Also the clutch fork is a wear item on these cars. You bought yourself some time with the pedal adjustment but the issue is that the throw out bearing wears down the fork tabs to a point where the clutch doesn't fully disengage. AGP makes a stronger one.
Don’t be shocked if your boost levels fall a little bit. The mopar computer will learn your WGA and adjust accordingly. If you unplug the battery or if it ever does they will be high again until. It relearns everything. I’m so pumped for you man. Hopefully my comments haven’t been to long winded and helpful for ya. If you have any questions or whatever just let me know.
There's very little difference between mode 2 and 3. There should be a little less boost in 1st gear for mode 2 but nothing I could notice on a datalog. Also I beleive HOM (High Octane Mode) requirement is a lot less stringent for Stage 2 then Stage 3 cars. I've heard of people back in the day running Stage 2 holding HOM with some 94 and octane booster. My Stage 3 would sometimes kick out running 110.
WAIT. NO. (SO glad I came across your video) that is not how you perform the crossover adjustment. You set it in 3rd* gear before you snug it down, it should not* be in neutral when you snug it down, fyi. Grats you got this far in the build man! Cheers
Also be extremely mindful of WOT under 3k* rpms with no tune. Base tune/ecu will give you problems with a lot of mods/aftermarket intakes and such. A tune is defs the best mod to get sorted next!
Thanks for the advice. I read someone doing it the way I did it and also read someone doing it in 3rd gear. I guess 3rd gear is the right way. I'll readjust it and see if it makes a difference. As far as the tune it has stage 2 Mopar tune with supporting mods. Not stock tune. I was just trying out the toys boost dial to see if it was working. Thanks for bringing this to my attention.
@@importmodify Good stuff! thanks for reading hope this aids with a more seemless shift experience. Don't forget to complete the torque mount adjustment procedure as well. one of the most important adjustments needed anytime any of the engine mount bolts are removed for a even a second. Understood! Stage 2 Mopar tune is neat, but an actual tune from dave360 at endlesstorque website with revisions is a whole new vehicle brother. 1025cc injectors by a tuner that intimately knows that platform + those specific injectors. e85/91/93 highly worth it for the experience. The base Mopar tunes are okay, but not as reliable or consistent as a revised tune specific to YOUR engine and mods. Super stoked for you, i know the exact process and feeling you're presently at, and it's just getting started in terms of "reward". These platforms are amazing to have once in your life.
@soulfv_1 idk I would have to hear it but when the turbo compresses air it has a whine noise to it. I'd take the intake off and inspect the fins and rotate them to make sure that it spins freely. Inspect the fins as well to make sure there is no damage. Sorry but that the best advice I got.
i had mine for 11 yrs and had a stage 2 kit. so miss it. i want another one
Right on bro!!! Seen the progress and you’re earning it!!
Thanks! Yeah it put up a little fight!
Also the clutch fork is a wear item on these cars. You bought yourself some time with the pedal adjustment but the issue is that the throw out bearing wears down the fork tabs to a point where the clutch doesn't fully disengage. AGP makes a stronger one.
I have an AGP installed. Yes, my other one was worn down.
Don’t be shocked if your boost levels fall a little bit. The mopar computer will learn your WGA and adjust accordingly. If you unplug the battery or if it ever does they will be high again until. It relearns everything. I’m so pumped for you man. Hopefully my comments haven’t been to long winded and helpful for ya. If you have any questions or whatever just let me know.
That's good to know! Nah man your good 👍 I appreciate all the help! Thanks, I'm stoked to finally have a Srt4!
Hell ya another Texas NSRT! Clean bro very clean!
Thank you! Yeah 1 more for Texas!
There's very little difference between mode 2 and 3. There should be a little less boost in 1st gear for mode 2 but nothing I could notice on a datalog. Also I beleive HOM (High Octane Mode) requirement is a lot less stringent for Stage 2 then Stage 3 cars. I've heard of people back in the day running Stage 2 holding HOM with some 94 and octane booster. My Stage 3 would sometimes kick out running 110.
Careful, I did the same thing to my intake and it sucked into the turbo,
That must have sucked no pun intended. Thanks for the heads up!
Congratulations that's awesome. I'm sure it's a great feeling.
Yes its a great feeling! Thank you!
Congratulations brother
Thanks I'm now part of that srt4 crew 😄
Good sounds!!
Sorry i know this is probably in one of your videos and i might just be dumb but where do i get a shirt?
I have a couple left. 25 doll hairs haha
congrats man.
Thanks dude!
WAIT. NO. (SO glad I came across your video) that is not how you perform the crossover adjustment. You set it in 3rd* gear before you snug it down, it should not* be in neutral when you snug it down, fyi. Grats you got this far in the build man! Cheers
Also be extremely mindful of WOT under 3k* rpms with no tune. Base tune/ecu will give you problems with a lot of mods/aftermarket intakes and such. A tune is defs the best mod to get sorted next!
Thanks for the advice. I read someone doing it the way I did it and also read someone doing it in 3rd gear. I guess 3rd gear is the right way. I'll readjust it and see if it makes a difference. As far as the tune it has stage 2 Mopar tune with supporting mods. Not stock tune. I was just trying out the toys boost dial to see if it was working. Thanks for bringing this to my attention.
@@importmodify Good stuff! thanks for reading hope this aids with a more seemless shift experience.
Don't forget to complete the torque mount adjustment procedure as well. one of the most important adjustments needed anytime any of the engine mount bolts are removed for a even a second.
Understood! Stage 2 Mopar tune is neat, but an actual tune from dave360 at endlesstorque website with revisions is a whole new vehicle brother. 1025cc injectors by a tuner that intimately knows that platform + those specific injectors. e85/91/93 highly worth it for the experience. The base Mopar tunes are okay, but not as reliable or consistent as a revised tune specific to YOUR engine and mods.
Super stoked for you, i know the exact process and feeling you're presently at, and it's just getting started in terms of "reward". These platforms are amazing to have once in your life.
Ok cool! Great advice. I'll look into all that! I appreciate your knowledge!
Welcome to the select few srt4s owners in America
Haha right! Thanks for the welcome!
Btw clean neon
you wouldn't happen to know why my turbos whines for my srt4?
@@soulfv_1 at idle? All the time?
@@importmodify no when in boost like higher rpm
@soulfv_1 idk I would have to hear it but when the turbo compresses air it has a whine noise to it. I'd take the intake off and inspect the fins and rotate them to make sure that it spins freely. Inspect the fins as well to make sure there is no damage. Sorry but that the best advice I got.
@@importmodify I got yt shorts if you want to see also I run no intake
what radiator do you have ?
Ebay brand. I searched srt4 radiator and found it.
You have more fight than that SRT has brother.