Laying a block edge course
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- เผยแพร่เมื่อ 1 ต.ค. 2024
- How to lay a retainer edge course using block pavers bedded onto concrete, as used for path, driveway and lawn edgings. The example shows a single width brick edging which is sometimes referred to as a soldier or sailor course. The full guide is published on the pavingexpert website. This brick edging was used as a lawn edge retainer, as shown on the website - www.pavingexper...
What ratio is the bedding concrete? Thanks
Did you get an answer to this question? I was wondering the ratio also
My builder must have watched this video but fell asleep somewhere near the beginning
Never hit a level with a mallet.
I know lol just get a 2x4 and hammer that down...you don't wanna point anything that we rely on for sensitive accuracy..
You've had your fair share of idiots in the comments section on here! I'm a joiner who needed to brush up on some edging / bedding skills for landscaping my garden, so I thank you not only for this quick vid, but also your related articles / website too. You've clearly put a lot of effort into that site, so the least I can do is thank you, it's much appreciated!
Into every life a little rain must fall, but it's the sunshine that people such as yourself bring to my work that keeps me going, no matter how many idiots feel the need to make a public display of their ignorance.
Thanks, Llyr!
Tony McCormack really good clean job, nice one pal. It does make me laugh reading the comments, I'm a builder from London 😊 thanks again
I
Nice
My only suggestion for next one is a belt. Also that seems expensive having to use that much portland or concrete. Can i use like sand, playground sand and top it off from there?
Many thanks for the video. Qq, what mix did you use for the initial bed?
Tried this method yesterday instead of wet mortar because Tony knows his stuff. I was a little sceptical, but will be doing edges like this from now on. Easy to do, easy to get lined up perfectly, no mess at all and 24 hours later the bricks are rock solid. Thanks Sir you really are the paving expert
Thanks for the confirmation, Paul!
What is the mixture to make this dry mix?
I enjoy popping back here every once in a while to read the comments saying it's being done wrong. This is a guy with a huge amount of experience and expertise doing it by the book, who has also created one of if not the most comprehensive paving websites available.
Always makes me chuckle.
Thanks for the uploads Tony.
UK paving talk on Facebook is a joke for those who think they know better, but you do do get some friendly critism of advice which good.. No need for bitchinness.
Great tutorial with not ‘life story’ but great explanatory captions. Well done Tony.
Finally a good video on laying garden edging. Nice detail, step by step. Even though its not exactly the topic I was looking for, it still gave me an idea on how to proceed. Thanks!
I'm trying to do something similar and this absolutely wonderful. I don't understand the negative comments for someone has taken the trouble to provide this information. Thank you Tony :-)
There's always naysayers and trolls - ignore them. I'm glad you found it useful!
Van Blue filimhd
Tony, very good info. I plan on doing a similar job and it never crossed my mind to use "dry" ready mix concrete for the beginning base.... makes it soooo much easier. Thank you.
Could anyone give me a link to the type of concrete used in this video, I’m in the UK? Thank you
Do you think I can get a reliable tradie in to help me??? no of course not!!! So I thought WTH .. I'll do it myself .. another qualification LOL
I like this simple edging more than the fussy looking commercial over sized edging blocks. What I did with my edging was alternate the bricks by laying one horizontally, then the next brick vertically. This breaks up the visual line and looks more natural. When the plants mature over the summer, the effect looks very pleasing
Do you have a picture??
This is the best edging video on TH-cam. One question though, you put dry concrete down as the base but it was never wetted, correct? Then wet concrete on top. Wouldn't it be enough to do what I've heard called a "dry pour" where you put the concrete down as a base, add the stones then wet the whole line lightly so that base concrete hardens over time?
you're taking those jagged rocks to the knees like a champ
Hi Tony, I like the idea of the semi dry mix being used, but would the edging blocks bond to it better if the under side of blocks were coated with a cement slurry ?
They would, but that bonding isn't essential to the performance. The haunching is the critical component, as it is that, along with the rest of the concrete mass, which provides the restraint. The blocks are merely the 'icing on the cake' - it's the concrete beam formed by the bedding and haunching that's the real functional part of the construction.
no pic of the finished product?
Steven Smyth -I kinda feel the training started in the middle and didn’t show the final product. How about showing us how to set up the string line too.
Ha!
Did anyone notice the music went to drum and bass a bit.
Good job🤣
Absolutely brilliant and clear guide to doing this project. Gave me the confidence to give it a go, and delighted with my first 5 metres
Just about a similar job on my front garden here in Londonderry ,N Ireland. I have viewed various other TH-cam videos and I am impressed with your attention to future strength and non movement of your install. The trouble with other videos is that the blocks or bricks end up sitting on nothing with no back end support.
Having read negative comments I am fully aware that empty vessels make the most noise .Keep up the great work and thanks for upload.
Doesn’t look like correct concrete mix, no ballast just sharp sand/cement.
That's explained in the accompanying text on the website. "Ballast" is an awful blend of god-knows-how-much crap sand with any-old-amount of whatever coarse aggregate is lying around and not something we use very much (if at all!) outside the aggregate-poor SE of England. We tend to have far more suitabble aggregates. For this type of project, in our part of the world, we often don't incorporate a coarse aggregate in the mix, as the sand is sufficiently sharp/coarse (known locally as a concreting sand) and therefore serves perfectly well for light use.
Looked like cement to me.
I like that he didn’t talk to much and over explain
Fantastic and informative website as well. The one place I always go too for anything relating to driveways, paving etc etc. Thank you so much for all your hard work putting your homepage together. Helps a DIYer like me enormously saving me time and money. 👍
Fantastic help to a novice, your web site has everything needed, really great service to the community.
Many thanks from Australia.
You're very welcome :~)
Never has such massive and unnecessary use of concrete mix be used in the laying of a straight line of edge blocks.
....and yet this is exactly what the British Standard requires for such a construction!
Hi Tony, I have some concrete edging that I want to use to hold in MOT type 1 on a patio I'm DIYing. Patio will be higher than the lawn, so wanted to use the concrete edging soley to contain MOT 1 went I compact it, and so it wont start crumbling away. Edging is 150mm in width. How deep would the concrete base need to be for it to sit in? I ideally I just need the 100mm of it pretuding for the mot sub base of 100mm. Woukd you recommend using a dry mix for it to sit in, then wet for haunching etc? And what mix sand / concrete to use? Thankyou in advance for any advice you could give.
Hello mate - nice helpful video. Can you give the ratio of the concrete mix (how to make it) which is put at the base and for the one used for haunching?
Please read the explanatory text, the linked wbsite page or any of the dozens of other messages asking the very same question.
Just curious why there is a mountain of concrete along the front.
good vid but your regret in later years not having knee pads on.
Great tutorial, really good presentation. Thank you Tony for sharing your experience, and for helping others to see how to best do this. Really appreciated. All Best.
I need to lay 10 bricks in a straight line in grass. I will dig a line to put the bricks into. How deep should I dig and simply placing dry ready mix concrete is enough? Or should I use sand and cement mix to place the bricks onto?
Why wasn't the cement under the blocks wet or why wasn't the cement under the blocks wetted after the blocks were laid??? Surely when there stepped on or any weight is placed on them they'll just sink into the powdered cement?
How would I run an edger down the edge of this...
What is the sand cement mix 3 to 1 ?
This video's got a KILLA BEAT son! Yea Yea!
Why would you put a wet mix on a dry mix...... Not a good idea as the dry mix will take water from the wet mix. Also its not a good idea to hit the level with the mallet.....
Hey Tony, just wondering whats your dry mix base blend?
I've a pathway to lay, (bricks or slabs not decided yet). What's best to lay them on....Base of mot1, sharp sand /cement mixed dry to bed or as per this video to lay onto? Thanks.
Depends on overall width and type of paving. Blocks can be bound or unbound construction, but, generally speaking, flags are bound. Loads and loads of guidance on the main website - www.pavingexpert.com/blocks2.htm
Thanks. I'Il take a look.
Tony McCormack fuck you and this McCormack!! go back to writing books cuz that driveway luks like dog shit wrapped in 🐈 shit
Looks great....any chance you could just come over and do it for me? 😀
got to get some knee pads!!! but loved the project! I use reclaimed Chicago and Detroit brick on my pathway projects! Love the olde look...
What mix for the bedding and what mix for the haunching please?
Could you add another course of bricks on top of these to give a little more depth to the flower bed? It would be retaining a little more soil/weight but not much more..
Great video. One question though, can you use pavers turned sideways and buried halfway down as edging?
You could if you wished to, but how "presentable" is that side face? Some pavers have prominent spacer nibs that might detratc from the finished look, but then there are plenty of pavers that are 'nibless' and might be ideal. If you like them, then that's all that really matters!
@@TonyMcCormack I'm using simple brick pavers and I only ask cause that's one of the two options I have other then cement and would like to know which would hold better. If it were available here, I'd definitely do plastic or metal edging cause of the more cleaner look that it provides.
@@brokenbutterfly3178 A concrete bedded edging offers firmer support than any plastic or metal edging system (unless they are bedded into concrete), but bvear in mind that concrete as an edge restraint isn't suitable for all countries. Those experiencing significant frost heave need a different strategy than the one we use in Britain and Ireland.
@@TonyMcCormack thanks alot. I think I'll use pavers as edging since getting a clean look with concrete is a bit of a task. Plus, I wouldn't have to worry about redoing the edges after every few years. Thanks again and I hope you have an awesome day 😊
How will you get the sand and a level block next to the edging if its bedded into concrete? Youd need to chip away at all that excess on the inside or the main paved are near the edge would sit proud.
is the dry mix just cement and ballast?
Hi Tony, is it necessary to use priming slurry? And will it be necessary to bond two blocks by the means of pointing
Hi Tony, great tutorial!Could you give me a rough idea of how much of the 4:1 mix I'd need to bed a line of single blocks (as in vid) either side of an existing slabbed garden path 14m in length. So 28m in total? From the vid, it looked like 4 shovels per 4-5 blocks, but I've no idea how big your shovel is! 😄
It depends on bed depth. There's some guidance in the table here.... www.pavingexpert.com/edging3.htm#lay, but that little project of mine used almost two barrowfuls to bed and haunch 6 linear metres. Two bags (20kg) of grit sand per barrow plus a quarter bag of cement (5kg)
Tony, that's really helped thanks, but just to confirm the ratio- your 6m edging used almost 40:10kgs?
If so, I reckon 160:40kgs should be adequate for my requirements.
No: Just spotted my mistake - it needs 10kg of cement to make a 4:1 mix with 40kg of sand.
So, two mixes @ 2x20+1x5 = 80kg sand + 20kg cement to lay the 6m, including haunching. There was a bit left over, but if you reckon on 4 times as much, so 320kg sand plus 75-80kg cement, you'll not be far off.
@@TonyMcCormack so Mortar, not concrete.
Hey mate, just wanted to say thanks. I used this video to guide me through laying heaps of recycled brick edging at my place. Some of it is a couple of years old now and looks like the day I laid it.
You're very welcome!
You my friend are a godsend.
...and you are obviously a person of excellent taste! :~)
This is helpful. I appreciate your vedios.
Thanks for the video. Very nice. Quick question.. How do you determine that your string line is completely straight? Is that just eyeballed ?
When it's just between two points, as long as the string line is taut, it *will* be straight. When there are more than two points, or when there are intermediate points, then an explanation is given on this page of my website - www.pavingexpert.com/setout01.htm#straight
Very nice demo - thanks very much. I'd prefer to work with a wetter concrete - would it matter? Isnt that just mortar you are using and not concrete?
no gravel spotted when levelling. it is mortar not concrete
I want to do this but I want my brick to be horizontal not parallel.
Good video thank you. What sand cement ratio for the dry mix?
As I've replied to dozens of others asking the same question, the details of the concrete mix are provided on the accompanying web-page referenced in the video
Thanks, found it on your site. It's excellent btw!
Hi Tony, what mix were you using here? Thanks.
what sand are you using says concrete but appears more like screeding sand as no aggregate can be seen?
There are *so* many regional and local names for that type of sand. We refer to it as concreting sand, but it is also known as sharp sand, grit sand, bedding sand, and as you pointed out, screeding sand, plus many, many more - read about them here - www.pavingexpert.com/aggs01.html#sand - The official name is the flows-off-the-tongue "Gf85 0/4 (MP) fine aggregate"....but we call it concreting sand :~)
Is there a minimum amount of gravel recommended below the dry mortar bedding layer?
I got some good videos to
What exactly is concrete bedding?
What’s the mix ratio on the bedding please mate?
why wouldn't you use a tamper and get the bed level? Loosely laying and taping with your foot, then tapping it into place is amateur. Oh, too deep so take it out and add more. Level? Opps, lets do it again. Use a tamper all the way across and start with a packed level base. Mortar is going to crack all over if live in a colder climate.
I've only been laying paving professionally for 50-odd years, after a 4yr apprenticeship in the 1970s, so I might not be doing it quite to your liking, but oddly enough, my methods are widely approved and taught throughout the country, and beyond. Feel free to make your own video showing your preferred method but I'll stick with my own for now, thanks.
Nice level why hit it with a hammer ?
The pavers are knocked down to the correct level using a *mallet* to compact the concrete bed and ensure they are firmly embedded.
why is wet mix concrete used for the haunching but not for underneath the bricks?
To ensure it bonds to the bedding concrete and makes for the strongest possible undowelled day joint. Laying kerbs/edgings onto a wet mix is very, very tricky
Excellent video...so chilled with the music. Thanks Tony, the number of views says it all!
Is this dry mix recommended to put straight ontop of clay ? Or best putting sub base in first then bed the edging ? It’s for a driveway which I’m close to starting
If the clay is firm (can't leave a bootprint in it) and reasonably dry, you could place concrete directly onto it for a driveway project edge course, but if there is any doubt, dig it out, build-up with a sub-base material, then place the concrete.
What concrete mix do you use?
Very good video. I'm in the process of doing the same with monoblock except it's along my slabbed path on both sides. I'm also using sand as I don't have the proper equipment for the concrete.
Thanks again for your video
I like the background song too
Hi there, what was your mix ratio?
Compressive strength at it's best
How do I brick an edge for my driveway if I want it curved? How do I use a string line for curves? So confused haha
This is explained on my website - www.pavingexpert.com/edging3#laying-to-curves-and-arcs
Dont hit your level
yohni villa, Correct, because it won't be a level any more :(
Stunning video Tony, on to my tenth view now...at least!! I envisage that the additional blocks that will go inside this edging course, would be laid on top of further sub-base then part compacted sand, then top sand layer done with screed bars as per your other video. Would you remove the concrete on the inside of the edging course to the full depth of the block to accommodate this? And then, if so, when laying the blocks would you lay them bit proud of the edging course to compact down to same level, and while doing so take (extreme) care not to compact the edge too? Thank you for educating us mortals!
Yes to all your questions!
Although this particular edge course was used as a retainer edge for a lawn of artificial grass, the principles are the same. You can read much more about the block laying process on my website - www.pavingexpert.com/blocks2.htm - where each of your questions is addressed and answered far more fully than I could manage here....
The concrete you are bedding the blocks down on - is that how it comes or are you adding a small amount of water to powder dry mix?
As explained in the supporting text: it's a semi-dry mix that relies on the natural moisture in the aggregate.
Can you lay it on wet concrete
If im growing the grass to the outside can i cut back the initial semi dry concrete back on the outside after haunching the inside
As long as you don't undermine the paving units and leave enough in place to keep them locked in position.
I would have laid mine on sand or level the soil.All this concrete messing about when there is no need.
Oh dear!
Did as per the video. It rained quite heavily an hour after I had finished the job and the next morning some of the hatching looks to have not set properly. I’m now a little worried that the integrity of the concrete was affected. Is this something you’ve run into before?
Give it 48 hrs then see if you can push a screwdriver into the haunching with ease or does it offer resistance? If it's not too easy, then the haunching will be fine, but if the screwdriver slides in with ease, it will probably needs replacing. My best guess is that it's probably just the outermost 10mm or so of the haunching concrete that got over-wetted by the rain and remains a little softer than desirable.
Will do. Thanks for the guidance.
What type of concrete do you use. Is it a premix with sand already in it and what type of mortar?
All is fully explained on the linked page
Sorry to say this, but it seems wastage. Rather it could be a concrete colored border !
Really? 6m of coloured concrete edging installed in-situ = 330 quid (I have access to professional prces - it's my job!), whereas 6m of single brick edge course, incl all labour, plant and materials - 90 quid. And that's why I won't be taking your advice.
Is that base from a ready mix Concrete? Or ready mix Mortar? Do you not wet it at some point?
mixed mortar
Rest in peace Tony 😢
Can you do my backyard
Great video, is the first bed wet at all?
Hi Tony, i plan on placing edging like you have up the side of my lawn. However the lawn runs up slope. In this instance a spirit level wont work. Do you have any tricks to help with this. Or should i just make sure i keep it to the lawn level.
Set up a taut string line as your level guide. It's important to lay the blocks to a consistent level/plane, and so much easier for the grass on the lawn to adapt to suit the edgings, rather than vice versa!
Thanks for posting buddy - i will be following your instruction in my next project.
Hey Tony,
I really like your video and that's exactly what I want to do. I read your website and couldn't figure it out what kind of cement, sand and gravel I should use to make the semi-dry and wet mix. Could you please refer me to the right products in HD or lowes?
We don't have HD or Lowes in Britain or Ireland, so I don't know what they'd call it. It's sharp sand with optional 6mm or 10mm gravel, and Ordinary Portland Cement (OPC)
Thank you, really appreciate it. I should be able to find them.
✨👎✨
Good job. A quick question. Can that method be used to edge driveway? Thank you.
Yes - it frequently is!
I was going to make a brick path but have decided to use bottle tops off beer bottles instead.
Edging
Bit dry
What concrete mix do you use please? I want to try and do this!
It's the same answer I've given to all the others that asked the very same question (see comments below) - you need to read the full guide to the method as published on my website - www.pavingexpert.com/edging08.htm
With that MUSIC I'll do any job. 🔊📟
There's something oddly hypnotic about this video. Very satisfying.
Andrew Ovenden I agree
I'm a psychologist; that's your Autonomous sensory meridian response (ASMR); isn't it the greatest!
Where can we see the finished project…?
On the website - follow the link in the descriptive text above
Excellent video. Obviously a man who does not half do his work. I am intending to lay a paving block lawn edge , have you any tips on laying blocks on a lawn that has a slight run off from level. The lawn is mature and I want to protect grass as much as possible. Also should I wet sponge joints or leave them level to the paving block.
Many Thanks
Always lay the blocks to a straight line, not to match the ups and downs, humps and hollows of the lawn. The grass will adapt over the years, but the concrete-bedded blocks are immovable. Follow any fall or slope on the lawn, but keep to a straight line. I wouldn't bother mortaring the joints.
@@TonyMcCormack Many thanks , for the quick reply.I will do as you say. Thanks Again
also do you still need haunching if you concrete between the bricks?
Yes: haunching is essential no matter how the paving elements are laid.
@@TonyMcCormack Was it needed to use a sub base to prevent the bricks from moving or breaking? Some people have to me its needed whilst others say it is a waste of time and money for edging.
@@jamiebond7753 We have always installed a sub-base with "spread". That is, the sub-base extends beyond the area of paving or whatever by 200-300mm or so. Consequently, when I build an edge course, it usually goes on top of that sub-base. However, there is a method that sees the edge course built odirectly on top of the sub-grade (the bare ground) and then the sub-base is laid up to that edge course. I know my preferred method is a better construction, but I have worked on projects where the latter (edging on sub-grade) has been specified and they seem to turn out OK-ish.
Will this method work in a area where the seasons change and the ground goes through a freeze and thaw cycle annually?
Probably not because there is insufficient depth of concrete to resist frost heave. It's designed for the temperate maritime climate of Britain and Ireland.
@@TonyMcCormack thank you for the reply. I was worried that might be the case. I'm guessing I'll have to dig down and create a base with gravel and sand to set the edging properly for my climate. It's hard to know.