Not many TH-cam creators are worth subscribing but you are exceptional. The topics (at least to me) peak my interest and are well plus throughly explained. I always learn something practical. Keep inspiring.
Maverick PT Well, it’s not like I’m going to use them for production. For one or two PCBs, it’s usually cheaper, because you don’t need 10 of them for prototypes, and it’s much faster, which allows you to advance in your project. Not to mention what happens if you screw up... That happened to GreatScott! once, and he gave up on the DIY or Buy!
@@GRBtutorials In that you're correct but I like to have a proper PCB on my final versions of my projects. It brings the overall quality up. Different tools for different ends right? PS: You can order just 5
I love that you are acheiving the same thing with a microcontroller and with discrete components. It's really interesting to see how to replicate a seemingly complex project with these discrete components.
There's absolutely no need to hit that notification bell my friend because I always know that you always upload videos on Sunday... Every Sunday evening I open TH-cam app and voila there is your video on top of my feed. Now I've no connections with electronic/electronics but man I like watching your videos. Love from India... Keep up your great work GreatScott
i always wait for his last moment expression " and i wiiiiill seeeee youuu next timmmme " ... your videos are such a help, though a bit advanced to understand.
The final circuit diagram has a connection from between the two N Channel MOSFETs to GND. That connection was not in the initial diagram at about 7:15 into the video. Does that circuit then not connect AC Live through the load to GND and AC Neutral straight to GND. Perhaps GND is not Earth which would imply Earth leakage and thus trip an RCD? I think that's how and RCD trips, if the current going into Live doesn't come out the Neutral it must be leaking to Earth and thus trips. I'm sure your circuit is probably correct, but why is it correct? Even if you're only connecting AC Live to the ground reference of your DC Circuit it still seems a bad idea? What am I missing?
It's outlined in the FL5150 datasheet on how the different configurations work. Mainly, GND is a floating reference for the FL5150 so it can do things like measure voltage drop across the MOSFETS to monitor current limits and siphon energy for itself from the AC line to charge itself with a DC bias to neutral. If neutral wasn't available, they would have to use chassis ground. Neutral is also used as the zero-crossing reference to monitor when to switch. This circuit only switches the hot line. It doesn't do any control with neutral besides monitoring the zero crossing. When Great Scott attached two terminal blocks to connect two neutrals, that is purely for convenience so that he doesn't need to use an in-line crimp connector or solder and heat shrink to connect the load's neutral connection to the neutral coming from a power socket.
If you're a maker, every maker has to go through a design that when connected to mains power, goes kaboom to become a real maker. It's like the coming of age for us.
Honestly, with the cheap prices of these chargers on eBay, Aliexpress, etc. it wouldn't be worth the hassle to get the windings just right. Not even considering the prices of the individual parts.
I built some dimming circuits following the ideas in here, it all works but getting it certified to install in an actual house is a different matter. I ended up building a low voltage control module to work with a certified 0-10v dimmer such as Finder 15.11
Great Scott! Finally a useful ad! Downloading “my measures” right now! Hope it’s half as good and useful as this channel’s content... Thanks for these videos! Very interesting and easily understood tidbits of EE. With plenty of details.
Hi, I wanted to know what is the point of using an optocoupler (U5) in the ATTiny version? The ground is common between the two sides and therefore the logic circuit is either riding on the neutral wire (not very safe) or on the live wire (well, not safe at all)
Thank god someone here is paying attention!! Everyone needs to read this!! This a terrible designed circuit! Use a photovoltaic MOSFET driver like a VOM1271T for the love of god. It will fully isolate the high from low voltage with no tie to GND. Also the MOSFET choice here is crappy. RDSOn of .85 ohms? At 60v, half the the waveform, you are expelling a lot of energy as heat! Also from Vishay, SUD80460E-GE3, something like RDSOn of .0447. That would be a lot better just to start!
I have a little doubt on the schematic front. How is the ground connected to the midpoint of both the MOSFETs? Won't it destroy the circuit as mains supply flow through that point.
This is why I still use incandescent bulbs. I have over a dozen dimmers in my home controlling upwards of 60 bulbs. Over 40 are in the basement alone on six different switches. I tried numerous brands of LEDs over the years and they all have different cutoff voltages. Some will dim great while others on the circuit go out entirely or are brighter than the others. Back in 2016, I bought over 1,800 60 Watt bulbs which should last over 20 years.
@@talesmaschio -- Probably only down 40 or 50 by now. Still have close to what started with. Was a really stupid idea. Basically I heard they were "gonna ban the bulb" and I freaked out and overbought. ¯\_(ツ)_/¯
@@pmgodfrey I don’t see it as a stupid ideia. What impressed me at first was how many you bought at once. Anyway, you made a decision based on info you had at the time. Also, LED lights used to be very high quality, today most manufacturers make cost oriented pieces of crap which main function is to quickly turn into electronic waste. Your incandescent bulbs may consume a bit more energy but they show a much nicer color temperature and impose zero harmonic distortion to the electric grid. So, you’re not that wrong.
@@talesmaschio -- One of the biggest issues is how well they dim. Since most are built with low cost components, you can't expect much from a switch mode power supply, especially when they have such a wide operating voltage range. So they dim to a certain point and then some go out, others don't. Plus ones I've used in our rentals seem to be of horrible quality. They're they basic ones you find at any Home Depot. Might have just been a bad batch because I have had a few here and there that still work from 10 years ago.
WOW - thanks for including normal mortals who can follow along - this used to be what is the word - pretty esoteric to say the least. Dedicated hobbyists only - and we never got cutting edge circuits - unlike Wozniak in the day (whose dad was an HP engineer.) So for most of us, we are looking how to spec an inexpensive effective dimmer, and not in parts for the hobbyist, so that we can quickly solve the issue and move on, unfortunately - time being limited. Now at least I can interpret dimmer schematics.
Incredible! JaguarTrials loves you Scott! Keep doing your thing and let us know if you need any Netflix or Hulu accounts for a giveaway to your subscribers!
Faster soldering method for SMT: Instead of adding solder when you add the parts. Apply solder to all of the pads first, than just place the part & reheat using an iron or hot air workstation. Use tweezers to place and hold the part when you solder.
Hi Ivan. Did you ever visit the JAL Website, see: justanotherlanguage.org/ ? I even made an Arduino like board so that you do not need a programmer to program it. See: www.instructables.com/id/JALPIC-One-Development-Board/
Yeah, they are trying to take a chunk out of the home etched PCB hobby market. The advantage of DIY is the speed of iterations, so they are deliberately marketing against the idea that they are too slow. If you want to etch your own board with all of the features they have on a board, 2x layers, through hole plating, vias, soldermask, and silkscreen, it will take you 3-4 days to make (or more), unless you have the space to keep all of this stuff setup and dialed for production. If you're ordering stuff like small quantities of Dupont Riston ~$20(x2 meters), Dynamask ~$15(x1 meter), and quality copper clad FR4, the price difference between keeping a fresh setup and just ordering a board with a $22 total becomes very competitive. I just make most designs single sided and DIY, but for larger stuff with a double design, the Chinese board houses are hard to beat. I would still recommend etching a few boards yourself though. I learned a ton from the experience, like make a paper and cardboard prototype of all of your boards before etching, or ordering anything. A paper/cardboard prototype with everything checked/attached/installed is priceless. Putting together all of the stuff to etch also adds up, takes up a good bit of space, means dealing with and storing hazardous chemicals etc. They just advertise the fast shipping because their biggest hurtle is how fast you can make your own boards at home. For instance, I made a LCD breakout board 2 days ago in just under 1hr, but I've been developing my setup and routine for a year now. -Jake
When I use filament light bulbs which doesnt have driver just capacitive dropper I always wire a switches to have one with capacitor which dims the bulb. It’s especially useful when you want to make a lamp that just lights like very old bulbs.
Which type of dimmer is more suitable and power efficient for inductive load such as fans? Also is it possible to drive single phase ac motor as energy saving dc inverter motor?
If I'm reading the FL5150 datasheet correctly, it has a built in 5V linear regulator that is used between pin 3 & 4 to select TE vs LE dimming. I wonder if that regulator could power a small microcontroller like an Raspberry Pico? The FL5150 can be controlled with a 0-10V signal, which again I'm assuming we can pull off the VS pin connected to the 17V shunt regulator. All this means we can control this over WiFi
Hi Love your video, and I'm with you on that ( it's just arrived but I can't wait to build it scenario), I've been there myself! Anyway I recently made my own dimmer but what I did was recitfy mains, step it down and ,P.W.M. Via a 4029 counter ended up with single push button control flipflop direction every alternate button push illumination levels remaining when I remove input, also has a back up battery, BUT BEWARE OF CONTACT BOUNCE use MAXIM'S switch debounce IC. Kind regards Warren
With a light sensor you can also measure how well a lamp (dimmed or otherwise is producing light... I use a s9067-01 from Hamamatsu with a bias supply and a resistor connected to my oscilloscope. Allows me to see the lux levels hitting sensor at high frequency to discover just how much of the light output is flickering and how much is smooth. Worst bulbs/led drivers I found has almost 100% flicker and not surprisingly the best have almost 0%. Most are unfortunately closer to the 100% range. Not fun if you are an epileptic.
Hey Scott, if you connect the terminal blocks to each other before soldering, they don't move as much when you screw the wires in. And look slightly more professional :)
You are a beautiful mind! 🤘🏼 Is it possible to buy a smart dimmer that can have smart bulbs attached to it that will not cause flicker in let’s say a multi bulb chandelier?
Love your videos.. but all examples show how to REPLACE an existing dimmer.. I can't replace mine.. what's the best way to convert from anti parallel scr to pwm?
I used to have a homemade dimmable AC LED LIGHT. It consisted of a simple inductor to limit the AC current, then a bridge, cap, and the LEDs themselves. It worked well, although it was a bit bulky. (Would still have it, except that I tripped and dropped it and it broke)
High scott tks for your explanation regarding your project. I bought one module SCR voltage regulator from internet and I will try to use it as a dimmer for LED lamp. Is it work or not. Need your help.
Very good Congratulations. I am an electrician and one of the major problems I face when using dimmers with led lamps is when I turn on more than three lamps on the same circuit. For some unknown reason, grouping multiple light bulbs always causes unwanted flicker during dimming. Any ideas on what causes this problem?
You know what would be an interesting tutorial? A guide to understanding technical electronics documents, and the vocabulary they contain. It could probably be turned into a series, where each episode teaches a concept behind the vocabulary. With a series like that, we wouldn't be so intimidated by the data sheets for electronic components.
is there a way to make this work with a touch dimmer module? I have been looking for a dimmer switch with a low, medium, high, and off, when you touch the lamp housing but the majority of the switches, don't support led bulbs or only support 40w, I'm looking at installing 60w.
Hello, i am a begginer in electronics. Is there any situation where I have to take in mind that electricity actually goes from the negative pole to the positive one? or can I always think of it as if it flew from positive to negative?
@@gman9275 Trying to teach someone about electricity and kicking off with an analogy using "entropy" is plain stupid, also irrespective of sign assignment it was simply the action of Benjamin Franklin rubbing wool against wax and noting what moved. The understanding of the structure and nature of an atom's composition was in its infancy and assumptions were made...simple.
Very nice little ic for that use! How exactly does the Mosfet output stage not short to "ground"? The hit terminal would be shorted to ground every time the get turned on, right?
Great video as usual!! I was reading the FL5150 data sheet it says it can be controlled by a microprocessor with a logic signal, what exact type of signal would that be because I, couldn't get PWM to work as yet?? And I don't think that is what it means anyway.
If leading edge dimming is done with the FL5150 circuit shown at 9:59 and you use it to dim a fan, won't it damage the MOSFETS because the fan is an inductive load?
Where do you know so much stuff about electronics that the internet often has no answer for? And how is it possible for the current to flow both ways trough two mosfets connected in opposite polarity in series? Don't mosfets have an internal diode that lets current flow only one way? and by connecting them in opposite polarity in series, perhaps the current should always be blocked by one of the internal diodes? And why do you have to use somekind of adapter at 8:48 ? isn't it possible without it?
Hi Scott. I assume you're aware, that the circuit with the ATTINY is not isolated from mains - it's ALL connected through GND. You could replace the 4N35 by a simple transistor, and have probably better switching behavior of the mosfets. I'm also wondering if R2 and R3 don't get hot (they have to dissipate approx. 1/2W on 230VAC) ...
With the ubiquity and improvement in LED lamp brightness, efficiency and life, isn't it time we dropped direct mains powered bulbs for SELV only ones and only SELV voltage control cables (5-12v max) in the walls? Far greater simplicity of multiple control from wall switches with easy to implement direct or WiFi control providing maximum flexibility and in a much easier to install and understand radial topology (UK anyway). Use of LSZH cat 5 or 6 control cable means greater safety in several respects. Then using PWM to vary brightness on the SELV power side very easily, cheaply and efficiently.
Not many TH-cam creators are worth subscribing but you are exceptional. The topics (at least to me) peak my interest and are well plus throughly explained. I always learn something practical.
Keep inspiring.
8:23 Only 2$ plus 20$ shipping
That's on the Fast Shipping option, I think it's UPS or one of those. The cheap china post is like 5€-7€ but you have to wait a month
Maverick PT Still better to make your own...
@@GRBtutorials For 8€? I doubt that you can achieve the quality at home when compared to JLCPCB. If you can wait, it's the best option by far
Maverick PT Well, it’s not like I’m going to use them for production. For one or two PCBs, it’s usually cheaper, because you don’t need 10 of them for prototypes, and it’s much faster, which allows you to advance in your project. Not to mention what happens if you screw up... That happened to GreatScott! once, and he gave up on the DIY or Buy!
@@GRBtutorials In that you're correct but I like to have a proper PCB on my final versions of my projects. It brings the overall quality up. Different tools for different ends right? PS: You can order just 5
You make all this black magic in our daily life understandable. Thanks so much!
This video's iteration of "and I will see you next time" was the most striking one so far.
I love that you are acheiving the same thing with a microcontroller and with discrete components. It's really interesting to see how to replicate a seemingly complex project with these discrete components.
Yes microcontrollers are overused
There's absolutely no need to hit that notification bell my friend because I always know that you always upload videos on Sunday...
Every Sunday evening I open TH-cam app and voila there is your video on top of my feed.
Now I've no connections with electronic/electronics but man I like watching your videos.
Love from India... Keep up your great work GreatScott
i always wait for his last moment expression " and i wiiiiill seeeee youuu next timmmme " ... your videos are such a help, though a bit advanced to understand.
The ATTiny dimmer is an interesting project on itself. Thank you!
Thank you so much for this video, I have been waiting so long for a comprehensive video on this subject. Keep up the great work!
Your voice is so calming. Great work, Great scot!
Hey Scott! Can you show us how works a Vacuum Fluorescent Displays? VFD, its a little bit old technology but looks still awesome ;)
I can put it on my to do list.
Here you go - th-cam.com/video/clUVEyi_YNM/w-d-xo.html
I thought VFD meant Variable Frequency Drive. For 3 phase motors
"... and i will see you next time!" LOL! gets better every video.
like a commercial jingle. lol. wait...
Another great video Scott. This was an enjoyable watch. Thank you for showing a commercial version and your version.
8:23 hahaha, when the shipping cost almost ten times than the product, very relatable.
will try to do it at home and see the cost
also if you order more you will pay same shipping ;)
yes but its comparitvely cheaper than going to china;)
You are great teacher in the world.
I always wait for your next video.
Thanks sir.
The final circuit diagram has a connection from between the two N Channel MOSFETs to GND. That connection was not in the initial diagram at about 7:15 into the video. Does that circuit then not connect AC Live through the load to GND and AC Neutral straight to GND. Perhaps GND is not Earth which would imply Earth leakage and thus trip an RCD? I think that's how and RCD trips, if the current going into Live doesn't come out the Neutral it must be leaking to Earth and thus trips.
I'm sure your circuit is probably correct, but why is it correct? Even if you're only connecting AC Live to the ground reference of your DC Circuit it still seems a bad idea? What am I missing?
It's outlined in the FL5150 datasheet on how the different configurations work. Mainly, GND is a floating reference for the FL5150 so it can do things like measure voltage drop across the MOSFETS to monitor current limits and siphon energy for itself from the AC line to charge itself with a DC bias to neutral. If neutral wasn't available, they would have to use chassis ground. Neutral is also used as the zero-crossing reference to monitor when to switch. This circuit only switches the hot line. It doesn't do any control with neutral besides monitoring the zero crossing. When Great Scott attached two terminal blocks to connect two neutrals, that is purely for convenience so that he doesn't need to use an in-line crimp connector or solder and heat shrink to connect the load's neutral connection to the neutral coming from a power socket.
I needed this video badly as I was trying this from your previous video ....and one thing I understood that I will stay from mains power
If you're a maker, every maker has to go through a design that when connected to mains power, goes kaboom to become a real maker. It's like the coming of age for us.
Thanks GreatScott, I was researching on FL5150 and u made it.
Me too, with ESP8266/32 will be perfect, no more ZC loop to care about
@@youcefasb6293 Rolling average is easy to implement to filter out ZC
Videovorschlag: DIY or BUY:
Qi Charger (wireless charger)
Would love to see this!!!
Honestly, with the cheap prices of these chargers on eBay, Aliexpress, etc. it wouldn't be worth the hassle to get the windings just right. Not even considering the prices of the individual parts.
I built some dimming circuits following the ideas in here, it all works but getting it certified to install in an actual house is a different matter.
I ended up building a low voltage control module to work with a certified 0-10v dimmer such as Finder 15.11
Great Scott! Finally a useful ad! Downloading “my measures” right now! Hope it’s half as good and useful as this channel’s content... Thanks for these videos! Very interesting and easily understood tidbits of EE. With plenty of details.
you go to so much effort in your videos, extremely professional and educational
Hi, I wanted to know what is the point of using an optocoupler (U5) in the ATTiny version? The ground is common between the two sides and therefore the logic circuit is either riding on the neutral wire (not very safe) or on the live wire (well, not safe at all)
This worries me too. Mains goes to 12v circuit =\
Thank god someone here is paying attention!! Everyone needs to read this!! This a terrible designed circuit! Use a photovoltaic MOSFET driver like a VOM1271T for the love of god. It will fully isolate the high from low voltage with no tie to GND. Also the MOSFET choice here is crappy. RDSOn of .85 ohms? At 60v, half the the waveform, you are expelling a lot of energy as heat! Also from Vishay, SUD80460E-GE3, something like RDSOn of .0447. That would be a lot better just to start!
OH MY GOD! Great video with a nice ending (and I will see you next time), such big information can't get into my brain, they are all useful, thanks!
I have a little doubt on the schematic front. How is the ground connected to the midpoint of both the MOSFETs? Won't it destroy the circuit as mains supply flow through that point.
This is why I still use incandescent bulbs. I have over a dozen dimmers in my home controlling upwards of 60 bulbs. Over 40 are in the basement alone on six different switches. I tried numerous brands of LEDs over the years and they all have different cutoff voltages. Some will dim great while others on the circuit go out entirely or are brighter than the others. Back in 2016, I bought over 1,800 60 Watt bulbs which should last over 20 years.
1800 bulbs? HAHAHA!! Awesome! How many do you still have today (march/23)?
@@talesmaschio -- Probably only down 40 or 50 by now. Still have close to what started with. Was a really stupid idea. Basically I heard they were "gonna ban the bulb" and I freaked out and overbought. ¯\_(ツ)_/¯
@@pmgodfrey I don’t see it as a stupid ideia. What impressed me at first was how many you bought at once. Anyway, you made a decision based on info you had at the time. Also, LED lights used to be very high quality, today most manufacturers make cost oriented pieces of crap which main function is to quickly turn into electronic waste. Your incandescent bulbs may consume a bit more energy but they show a much nicer color temperature and impose zero harmonic distortion to the electric grid. So, you’re not that wrong.
@@talesmaschio -- One of the biggest issues is how well they dim. Since most are built with low cost components, you can't expect much from a switch mode power supply, especially when they have such a wide operating voltage range. So they dim to a certain point and then some go out, others don't. Plus ones I've used in our rentals seem to be of horrible quality. They're they basic ones you find at any Home Depot. Might have just been a bad batch because I have had a few here and there that still work from 10 years ago.
Hey great Scott....you deserve even more fancier intro!!!!!
WOW - thanks for including normal mortals who can follow along - this used to be what is the word - pretty esoteric to say the least. Dedicated hobbyists only - and we never got cutting edge circuits - unlike Wozniak in the day (whose dad was an HP engineer.)
So for most of us, we are looking how to spec an inexpensive effective dimmer, and not in parts for the hobbyist, so that we can quickly solve the issue and move on, unfortunately - time being limited. Now at least I can interpret dimmer schematics.
After a long time . good to see you again
Great Scott!! Another amazingly entertaining and educational video! Thank you for all the top notch quality content 😊
Incredible! JaguarTrials loves you Scott! Keep doing your thing and let us know if you need any Netflix or Hulu accounts for a giveaway to your subscribers!
The video we’ve been waiting for! Thank you!
i always get to learn many things from your channel!!
Thanks again Scott! Its very inspiring for my lab! I'll show this to my students!
Faster soldering method for SMT: Instead of adding solder when you add the parts. Apply solder to all of the pads first, than just place the part & reheat using an iron or hot air workstation. Use tweezers to place and hold the part when you solder.
I do this with 603 parts that have 8 leads. It works! A little bumpy sometimes, but yeah!
A video on programming PIC microcontrollers would be awesome, especially as there's so little on TH-cam. Thanks!
Hi Ivan. Did you ever visit the JAL Website, see: justanotherlanguage.org/ ?
I even made an Arduino like board so that you do not need a programmer to program it. See: www.instructables.com/id/JALPIC-One-Development-Board/
Thanks!!! next time try to use DC coupled in the oscilloscope, for 50 and 60 hz and AC for more than 100 hz. Cheers
8:23
$2 PCB.
$19.36 shipping.
wesmart.png
20$ is the 48h shipping i believe, you can get cheaper options but it just takes longer.
since he is sponsored by jlcpcb he doesn't care :D
Yeah, they are trying to take a chunk out of the home etched PCB hobby market. The advantage of DIY is the speed of iterations, so they are deliberately marketing against the idea that they are too slow. If you want to etch your own board with all of the features they have on a board, 2x layers, through hole plating, vias, soldermask, and silkscreen, it will take you 3-4 days to make (or more), unless you have the space to keep all of this stuff setup and dialed for production. If you're ordering stuff like small quantities of Dupont Riston ~$20(x2 meters), Dynamask ~$15(x1 meter), and quality copper clad FR4, the price difference between keeping a fresh setup and just ordering a board with a $22 total becomes very competitive. I just make most designs single sided and DIY, but for larger stuff with a double design, the Chinese board houses are hard to beat. I would still recommend etching a few boards yourself though. I learned a ton from the experience, like make a paper and cardboard prototype of all of your boards before etching, or ordering anything. A paper/cardboard prototype with everything checked/attached/installed is priceless. Putting together all of the stuff to etch also adds up, takes up a good bit of space, means dealing with and storing hazardous chemicals etc.
They just advertise the fast shipping because their biggest hurtle is how fast you can make your own boards at home. For instance, I made a LCD breakout board 2 days ago in just under 1hr, but I've been developing my setup and routine for a year now.
-Jake
If you consider you're getting 10 pbcs, it's still very close to a $2 pbc.
Hey Guys, I am just pointing at the irony. I am not telling it is not worth it.
This video answering my big question of RobotDyn AC dimmer stay flickering when setted up power in 5%. Thanks!
When I use filament light bulbs which doesnt have driver just capacitive dropper I always wire a switches to have one with capacitor which dims the bulb. It’s especially useful when you want to make a lamp that just lights like very old bulbs.
Thank you for following up with this! Simply incredible!
Thx GreatScott for guiding us about every electrical experiment
Your Channel is the best.
Like this comment if you agree
peace
Hi, nice video.
Used a standard triac to dimm one 5W LED spot, never had issues with hold current.
Which type of dimmer is more suitable and power efficient for inductive load such as fans? Also is it possible to drive single phase ac motor as energy saving dc inverter motor?
Beatifully made and informative video, as always!
Great video
But can we use the same circuit to drive 2 different load with 2 optocoupler ?
Very helpful video. I like it 👍
Electroboom viewers like here
Both these channels are my favorites. They are the real and genuine guys that everyone should watch.
full bridge rectifieeeeeeEERRR
@@hmangaihzualatlau468 Yeah he's very funny😂.
Except Scott doesn't hurt himself on a regular basis.
@@geographicaloddity2 Yeah.Mr. Mehdi would be the person who survived the most electric shocks ever in this world😂😅. Some are jumpscaring ones😅
When you see the GreatScott intro:
Ah shit, here we go again.
If I'm reading the FL5150 datasheet correctly, it has a built in 5V linear regulator that is used between pin 3 & 4 to select TE vs LE dimming. I wonder if that regulator could power a small microcontroller like an Raspberry Pico? The FL5150 can be controlled with a 0-10V signal, which again I'm assuming we can pull off the VS pin connected to the 17V shunt regulator. All this means we can control this over WiFi
Hi Love your video, and I'm with you on that ( it's just arrived but I can't wait to build it scenario), I've been there myself!
Anyway I recently made my own dimmer but what I did was recitfy mains, step it down and ,P.W.M.
Via a 4029 counter ended up with single push button control flipflop direction every alternate button push illumination levels remaining when I remove input, also has a back up battery, BUT BEWARE OF CONTACT BOUNCE use MAXIM'S switch debounce IC.
Kind regards Warren
With a light sensor you can also measure how well a lamp (dimmed or otherwise is producing light...
I use a s9067-01 from Hamamatsu with a bias supply and a resistor connected to my oscilloscope. Allows me to see the lux levels hitting sensor at high frequency to discover just how much of the light output is flickering and how much is smooth.
Worst bulbs/led drivers I found has almost 100% flicker and not surprisingly the best have almost 0%.
Most are unfortunately closer to the 100% range. Not fun if you are an epileptic.
Hey Scott, if you connect the terminal blocks to each other before soldering, they don't move as much when you screw the wires in. And look slightly more professional :)
Stay creative and I will seeeeeeeeeeeeeeeee youuuuuuuuuuu nextttttt time❤️❤️❤️
You are a beautiful mind! 🤘🏼
Is it possible to buy a smart dimmer that can have smart bulbs attached to it that will not cause flicker in let’s say a multi bulb chandelier?
Love your videos.. but all examples show how to REPLACE an existing dimmer.. I can't replace mine.. what's the best way to convert from anti parallel scr to pwm?
Lots of things learnt from you sir...
This is the missing part of my project. Thanks great scott!!!
Hey scott i just create a drimmer, using two half brige IGBT and a variable duty cicle n555 arrangement, swiching at 5khz.
Das ist gut video, great explanation and illustration.
why R2 and R3 have to be equal at scheme in 8:09 ? and why they have to be 47k?
I used to have a homemade dimmable AC LED LIGHT. It consisted of a simple inductor to limit the AC current, then a bridge, cap, and the LEDs themselves. It worked well, although it was a bit bulky. (Would still have it, except that I tripped and dropped it and it broke)
Why the FL5150 Supply is being driven from single diode on Neutral?
Datasheet shows 2 diodes from Live and Load for 50Hz version.
Pretty fantastic job, dude!!! 😃
High scott tks for your explanation regarding your project. I bought one module SCR voltage regulator from internet and I will try to use it as a dimmer for LED lamp. Is it work or not. Need your help.
You are now become my inspiration and might be for other electronics students...plz do give some suggestions and motivation tips for beginners....
Studying EE won't get you laid.
Hi Scott, Just to clarify I would be using your squair boartd with FL5150 chip
Thanks you kindly Kazem
plz make video on simple Variable Frequency Driver circuit
Those are basically higher voltage tolerable version of an 'ESC'.
very enlightening as always
Great video, thank you.
Thanks , your videos are always inspiration for me and thats why i need a help in choosing original 18650 vs fake.
Great video...learnt many things
Very good Congratulations. I am an electrician and one of the major problems I face when using dimmers with led lamps is when I turn on more than three lamps on the same circuit. For some unknown reason, grouping multiple light bulbs always causes unwanted flicker during dimming. Any ideas on what causes this problem?
Hi Jeremy! AKA Scott. Can you explain how an Nixie tube works with it's schematic?
I can put it on my to do list.
AKA 😂😂😂
You know what would be an interesting tutorial? A guide to understanding technical electronics documents, and the vocabulary they contain. It could probably be turned into a series, where each episode teaches a concept behind the vocabulary. With a series like that, we wouldn't be so intimidated by the data sheets for electronic components.
Scott is very cool and a bit high voltage as well. 💥💥💥 💟
your amazing GREATSCOTT👍👌
is there a way to make this work with a touch dimmer module? I have been looking for a dimmer switch with a low, medium, high, and off, when you touch the lamp housing but the majority of the switches, don't support led bulbs or only support 40w, I'm looking at installing 60w.
Hello, i am a begginer in electronics.
Is there any situation where I have to take in mind that electricity actually goes from the negative pole to the positive one? or can I always think of it as if it flew from positive to negative?
If your a beginner then just forget about it for now and enjoy the hobby.
@@gman9275 Trying to teach someone about electricity and kicking off with an analogy using "entropy" is plain stupid, also irrespective of sign assignment it was simply the action of Benjamin Franklin rubbing wool against wax and noting what moved. The understanding of the structure and nature of an atom's composition was in its infancy and assumptions were made...simple.
Very nice little ic for that use! How exactly does the Mosfet output stage not short to "ground"? The hit terminal would be shorted to ground every time the get turned on, right?
Interesting !! as usual . What about inductive loads like an AC FAN ? it would be Humming ?
hi sir by this circuit can we dim all non dimmable led bulbs
thanks in advance.
Love the auto captions: "at which point the bulb behind to flicker" becomes "at which point the Pope begins to flicker"
i don't understnad. Circuit in the end can it dim n0n-dimmable led bulbs>?
no it cant dim a non dim-able led bulb
GREATSCOTT!
Can you make a 7 segment display clock using only logic gates and no microcontroller?
its ez men, lots wiring on the internet tho
Great video as usual!! I was reading the FL5150 data sheet it says it can be controlled by a microprocessor with a logic signal, what exact type of signal would that be because I, couldn't get PWM to work as yet?? And I don't think that is what it means anyway.
If leading edge dimming is done with the FL5150 circuit shown at 9:59 and you use it to dim a fan, won't it damage the MOSFETS because the fan is an inductive load?
Great Video, as usual Scott is a pro. Can you please tell me why you have 2 series potentiometers on the last design?
Just try with a fan regulator and see the results. I hope you can dim your light accurately. And it will work.
This is nice! Can you please show us how to make a LED dimmer controller that uses PWM not a potentiometer to control the dimming please?
this guy : made a tutorial on how to make a dimmer
some chinese dude :
我看到了钱
Do the chinese characters mean "its free real estate"
Excellent video! Thank you for share.
I would like to know if you still using the IRF840 on the las PCB with de FL5150?
The capacitors you recommend don't seem to be rated for high voltage. C3 (4uF7) would be subject to upwards of 100V?
Where do you know so much stuff about electronics that the internet often has no answer for? And how is it possible for the current to flow both ways trough two mosfets connected in opposite polarity in series? Don't mosfets have an internal diode that lets current flow only one way? and by connecting them in opposite polarity in series, perhaps the current should always be blocked by one of the internal diodes? And why do you have to use somekind of adapter at 8:48 ? isn't it possible without it?
Hi Scott. I assume you're aware, that the circuit with the ATTINY is not isolated from mains - it's ALL connected through GND. You could replace the 4N35 by a simple transistor, and have probably better switching behavior of the mosfets. I'm also wondering if R2 and R3 don't get hot (they have to dissipate approx. 1/2W on 230VAC) ...
can we get an updated link for the resistor and capcitor kits pls
Great project ! I just ordered the PCBs. Any idea what's the max power could be driven ? I have a 40W LED lamp. It is fine ?
Thanks! Won't be using JLCPCB though.
With the ubiquity and improvement in LED lamp brightness, efficiency and life, isn't it time we dropped direct mains powered bulbs for SELV only ones and only SELV voltage control cables (5-12v max) in the walls?
Far greater simplicity of multiple control from wall switches with easy to implement direct or WiFi control providing maximum flexibility and in a much easier to install and understand radial topology (UK anyway). Use of LSZH cat 5 or 6 control cable means greater safety in several respects. Then using PWM to vary brightness on the SELV power side very easily, cheaply and efficiently.
Great video, thanks for putting together. I like the pens you're using. Do you mind letting us know which ones are in the video? Thanks!