I wish you slowed down for a minute and explained what all the scrambling around with the wires and told us at the end what each wire location does on your alternator 😢
The regulator you chose requires a solid mechanical/thermal bond from the shiny, back-side of the regulator to a surface that will absorb the heat made by the regulator. Without that heatsink, the regulator will probably fail under load.
I don't think that's true. It had no such bond as installed on the Ford alternator I removed it from and it continues to work after 3 years in it's current application.
Sir can you help me to understand why and how capacitors change alternators out put voltage amps or starting charge rpm? I folowed some guy Okki on youtube and tryed out plasma ignition simpel multipel hv ceramic capacitors in series soldered together 1 side goes to ignition coil + the other to switch or directly to baterry ground. That staff is nice and works great on centrain fuel types smuth motor faster spining starter motor and other devices seam to work bether as well. How ever 1 problem acured doing so me alternator who is delco 12si europ version is constantly back chargeing true the bulb,the bulb it self wont stop glowing until I rev up engine then alternator charges baterry but wont charge in normal 1000rpm range like normali. So what do I need to do to fix that problem? It is some thing similar like those cheap tractor alternators they have also capacitors on them if they also fail alternator wont charge . So Im confused here do capacitors play a rolle to tell the voltage regulator when to charge and how much to charge? And is there centrain equation that can be used to calculate what I need to do to make me alternator work normali or manuali programe me voltage regulator with capacitor/resistor box? I did notice me excite wire does bypass the diode in the dash board via the warning engine light GM made fatal mistake there I suppose . But this effect with hv capacitors confuse me its unusual behaviore. Me baterry is normali around 15-16volts. Only that starting charge is me problem for now.
Hmm, it's hard to diagnose a problem without knowing the exact circuit, but your issue sounds like the same thing you see if some of the diodes in the alternator are bad.
@@JakevonSlatt Im in proces dismanteling me entire wire harmest.Yes its similar to diode leak but insted those hv capacitors interact with the 1 wire alternator voltage regulator. Me internel diode in the dashboard is bypassed and that alternator does cinde of interact with xenon bulbs,dual filament bulbs and I do have multipel relays 2pin head lights on buzzer:3pin blinker;4pin rear windscreen ;6pin windscreen wiper all those relays some how interact with the alternator as well so Im confused where to put diodes expecialy the 4 pin relay for rear heater and 3pin blinker relays do strange effects when thir internal diodes get leaky all me relays are ic chip controled and they alredy have internal diodes and resistors they all are Hella relays. When relays start to draw current when vehecel is off from blinker relay I get buzz coil effect engine works in union with blinker relay if all 4 blinker work seperate event was If I leave the 4 pin relay its leaky draws current over night and the car self acelerates its carbureted engine metalic springs get contrapted if to close to metalic air filter I do not have ballast circuet for xenon bulbs so nearly that 4 pin relay and xenon bulb with rear heater element act identical to wacum tubes. The blinker problem I found out it was corroded bulb holder back side leading to ground wire and me key ignition switch black wire started to burn. I can make wire diagram if you want Im in proces to make cloosed loop system and protect me relays and make seperate circuets for each peace of equpment. The other problems I can fix some how I belive with virtual ground but the alternator is still confuseing to me I belive I will try out cloosed loop voltage regulator circuet I will try to control the alternator manuali to see if thats the problem . Those effects are small but they cause lot damage to vehecel. So I wuld like to see what diode rating I shuld use for each relay or alternator diode on the fiels Im not shure what zener diodes culd do honestly.
Doesn't some aftermarket company make a simple external regulator that works with all alternators?? All alternators basically work the same. Voltage regulator adjust the field current to the rotor through the slip rings. That's all they do...
Wouldn't that be nice? There are some old-school external regulators that might fit the bill but they tend to be expensive and there's still the problem of interfacing it to an alternator that was not designed for it.
I was able to replace alternator and battery with new ones but still not charging battery. I disconnect battery and engine turns off, I check with meter and reads 12.5 v with engine on but that's what the battery reads too so nothing higher when engine is on. Can this regulator prevent power or alternator from charging battery?
Most modern alternators have built-in regulators, this video is kind of a hack, it won’t help you fix your particular alternator. In general, the first thing to look at when you have automotive electrical problems is that all of the ground connections are in good shape.
I have a Town and Country minivan and my alternator stopped working I replace alternator but still not working I want to bypass PCM / computer because I just need the battery to charge. I have an external voltage regulator and I can get power from fuse box that turns on when the key is on. It should work but it's not Alternator is new and checked and voltage regulator is new too. But still not charging I am missing something, but I don't know what. Can you help me? I will generously make a donation to you. Thanks
Hi Jake. I hope it's all smiles your end. I live free range on a canal boat in England. Which means no mains electrical power. I require 800 Watts for a water distiller. So is it possible to adapt an alternator to produce the Watts required at a low rpm engine speed please?. Thanks in advance if you would be as kind as to answer this question 😎
I've spent about 15 weeks of my life over the years on narrowboats, it's the best! I'm assuming that's 800 watts at 240 volts? The challenge here is going to be voltage. If you give the armature a full 12 volts you only get about 60-80 volts out. I've done this to use an alternator as a welder so there's no issue making that much power (watts) but the distiller won't draw enough at only 80 volts and alternators run at too high a frequency to use a regular transformer to increase the voltage. This is all assuming a bodge where the alternator is connected directly to the distiller and the distiller has no electronic controls. Would it be possible to modify the distiller to use heat from the exhaust manifold? Otherwise a big crank pulley and a small alternator pulley and an inverter are probably your best bet.
i think you have it backwards.ifyour diodes are rated for 60 amps and the regulator is rated for 250 amps, you will fry them as soon as you demand more current than they can handle.as long as you arent adding any devices to the car, youll probably be ok, but youre asking for worse problems doing this ,perhaps a fire even. using bigger diodes than your regulator will protect everything, but not the other way around. good luck to you regardless
The regulator is *from* a 250 amp alternator but it really plays no role in what current this unit can deliver, it just keeps the output voltage at about 13 volts by adjusting the field current. Were I to add, say, a bank of halogen off road lights that drew 70 amps the only consequence is that the "car" would draw 10 amps from the battery and 60 from the alternator, because that's all the alternator can push at 13 volts. Anyway, this is the alternator for my welder so it only needs to provide about 10 amps to the field of the 250 alternator I weld with.
@@JakevonSlatt regulators regulate voltage by changing resistance, which changes current. Welding with this setup for a few seconds at a time may not be of any consequence, but using the battery as a capacitor and constantly drawing an extra 10 amps from it will definitely bear consequences. All I'm saying is that your diodes ,coils and brushes( and battery for that matter)should be more capable than your regulator.
@@brianleonard6879 The regulator just controls current to the field coils, and it does it not with resistance like old school external regulators, but with pulse width modulation. If the field coil is smaller it makes no difference at all, the regulator is not going to provide an excess of current, it's just going to provide enough current to get the output voltage to 13 volts. The welder has TWO alternators, this one just charges the battery and provides field current to the "weldernator". It's a 60 amp unit so it has no trouble doing this. I've welded for hours on 2" steel plate with this machine, it works.
yes but the alternator has a fan the pushes air into it to cool its parts were an external regulator does not a modern one may have a heatsink but the ones on classic cars tractors and things do not so when they stop working the alt. overcharges the battery
I don't know what DF is but that's basically what this video is about, figuring out how the the pins of the ford regulator coincide with the Toyota alternator and I see no reason one couldn't do the same with an external regulator
@@JakevonSlatt I believe it stands for dynamo field. Supposed to give info to an external regulator about the charging. My problem is I do not know where to take it out on alternators that have stock internal regulator. My external regulator states that internal regulator must be disabled, and one of the leds must be connected to "DF".
@@raymondkarlsen9995 Ah! In that case it's going to be connected to one of the slip rings on the rotor. The other slip ring connects to D+ and, at least on this Toyotas alternator, it doesn't matter which ring is which.
ForFor repairing and to know how this module working I need the schematic circuit diagram part number this module is alternator control unit 269A4985? repairing and to know how this module working I need the schematic
2:11 welder?? i'm talking about the red plus and black minus coming out of the car battery. they look a bit undersized (thin) fo that battery. but you can judge it better then me watching the real thing. check they don't make too resistence and heat. couple of fuses would be a good idea, especially from alternator to battery, any car has one.
@@spiritualcramp8000 Oh I see! yeah, this is a small 4 cylinder engine from a 1946 Austin that now runs an engine driven welder. The batter is a lawn tractor battery and the only thing it ever does is start the engine so yeah the wire is a bit skinny but is fine for this application.
@@spiritualcramp8000 It's a crazy 1950's home-build that I resurrected! I call it the Ratwelder and did a video on it here: th-cam.com/video/HXyCBcAfamY/w-d-xo.html
I wish you slowed down for a minute and explained what all the scrambling around with the wires and told us at the end what each wire location does on your alternator 😢
Hi , i just fixed my alternator copying your fix . Thanks for your help . H.
That's awesome!
The regulator you chose requires a solid mechanical/thermal bond from the shiny, back-side of the regulator to a surface that will absorb the heat made by the regulator. Without that heatsink, the regulator will probably fail under load.
I don't think that's true. It had no such bond as installed on the Ford alternator I removed it from and it continues to work after 3 years in it's current application.
Great tip! That thing look VERY stempunk inside when You removed the cover by the way... :)
I think that's not a resistor, but the resistance across a working instrument light cluster.
Seems easier with a ford regulator? I might have to try since I can't find way to fix mine cheap.
Sir can you help me to understand why and how capacitors change alternators out put voltage amps or starting charge rpm?
I folowed some guy Okki on youtube and tryed out plasma ignition simpel multipel hv ceramic capacitors in series soldered together 1 side goes to ignition coil + the other to switch or directly to baterry ground.
That staff is nice and works great on centrain fuel types smuth motor faster spining starter motor and other devices seam to work bether as well.
How ever 1 problem acured doing so me alternator who is delco 12si europ version is constantly back chargeing true the bulb,the bulb it self wont stop glowing until I rev up engine then alternator charges baterry but wont charge in normal 1000rpm range like normali.
So what do I need to do to fix that problem?
It is some thing similar like those cheap tractor alternators they have also capacitors on them if they also fail alternator wont charge .
So Im confused here do capacitors play a rolle to tell the voltage regulator when to charge and how much to charge?
And is there centrain equation that can be used to calculate what I need to do to make me alternator work normali or manuali programe me voltage regulator with capacitor/resistor box?
I did notice me excite wire does bypass the diode in the dash board via the warning engine light GM made fatal mistake there I suppose .
But this effect with hv capacitors confuse me its unusual behaviore.
Me baterry is normali around 15-16volts.
Only that starting charge is me problem for now.
Hmm, it's hard to diagnose a problem without knowing the exact circuit, but your issue sounds like the same thing you see if some of the diodes in the alternator are bad.
@@JakevonSlatt Im in proces dismanteling me entire wire harmest.Yes its similar to diode leak but insted those hv capacitors interact with the 1 wire alternator voltage regulator.
Me internel diode in the dashboard is bypassed and that alternator does cinde of interact with xenon bulbs,dual filament bulbs and I do have multipel relays 2pin head lights on buzzer:3pin blinker;4pin rear windscreen ;6pin windscreen wiper all those relays some how interact with the alternator as well so Im confused where to put diodes expecialy the 4 pin relay for rear heater and 3pin blinker relays do strange effects when thir internal diodes get leaky all me relays are ic chip controled and they alredy have internal diodes and resistors they all are Hella relays.
When relays start to draw current when vehecel is off from blinker relay I get buzz coil effect engine works in union with blinker relay if all 4 blinker work seperate event was If I leave the 4 pin relay its leaky draws current over night and the car self acelerates its carbureted engine metalic springs get contrapted if to close to metalic air filter I do not have ballast circuet for xenon bulbs so nearly that 4 pin relay and xenon bulb with rear heater element act identical to wacum tubes.
The blinker problem I found out it was corroded bulb holder back side leading to ground wire and me key ignition switch black wire started to burn.
I can make wire diagram if you want Im in proces to make cloosed loop system and protect me relays and make seperate circuets for each peace of equpment.
The other problems I can fix some how I belive with virtual ground but the alternator is still confuseing to me I belive I will try out cloosed loop voltage regulator circuet I will try to control the alternator manuali to see if thats the problem .
Those effects are small but they cause lot damage to vehecel.
So I wuld like to see what diode rating I shuld use for each relay or alternator diode on the fiels Im not shure what zener diodes culd do honestly.
Doesn't some aftermarket company make a simple external regulator that works with all alternators?? All alternators basically work the same. Voltage regulator adjust the field current to the rotor through the slip rings. That's all they do...
Wouldn't that be nice? There are some old-school external regulators that might fit the bill but they tend to be expensive and there's still the problem of interfacing it to an alternator that was not designed for it.
It'll work with any alternator you just might have to get in and modify it
I was able to replace alternator and battery with new ones but still not charging battery. I disconnect battery and engine turns off, I check with meter and reads 12.5 v with engine on but that's what the battery reads too so nothing higher when engine is on. Can this regulator prevent power or alternator from charging battery?
Most modern alternators have built-in regulators, this video is kind of a hack, it won’t help you fix your particular alternator. In general, the first thing to look at when you have automotive electrical problems is that all of the ground connections are in good shape.
I have a Town and Country minivan and my alternator stopped working I replace alternator but still not working I want to bypass PCM / computer because I just need the battery to charge.
I have an external voltage regulator and I can get power from fuse box that turns on when the key is on. It should work but it's not Alternator is new and checked and voltage regulator is new too.
But still not charging I am missing something, but I don't know what. Can you help me? I will generously make a donation to you. Thanks
Hi Jake. I hope it's all smiles your end. I live free range on a canal boat in England. Which means no mains electrical power. I require 800 Watts for a water distiller. So is it possible to adapt an alternator to produce the Watts required at a low rpm engine speed please?.
Thanks in advance if you would be as kind as to answer this question 😎
I've spent about 15 weeks of my life over the years on narrowboats, it's the best! I'm assuming that's 800 watts at 240 volts? The challenge here is going to be voltage. If you give the armature a full 12 volts you only get about 60-80 volts out. I've done this to use an alternator as a welder so there's no issue making that much power (watts) but the distiller won't draw enough at only 80 volts and alternators run at too high a frequency to use a regular transformer to increase the voltage. This is all assuming a bodge where the alternator is connected directly to the distiller and the distiller has no electronic controls.
Would it be possible to modify the distiller to use heat from the exhaust manifold? Otherwise a big crank pulley and a small alternator pulley and an inverter are probably your best bet.
Man thank you for this
Can you do a video how to use it on a wind turbine please?
Resistors in parallel Divide! 100 ohms + 100 ohms in parallel = 50 ohms! Resistors in series add! 100 ohms = 100 ohms in series = 200 ohms.
That is indeed correct. I suspect I was referring to resistor wattage, which adds in parallel.
Boa noite, da para disponibilizar a referência do regulador
It’s from a Ford high amp alternator, they are pretty much all the same, a 2007 Ford Crown Victoria would have this regulator.
i think you have it backwards.ifyour diodes are rated for 60 amps and the regulator is rated for 250 amps, you will fry them as soon as you demand more current than they can handle.as long as you arent adding any devices to the car, youll probably be ok, but youre asking for worse problems doing this ,perhaps a fire even. using bigger diodes than your regulator will protect everything, but not the other way around. good luck to you regardless
The regulator is *from* a 250 amp alternator but it really plays no role in what current this unit can deliver, it just keeps the output voltage at about 13 volts by adjusting the field current. Were I to add, say, a bank of halogen off road lights that drew 70 amps the only consequence is that the "car" would draw 10 amps from the battery and 60 from the alternator, because that's all the alternator can push at 13 volts.
Anyway, this is the alternator for my welder so it only needs to provide about 10 amps to the field of the 250 alternator I weld with.
@@JakevonSlatt regulators regulate voltage by changing resistance, which changes current. Welding with this setup for a few seconds at a time may not be of any consequence, but using the battery as a capacitor and constantly drawing an extra 10 amps from it will definitely bear consequences. All I'm saying is that your diodes ,coils and brushes( and battery for that matter)should be more capable than your regulator.
@@brianleonard6879 The regulator just controls current to the field coils, and it does it not with resistance like old school external regulators, but with pulse width modulation. If the field coil is smaller it makes no difference at all, the regulator is not going to provide an excess of current, it's just going to provide enough current to get the output voltage to 13 volts. The welder has TWO alternators, this one just charges the battery and provides field current to the "weldernator". It's a 60 amp unit so it has no trouble doing this. I've welded for hours on 2" steel plate with this machine, it works.
I wish I could work that fast!
Hi mate - might be a long shot but do you remember what model the regulator came from?
It came off of one of these: amazon.com/gp/product/B007G8R86I
Does heat kill internal regulators? If so, would doing an external regulator benefit the longevity of the alternator?
yes but the alternator has a fan the pushes air into it to cool its parts were an external regulator does not a modern one may have a heatsink but the ones on classic cars tractors and things do not so when they stop working the alt. overcharges the battery
Is the lamp also include on ignition pin meaning ignition switch to the dash? This is making me confused because my stock internal regulator has 4 pin
I'd have to see some sort of diagram to be sure, but I think the answer to your question is, yes it is.
Do you know how to modify alternators to work with external regulators? Disabling the stock one, and where to take out DF ?
I don't know what DF is but that's basically what this video is about, figuring out how the the pins of the ford regulator coincide with the Toyota alternator and I see no reason one couldn't do the same with an external regulator
@@JakevonSlatt I believe it stands for dynamo field. Supposed to give info to an external regulator about the charging. My problem is I do not know where to take it out on alternators that have stock internal regulator. My external regulator states that internal regulator must be disabled, and one of the leds must be connected to "DF".
@@raymondkarlsen9995 Ah! In that case it's going to be connected to one of the slip rings on the rotor. The other slip ring connects to D+ and, at least on this Toyotas alternator, it doesn't matter which ring is which.
ForFor repairing and to know how this module working I need the schematic circuit diagram part number this module is alternator control unit 269A4985?
repairing and to know how this module working I need the schematic
Hello sir
How to make india japan border voltage
Would have been great if you didn't fast forward through all the how to stuff
Great info, but would be better if you practised what you needed to say rather than tried to do it off the cuff. Uhm ahh aah uum uum etc.
I have no desire to ever do that! I make videos of what I do, I don't do things to make videos.
it's too much for my basic knowledge. Anyway, you know so much how come you have that mini positive cable on the battery? mm... no good.
Not sure what you're referring to, do you mean on the welder?
2:11 welder?? i'm talking about the red plus and black minus coming out of the car battery. they look a bit undersized (thin) fo that battery. but you can judge it better then me watching the real thing. check they don't make too resistence and heat. couple of fuses would be a good idea, especially from alternator to battery, any car has one.
@@spiritualcramp8000 Oh I see! yeah, this is a small 4 cylinder engine from a 1946 Austin that now runs an engine driven welder. The batter is a lawn tractor battery and the only thing it ever does is start the engine so yeah the wire is a bit skinny but is fine for this application.
well, now i get it. i thought it was for a car. sure ok for that app. just curious about the welder, it might be a huge one.
@@spiritualcramp8000 It's a crazy 1950's home-build that I resurrected! I call it the Ratwelder and did a video on it here: th-cam.com/video/HXyCBcAfamY/w-d-xo.html