How is it possible that you get into such complicated stuff on your channel, explain it so in depth and professional , and the views are so low ? This channel should be on top of the youtube audio channels pyramid !
@@HexiBase I'm certain that your channel will grow tremendously. I've seen information and box designs on your channel which can't be seen ANYWHERE else on youtube! Keep up the quality work! Cheers !
I spent 30+ years in mobile audio and I've never heard anyone speak audio from a design engineer perspective. I could listen to you explain this type of stuff for hours.
The presentation level on this is insane. When you darkened some fs parameters to show off how other ones are linked and when you overlayed the frequency response of the single sub with the series/parallel subs by using a dotted line for the contrasting subs. Good stuff, really appreciated.
Holy crap, this just cleared up years of 'wtf?' about iso loadings. You drop such tight videos full of solid, practical knowledge for anybody messing with speaker design. Thanks for all the work!
Man you're English is better than most native English speakers where I am for real!!!!! Best video I've seen yet and makes me want to build another ISO group ✅
I know this is an old video but I don't care. I just wanted to say that I didn't understand anything you said. Not because of you, but because of my lack of knowledge in this field. I think I may have a new hobby thanks to you.
If I recall correctly, when I had *FOUR 12's* in an isobaric box (i.e., clam shell setup)... ...I hooked up both subwoofers inside the box with reverse polarity (i.e., positive to negative, and negative to positive) and the two subwoofers outside the box with normal polarity (i.e., positive to positive, and negative to negative) when bolting the subwoofers face to face (with a 3/4" wood ring in between the subs that I prefabbed myself) . In this configuration, they all worked together as a team and had a lot higher dB gain from 20Hz-60Hz running at 2ft³ per chamber for each pair (as it had a divider in the Dual 12" 4ft³ net volume box).
Of all the great @HexiBase videos this might be one of the best. So many wannabes talking BS, but so great to see at least some TH-camrs really understanding their business.
Same for the guys over at Tech Ingredients - AMAZING content low sub count. Then I thought about it and...well, it's useful information presented in a clear manner with professional grade production quality. There is no clickbait, no gimmicks, no drama, no anime goofy faced thumbnails, no silly mindless crap like "what happens if we plug this driver into the wall socket?!!! Lets find out!" so low subs. It's why we pay people who play with a ball 10's of millions of dollars and someone devoting their life finding a cure for cancer maybe...MAYBE a hundred grand a year. Unfortunately people like us are in the minority. Most want someone jumping up and down like a gorilla around a rented Lambo chanting mindless words like "It's everyday bro...it's everyday bro" Also, while he has low sub count, he's getting a decent view counts and that's what matters in the end for $$$.
Huge respect man! The things that you know about sound and how to engineer everything from scratch... I guess you dedicated your teenage to go through the nooks and cranys of how things work... Aaand, here we are! Learning things everyday!
Back in the 90's I had a Thunderbird with 8 kicker 8" iso. It had the low end of a 12" with the tightness of a 6" or 8" with plenty of volume. I was running 8 ohm subs all parallel off of a PPI pro mos 12. The box total was only 2.4 cf. Back then that was small and loud!! I loved building new boxes to try out. Learned a lot and if this channel was around then I would have saved a lot of headaches. Awesome job and thanks.
Yes, back in 92 I set up four fosgate series 1 twelves in a ported box in an isobaric configuration. Punch 150HD in stereo mode at two ohm per channel. Vehicle was a 1988 ford escort. Very small box in the hatch. Mcm goldline doors, rears and tweets ran off a Kenwood 920or 921,can't remember. It was a very impressive sounding set up. LA sound crossover. Kenwood head unit.
You touched on something at 6:20 that I tried to search a while back when I started to design a smallish tapped horn. You stated: "...as long as the mounting depth of the drivers doesn't exceed the the internal clearance". One of the biggest concerns I had with my design was the lack of room the driver had around it. I wasn't able to find any info about how much is room is actually needed behind the driver, so I decided to change the design slightly to give it a tad more space. Most tapped horns I found online are huge and the driver sits almost at the mouth of the horn, many times in a steep angle and the mouth is huge as well, so it's hardly an issue. In my build, a 6,5" driver is around 50cm deep inside the horn. Width of the horn is pretty tight fit, at around 7" and there's not that much room between the magnet and the outer wall. Making it any smaller seemed ludicrous. I just got it finished (still need to paint it) and I have tested it briefly and it is quite something in a small flat :D Need to find the time to set it up properly. Anyways, I was wondering if you knew any limits or have ever come across issues with too tight clearance in a tapped horn? What would even happen if it was or can it be? I have hard time trying to thing what actually happens if it was. If you have any ideas, I'd love to hear them. Love the channel. Lot of really well laid out info!
Yes! my thought's are it would be the same as the iso setup given the enclosure volume was doubled & not 3db below as shown but it would be nice if Pete could revisit this.
I have to say I like your Channel. And this is coming from a guy who knows this stuff also, so I mean this as a compliment. I started doing this back in the early 90s when I also got my MECP. And was doing high-end audio installation. I'm also one of those people who can't watch reality TV or all that other nonsense so enjoy watching stuff like this even if I already know it. Also I like that I can enjoy learn different tactics and or touch up on things that I forgotten over the years. Regardless I see too many channels that just recap the basics that everybody already knows. I've watched effuse your videos and I like your approach and the level of detail in which you explain things. I like the technical stuff. I don't like people that try to make their channels more interesting by cutting out the technical stuff and heading in a bunch of made-up nonsense, like all of a sudden you get into an argument with one of your guys type nonsense just a raise the drama effect.
I also forgot to add that I like the way you get into details and the use of all the T/S parameters, because it's more then just FS, Qts, & Fb, for most, & others will add F3 & EBP , meanwhile there are many more that are important, especially if you want top notch. Sure the above few will get you by if you just want a basic system that gives a little boom. But when you want that high quality system, then learning and applying all the parameters are needed
^ x2 - i',m ashamed to say 🙄 😏 But Pete only talks about cross section. It doesn't seem to change the line length it would seem. That might have help for my lat4est project which is a revision of a failed attempt at a Sundown E10 v3 th-cam.com/video/J92zJIDOi1Q/w-d-xo.html
Can we get a video from you on TS parameters? You're quite good an explaining things and I'd like your take on the various parameters from your perspective and in a practical sense.
The only two issues as far as I know (i'm still learning) are that T/S parameters are not a constant, and they change with different atmospheric conditions. Also, I don't know how solid a *Rule Of Thumb* of ... ported under 0.5 sealed 0.5 0 - whatever IB - over 0.7 ... is? This guy mounted his Dynaudio Esotar 1200 in an IB configuration, and they have a QTS of 0,34! www.diymobileaudio.com/forum/2064684-post523.html bit.ly/2U7Y3BA so ... Other than that, its a matter of; how accurate the manufactures published parameters are. Some are Ok, whilst other can be wildly off. worst example I saw was the JL Audio ZR800 CW 8" midbass (no longer in production) had/has a published QTS of 0.662, but yet the actual parameter was around than double that. www.diymobileaudio.com/forum/member-reviews-product-comparisons/173556-jl-audio-zr800-cw-8-midbass-objective-review.html With that being said, I think its important not to focus on a singular parameter like QTS or Xmax, at the expense of any and all other parameters. Anyway ... no doubt Pete will correct any false assertions 😭
Back in the late 80’s I experimented with a parallel setup once. Two Magnavox 8” woofers and original enclosure of one speaker. I guessed at opening of port ( just removed material from front baffle. Barely heard anything but made everything upstairs shake.Was in corner firing up.
Just found your channel today. So much great information that no one else seems to cover. Would love to see you do a video where you go through the design process for a scenario(or two!). From driver selection to enclosure design (like what order and the process of making that decision). Something like a home theater subwoofer, music subwoofer, or car audio subwoofer with of course some specific design criteria like space, extension, output, etc. Keep it coming!
“Twice the (Moving) Mass, Half the Vas” was a term I coined as a teenager in the 1990s when Isobaric made sense because manufacturers weren’t making drivers for smaller enclosures.
I've done hundreds of iso setups from 80s to now. My girl's box is a pair of 12s in 1.8 cubes with a 3", 18" long flared port tuned to ~29. Moves the winshield of her suv a 1/4" or more at 32Hz on 500W.
The old boys I've met over the years in my local car audio community always know far more than the young guys that just want bigger drivers and more power. It's what fascinates me enough to try to learn the science to build my own transmission lines and bandpasses.
Thank you for a very clear and informative video. I've been curious about the physics involved in isobarics for a long time. In this short presentation, you accelerated my learning curve to near vertical.
What makes this presentation possibly confusing is you can also have side by side woofers but wired in parallel, and you can also have clamshell isobaric but wired electrically in series (a pair of 4 ohm woofers as 8 ohms total for example). People watching this video might think you have to wire it as you show here but they really don't.
I like the frequency curve on that graph of the isobaric set-up. Now to figure out how i can do this with two giant 18" woofers in my little car. I got it in my head, but achieving it in person is another story. 😄👍👍
Was at a car show.....when ORIAN was on there top game. About 20yrs ago....lol. there was an ORIAN booth with a 90 something Toyota pickup with the extra cab and it had 10 10's in an isobaric configuration. That shit banged so dam hard. Never forget that build!!
I had an isobaric enclosure. One sub blew. I had a passive radiator in shop. So just to see what it would sound like I used it instead of second subwoofer I used it. It really surprised me and was louder than before
@@HexiBase yeah man, there was a fad over in England where all the kids were going iso in recommend volumes for a single driver... Everyone was destroying suspension components left right and centre lol. I did warn them lol xx
Thank you so much for this video. This mostly helped me work with parameters when you have two woofers in series. I couldn’t figure out the formula to change the parameters and this is laid out very easily.
There are some who focus on shiny expensive equipment rather than on acoustics. I think Pete does the latter rather well, and more importantly, he backs up his claims!
I love Hexi’s vids... been watching since the early days of him in his shop way back making boxes for customers coming from all over... seeing the design, the build process and even the fit and sometimes listen/measuring session.... al’a that crazy 4/12 confit in that Escalade/Chevy style big SUV he did I liked so much. To some they would probably want some laymen low connotation explanation to go along with his technical explanation in these vids but I think it evokes those interested to learn more. Like diving into Thiel Small Parameters accordingly. If you haven’t had the chance of seeing his wild box builds from back in the PWK days... I highly suggest finding those and some of those designs and builds were way beyond anything of their time... meaning the tech was there but no one was really tackling what it took to design and make tapered waveguides, T-Lines and aperiodic chambered boxes for the time... I remember Hexi getting hammered by quite a bit of his viewers and people of industry to release what software he used back then and come to find out if I recall.... it was his own design and maybe if I recall it was one of his projects for engineering school though don’t quote me on that but I think that’s what I remember him saying way back when he addressed the issue in a small snippet of one of his vids. Either way he has definitely contributed to the audio community as a whole... both automotive and hi-end/hi-fi home audio. For that I am thankful he continues.
wow. 🤯. would love to see more on the quad stack parallel enclosure. but with that said, single woofer enclosures for me (Kicker L7) and Bazooka tubes 4Life
This is way above my level of understanding however, I found the video interesting and informative for those who are looking to wire up subs. Cheers, mvh
most excellent video👍 i will watch all your videos about building my 4th order bandpass isobaric box before i cut any wood. i am wanting a true "sub"woofer setup with no extra bass above around 40hz, my main speakers take care of 45hz+(club bass i call it), my biggest problem is i can not find the t&s parameters for the "dcm replacement kx212" pair i got off ebay🤣😂🤣😂. i am after lower bass than the kx212 can go (25hz). i really wish i had a laptop or something to get winisd but i only have my phone. thank you for making these videos and helping the world understand a little better🙏✌️
You the Man! I've made an isobaric box w/ 12's. So tight, so clean. You can hear the bass notes. You essentially waste one driver & the power to drive it... In my case about 450 watts. But she was clean!!!!! I've gotten almost as clean w/ a 2nd backward driver w/o losing SPL. But an isobaric is the cleanest. You just power it by burning money.
I like you videos because of how informative they are. Even tho I might not understand all those numbers it's good to know how those numbers work and what they are .
Steve Irby challenged his engineers to create a single woofer with the TS parameters of two woofers in isobaric config, and the Solobaric was born. very cool design, not seen much anymore
Great video! Very informative. But... you stopped one point short of where I was hoping you'd go. I've asked this question in a couple of places. And, I've gotten two different answers... If the subs I'm using want a volume for one driver of "X", and I'm using an isobaric loading that lets me build a box sized at half that size - "X/2", what volume should I tune the port for? The effective size of the box (X) or the actual size of the box (X/2)? Thanks! You (as always) are The Man!
I want to build a t-line box for my van. At the end of the video you committed on isobaric loading a t-line cutting the waveguide cross section in half. It would be really cool if you could do a video on this and maybe other types of t-lines.
If you have a ported box with one sub that sounds OK And you buy 3 more matching subs, and another amp. Cut one more sub hole, and pair up the subs in Isobarik. On paper it will have the same response, and spl, but use twice the power. Will it sound tighter / better / faster with all those extra magents, and power?
Clamshell arrangement is my favorite for several reasons. 1) It is very simple to do 2) It doesn't decrease the volume of the box any more than would be with a single woofer mounted in it (since the 2nd woofer is outside of the box). 3) The amount of air between the woofers is minimized, thus making the coupling "tighter". 4) No special woodworking skills are needed. In fact, one of the simplest ways to make a good subwoofer of reasonable size is to use some old already made enclosure, mount 2 identical woofers in it this way (clamshell), and seal up the other holes (such as leave the midrange and tweeter in the box but either disconnect them or filter them out).
I was just thinking about my past subwoofer systems. I think it would have been 30-31 years ago when I built my first isobaric sub system. 2 15's in a 3.5 cubic foot ported box. For music I've never heard it matched for clean, smooth bass. Very accurate to 25 Hz.
I know this was from a year ago but it just popped up for me. I haven’t heard “isobaric” since the early 90s. I remember I had a set of MTX Terminators that were in a prefab box that was amazing. Wish I kept them as a collectors item
Keep up the awesome videos! Can't wait for that 4+ driver isobaric loading thing. I'm not building a damn thing but I love learning about it all. Maybe one day I'm gonna have to break out the power tools!
I had a dual isobaric once upon a time it was rather large and heavy 4x10" Seas P25REX 8 ohm 93 db spl wired in series/parallel which gave the amp a nice easy to manage 4ohm load in a sealed enclosure mounted with drivers facing away from each other (magnet to magnet) it appeared as a 2 driver system, it was the best sounding car subwoofer I've ever had. It sounded very clean and tight zero booming, very musical. Most subwoofer set ups back then were ported enclosures which I have never liked due to the boomy bass (which you could hear a mile away and not very musical) Mine on the other hand was more or less contained within the interior of the car (at loud enough volume believe me) I never liked to telegraph sound like most seem to do. I guess in hindsight I could have used a 2 driver set up but the Seas drivers I choose were only available in 8 ohm and I didn't want a 2 ohm load going to my amp. I was fascinated with Isobaric from the time I heard about it and was very pleased with the outcome. BTW the amp I used was only 300w bridged, now I see amps of over a kilowatt as standard subs rated 2-3k. I don't quite understand that thinking.
Speaking of 4 drivers in a row, the Polk Audio C4 from back in the day comes to mind. Utilizing two ported chambers, a sealed portion, and two sets of isobaric 6x9's. It was an impressive subwoofer for it's time. I'd like to see a video on passive radiators, since it's kind of making a comback for "compact" subwoofer enclosures.
What about series isobaric (clamshell)? For example, if someone gets a great deal on a pair of 4 ohm "car" woofers from his buddy and wants to make them into an isobaric subwoofer for his home theater and wants 8 ohms, he can make a series wired clamshell arrangement on the 2 woofers.
How is it possible that you get into such complicated stuff on your channel, explain it so in depth and professional , and the views are so low ? This channel should be on top of the youtube audio channels pyramid !
@@HexiBase I'm certain that your channel will grow tremendously. I've seen information and box designs on your channel which can't be seen ANYWHERE else on youtube! Keep up the quality work! Cheers !
Too complex maybe? 🤷♂️
I mean 300k views is a decent amount
@@HexiBase where do you learn this information? Is there a major you can study at universities
It's because these videos invoke thought process and the masses are used to having the thinking done for them.
I've been building speakers for 30+ years now, and this is the easiest, most concise explanation I've ever seen.
I spent 30+ years in mobile audio and I've never heard anyone speak audio from a design engineer perspective. I could listen to you explain this type of stuff for hours.
The presentation level on this is insane. When you darkened some fs parameters to show off how other ones are linked and when you overlayed the frequency response of the single sub with the series/parallel subs by using a dotted line for the contrasting subs. Good stuff, really appreciated.
I know some of those words
You have the best explanation on isobaric enclosure, nobody do isobaric enclosure anymore after the 80's.
Your graphics are some of the best I've seen. Super clean and informative.
Holy crap, this just cleared up years of 'wtf?' about iso loadings. You drop such tight videos full of solid, practical knowledge for anybody messing with speaker design. Thanks for all the work!
If you really care about audio and the science behind it. This guy's videos are the best I've seen.
Man you're English is better than most native English speakers where I am for real!!!!! Best video I've seen yet and makes me want to build another ISO group ✅
I know this is an old video but I don't care. I just wanted to say that I didn't understand anything you said. Not because of you, but because of my lack of knowledge in this field. I think I may have a new hobby thanks to you.
If I recall correctly, when I had *FOUR 12's* in an isobaric box (i.e., clam shell setup)... ...I hooked up both subwoofers inside the box with reverse polarity (i.e., positive to negative, and negative to positive) and the two subwoofers outside the box with normal polarity (i.e., positive to positive, and negative to negative) when bolting the subwoofers face to face (with a 3/4" wood ring in between the subs that I prefabbed myself) . In this configuration, they all worked together as a team and had a lot higher dB gain from 20Hz-60Hz running at 2ft³ per chamber for each pair (as it had a divider in the Dual 12" 4ft³ net volume box).
Of all the great @HexiBase videos this might be one of the best. So many wannabes talking BS, but so great to see at least some TH-camrs really understanding their business.
good explaination and I like the fact that you don't do like most utuber and take 20 minutes to explain stuf that can be done in 7 minutes. good job
Just noticing... how does Pete not have well north of 100K subs? This guy is brilliant and his videos are pro grade.
Same for the guys over at Tech Ingredients - AMAZING content low sub count. Then I thought about it and...well, it's useful information presented in a clear manner with professional grade production quality. There is no clickbait, no gimmicks, no drama, no anime goofy faced thumbnails, no silly mindless crap like "what happens if we plug this driver into the wall socket?!!! Lets find out!" so low subs.
It's why we pay people who play with a ball 10's of millions of dollars and someone devoting their life finding a cure for cancer maybe...MAYBE a hundred grand a year. Unfortunately people like us are in the minority. Most want someone jumping up and down like a gorilla around a rented Lambo chanting mindless words like "It's everyday bro...it's everyday bro"
Also, while he has low sub count, he's getting a decent view counts and that's what matters in the end for $$$.
@@JViello Damn, well said.
The technical level of this video is off the charts! Thank you!
Sooooo much detailed information! Also so glad to see you collaborate with Wilston Audio & Hifi Vega!!!
Huge respect man! The things that you know about sound and how to engineer everything from scratch... I guess you dedicated your teenage to go through the nooks and cranys of how things work... Aaand, here we are! Learning things everyday!
148 Dislike ?!?! WTF ?! WHY ?? Crazy people ! THIS IS THE KIND OF THE BEST EVER GUIDE for all of us ( beginners or experts ).
The best speaker channel on TH-cam, hands down.
This man is extremely great at what he does . Such a privilege to be a huge fan of yours. Great work very professional very educational.
12 volt guys got me over here and I'm glad they did keep up the good work brother.
Thanks Peter for your videos and talent! You got me back into stereos after 20 years!
I learn’t a lot from this, mostly the fact that i don’t know anything. Good vid 👍
My enclosure was made because of this video ! 4 VFL 6.5 in isobaric 6th order on taramp 5000.1MD@2ohms
Back in the 90's I had a Thunderbird with 8 kicker 8" iso. It had the low end of a 12" with the tightness of a 6" or 8" with plenty of volume. I was running 8 ohm subs all parallel off of a PPI pro mos 12. The box total was only 2.4 cf. Back then that was small and loud!! I loved building new boxes to try out. Learned a lot and if this channel was around then I would have saved a lot of headaches. Awesome job and thanks.
I started watching this channel a couple weeks ago; and i can say i am happy i subscribed.
Good to see you getting back onto the acoustics subject, it's quality content, and your grasp of the subject is genuine.
I wish I had people like you thru out my schooling clean crisp clear
Just earlier today I was wondering about isobaric loadings, what impeccable timing!
I knew all of these results, but had no idea WHY the results actually happened the way they did. Awesome video, thanks!
idk how i stumbled on this but i'm sure i'm glad i did. fantastic.
Yes, back in 92 I set up four fosgate series 1 twelves in a ported box in an isobaric configuration. Punch 150HD in stereo mode at two ohm per channel. Vehicle was a 1988 ford escort. Very small box in the hatch. Mcm goldline doors, rears and tweets ran off a Kenwood 920or 921,can't remember. It was a very impressive sounding set up. LA sound crossover. Kenwood head unit.
You touched on something at 6:20 that I tried to search a while back when I started to design a smallish tapped horn. You stated: "...as long as the mounting depth of the drivers doesn't exceed the the internal clearance".
One of the biggest concerns I had with my design was the lack of room the driver had around it. I wasn't able to find any info about how much is room is actually needed behind the driver, so I decided to change the design slightly to give it a tad more space.
Most tapped horns I found online are huge and the driver sits almost at the mouth of the horn, many times in a steep angle and the mouth is huge as well, so it's hardly an issue.
In my build, a 6,5" driver is around 50cm deep inside the horn. Width of the horn is pretty tight fit, at around 7" and there's not that much room between the magnet and the outer wall. Making it any smaller seemed ludicrous.
I just got it finished (still need to paint it) and I have tested it briefly and it is quite something in a small flat :D Need to find the time to set it up properly.
Anyways, I was wondering if you knew any limits or have ever come across issues with too tight clearance in a tapped horn? What would even happen if it was or can it be? I have hard time trying to thing what actually happens if it was. If you have any ideas, I'd love to hear them.
Love the channel. Lot of really well laid out info!
Now I have to figure out the math on if the two woofers mounted in series were wired in parallel. Thanks for the video!
Yes! my thought's are it would be the same as the iso setup given the enclosure volume was doubled & not 3db below as shown but it would be nice if Pete could revisit this.
This channel deserves way more views
Amazing to finally see someone dig into the maths, usually we see theory and then finished product, great job
It is so refreshing to hear such useful knowledge. Thanks!
This video saved my two 18s in a Fiesta project :-)
Thanks!!!
I have to say I like your Channel. And this is coming from a guy who knows this stuff also, so I mean this as a compliment. I started doing this back in the early 90s when I also got my MECP. And was doing high-end audio installation. I'm also one of those people who can't watch reality TV or all that other nonsense so enjoy watching stuff like this even if I already know it. Also I like that I can enjoy learn different tactics and or touch up on things that I forgotten over the years. Regardless I see too many channels that just recap the basics that everybody already knows. I've watched effuse your videos and I like your approach and the level of detail in which you explain things. I like the technical stuff. I don't like people that try to make their channels more interesting by cutting out the technical stuff and heading in a bunch of made-up nonsense, like all of a sudden you get into an argument with one of your guys type nonsense just a raise the drama effect.
I also forgot to add that I like the way you get into details and the use of all the T/S parameters, because it's more then just FS, Qts, & Fb, for most, & others will add F3 & EBP , meanwhile there are many more that are important, especially if you want top notch. Sure the above few will get you by if you just want a basic system that gives a little boom. But when you want that high quality system, then learning and applying all the parameters are needed
Yep, you know when a guy speaks with authority on his chosen topic.
Have used this with very tight musical effect, but never thought of doing this in a transmission line. Thanks.
^ x2 - i',m ashamed to say 🙄 😏 But Pete only talks about cross section. It doesn't seem to change the line length it would seem. That might have help for my lat4est project which is a revision of a failed attempt at a Sundown E10 v3 th-cam.com/video/J92zJIDOi1Q/w-d-xo.html
Good tone, explanation and its easy listening, i like your informative style
Can we get a video from you on TS parameters? You're quite good an explaining things and I'd like your take on the various parameters from your perspective and in a practical sense.
The only two issues as far as I know (i'm still learning) are that T/S parameters are not a constant, and they change with different atmospheric conditions. Also, I don't know how solid a *Rule Of Thumb* of ...
ported under 0.5
sealed 0.5 0 - whatever
IB - over 0.7
... is? This guy mounted his Dynaudio Esotar 1200 in an IB configuration, and they have a QTS of 0,34!
www.diymobileaudio.com/forum/2064684-post523.html
bit.ly/2U7Y3BA
so ...
Other than that, its a matter of; how accurate the manufactures published parameters are. Some are Ok, whilst other can be wildly off. worst example I saw was the JL Audio ZR800 CW 8" midbass (no longer in production) had/has a published QTS of 0.662, but yet the actual parameter was around than double that.
www.diymobileaudio.com/forum/member-reviews-product-comparisons/173556-jl-audio-zr800-cw-8-midbass-objective-review.html
With that being said, I think its important not to focus on a singular parameter like QTS or Xmax, at the expense of any and all other parameters.
Anyway ... no doubt Pete will correct any false assertions 😭
th-cam.com/video/JdQ3mLU5zBE/w-d-xo.html
@@juststuff5216 the rule of thumb is not standardized. i run ADS S10's IB (truck door cavity), Qts=.22 Fs
I second this!
Back in the late 80’s I experimented with a parallel setup once. Two Magnavox 8” woofers and original enclosure of one speaker. I guessed at opening of port ( just removed material from front baffle. Barely heard anything but made everything upstairs shake.Was in corner firing up.
Everything is interesting if you get into it deeply enough.
- Feynman
Sub!
I wach this guy for about over year. Grat teacher. Confirm, best visualisation.
Finally! Someone explaining the good stuff!
If he's not the best at explaining .. he's certainly up their in my esteem as an acoustician!
Just found your channel today. So much great information that no one else seems to cover. Would love to see you do a video where you go through the design process for a scenario(or two!). From driver selection to enclosure design (like what order and the process of making that decision). Something like a home theater subwoofer, music subwoofer, or car audio subwoofer with of course some specific design criteria like space, extension, output, etc. Keep it coming!
“Twice the (Moving) Mass, Half the Vas” was a term I coined as a teenager in the 1990s when Isobaric made sense because manufacturers weren’t making drivers for smaller enclosures.
I've done hundreds of iso setups from 80s to now.
My girl's box is a pair of 12s in 1.8 cubes with a 3", 18" long flared port tuned to ~29.
Moves the winshield of her suv a 1/4" or more at 32Hz on 500W.
The old boys I've met over the years in my local car audio community always know far more than the young guys that just want bigger drivers and more power. It's what fascinates me enough to try to learn the science to build my own transmission lines and bandpasses.
Lol very creative!
Thank you for a very clear and informative video. I've been curious about the physics involved in isobarics for a long time. In this short presentation, you accelerated my learning curve to near vertical.
Great delivery of very complex audio and electrical facts! Have recommended your channel to many audio engineering students. Keep up the good work :)
Always appreciate you for taking the time to break things down. Keep up the good work
What makes this presentation possibly confusing is you can also have side by side woofers but wired in parallel, and you can also have clamshell isobaric but wired electrically in series (a pair of 4 ohm woofers as 8 ohms total for example). People watching this video might think you have to wire it as you show here but they really don't.
Yeah, i am unsure why Pete didn't show the side by side woofers is parallel rather than series.
I like the frequency curve on that graph of the isobaric set-up. Now to figure out how i can do this with two giant 18" woofers in my little car. I got it in my head, but achieving it in person is another story.
😄👍👍
Great stuff. Always looking for the next video. Wish some of the old guess the size vids were still there.
Once again Mr. Wizard has blown my mind. 🤯. Great video! Keep up the good work!!!! 👍
Was at a car show.....when ORIAN was on there top game. About 20yrs ago....lol. there was an ORIAN booth with a 90 something Toyota pickup with the extra cab and it had 10 10's in an isobaric configuration. That shit banged so dam hard. Never forget that build!!
Why would anyone give thumbs down to this video is beyond me..
I had an isobaric enclosure. One sub blew. I had a passive radiator in shop. So just to see what it would sound like I used it instead of second subwoofer I used it. It really surprised me and was louder than before
Your amount of knowledge is awesome. Thanks for sharing it with us with these videos.
BigD. brought me here to this channel! Cool channel indeed!
im sorry you had to start in that channel
Nicely explained Pete, but it would have been nice to have the two direct radiating woofers also shown in parallel wiring as well xx
@@HexiBase yeah man, there was a fad over in England where all the kids were going iso in recommend volumes for a single driver... Everyone was destroying suspension components left right and centre lol. I did warn them lol xx
Such a good explanation that even I could understand it. The diagrams helped too. Nice job!
Holy crap you just blew my mind for how to do my next transmission line for my home theater!
Thank you so much for this video. This mostly helped me work with parameters when you have two woofers in series. I couldn’t figure out the formula to change the parameters and this is laid out very easily.
Could've explained it any better myself excellent good video topic of discussion you're one of the more knowledgeable basshead's I know 👍
There are some who focus on shiny expensive equipment rather than on acoustics. I think Pete does the latter rather well, and more importantly, he backs up his claims!
I love Hexi’s vids... been watching since the early days of him in his shop way back making boxes for customers coming from all over... seeing the design, the build process and even the fit and sometimes listen/measuring session.... al’a that crazy 4/12 confit in that Escalade/Chevy style big SUV he did I liked so much.
To some they would probably want some laymen low connotation explanation to go along with his technical explanation in these vids but I think it evokes those interested to learn more. Like diving into Thiel Small Parameters accordingly.
If you haven’t had the chance of seeing his wild box builds from back in the PWK days... I highly suggest finding those and some of those designs and builds were way beyond anything of their time... meaning the tech was there but no one was really tackling what it took to design and make tapered waveguides, T-Lines and aperiodic chambered boxes for the time... I remember Hexi getting hammered by quite a bit of his viewers and people of industry to release what software he used back then and come to find out if I recall.... it was his own design and maybe if I recall it was one of his projects for engineering school though don’t quote me on that but I think that’s what I remember him saying way back when he addressed the issue in a small snippet of one of his vids. Either way he has definitely contributed to the audio community as a whole... both automotive and hi-end/hi-fi home audio.
For that I am thankful he continues.
wow. 🤯. would love to see more on the quad stack parallel enclosure. but with that said, single woofer enclosures for me (Kicker L7) and Bazooka tubes 4Life
I love how you explain everything.
The quality of your videos are amazing! Creation of these videos must take very long - i appreciate the effort!
This is way above my level of understanding however, I found the video interesting and informative for those who are looking to wire up subs.
Cheers,
mvh
the12volt is an amazing tool. so glad its still around, i use to use them 10 years ago when i was into cars a lot!
most excellent video👍
i will watch all your videos about building my 4th order bandpass isobaric box before i cut any wood. i am wanting a true "sub"woofer setup with no extra bass above around 40hz, my main speakers take care of 45hz+(club bass i call it), my biggest problem is i can not find the t&s parameters for the "dcm replacement kx212" pair i got off ebay🤣😂🤣😂. i am after lower bass than the kx212 can go (25hz). i really wish i had a laptop or something to get winisd but i only have my phone.
thank you for making these videos and helping the world understand a little better🙏✌️
You the Man! I've made an isobaric box w/ 12's. So tight, so clean. You can hear the bass notes. You essentially waste one driver & the power to drive it... In my case about 450 watts. But she was clean!!!!! I've gotten almost as clean w/ a 2nd backward driver w/o losing SPL. But an isobaric is the cleanest. You just power it by burning money.
I like you videos because of how informative they are. Even tho I might not understand all those numbers it's good to know how those numbers work and what they are .
Steve Irby challenged his engineers to create a single woofer with the TS parameters of two woofers in isobaric config, and the Solobaric was born. very cool design, not seen much anymore
Nothing is to be said, another crisp video by HB!
Great video! Very informative. But... you stopped one point short of where I was hoping you'd go. I've asked this question in a couple of places. And, I've gotten two different answers... If the subs I'm using want a volume for one driver of "X", and I'm using an isobaric loading that lets me build a box sized at half that size - "X/2", what volume should I tune the port for? The effective size of the box (X) or the actual size of the box (X/2)?
Thanks! You (as always) are The Man!
I'm literally in the process of modeling an isobaric front loaded horn. What a coincidence.
Very well done Pete. Learned some things I didnt know. Cheers!
Always been a big fan of isobaric, great presentation!
Superb presentation and clarity, why can't everything be like this?
I want to build a t-line box for my van. At the end of the video you committed on isobaric loading a t-line cutting the waveguide cross section in half. It would be really cool if you could do a video on this and maybe other types of t-lines.
Thanks again man you're a font of massively interesting audio knowledge keep up the good work 😊
fount
If you have a ported box with one sub that sounds OK
And you buy 3 more matching subs, and another amp.
Cut one more sub hole, and pair up the subs in Isobarik.
On paper it will have the same response, and spl, but use twice the power.
Will it sound tighter / better / faster with all those extra magents, and power?
Clamshell arrangement is my favorite for several reasons. 1) It is very simple to do 2) It doesn't decrease the volume of the box any more than would be with a single woofer mounted in it (since the 2nd woofer is outside of the box). 3) The amount of air between the woofers is minimized, thus making the coupling "tighter". 4) No special woodworking skills are needed. In fact, one of the simplest ways to make a good subwoofer of reasonable size is to use some old already made enclosure, mount 2 identical woofers in it this way (clamshell), and seal up the other holes (such as leave the midrange and tweeter in the box but either disconnect them or filter them out).
man you giving great lessons over youtube !
thank to you i built much better projects my self. big thumbs up to you for that
I was just thinking about my past subwoofer systems. I think it would have been 30-31 years ago when I built my first isobaric sub system. 2 15's in a 3.5 cubic foot ported box. For music I've never heard it matched for clean, smooth bass. Very accurate to 25 Hz.
I know this was from a year ago but it just popped up for me. I haven’t heard “isobaric” since the early 90s. I remember I had a set of MTX Terminators that were in a prefab box that was amazing. Wish I kept them as a collectors item
I learned about you through Wilson audio labs. You guys are amazing ,thank you for the great info!
Thx for breaking it all down, useful information.👍✌
Where are the rest of your Iso baric explanations at? I was looking for what/how doing an iso ported, but then saw you can iso a T-line!!!!
What would the effect be if the 10liter dual woofer is connected in parallel... how would the frequency respond graph look?
Very good TH-cam Channel!
Connect voice coils in parallel ... like isobaric...
you have very good speech, preach and teaching skills man! tnx for the knowledge, very well explained!
That was perfect. Thank you very much for the explanation. I value your knowledge and time.
Keep up the awesome videos! Can't wait for that 4+ driver isobaric loading thing. I'm not building a damn thing but I love learning about it all. Maybe one day I'm gonna have to break out the power tools!
Thank fuck someone who actually knows what they're talking about.
I had a dual isobaric once upon a time it was rather large and heavy 4x10" Seas P25REX 8 ohm 93 db spl wired in series/parallel which gave the amp a nice easy to manage 4ohm load in a sealed enclosure mounted with drivers facing away from each other (magnet to magnet) it appeared as a 2 driver system, it was the best sounding car subwoofer I've ever had. It sounded very clean and tight zero booming, very musical. Most subwoofer set ups back then were ported enclosures which I have never liked due to the boomy bass (which you could hear a mile away and not very musical) Mine on the other hand was more or less contained within the interior of the car (at loud enough volume believe me) I never liked to telegraph sound like most seem to do. I guess in hindsight I could have used a 2 driver set up but the Seas drivers I choose were only available in 8 ohm and I didn't want a 2 ohm load going to my amp. I was fascinated with Isobaric from the time I heard about it and was very pleased with the outcome. BTW the amp I used was only 300w bridged, now I see amps of over a kilowatt as standard subs rated 2-3k. I don't quite understand that thinking.
Speaking of 4 drivers in a row, the Polk Audio C4 from back in the day comes to mind. Utilizing two ported chambers, a sealed portion, and two sets of isobaric 6x9's. It was an impressive subwoofer for it's time. I'd like to see a video on passive radiators, since it's kind of making a comback for "compact" subwoofer enclosures.
What about series isobaric (clamshell)? For example, if someone gets a great deal on a pair of 4 ohm "car" woofers from his buddy and wants to make them into an isobaric subwoofer for his home theater and wants 8 ohms, he can make a series wired clamshell arrangement on the 2 woofers.