Jeep Cherokee XJ Engine Swap Part 5: Post Install Update

At 260k miles, the engine in my Cherokee was starting to show it's age. Numerous oil leaks (oil pan, valve cover, front and rear main seal) needed to be fixed, and the crank damper dis-bonded. I already had a replacement long block on hand and decided now is the time to swap them. I will no longer recommend discount auto parts house sensors. I will only recommend NGK / NTK, Standard Motor Products, or OEM sensors. I have had too many problems with cheap discount parts.
#superb60ce #jeep #jeepxj

[@electronicsworkbench]

Good videos, Sir! Glad you brought the issue of junkter-market parts up. NGK is parent to NTK and WVE. WVE is NGK's value line but still pretty good stuff. Standard is an OEM supplier but not AMC/Jeep/Chry. I have their CKP sensor installed with no drifting or glitches or dropouts in the square wave pattern groups on the oscilloscope. Bosch O2 sensors aren't made correctly for the Chrysler OBD-I system for sure. My '93 and '95 have no clue what the Bosch sensor is telling them and the engine just runs rich. Back to NTK 23023. Runs fine. The CMP sensor is, as you mentioned, strictly to tell the ECU where the beginning of the fuel injector timing starts in the rotation of the crankshaft. All ignition timing is done through the CKP sensor.
As you stated, 1996 was a weird year. The fuel pump also houses the fuel pressure regulator and thus the return pressure is dumped back into the tank from inside the tank thus no return line. I've upgraded my '93 using the '96 fuel system and have had no problems with Bosch "710" injectors. Flow is comparable to factory rating even though Bosch uses Heptane numbers. Gasoline flows better and will be higher than Heptane. 21lb/hr static @49psi. 24lb/hr static injectors are too much unless you put them in a stroker. OBD-I ECU's barely have a handle on the fuel trims and IF you can find someone who can flash the '94-95 ECU, you might be lucky enough to get the tables corrected. '93 and older have hard coded ROMs and cannot be flashed. Best to use the '96 ECU with new connectors on the old harness so you can keep the old style dash gauges and not trigger the MIL. That is unless you have a '96 engine harness available. '97 and later gauge clusters were driven by the JTECH bus.

[@madmacks]

Where’s part 4?

[@superb60ce]

th-cam.com/video/Ke5DfJuw9Os/w-d-xo.html