What gets me is when people tightly zip tie all the hots together and all the neutrals together in a panel. You could have 20 circuits and these wires are tightly zip tied together creating hot points in the panel. I don’t use zip ties at all and the panel still looks neat and orderly.
I’m just a homeowner that has done my own wiring but our city’s inspectors will fail panels that have zip tied hots and neutrals in a panel. It doesn’t allow heat dissipation and there’s no point to it aside from someone aesthetics. I used to zip tie wires together but I don’t anymore and honestly it makes working on the panel a lot easier when I need to add or remove a wire.
It took 17 years for the neutral wire nut on my dishwasher to work loose and start arcing. It sits directly beside my washing machine which needless to say vibrates a little. I replaced those wire nuts with Wago 221's and taped them closed.
I didn't know that there could only be 3 home runs in one box. I learned about home runs when I had an electrician here to help me. I also didn't know it was permissible to have more than one Romex cable in a box clamp that screw onto a box. Also I am finding a box that has 4 home runs in one box, so I will need to correct that. That was preexisting. It is a plastic box, but it is also uncovered. I have also taken off those silly wire nuts and replacing them with Wago lever nuts. I really love those. Now if they could just make them piercing so that stripping is not required, they would be perfect. And I am particular and only like the brand name Wago. Prior to that it was the PUSH kind which I liked the look but didn't seem to be reliable so they were short lived here. And I buy everything in bulk so I have a whole bunch that will likely never get used for anything. Maybe I'll close them up in a wall, resting on a fire-stop ledge.
Had a question in an attic over a portion of the house and garage for an older house (1970's). Various wires have been run across the bays for outdoor lights at corner of house, power to garage door opener, etc. There isn't much slack in the wiring, but enough so that the wires are sitting on top of the drywall in the attic in spots. The bottom support of the truss are sandwiched 2x4"s between beams, so not much depth to work with getting wires off drywall. The attic has blown in insulation so difficult to get a comprehensive look at it all. It appears that someone had placed 1/4" plywood in sections beneath the wires. My only guess is that they did this to protect the wires in case someone needed to cut through the drywall. That plywood cannot support any weight, so I'd like to remove it for that reason. And also, someone might think they could screw or nail into the plywood and end up hitting the wire. The roof had a leak, some drywall does need to be replaced. If the plywood is removed (to be able to use a drywall saw), any recommendations on how to protect wires crossing the bays without a rewiring job?
What are the rules for renos, where the wire is fished? I assume its left laying on drywall and loose in the wall cavities. And what about where the 15 wires drop out the one hole is there a heat issue there? Another 18 to pull to the panel also. Thanks for the videos. Very clear and easy to follow
As far as code goes last 24” you can bundle as many as you want without de-rating. Theory is heat will dissipate along cable length. I personally do not like the practice of mass bundling at panel but it is code compliant
Very good video! I always try to put the home runs in attics where least walked, and never run on top same direction as joist, I always think about the next guy working in that area!
Wired 30 homes in the last 3 years, and not once have we ever put a panel on an inside wall. 1 was in a basement Rec room, the other 29 were installed in the garage. Love the idea of installing a panel inside the house. Imo would make more sense, and maybe of more ease for the home owner to get to panel ?. Love the channel. Canadian Electrical apprentice here 👍👍 ⚡️ ⚡️⚡️⚡️
“The plumbers are going to need some play to run a toilet line” !? What !? I don’t know where your from, but where I’m from, in the residential building process, plumbers are the first trade allowed in the house after the framing. Why !? Plumbers are the most likely trade to want to alter framing / blocking in order to run their pipes. It’s way easier to bend wires than it is to bend pipes !
At 1:50 you say not to bundle more than 3 wires in a single hole, but at 5:50 when showing the panel, all the home runs go thru what looks to be 4 or 5 holes in the top plate?
Electrical cable and data cable rough-in in new construction should always follow the mechanical systems rough-in for Plumbing, HVAC and such. This way electrical work won't be damaged or cutout to make way for their work.
Usually the GC is responsible for scheduling, coordinator for sequence of the rough-in by the trades. But it's up to the sub to make the final decision if conditions don't permit it.
Personally it's best if electrician installs requires boxes first. Let others come in then return to run wiring. This will ensure no one else messes up the areas electrician must maintain. Also means he can connect a couple circuits for tohers to use.
Should have had you around when we had an electrician inform us about an outlet that surged. The outlet surged it actually had fire coming out the front cover. And the electrician said the unit was fine. We had to punch a hole in the wall to prove it to him the wire jacket had melted exposing the wires. We hired another electrician, who replaced the entire wire.
@@ElectricProAcademy sadly it happens. I'm just happy it's getting rare nowadays with better training. Thank you for your time and doing what you do and preparing the next generation. That's why you're the best on TH-cam ⭐⭐⭐⭐⭐ 🍾🥂
I commonly see manufactured rafters with holes that can be knocked out with hammers. In these you will see close to 10 cables. So what you are saying is they are considered bundled and should be greatly de rated. I wanted to post a picture but the comment section will not let me paste one in
@@ElectricProAcademy it seems like a topic that is ducked I do have familiarity with the section. I asked a few experts and the topic of what is spacing or bundled is debated
My area needs a few knowledgeable Electricians, like y'all. Seems 90% of those here are Cousin Bubba types, that work towards what they can get away with. The inspectors are pretty lazy as well, considering what I've found. Get this All garage lights, Garage door opener, home exterior lights, electric washer and 2 attic vent fans, 1 15 amp breaker. All garage outlets, all kitchen outlets/lights, Garbage disposal, dish washer, and an OTS microwave. 1 15 amp breaker. Refrigerator, dining room(outlets/lights) hallway lights/outlets and one bedroom outlet/lights. 1 15 amp breaker
Hi and thank you for the informative video. Could you please clarify what you mean about not grouping more than 3 home runs together when at 5:54 it looks like more than 15 cables bothe 12/2 and 14/2 are coming down from the same hole to the electrical panel. Thank you.
I am 100% not an electrician in any manner, do not take the following as guidance. There is an NEC chapter on cable bundling, that defines the number of cables that can be bundled in conduit when using THHN, but Romex (NM-B) is already considered "in conduit" and no longer meets its intended use when removed from its encasing, so it can't be bundled so far as I know. Using the same hole as you mentioned is enforced, I believe based on fill percentage, but it is not the same as bundling because as google put it "The NEC defines a bundle as a minimum length of 24 inches (600 mm)."
I have 5 runs to my kitchen. I ran 5 to the area to then disperse to their corresponding areas . They not correct? Does that mean I need to run 2 down a seperate area to meet up near the same area? Confused
Love your videos, but I am always amazed at the OSHA violations... Dude Zac, stretching over his head and 3 hosts over with a very long flat head screwdriver poking out of his back pocket... 😒😵💫 how do you say, Punctured kidney or lung in NEC code?
Incorrect! You can run four 2 conductor NM cables together in a conduit not just three. Using Table 310.16, 90° C column (for derating purposes only) and then applying derating Table 310.15 (C)(1), you can run up to nine conductors in a conduit. For example 12 gauge under the 90° C column is good for 30 amps, for up to nine conductors 80% of 30 will give you 21 amps. 10 conductors or five NM cables would cause you to reduce the current rating by 50% .
Wow, my man from 1:00 to 2:00 is having a tough time lol Also, you can’t drill that close to an edge of a TJI. Did anyone edit this or did we just upload whatever footage we had? “You need play in your wire” is a lazy persons excuse as to why their wiring is ugly. If one of my guys ran wire as shown at 4:20, it would be their last day Sloppy work in general throughout the video. Please spend less time making videos and more time getting good training for your guys.
I agree with you. This guy is a total a hack. your should see the one video with service equipment. I would also fire the guy who did it. just because you have a master's doesn't mean your a master electrician. it their so you can legally own a business and pull permits.
you contradict yourself by saying you should never have mor than 3 home run cables in the same home run ( in video at 1:54 ) but then at the panel you have the current 15 home runs going through the header to get to the panel. That is going to be your place of heat build up. ( in video at 5:55 )
What gets me is when people tightly zip tie all the hots together and all the neutrals together in a panel. You could have 20 circuits and these wires are tightly zip tied together creating hot points in the panel. I don’t use zip ties at all and the panel still looks neat and orderly.
I’m just a homeowner that has done my own wiring but our city’s inspectors will fail panels that have zip tied hots and neutrals in a panel. It doesn’t allow heat dissipation and there’s no point to it aside from someone aesthetics. I used to zip tie wires together but I don’t anymore and honestly it makes working on the panel a lot easier when I need to add or remove a wire.
Tim wilson Any thought on induction/reactance, or capacitative reactance in such a situation? Or am I overthinking again
This is really interesting, I’m just here to learn more, thanks for making these videos.
It took 17 years for the neutral wire nut on my dishwasher to work loose and start arcing. It sits directly beside my washing machine which needless to say vibrates a little. I replaced those wire nuts with Wago 221's and taped them closed.
The struggle is real. Nice work Dr.!
I didn't know that there could only be 3 home runs in one box. I learned about home runs when I had an electrician here to help me. I also didn't know it was permissible to have more than one Romex cable in a box clamp that screw onto a box. Also I am finding a box that has 4 home runs in one box, so I will need to correct that. That was preexisting. It is a plastic box, but it is also uncovered. I have also taken off those silly wire nuts and replacing them with Wago lever nuts. I really love those. Now if they could just make them piercing so that stripping is not required, they would be perfect. And I am particular and only like the brand name Wago. Prior to that it was the PUSH kind which I liked the look but didn't seem to be reliable so they were short lived here. And I buy everything in bulk so I have a whole bunch that will likely never get used for anything. Maybe I'll close them up in a wall, resting on a fire-stop ledge.
Future generations would love to find them there resting on the fire-stop ledge :-) !
Had a question in an attic over a portion of the house and garage for an older house (1970's). Various wires have been run across the bays for outdoor lights at corner of house, power to garage door opener, etc. There isn't much slack in the wiring, but enough so that the wires are sitting on top of the drywall in the attic in spots. The bottom support of the truss are sandwiched 2x4"s between beams, so not much depth to work with getting wires off drywall. The attic has blown in insulation so difficult to get a comprehensive look at it all. It appears that someone had placed 1/4" plywood in sections beneath the wires. My only guess is that they did this to protect the wires in case someone needed to cut through the drywall. That plywood cannot support any weight, so I'd like to remove it for that reason. And also, someone might think they could screw or nail into the plywood and end up hitting the wire. The roof had a leak, some drywall does need to be replaced. If the plywood is removed (to be able to use a drywall saw), any recommendations on how to protect wires crossing the bays without a rewiring job?
What are the rules for renos, where the wire is fished? I assume its left laying on drywall and loose in the wall cavities. And what about where the 15 wires drop out the one hole is there a heat issue there? Another 18 to pull to the panel also. Thanks for the videos. Very clear and easy to follow
@@ElectricProAcademy Thanks for the reply, really appreciate it
As far as code goes last 24” you can bundle as many as you want without de-rating. Theory is heat will dissipate along cable length. I personally do not like the practice of mass bundling at panel but it is code compliant
Very good video! I always try to put the home runs in attics where least walked, and never run on top same direction as joist, I always think about the next guy working in that area!
Zack, the labeler, is my hero.
Wired 30 homes in the last 3 years, and not once have we ever put a panel on an inside wall. 1 was in a basement Rec room, the other 29 were installed in the garage. Love the idea of installing a panel inside the house. Imo would make more sense, and maybe of more ease for the home owner to get to panel ?. Love the channel. Canadian Electrical apprentice here 👍👍 ⚡️ ⚡️⚡️⚡️
Great info!
Wiring routing should follow behind HVAC, hydronic lines and plumbing drains.
Hi I like watching your show every day. ? My main 200a Square D panel now full , can I install sub pan panel & how many Amps.thank
“The plumbers are going to need some play to run a toilet line” !? What !?
I don’t know where your from, but where I’m from, in the residential building process, plumbers are the first trade allowed in the house after the framing. Why !? Plumbers are the most likely trade to want to alter framing / blocking in order to run their pipes. It’s way easier to bend wires than it is to bend pipes !
Long story, short: complete your work with future considerations in mind.
At 1:50 you say not to bundle more than 3 wires in a single hole, but at 5:50 when showing the panel, all the home runs go thru what looks to be 4 or 5 holes in the top plate?
Also 6:55 his run from first floor to attic has more than 3 and looks like 8 gauge in with the bunch.
@@redneckcanuck8359 They are still pretty loose.
Work looks like ass. You can know all the rules and still do shit work
Excellent video! Thanks a lot for your work.
Electrical cable and data cable rough-in in new construction should always follow the mechanical systems rough-in for Plumbing, HVAC and such. This way electrical work won't be damaged or cutout to make way for their work.
all trades should communicate when it's specified on the architects notes. job site didn't now we're in trouble for it.
Plumbing then hvac then electrical…not at the same time
Usually the GC is responsible for scheduling, coordinator for sequence of the rough-in by the trades. But it's up to the sub to make the final decision if conditions don't permit it.
Never at the same time. Avoid other trades r.o.w. and work space .
Personally it's best if electrician installs requires boxes first. Let others come in then return to run wiring. This will ensure no one else messes up the areas electrician must maintain. Also means he can connect a couple circuits for tohers to use.
the first one , keep up the good work ,enjoying your videos .
Homerun vs Home Run HAHAHAHAHAHA i hated that word when first learning at school. Great Video 👍
Great information on your videos. Keep posting more great content.
Should have had you around when we had an electrician inform us about an outlet that surged. The outlet surged it actually had fire coming out the front cover. And the electrician said the unit was fine. We had to punch a hole in the wall to prove it to him the wire jacket had melted exposing the wires. We hired another electrician, who replaced the entire wire.
@@ElectricProAcademy sadly it happens. I'm just happy it's getting rare nowadays with better training. Thank you for your time and doing what you do and preparing the next generation. That's why you're the best on TH-cam ⭐⭐⭐⭐⭐ 🍾🥂
I commonly see manufactured rafters with holes that can be knocked out with hammers. In these you will see close to 10 cables. So what you are saying is they are considered bundled and should be greatly de rated. I wanted to post a picture but the comment section will not let me paste one in
@@ElectricProAcademy it seems like a topic that is ducked I do have familiarity with the section. I asked a few experts and the topic of what is spacing or bundled is debated
@@ElectricProAcademy if I could insert a picture it would be clearer but it appears it’s not allowed in comment section
I have never wired a house before the plumber or HVAC completed their work
My area needs a few knowledgeable Electricians, like y'all. Seems 90% of those here are Cousin Bubba types, that work towards what they can get away with. The inspectors are pretty lazy as well, considering what I've found. Get this All garage lights, Garage door opener, home exterior lights, electric washer and 2 attic vent fans, 1 15 amp breaker. All garage outlets, all kitchen outlets/lights, Garbage disposal, dish washer, and an OTS microwave. 1 15 amp breaker. Refrigerator, dining room(outlets/lights) hallway lights/outlets and one bedroom outlet/lights. 1 15 amp breaker
At least it's convenient when you need to reset the breaker.
I wanna know how you got all them cables neatly into the adjacent stud space!
Great information as always.
Very good! Keep going man you are almost at 1k with amazing information!!
Hi and thank you for the informative video. Could you please clarify what you mean about not grouping more than 3 home runs together when at 5:54 it looks like more than 15 cables bothe 12/2 and 14/2 are coming down from the same hole to the electrical panel. Thank you.
I am 100% not an electrician in any manner, do not take the following as guidance. There is an NEC chapter on cable bundling, that defines the number of cables that can be bundled in conduit when using THHN, but Romex (NM-B) is already considered "in conduit" and no longer meets its intended use when removed from its encasing, so it can't be bundled so far as I know. Using the same hole as you mentioned is enforced, I believe based on fill percentage, but it is not the same as bundling because as google put it "The NEC defines a bundle as a minimum length of 24 inches (600 mm)."
Great information, thank you!
I have 5 runs to my kitchen. I ran 5 to the area to then disperse to their corresponding areas . They not correct? Does that mean I need to run 2 down a seperate area to meet up near the same area? Confused
I need to replace my home runs. Have new panel. I don't know if strain releaf clamps were used. House wired without gnd wire.
LOL, and foam insulators just sprayed everything everywhere, then in the panel hots are bundled neutrals bundled and ?
Thank you so much
What about MC
Very good.
Love your videos, but I am always amazed at the OSHA violations...
Dude Zac, stretching over his head and 3 hosts over with a very long flat head screwdriver poking out of his back pocket...
😒😵💫 how do you say, Punctured kidney or lung in NEC code?
Incorrect! You can run four 2 conductor NM cables together in a conduit not just three. Using Table 310.16, 90° C column (for derating purposes only) and then applying derating Table 310.15 (C)(1), you can run up to nine conductors in a conduit. For example 12 gauge under the 90° C column is good for 30 amps, for up to nine conductors 80% of 30 will give you 21 amps. 10 conductors or five NM cables would cause you to reduce the current rating by 50% .
I believe he was speaking of maximum number of NM cables routed through a hole, or zip-tied together, not in conduit
Wow, my man from 1:00 to 2:00 is having a tough time lol
Also, you can’t drill that close to an edge of a TJI. Did anyone edit this or did we just upload whatever footage we had?
“You need play in your wire” is a lazy persons excuse as to why their wiring is ugly.
If one of my guys ran wire as shown at 4:20, it would be their last day
Sloppy work in general throughout the video. Please spend less time making videos and more time getting good training for your guys.
I agree with you. This guy is a total a hack. your should see the one video with service equipment. I would also fire the guy who did it. just because you have a master's doesn't mean your a master electrician. it their so you can legally own a business and pull permits.
Yeah. At 4:20 that is just bad work, not to mention stupid.
Thanks Zack your the best
you contradict yourself by saying you should never have mor than 3 home run cables in the same home run ( in video at 1:54 ) but then at the panel you have the current 15 home runs going through the header to get to the panel. That is going to be your place of heat build up. ( in video at 5:55 )
here
Kind of sloppy.
Yeah, some lazy installers staple wires directly on top of the rafters, right there when people tend to walk.
Some bad incorrect info here
Sloppy work