TimNummy A couple questions: 1. Are you using a broken broom handle for buffing? 2. Isn't diamond white buffing compound more coarse than the red rouge compound? **Btw: I don't know if "red rouge" is the proper name for it, but it's what our metal shop teacher called it in the 80s! He told us to first adequately sand, then buff with diamond white, then use red rouge to finish it up. 3. What is the tool that machined the checkered pattern on the handle in basically 1 fell swoop? Nice project, and even under non-high speed replay, it was probably a fairly quick project to finish.
Hey! Thanks for the comment. 1. It's just a piece of wooden dowel and in the case of the compounds that came in the kit I got, black is most coarse, followed by red, and finally white for a high luster polish. I did a whole video on it here: th-cam.com/video/VPmIRAz0XhY/w-d-xo.html 2. See 1. :) 3. That's called a knurling tool and you can pick one up like the one I'm using here: amzn.to/2pI4fCq This project wasn't too bad but it was one of my longer projects of things that I've done, but it was also one of my earlier projects so there was still a lot of figuring out to do.
You should try spiral flute taps. When tapping bottomed holes it makes life a lot easier. Keep up the good work. I'd also suggest playing around with some scrap metal making radius chamfers by hand using both carriage and cross slide handles at once. Makes for some really nice looking and functional transitions.
This is absolutely awesome bro I made a hammer for my one project in machining class back in my tech school my dad was a machinist for decades and got me interested in it never been happier with a skill I've learned than when I learned machining learned on the old engine lathe's and overhead mill machines them Bridgeports cnc machines where a concept back then but I started learning then I'd rather hand machine any day of the week love the channel sofar bro awesome work
Great vid. Only thing I can see that I would fix is that you used a Hex dye to cut your threads. From what I was taught, Hex dyes are for chasing threads and Circle dyes are for cutting them. I believe the only reason it cut relatively well was because it was a soft metal like Aluminum. Other then that, hats off.
I would love to have a lathe like that! A few tips though: Countersink the holes before tapping to avoid chipping teeth on your taps. At the start, turn the head completly first, leaving roughly .1 on the end, cut it off, then face it to size. After this then drill the hole on center for the handle. There should be plenty of room for the thread, so a blind hole will work(thats why we have bottoming taps.) Use a spring center and tap wrench to tap, its easier and not too expensive for those tools. Your finishes came out great though. Two questions: What is the diameter of the throat? and can you use collets with this lathe?
Thanks so much for watching and for the tips! I should definitely invest in some bottoming taps. I think the final product with the top trim piece came out really nice anyway though so look out for the second part video. As for your questions, the diameter of the throat is ~35.2 mm at the skinny part and ~38.5 mm at the ends. I've seen videos where people use collets that they just clamp into the chuck with this lathe, so I think the answer is yes.
Great job man a tip from a cnc machinist also I like to make my handles out of poly to reduce vibration on the swing. Aluminium looks way cooler tho lol
Hi Tim: I am making your hammer in my metal shop as we speek. One suggestion: I am taught that the center drill shown at 7:21, should not be plunged deeper than the bevel. That way, the following drill will be guided by the interior bevel and not the lip of exterior shoulder. Do you (or others) think there is any difference here? Thanks again Tim.
Ever used a living hinge for adjustable angle adjustment? Small angle adjustment to be sure but if the mirror or lens mount is very stiff so that if precision in an environment containing motors, it minimizes low frequency distorting an image.
tim, at 0:41 cutting a face on a bar that far away from the chuck is a really bad practice, i dont know if your lathe came with a fixed steady but that would be the time to use one, if you don't have one it would be a good project to make one. im sure you could imagine what would happen if the tool grabbed the end of the bar and knocked it off at an angle, if you had you hands or face in the way it would not be pretty, also it could damage your machine, machine safely and always think, what's the worst that could happen if....
I know :/ I don't have a steady yet and the material diameter was too large to slide it back through the chuck... definitely not good practice but I just wanted to take a careful, light facing cut to get it moderately square before setting the live center. I definitely appreciate the comment and am going to pin this to the top so others can find it as well. Thanks for watching :)
Thanks for letting me know! Part of the reason I'm posting these videos is so people who know better can (constructively) tell me what I'm doing wrong :)
Funny thing, I don't recall seeing very many fast-forwarded machining videos. But I think it's interesting what you can see when it's fast-forwarded versus real time. Some of the things that happen gradually in real time cannot be seen. For instance, I never realized how much aluminum dust is being generated when sanding or polishing something on the lathe.
5:55 to avoid jaw marks on your knurling the best way is not to put jaws on the knurling. But you might try something like fish paper or pads of folded aluminum foil, or bore a chunk of nylon or wood to the OD of the knurling and slit it in three parts with your bandsaw, then clamp the chuck on that.
"Even if the two sides aren't perfectly lined up with each other, they should at least be perfectly lined up with themselves". how the heck does that work.
17Industries I think he misspoke. I think he meant that even if the two faces aren’t lined up perfectly with the handle they’ll at least be lined up/ parallel with each other
It's been a while but I think I meant even if the center lines of each face aren't lined up, the center line of the face and the corresponding side of the hammer head would be aligned
0:48 you can make a makeshift steady out of wood for something like that. Start thinking about end support when you get more than about six diameters away from the chuck. For this application though I'd think about marking the center using the centering head on your combination square (or that printed centering gadget someone pointed you to on the large-diameter video) and center punch it, then use the punch mark to start your center drill, starting with your smallest center drill so the pilot will go in your punch mark.
Hi Tim, Your project is really awesome and with your consent I would love to use your project for a training project for my high school students as it shows a basic understanding of lathe work. I am an Industrial Arts Instructor where one of the subject I teach is Machining. Thanks for sharing.
I just acquired a mini lathe like this set up with a matching mill. I have 0 experience in metal work. Do you have any videos breaking down the functions of the various bits and cutters that you use? There’s so many different parts to the machine I don’t know where to start
Hi colleague. You have poor surface cleanliness, tighten the spindle bearing (tune) and try to use kerosene when turning and cutting threads on aluminum, cleanliness will be better. I use a mixture of kerosene and diesel when processing aluminum By the way, what polishing paste do you use? P.S. Sorry for my English I'm a turner from Russia.
If you had drilled the hole for the end-caps all the way through, you could've mounted it on a mandrill, and turned the whole outside profile in one go, instead of flipping it round and risking the dreaded lack of concentricity .
Nice looking project! I subbed cause I love seeing what people can do with these mini lathes. I'm not new to the shop but I'm new to miniature machining, so I'm always looking for good projects that are within the capabilities of a mini machine. Happy chip making
Nice job on the hammer, not sure how you can stand to use that lathe. I have the newer model of that lathe with DRO, I can't stand to use it. I bought a 13x40 Grizzly and love it. I'm gonna try to build a hammer similar to that. Thanks.
When you face and center drill the part you aren’t supposed to have it sticking out that far. It’s dangerous because it can easily start to spin rapidly and go flying out of the chuck
Tim, I am back just for a little advice. During the video, don't remember exact time, you left the key in the mandrel to do something else. I guess that it was a bad idea because you can the machine inadvertently and hurt yourself. I think it's not safe to do that. I learned that since I was in school. Always think safety.
How does the slender section of the handle hold up to use being aluminium? I don't know if I'm just feeling a bit conservative or heavy handed but it looks like it could do with being a bit stronger. It'll be a project for the new year for me! Thanks for the great content.
I haven't used it too much other than tapping on things I'm making with the lathe but so far it's great and has a solid feel. The reason I went with that diameter is simply because that was the largest tap I had haha. But I honestly don't think I could hit anything hard enough holding it in my hand to come close to breaking it. Let me know how yours turns out and thanks for watching!
if you can find 7000 series aluminum its supposed to be better for machining. i noticed that 6061 is pretty gummy i know that welders like 6061 because its easier to weld, you said you are new so i figured i would throw my 2 cents in. keep up the good work!
I've always been a gear head and enjoyed tinkering in the garage but never had the chance to do any machining work (lathe, mill, other big tools that show no mercy) and finally found myself needing some custom parts that had to be done on a lathe so I figured it was a good time to get one and learn :) (also that was only a couple months ago and I've spent half the time fixing this thing)
Does you lathe move when you tab or sand because of its general "whimpiness" or because you haven't bolted it down? Awesome content! Keep your great work up and thanks for sharing your talent with us. Cheers
Both haha... probably more so because it's not bolted down. It doesn't weigh that much so it doesn't have much heft to keep it still but also the rubber feet on the bottom are pretty narrowly spaced so it just isn't super steady. The good thing is that at least the tool doesn't move very much relative to the part even though the whole thing bounces around. Definitely something I need to improve either with better/wider feet or bolting it to something. Thanks for watching!
you have to cool your workpiece with 100% alcohol that gives you the best surface and your tool doesnt break so fast ^^ and you dont have to polish youll see
9:35, it's a good habit to never handle swarf with your fingers, always use a tool. You can get away with it to some extent with aluminum, but even aluminum can rip you. As I said, good habit.
Ha yeah I'm sure, right now I still need it to be somewhat easy to move though - hopefully sooner rather than later I'll have a dedicated place for it. Thanks for watching!
4:00 you're using lots of abrasives in your work, between the bars of compound and the sandpaper. I'd suggest covering the ways when you do that sort of work.
I was wondering if anyone would mention that... I ended up trying a new setting that sounded great on my computer but then terrible after uploading it to youtube.
What's that minilathe you use? it looks awesome to work with. Do you recommend it? By the way, third time watching this video, I'm fascinated by machining thanks to you. Any tips on how to get started? EDIT: Just saw your series of videos fixing the lathe... so I guess it's not great just out of the box. How to know what's a good machine for a newbie?
Haha that's accurate. I'm so glad you're fascinated! I don't know that there is any super high quality table top sized lathe on the market... and if there is it's probably very expensive. There are large commercial sized lathes and tiny watch maker sized lathes that are very good, this is just a neglected middle ground. As for recommending it, I'm totally new as well but I think any lathe of this style (Grizzly, Seig C2, Harbor Freight, or unbranded Chinese brand like mine) are all going to have similar issues at some point - so I'd recommend buying the cheapest one you can find and spending some time taking it completely apart, cleaning it, oiling it, fixing it, and then enjoying it. At the very least you'll learn a lot about the lathe in the process. As you can see, with a little TLC, these mini lathes can produce some very decent parts. I got started by inadvertently buying one and then watching a bunch of youtube videos :)
thank you for this great video. I want to buy the exact lathe as you. could you make a review on it and maybe another video on how to get it up and running. the reviews are mainly good but have a bunch of "must dos" before you run it
Definitely watch some of my other views... I've done quite a few that go into pretty good detail specifically because I had the same questions as you when I got mine. Hope they help and let me know if you still have questions otherwise!
Good to hear! Probably this -> th-cam.com/video/JpU8BzNyZww/w-d-xo.html make sure everything is oiled and tightened properly. Rather than using grease like I did though, oil would be better.
في التلميع لماذا لم تجعل الملمعات مثل الشفرة وتظيف نفس الضغط على ادوات التلميع كي تتخلص من الصقل العشوائي واكثر من ذلك يصبح اكثر دقة واعتذر ربما لا تحب انتقادي ومشروع جميل
Curious. Is it impossible to thread on a mini lathe like that?? I noticed you cutting threads with a die and not the machine. How come? Thinking of purchasing a mini lathe but if it can't thread I may reconsider.🤔
Question for the guys that know more than I where is a good place to buy the cutting bits I bought a lathe at a yard sale but it has no bits also what is a good price for them
Good afternoon Tim, I just subscribed to your channel and I was wondering how you like the mini lathe? What brand is it and do you think it'd be a wise investment? I restore things and sometimes you just have to make the parts.
Maybe I could have put it in a more obvious place but it's to the right of the middle view. It's a diameter on the "top" view. Find it? It's also 25mm if you didn't find it haha.
Download the drawings on how to make one of these yourself! www.patreon.com/posts/14548892
TimNummy
A couple questions: 1. Are you using a broken broom handle for buffing? 2. Isn't diamond white buffing compound more coarse than the red rouge compound? **Btw: I don't know if "red rouge" is the proper name for it, but it's what our metal shop teacher called it in the 80s! He told us to first adequately sand, then buff with diamond white, then use red rouge to finish it up. 3. What is the tool that machined the checkered pattern on the handle in basically 1 fell swoop? Nice project, and even under non-high speed replay, it was probably a fairly quick project to finish.
Hey! Thanks for the comment.
1. It's just a piece of wooden dowel and in the case of the compounds that came in the kit I got, black is most coarse, followed by red, and finally white for a high luster polish. I did a whole video on it here: th-cam.com/video/VPmIRAz0XhY/w-d-xo.html
2. See 1. :)
3. That's called a knurling tool and you can pick one up like the one I'm using here: amzn.to/2pI4fCq
This project wasn't too bad but it was one of my longer projects of things that I've done, but it was also one of my earlier projects so there was still a lot of figuring out to do.
TimNummy what is the title of the last song in this video?
TimNummy пробуй брать на себя что бы стружки не было
Сделайте так что бы на этот молоток можно было разные носадки присобачить тапор отбивные и дальше
You should try spiral flute taps. When tapping bottomed holes it makes life a lot easier. Keep up the good work. I'd also suggest playing around with some scrap metal making radius chamfers by hand using both carriage and cross slide handles at once. Makes for some really nice looking and functional transitions.
Thanks! I definitely need to get some better taps - ironically, most the stock I have is "scrap" metal from commercial orders haha
@@TimNummy haha I hear ya. Keep it up, bro. Enjoyed your videos
This is absolutely awesome bro I made a hammer for my one project in machining class back in my tech school my dad was a machinist for decades and got me interested in it never been happier with a skill I've learned than when I learned machining learned on the old engine lathe's and overhead mill machines them Bridgeports cnc machines where a concept back then but I started learning then I'd rather hand machine any day of the week love the channel sofar bro awesome work
Thanks! I'm jealous of your exposure to both the knowledge and the proper tools!
👍👍👍👍
Geez, kid...you're a natural to this craft. Great work, nice finish. Can't wait to see part 2. Oh yeah....always have fun.
Thanks very much! I hugely appreciate that!
Hey, man...credit where credit is due.
Great vid. Only thing I can see that I would fix is that you used a Hex dye to cut your threads. From what I was taught, Hex dyes are for chasing threads and Circle dyes are for cutting them. I believe the only reason it cut relatively well was because it was a soft metal like Aluminum. Other then that, hats off.
This man is pro , and so does his machine.
Thanks so much!
I would love to have a lathe like that! A few tips though: Countersink the holes before tapping to avoid chipping teeth on your taps. At the start, turn the head completly first, leaving roughly .1 on the end, cut it off, then face it to size. After this then drill the hole on center for the handle. There should be plenty of room for the thread, so a blind hole will work(thats why we have bottoming taps.) Use a spring center and tap wrench to tap, its easier and not too expensive for those tools. Your finishes came out great though. Two questions: What is the diameter of the throat? and can you use collets with this lathe?
Thanks so much for watching and for the tips! I should definitely invest in some bottoming taps. I think the final product with the top trim piece came out really nice anyway though so look out for the second part video.
As for your questions, the diameter of the throat is ~35.2 mm at the skinny part and ~38.5 mm at the ends. I've seen videos where people use collets that they just clamp into the chuck with this lathe, so I think the answer is yes.
Great job man a tip from a cnc machinist also I like to make my handles out of poly to reduce vibration on the swing. Aluminium looks way cooler tho lol
Hi Tim: I am making your hammer in my metal shop as we speek. One suggestion: I am taught that the center drill shown at 7:21, should not be plunged deeper than the bevel. That way, the following drill will be guided by the interior bevel and not the lip of exterior shoulder. Do you (or others) think there is any difference here? Thanks again Tim.
I really like the wood dowel polishing technique...pretty cool
Ever used a living hinge for adjustable angle adjustment? Small angle adjustment to be sure but if the mirror or lens mount is very stiff so that if precision in an environment containing motors, it minimizes low frequency distorting an image.
Very cool Hammer! JINWEI Tool-Holders are great for small Lathes like yours! 👍🏻
tim, at 0:41 cutting a face on a bar that far away from the chuck is a really bad practice, i dont know if your lathe came with a fixed steady but that would be the time to use one, if you don't have one it would be a good project to make one.
im sure you could imagine what would happen if the tool grabbed the end of the bar and knocked it off at an angle, if you had you hands or face in the way it would not be pretty, also it could damage your machine, machine safely and always think, what's the worst that could happen if....
I know :/ I don't have a steady yet and the material diameter was too large to slide it back through the chuck... definitely not good practice but I just wanted to take a careful, light facing cut to get it moderately square before setting the live center.
I definitely appreciate the comment and am going to pin this to the top so others can find it as well. Thanks for watching :)
chrismechanic B Hi, I'm ignorant in this, what's the danger? Just out of curiosity.
the workpiece could snap out due to the friction caused by the cutting tool.
i saw the predicerment you was in tim, i did not know if you knew about steadys and wanted to point them out to you, great work on the hammer. ;)
Thanks for letting me know! Part of the reason I'm posting these videos is so people who know better can (constructively) tell me what I'm doing wrong :)
That Aluminum polishes up nice.
Very Good Working
Hi next time when you do a Thread, do a 90° lowering before, because its whey better for your drill.🤙🏼
Still have the one I made 45 years ago! Not sure about the precision sandpaper work though.
Funny thing, I don't recall seeing very many fast-forwarded machining videos. But I think it's interesting what you can see when it's fast-forwarded versus real time. Some of the things that happen gradually in real time cannot be seen.
For instance, I never realized how much aluminum dust is being generated when sanding or polishing something on the lathe.
5:55 to avoid jaw marks on your knurling the best way is not to put jaws on the knurling. But you might try something like fish paper or pads of folded aluminum foil, or bore a chunk of nylon or wood to the OD of the knurling and slit it in three parts with your bandsaw, then clamp the chuck on that.
"Even if the two sides aren't perfectly lined up with each other, they should at least be perfectly lined up with themselves". how the heck does that work.
17Industries I think he misspoke. I think he meant that even if the two faces aren’t lined up perfectly with the handle they’ll at least be lined up/ parallel with each other
It's been a while but I think I meant even if the center lines of each face aren't lined up, the center line of the face and the corresponding side of the hammer head would be aligned
I can't believe this sir. Are u great sir. I am applying this idea thanks
0:48 you can make a makeshift steady out of wood for something like that. Start thinking about end support when you get more than about six diameters away from the chuck.
For this application though I'd think about marking the center using the centering head on your combination square (or that printed centering gadget someone pointed you to on the large-diameter video) and center punch it, then use the punch mark to start your center drill, starting with your smallest center drill so the pilot will go in your punch mark.
Hi Tim,
Your project is really awesome and with your consent I would love to use your project for a training project for my high school students as it shows a basic understanding of lathe work. I am an Industrial Arts Instructor where one of the subject I teach is Machining. Thanks for sharing.
That'd be great! Just let me know how it goes :)
I just acquired a mini lathe like this set up with a matching mill. I have 0 experience in metal work. Do you have any videos breaking down the functions of the various bits and cutters that you use? There’s so many different parts to the machine I don’t know where to start
Hi colleague.
You have poor surface cleanliness, tighten the spindle bearing (tune) and try to use kerosene when turning and cutting threads on aluminum, cleanliness will be better. I use a mixture of kerosene and diesel when processing aluminum
By the way, what polishing paste do you use?
P.S. Sorry for my English I'm a turner from Russia.
Thanks! I actually did a video on the polishing as well - th-cam.com/video/VPmIRAz0XhY/w-d-xo.html
へぇ～こうやって作るんだ!! 勉強になります!!
$500 lathe!! This is impressive given the tools!!
If you had drilled the hole for the end-caps all the way through, you could've mounted it on a mandrill, and turned the whole outside profile in one go, instead of flipping it round and risking the dreaded lack of concentricity .
Good point. That would have been a nice way of doing it
Nice looking project! I subbed cause I love seeing what people can do with these mini lathes. I'm not new to the shop but I'm new to miniature machining, so I'm always looking for good projects that are within the capabilities of a mini machine. Happy chip making
Thanks so much! I'm glad you enjoyed and hopefully can pick up some ideas :)
Nice job on the hammer, not sure how you can stand to use that lathe. I have the newer model of that lathe with DRO, I can't stand to use it. I bought a 13x40 Grizzly and love it. I'm gonna try to build a hammer similar to that. Thanks.
When you face and center drill the part you aren’t supposed to have it sticking out that far. It’s dangerous because it can easily start to spin rapidly and go flying out of the chuck
Awesome very good watch great quality videoing even when running the lathe 👍🏼👍🏼👍🏼
Good and clean work! Well done!
How does your lathe work?
Pretty well for the most part - a lot of things are more work than they should be on a full size lathe but it will still get the job done.
Tim, I am back just for a little advice. During the video, don't remember exact time, you left the key in the mandrel to do something else. I guess that it was a bad idea because you can the machine inadvertently and hurt yourself. I think it's not safe to do that. I learned that since I was in school. Always think safety.
I missed the word start in my last comment. I mean "start up the machine inadvertently ". I'm sorry.
A best hammer looked till now in design
Thanks!
Shouldn’t you have drilled the hole in the middle of the head AFTER the milling and knocking off of material?
How does the slender section of the handle hold up to use being aluminium? I don't know if I'm just feeling a bit conservative or heavy handed but it looks like it could do with being a bit stronger. It'll be a project for the new year for me! Thanks for the great content.
I haven't used it too much other than tapping on things I'm making with the lathe but so far it's great and has a solid feel. The reason I went with that diameter is simply because that was the largest tap I had haha. But I honestly don't think I could hit anything hard enough holding it in my hand to come close to breaking it.
Let me know how yours turns out and thanks for watching!
if you can find 7000 series aluminum its supposed to be better for machining. i noticed that 6061 is pretty gummy i know that welders like 6061 because its easier to weld, you said you are new so i figured i would throw my 2 cents in. keep up the good work!
Thanks! I'll have to see if I can get my hands on some of that.
Do you have previous experience machining or did you just decided one day to get a lathe and see what you would do
I've always been a gear head and enjoyed tinkering in the garage but never had the chance to do any machining work (lathe, mill, other big tools that show no mercy) and finally found myself needing some custom parts that had to be done on a lathe so I figured it was a good time to get one and learn :) (also that was only a couple months ago and I've spent half the time fixing this thing)
This guy got some mad skill, I would never even attempt to center drill with the material that far out of the chuck.
its not skill, its simply said "careless". and dangerous, concidering the poor quality of the lathe and the chuck in itself
I can actually see flexing of the machine just during sanding. I’m surprised it makes such nice parts.
The machine isn’t flexing just wobbling
If everything is true it shouldn’t effect finished product by much but would be a lot easier to bolt her down
Nice and excellent work
Them calipers and that neural is nice
very awesome working.
Worked very well.
Does you lathe move when you tab or sand because of its general "whimpiness" or because you haven't bolted it down? Awesome content! Keep your great work up and thanks for sharing your talent with us. Cheers
Both haha... probably more so because it's not bolted down. It doesn't weigh that much so it doesn't have much heft to keep it still but also the rubber feet on the bottom are pretty narrowly spaced so it just isn't super steady. The good thing is that at least the tool doesn't move very much relative to the part even though the whole thing bounces around. Definitely something I need to improve either with better/wider feet or bolting it to something. Thanks for watching!
Very fascinating man. Good job
É gratificante acompanhar os episódios, pois o aprendizado na riqueza de detalhes é muito útil para desempenhar projetos com mais facilidade.
Muito obrigado! Eu realmente aprecio isso :)
carlos alberto p s novo silva novo é uma ferramenta?
you have to cool your workpiece with 100% alcohol that gives you the best surface and your tool doesnt break so fast ^^ and you dont have to polish youll see
Sh
u did very will i never seen this type of ides great job dud
Thanks!
9:35, it's a good habit to never handle swarf with your fingers, always use a tool. You can get away with it to some extent with aluminum, but even aluminum can rip you. As I said, good habit.
Nothing like watching meticulous excellent work
I really appreciate that! Thanks for watching!
What are the “sticks” you are using to polish the aluminum??? Is it a wooden dowel with something wrapped around it??
Just a regular wooden dowel with polishing compound on it!
My uncle he is Judge I will tell him if he needs one.. Good work 😁
😂😂😂😂
Great stuff Tim!
Really fun looking project.Got to figure out how to get a lathe.
Nice work
Very nice!
Which type of wood and paste are you use for shining?
Super work sir
love the vid, I same the same lathe and its great to get your feet wet in machining, def need to bolt that baby down! Will make such a difference
Ha yeah I'm sure, right now I still need it to be somewhat easy to move though - hopefully sooner rather than later I'll have a dedicated place for it. Thanks for watching!
very nice work! awesome
Thank you! :)
best wood working tools
Ich hoffe, dass ich bald drehen werde, weil das echt der ober Hammer ist. Top Video!!!
4:00 you're using lots of abrasives in your work, between the bars of compound and the sandpaper. I'd suggest covering the ways when you do that sort of work.
It's better to watch in 1.5x 🔥⚗️
From a fellow Fitter Machinist good job mate!
Dear TimNummy,
Unfortunately, I absolutely never see that, it is your blade 45 and 30 degree. What's name blade?
Hey Timmy, whats the tool called that you used to make the grip on the hand section?
It's called a knurler.
I have it listed in the description :)
Hi cool hammer. What material is the stick you use for polishing?
nice work keep up whit the work
timo the Gamer k
Man...that lathe moves around a lot...have you considered bolting it down to the bench?
I have, but currently I still need it to be movable. Thanks for watching.
Thanks for sharing, looks really good, will try to build it too :o :D
Let me know how it turns out!
learning CNC on a Seiger SLZ 400E right now, if iam finished the next practise i will start :D And will share :P
new to working on lathes. this is awesome to watch by the way.
Whats the tool called you used to make the grip on the handle?
Hey! It's a Knurling Tool and you can find the one I used here: amzn.to/2pI4fCq
Thanks!
nice work
Nice 👍🏽 job
Great vid, but can you please back up about 5-10 cm from the mic? The sound got a bit distorted...
I was wondering if anyone would mention that... I ended up trying a new setting that sounded great on my computer but then terrible after uploading it to youtube.
What's that minilathe you use? it looks awesome to work with. Do you recommend it? By the way, third time watching this video, I'm fascinated by machining thanks to you. Any tips on how to get started?
EDIT: Just saw your series of videos fixing the lathe... so I guess it's not great just out of the box. How to know what's a good machine for a newbie?
Haha that's accurate. I'm so glad you're fascinated!
I don't know that there is any super high quality table top sized lathe on the market... and if there is it's probably very expensive. There are large commercial sized lathes and tiny watch maker sized lathes that are very good, this is just a neglected middle ground.
As for recommending it, I'm totally new as well but I think any lathe of this style (Grizzly, Seig C2, Harbor Freight, or unbranded Chinese brand like mine) are all going to have similar issues at some point - so I'd recommend buying the cheapest one you can find and spending some time taking it completely apart, cleaning it, oiling it, fixing it, and then enjoying it. At the very least you'll learn a lot about the lathe in the process.
As you can see, with a little TLC, these mini lathes can produce some very decent parts.
I got started by inadvertently buying one and then watching a bunch of youtube videos :)
Super cool😉 hammer💪💪💪
thank you for this great video. I want to buy the exact lathe as you. could you make a review on it and maybe another video on how to get it up and running. the reviews are mainly good but have a bunch of "must dos" before you run it
Definitely watch some of my other views... I've done quite a few that go into pretty good detail specifically because I had the same questions as you when I got mine. Hope they help and let me know if you still have questions otherwise!
TimNummy thank you Tim! You Have brought confidence to me. If there is something to do first except the belt and cog. What would you suggest
Good to hear! Probably this -> th-cam.com/video/JpU8BzNyZww/w-d-xo.html make sure everything is oiled and tightened properly. Rather than using grease like I did though, oil would be better.
What is the object that looks like a tree branch that you are rubbing to polish.
في التلميع لماذا لم تجعل الملمعات مثل الشفرة وتظيف نفس الضغط على ادوات التلميع كي تتخلص من الصقل العشوائي واكثر من ذلك يصبح اكثر دقة واعتذر ربما لا تحب انتقادي ومشروع جميل
Die nuts are not for cutting threads, they are for cleaning them.
What did you use to polish the aluminum on the lathe? A wooden dowel?
Interesting , well done
Curious. Is it impossible to thread on a mini lathe like that?? I noticed you cutting threads with a die and not the machine. How come? Thinking of purchasing a mini lathe but if it can't thread I may reconsider.🤔
What about making a spindle lock?
what are you using to make it look very shiney? so clean
I made a video on that... th-cam.com/video/VPmIRAz0XhY/w-d-xo.html
Good work
My deign and manufacturing class are actually making a hammer. Not the same kind but eh
love your work btw!
Thanks so much! That's really cool you're making one in class. Let me know how it turns out.
My class is too (Ventura, CA)
Good job bro
Whats the toughest metal you can turn on it?
im not an actual machinist, but with your mini lathe can you put the material all the way through?
it might help with stability issues
Only if it's less than 3/4" diameter on this little lathe
I award you First Prize. Thank you for sharing your work with us.
Thanks :)
squirting cream......
Virginia Hoffman
Sure takes me back. .cheers.
Very nice job Tim. I love it. Thanks for uploading this awesome video. 👍
Question for the guys that know more than I where is a good place to buy the cutting bits I bought a lathe at a yard sale but it has no bits also what is a good price for them
Hello why I can’t shape my aluminum like you did ?
молодец отлично получилось
Good afternoon Tim, I just subscribed to your channel and I was wondering how you like the mini lathe? What brand is it and do you think it'd be a wise investment? I restore things and sometimes you just have to make the parts.
great job. I have downloaded the plans but can't find the diameter of the grip of the handle on your drawings, am I missing the dimension?
Maybe I could have put it in a more obvious place but it's to the right of the middle view. It's a diameter on the "top" view.
Find it? It's also 25mm if you didn't find it haha.