I just picked up a 1973 Contessa 26. Why do you do the core replacement from underneath instead from the top? Is there a benefit to this approach for the 26?
Congratulations on buying a legendary boat! I did the core replacement from beneath because it’s much thinner fiberglass below and easier to fiberglass back on. Of course there’s also the fiberglass liner that you’ll need to cut open and then fiberglass back on the same way, then fair with fairing compound, and finally paint. You could, of course, do it from the top, but ask yourself if it really needs to be done in the first place. The top layer of fiberglass is relatively thick, so unless you’re decks are spongy, you probably don’t need to. I only did a small area around my chain plates and it probably didn’t really need it in the end.
@@EpoxyAndButylTape I know there is some delamination on the foredeck. It's not spongy but I can hear it move a little bit. I was confused at first because I've read some things that said the Contessa 26 has a solid fiberglass deck. But then found an article on co26 that explained the deck situation of the Contessa 26. This is my first sailboat so all of this is new to me. I really appreciate your channel.
The ones built in the UK were solid fiberglass decks. Although there are a couple of very early, Canadian built ones that have also solid fiberglass decks. Otherwise all Canadian built Contessa 26’s are wood cored. Most are plywood, but there are a few areas that may be end-grain balsa, such as around my chain plates. A little creaking is ok, but if you’re dealing with extensive delamination, you should drill a test hole to check to see if the wood is wet. If dry, all you need to do is inject some epoxy into a few holes drilled through the top layer to “reglue” the top layer of fiberglass to the wood core. Then put something heavy on it until it sets up and finish it off by painting or gel coating the holes.
I just picked up a 1973 Contessa 26. Why do you do the core replacement from underneath instead from the top? Is there a benefit to this approach for the 26?
Congratulations on buying a legendary boat!
I did the core replacement from beneath because it’s much thinner fiberglass below and easier to fiberglass back on. Of course there’s also the fiberglass liner that you’ll need to cut open and then fiberglass back on the same way, then fair with fairing compound, and finally paint.
You could, of course, do it from the top, but ask yourself if it really needs to be done in the first place. The top layer of fiberglass is relatively thick, so unless you’re decks are spongy, you probably don’t need to. I only did a small area around my chain plates and it probably didn’t really need it in the end.
@@EpoxyAndButylTape I know there is some delamination on the foredeck. It's not spongy but I can hear it move a little bit. I was confused at first because I've read some things that said the Contessa 26 has a solid fiberglass deck. But then found an article on co26 that explained the deck situation of the Contessa 26. This is my first sailboat so all of this is new to me. I really appreciate your channel.
The ones built in the UK were solid fiberglass decks. Although there are a couple of very early, Canadian built ones that have also solid fiberglass decks. Otherwise all Canadian built Contessa 26’s are wood cored. Most are plywood, but there are a few areas that may be end-grain balsa, such as around my chain plates.
A little creaking is ok, but if you’re dealing with extensive delamination, you should drill a test hole to check to see if the wood is wet. If dry, all you need to do is inject some epoxy into a few holes drilled through the top layer to “reglue” the top layer of fiberglass to the wood core. Then put something heavy on it until it sets up and finish it off by painting or gel coating the holes.
ICEBOX! I think we all know what you meant. Great work as always.
That inlay looks great! Love to see it.