Retrobrite Gigsplained

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  • เผยแพร่เมื่อ 28 พ.ย. 2024

ความคิดเห็น • 9

  • @bobgilbert7362
    @bobgilbert7362 2 ปีที่แล้ว +1

    This is really a superb science-based analysis and explanation. I have watched it carefully several times. Thank you. There were several statements, however, that my lack of knowledge caused me to not understand, as follows: (1) The terms "speedy bright" and "retro bright" were used. What is the difference? (2) Caution was emphasized when treating "soft plastics" (e.g., styrenes) vs "hard plastics" (e.g. ABS). How does one differentiate between soft and hard (Is it no more complicated than ability to resist penetration/deformation?), and what are the specific cautions to be observed with soft? I think the plastics of concern to me are "hard" (e.g., ceiling fan blades and jetted-tub nozzles), but I would appreciate clarification of the terms.

    • @gigsplain
      @gigsplain  2 ปีที่แล้ว

      Speedee-brite is a retrobrighting process that we developed to avoid using UV light which is known to damage plastics. As it turns out, using the Speedee-brite method is faster but has only been developed for more hardy plastics (like ABS). Soft plastics like polystyrene and HDPE have a much lower flow point and this high heat method will deform them. Today, most plastic parts have a recycling code on them to identify what kind of plastic they are. In retro, this code didn't exist so it is important to know how to tell the difference by examining it closely. Differentiating between different plastics is fairly simple but easy to get wrong. The feel, the sound, the look all play a part in identifying but even I got it wrong a couple of times.

  • @tomleech9753
    @tomleech9753 2 ปีที่แล้ว

    Ok, so say you had a 10 gallon fish tank, and you set up a cathode and an anode in open ended tubes, or the what is the exact setup for under gravel filters, conveniently.
    You locate each of them near the bottom of the tank, and in opposite corners, as undergravel filters are designed.
    The oxygen bubbles up one tube, the hydrogen bubbles up the other towards the surface.
    You put a barrier on the top of the tank, and you leave say 6" of air between the water level and the top of the tank.
    Lets say you use some 1" reflective foam insulation, and run the oxygen column right up out of the tank through a hole in the top foam barrier "cover", and into the atmosphere.
    The hydrogen tube only goes above the water, but is still stuck 6" under the insulation and the top of the tank.
    Inside that air gap, you install a shelf where you can put a standard fish tank air pump, and at the end you put an air stone as is normal, and run the tubing down the hydrogen bubble column, so that the hydrogen in the air above the water, and below the cover recirculate down to the air stone, ad then bubble up through the column.
    You use a standard fish tank heater to maintain temperature, say 85 degrees F.
    Does this result in a fluid, in this case water, with a lot of dissolved hydrogen gas in it? Do you think that can that be used for retrobriting?
    Would you also use a UV lamp, then cover all sides in 1" reflective foam insulation to trap in the light, reflect it around all sides of the item, and to lower heat loss or gain from the surrounding environment?
    Do you think an ultrasonic fogger would be useful to expose the water, in 100nm size droplets to the hydrogen rich air above the water line, before it condenses and falls back into the tank?
    I haven't built this device yet, but you seem to have a really well more informed view on this than I do, and I'd love to year your thoughts before I head to the pet supply. :) (Worst case it doesn't work and I have to buy a fish and build an awesome fountain. :) )

    • @tomleech9753
      @tomleech9753 2 ปีที่แล้ว

      Also if that doesn't work, if we bubble ozone in as well, doesn't it CREATE H2O2? My reading on "naturally occurring hydrogen peroxide" is slim.

    • @gigsplain
      @gigsplain  2 ปีที่แล้ว

      Hydrogen is explosive. To hydrolyze and capture enough to retrobrite a piece would be dangerous to say the least. We use hydrogen peroxide because it is stable. It then becomes a matter of what will catalyze the hydrogen out of solution so it can react to your part. The retrobrite process only produces a small amount of hydrogen at a time so it is very safe and doesn't require a rube-goldberg style contraption to make it work. Just heat or UV.

    • @tomleech9753
      @tomleech9753 2 ปีที่แล้ว

      @@gigsplain k.

  • @samcraftYT
    @samcraftYT ปีที่แล้ว +1

    That's a great explanation thank you. So what about some vidéo game consoles that only some part turn yellow and other don't. Is it because the plastic use on each parts is different and has more hydrogen atoms?

    • @gigsplain
      @gigsplain  ปีที่แล้ว +1

      That is the issue sometimes, however, heat is also a factor. If some parts get hotter than others, you can accelerate the yellowing on some parts and not others.

  • @gabrielpetchengel9661
    @gabrielpetchengel9661 10 หลายเดือนก่อน

    obrigado! thanks