when you push the squeegee your angle is opposite 20angle lays down thinner deposits of ink and when your angle is closer to 90 then it deposits more ink, it's the inverse of pulling . and if you push on one screen and pull on the next put a post it note so you see it and remember, especially when you are doing it for more than a day.
Ryan, allow me to give you a suggestion. The first and perhaps most important thing to understand is that the ink is not transferred by pushing the ink through the mesh, but through a capillary action when the wet ink comes into contact with the dry substrate. You don't need any more pressure than to place the bottom of the mesh into contact with the substrate. This is enough pressure to add a bit more ink into the mesh opening and transfer the ink properly. You can see this in action by lowering the screen over a shirt, make a fill stroke and then use your finger to push the mesh down to the shirt. You can try different pressures with your finger and see that extreme pressure is not needed to transfer ink.
The key with flooding is you just want to make sure and fill your stencil but not pull (or push) a print stroke. An easy way to make sure you're not printing when you flood is to pull it up off the platen when you do it. Sometimes you don't need to do that depending on what ink you're working with and what kind of mesh.
80d squeegee blade for pushing. push for fine halftones, high detail on an under-base, 4 clr process, over sized prints or if the screen isn't releasing from your print... which is usually caused by screen tension, off contact or ink viscosity. if unable to adjust any of these issues i would push.
I have an older Ryonet exposure unit. I big grey metal box with a metal lid and 8 bulbs. I'm having the hardest time dialing that sucker in. I'm a year in and feel like I am just starting.
Thank you for the good illustration to me. Im still a screen-printing learner and l do not have the rotating screen printing machine. it was more wise if l can get a second hand one from the famous screen printers at affordable prices. Waiting to learn more from you.
Hi, there. I know I'm late into screen printing. Your video is totally great. I want to ask a common question. How much pressure when printing with waterbased ink? If I'll do 2 hit printing and using off contact. For the first hit, should I do medium pressure with the squeege? To make sure the ink down to the shirt? And the second hit, should I do with less pressure and make sure there's no ink left on the screen? I'm still confused, due to I use waterbased ink like Matsui that has thick ink character. I hope I'll get kind response and tips from you all there. Thank you!
Good question, Afrido. While I would say everyone is going to do something a little different, i would suggest doing two firm passes (if two are needed). Once you get that technique nailed down, then start experimenting with one firm pass and then a second lighter pass if it's even applicable... but overall two firm passes should be good. Also experiment with pushing or pulling the squeegee to make sure you are getting the most effective use of your efforts. Hope this helps! Happy Printing!
@@Ryonet thank you for the response and the tips! I'm still trying to get the match technique when printing with waterbased. Trial and error come together. Love the process. Once again, thank you so much!
I have an older Ryonet exposure unit. A big grey metal box with a metal lid and 8 bulbs. I'm having the hardest time dialing that sucker in. I'm a year in and feel like I am just starting.
Thanks x1000. This video is extremely helpful. I've been experiencing a lot of difficulty with my printing (blurry and too much ink) but feel that can now get some great prints with your tips!
There are a lot of large format textile printers out there with more detailed advise but definitely set yourself up with a production station with rollers and large tables. We specialize in apparel printing so the format is a bit different!
When you push a squeege and load the ink into the back can you still flood it by pulling? also when you occasionally lift the screen up off the tee to flood it why do you do that and when is it necessary?
you can flood pushing or pulling, and I normally lift the screen when I flood because sometimes our manual might have less off contact from one screen to the other, and you don't lay down ink at the wrong moment, beginners should practice that. when I started my strokes were too long and slopped into the back of the frame creating a mess the more you print the better you get, as long as you are pay attention to what you are doing.
![How to Screen Print at home [ Pushing vs Pulling a Squeegee ] Screen Printing Tips and tricks](/img/n.gif)
Thank you very much... I appreciate you sharing this with us. Yes indeed, I have made the mistake of pulling then pushing and messed up everything.
It's our pleasure to help! It takes time to perfect your technique and it's different for everyone.
when you push the squeegee your angle is opposite 20angle lays down thinner deposits of ink and when your angle is closer to 90 then it deposits more ink, it's the inverse of pulling . and if you push on one screen and pull on the next put a post it note so you see it and remember, especially when you are doing it for more than a day.
Ryan, allow me to give you a suggestion. The first and perhaps most important thing to understand is that the ink is not transferred by pushing the ink through the mesh, but through a capillary action when the wet ink comes into contact with the dry substrate. You don't need any more pressure than to place the bottom of the mesh into contact with the substrate. This is enough pressure to add a bit more ink into the mesh opening and transfer the ink properly. You can see this in action by lowering the screen over a shirt, make a fill stroke and then use your finger to push the mesh down to the shirt. You can try different pressures with your finger and see that extreme pressure is not needed to transfer ink.
G. William Hood Thanks! This was a really helpful distinction in understanding the strokes/pressure needed.
The key with flooding is you just want to make sure and fill your stencil but not pull (or push) a print stroke. An easy way to make sure you're not printing when you flood is to pull it up off the platen when you do it. Sometimes you don't need to do that depending on what ink you're working with and what kind of mesh.
Good info. Can I get screen printing squeegee degrees technique video please ?
80d squeegee blade for pushing.
push for fine halftones, high detail on an under-base, 4 clr process, over sized prints or if the screen isn't releasing from your print... which is usually caused by screen tension, off contact or ink viscosity. if unable to adjust any of these issues i would push.
Screen printing is testing my patients. Have a brand new set up, but my exposure unit is weak. My paints are union ink plastisols. This helps,thanks
Hancock Screenprinting Try some curable reducer too in that ink, it works wonders :) www.silkscreeningsupplies.com/product/IC1110LFQ
I have an older Ryonet exposure unit. I big grey metal box with a metal lid and 8 bulbs. I'm having the hardest time dialing that sucker in. I'm a year in and feel like I am just starting.
Thank you for the good illustration to me. Im still a screen-printing learner and l do not have the rotating screen printing machine. it was more wise if l can get a second hand one from the famous screen printers at affordable prices. Waiting to learn more from you.
Hi, there. I know I'm late into screen printing. Your video is totally great. I want to ask a common question. How much pressure when printing with waterbased ink? If I'll do 2 hit printing and using off contact. For the first hit, should I do medium pressure with the squeege? To make sure the ink down to the shirt? And the second hit, should I do with less pressure and make sure there's no ink left on the screen? I'm still confused, due to I use waterbased ink like Matsui that has thick ink character. I hope I'll get kind response and tips from you all there. Thank you!
Good question, Afrido. While I would say everyone is going to do something a little different, i would suggest doing two firm passes (if two are needed). Once you get that technique nailed down, then start experimenting with one firm pass and then a second lighter pass if it's even applicable... but overall two firm passes should be good. Also experiment with pushing or pulling the squeegee to make sure you are getting the most effective use of your efforts. Hope this helps! Happy Printing!
@@Ryonet thank you for the response and the tips! I'm still trying to get the match technique when printing with waterbased. Trial and error come together. Love the process. Once again, thank you so much!
Afrido, keep up the learning!
I have an older Ryonet exposure unit. A big grey metal box with a metal lid and 8 bulbs. I'm having the hardest time dialing that sucker in. I'm a year in and feel like I am just starting.
shoot us an email at success@ryonet.com and we will help get you dialed in!
Use dual-cure emulsion. Much more forgiving.
Thanks x1000. This video is extremely helpful. I've been experiencing a lot of difficulty with my printing (blurry and too much ink) but feel that can now get some great prints with your tips!
I was struggling with that for a while!
How can l print a 50 metres roll cloth using the screen-printing method?
There are a lot of large format textile printers out there with more detailed advise but definitely set yourself up with a production station with rollers and large tables. We specialize in apparel printing so the format is a bit different!
nice video i like and like the tip for pushing and pulling
how about using rubberdye on 110mesh..?do i need flood?
When you push a squeege and load the ink into the back can you still flood it by pulling? also when you occasionally lift the screen up off the tee to flood it why do you do that and when is it necessary?
you can flood pushing or pulling, and I normally lift the screen when I flood because sometimes our manual might have less off contact from one screen to the other, and you don't lay down ink at the wrong moment, beginners should practice that. when I started my strokes were too long and slopped into the back of the frame creating a mess the more you print the better you get, as long as you are pay attention to what you are doing.