As a sailor who has been around boats for many years, my overriding advice is don’t use any silicone sealant. It doesn’t work long term. Butyl tape is very easy to use, no mess like silicone. Can also get in tubes but for sealing the Windows bedding them on butyl tape will work far better. The issue is cleaning the old silicone or mastic off but you can get remover in diy stores. After that clean so with acetone then apply the butyl tape and tighten the fittings down. Any excess butyl can be cut away and kept to use again. White spirit cleans any butyl from surrounding areas. That cable box would be a perfect place to use butyl but again all silicone needs removing which isn’t easy. Other alternatives are Sikaflex 291i or even CT1 which you can get from Screwfix or Toolstation. Happy to give any advice I can so feel to let me know. Andy UK
@@wellbeingonwater As someone who used to be in quality control of sunroof manufacturing... I concur with what the Sailor said. Silicone never works, butyl can.
On the gaps in the doors, you may look to using car door rubber seal with adhesive on one side of it. They come in a lot of variations and shapes. I think a lot of automotive items and sealants could work on your boat. I love your enthusiasm on fixing all the things yourself. You go girl…. Girl power!!
For the holes on the roof you will need cable grommets, you can get these from car accessory shops, window you will need to reseal with proper window sealant that means taking the window out and sealing on the 90 degree corner and around the screws, your hatch could do with a rubber seal on them to create a seal
With the battery terminals. It is best to cover them in grease when you put them back together. This stops the corrosion caused by the battery gases. I know it says its a sealed battery, but not really. Its a simple, cheap fix that prevents problems in the future.
Hi May Just stopping by to have a cuppa and see how you are holding up as weather is getting cooler / colder. The best thing you did for the battery was to place some insulation between the hull and battery. If you require extra sockets for your socket set check out your local B&Q or auto shops. Remeber that there will be metric and imperial sockets. Mark 😀
Great Vlog again May and in the face of adversity you keep smiling ( on camera ) and show amazing determination and adaptability. You are a resilient young person. Well done Keep moving on up
A man in the village makes banna bread and it's really nice it tastes more like cake but you can't get enough of it. I hope you get your boat repaired for winter have a great week
I have never tried cooking with an Aga. However, back in the 1960s my friend's mother cooked for a family of 6 using a coke fired Aga. Her cooking and baking was amazing. She knew how to bake slowly with a moderate heat or fast with a hot oven. Likewise on the top, which hotplate was the hottest for frying etc, and which was not so hot for simmering. I don't know all the details of how she did it, but I do know the results were delicious!
Wish I could be there to help you with all the leaks. Hang in there May. My thoughts are with you and I’m sending you the energy you need to get through this. Cheers!
In fortunately you cannot avoid condensation with the aluminium single glazed windows however some ideas…you could use a compriband foam tape between the wood finish and the window frame to help reduce condensation being in contact with the wood. Do you make and store enough power to run an efficient dehumidifier? You can regulate them to provide the correct/healthy level of moisture in the air and remove all excess
The best advice ill give you is only use the best marine selastic , sica flex , it comes in all grades for every job , second dont short cut the preparation , make sure if using full thread screws fill the thread inside the item being bolted /fastened with sealer , if you need a good seal but need to remove later use buttal mastic ,
For that wires, go to a electrical shop and ask for watertight cable compression gland fittings.Tiny bit of silicon where the fitting go through the deck. Not sure where the water come in on the windows. But rivets can be a issue as they will not always pull the two materials tight together. Other solution is to get tectile and fill all gaps with it.
Hi may I lived on a 60 ft narrow boat for 2 yrs & I remember the highs are Hugh and the lows can just make you site down and cry. Just take one day at a time 😵💫😳😆. Surrounding your self with helpful competent boater is a must. I always had a locker full of beer/vodka cos boaters will do anything for a drink Your a very good watch keep it going 👍
Oh Thank God! Search for the book is over! 11:30. Looks like thewhitey321 beat me to it. Flash from the low point up btw, your hatch flashing scoops water in as it travels downhill. Loose tape will pull water in as well through capillary action.
Howdy May, do you have vents to outside on your boat? making sure they are open and clear will help with the damp. So a quick fix for the window would be sikaflex 221, it seals pretty much anything to anything. use a filling knife to push it into the joints and a damp cloth or a baby wipe to smooth it off. It would also seal the wifi holes, although I'd recommend gromets for that as well. As for the hatch, I think if you just try to divert the water away you'll still have a problem with it as the rain hits the side of the boat and weeps in. You can get self adhesive sealing strips in a roll like tape, stick it to the door, rough up the paint with a bit of sandpaper so it sticks.
Been thinking about your interior condensation problem. First, do check that your roof vents are open and not covered or impeded. If that is good then keep the interior warm day and night and try running a fan to keep the air moving inside. Condensation is where a cold surface meets a warm surface and there is little or no movement of air. Think of your car windshield in winter when you don't have your cabin fan running. Mark
An old school quick fix used to be placing clear bubble wrap over the inside of the windows and frames for winter insulation, still allowing light to enter the boat. Nothing wrong with using expanding foam to insulate the difficult to get to areas, keep in mind a little bit of expanding foam goes a long way!!! If it expands too much and goes a bit mad, do not panic, you can trim back after it has set hard. Great work on the battery btw.....that battery should have either a vented top cover or make sure your battery terminals are covered (BSS requirement) and be careful using metal tape measures around battery's!!!! Doing really well getting ready for winter👍 Oh and your hatch needs a small diverter to guide the water coming off the roof away from the hatch joins, just where the roof meets the cabin sides. I am still doing the yoga, nobody told me I would ache the next morning.....😂
Whatever you do involving the battery. Please disconnect the negative first then the positive. Then. When reconnecting connect the positive first then the negative. It helps prevent what can be a very nasty accident.
Two suggestions for your leak. One is to look for a product commonly call liquid rubber which you can ask at a hardware store specialising in marine fixes. It is a two part product ( depending on the brand) that turns into rubber and has a water repelling ingredient. Failing that, if you want a quick and easy fix, consider polyester car bondo. It is used on car bodies and starts off as a paste which hardens into a hard shell.
So I bought a boat last year. My previous boat would leak at all the windows with condensation- when I purchased my new boat it came with double glazed heavy plastic home made pieces that sit snugly inside the windows (inside) they have a piece of foam all around the inside edge. I almost threw them away - I’m sooooo glad I didn’t. My second winter- and they are back in place. No condensation EVER - no leaking windows and I’ve even put little handles on them all so I pull out easily when necessary- so a little tip for anyone with condensation problems on their windows in winter
I’ve used a light smear of waterproof grease on minor window and hatch leaks in my boat. Vaseline might be a suitable alternative, but it is known to rot some kinds of rubber, so … caution! Others have suggested cable glands where they pass through the roof. I agree that cable glands can solve such issues. But ideally, when planning next summer’s upkeep, try to route cables a different way, so that you can seal the holes in the roof altogether. The best sealant for boat jobs above the waterline is UniBond Anti-Mould Translucent, Waterproof Mould Protection Kitchen & Bathroom Sealant. Be careful where you use it though, because silicone is really hard to get rid of, so you don’t want it in the way of a future paint job for example. But on the other hand, it really works! AGA cooking is THE BEST, but that air fryer is a revelation … it won’t act as a central heater to keep you warm though!! Thanks for sharing your days. 🎉
Thinking about the water penetration problems, I'm surprised there are no gutters around the roof. Like there are on cars, for example, to guide the water away from windows and discharge somewhere else. With the hatches, surely metal guides could steer the water away from the openings/joins to spill elsewhere. The guides could each be metal ridges welded or epoxied to the surface of the roof to, again deflect the water elsewhere.
Hello may mick from Hull really enjoyed this episode hope you are well and I think you are doing a very good job to I will look forward to your next episode xx 😊😊
You could try a film secondary glazing that stick to the window frame, then shrinks tight with a hair drier, it will greatly reduce r stop condensation it can also help retain the heat and its easy to peel off in the summer although apparently it helps to geep some of the heat out in the summer so I’m Told. PPS my windows are so wet i hear it raining inside during the night, i wish i had a log burner as its a dry heat and greatly reduces condensation, I’m existing with only my Webasto boiler going 8 hours a day lol😅
Ooo that made me nervous you putting that insulation round the battery , so easy to touch the battery terminals with that stuff as it’s foil faced BOOM 💥
Once that leaky window is out, you’ve gotta make sure the surrounding steel is totally flat & smooth. If it’s even slightly uneven, you’ll never get the window frame to seal flush. Secondly, do you windows have drain channels in them ? If they have they need to be clean & dirt free so rain runs down & away.
Your windows need a sill mounted above them all. Some pressed metal such as aluminium. Say 75 X 75mm right angle folded which extend 150mm either side of the openings. So long as your paint around the window frames is sound you can sikaflex (silicone) the sills onto and above the windows. You can hold them in place while they cure with some strong magnets. This will prevent you from drilling, screwing or riveting them to the superstructure...
There's no such thing as a temporary fix - there are just fixes and failures, and it's a fix until it fails 😁 Couple of ideas: Please consider getting a squirty foam gun. Good ones, which you can disassemble to clean, cost £30+ but will pay for itself in the long term as you'll get at least twice as much useable foam from a can. They are completely controllable and don't leave you re-enacting scenes from Ghostbusters. You can accurately squirt foam beads from 2mm in diameter upwards and with a little practice make little mess and produce properly expanded foam which is a better insulator. Once you have one, you'll never look back and will find even more uses for squirty foam. As for your condensation problem, there are no easy solutions apart from heat, ventilation and dehumidification, and you don't have the solar electricity budget for the latter. Stopping breathing is also a solution, but not one which I would recommend😁 Secondary glazing is not very effective and will probably never repay the investment and will produce condensation between the layers as you live in a naturally humid environment. The only real solution is to hold out and bite the bullet and replace the windows with modern double glazing with extruded, hollow frames which won't be as cold to cause as much condensation. Even then, you will still get some condensation as the air inside your boat will be quite humid without ventilation. A possible help might be self-adhesive foam strip for the exposed aluminium. I have used self-adhesive EPDM foam strip from Rubber and Sponge for water seals for flood doors which would also work as insulation. I recently bought 10m of 20mm wide by 10mm thick for £14 with free delivery. They do it in every width and thickness combination imaginable. It is closed cell so won't soak up the water so shouldn't go mouldy and start stinking.
Double paned windows will eliminate the condensation. More expensive yes, but sometimes the cost is necessary. Plus with double paned windows the frames/sills are typically wider so you can spray foam them in place to eliminate any leaking. You should look into RV (AKA caravan) windows As for the hatches, ask your welder friend to fill any cracks/voids/low spots with weld to help shed the water, at the very least he might have an idea to help fix your problem. I know you like to DYI the problems but sometimes you just need to ask for help. Cheers.
HI at 13:05 i noticed the tape you have used on the side is overlapped wrong water could run in there have the overlap the other way if you have a join in the tape so water will run over it
Hi Have you considered that your leak may be coming from somewhere in the roof and travelling to the window. If you haven’t already I recommend some grommets for the cables you just treated in the beginning of the video. Love your channel as I might buy a boat to live on when my house sells of a static home 😬
Hi May. You need some kind of barrier where the edge of the hatch is which diverts the water to the side away from the hatch. Maybe your friend George could weld you a small piece of metal? I wouldn't use expanding foam around the frames as like ypu say it's very messy and you will never be able to get it off again, better to use foam board. You never said if the banana bread tasted good?
Thanks for the ideas. I recently finished the one I started with expanding foam and it was hilariously bad. Going to try the other insulation on a different one and see which is best. Thanks for the ideas
On the hatch where you think the water is running, I’d use bluetac to build a little dam to push water away along the roof, just as a temporary measure to see what works. If it does work then you can make it more permanent with mastic or similar. If not, then the bluetac is easy to remove
Most boats have window leaks in my experience. A really good product that will at least temporarily solve the problem is Burgess Hydrosol (much, much better than Captain Tolleys). Will happily go on to a moist joint and work in by capiliary action. Probably needs several applications (watch out for rune and wipe them up) but is great stuff for window leaks.
Nay, on your sealing tape/flashing overlap from the top down, which will mean that water will flow over the joint and not try and go underneath the joint. Hope this helps
expanding foam is good but less is more as I found out when I used it to gap fill a window it expanded so much I couldn't close the window so on your boat it may push open the joints
Hi May, You have a sunny appearance. But things don't always go well when you live on the water. A boat always needs attention. A delicious mug of tea makes your day. However, you have to be careful with the insulation on the battery, the outside is aluminum and is a conductor.
I don't know if they have this stuff in the UK, but you might check a couple of hardware stores, or big box stores if they have those there...(Lowe's, Home depot types) but there's a sealant called flex sealant, flex tape, flex repair, etc....supposed to stop leaks...advertised constantly in the U.S..
@@wellbeingonwater there's stuff called flex putty, which seals leaks, flex tape, also seals leaks, flex caulk..just a thought...they show building a speed boat from a screen door, then putting this flex seal all over it...and taking it out on the water...it doesn't sink!! thought it might help you out...not that expensive either...
Here in the States, we use a product called "Great Stuff." It's just a simple foam spray that can seal up those leaks. Not sure if available in the UK?
@@wellbeingonwater I would strongly recommend doing that, your insulation does not keep the Battery warm because there is nothing there to produce heat. The best thing would be to have the Battery inside your boat, they really don't like beeing used when cold and discharged. Or you could invest in an RV battery, "battlebornbatteries" have a heating inside so they keep themself alive in the cold, but that would be overkill in your case since you already have a warm place to put them.
Are you sure your windows are leaking or is it condensation on the inside of the single glazing? There can be a lot of moisture if it is cold outside and warm inside.
With the front part of the insulation for your battery I wonder if cutting out only the area that is to thick for the metal frame and keeping the bulk of the insulation over the front of the battery would give it more protection from the cold?
may buy a waterproof box seal it to roof with sicoflex. Run your internet cable through the box which has sealed glands on it. This is my set up. No leaks
You need to use a roofing mastic to temporarily fill that gap where water is running down near your hatches… take your old window out and reseal it back in with mastic, and mastic around the outside of it. Until you do a proper fix…
Shout out to the vanlife people as well, they all fit windows, and vans leak more than boats due to the vibration of driving. You will get plenty of tips and information from there.
Hi May. Damn, that banana bread looks soooo goood!!! 😅 I am now gonna find some in my locale today! Meanwhile, at the far end of the not so good scale, I’ve also got a couple of leaks at my rear car doors, water is the most determined thing ever invented, more determined even, than me and my banana bread quest 😄 I hope you get it sorted.
If you pass shops like aldi, lidl, ect, pop in and see if they have socket sets, a cheap one should be fine, and you never know if they have other things to fix jobs on the boat?
Hiya mate great vlog as usual love the battery sleeping bag 😊....those low energy days can be crippling stay positive everything is fixable ....what are your thoughts on C&RT forthcoming price increases 🤔 I must say I love that engine room it's a tinkers paradise lol
On a totally unrelated topic you said in an earlier video that your boat was named dorf. Did you know that dorf is the German word for village? My little bit of trivia for the night.
For your hatch cover, do the bottom "poppers" first, then work your way up... wrestling with the top ones (instead of the bottom ones) should be much easier
That side hatch is a bad design in my opinion. I would weld u section steel down the side openings and a flat steel bar sloping outwards to take the rain out of the boat lived on a boat a while and there’s always something to fix. Get a window vac for the condensation on windows.
I'm fixing a hole where the rain gets in And stops my mind from wandering Where it will go I'm filling the cracks that ran through the door And kept my mind from wandering Where it will go. - The Beatles. Ok thet was meant to be a joke, but I think a combination of expanding foam and insulation blocks would be a idea for the windows as for hatch metal trim strips or somthing like brush seal (a small aluminium strip which has bristles like a toothbrush on it) on the inside. There also a rubber thing that look like a car wiper blades (but I can't remember what they're called. Sorry) But like you said future may will have a solution at some point. And well done on the banana bread
I've got perspex secondary glazing come off in the summer held in place by magnetic strip in the winter
Oooo send me photos
As a sailor who has been around boats for many years, my overriding advice is don’t use any silicone sealant. It doesn’t work long term. Butyl tape is very easy to use, no mess like silicone. Can also get in tubes but for sealing the Windows bedding them on butyl tape will work far better. The issue is cleaning the old silicone or mastic off but you can get remover in diy stores. After that clean so with acetone then apply the butyl tape and tighten the fittings down. Any excess butyl can be cut away and kept to use again. White spirit cleans any butyl from surrounding areas. That cable box would be a perfect place to use butyl but again all silicone needs removing which isn’t easy. Other alternatives are Sikaflex 291i or even CT1 which you can get from Screwfix or Toolstation. Happy to give any advice I can so feel to let me know. Andy UK
Thanks for your advice!
@@wellbeingonwater As someone who used to be in quality control of sunroof manufacturing... I concur with what the Sailor said. Silicone never works, butyl can.
On the gaps in the doors, you may look to using car door rubber seal with adhesive on one side of it. They come in a lot of variations and shapes. I think a lot of automotive items and sealants could work on your boat. I love your enthusiasm on fixing all the things yourself. You go girl…. Girl power!!
For the holes on the roof you will need cable grommets, you can get these from car accessory shops, window you will need to reseal with proper window sealant that means taking the window out and sealing on the 90 degree corner and around the screws, your hatch could do with a rubber seal on them to create a seal
Love the word gromit! Thanks for this
I think the hatch could benefit from a rubber seal. Love it when you concoct something 💚
It has one!
@@wellbeingonwater Bigger one?
It needs a thick sealing rubber that the top shuts on and squashes to form a seal like the rubber around a car door
With the battery terminals. It is best to cover them in grease when you put them back together. This stops the corrosion caused by the battery gases. I know it says its a sealed battery, but not really. Its a simple, cheap fix that prevents problems in the future.
Thanks! Great tip
Hi May
Just stopping by to have a cuppa and see how you are holding up as weather is getting cooler / colder.
The best thing you did for the battery was to place some insulation between the hull and battery.
If you require extra sockets for your socket set check out your local B&Q or auto shops. Remeber that there will be metric and imperial sockets.
Mark 😀
Good luck with solving leaks! Leaks are the worst! Put this towards some Unibond sealant. Roy
Thanks Roy you legend
Great Vlog again May and in the face of adversity you keep smiling ( on camera ) and show amazing determination and adaptability. You are a resilient young person. Well done Keep moving on up
Thanks so much! 😊
Yes, true! Boat jobs will never end. That's the life we choose! Great episode! 👍🤙⛵
Thanks! Indeed we do
A man in the village makes banna bread and it's really nice it tastes more like cake but you can't get enough of it. I hope you get your boat repaired for winter have a great week
Siesta time always a winner.
I have never tried cooking with an Aga. However, back in the 1960s my friend's mother cooked for a family of 6 using a coke fired Aga. Her cooking and baking was amazing. She knew how to bake slowly with a moderate heat or fast with a hot oven. Likewise on the top, which hotplate was the hottest for frying etc, and which was not so hot for simmering. I don't know all the details of how she did it, but I do know the results were delicious!
Love it! Thanks for sharing
4:45 yes, a cup of tea always great 👍
Oooooooh yus
Wish I could be there to help you with all the leaks. Hang in there May. My thoughts are with you and I’m sending you the energy you need to get through this. Cheers!
Thanks lovely Heidi
In fortunately you cannot avoid condensation with the aluminium single glazed windows however some ideas…you could use a compriband foam tape between the wood finish and the window frame to help reduce condensation being in contact with the wood. Do you make and store enough power to run an efficient dehumidifier? You can regulate them to provide the correct/healthy level of moisture in the air and remove all excess
My dad’s a retired boat builder and I used to have a Westerley Centaur 26, which I refurbished and miss dearly. Where I can help and advise I will.
Dehumidifier is a good shout. I'll check out compribrand
🙏
The best advice ill give you is only use the best marine selastic , sica flex , it comes in all grades for every job , second dont short cut the preparation , make sure if using full thread screws fill the thread inside the item being bolted /fastened with sealer , if you need a good seal but need to remove later use buttal mastic ,
For that wires, go to a electrical shop and ask for watertight cable compression gland fittings.Tiny bit of silicon where the fitting go through the deck. Not sure where the water come in on the windows. But rivets can be a issue as they will not always pull the two materials tight together. Other solution is to get tectile and fill all gaps with it.
The rain is compulsory when you start a job outside . Having built a model canal trying to keep water in for a quick fix l use silicone sealant .
Hi may I lived on a 60 ft narrow boat for 2 yrs & I remember the highs are Hugh and the lows can just make you site down and cry. Just take one day at a time 😵💫😳😆. Surrounding your self with helpful competent boater is a must. I always had a locker full of beer/vodka cos boaters will do anything for a drink Your a very good watch keep it going 👍
Aww this made me smile thanks Ian
No advice, just kudos to you for not giving up. ❤️
Thank you so much!
11:15 mins into the video your special ‘Book’ comes into view . Bread looks very nice 😊
You said it first!!! If you want me to send it to you, email me your address 😊🥳
Oh Thank God! Search for the book is over! 11:30. Looks like thewhitey321 beat me to it. Flash from the low point up btw, your hatch flashing scoops water in as it travels downhill. Loose tape will pull water in as well through capillary action.
Hahaha this made me laugh out loud
MacGyver fixes are the best!
Howdy May, do you have vents to outside on your boat? making sure they are open and clear will help with the damp. So a quick fix for the window would be sikaflex 221, it seals pretty much anything to anything. use a filling knife to push it into the joints and a damp cloth or a baby wipe to smooth it off. It would also seal the wifi holes, although I'd recommend gromets for that as well.
As for the hatch, I think if you just try to divert the water away you'll still have a problem with it as the rain hits the side of the boat and weeps in. You can get self adhesive sealing strips in a roll like tape, stick it to the door, rough up the paint with a bit of sandpaper so it sticks.
Hmm yes good point. Its so weird sometimes it leaks sometimes it doesn't. I reckon there's something crying in the holes
When putting temporary tape on start from the bottom so the one above overlaps the one below like roof tiles.
Good tip
Been thinking about your interior condensation problem. First, do check that your roof vents are open and not covered or impeded. If that is good then keep the interior warm day and night and try running a fan to keep the air moving inside. Condensation is where a cold surface meets a warm surface and there is little or no movement of air. Think of your car windshield in winter when you don't have your cabin fan running.
Mark
An important boat life pro-tip, Sikaflex 291 is your best friend. This is the sealant you should be using for all your general 'seal it up' needs.
Cool! I'll look into it
An old school quick fix used to be placing clear bubble wrap over the inside of the windows and frames for winter insulation, still allowing light to enter the boat. Nothing wrong with using expanding foam to insulate the difficult to get to areas, keep in mind a little bit of expanding foam goes a long way!!! If it expands too much and goes a bit mad, do not panic, you can trim back after it has set hard. Great work on the battery btw.....that battery should have either a vented top cover or make sure your battery terminals are covered (BSS requirement) and be careful using metal tape measures around battery's!!!! Doing really well getting ready for winter👍
Oh and your hatch needs a small diverter to guide the water coming off the roof away from the hatch joins, just where the roof meets the cabin sides. I am still doing the yoga, nobody told me I would ache the next morning.....😂
Ache is good! Pain is not! Thanks for all this info, really helpful and positive too@
Whatever you do involving the battery. Please disconnect the negative first then the positive. Then. When reconnecting connect the positive first then the negative. It helps prevent what can be a very nasty accident.
All battery's were off before removing things
Two suggestions for your leak. One is to look for a product commonly call liquid rubber which you can ask at a hardware store specialising in marine fixes. It is a two part product ( depending on the brand) that turns into rubber and has a water repelling ingredient. Failing that, if you want a quick and easy fix, consider polyester car bondo. It is used on car bodies and starts off as a paste which hardens into a hard shell.
Thanks for your suggestion
So I bought a boat last year. My previous boat would leak at all the windows with condensation- when I purchased my new boat it came with double glazed heavy plastic home made pieces that sit snugly inside the windows (inside) they have a piece of foam all around the inside edge. I almost threw them away - I’m sooooo glad I didn’t. My second winter- and they are back in place. No condensation EVER - no leaking windows and I’ve even put little handles on them all so I pull out easily when necessary- so a little tip for anyone with condensation problems on their windows in winter
Interesting! Could you please send me more details, where to buy, pics? 🙏 wellbeingonwater@gmail.com
I’ve used a light smear of waterproof grease on minor window and hatch leaks in my boat. Vaseline might be a suitable alternative, but it is known to rot some kinds of rubber, so … caution! Others have suggested cable glands where they pass through the roof. I agree that cable glands can solve such issues. But ideally, when planning next summer’s upkeep, try to route cables a different way, so that you can seal the holes in the roof altogether.
The best sealant for boat jobs above the waterline is UniBond Anti-Mould Translucent, Waterproof Mould Protection Kitchen & Bathroom Sealant. Be careful where you use it though, because silicone is really hard to get rid of, so you don’t want it in the way of a future paint job for example. But on the other hand, it really works!
AGA cooking is THE BEST, but that air fryer is a revelation … it won’t act as a central heater to keep you warm though!!
Thanks for sharing your days. 🎉
Thanks for all this great advice!
Thinking about the water penetration problems, I'm surprised there are no gutters around the roof. Like there are on cars, for example, to guide the water away from windows and discharge somewhere else.
With the hatches, surely metal guides could steer the water away from the openings/joins to spill elsewhere. The guides could each be metal ridges welded or epoxied to the surface of the roof to, again deflect the water elsewhere.
I think I'm going to have to weld some on!
I wrongly assumed air fryers would pull too much energy to be used on a boat! That bread looked 😍 x
Twas fab! Engine needs to be on!
You have a great character and sense of humor.
Really enjoyed your video and am now a subscriber
Welcome aboard! Great to have you here!
Thank you for the nice video! So much singing! It`s a wonderful!
You're welcome!
Hello may mick from Hull really enjoyed this episode hope you are well and I think you are doing a very good job to I will look forward to your next episode xx 😊😊
Glad you enjoyed it thanks for being here!
You could try a film secondary glazing that stick to the window frame, then shrinks tight with a hair drier, it will greatly reduce r stop condensation it can also help retain the heat and its easy to peel off in the summer although apparently it helps to geep some of the heat out in the summer so I’m Told. PPS my windows are so wet i hear it raining inside during the night, i wish i had a log burner as its a dry heat and greatly reduces condensation, I’m existing with only my Webasto boiler going 8 hours a day lol😅
Ooo that made me nervous you putting that insulation round the battery , so easy to touch the battery terminals with that stuff as it’s foil faced BOOM 💥
I turned the power off !
@@wellbeingonwater makes no difference, it’s the battery terminals .. if they connect your in big trouble
Once that leaky window is out, you’ve gotta make sure the surrounding steel is totally flat & smooth. If it’s even slightly uneven, you’ll never get the window frame to seal flush.
Secondly, do you windows have drain channels in them ? If they have they need to be clean & dirt free so rain runs down & away.
Thanks for the tips Mark!
Your windows need a sill mounted above them all. Some pressed metal such as aluminium. Say 75 X 75mm right angle folded which extend 150mm either side of the openings. So long as your paint around the window frames is sound you can sikaflex (silicone) the sills onto and above the windows. You can hold them in place while they cure with some strong magnets. This will prevent you from drilling, screwing or riveting them to the superstructure...
Loved this as always. You know sometimes not having energy is natural.. I did send you a coffee, just felt you deserved it x
Yeah totally!
And thank you 🙏😊
There's no such thing as a temporary fix - there are just fixes and failures, and it's a fix until it fails 😁
Couple of ideas: Please consider getting a squirty foam gun. Good ones, which you can disassemble to clean, cost £30+ but will pay for itself in the long term as you'll get at least twice as much useable foam from a can. They are completely controllable and don't leave you re-enacting scenes from Ghostbusters. You can accurately squirt foam beads from 2mm in diameter upwards and with a little practice make little mess and produce properly expanded foam which is a better insulator. Once you have one, you'll never look back and will find even more uses for squirty foam.
As for your condensation problem, there are no easy solutions apart from heat, ventilation and dehumidification, and you don't have the solar electricity budget for the latter. Stopping breathing is also a solution, but not one which I would recommend😁
Secondary glazing is not very effective and will probably never repay the investment and will produce condensation between the layers as you live in a naturally humid environment. The only real solution is to hold out and bite the bullet and replace the windows with modern double glazing with extruded, hollow frames which won't be as cold to cause as much condensation. Even then, you will still get some condensation as the air inside your boat will be quite humid without ventilation. A possible help might be self-adhesive foam strip for the exposed aluminium. I have used self-adhesive EPDM foam strip from Rubber and Sponge for water seals for flood doors which would also work as insulation. I recently bought 10m of 20mm wide by 10mm thick for £14 with free delivery. They do it in every width and thickness combination imaginable. It is closed cell so won't soak up the water so shouldn't go mouldy and start stinking.
Foam will just keep expanding when it gets moist…
Love this, thanks so much
And for the advice 🙏
For the hatch at the top lead flashing and a silicone bead
Double paned windows will eliminate the condensation. More expensive yes, but sometimes the cost is necessary. Plus with double paned windows the frames/sills are typically wider so you can spray foam them in place to eliminate any leaking. You should look into RV (AKA caravan) windows As for the hatches, ask your welder friend to fill any cracks/voids/low spots with weld to help shed the water, at the very least he might have an idea to help fix your problem. I know you like to DYI the problems but sometimes you just need to ask for help. Cheers.
Yes always the best option
HI at 13:05 i noticed the tape you have used on the side is overlapped wrong water could run in there have the overlap the other way if you have a join in the tape so water will run over it
Thanks, many people have said this, now I know!
Expanding foam will do a hole fixer to stop leaks and can be sanded down after
It's a crazy product
@@wellbeingonwater that it is so fragile yet resourceful n so many uses
Hi
Have you considered that your leak may be coming from somewhere in the roof and travelling to the window. If you haven’t already I recommend some grommets for the cables you just treated in the beginning of the video. Love your channel as I might buy a boat to live on when my house sells of a static home 😬
Hi May. You need some kind of barrier where the edge of the hatch is which diverts the water to the side away from the hatch. Maybe your friend George could weld you a small piece of metal? I wouldn't use expanding foam around the frames as like ypu say it's very messy and you will never be able to get it off again, better to use foam board. You never said if the banana bread tasted good?
Thanks for the ideas. I recently finished the one I started with expanding foam and it was hilariously bad. Going to try the other insulation on a different one and see which is best. Thanks for the ideas
On the hatch where you think the water is running, I’d use bluetac to build a little dam to push water away along the roof, just as a temporary measure to see what works. If it does work then you can make it more permanent with mastic or similar. If not, then the bluetac is easy to remove
Tried that.. didn't really work because the hatch lid couldn't shut
Wow may , I really enjoy your videos. Keep up the good work
Thanks, will do!
Hi May excellent video, can we get the recipe for the banana bread please, it looked delicious
I googled "sourdough banana bread" first one to come up 😁
very beautiful ;;
a lot of work on the boat..
a hug Brazil
Thanks!
Most boats have window leaks in my experience. A really good product that will at least temporarily solve the problem is Burgess Hydrosol (much, much better than Captain Tolleys). Will happily go on to a moist joint and work in by capiliary action. Probably needs several applications (watch out for rune and wipe them up) but is great stuff for window leaks.
Thanks so much for your advice
Nice vlogs may nice too see travel by narrow boat go bye
Thanks!
Another great video May, when can I come for a coffee and bread looked so nice 👍. Beautiful area you are in . Take care
I'm glad you enjoyed it! Maybe if I started a floating cafe? That would be an adventure!
@@wellbeingonwater if you do think you will do well 👍 be round for coffee and cake like many more people
😊😊Your Banana Bread looked very lovely😊😊
It was!
When I took my windows out I used mastic tape and then re pop riveted the window back in and they never leaked again 😊
Did that too! It's just one that didn't work. Quick fix when I have the time!
Your hair looks really nice and soft may. What do you use to make it smooth? Always a plasure to be watching one if your videos. 😊
Its never ending! Still beats any other life though 🤷♂️😊
Totally!
Nay, on your sealing tape/flashing overlap from the top down, which will mean that water will flow over the joint and not try and go underneath the joint. Hope this helps
May, not Nay!
Thanks Ian
expanding foam is good but less is more as I found out when I used it to gap fill a window it expanded so much I couldn't close the window so on your boat it may push open the joints
I had a funny time with it recently! Stay tuned for that vlog ! 😅
it certainly is a strange compound@@wellbeingonwater
Rubber seal around the hatch itself, and expanding foam is poris May
Ooh I say, May certainly has a 'glow' about her this week..!! 😂♥
Does she!!
Try captain jollys creeping crack cure on the leaking window
Thanks for the advice!
@@wellbeingonwater No worries, I found it to be a life saver on my motor home when the windows were leaking
Looking good in those jeans May
Love the glasses, they really suit you. The air fryer looks great. I clicked the link but can't see where the discount is?
It's already discounted 😁
Hi may try my pond ms300 sealant it's used for putting windows in ponds but it sticks wood glass metal concrete and plastic
Thanks for your advice
Hi May,
You have a sunny appearance.
But things don't always go well when you live on the water.
A boat always needs attention.
A delicious mug of tea makes your day.
However, you have to be careful with the insulation on the battery, the outside is aluminum and is a conductor.
Thanks for the tips!
@@wellbeingonwater Don't mention it
I don't know if they have this stuff in the UK, but you might check a couple of hardware stores, or big box stores if they have those there...(Lowe's, Home depot types) but there's a sealant called flex sealant, flex tape, flex repair, etc....supposed to stop leaks...advertised constantly in the U.S..
Thanks for the ideas Phil
@@wellbeingonwater there's stuff called flex putty, which seals leaks, flex tape, also seals leaks, flex caulk..just a thought...they show building a speed boat from a screen door, then putting this flex seal all over it...and taking it out on the water...it doesn't sink!! thought it might help you out...not that expensive either...
Here in the States, we use a product called "Great Stuff." It's just a simple foam spray that can seal up those leaks. Not sure if available in the UK?
Sounds great haha
Are you charging your starter battery from your solar system? There are chargers just for keeping those batterys alive!
I don't believe so 🤔
@@wellbeingonwater I would strongly recommend doing that, your insulation does not keep the Battery warm because there is nothing there to produce heat. The best thing would be to have the Battery inside your boat, they really don't like beeing used when cold and discharged.
Or you could invest in an RV battery, "battlebornbatteries" have a heating inside so they keep themself alive in the cold, but that would be overkill in your case since you already have a warm place to put them.
Are you sure your windows are leaking or is it condensation on the inside of the single glazing? There can be a lot of moisture if it is cold outside and warm inside.
Yeshh I'm sure !
where did you get your toque/ hat? the light idea would help greatly at my job in the winter!
Chazza shop!
Bondo and fiberglass messy as all get out but once you figure it out it works great.
Thanks for the tip!
Bread Queen! another title added. Well Dun!
Thanks Geeeeza
With the front part of the insulation for your battery I wonder if cutting out only the area that is to thick for the metal frame and keeping the bulk of the insulation over the front of the battery would give it more protection from the cold?
Not sure but I'm quite happy with how it turned out
may buy a waterproof box seal it to roof with sicoflex. Run your internet cable through the box which has sealed glands on it. This is my set up. No leaks
Thanks for the advice!
You need to use a roofing mastic to temporarily fill that gap where water is running down near your hatches… take your old window out and reseal it back in with mastic, and mastic around the outside of it.
Until you do a proper fix…
Yeeeeees. Not sure which leak you're referring too
oh oh oh oh…. I spotted ‘The Book..!..
🙌🏼🙌🏼🙌🏼🙌🏼
Oooo someone mentioned first, but if they don't want it....your next
Ok Fab..! 🫶🏼🫶🏼
Hello , What about expanding Foam would that not block the water leek from the windows ?
Haha probably but it's not a very good fix if it's regularly meeting water
A couple of cable rubber grommets required there
Shout out to the vanlife people as well, they all fit windows, and vans leak more than boats due to the vibration of driving. You will get plenty of tips and information from there.
Was that Country house gent chugging past 4.54?
Hi May. Damn, that banana bread looks soooo goood!!! 😅 I am now gonna find some in my locale today! Meanwhile, at the far end of the not so good scale, I’ve also got a couple of leaks at my rear car doors, water is the most determined thing ever invented, more determined even, than me and my banana bread quest 😄 I hope you get it sorted.
Hehe thanks!
Another great video😊 what the recipe for the banana bread? Looked very tasty!
Yummmm googled "sourdough banana bread"
You ARE AMAZING did i hear you say eebyygumm,❤️❤️
Haha yes I did 😁
If you pass shops like aldi, lidl, ect, pop in and see if they have socket sets, a cheap one should be fine, and you never know if they have other things to fix jobs on the boat?
Good idea!
@@wellbeingonwater hope that helps?
Using the shrink film we get little to no condensation 😊
Need me some of that
@@wellbeingonwater checkout cable entry gland and sikaflex 522 for your roof cables ☺️
@@wellbeingonwater sorry should have put solar cable entry gland 😁
Is that Kev aka Country House Gent on Aslan at 4min 54 sec?
No idea who you mean
@@wellbeingonwater he's a legend country house gent.
Hiya mate great vlog as usual love the battery sleeping bag 😊....those low energy days can be crippling stay positive everything is fixable ....what are your thoughts on C&RT forthcoming price increases 🤔 I must say I love that engine room it's a tinkers paradise lol
It is isn't it! Love a good tinker! Needs some insulation work though! I haven't thought about it much, just hoping it's not extortionate! Cest le vie
Mybe you could use rubber Seal for your leak. It's from Bison.
Well, I recently put new seals on it. That's the frustrating thing!
On a totally unrelated topic you said in an earlier video that your boat was named dorf. Did you know that dorf is the German word for village? My little bit of trivia for the night.
Spelt like... DUORFF . I like this meaning though, cute!
For your hatch cover, do the bottom "poppers" first, then work your way up... wrestling with the top ones (instead of the bottom ones) should be much easier
That makes a lot of sense... I'll try when I'm next moored that side thanks
I use a product called sos repair tape 100% waterproof.
Sounds like a life saver
That side hatch is a bad design in my opinion. I would weld u section steel down the side openings and a flat steel bar sloping outwards to take the rain out of the boat lived on a boat a while and there’s always something to fix. Get a window vac for the condensation on windows.
It really is!! Terrible. Thanks for your thoughts
I'm fixing a hole where the rain gets in And stops my mind from wandering
Where it will go I'm filling the cracks that ran through the door And kept my mind from wandering
Where it will go. - The Beatles.
Ok thet was meant to be a joke, but I think a combination of expanding foam and insulation blocks would be a idea for the windows as for hatch metal trim strips or somthing like brush seal (a small aluminium strip which has bristles like a toothbrush on it) on the inside. There also a rubber thing that look like a car wiper blades (but I can't remember what they're called. Sorry) But like you said future may will have a solution at some point. And well done on the banana bread
I saw the journal! Am I the first to spot it?
Sadly not!
@@wellbeingonwater Story of my long, sad life. 😂😂😂
Rivets are about £20 for 500 at screwfix 😁