a log store at my new house if all things go to plan. And will definitely be copying your design, taking into account the the things you said you might have done differently.
Very smart job!
Thanks 👍
Great job for a diyer. The other end needs boarding just to add shelter. 👍👍👍
Yes I'll probably do that at some point. 👍
As a carpenter myself I can’t help but admire the work you do Charlie, great looking log store and well built. Can I ask what make those work trousers are that you’re wearing?
Thanks Andy, coming from a pro I really appreciate that. You certainly can. They're Ballyclare. Had them for years and love them. The black fleece I often wear is also Ballyclare. Originally both gifted to me but they don't pay me anything for the association.
Nice looking and practical store ! Well done !👍p.s for logs leave a gap with cross wood between slabs and logs to allow air circulating in bottom.
Thanks. Yes a few of you are saying this - very helpful. I think I'm going to have to give some serious thought to the stacking.
Bang tidy Charlie! 👌
Thanks Frank 👊
Excellent video very well explained
Thanks Steve.
Whilst the front will get more splash back on it, it will also get the most air. Stacks can end up leaning forward when they dry faster at the front - specially if stacked really wet/green.
It's a good point, and actually I reckon the splash back will only happen nearer the bottom. I might also install guttering.
Great video. Really like what you’ve done.
Thanks 👊
Only thing I would comment on is possibly using metal brackets for the wooden posts. In some cases this can prevent the wood from rotting from moisture, I know you've used a shrink wrap around the posts before digging them in and it's covered by the roof so chances are it should be ok, but sometimes if the wind blows in rain the moisture can travel from the top of the post into the buried section where it can't dry out easily and causes rot to set in.
Yes that's a fair point. We'll see how we get on with it but I think it'll be a fair few years before I have any problems with it rotting. One thing I did forget was to put in a row of ridge tiles, now added. I'll mention this in the update video👍
Fantastic video!
Thanks 👊
Couple suggestions: Use cut down pallets on the RHS and front or you'll find it is a pain to stack the wood without it tumbling out - wood is not nice and round!
You said the wood you have is pine - not good for wood burning logs - great for getting the fire going but not regular during as the resin will increase the risk of a chimney fire. If you have a corrugated liner this nicely traps the tar from the resin and increases the risk if a chimney fire - a concrete liner is best.
The 45 degrees means you'll end up with more wasted 'roof' space for stacking wood.
You should have had made a platform / work area next to the wood store for splitting / sawing the logs, so less of a walk from cutting to stacking.
I didn't notice a path from the log store to the existing path - or will you be paddling in the mud from the log store to the other pathway?.
A canopy would have been useful so that when you are collecting logs to bring into the house you and the logs don't get wet!.
During a typical winter you can use 4 cu metres of wood, thus you should size your storage capacity to ensure you have space for more than one winters worth especially if it is a hard winter.
A separate area for stacking kindling would be useful.
The gravel at the front might be decorative not but once it is mixed with sawdust will give issues down the line.
Luvley jubbly Charlie 👍
Thanks 👊
that looks like a brilliant job to me - it's so high, presumably you could add some storage in to the "loft" part for other things?
Thanks. Yes I'll try and use that extra storage. 👍
Another excellent video, such good explanations and clear advice and tools required. Having the costings is also very useful. I wonder how long it took you to do and where you find the time especially in the winter when we are short on daylight.
Thanks. It basically took just over a week to build and then another week to do the video 🤦😉
Hi Charlie, please check with your house insurer as my friend had his renewal refused after he declared that he had added a log store to the side wall of his house ( I know yours is on the garage but worth checking) they refused to insure him as they said it was a fire risk.
That's a fair point I hadn't thought of. There's always something isn't there!! As you say, should be ok as it's a garage away from the house but if we ever convert it... I'll check.
@@CharlieDIYte Great build by the way 👍😃
Fire risk 🤣 gotta love insurance. I have 1000 litres of kerosene outside and they're fine with that.
@@DukeofDave your tank will be fire rated for about 60minutes, dry logs not so much haha
@@jakejohnson_ it definitely isn't. And the logs would need a substantial fire to get them alight.
If you put a heat source in between the oil tank and a log store the kerosene would be blazing log before the logs.
Top job👍
Thanks 👊
Looks great
Thanks 👍
Great video,,,,,,,,,,,,,thank you !!!!
Thanks Michael. Appreciate the comment 👊
Lovely looking log store Charlie. The pitch is too steep though as it becomes a nuisance as you pile the logs up higher but I can see why you did it like that. 😊
Thanks. I agree it is a bit steep.
Great work
Thanks 👊
Excellent video and great project, looks amazing! I particularly liked the detail on the lead flashing as that's something I've struggled with in the past, using flash band which is nightmare stuff to with with. If that was a rendered block wall with no convenient grout line to follow, how would you tackle it? Snap a chalk line and cut to it the same manner I suppose?
Thanks. Yes that is how I'd do it. There will be an update video on the log storage as I've had a lot of brilliant suggestions on this, plus I did have to modify the roof the other day because I didn't put any ridge tiles in for some reason. 🤦😉
Looks great, another very well documented project with some great craftsmanship
Thanks Ollie 👊
Nice job.
Thanks 👍
I don’t think a bit of rain hitting the end of the logs will do any harm. Drying logs isn’t about the water content, it’s about drying them of their sap to keep your flu clean of creosote.
The posts will rot at ground level over time so could probably do with some sort of protection.
I'm planning to treat the posts but I'll leave it a few months until the tanelised coating has lost some of its effect. It's very unlikely any of them will rot though as they're under cover.
Nice trick that 👌👍
@@Bob.Jenkins Txs, great tip 👍. I’ve an old Land Rover and always have waste engine oil around. Does that method work on the chassis too? 🤣
The bitumen paint should had been a couple if inches above finished ground level.
@@grantcook5376 exactly, it’s the only point that really needs it. If you’ve ever had a rotten post and dug it out, you’ll find that what’s under ground in the wet earth doesn’t rot, what’s above the ground in the air doesn’t rot either, it’s just the couple of inches where the post meets the ground level
Great video Charlie. I used a platform of besser blocks to allow ventilation, reduce termite infestation and reduce rot/damp. I have the sides open and put a tarp down the front during winter. This allows ventilation and reduces rain ingress. Cafe blinds would be a step up if it is in a presentation area, mine is in a utility area so a tarp will do.
Thanks, yes from what you're all saying, I do need to give some thought to how to arrange the wood, rather than just chucking it in there. Will see if I need the tarp or not but at least I have the option. A green one works look quite smart 😉
Hi Charlie. I’m lucky to have a brick outbuilding about the size of a small garage, which is full too the gunnels with fire wood . Even after a couple of years storage , I still find I need to have the logs inside for a couple of days before I use them just to give them a final airing . Do you do a similar thing ? Grate project and will help others to decide how to go about a similar installation. Best wishes and kind regards as always 😀👍👍👍
Hi, good to hear from you - you too! I know what your mean. There will still be a bit of moisture in there. Do you open the store up on nice days to give it a bit of an airing? 👊
@@CharlieDIYte high Charlie I must confess I don’t , but being what we believe to have been an old pigsty it’s definitely no air tight . But having said that we did replace the roof earlier in the year with a new tile roof , so maybe you have a valid point . As a matter of interest I did invest in a heavy duty wood splitter some years ago, now that was a game changer as they say. Best wishes and kind regards as always 😀👍👍👍
Did the rear vertical posts need to go all the way down into the ground? Or would it have been strong enough to rely on fixings into the bricks and have floating vertical posts?
I suppose so, with enough concrete screws particularly given the support from the "ridge" beam. Or just have it sitting on a plate.
@Charlie DIYte thank you. Just weighing up how to do something similar, but with a lighter roof than tile so considering how much support to go with
That shovel wasn’t ideal to unload that bulk bag.I felt your pain 😆
Great project!! Can I ask how high is the eaves? Thanks
Beautiful ❤️
Thanks 👊
Hi Charlie if your view count goes up on this video it's me 😂 I'm trying to build my old log store scaled down version and I'm getting some great tips on setting the roof tiles out. I'd be properly stumped without your explanation 👍
Aw, thanks Melanie. Just remember those eave tiles at the top - which I forgot first time trying for some reason.. th-cam.com/video/2pM8Uo8C0yo/w-d-xo.htmlsi=9TZAYQltG1VvEsDb
The log store looks good. A job well done (as usual).
I’m not to sure about the logs. You can dry them out as much as you like. They will not be great for burning.
Even if they were free, it’s not worth it.
They're actually ok. Yes not as good as say ash or oak but well seasoned they burn with a good heat. Just need to make sure to get the temperature of the log burner right to prevent creosoting of the chimney.
Well done
Thanks 👍
Very interesting, but what about solar panels on the roof surface
Ah, yes that would be good! Add them to my existing array.
Great video. Can't believe you didn't show us it full of logs?!?!
That's video #2 I had a sneaking suspicion it wasn't as easy as just lobbing in the logs and I've had so many helpful suggestions as to how best to stack the wood. Also I wanted to talk about log splitting. 👍