This is a good tutorial, provided you use the TH-cam settings to slow the speed down to 0.5x or less, and turn off the sound. Beware of the "private" TH-cam tutorials - some of them have significant problems.
Excellent ! Worked nicely on all my reflector scopes (RC & SCT), after some time spent to digest what exactly needs to be done & when. The price is right too.
The software is kinda buggy and crashes a lot, but the device itself is something I cannot live without anymore. It's greatest advantage is that the sensor is perfectly centered in relation to the camera body and 1.25" adapter which is vital to precise collimation in comparison to simple webcams many other astro people use for collimation. I now get perfect ultra sharp stars in my astrophotography.
This is good for course alignment. Personally I would use a Catseye autocollimator with the extra offset pupil for the final adjustments if you have a fast reflector for imaging. Any reflector below an f/5 or f/4 would have a tiny "sweet spot" measured in millimeters or fractions of millimeters and any misscollimation will quickly degrade the image. The tolerance is even less when adding a coma corrector. All that said, this tool is promising for its ability to shorten overall collimation time and procedures, provided the camera in it is properly collimated, the fit in the focuser draw tube tight, centerd, and the focuser axis is adjusted correctly. It's hard to beat the double pupil peepholes and the mirror inside the autocollimator that gives you all those reflections, with the added advantage of the offset pupil hole to show you the extra, fainter reflections of your senter spot. The use of a triangle or even better the "hot spot" radiation symbol center spot that can be ordered with Catseye collimation tools, give you a nice interlocking pattern of radiation symbols and their inverted reflections to get near perfect collimation.
To understand this, mute sound and play at half speed. Here is my understanding for aligning the secondary mirror on Newtonian (which is the most complex bit): Red circle - fit to primary mirror (PM). Green circle - fit to secondary mirror.(SM). A=screw nearest focuser. (B,C)=screws furthest from focuser. Centre bolt fixing mirror holder to spider boss, Orientate the OCAL so image of holder stalk points vertically down on the screen. Step 1. Match red to primary. Left-right motion: Rotate SM about centre bolt (clock/anticlock) Up-down motion: Loosen A and tighten both (B,C) together or vice versa. Step 2. Match green to secondary. Left-right motion: Loosen B, tighten C or vice versa. Up-down motion: Loosen A,B.C by same amount and tighten centre bolt, or vice versa. At each stage tune circle sizes to better match each mirror (Red P,M Green SM). Repeat 1-2 until everything concentric. The other bits about setting things up and aligning primary mirror are clear from the video. I hope I got that right ?
Before collimating check your focuser is 90degrees to ota , don’t assume the ota is perfectly round , no amount of collimating will correct this ,a simple only once only check you’ll ever need to do
anyone know how the position of the focuser so that can do the adjustment ? all in or all out or is the lenght of your camera position ? manual didnt mention anything on it ..... thanks
I don’t understand where you are talking about the misalignment. This is an F4 Newtonian reflector. The red circle, the green circle and the blue circle are all aligned. If it is an F2.8 Newtonian reflector, it may need to be discussed separately. Only under certain conditions, the red circle and the green circle will be aligned
This is your instructional video? I was thinking about buying your product but I couldn't face watching this video again to figure out how to use it. The jungle sounds and music are not helpful. A human voice describing the procedure would be helpful. As would on screen menus that are large enough to be readable.
This is a good tutorial, provided you use the TH-cam settings to slow the speed down to 0.5x or less, and turn off the sound. Beware of the "private" TH-cam tutorials - some of them have significant problems.
Excellent ! Worked nicely on all my reflector scopes (RC & SCT), after some time spent to digest what exactly needs to be done & when. The price is right too.
The software is kinda buggy and crashes a lot, but the device itself is something I cannot live without anymore. It's greatest advantage is that the sensor is perfectly centered in relation to the camera body and 1.25" adapter which is vital to precise collimation in comparison to simple webcams many other astro people use for collimation. I now get perfect ultra sharp stars in my astrophotography.
This is good for course alignment. Personally I would use a Catseye autocollimator with the extra offset pupil for the final adjustments if you have a fast reflector for imaging. Any reflector below an f/5 or f/4 would have a tiny "sweet spot" measured in millimeters or fractions of millimeters and any misscollimation will quickly degrade the image. The tolerance is even less when adding a coma corrector. All that said, this tool is promising for its ability to shorten overall collimation time and procedures, provided the camera in it is properly collimated, the fit in the focuser draw tube tight, centerd, and the focuser axis is adjusted correctly. It's hard to beat the double pupil peepholes and the mirror inside the autocollimator that gives you all those reflections, with the added advantage of the offset pupil hole to show you the extra, fainter reflections of your senter spot. The use of a triangle or even better the "hot spot" radiation symbol center spot that can be ordered with Catseye collimation tools, give you a nice interlocking pattern of radiation symbols and their inverted reflections to get near perfect collimation.
To understand this, mute sound and play at half speed.
Here is my understanding for aligning the secondary mirror on Newtonian (which is the most complex bit):
Red circle - fit to primary mirror (PM).
Green circle - fit to secondary mirror.(SM).
A=screw nearest focuser. (B,C)=screws furthest from focuser.
Centre bolt fixing mirror holder to spider boss,
Orientate the OCAL so image of holder stalk points vertically down on the screen.
Step 1. Match red to primary.
Left-right motion: Rotate SM about centre bolt (clock/anticlock)
Up-down motion: Loosen A and tighten both (B,C) together or vice versa.
Step 2. Match green to secondary.
Left-right motion: Loosen B, tighten C or vice versa.
Up-down motion: Loosen A,B.C by same amount and tighten centre bolt, or vice versa.
At each stage tune circle sizes to better match each mirror (Red P,M Green SM).
Repeat 1-2 until everything concentric.
The other bits about setting things up and aligning primary mirror are clear from the video.
I hope I got that right ?
The music is pleasant enough. But those damn synthetic bird tweets!
Before collimating check your focuser is 90degrees to ota , don’t assume the ota is perfectly round , no amount of collimating will correct this ,a simple only once only check you’ll ever need to do
Is the sound of that bird intended to chase away people who don't really need to watch the video? Thank heaven for mute.
Very helpful video.
The subtitles are too fast it is even difficult to read them ... !!!!
But is it so important to be fast even doing these things ?!
Thank you! Any tutorial on how to collimate RC scope?
You can add our whatsapp, let’s discuss together, contact us on the official website
For background music you select a solemn requiem funeral dirge interspersed with bird calls!?!? WTH??
That stinking bird noise!!!!!!!!!!
anyone know how the position of the focuser so that can do the adjustment ? all in or all out or is the lenght of your camera position ? manual didnt mention anything on it .....
thanks
excellent
The bird sounds. WHY?
Can this be used with a hyperstar?
In the last image not all circles aligned. Is that a must?
Not all of the circles will be aligned due to the shape of the secondary mirror in a fast newtonian. That is fine.
I don’t understand where you are talking about the misalignment. This is an F4 Newtonian reflector. The red circle, the green circle and the blue circle are all aligned. If it is an F2.8 Newtonian reflector, it may need to be discussed separately. Only under certain conditions, the red circle and the green circle will be aligned
@@ocalworld2776 He means the black little circle is not exactly in the middle.
Can I calibrate May RASA as well?
I don’t have this test, so I can’t answer you
Didnt Come in focus with this on my ts10“F4 with Moonlite OAZ
And the video isnt near as Sharp as it is in youre Video .
Hi I have a C8 SCT Celestron, Can It work with a SCT ?
Yes, there are SCT tutorials in the video
Didnt Come in the focus with 8" F/4 and F/5 !
How to Select resolution. i can't select. OCAL version1.3 PC fix 3264x2448
The new version does not need to select the resolution anymore, the default is up to 3264X2448,
When will there be a LINUX version?
Wtf was that noise
qq un paut shooter le piaf svp?
This is your instructional video? I was thinking about buying your product but I couldn't face watching this video again to figure out how to use it. The jungle sounds and music are not helpful. A human voice describing the procedure would be helpful. As would on screen menus that are large enough to be readable.
That is the most obnoxious bird sound. Could not get past 2 minutes of your video. Unbelievable!!!
Ok ma non capisco gli animali della foresta ;-)
center calibration code? where is??? please add website address pleaseeeeee
www.ocalworld.com/en/