Did this on my K1100 LT. Wished I would have scuffed the old pressure plates a bit with something courser than 600 wet or dry, to give them a "hone". I have just a bit of uneven grab instead of smooth engagement all the way through, which is getting to be less of a problem as the new clutch wears in. No leaks. Wasn't difficult to do, just took patience and time. Had good tutorials like this one. Used a 1"x2" to tap new seal flush. No problems there.
Would the clutch jam plate not have stopped rotation to allow the outer plate to be removed and refitted by jamming against the casing? Perhaps by adding small studs on each end to go into the casing recess and using it either way round?
The clutch holding tool thought there was a mention of buying one? I even went to his Amazon shop page and couldn't find one. I live in Arizona and do not want to buy one from GB on ebay. Need to do this yesterday not in a month from now.
Is that o-ring what typically gets hard from heat and causes engine oil to leak out of the weep hole? I was thinking of buying a '93 K1100 with this issue and as a DIY repair guy I didn't know how much of a job this would be. $2,900 with 47k on the clock and a few other small issues-the weep hole leak is my main issue with buying it.
Since the splines on the clutch housing are in front of the O-ring they are on the engine oil side of the O-ring. Doesn't the engine oil end up lubricating the splines? Hot engine oil constantly bathing the splines, washing away the moly lube?
Had a 1976 r90/6 great riding motorcycle alot of little pia things with it battery placement carbs wanted a k model in 1985 but no local dealer watching your videos and this motorcycle just seems overly complicated good video though
Was going to get a K1200RS, until I read about the clutch and rear seal failure (was searching for info on possible issues).... quite disturbing and puts a stop on the deal. Does the K1100RS (previous model) has the same issue?
Well I have this problem to solve also. What are the symptoms of a bad seal. I seam to have oil around the bell case seam .but it's more on top . Could you give out the part numbers needed for the parts when doing the seal job Thu
EAT MORE PORRIDGE! It helps turning torque lever. Great vids by the way. I have a K100 with bent front forks. Any vids on fork replacement. Maybe the K1200 would shed some pounds if panels were Carbon fibre? I may try to make carbon fibre fairings for my K100LT
Здравствуйте! Меня зовут Владимир, я из Беларуси. Очень давно смотрю Ваше видео по ремонту BMW K1200LT и восхищаюсь Вашим профессионализмом. Возможно ли у Вас купить данный мотоцикл. Спасибо.
Different subject, can the rod bearings be replaced without removing the engine on a K1200LT? Looks like one could just remove the lower end cover to get to them.
My 2003 K1200 main seal lasted 13 years and the bike had 78,000 miles on it. I wonder if the age of my seal leakage is about the same for all K1200's ?
@@14wntr thanks for your advice. I am sure it would work! But not in my case unfortunately as my both left hands wired starter wrong way round! Hahaha! Only 2 leads and I managed to connect them wrong! So starter was spinning in opposite direction. I wonder how I didn't fry the wiring at all. Coz I bump started it and went for a ride! The only thing I noticed- temperature gauge was in the red and fans didn't work , so I came back quickly. Oh, well lesson learned.
Hi! I have oil leak betwen crankcase and gearbox but its not engine oil as i saw that is the main problem. Mine is leaking transmisson oil. What should be wrong ? Thanks for the answer!
+14wntr Thanks for the answer. There is special tool, which is mentioned in the video for stoping the crankshaft. Is it possible to get some dwg drawings or some other plans? Probably would be good if i change all seals which is in this section... ? Thanks
I used a 1/4 inch drive 1/2 inch socket. This centers the push rod, socket and the clutch plate perfectly. This was a great tutorial.
Muy buen video. Gracias por tus enseñanzas. saludos desde España. Very good video. Thanks for your teachings. Regards from Spain.
So good.The banter!
Thanks for the video,I was planning get a BNW trike but I change my mind.
Verry clear and helpfull for me thanks
Thanks for this video!
Thank you for help 🏍️
Did this on my K1100 LT. Wished I would have scuffed the old pressure plates a bit with something courser than 600 wet or dry, to give them a "hone". I have just a bit of uneven grab instead of smooth engagement all the way through, which is getting to be less of a problem as the new clutch wears in. No leaks. Wasn't difficult to do, just took patience and time. Had good tutorials like this one. Used a 1"x2" to tap new seal flush. No problems there.
Thanks great work
Thanks for video is very helpful and educational. I'm gonna replace clutch and main seal in my 2000 k1200rs but need spec for removal bar.?
Thanks for the video. Doing it now. Do you have the measurement of the holding bar ? Thanks :-)
Thank you for this video. It helps me very much.
Would the clutch jam plate not have stopped rotation to allow the outer plate to be removed and refitted by jamming against the casing? Perhaps by adding small studs on each end to go into the casing recess and using it either way round?
Great video!! Would you send me the specs to make that bar >? Thank you so much.
The clutch holding tool thought there was a mention of buying one? I even went to his Amazon shop page and couldn't find one. I live in Arizona and do not want to buy one from GB on ebay. Need to do this yesterday not in a month from now.
You know it would be nice to have a list of the parts #s needed and the tools required
Is that o-ring what typically gets hard from heat and causes engine oil to leak out of the weep hole? I was thinking of buying a '93 K1100 with this issue and as a DIY repair guy I didn't know how much of a job this would be. $2,900 with 47k on the clock and a few other small issues-the weep hole leak is my main issue with buying it.
Since the splines on the clutch housing are in front of the O-ring they are on the engine oil side of the O-ring. Doesn't the engine oil end up lubricating the splines? Hot engine oil constantly bathing the splines, washing away the moly lube?
Had a 1976 r90/6 great riding motorcycle alot of little pia things with it battery placement carbs wanted a k model in 1985 but no local dealer watching your videos and this motorcycle just seems overly complicated good video though
l am looking for the numbers of the replacement parts used to replace the clutch and drill the slave cyl,
What are the specs for the tool "bar" mounted at 6:40? Can you send me the page on how to fabricate? Thanks!
Hello. 1100LT it is with the same clutch ?
Starter removal and replacement help please!!!
Rear crankshaft oil seal very poorly designed or is it only a temporary seal?
Was going to get a K1200RS, until I read about the clutch and rear seal failure (was searching for info on possible issues).... quite disturbing and puts a stop on the deal.
Does the K1100RS (previous model) has the same issue?
Well I have this problem to solve also. What are the symptoms of a bad seal.
I seam to have oil around the bell case seam .but it's more on top .
Could you give out the part numbers needed for the parts when doing the seal job
Thu
EAT MORE PORRIDGE! It helps turning torque lever. Great vids by the way. I have a K100 with bent front forks. Any vids on fork replacement. Maybe the K1200 would shed some pounds if panels were Carbon fibre? I may try to make carbon fibre fairings for my K100LT
What's the part # on the seal?
Can someone give me the specs for making the clutch holding tool
Excellent videos! On my second K bike. Current one is a 1999LT. I'm getting ready to do the timing chain guides. Do you have a video on that? Thanks!
Sorry, no. Those guides pretty much never go bad to the point they need changing.
@@kirksmotorrad ah. I thought I saw in the manual they recommend changing the guides at 50k. My 99 has 152k on it.
Здравствуйте! Меня зовут Владимир, я из Беларуси. Очень давно смотрю Ваше видео по ремонту BMW K1200LT и восхищаюсь Вашим профессионализмом. Возможно ли у Вас купить данный мотоцикл. Спасибо.
Different subject, can the rod bearings be replaced without removing the engine on a K1200LT? Looks like one could just remove the lower end cover to get to them.
Yes they can! Pretty straight forward change. Be sure to use new bolts and follow the manual
Staburags это же герметик для резинок, зачем его на шлицы и трущиеся поверхности наносить??
My 2003 K1200 main seal lasted 13 years and the bike had 78,000 miles on it. I wonder if the age of my seal leakage is about the same for all K1200's ?
I would say yes.
Thanks for video. Changed the seal, assembled everything back , turn the key, starter spins - no crank! Sounds like sprag clutch.. WTF!
put the bike in 4th or 5th and rock the rear wheel back and forth very hard. It may free up the sprag clutch. Kirk
@@14wntr thanks for your advice. I am sure it would work! But not in my case unfortunately as my both left hands wired starter wrong way round! Hahaha! Only 2 leads and I managed to connect them wrong! So starter was spinning in opposite direction. I wonder how I didn't fry the wiring at all. Coz I bump started it and went for a ride! The only thing I noticed- temperature gauge was in the red and fans didn't work , so I came back quickly. Oh, well lesson learned.
@@serega3230 cripes! I hope you didnt damage anything...
@@14wntr everything working fine!
Molto interessante sarebbe bello la traduzione in italiano
Hi!
I have oil leak betwen crankcase and gearbox but its not engine oil as i saw that is the main problem. Mine is leaking transmisson oil. What should be wrong ? Thanks for the answer!
That would be the pilot bearing seal. Sadly you have to pull the Trans to replace it.
+14wntr Thanks for the answer. There is special tool, which is mentioned in the video for stoping the crankshaft. Is it possible to get some dwg drawings or some other plans? Probably would be good if i change all seals which is in this section... ?
Thanks
+Rok Ipavec send me an email to info@illinoisbmwriders.com and I will send you what I have.
+14wntr i send you...
Rok Ipavec send an email to 14wntr@gmail.com instead. I didnt get yours.
anybody have a link for specs to fabricate the bar that most of the comments seem to be asking about?
send me an email from my contact page at www.kirksmotorrad.com
For those who dont have ft pounds, 37 = 50 Newton mtrs
does the fuel tank have to come off to pull transmission?
yes. it needs to be off so you can get to the airbox better.
+illinoisBMWriders so that means all the front fairng ,dash ect? hoover dam! it looked like i was so close. lol
The front fairing stays. Just remove the side panels and radio stingray.
+illinoisBMWriders what is the radio piece.
please watch my video on removing the panels
Where do you purchase your parts
from anywhere with the best price. Sometimes Wunderlich
3 LEGGED PULLER REQUIRED! lol
Where are the bar specs? Anyone?
I can email them to you if I know where to send them. info@illiniosbmwriders.com
johnweingold@gmail.com
Thx.
I tried that link..Mail was sent back..Got another one?
BmW
Ah I like the guy but a claw hammer and a hook. I’m sorry I believe in buying the correct puller. Especially if I’m in the repair business.
BMW Bavarian money wasters
WRONG!
with all that work $200.00 are just cents😳😩🥱
You know it would be nice to have a list of the parts #s needed and the tools required