Suzuki Bandit GSF600 - Valve Clearance Adjustment (short version)
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- เผยแพร่เมื่อ 28 ธ.ค. 2019
- Valve adjustment on a 2002 Suzuki Bandit 600. Process should be pretty similar to a 1200 or Katana 600. Made a "short" version of this video to get right to business--if you want an extended version that doesn't exclude all the bulljive to get access to the valves, search for my long version on this topic.
Long Version available here: • GSF600 Valve Adjustmen...
I was a little intimidated at first to do this procedure; however, it turned out not to be that bad. It's just time consuming. The Motion Pro 3mm square w/ 8mm locknut tool worked well, but you could accomplish the same thing with an 8mm box end wrench and a tiny pliers. I suggest using two sets of feeler gauges. - ยานยนต์และพาหนะ
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Hey, I'm doing the valves on my 1997 Bandit 600 today and found your video. I bought the tool you used last week so we were both using the same tools, and the adjustment went pretty well. Just wanted to thank you for doing this for everyone.
Thank you for the kind words, and I really appreciate the comment. Means a lot. I know they're not the best vids, but the goal was just to help people out if possible so they'll be less intimidated by a job and try to take it on themselves. Glad to hear your adjustment went well. Cheers.
Took my valve cover off today, I was greeted with an overwhelming smell of gasoline and it appeared that the head had a couple pools of oil/gas mixed together from the previous owner. I also managed to drop one of those valve cover bolt washers right into a spark plug well, took me a solid 20 minutes to fish it out. More often than not this motorcycle pisses me the fuck off and I have to stop working on it for a day or two. Seriously appreciate the videos on this motorcycle!
Edit: All my exhaust valves were too tight. 4 of my intake valves were on point. 27k miles, I don't think the valves were ever adjusted before.
I'm getting close to doing the valves on my 99' GSF600 Bandit. Thanks for making this video, makes it seem much more approachable now.
It's not too bad. Actually getting to the the valves is the more time consuming part. But once you're in there, check and double check your work, and you should be good to go.
Thanks man, heading out to do my katana 600.
Done plenty of bucket shim valves on quads but this is my first street bike so it was nice to visually see everything opened before digging in.
Thanks again for taking the time
If you're already familiar with the (generally) more complicated bucket shims, you'll probably find tappet style easy peasy.
The part that takes a bit of practice is locking the locknut without overtightening the tappet and throwing off your clearance. You'll have it in a couple practice runs though. Good luck Travis!
@matttriestodothings thanks man, for er done fairly quick and she's running awesome.
Best 300 I've ever spent lol
I'm getting close to doing the valves on my 99' GSF600 Bandit. Thanks for making this video, makes it seem much more approachable now. I'm buying a Bandit tomorrow. woo hooo. Happy days,!
Congrats, have fun with the new bike!
Most of these things are scary the first time. Then you finish and you're like... that wasn't so bad. Luckily with these locknut and tappet-style valves they are fairly simple to adjust, and it doesn't involve removing the camshafts. The toughest part is just getting in there with the cover off. The adjustment itself is pretty simple.
Good video man recently found your videos and I’m loving the vibe and info! Jobs that someone does in a 15 minute TH-cam video usually take me three days lol
It may look like a 15 minute video, but it sure as hell took me more than that! The first time doing any of these maintenance jobs always takes way longer than subsequent attempts. It's all part of learning though.
@@matttriestodothings that’s right I can’t bring myself to pay anyone else to do it so I gotta learn myself, thanks to gentlemen like yourself and a Haynes manual I can figure out how to get it done! Thanks again man cheers
This video was a lifesaver for me since its the first time i myself have to do it
Glad to hear it was useful. Hopefully you're feeling alright after the accident and you're ready to roll again on your Bandit!
Thank you. Had real trouble getting the cover back over the cam-chain without it pulling the spark-plug gasket/rubber off... Had to put it in upside down in the end with the cover already past the cam-chain. The other three stayed on ok. Last time I did this job, I didn't replace any of the gaskets... they were stuck in place. I didn't use any sealant both times.
Thank you for the video, it really helped me out.
Thanks Reggie--I'm glad it was useful. I got lucky in that the spark plug gaskets on mine stayed stuck really well to the valve cover, but it's certainly a little nerveracking dragging that cover back on just hoping they stay in place.
Thanks again, Matt. Just subscribed. Will drop a like on all your video's.
@@ReggieChump no worries Reggie--if they suck then down vote em, lol.
You make it look easy. I did the valves on my 93 fzr600 back when I was young and swore I would never do it again.
The magic of editing, hah. I did this over a couple days. It wasnt that difficult, but it's just time consuming. And once you're in there, you want to double and triple check everything because you don't want to have to pull everything back off if you get it wrong.
I haven't done my fzr yet. I'm considering having a go this winter. I don't think the valves have ever been looked at in ~30k miles. Are they locknut or shim and bucket? If they're shim I'm just going to leave it alone and hope for the best.
Shim and bucket. I was a kid this was back in like 94. I just remember trying to get the cams lined back up. I probably wouldn’t have much of a problem with it now I would hope
@@mmotorcycles9497 ooffffff course they are.. lol. I've actually never done a shim and bucket valve job, so maybe it would be worth doing as a learning experience sometime. I'll read through the manual and see how tough the procedure looks. I have a new set of air intake boots for the carburetors I need to install anyway, so I've got to get in there pretty good anyway.
FYI 3M Black Super Weatherstrip and Gasket Adhesive, 08008 is great for keeping gaskets on in place when installing things.
Doing some reading about it now--I should probably have a tube on hand regardless. Thanks for the suggestion!
clear explanation, thanks for that.
One question though, did you change any of the gaskets?
Thanks Jack. I did not change any of the gaskets during this procedure. The valve cover and spark plug hole gaskets were all still in good condition, and nothing is leaking yet.
Good job
Thanks man.
Excellent work friend. Congratulations. I noticed that the camshaft is very clean. What engine oil have you used?
I use Rotella T4 -- the 15W40 dino oil. It's relatively inexpensive, so it doesn't break the bank to change it often. I was super happy to see that the camshafts looked like they were in good shape! Would have been disheartening to see pitting.
@@matttriestodothings excellent friend. Thanks for your answer. In fact, by changing the oil more often the engine will always be cleaner. Not to mention that diesel engine oils have more detergent, which characterizes cleaner engines.
I have this same bike that I pucked up took apart. I dont know where all the fuel vacuum lines go and I'm looking for a video showing where all of em go
Hmm.. I'm not sure that I have one that specifically shows them. Luckily, this bike is (relatively) simple in that regard. Best video I have that sorta shows them is here to remove the carburetor. th-cam.com/video/5fT026Yd7_I/w-d-xo.html
Anyway, there are two vacuum lines. Carb 1 and 2 will be capped on the vacuum nipples. Carb 3 will have a 3/16" vacuum line that runs from the carb vacuum nipple to the PAIR system. This is that big mess of hoses over the #3 spark plug area even with the top of the frame. It injects cold air into the exhaust. The second vacuum line will run from the vacuum nipple on carburetor #4 to the petcock on the bottom of the gas tank. It's vacuum operated, so it should only pull gas when the bike is running.
Fuel line is the easiest because there's barely any. There's about a 8-10" run from the fuel outlet petcock on the bottom of the fuel tank and it connects to the fuel inlet in the middle of the carburetor. This is 5/16" fuel line.
Additionally, your tank has a vent and overflow line coming from the upper right bottom of the tank. These route through the bike and down to the ground. I honestly haven't bothered replacing mine yet, so I've been running without.
Hopefully that helps some. If not, check out the Suzuki bandit forum (Suzukibandit.co.uk or something) that has a ton of good information and people willing to help.
Did you have any problems removing any of the cam cover bolts ?...like the one at the very front under the headstock ?.
Mines seized ...local bike shop has just spent half a day trying to remove it and failed .
Have you any tips at all ?.
I did not on this bike. If you want to know how I dealt with a stripped cam guide bolt... Check the last one minute of my sv650 valve adjustment video. It involves me throwing a hammer and damn near exploding my laptop. I was furious. Those bolts are supposed to be like 6ft-lbs tight.
Oh, I got it out by hammering in the absolute tightest fitting Allen I could. If I had a torx, I'd have used that. Then I hooked it up to my impact WRENCH, not driver, wrench, and I hit it as hard as possible. Then it came out.
@@matttriestodothings thanks for your reply , I'm going to try a tight fitting torx bit to start with.
But the bolt I'm trying to remove is the 8mm or 10mm one right at the front of the engine underneath the headstock and it's difficult to put any load on it be a use of lack of headroom.
If that doesn't work I think I'm going to grind of drill the head off ,that should release the cam cover ,then try to remove the remaining stub.after .
@@kevinspalding5470 ahh, shoot I thought you were talking about a different bolt. That's pretty crazy that the valve cover bolt on yours is that stuck in there since it still isn't supposed to be a highly torqued bolt--the gasket does the seeling, not the tightness of the bolts.
Honestly if you haven't yet, I'd probably shoot the question over on a dedicated bandit forum. If there's any chance of getting an impact wrench on it with a tight fitting Allen bit, that's probably the best bet. If not, and you need to drill, I'd think about what precautions are necessary to make sure no shavings end up falling into the valve train and engine.
Good luck man. That's a shitty problem to have to deal with. Hopefully it pops out soon for you.
Did you have trouble actually separating the valve cover from the head? I tried to get mine off the other week and it seems to be welded to the head and nothing will get it off bar prying it with a screwdriver (which I havent done)
Yes I did. I shot a longer vid that showed it, but figured nobody would want to see a 45 minute valve adjustment video. Getting to the valves took longer than the actual job.
I went all around it tapping with a soft mallet. Tap tap tap. Now, it's sitting on dowels if I remember correctly, so don't go blasting it.
I'm working on syncing the carb on my interceptor now.. But I can go back and look how I did it. I think I may have been able to wedge a screwdriver and tap it open.
Re-watching the video I took. I just went around and tapped with a soft mallet to try to loosen hit. However, there were two bolts I missed at first, and I was trying to pull it off (dumb, obviously, but double check). I was then able to wrestle it off just by pulling up hard.
It's like a 9GB video. I can upload it later tonight and post a link with a timestamp for you. I should probably do it anyway since I took the time to film and edit it. I'll just add it as a link-only video.
The relevant point of the video is right at 20 minutes once I get it uploaded.
Alright. Go to 20:00 minutes in on this video, and you'll see how I got it removed.
th-cam.com/video/WWQHyqpXkfQ/w-d-xo.html
It was my VF that I had to use a screwdriver and tapping to remove... Thats why it was in my head.
Thank you!
I have the same bike it is having a starting issue I can’t get it to start I pulled the head off replaced the head gasket did the timing never adjusted the valves tho you think that’s why it might not start
I wouldn't think the valves would be the reason it wouldn't start, though they may contribute to it running poorly. I would venture to guess it's a fuel delivery issue if you haven't resolved it yet. Sorry on the late response--I let this one slip through the cracks. Hope you were able to get it sorted out.
i have the same bike and used this video as reference to adjust my valves. i noticed there is a fluid sitting in a pool on the side of the 1st and 4th valves. is this normal?
Good question. Unfortunately, I don't know enough about these engines to tell you what is and isn't normal. You're likely to find oil all up in everything, but I don't *think there will be substantial pooling. Wish I could be of more use Ryan. Might want to post that question to BanditForum or similar so someone with more knowledge can help you out.
I had the same fluid sitting in my head.
Is the procedur the same adjusting the valve clearance vise on the bandit 650 k5...got new seals and valve cover seal beacause i head some samall leaking on some bolts
I would bet the procedure looks nearly the same; however, I can't confirm that because I've never worked on one of the fuel-injected Bandits. I'm not sure what engine modifications there were between the 600 and 650 besides the obvious displacement change.
@@matttriestodothings Hi... already did it... after opening it, I found out everything was within the tolerance, oh and its not a liquid cooled model, its air/oil cooled with the same carbs as yours... I think they did the 650 version for only 2 years... mine is 2005 and has 83 000 km :)...tnx for the video,it really helped :)
@@Mctigel ohhhhh shoot, that's right, my bad! I forgot the 600 -> 650 change coincide from the switch from carburetors to fuel injection. Sorry about that.
Good deal on finding everything within tolerance! That's quite a few miles on the bike. And thanks for the feedback--glad it was useful.
Is the gasket sealant you used a grease or a silicon gasket forming glue like substance.
It's more of a sticky gasket forming surface. And I try to use less now (less compared to the vid) because you don't want any of it squishing off on the inside, hardening up, and making it's way into an oil passage to block the passage.
Hondabond High-Temp Silicone Liquid Gasket
Tomorrow I'm gonna do it!
The valve cover gasket was leaking and I'll adjust the valves as it's already open...
Btw, just cleaned the carburetors and this week I'll reinstall it and do the sync.
Good luck dude! If you've already gotten the valve cover off, you've already competed the toughest part. Just make sure to measure a few times when you're done to be certain, and you'll be good to go.
@@matttriestodothings valves are fine, but I'm having a hard time with the carburetors... 😫😫😫😫😫😫
@@tuntatis You need to read them a story to calm them down. Usually at night. I prefer "Goodnight Moon".
What's wrong with the carbs? And go figure, the carburetors are the problem on a Suzuki Bandit. Most finicky carburetors I've ever set my eyes on.
@@matttriestodothings they are already tuned, but the first one started.leaking... then I disassembled and changed the buoy needle valve (that stops the fuel from overflowing) of all 4 and now it's.leaking on the 4th carb...
@@matttriestodothings Now I finally managed to stop all leaks, but the bike is completely bitchy at low rpms... 😫😫😫
Tricky carbs... It's something to test your patience and faith!
How many miles on the bike?
I believe it's around 13,000 miles at this point. Maybe a few hundred less.
Essex, in the U.K..... The new E10 fuel is bad (Bandit K4 600). I've not used it since the bike ran badly on it. Also, just wanted to say, not a bad idea to change the fuel-filter & air-filter while the tank is off. Personally, I'd do an oil/oil-filter change after this job as well. Also, don't be a BAD-CHUMP!.... Make sure you use GENUINE Suzuki ... From a dealership! Adjust your clutch regularly. Heated grips and gloves to scrape the ice off your seat before you leave!
You guys also have carburetor heaters over there--we don't in the states. It really confused me for a while trying to figure out where in the world to connect the unused electrical connector to.. lol.
For the air filter I've tried both the HifloFiltro and OEM and couldn't feel any discernable difference. About 2000 miles on the Hiflo and 1000 on the OEM. Suzuki dealerships are few and far between near me. Heated grips would be nice. My only issue with them (I have them on a VStrom) is their width. I feel like I have less control of the bars with the bigger grips.
Can see the air-filter, but not inside the fuel & oil-filter... Just my preference. I'm a complete novice compared to you dude. FOR the Bandit Brethren... Managed to fit Oxford's Heated Touring Grips to Renthal Handlebars. Have the original bar end weights on the end as well... You just swap the Renthal bar end fittings over onto the original weighty ones.. The Renthal ones weigh nothing!
@@ReggieChump heated grips are such a nice luxury. Unfortunately it's snowing right now, and... I saw them salt the roads yesterday. gah. it's real now. I'm stuck inside.
@@matttriestodothings You're a good bloke, Matt. Hope the VFR is going soon and the snow is gone. Still riding the Bandit through the Winter here (saves me unloading the tool's from the car). I'm hoping you'll get another Bandit 600 and do some more videos.... Not holding my breath though!
@@ReggieChump thanks Reggie, I appreciate it. I'll get the VFR working--everything is a learning process with these bikes! If I ever get a shot at a 1200 Bandit, there may be another one at some point. I'm really curious to know what the extra 600ccs does, hah.
Where are you getting the specs , im trying to get it for a different bike
These came out of a Clymer manual. If you can find a copy of the factory manual for your bike, that's the best place to get the valve clearance specifications from.
Thanks bud
I did mine on my katana on the loose side and now there a lot of clatter...so i gotta do it again and im going towards tight side...what a pain tho taking everything off
Yep. The tricky (time-consuming) part is just the disassembly and reassembly. It always goes faster in subsequent attempts but also gets more frustrating!
@@matttriestodothings got it perfect the 2nd time...runs waayy better now...hopefully good for a while
@@GMXR7 That's great to hear! I bet you'll be set for a good while.
Why not remove the spark plugs to make it easier to roll over the engine?
In all honesty? Because I forgot to remove the other three after I removed the first one. I didn't realize it until a few days later when I was rewatching the video.. Good catch. I even told myself I was going to do so and had the spark plug wrench out.
Lol, typical brain fart! I get that too
@@nathanblanchard987 Hah, that's basically every day for me. Just stumbling after every brain fart into the next one! You have to break a few eggs to make an omelet though; hopefully I'm learning something here. I appreciate the feedback Nathan.
No problem Matt. I've broken a lot of eggs as a licensed automotive technician
great video, I've got a 2005 gsx 750f katana and having trouble finding the valve clearance specs for it..
Thanks man. They should normally publish the clearances in the "maintenance" or "intro" section of your bike's manual. I know that's the catch-all easy-way-out of explaining it, but without being familiar with your specific bike, I don't want to guess.
what about reusing the existing gasket
@@WiggSplitter75 if you're talking about the valve cover gasket, reusing it shouldn't be an issue as long as it hasn't been damaged. I've only ever replaced a valve cover gasket on one of my bikes (1984 Honda vf500f), and it really didn't need it.
@@matttriestodothings thanks bro, I've never done vales before until now,i probably should use gasket sealer on it.. thoughts.. gasket seems to be in good shape and didn't notice any cracks
@@WiggSplitter75 99% you're not going to need any gasket sealer. The only spots the could need it are the "half moon" or "mickey mouse" areas. And quite frankly, if the gasket is in good shape, I think you actually introduce more risk by using gasket sealer for fear of a piece of it falling off and getting into the oiling pathways.
You'll know when you fire it up. Congrats on doing a job that would have cost you a pretty penny and also probably learning a bunch about your machine!
Be thankful here not under the bucket shims. Like on my 94 GSXR motor.
Ohhhh you bet your ass I'm thankful. I'll be doing my first shim-under-bucket valve clearance check on an SV650 this winter, and I'm already dreading it. Got my fingers crossed tight that the clearances are within spec!
@@matttriestodothings When ya get old like me. The # on the back of the shims look mighty small.
Where do you buy your parts?
Depends. OEM I usually use Partzilla. Lot of ebay. Hardware store. Harbor freight. Revzilla and cycle world. Just depends.
@@matttriestodothings Thank you! I've recently acquired a Bandit 600 and several of the parts websites only list the GSF1200 and 1200s. It's been a bit frustrating to say the least trying to find a good selection of 600 parts.
все верно и не надо никакие метки выставлять развел кулаки и регулируй на здоровье
I put this into Google Translate, and the result I got is: "
Everything is correct and you don’t need to put any marks spread your fists and adjust to your health"
Agreed wholeheartedly.
@@matttriestodothings I just wrote that this is an easy way.I do it myself
@@taikmaison894 ah, alright! Sorry for the slow response. Cheers, Taik.